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44 PASSPORT I SEPTEMBER 2015

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A Culinary and Creative Adventure Through

Emilia-Romagnaby Matthew Wexler

Neptune's Fountain In Bologna

SEPTEMBER 2015 I PASSPORT 45


Iam Italian by association, although the blood that runs through myveins is decidedly borscht by way of Russia. I grew up in a Mid-western suburb that was home to some of the four million Italianimmigrants who made their way to the US during the late 19th andearly 20th century. While most kids my age were cutting school to

smoke a joint under the bleachers, I was taking advantage of my newlyearned driver’s license to head to Alesci’s, a local Italian deli that’s famousfor their foot-long sandwich of thinly sliced pepperoni, authentic giar-diniera, and melted provolone. So it only made sense that my first visit toItaly would be one of culinary exploration, forgoing Milan’s high fashionand Rome’s architectural wonders for a prosciutto-packed road trip throughItaly’s food and agritourism epicenter: Emilia-Romagna. Nestled north of Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna is one of Italy’s 20 regions

and spans from the Adriatic Sea in the east toward its western borders ofPiedmont and Liguria. Like the rest of the country, Emilia-Romagna toutslocal products, many of which have Protected Designation of Origin (PDO)status that ensures they are “produced, processed, and prepared in a givengeographical area” using recognized “know-how,” according to the Euro-pean Commission. Labels aside, I quickly discover that local favorites suchas heaping platters of shaved prosciutto di Parma served with chunks ofParmigiano-Reggiano and free-flowing Lambrusco are the stuff that afoodie’s dreams are made of.

BOLOGNAI begin my road trip in Bologna, the region’s capital. The streets spill over

a culinary and creative adventure through emilia-romagna

with students from the University of Bologna (Europe’s oldest university),and if you can distract yourself from their youthful exuberance and dynam-ic gesticulations, the city teems with covered porticos and a collection ofmore than 20 towers that were built by the city’s most noble familiesbetween the 11th and 13th centuries. While it’s easy to look up to take inthe sights, look below and you’ll discover another unique feature: a 37-milenetwork of canals that weave throughout and underneath the city.I settle into the Hotel Commercianti, a four-star property that sits in the

glorious shadow of the Basilica d’San Petronio. Overseen by matriarchCristina Orsi, the family-run business is one of five Bologna Art Hotels thatoffer visitors a taste of history amid modern amenities. Dating back to the11th century, the building has served as Bologna’s city hall as well as aguild house, and still retains its medieval wooden structures and otherarchitectural features, along with free bike rentals to explore like a local. Avisit to the neighboring basilica is a must, where construction began in1390 but was never completed. Highlights include more than a dozenchapels that were privately funded over the centuries, including the work oflate Gothic painter Giovanni da Modena. Astronomers will marvel at GianDomenico Cassini’s Meridian, which casts its epic line of sunlight acrossthe length of the church. After touring Bologna’s markets and shops, I try my hand at some

authentic Italian cooking under the guidance of best friends BarbaraZaccagni and Valeria Hensemberger, who own and operate Il Salotto diPenelope, a charming cooking school that the pair founded four years agoin a former bakery. Tucked in a back alley with a backdrop fitting a Fellini

Bologna Vista From Asinelli Tower

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purist, relying on a handful of simple, rustic ingredients to delivercomfort food that has been passed down through generations. Though I’ve eaten more than my share of pasta, I decide to go on

a quest for the ultimate frozen Italian treat: gelato. Bologna has sev-eral artisanal gelaterias, including the famed Gelateria Gianni,which produces upwards of 40 handmade flavors each day includingclassics such as gianduia, pistachio, and stracciatella, as well asunique combinations such as Inferno (white chocolate, black cher-ries, and wafers), and Divina Commedia (pistachio, chocolate, andhazelnut with layers of white chocolate). For a gelato-fanatic experience, I head to Carpigiani Gelato Uni-

versity and Museum. Incorporated in 1946, Carpigiani has becomea leader in manufacturing machines to produce artisanal gelato, andhas sold more than 900,000 machines worldwide. Of course, whatgood is a gelato machine if you don’t know what to do with it? Entre-preneurs and gelato enthusiasts head to Anzola on the outskirts ofBologna to learn the craft of gelato making and become “maestrigelatieri.” For those seeking a more recreational experience, a gelatomaster class enables participants to become gelato artisans for a dayand ends with a much-earned tasting of all the flavors. The Gelato Museum opened in 2012 to trace gelato’s historical

significance and includes 20 original machines along with more than

After touring Bologna’s markets and shops, I try my hand at some authenticItalian cooking under the guidance of best friends Barbara Zaccagni and

Valeria Hensemberger, who own and operate Il salotto di Penelope.


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movie, the school offers classes that embrace traditional Bolognese dishessuch as fresh pastas like tagliatelle and tortelloni, as well as pillowy gnoc-chi. Barbara points out that these are family recipes, passed down throughthe generations and grounded in tradition. The group begins slicing and dicing as Barbara explains what

feels like the unwritten Bible of Bolognese cuisine. Tagliatelle (aflat, fresh pasta similar to fettuccini, except slightly wider) isserved with meat ragù; tortelloni (a stuffed pasta folded andpinched to resemble a bishop’s hat) requires a simple sauce of but-ter and sage; and gnocchi, which can easily go from bliss to agummy nugget, requires baking the potatoes on a bed of salt toextract moisture. When I make the meek suggestion that one couldadd some fresh mint to the tortelloni’s traditional ricotta and pars-ley filling, it is received with a wayward glance and a simple, “No.We don’t do that.” And with good reason. After several hours of preparation the

group settles down to indulge in the fruits of our labors. We uncorka bottle of Sangiovese from neighboring Tuscany while Barbara’sson, Mateo, who has just sauntered in from school, eagerly grabs ahunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano and grates a massive pile for us tosprinkle on our pastas. There are no garlic cloves or palate-neutraliz-ing red pepper flakes to muddy the flavor. The cuisine of Bologna is

Quadrilatero in Bologna



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After days of cured meats and never-ending bowls of pasta, I’m

craving the sea. The salty air in the tiny port town of Cesenatico

delivers an idyllic backdrop for just such a meal, and restaura-

teur Stefano Bartaloni is the man to deliver it. Celebrating its

30th anniversary, the award-winning La Buca is a tri-genera-

tional labor of love. The cuisine honors Bartaloni’s father, who

was a local fisherman, while his son, Andrea, designed the

space. Budget-friendly diners seeking a casual, yet impeccably

prepared fish fry should head next-door to Bartaloni’s Oseteria

del Gran Fritto, but if it’s a Michelin-star, bucket list meal you’re

seeking, settle into a multicourse experience at La Buca.

Chef Gregorio Grippo welcomes me into the kitchen for an

exclusive demonstration, where he and his team prepare olive

wood-smoked mackerel, almond-crusted John Dory, and

pasta fresca alla chitarca, a labor-intensive fresh pasta served

with locally caught raw red shrimp and shaved bottarga (dried

and cured fish roe)—and that’s before dinner!

The official tasting menu at $73 per person is worth a visit

to the otherwise sleepy fishing village. The seasonal and local-

ly inspired menu is constantly evolving, but expect to experi-

ence exquisitely executed preparations such as smoked mack-

erel with radicchio and Tropea onions; crispy red mullet with

homemade mayonnaise, and fennel salad; and risotto topped

with burned-scallop carpaccio, leeks, and Sichuan pepper.

—Matthew Wexler

A MARITIME MICHELIN MEALLa Buca

10,000 images and documents. “The Gelato Museum fulfills thedream of our founders, Bruto and Poerio Carpigiani, the two Bolog-nese brothers who made it their job to spread gelato technology, cul-ture, and business throughout the world,” says Andrea Cocchi, gen-eral manager of the Carpigiani Group.

LA SABBIONAMy culinary adventure continues as I leave Bologna and head southeasttoward the outskirts of Faenza, a region known for its agritourism,ceramics, and wine. Amid the rolling hills, I discover La Sabbiona, afamily-run farm, vineyard, and guesthouse that offers visitors anauthentic taste of life in the Italian countryside. Serena and SebastianoAltini welcome guests into their home with open arms. For those seek-ing overnight lodging, the six rooms and four apartments offer quaint

accommodations (be sure to request a vineyard-facing room), but visi-tors can also arrange an afternoon cooking class that offers a hands-onopportunity to experience regional dishes.

Piadina is one of the local specialties—it’s a simple flatbreadmade with all-purpose flour, lard, a pinch of salt, baking soda, andjust enough tepid water or milk to pull it together. Serena carefullywatches as we work our batches of dough, ensuring that we reach theproper thickness (1/2 centimeter). The discs are then cooked on a hotskillet, turned frequently, and pierced with a fork until lightlybrowned. Piadina is simple peasant bread, lacking the crumb andyeasty goodness of focaccia, but it’s the perfect vehicle for softcheese, slices of bacon, or braised cabbage. The group sits down for a feast of cured meats, homemade giar-

diniera, slow-roasted figs, and plenty of flowing wine. Locals says that

Koko Mosaico

La Sabbiona Meal

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those from Emilia will offer you a glass of water and those fromRomagna will offer you wine—the hosts at La Sabbiona are no excep-tion. The onsite winery produces a range of blends and single varietywines from the 15-hectare vineyard, including ancient varieties such asCentesimino, Albana, and Famoso, a not-so-famous grape that datesback to the early 15th century and is only now finding its way back intoproduction. Leave room in your suitcase for a bottle of Divo, an extra-dry sparkling wine made from Famoso that offers a golden-yellow huewith floral notes and a hint of apple. For dessert, Sebastiano presents nocino (a viscous liqueur made

from walnuts). The digestivo takes some getting used to, but plays wellwith sabadoni (a traditional Easter dessert only made in Romagna). Thebasic cookie dough is filled with chestnuts, jam, chocolate, saba (agrape reduction similar to balsamic vinegar), and sugar. Serena inherit-ed the recipe from her grandmother, and over time it has evolved froma peasant dish of leftover beans and chestnuts into a delightful sweetthat celebrates the resurrection of St. Lazarus each spring.

THE ART OF ROMAGNASatiated with piadina, sabadoni, and more than my fair share of locallyproduced wine, I depart the countryside and go farther east towardRavenna. Beyond its food culture, Romagna is known for superiorcraftsmanship in the areas of ceramics and mosaics. The area is rich inclay and raw materials, but it is the evolution of glazed ceramics for

which the region became famous. One of the foremost artists of the last century is Goffredo Gaeta,

whose studio and gallery, called “La Cartiera,” reside in a formerpaper mill power station in Faenza. Spending time in the AegeanIslands as a boy, the sea plays a prominent theme in much of theartist’s work, yet in his nearly 50-year career, Gaeta has developedadditional techniques that include bronze casting and large format,stained glass windows. His work can be found worldwide at suchesteemed cultural institutions as the Museum of Modern Art in NewYork City, the Ceramic Museum of Kyoto, and others. A workshopvisit reveals the vast range of the artist’s talents, and you can alsoobserve Gaeta’s artisans working on new projects. Mosaics also play a prominent role in the region’s artistic history, and a

visit to the Basilica di San Vitale in Ravenna reveals one of the world’smost glorious examples of this meticulous crafts. The church took 21 yearsto build before holding its first mass in 547. Over the centuries, differentartistic styles were incorporated, including frescos dating back to 1780.Austrian painter Gustav Klimt was so inspired by his 1903 visit that it pro-foundly affected his work thereafter. The church is the springboard for a city defined by its mosaic work,

with several universities and dozens of studios specializing in the craft.Koko Mosaico is one of the best, led by husband and wife team of LucaBarberini and Arianna Galic. Both graduated from the Gino SeveriniMosaic Institute of Art and opened their mosaic laboratory ten years

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Cinema at Night In Bologna



ago. The studio specializes in contemporary interpretation of craftusing Ancient Roman cutting techniques, tools, and materials. Thoseinterested in having a hand at mosaic making can participate in a half-day workshop using traditional tools and materials such as marble,glass, and gold tessere. Professional or aspiring artists looking to honetheir craft have the option of longer workshops ranging from 20 to 40hours that utilize precise techniques as well as mosaic sculpture. The duo continues to push the boundaries of mosaic art while

still staying true to the centuries-old art form. They recently col-laborated with contemporary artist Domingo Zapata for a seriesthat riffed on da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. “Working with Koko was anamazing experience,” Zapata told Mosaic Art Now. “Every mem-ber of the studio knows so much about contemporary art and isvery much in tune with what’s going on in the art world. By break-ing down the composition and reconstructing it in mosaic, we cre-ated not only an explosion of light and color but also a new way tounderstand my paintings.”

A SPEEDY FINALEI’ve got one more pit stop before bidding arrivederci to Italy, andthat’s the Museo Enzo Ferrari Modena. Enzo Ferrari founded thelegendary racecar company in 1929 and it wasn’t until 1947 that thebrand’s street worthy vehicles hit the market. Architect Jan Kaplickydesigned the 16,400-square-foot, pillar-free exhibition hall, whichpays tribute to the Ferrari’s passion and innovation. While the immaculately preserved cars would be enough to

engage any aficionado, even those without a penchant for Formu-la One engines will get a kick out of the sensory video installation,which turns the hall into a 360-degree screening room through theuse of 19 projectors. For a more high velocity thrill, the museumalso offers a semi-professional simulator where you can experi-ence being behind the wheel of a single-seater on the infamousMonza track. After indulging in my Ferrari fantasy, I traverse Modena’s wind-

ing roads and settle in for my final night at Opera 02, a winery andboutique resort nestled in the hills of Levizzano Rangone just out-side of the city. Enrico Montanari began the project in 2002 with thepurchase of five hectares of vines. A subsequent purchase of a1950s cow stable and additional land increased the footprint to apanoramic 45 acres. The stable was transformed into eight juniorsuites as well as a vinegar loft to house Montanari’s batteria, a seriesof barrels used to age the famous balsamic vinegar of Modena, alocal product with Denominazione di origine controllata (D.O.P)status that ensures high standards of production. This is not the stuffof salad dressing, but rather a viscous, sweet reduction with a vine-gar bite that is often used as an accent to cheese, drizzle over risot-to, or even as a topping to ice cream or gelato. Use sparingly as the25-year goes for approximately $100 per bottle. Later, as the sun sets over the hillside, I wander the grounds and

come face to face with a gaggle of ducks, grazing goats, and theneighbor’s dogs having a roll in the dusty road. They look like ahappy lot, untouched by the bustle of city life just a few miles away.I can’t blame them. I stroll along with a glass of the region’s signa-ture wine, Lambrusco, a frizzante red that tickles the nose with lightbubbles and typically finishes with a tart, juicy bite. My luggagewill have to withstand several more bottles, as I simply cannot leavewithout my own personal stash. I can’t pack the sunset or the gener-ous people I’ve met along the way, but I’m determined to bring ataste of Italy home.

Thanks to Italy’s high-speed rail line, in just over 30 minutes you can

leave behind the quaint city of Bologna and find yourself in Tuscany’s

bustling capital of Florence. Be prepared for an onslaught of tourists

traveling in packs that rival Pamplona’s running of the bulls. I head to

the hills for a spectacular respite at the five-star Il Salviatino. The

15th-century villa is just a 15-minute drive from the city center, with an

hourly shuttle service that will drop you off at Il Duomo, where you

can join the throng of tourists clamoring to view the cathedral and Fil-

ippo Brunelleschi’s famous Renaissance dome.

The city beckons, but also be sure to spend time wandering Il

Salviatino’s luxurious grounds. Over the years, the property had

fallen into disarray until hotelier Marcello Pigozzo rediscovered it

in 2007. A $16.8 million architectural renovation began to restore

Il Salviatino to its former glory, including the addition of La Spa,

which features scents from famed Florentine perfumer Dr. Vran-

jes. There are other treasures to discover among the grounds

such as elusive truffles. Guests seeking an immersive experience

can join Giulio Benuzzi and his dog, Eda, for an exclusive truffle

experience, which ends with a truffle-inspired meal.

Beyond its legendary monuments, palaces and piazzas, Florence is

also an epicenter for artisan goods. It’s easy to get distracted by the mul-

titude of street vendors selling leather outside of The Central Market,

but forgo the cheap goods and head straight to da Nerbone, a food stall

famous for its boiled beef sandwiches slathered with salsa piccante. For

handmade leather goods with a contemporary edge, turn to Morrocan-

born Hicham Ben'Mbarek. His tiny shop, BEN HEART, offers some of

the city’s most unique designs. Another great place to obtain a great gift

from Italy is Aquaflor, an intoxicating perfume parlor that features the

olfactory creations of Master Perfumer Sileno Cheloni. Choose from the

carefully crafted scents suitable for men or women, or opt for a custom-

designed scent. “Creating an original perfume”, says Cheloni, “is like

constructing the biography of an individual. We are taken back in time

and then we return with a new sense of pleasure on having been called

to remember with awareness.”

—Matthew Wexler

BORDER CROSSINGIl Salviatino Pool


(Dial +39 for the U.S. before the number listedbelow unless otherwise noted.)

Basilica di San Vitale, Via San Vitale. Tel: 544-541688. Ravenna church that features what manyconsider the first examples of Byzantine art inWestern civilization. Ticket includes admission tofive historic sights throughout Ravenna includingthe Archiepiscopal Museum, Mausoleum of GallaPlacidia, and more. www.ravennamosaici.it

Bologna, Online guide to Emilia-Romagna’s capi-tal. Must-see’s include the Basilica d’San Petronioand a tour of the city’s 24 towers built around the12th century. www.bolognawelcome.com

Carpigiani Gelato University and Museum, ViaEmilia 45. Tel: 051-6505306. Gelato museum andschool. A range of classes and workshops areoffered, from a guided tasting to a hands-on mas-ter class. www.gelatomuseum.com

Emilia-Romagna, An online resource to one ofItaly’s most food-centric regions. Discover the ori-gins of Parmigiano-Regiano, Aceto BalsamicoTradizionale, Lambrusco, and more. www.emil-iaromagnaturismo.com

Gelateria Gianni, Various locations. The artisangelato shops throughout Bologna produce nearly400 pounds of the frozen delicacy daily and relieson locally sourced ingredients including Langhehazelnuts, Amalfi lemons, and Amedei chocolate.www.gelateriagianni.com

Goffredo Gaeta, Via Firenze 455. Tel: 0546-43044. Artstudio and gallery of famed artist Goffredo Gaeta. Theformer paper mill power station is packed with originalworks of art and also houses artisans working onGaeta’s latest projects. www.goffredogaeta.com

Hotel Commercianti, Via De’ Pignattari, 11. Tel:051-7457511. Historical four-star property in thecity center that’s family owned that originallyserved as Bologna’s City Hall in the 11th century.It features original architectural details.

www.bolognarthotels.it/en/hotel-commercianti

Il salotto di Penelope, Via San Felice 116/G. Tel:051-6493627. Cooking school specializing in authen-tic Bolognese recipes, including Bolognese ragù,tagliatelle, tortelloni, and gnocchi. Market tours alsoavailable. www.ilsalottodipenelope.it

Koko Mosaico, Via di Roma 136. Tel: 0544-465190.Mosaic laboratory in the heart of Ravenna. Half- andfull-day classes offer participants the opportunity toproduce a copy of an ancient mosaic or create an orig-inal design. www.kokomosaico.com

La Buca, Corso Garibaldi 45. Tel: 0547-1860764.Stefano Bartolini’s Michelin-star restaurant in thecharming fishing village of Cesenatico featureslocally sourced seafood from the Adriatic Sea pre-

sented in a modern setting designed by his son.www.stefanobartolini.com/la-buca

La Sabbiona, Via di Oriolo, 10. Tel: 0546-64214. Guest-house, vineyard, and cooking school located in the rus-tic region of Faenza. The Altini family welcomes visitorsfor agritoursim experiences and plenty of wine pro-duced from their own vineyards. www.lasabbiona.it

Museo Enzo Ferrari Modena, Via Paolo Ferrari, 85.Tel: 059-4397979. A spacious exhibition hall pays trib-ute to some of the most exquisite cars ever producedand currently features a multimedia installation show-casing one of Italy’s most famous tenors, LucianoPavarotti. www.museomodena.ferrari.com

Opera 02, Via Medusia 32. Tel: 059-741019. Hill-side winery and resort overlooking the hills of Mod-ena. The eight-room boutique property boasts vine-yard views, pool, sauna, and a rustic country break-fast included in rate. www.opera02.it

FLORENCE RESOURCESAquaflor Firenze, Borgo Santa Croce, 6. Tel: 055-2343471. Ornate perfume parlor near the Basilicaof Santa Croce. Choose from carefully craftedscents or splurge for a custom-made creation (byappointment only). www.florenceparfum.com

BEN HEART, Via il Prato, 25R. Tel: 055-2608625. Hand-made leather goods from up-and-coming designerHicham Ben’Mbarek, who you’re likely to find in the tinyshop just steps from the Arno River. www.benheart.it

Central Market, Piazza del Mercato Centrale 4. Tel:055-2399798. Sprawling food market offering freshingredients and prepared foods. Be sure to add da Ner-bone’s boiled beef sandwich on the first floor to yourculinary bucket list and pick up souvenirs from Eatalyon the second level. www.mercatocentrale.it/en

Il Salviatino, Via del Salviatino, 21. Tel: 055-9041111. Five-star property overlooking Florence.The palatial villa began as a modest 14th-centuryfarmhouse and has been expanded over the years,culminating in its most recent $16 million restora-tion. www.salviatino.com

emilia-romagnaresources

Basilica San Vitale Mosaic

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