particle characterization for cosmetics and cosmeceuticals
DESCRIPTION
Ian Treviranus of HORIBA Scientific discusses the many, many applications of particle characterization within the cosmetics industry. Particle size analysis is the most extensively used technology and is covered in detail. Other parameters discussed include particle shape and zeta potential.TRANSCRIPT
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Particle Characterization for Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals
Ian [email protected]/us/particle
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
What we’ll talk about
Featured technologies
Importance to industry
Application examples
Q&A
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Your interests
Available technologiesHow to accurately, reproducibly measure
nanoparticlesBest practicesZeta potentialPastesData interpretation
(webinars TR008, TR010, TR015)
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Featured technologies
LA-950 / LA-300Laser Diffraction
SZ-100Dynamic Light Scattering & Zeta Potential
CAMSIZER & CAMSIZER XTDynamic Image Analysis
PSA300Static Image Analysis
SA-9600Flowing Gas BET Surface Area
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
LA-950: Laser Diffraction
Particle size performance leaderNinth generationUltra durableLowest total cost of ownershipSuspension, emulsion, powder,
paste, gel10 nanometer – 3 mm
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SZ-100: Nanoparticle Analyzer Size: .3 nm - 8 µm
90° and 173° Zeta potential: -200 - +200 mV
Patented carbon coated electrodes
Molecular weight: 1x103 - 2x107 g/mol
•Nanoparticles•Colloids•Proteins•Emulsions•Disperison stability
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
-60
-50
-40
-30
-20
-10
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 7.0 8.0 9.0 10.0
pH
Zeta potential/mV
Measures particle surface chargeHigh zeta potential = stableLow zeta = unstable, aggregate
Zeta Potential: Dispersion Stability, IEP
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
What we’ll talk about
Featured technologies
Importance to industry
Application examples
Q&A
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Why Do We Care?
Particle size affects…Texture/skin feelColor density/tintSmoothnessPowder flow/compaction
Zeta potential tells us…Product stability
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Particles in CosmeticsAny product containing a powderPigments, talc, micaEmulsions (creams, lotions)Liposomes; simple, complexTypes of cosmetics containing particles
(emulsion droplets)
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Original Foundation: Pan-Cake Foundation and powder
in one Base was talc (particle),
not oil or wax Applied with wet sponge Patent in 1937 By 1940 1 in 3 N
American women owned & wore Pan-Cake
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Create our Own ProductBaseTalc, rice powder
PigmentIron oxide
FillerClay
GlitterMica
SPFTiO2
They’re all particles!
Can measure size of all using one system:LA-950
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Measure Powders as Powders
Webinar TE016: Optimizing Dry Powder Measurements
Simplify dispersing
Quick, easy, clean
Measure in natural state for more actionable results
Lower costs
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Reduce Solvent Use
Fully automated pumping system40 mL total volumeBuilt-in ultrasonic probeApplication Note 176: Minimizing Sample Quantity
MiniFlow Fraction Cell
5, 10, 15 mL volumeNeeds only micrograms
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
LA-950 Method Expert Unique guided method developmentOptimize parameters Choose the best refractive index Create “one button” SOPs
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
What we’ll talk about
Featured technologies
Importance to industry
Application examples
Q&A
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Base: Rice Powder
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Iron Oxide – 170 Shade
LA-950 wet accessoriesDisperse powder into a liquidCan measure down to 30 nm
Use ultrasound?
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Gold Glitter Powder
Wet Dry
Measure wet + dry, choose preferredVerify correct P for dry powder feeder
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Mica
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Quality Control / Troubleshoot
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Kaolin Clay
Note: small % below 100 nm, making thisa “nanoparticle.Safety concerns?
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Sunscreen with TiO2
Powder dispersed inwater using surfactantand ultrasound.Note: 14.5% < 100nmSafety concerns?
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Measure without dilution Concern that dilution
in anything but perfect background will change PSD
Possible solution with Paste Cell accessory
Small amount of paste/gel/cream between two glass plates
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ZnO used in sunscreen
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Nanoparticle Safety: Cosmetics “Preliminary scientific
research has shown that many types of nanoparticles can be toxic to human tissue and cell cultures…”
Suggests banning all cosmetics with particles <100nm
Many sunscreens contain ZnO or TiO2 particles <100 nm
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Nanoparticle Safety NGO Friends of the Earth issue report
requesting ban on all skin care products w/particles <100nm
Claim: some nanoparticles are dangerous, so ban all
Industry claims some nanoparticles are safe, so don’t worry
FDA says we only believe data in peer reviewed journals, but form task force to investigate
In 2012 Cosmetics manufacturers must notify European Commission of any “nanoscalematerials” in products
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Stability
Want stable dispersionEither suspensions
or emulsionsSuspensions
sediment & flocculateEmulsions phase
separate, creaming or coalescence
good
bad
good
bad
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Skin CreamEmulsion w/SPF 15
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Liposome DeliveryActiveingredient
Liposome approachesskin barrier layer
Liposome fuses withskin barrier layer
Liposome dissolves &releases actives(retinol?)
Penetrates into skin
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Liposome Size & StabilityNanoparticle Size Zeta Potential
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Multiple Technologies
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Retinol Formulation - Delivery
“Retinol contained in the core spaceof the vesicle which has a meandiameter of 10~50nm”…
Useful for improving skin health
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
SummaryMany cosmetic products either powder
(particle) based, or contain powdersWide range of applications measured by
laser diffractionDLS for nanoparticle size and
zeta potentialQuantify sub-100 nm with either
technology
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
See you at NYSCC
Annual suppliers event May 13-14Edison, NJ HORIBA has an office there!Booth 520Say hi! to
Mitch & Dan
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Danke
Gracias
Большое спасибо
GrazieاُشْكرΣας ευχαριστούμε
감사합니다Obrigado
Tacka dig
谢谢ขอบคุณครบั
ありがとうございました
धन्यवादநன்ற
© 2014 HORIBA, Ltd. All rights reserved.
www.horiba.com/particle
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Ian TreviranusProduct Line Manager