Patina Manual

Iron, Steel, and Aluminum

Patinas, Metal Coatings

Dyes and Leafing

Composed by: Seth, Scott, Josh, Taylan, PJ, Rick, Michael and Amanda

Edited by: Melissa Snowden

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Table of Contents

1. Timeline p. 3

2. Bismuth Nitrate (Seth) p. 4

3. Ferric Acid - (Scott) p. 6

4. Cupric Nitrate Patina (Josh) p. 8

5. Make Anything Look Like Copper (PJ) p. 10

6. Copper (Taylan) p.12

6. Bronze on Plaster (Rick) p.13

7. Leafing (Michael) p.14

8. Solvent Based Dyes (Amanda) p.15

9. Resources/Distributors p.17

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Timeline:

0:01:07 Safety

0:03:48 Hot Patina on Aluminum, Steel and Iron Introduction

0:04:45 Surface Preparation for hot patinas

0:07:50 Hot Patinas: Bismuth, Ferric, and Cupric Nitrate

0:08:15 Torch Bismuth

0:08:50 Ferric Over White

0:33:52 Make anything Look Like Brass, Bronze, or Copper Preparation: Primer Coating

0:38:22 Copper Coating and Patina on Plaster

0:38:50 Copper Coating

0:41:17 Brass Coating and Patina on Plaster

0:45:15 Bronze Coating and Patina on Plaster

0:48:06 Copper Coating and Patina on Ceramics

0:51:32 Darkening Copper and Patina after Dry

0:56:17 Copper Coating, Patinas on Aluminum, Steel and Iron (Copper Coating on Steel)

0:58:27 Copper Leafing

1:03:30 Copper Leafing on Iron

1:05:37 Dye on Steel, Iron, an Aluminum

1:08:58 Copper Leafing on Glass

1:09:50 Recap

1:20:33 the End

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Bismuth Nitrate What is Bismuth Nitrate? It is commonly used as an astringent and antiseptic. Bi(NO3)35H2O is a highly water soluble crystalline Bismuth source for uses compatible with nitrates and lower (acidic) pH. Nitrate compounds are generally soluble in water. Nitrate materials are also oxidizing agents. What we use it for Bismuth works as a great base patina and rust inhibitor on aluminum, steel, or iron. When mixed with water it will create a white base. You can experiment adding varying levels of oxides and carbonates over the white base for added visual depth. In the resources section I have included a link to a great site with 32 different patina recipes including several using bismuth nitrate. Process This process is to be used for indoor pieces only. The patina breaks down too rapidly to be used outdoors. Prepare the Surface All of the finishes for iron, steel, and aluminum begin with proper metal preparation.

The best way to clean the surface is by sandblasting using course sand. Sandblasting gives a nice tooth to the surface, which helps the finish and does a good job of cleaning the metal.

Patina rapidly after sandblasting. Prolonged contact with air will contaminate the surface of most metals. Ferrous metals (iron and steel) oxidize very quickly, while aluminum oxidizes a little more slowly. Rust (oxidation) starts forming on iron and steel in about 30 minutes, and 3 to 6 hours for aluminum. This oxidation or rust is the main reason these metals are so difficult to finish. You should be ready to apply the finish as soon as the surface is cleaned.

Apply the Patina As with the other hot patinas, the metal is first coated with alumina black. In good ventilation, and wearing a face-mask, heat the metal with a torch until the solution steams off instantly, and leaves the color solid and dry on the surface. The temperature of the metal should be about 200 degrees. You will be able to tell this temperature by sprinkling on a little water and hearing it sizzle.

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If the metal is overheated, the brush will stick and burn. If the color on the surface is accidentally burnt black with the torch, the patina may be simply reapplied to that area with good results. Apply wash of bismuth using a brush, air brush, or spray bottle. (If using a spray bottle, clean with fresh water after each use so the metal spring does not rust. Alternatively, you can buy a Spray Master sprayer that has a plastic spring, however it is three times as much money.) Seal Your Surface Due to the possibility of continued color change, once a desired patina is reached, many pieces will require Protection from further reaction. Sealing the surface from the environment may be accomplished with either a lacquer or wax finish. Lacquers provide good protection but may eventually chip, Use a high quality product to avoid later discoloring. Clear nail polish also works for small areas. It may need to be thinned to provide an even surface. Paraffin or bees wax are also used to protect the surface of metals. Museum Wax and Renaissance Wax are high quality commercial preparations. Wax may be applied directly to the surface, or it may be thinned. Mixing the warmed wax in a 4/1 ratio with turpentine will provide an easy-to-apply paste. Avoid commercially prepared paste waxes; they may contain chemicals that will further color the piece. A waxed finish may not hold up to wear and will certainly be attacked by soaps and detergents.

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Ferric Nitrate

Ferric Nitrate is iron and nitric acid mixed together. 1. Clean your metal. 2. Heat with a propane torch, not an oxi acetylene torch as it puts out too much heat. 3. Heat to a temperature of 220 degrees or until water steams evenly off the surface of the metal. 4. Using a fine misting spray bottle, coat piece with patina moving while spraying. 5. You can apply more or less until desired color is achieved. 6. After patina is applied you can wax your piece while hot. The wax brings out a more vibrant color and brightens it up with a sheen. Buff the wax with a cloth between coats to make sure the wax is completely covering. Wax is great for outdoor display. 7. Or you can let the metal cool and apply a lacquer. Below are a few mixture ratios able to be done without many other chemicals: Light to Dark Brown Ingredients Ferric Nitrate... 1/2 tsp Distilled Water... 1 pint Process Heat metal and apply liquid. (Red to reddish brown has also been reported using this recipe.) Blue Green Ingredients Sodium Thiosulfate... 1/4 oz Ferric Nitrate... 2 oz Distilled Water... 1 quart Process Hot process. Solution hot (180 to 190F), metal hot (200F), cold wash water applied after metal has cooled to around 100F. Wash solution over metal surface, let dry, then wash piece in cool water. Repeat until color develops. For Yellow Green, dip in dilute nitric acid, then wash and dry.

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Straw Yellow Ingredients Ferric Nitrate... 1/2 tsp Distilled Water... 1/2 pint Process Heat metal and apply hot liquid.

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Cupric Nitrate Patina

Cupric nitrate also known as Cooper Nitrate is a water-soluble chemical compound. In Its physical state it is a dark blue crystalline form and when dissolved into a solution it works as a severe oxidizer. When used as a patina on metal it renders colors from bluish greens to yellowish browns. These patinas hold up well indoors but are not recommended for exterior use because of their rapid deterioration due to the elements. Even indoors the patinas should be sealed with shellac (Permalac) or wax to maintain their color. Aluminum

Clean the metal of all dirt and oil which would prevent the patinas from adhering. Apply a basecoat of Alumina Black by either submerging into a bath or wiping

on. Pat the piece dry. Heat the metal using a torch. Apply the Cupric Nitrate onto the hot surface with a brush or by spraying on

while continuing to heat the surface. Cupric Nitrate will produce a soft green color.

Steel/Iron

Clean the metal of all dirt, oil and rust which would prevent the patinas from adhering.

Apply coat of Prestone Black by submerging in a bath. This seals the metal and prevents rusting.

Pat or towel dry. Heat the metal using a torch. Apply a coat of Bismuth White while continuing to heat the surface. This will

provide a good base and give the patina a surface to grip to as well as act as a rust inhibitor.

Apply the Cupric Nitrate onto the hot surface with a brush or by spraying on while continuing to heat the surface.

Because of the hot undercoat, the Cupric Nitrate will produce a more vivid and intense color (rust greens and browns).

Compared to Aluminum or steel, Iron tends to hold patinas much better and longer.

Experiment with different application techniques to achieve desired effects. Introducing other elements such as oxides and carbonates helps to stabilize the patinas as well as alters the color tones. In addition, the use of pigments suspended in nitrates can be utilized. Color Tone Tips

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To achieve a: Greener tone use cooper carbonate or acetic acid (vinegar). Bluer tone dip in a weak lye solution. Turquoise tone expose to diluted ammonia solution.

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Make Anything Look Like Copper The Copper Patina will go on all types of materials from Stone, Plaster, Clay, Iron, Steel, and Aluminum -Opens a wide range of possibilities

I. Iron, Steel, Aluminum *Important: Apply 2 layers of protective coating. Best results shown when using a two-part epoxy (pro-line # 4818). Must apply two layers to the surface of material. Application usually applies heavy, however it is possible to thin out the application by utilizing a spray gun during the process. Mix both parts A and B thoroughly, and the combined parts again before applying to the surface. Epoxy cures in a total time of 24 hours per coat, and best results are created when applying two coats. (Important to allow each coat to cure for 24 hours each). Other forms of protective coating that may be used are acrylics and water base urethane. During this step it is important to cover the complete surface and every area must be covered. If not the patina will cause the piece to rust. Patina Application *Important to utilize some kind of primer first on the piece. Apply either by brush, roller, or spray gun. Best results are shown when application is done by brush, and variation in color is shown when done by sponge. If you do not like the initial patina you can apply more onto the piece later. It is possible to rework the patina three to four times until you have found the desired results Afterwards some kind of sealer must be used depending on the final location of the object.

II. Plaster / Ceramics Genuinely want to apply two coats of copper patina to the surface. However, more coats of the copper patina will result in a richer finish. The drying time for each coat of the patina is six hours. Allow the full six hours of drying time between each coat before applying a new one. For a more natural effect brush or sponge the copper onto the surface. * To achieve a more desired effect when working with the patinas it is also possible to combine other chemicals to get a darker richer finish. Some of these chemicals that work well with the copper patina finish are Cupric chloride, Sulphurated potash, Cupric nitrate, Bismuth, and Ferric nitrate. When applying these chemicals on top of the patina the surface color will turn pink indicating that the chemicals are adhering to the piece with the patina. Allow the chemicals to dry and rework to the surface till the desired surface has been achieved. Patina Formulas Used

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Apple Green (Cold application) 3 oz. (85 grams) Cupric chloride oz. (15 grams) Ammonium chloride 1 pint (approx. liter) Water Add the chemicals to the water and stir with a nonreactive implement. Brush or sponge the patina all over the metal's surface, leaving it puddled all over the piece. Allow drying several hours or overnight. Reapply gently, so as not to disturb the first layer, which will be powdery. Reapply at least one more time. Rinse surface gently. Liver-of-sulphur Black (Torch technique) Approximately 50 grams of Sulphurated potash (Liver of sulphur) 1 liter water The amount of potash can be varied in a very wide range to produce different densities of black. Grind the potash in a mortar, add it to the water, and stir with a nonreactive rod until the chemical is totally dissolved. This patina is much used on bronze sculpture, but we currently use this patina only over a layer of blue-green. In good ventilation, and wearing a facemask, heat the metal with a torch until the solutionbrushed on with a soft brushsteams off instantly. Take care not to burn the surface of the blue-green while applying the second layer. Blue-green (Torch technique) 200 grams Cupric nitrate 1 liter water Grind the cupric nitrate in a mortar, add it to the water, and stir with a nonreactive rod until the chemical is totally dissolved. In good ventilation, and wearing a facemask, heat the metal with a torch until the solutionbrushed on with a soft brushsteams off instantly, and leaves the color solid and dry on the surface. If the metal is overheated, the brush will stick and burn. If the color on the surface is accidentally burnt black with the torch, the patina may be simply reapplied to that area with good results.

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Brown (Torch technique) . 30 grams Ferric nitrate 1 liter water Add the ferric nitrate to the water and stir with a nonreactive rod until the chemical is totally dissolved. In good ventilation, and wearing a facemask, heat the metal with a torch until the solutionbrushed on with a soft brushsteams off instantly. The patina is very transparent, and must be built up slowly.

Copper

Copper on Plaster:

You need 2 coats of copper before patina at least Each coat makes it "richer" Nothing transparent all opaque Plaster sucks in material rapidly You can extend drying time to have more working time by spraying isopropyl

alcohol on the patina. Copper on Ceramics:

Easily applied with a sea sponge Patina will only take in area with copper, old areas will stay When it turns pink that means its activated so you dont need to spray more Ammonium sulfide darkens everything. "Real nice accent"

Darker Copper (new) on Ceramic:

Paint it on glass / electro plate Bismuth patina can be painted on You can fast dry with a hairdryer Cupric sulfur is transparent on copper Copper chloride/ ammonium chloride comes out green

Primer is absolutely the most important thing, on iron/steel, etc. If not enough primer is used then the metal will eventually rust.

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Bronze on Plaster

Bronze on Plaster is essentially an epoxy paint-on coating applied to a plaster object. Bronze particles are actually suspended in the epoxy. (Copper and Brass epoxy coatings work the same way. The 2-part epoxy coating is mixed well, then painted-on the plaster object. The epoxy coating will cure in 6 hours. A second coat can be applied after a 24 hour drying time. Patina application to the bronze coated plaster. A patina is a finish is usually produced by oxidation or tarnishing of the metal. For bronze, copper or brass epoxy coatings, you may wish to use 2 different patinas. (Liver dark brown, or Tiffany - green) The patina is best applied to the second coat soon after it is applied. These can be applied using a Crown sprayer (an aerosol can attached to a plastic spray reservoir), or an HVLP sprayer. After spraying it on, you can use a brush or natural sponge to stipple the finish, or to remove excess patina. It will take 15 minutes to activate and begin the color change. You may also use a plastic wrap on the object to limit oxidation or to create air pockets for a varied surface.

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Leafing

You can leaf almost anything! First you most decide which materials you will need. Leafing comes in copper, gold, silver, Imitation gold (brass) and Imitation silver (aluminum). Choosing the right glue is also important. Water based sizing or glue works well for indoor pieces only. For pieces that will encounter the elements an oil-based sizing is recommended. You will also need a few other tools. A bristle brush for applying the glue and another brush for tamping the leafing down. A cotton ball is also useful for tamping and smoothing out the leafing. Steps to leafing:

1. apply the sizing everywhere you want leaf. Use the sizing carefully, as excess sizing will take away detail and create a mess

2. Apply sheets of leafing and begin stippling the leafing onto the piece and into contact with sizing by using your clean bristle brush.

3. Two layers are recommended if you wish to use a patina. Special Considerations:

If leafing on smooth substrates it is advisable to create tooth, by sanding or sandblasting

Hot patinas will not work on leafing.

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Solvent Based Dyes The solvent dyes, that Ron Young offers, are extremely versatile finishing tools. They are made for conservation/ replication and can be used as an accent over an existing patina. For example, orange and yellow will duplicate the look of ferric nitrate, or add a little white to hint at the illusion of titanium oxide in the ferric nitrate appearance. Ron Youngs dyes work on any media. They are commonly used to apply color to a difficult material (glass, resin, etc.), change the existing color of a finish, or repair a damaged finish without having to go back into with an acid. The solvent dyes can be sprayed, poured, or sponged on, in addition to having the ability of mixing with: lacquers, waxes, epoxies, oils, resins, or any other solvent based product. All of the colors are transparent except white.

The colors available are as follows: Red (these two tend to fade Blue over time outdoors) Blue green Green Violet Black Brown Orange (these three work well outdoors) Yellow White (opaque)

They may be blended to create different shades and diluted using the Dye Thinner. The Solvent Dye Thinner should always be used to dilute solvent dyes, because they are very concentrated. When the thinner is added, the dyes will become more transparent. DO NOT substitute Rons dye thinner for another brand. His thinner has UV inhibitors, corrosive inhibitors for all metals, and binders that help maintain the integrity of his dyes. If the Solvent Dyes sound interesting to you, then you might want to try The Solvent Dye Kit (can be found at sculptnouveau.com)

Includes the following: 1 oz. of Solvent Dye in every color (10).

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8 oz. of Solvent Dye Thinner. 8 oz. of IMS Metal Cleaner. 12 oz. spray can of Permalac Lacquer. 12 oz. spray can of Deft. 4 oz. container of Permalac Lacquer. 2 oz. of clear Wax for ferrous metals. 2 oz. of clear Wax for nonferrous metals.

Nine of the dye colors are transparent with the white being the opaque exception. The dyes blend together easily to create any color. The dyes may be applied to any surface, including ferrous metals and glass. They may also be used to tint resins, epoxies, clear coatings, and waxes.

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Resources

Bismuth Nitrate is currently $24.95 for a 100 gram bottle. http://secure.sciencecompany.com/Bismuth-Nitrate-100g-P6380C672.aspx Patina Recipes: http://secure.sciencecompany.com/Do-It-Yourself-Patina-Formulas-W12C672.aspx# Recipe 19 is called Antique White and calls for 2 tsp. bismuth nitrate and 8 oz. of water. Material Safety Data Sheet: http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/b3396.htm Spray Master Bottle http://www.spraymastertech.com/

Ferric Nitrate and wax: www.sculptnouveau.com. Mixture ratios for Ferric Nitrate: www.sciencecompany.com. Torch Technique: http://www.davidmbowman.com/dmb/wallpieces/construction/wpsurface.htm#torch

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Chemicals

Atlas Chemical 2929 Commercial St., San Diego, CA 92113

1-619-232-7391 www.atlaschemical.com

Sculpture Depot

418 8th St. SE Unit B5, Loveland, CO 80537 1-800-260-4690

www.sculpturedepot.net

Compleat Sculptor 90 Van Dam St., New York, NY 10013

1-800-972-8578 www.sculpt.com

Copper Harbor

2300 Davis St., San Leandro, CA 94577 1-510-639-4670

www.copperharbor.com

Ceramic Shell Casting Material

Townsend Atelier 100 Cherokee Blvd., Chattanooga, TN 37405

423-903-1488 www.townsendatelier.com

Bity Mold Material

521 Sterling Dr., Richardson, TX 750811-888-676-2489 www.brickintheyard.com

Remet

210 Commons Rd., Utica, NY 13502 1-800-445-2424 www.remet.com

Ransom & Randolph

3535 Briarfield Blvd., Maumee, OH 43537 1-800-800-7496

www.ransom-randolph.com

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Westech Products

1242 Enterprise Court, Corona, CA 92882 1-951-279-4496

http://www.westechproducts.com

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Clear Coatings Sealers

Sculpt Nouveau PO Box 460459, Escondido, CA 920461-800-728-5787www.sculptnouveau.com

Peacock Laboratories

1901 S. 54th St., Philadelphia, PA 19143 1-215-729-4400

www.permalac.com

Pro Line 2646 Main St., San Diego, CA 92113

1-619-231-2313

XIM Products, Inc. 1169 Bassett Rd., Westlake, OH 44145

1-440-871-4737 www.ximbonder.com

Leaf

Sepp Leaf Products 381 Park Ave South, New York, NY 10016

1-800-971-7377 www.seppleaf.com

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Magazines

Anvil's Ring www.abana.org

Fabricator

www.nomma.org

Metalsmith www.snagmetalsmith.org

Sculpture

www.sculpture.org

Sculpture Review www.sculpturereview.com

Metal / Metal Cleaner

Industrial Metal Supply 8300 San Fernando Rd., Sun Valley, CA 91352

1-818-729-3333 www.imsmetals.com

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Mold Material

Townsend Atelier 100 Cherokee Blvd., Chattanooga, TN 37405

423-903-1488 www.townsendatelier.com

Bity Mold Material

521 Sterling Dr., Richardson, TX 75081 1-888-676-2489

www.brickintheyard.com

Sculpture Depot 418 8th St. SE Unit B5, Loveland, CO 80537

1-800-260-4690 www.sculpturedepot.net

Compleat Sculptor

90 Van Dam St., New York, NY 10013 1-800-972-8578 www.sculpt.com

Ball Consulting

Suite 201, 338 14th St., Ambridge, PA 15003 1-800-225-2673

www.ball-consulting-ltd.com

Organizations

International Sculpture Center 19 Fairgrounds Road, Suite B, Hamilton, NJ 08619

1-609-689-1051 www.sculpture.org

National Sculpture Society

237 Park Ave., New York, NY 10017 www.nationalsculpture.org

Art Metal

www.artmetal.com

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Pedestals

The Compleat Sculptor 90 Van Dam St, New York, NY 10013

1-800-972-8578 www.sculpt.com

Photographic Services

Stan Edmondson Photography Los Angeles, CA 1-626-795-3872

stan@stanedmondson.com

Pigments and Oxides

Douglas & Sturgess 730 Bryant St., San Francisco, CA 94107 1-888-278-7883www.artstuf.com

Primers

Diamond Vogel 1110 Albany Place SE, Orange City, IA 51041

1-800-728-6435 www.diamondvogel.com

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Protective Coating for Ferrous Metals

Locktite Corp. 1001 Trout Brook Crossing, Rocky Hill, CT 06067

1-800-562-8483 www.henkelna.com

Putty for Bronze

Devcon 30 Endicott St., Danvers, MA 01923

1-800-626-7226 www.devcon.com

Sprayer

Vista Paint Store 611 Sycamore, Vista, CA 1-760-598-0040

www.vistapaint.com

Sprayer for Metal Coatings

ES Manufacturing, Inc. 2500 26th Ave. N, St. Petersburg, FL 33713

1-727-323-4040 www.esmfg.com

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Supplies / Tools

Sculpture Depot 418 8th St. SE Unit B5, Loveland, CO 80537

1-800-260-4690 www.sculpturedepot.net

Compleat Sculptor

90 Van Dam St., New York, NY 10013 1-800-972-8578 www.sculpt.com

Torches

Uniweld Products 2850 Ravenswood Rd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312

1-800-323-2111 www.uniweld.com

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Wax

Sculpt Nouveau PO Box 460459, Escondido, CA 92046

1-800-728-5787 www.sculptnouveau.com

Ball Consulting

Suite 201, 338 14th St., Ambridge, PA 15003 1-800-225-2673

www.ball-consulting-ltd.com

The Compleat Sculptor 90 Van Dam St, New York, NY 10013

1-800-972-8578 www.sculpt.com

Remet

210 Commons Rd., Utica, NY 13502 1-800-445-2424 www.remet.com

Westech Products

1242 Enterprise Court, Corona, CA 92882 1-951-279-4496

http://www.westechproducts.com

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Distributors

Sculpt Nouveau products are also available at these locations:

Industrial Metal Supply www.imsmetals.com

San Diego, California (800) 636-3536 Irvine, California (800) 350-6768

Sun Valley, California (800) 371-4404 Phoenix, Arizona (Capital Metals) (800) 654-9076

Riverside, California (800) 300-9900

Sculpture Depot www.sculpturedepot.net

(800) 260-4690 418 8th Street S.E. Unit B-7 Loveland, Colorado 80537

Townsend Atelier

www.townsendatelier.com (423) 903-1488 PO Box 4742

Chattanooga, TN 37405

Ball Consulting www.ball-consulting-ltd.com

(888) 967-7727 4665 South Ash Ave - Suite G-15

Tempe, Arizona 85282

Bity Mold Supply www.brickintheyard.com

(888) 676-2489 523 Sterling Dr

Richardson, Texas 75081

Medwedeff Forge www.johnmedwedeff.com

(618) 687-4304 695 Future Lane

Murphysboro, Illinois 62966

Copper Harbor www.copperharbor.com

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(510) 639-4670 2300 Davis St

San Leandro, California 94577

The Compleat Sculptor www.sculpt.com (800) 9-SCULPT 90 Van Dam St.

New York, NY 10013

Barnes Products www.barnes.com.au

+(612) 9793 7555 6 Homedale Road

Bankstown, NSW 2200 Australia

Sculpture Supply Canada

www.sculpturesupply.com (866) 285-5509 345 Munster Ave

Toronto, Ontario M8Z 3C6 Canada

Sculpt Nouveau

www.sculptnouveau.com (800) 728-5787