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Autumn2014

Living on and aroundThe Portman Estate

Paws for thought: a walking tour of art works

11As told toCharlotte Adsett, a celebritystylist who runs a hotel’s newshopping concierge team

12HappeningsBuns, bake offs and themost expensive cuppa inthe UK

20ArtTour on foot A walking guideto galleries and sculptures

26Food & drinkChiltern Firehouse Wherethe real VIPs are the localresidents

32ArtNew light The WallaceCollection’s famous GreatGallery gets a makeover

38Food & drinkHappy at Hardy’s Thefamily-run brasserie still going strong after 30 years

44HistoryFascinating facts FromJohn and Yoko to air raidshelters: Montagu Square’scompelling past uncovered

48Baker StreetSummer in the SquareJuly’s series of outdoorevents attracted more than13,000 visitors

Editors Lorna Davies Kate White

WritersCally SquiresDebbie Ward

Sub-editor Gavin Hadland

Designer Andy Lowe

PublisherThe Portman Estate

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The Portman is a regular journal aboutlife on and around The Portman Estate

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9contents

11as told to

An exciting new look

Our TypiCAl lOCAl ClienT will bebored with their wardrobe and want arefresh. Visitors from overseas,meanwhile, will have no idea about the

best shops or the coolest places. We may also getbusiness people, brides-to-be or friends of any age.i can also source gifts like jewellery or kids’ stuff.

The difference between shopping on your ownand using my service is my little black book. it’s fullof people i know in the fashion industry who maynot even sell to the public. it’s an extension of whati do for photo shoots or when i put together acelebrity’s wardrobe for a TV show.

in the first instance we’ll contact clients with ourquestionnaire about their style and what they wantto achieve and go from there.

We’ll usually start at The Mandeville Hotel andhave a chat. it’s an ideal location – near all myfavourite local shops and Bond Street. it has a greatvibe and is super-welcoming – and there’s anexclusive lunch menu for shopping conciergecustomers.

i dressed rachel Stevens at the hotel for anevent a couple of months ago. For red carpet doswe’ve access to a ‘glam squad’ of celebrity hairand makeup artists for clients. For time-poor

shoppers, a lot of boutiques will bring products totheir rooms.

We’ve negotiated some discounts, like Matchesoffering 10 per cent off. They also have a Vipservice at a townhouse on Welbeck Street, wherethey’ll bring whatever we need from their stores.

i don’t impose my own style on people. it’sabout what suits them and how the clothes aregoing to fit into their lives. Someone with no ideawould be my favourite, a blank canvas. i love givingsomeone a look and their being confident that theycan do fashion for the first time.

My favourite style icons include AudreyHepburn, Sophia loren, Jane Birkin and laurenBacall. i think the most stylish women today areOlivia palermo, Kate Moss and Alexa Chung.

My dream celebrity styling project would be the Duchess of Cambridge. While she always looks perfectly groomed and appropriate,i’d steer her away from her classic stylesand mix it up with some different shapes, bold accessories and shoes by new designers. 

The Mandeville hotel is at Mandeville place. info: 020 7009 2200, www.mandeville.co.uk

The celebrity stylist Charlotte Adsett is in charge of a specialistshopping concierge team recently launched at The Mandeville hotel. She talks to Debbie Ward

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12happenings

Buns in the oven

New school opensFull steam ahead

Carousel’s autumn dining round-upBlAndfOrd street’s new dining venueCarousel, which hosts a rotating series of guestchefs and pop-up events, has revealed itsautumn schedule.

Georgio locatelli and his wife Plaxy, who ownMichelin-starred restaurant locanda locatelli onseymour street, are hosting 21 days of Pizzalocadeli until september 28. diners can enjoywood-fired pizza with Italian spritz, wines andcraft beer.

small dishes include Parma ham and figs,autumn salad and an array of stuzzichini. As wellas pizza, there are pasta dishes includingspaghettini with clams, garlic and chilli; and

chestnut tagliatelle with wild mushrooms, butterand chives.

following locatelli will be the Paris Pop-up,which promises a variety of innovative dishes anddiverse drink pairings. It is run by Harry Cumminsand laura Vidal.

Harry has cooked at Jamie Oliver’s fifteenrestaurant, as well as Michelin-starred wildHoney, Artbutus and Zafferano; while laura is aQuébécoise sommelier. they will be based atCarousel from October 22 to november 1.

Carousel is at 71 Blandford street. Info: 020 7487 5564, www.carousel-london.com

A new JunIOr sCHOOl has opened onwyndham Place.

the International Community school (ICs)admits boys and girls aged three to 18. AnInternational Baccalaureate world school, it ispart of the skOlA group and offers all three IBprogrammes – primary years, middle years anddiploma.

ICs has two other sites in london – a primaryschool for children aged between three and 11near regent’s Park; and a secondary school for11 to 18-year-olds in Bayswater. the wyndhamPlace school will admit pupils aged from eight to 11.

Ben toettcher, managing partner of theskOlA group of schools, said: “we have seenthe development of Marylebone over many years,as we have had schools in the area for more than40 years.

“we’re opening at wyndham Place toincrease our capacity, as demand has risen forInternational Baccalaureate education in london.this will be our junior school and it’s located

between our infant and secondary schoolcampuses.”

ICs is at 7 wyndham Place. Info: 020 7935 1206,www.icschool.co.uk

nOrdIC BAkery is holding a week-longcelebration of the cinnamon bun.

the scandinavian coffee shop, which is basedon dorset street, will be selling a limited-editioncinnamon bun from september 30 until CinnamonBun day on October 4.

every week nordic Bakery sells hundreds ofthese buns, which are made fresh on thepremises every day.

the limited-edition buns will be made usingthe cafe’s traditional bun-dough and cinnamonrecipe, but they will feature a new twist.

Cinnamon buns, which are the bakery’sbiggest seller, originate from a rustic, home-stylefinnish recipe.

with a taste described as “eating a hug”, theyare baked on their sides so the sweet cinnamonfilling stays enclosed inside.

A golden, sticky glaze gives the buns a slightlycrunchy bite, revealing layer upon layer of robustlyspiced cinnamon with a hint of cardamom in alight dough. If the buns were unravelled, thedough would stretch a metre in length.

nordic Bakery is at 48 dorset street. Info: 020 7487 5877, www.nordicbakery.com

A new restAurAnt serving steamed food has opened onBaker street.

that’s Vapore is a Milanese brand that promises quick,simple, healthy and delicious dishes. they are cooked bysteaming, which retains up to 50 per cent more nutrients thanboiling or frying.

Open for breakfast and lunch, that’s Vapore will offer a dailyselection of more than 16 steam baskets, including pasta,seafood, meat and vegetarian options.

Customers can pick up a hot basket from the grab-and-gocounter. there is also a choice of cold baskets, salads and asoup of the day.

Breakfast dishes include pastries from the Artisan Bakery,and coffee made from organic, wood-roasted coffee beans.

that’s Vapore is at 7 Baker street. Info: 020 7935 0697,www.thatsvapore.co.uk

14happenings

Building client dreams

New fish fare

sHe wAs reCently named one of Britain’s top-30 interior designers by The Sunday Times – andnow eliská sapera is offering a new architecturalservice to her clients.

the interior designer owns eliská designAssociates – a high-end furnishings boutique onnew Quebec street. she has joined forces withprofessional architect Hannah darby to provide ahigh-quality, turnkey service to clients.

Hannah has worked on house, garden and loftextensions, multi-level basement installations andinternal reconfigurations. she has collaboratedwith eliská in the past on several high-profilecocktail bars, hotels and embassies.

their overlapping skill-sets allow the pair todeliver an entire project, from initial designconcept, through tendering and constructionstages and onwards to the final selection offurnishings and hand-crafted fittings.

eliská said the duo would work together tomaximise the potential of every space to enhancea client’s lifestyle. In other words, she said, thecollaboration will be a “one-stop shop to deliverclients’ dreams”.

eliská is at 16A new Quebec street. Info: 020 7723 5521, www.eliskadesign.com

A fIsHMOnGer is set to open in Portman Villagein October.

nic rascle, who owns la Petite Poissonneriein Primrose Hill, is opening a second branch of theshop on new Quebec street.

like its sister venue, it will stock sustainablysourced fresh fish and shellfish, which is sourcedfrom uk destinations including Portsmouth,Plymouth, norfolk, Cornwall and Grimsby.

the Marylebone shop will offer customers lotsof extras, including dinners they can take homeand cook. dishes will range from seared loin oftuna to marinated black cod with rice.

“we make all the marinade and the dressingfor you – all you have to do is cook it,” said nic,who is originally from france. “we see ourselvesas a ‘fishmonger-plus’, offering customers lots ofdifferent things.”

A lunch menu aimed at office workers willinclude sandwiches, sushi, bento boxes andsalads of the day; and the shop will sell a range offrench wines and champagne. nic can also caterfor dinner parties.

la Petite Poissonnerie will be based at 19 newQuebec street. Info: www.lapetite-poissonnerie.co.uk

16happenings

Bake Off prizewinner announced

Suits for you, sir

A CHef from the Grazing Goat was namedoverall winner of the inaugural Portman VillageBake Off.

neradah Hartnett, executive pastry chef at thenew Quebec street pub, won prizes for bestbiscuit and tastiest cake. she was also crownedoverall bake off champion at the event, whichwas held in Portman square garden.

restaurants, shops and hotels from PortmanVillage submitted 30 cakes and biscuits to bejudged by an expert panel, which was led by thereigning champion of the Great British Bake Off,frances Quinn.

entries ranged from daisy Green’s megabanana-bread sandwich to the lockhart’s lemonIce Box Pie.

Visitors enjoyed live music, food and drink,and a raffle with prizes from prosecco at Vinotecato a meal at the Portman pub. the event raisedalmost £400 for local homeless charity the westlondon day Centre’s safety boot fund.

A spokesman said: “following the bake off,we helped a day centre user to find work on aconstruction site. we bought him a hard hat buthe needed safety boots, which the fund helpedus buy for him.

“we think we’ll need to buy about 50 pairs ofsafety boots a year and so need to raise £1,000for our safety Boot fund. the bake off played apart in getting us at least a third of the way there.”

the west london day Centre is calling forpeople to join its sponsored sleep-out on October10. the annual event sees volunteers sleepingrough for the night to raise money for thehomeless. If you’d like to take part, visitwww.wlm.org.uk/sleep-out

A new tAIlOr has opened in Portman Village. taliare is a bespoke and made-to-measure

tailoring house, which was founded by formersavile row cutter erlend norby.

speaking of the seymour Place shop andwork rooms, he said: “Commissioning a garmentis a big investment of your time and and money.

“we will work with you every step of the wayto create a garment that perfectly matches yourrequirements.”

taliare has a relaxed, salon-style environment,where clients can consider a wide range of clothsfrom the finest mills in uk and europe. Made-to-measure garments range from suits to bespokeovercoats and evening tails.

taliare is at 5A seymour Place. Info: 020 7723 5100, www.taliare.com

NERADAHHARTNETT ATTHE BAKE OFF

18happenings

Hunter 486 restaurant is celebrating the gameseason with a different dish on the menu eachweek.

foodies can feast on top-quality game dishesincluding roasted haunch of Chart farm venisonwith marinated red cabbage, almond potatoes,chocolate-scented jus and caramelised parsnips.

Other dishes include roasted goose breastwith wild boar bacon and roast salsify, potato andturnip dauphinoise; and traditional roast Berkshirepheasant, bread sauce, roast potatoes, butteredgreen cabbage and chestnut purée and glazedapples.

until november 23 at Hunter 486, the Archlondon, 50 Great Cumberland Place. Info: 020 7724 4700, www.thearchlondon.com

A POt Of teA that is said to be the mostexpensive in the uk is now available at the royalChina Club.

According to the Baker street restaurant, thedrink is comparable to a fine wine – with the tealeaves of da Hong Pao left to mature and gainflavour for 80 years before being served.

the handmade tea is baked in small batchesover charcoal to create an aromatic infusion withdistinctive dark, cocoa notes.

the royal China Club is at 40-42 Baker street.Info: 020 7486 3898, www.royalchinagroup.co.uk

sunsPel HAs exPAnded its presence on Chilternstreet to include a full collection of womenswear.

the British brand was founded in 1860 by thomas A. Hill. In 1947 it became the first companyto introduce boxer shorts to the uk.

the label has supplied the rAf with issueundergarments and was worn by daniel Craig in theJames Bond film Casino Royale.

sunspel opened its first Marylebone shop at 13-15 Chiltern street in december 2012. It has nowexpanded into the premises next door, which houses afull range of womenswear.

sunspel’s new womenswear shop is at 11 Chiltern street.Info: 020 7009 0650, www.sunspel.com

Playing the game

Tea with a difference

Fantastic fit for women

20art

THE TOUR BEGINS on Oxford Street, whereyou’ll see Barbara Hepworth’s sculpture on thecorner of John Lewis. The Winged Figure wastreated to extensive restoration work last year tocelebrate its 50th birthday.Further down Oxford Street in Selfridges,

you could be standing in the former home of artistGeorge Stubbs (1724-1806). The painter, whoseportrait you can see at the National PortraitGallery, lived at 24 Somerset Street from 1764to1806, but the street was demolished to makeway for Selfridges’ expansion north of its originalsite in the 1920s. Stubbs was known for hisdepictions of magnificent horses such asWhistlejacket, which is on show at the NationalGallery. Round the corner on Orchard Street, you’ll

find a pop-up show at The Old SelfridgesHotel, directly above the Selfridges Food Hall.The huge industrial space is being filled by theInstitute of Contemporary Art for its Off-Siteproject from October 14 to18. The week-longprogramme, to coincide with the Frieze art fair,encompasses performance, music, art, danceand discussion, with different events each day.(More information at www.ica.org.uk)

A walking art education

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From Oxford Street to ChilternStreet, Lorna Davies is your guideon a walking tour of The PortmanEstate that features galleries,sculptures and artists’ homes

LEFT: GEORGE STUBBS, WHISTLEJACKET, C 1762: ©THE NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON

ABOVE: BARBARA HEPWORTH, THE WINGED FIGURE.

RIGHT: PALINDROME, PRESENTED BY NTS ANDCURATED BY TREVOR JACKSON, IMAGE COURTESY OF THE ICA

22art

Orchard Street was also home to anotherwell-known artist, the miniaturist RichardCosway (1742-1821). He lived there from around1763 until 1768. In 1785 he was appointedpainter for the Prince of Wales, and hadconsiderable influence over the official image ofthe prince.Turn left onto Portman Mews. At 7 Portman

Mews South you will see Field Work by Shauna McMullan. The carving of meadowgrasses on the building’s lower façade is a subtlereminder that the area was used as farmland upuntil the 1740s.Walk back down Orchard Street and onto

Portman Square where you’ll see some prettyiron gates at 43-45 and wall art work by JohnCarter at 40. Inside leafy Portman SquareGardens you can see the beautiful Emergence, afour part sculpture by renowned artist David Breuer-Weil.Behind you at 30 Portman Square,

Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, there is alife-sized bronze sculpture of Sir WinstonChurchill. In Conversation by LawrenceHolofcener was unveiled in November 2012 onthe hotel’s terrace.Head down Seymour Street to number 45

where at York House you’ll find Alabaster, asculpture by wiorld-famous artist Anish Kapoor.Turn around and right onto Old Quebec Street.There you’ll find a 15 foot grizzly bear waiting foryou. Indomitable is by Nick Bibby, a wildlifesculptor collected by Damien Hirst and JKRowling, and was lifted into position by a craneon June 25. “It was a gift of a commission, as I

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ABOVE: DAVID BREUER-WEIL, EMERGENCE© DAVID BREUER-WEIL

BELOW: PHILIP JACKSON, WALLENBERG MEMORIAL

OPPOSITE, FAR LEFT: SUSAN ALDWORTH,REASSEMBLING THE SELF 7, 2012

OPPOSITE, NEAR LEFT: SIR GERALD KELLY, BEACH ATETRETÂT, 1908 ©TATE

have always loved bears,” Bibby told The Portman.Walk back to Seymour Street and at the end of

the street, turn right onto Great CumberlandPlace. The man standing in the middle of thecrescent is Swedish architect and businessman,Raoul Wallenberg (1912-1947). During WorldWar Two he rescued thousands of Jews fromNazi-occupied Hungary. The memorial was madeby sculptor Philip Jackson, who also made theBomber Command Memorial Sculpture in GreenPark. On the rear of the statue, there are 100,000Schutz passes, protective passports with whichWallenberg saved the Jews. Continue walking down Great Cumberland

Place, through historic Bryanston Square andonto York Street. Number 20 was home topainter and miniaturist George Richmond(1809-1896) (look for the blue plaque.) At the end of the street, turn right and walk to

117 Gloucester Place, the former abode of SirGerald Kelly (1879-1972). There’s a blue plaqueinforming you that the portrait painter moved therein 1916 and stayed until his death 56 years later.Turn left onto Dorset Street and right onto

Chiltern Street until you reach number 48,GV Art. The gallery is currently showingReassembling the Self (on until October 11), anexhibition centered on a study of the condition ofschizophrenia, which weaves together art,science, psychiatry and individual histories.

Further down Chiltern Street you can’t missAtlas Gallery on the corner of Chiltern andDorset Street. Visit between September 25 andNovember 16 and you’ll find remarkable imagesof the unseen lives and traditions of people from35 of the world’s last indigenous tribes. JimmyNelson’s landmark project Before They PassAway is led by the British-born photographer’sfascination with other cultures that has led him ona journey around the world to document some ofthe oldest surviving communities.At the end of the street, turn left onto George

Street, where you’ll find a heron peering down atyou from the corner before Thayer Street. Thesculpture was put there when the building wasbuilt in 1967 by Heron International PLC.Walk down Thayer Street and right onto

Hinde Street until you reach ManchesterSquare, home of the world-famous WallaceCollection, where you can enjoy masterpieces ina whole new light. Find out more on page 32.Elsewhere on The Estate, plans to redevelop

Marble Arch Tower to deliver 53 luxury flats,offices, shops and a cinema were given the go-ahead in June. The scheme will also include anew public realm space featuring public art. Aspokesman for Almacantar said the precise formof the art has not yet been agreed.

24art

ABOVE: HERON INTERNATIONAL

BELOW: JIMMY NELSON, KAZAKH,ALTANTSOGTS, BAYAN OLGII,MONGOLIA, 2011 © JIMMY NELSON BV

26food & drink

“JUST HEADING OUT…to Chiltern Firehouse.”Utter these words in a central London office andit’s guaranteed to provoke more than a few swivelchair spins and wide-eyed stares. “How on earthdid you get in there?” one of my colleagues asks.Granted, I’m not Rita Ora, so was surprised whenI was offered a guided tour, drinks and a dinnerreservation this side of 2015. But when I speak toowner André Balazs, he’s keen to emphasise thatit’s a neighbourhood restaurant, and PortmanEstate residents and those who work in the areaare treated as VIPs. “The most important clientele are the people

who are our neighbours. I know with all theattention it’s gotten it seems like it’s somethingelse, but that’s absolutely not the intent and it’snever the long-term goal of anything we do,” hestresses.Since its opening in February, Chiltern

Firehouse has become a veritable beacon ofcelebsville. Not a day goes by without Kate Moss,Lily Allen, David Beckham, Harry Styles et al

being photographed slipping out of the hotel andrestaurant’s large black gates.“Yes it’s been hugely popular,” Balazs agrees,

“which is a wonderful thing, but it’s kind of also – Ithink it’s a difficult thing as well, with thepaparazzi interest. We are changing ways ofentering and exiting the building, doing what wecan, working with the neighbours and withWestminster [City Council].” For Balazs, working with the local community

is essential: “I think a good hotel should alwaysbe at the centre of its community. That’s the waya hotel survives. It becomes totally integrated intothe heart and soul of the community – certainlythat’s the way we’ve worked in the past.”He loves the area, and he has spent time

getting to know the locals: “There are somewonderful people on the street. We’re goodfriends with the two great shopkeepers directlyacross the way – Sandy, who runs the newsstand[Shreeji Newsagents, 6 Chiltern Street] and Mario,who runs the barber shop [Mario’s Barber Shop,

Inside the Chiltern Firehouse

Celebrities have regularly beenspotted at the Chiltern Firehouse,but it’s essentially a neighbourhoodrestaurant, says its owner. LornaDavies and Kate White report

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ANDRÉ BALAZS

4 Chiltern Street].” Balazs, 57, is the owner of aproperty and hotel empire comprising The Mercerin New York, Chateau Marmont in Hollywood andStandard Hotels across America. ChilternFirehouse is his first venture outside the US(although he’s now acquired the Camden TownHall Annexe in Euston Road to turn into aStandard Hotel). He chose Marylebone because “it’s kind of like

Mayfair, but a bit different. “The street is elegant,quiet, centrally located and very convenient,” hesays. “The Firehouse itself is just a magnificentbuilding, which I fell in love with. It reminded me alot of our place in New York [The Mercer], and alittle bit of the Chateau Marmont.”The building, with its soaring chimneys and

gothic detailing, looks more like an aristocraticdwelling than a former public building.The original fire station dates back to 1888,

and Balazs and his team – Studio KO in Paris andarchitect David Archer of Archer Humphreys –have been careful in restoring and emulating theoriginal designs.The restaurant itself was the appliance room,

and the flooring, columns and tile walls are allfrom the original station. There’s even a fire polegoing through the middle of one of the tables inthe corner. Renowned chef Nuno Mendes heads up the

kitchen, serving up a menu featuring deliciousdishes such as sea trout crudo, blackenedsalmon and spring lamb. Breakfast and brunchare more recent additions – French toast,buttermilk pancakes and spiced crab omelettefeature – aimed at drawing in a local crowd.

28food & drink

were on the ground floor.” Some of the building work was “almost like an

archeological dig”, says Balazs.“We discoveredthings that were inspirational and worth keeping.For example, in what was the ladder shed westarted cleaning away this institutional yellowcolour, and suddenly discovered this amazingcolour scheme that must have been the originalone when it was built in the 1880s.”The design is amazing, but for Balazs, a good

hotel is one that “first and foremost makes youfeel welcome and safe”. The crowning glory ofthe hotel is the gothic spire, the original castle-likewatchtower from which the fireman would lookout over London to see if there was any smoke orfires to put out.“We’ve had many, many firemen come by who

used to be stationed here, including the chiefs,”says Balazs. “They’ve sent beautiful letters to us saying

how heart-warming it is for them to see a placethat they lived in for so long come to life again,with kind of its original spirit, but in a completelynew way.”

Chiltern Firehouse is at 1 Chiltern Street. Info: 020 7073 7676. reservations@chilternfirehouse.com

The pretty garden leads to the ladder shed, abeautiful bar, complete with a decks and recordsand a huge work of art by Theaster Gates,commissioned by Balazs, made of fire hoses. There are 26 hotel rooms, with a homely feel

and a personal, intimate service – “you dial 0 foranything,” says Lucy McIntyre, marketing andcommunications head, who has worked withBalazs for 12 years. McIntyre shows me round a few of the hotel

rooms and by the end I don’t want to go home.The 1930s decor includes very plush carpets,remote-controlled fireplaces, heaps of storagespace, international plug sockets and the mostamazing bath tubs. All the appliances and furniture are custom-

made. There’s even the aroma from a bespokeChiltern Firehouse scented candle wafting throughthe hotel stairwell and restaurant. Balazs says the design aims to “create an

atmosphere that’s very much reflective of theneighbourhood. “We found a language and a design vernacular

that seemed appropriate and hence as gloriousas the building is on the outside, with its Victoriangrandeur. Inside at the end of the day it was avery utilitarian, municipal building. The firemenused to live there, the horses and the carriages

“The most importantclientele are thepeople who are our neighbours.”

André Balazs

CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT:THE RESTAURANT, A HOTELBATHROOM, AND AN OUTSIDEVIEW OF THE CHILTERNFIREHOUSE

AFTER TWO YEARS, £5 million and lots of hardwork The Wallace Collection’s Great Gallery opensup to the public again on September 19. Thegrand room, which houses masterpieces byartists from Rubens to Velazquez, has undergonea major makeover, boasting new interior design, anew glass ceiling and even some new paintings.

Built between 1872 and 1875, the GreatGallery was part of Sir Richard Wallace’s majorextension of Hertford House to accommodate hisart collection’s move from Paris to London. Theglass ceiling was a feature of Wallace’s originalgallery, but was blocked off in the 1970s whenenvironmental controls meant more room wasneeded for the air-conditioning unit.

When deciding on a new design, the team atthe museum looked closely at Wallace’s originalspace. Large picture galleries were a commonfeature in his day, usually placed behind theprivate living quarters, and glass ceilings were acommon element.

“Top lighting was invented around 1800 and inthe early 19th century there was still a very livelydiscussion around whether it was a good thing or

whether light from the side was better,” explainsDr Christoph Vogtherr, director of the WallaceCollection. “We still think today that top lighting isthe best for paintings, that’s why we are veryproud that we could reintroduce it.”

But it wasn’t just the light the museum had tothink about. “We realised we are reintroducing alarge glass surface and today there are lots ofperformances and guided tours and talks in thisroom, so there could have been an acousticsproblem,” Vogtherr reveals.

Luckily, The Wallace Collection has someexpert neighbours in the form of the RoyalAcademy of Music, housed on Marylebone Road.“They were very helpful and came in to examinethe space and give their opinion on the newdesign. They reassured us that the acousticswould be fine,” Vogtherr adds.

The ceiling means the stunning pieces in theroom are, quite literally, being seen in a new light.Visitors can again enjoy some of the museum’smost treasured pieces, including Frans Hals’sworld-famous The Laughing Cavalier, oftendescribed as “one of the most brilliant of all

32art

Letting in the light

WIth a new glass ceiling about to berevealed at the Wallace Collection’sGreat Gallery, masterpieces byRubens and Frans Hals can be seenin a new light, writes Lorna Davies

PETER PAUL RUBENS, THE RAINBOW LANDSCAPE, C.1636 © BY KIND PERMISSION OF THE TRUSTEES OF THE WALLACE COLLECTION

34art

Wallace’s regular designer John O’Connell. Theold wall fabric, a coral-coloured cotton damaskfrom the 1970s, has been replaced with a strikingcrimson silk damask.

“For many details, colours and patterns on thesilk we looked at photos of other great galleries inLondon townhouses in the Victorian age and wefound they had quite a bit in common. Forexample, the silk pattern was always very similarin all of these spaces and different grand housesat the time, so we were quite confident that wehad picked the right pattern and the right type ofsilk. It’s a much more sympathetic space for theworks,” says Vogtherr.

The Great Gallery has a key feature amongLondon museums in that it combines paintingsfrom different schools in one room.

“That’s very much the character of a privatecollection and we’ve kept that because we thinkit’s actually a great opportunity to talk aboutexchanges between different schools and regionsabout how painters knew each other, visited eachother,” Vogtherr says. “Rubens went to Madridand saw Velázquez there, and our Titian paintingwas owned by Van Dyck – there are all these verypersonal relationships between them.”

Vogtherr became director of the Wallace in2010 – taking over from Dame Rosalind Savill,who had led the museum for 23 years – and hasbeen working out a plan for the museum eversince. The team has defined three particular aimsover the next ten years: to broaden its visitor baseto younger age groups and lower income groups;to improve its internal infrastructure; and to raiseits research profile. “Particularly in 18th-century artand arms and armour because they are our twoworld-class specialties,” says Vogtherr.

The director’s job is to “motivate and ensure astrong direction for the museum”, somethingVogtherr says he finds particularly importantbecause of budget cuts. “Like all museums, wehave to think about money more carefully andgenerate more, but without losing sight of whatit’s all about. I need to keep everybody thinkingabout what we are here for, and that’s the art, thepublic and the enjoyment and the access of it,” hesays. The Great Gallery project was funded by a£5 million donation from the Monument Trust.

It’s the end of a huge project, one thatVogtherr and his team are excited about showingto the public. However, he’s not finished with themakeovers: “We have three rooms left on the firstfloor on the west side of the building, and thosewill be refurbished next. Then we can move to theground floor. It’s an ongoing project because justas one finishes we can start on another!”

ABOVE: THE GREAT GALLERY WILLFEATURE NEW INTERIOR DESIGN AND NEW PAINTINGS

LEFT: TITIAN, PERSEUS ANDANDROMEDIA © BY KIND PERMISSION OF THE TRUSTEES OF

THE WALLACE COLLECTION

RIGHT: FRANS HALS, THE LAUGHINGCAVALIER, 1624 © BY KIND PERMISSION OF THE TRUSTEES OF

THE WALLACE COLLECTION

Baroque portraits”; Thomas Lawrence’smonumental portrait George IV; and Paris by VanDyck, intended by the 3rd Marquess of Hertfordas a bequest to the king.

As Vogtherr explains, moving and storingworld-class masterpieces is a delicate task.

“The most important works we had put intoother rooms in the building, except two or threethat were just simply too large and wouldn’t gointo any other room,” Vogtherr tells me. “Some ofthem were stored at the Tate Gallery and for somepaintings we used the opportunity to have themcleaned and restored because they were off showanyway, so it was the perfect moment.”

This included the four large Dutch still-lifepaintings (three by Jan Weenix and one byMelchior d’Hondecoeter). “We had them cleanedand they are now back and hanging in muchmore prominent positions because they are justso much nicer to look at,” Vogtherr says.

Some new pieces have been introduced intothe collection, including two by François Lemoyne– Perseus and Andromeda and Time Saving Truthfrom Falsehood and Envy – “because we had noFrench 18th-century paintings in there and nowwe’ve made that part of the story again.”

With so many masterpieces in one room, doesVogtherr have a favourite? “It’s always very hard topick out one or two, but maybe The RainbowLandscape by Rubens, that is very iconic, it’s verymuch part of our identity.”

The room itself boasts a new design by the

THREE DECADES in the restaurant business is afeat that should certainly be celebrated, especiallyin London, where new restaurants and cafesseem to spring up on a daily basis. Fortunately it is an achievement that Hardy’s onDorset Street has reached with relative ease.Approaching its 30th year in business thisOctober, Hardy’s is a family-run brasserie and bar.What’s the secret of their success? Owner,manager, part-time sommelier and self-confessedmasochist Dominique de Bastarrechea cites the“very personal and friendly” atmosphere.

“There are not that many independent placesleft in the centre of London. We’re lucky to nowbe serving the second generation of our regularcustomers. We have the privilege of havinghistory, but at the same time work hard to keep itrelevant, so it doesn’t become a relic. Obviouslyit’s a fine balance – we can’t change too muchotherwise people would be up in arms.”The local neighbourhood restaurant is British

at heart. “We’ve had the classics on for ever – fishand chips, fishcakes and a really great shepherd’spie.” Surely not during the summer? “We tried totake the shepherd’s pie off for a few months butpeople were very upset. They didn’t seem to mindthat it was 30°C outside!” Although pies aside, English chef Sam Hughes

does change the menu every month. “We’ve beendoing quite a lot of shellfish recently after he wentto Brittany on holiday and came back inspired,”says Dominique. Trained under Rowley Leigh atKensington Place, Hughes worked at theMichelin-starred Sir Charles Napier in Oxford forseveral years, and was put up for the job by alocal patron and master chef himself, Raymond Blanc. Selecting the wine is a team effort by

Dominique and James the barman. “We try towork with several different suppliers to findinteresting bottles that generally overdeliver, ascustomers are always eager to try new things. We let them sample it, and if they don’t like it, they can change. We do a few natural wines –not the extreme ones – but we’ve been

38food & drink

A Hardy’s act to follow

With classic dishes such as fish andchips, shepherd’s pie and fishcakes,this family-run brasserie in DorsetStreet has found a reliable recipe forsuccess. By Cally Squires

DOMINIQUE DEBASTARRECHEA

40food & drink

selling a lovely Cabernet Franc recently.”Dominique’s parents took over Hardy’s from

founder Simon Boyle, and she thinks theinherited name was linked to Thomas Hardy,who was born in Dorset. Although this is purelyconjecture, there has been at least one customerwho was quietly disgruntled not to find anymemorabilia of the novelist inside the restaurant. “My father had never been in the restaurant

business. He simply came home one day andannounced that he’d bought a restaurant,” sherecalls. “Luckily my mother embraced it.” As toodid Dominique herself. “It was very small whenthey started, just one dining room downstairswith peach carpet and chintz upholstery. But myfather was a brilliant maître d’, and built up theclientele by word of mouth.”In the beginning, the bulk of customers

worked in advertising agencies or the musicindustry, with EMI based in Manchester Squareand Warner Brothers in Gloucester Place. “The restaurant just sort of established itself.

We’ve never really done any traditionalmarketing,” says Dominique. As Dorset Street isn’t a through-street, there

is surprisingly little foot traffic for a road basedjust off Oxford Street. “There are probably a lot ofpeople in the area who’ve never been downhere, but that means the people who do know itfeel like it is their own special place, and theyreally become our champions,” she explains.Will all that change with the buzz of hotelier

André Balazs’s Chiltern Firehouse on the nextstreet? Staff say they are not basking in thelimelight. “Of course we see all the comings andgoings – and have had some famous facespopping in – but happily we don’t have to dealwith paparazzi on our doorstep,” saysDominique. And unlike Balazs, de Bastarrechea is not

looking to expand her empire. “It would be verydifficult to replicate Hardy’s. This building has somuch character, and we don’t have anoverarching brand, so people can really bethemselves here. I like romance, and unlike manyLondon restaurants, commerciality is not oursole driver.”To celebrate the restaurant’s 30th

anniversary, there will be a retro menu at the endof September with prawn cocktail, steak Dianeand coq au vin – which, funnily enough, havestarted to come back into fashion now anyway –on at £19.84 for three courses. Have any dishes, besides the beloved

shepherd’s pie, stood the test of time? Off the top of her head, Dominque recalls

arctic roll as a long-time crowd pleaser, but

“We tried to take shepherd’spie off the menu for a fewmonths but the customerswere very upset. They didn’tseem to mind that it was 30degrees outside”

42food & drink

insists “food is very much about fashion – lastmonth it was all about kale and in the earlyNoughties it was rocket salad.” Any regulars whose cravings for nostalgia

aren’t satisfied by arctic roll can take a peek at theprivate dining room where old menus have beenlovingly framed and displayed.Local customers will also be pleased to hear

that having taken a short break, the Hardy’sliterary suppers are also making a comeback.“We’ve got some fun ones planned – including adinner in October on the wisdom of psychopaths,with a madness menu,” says Dominique. KevinDutton, an academic and expert on positive traitsof psychopaths, is the speaker. “The first talk we ever did was my friend Niki

Segnit’s book The Flavour Thesaurus, which wenton to become a bestseller. It’s really fantastic ifauthors have an obvious connection with food –which is why Waitrose Kitchen editor WilliamSitwell was brilliant.” Dominique’s dream authors are an eclectic list

of Professor Mary Beard, actor Stephen Fry,comedian Eddie Izzard and artist Grayson Perry.Somehow, I am not surprised.

Hardy’s is at 53 Dorset Street. Info: 020 7935 5929, www.hardysbrasserie.co.uk

IN THE 1930s, 48 Montagu Square was burgled –and the silver inkwell was stolen from the desk inthe library.“A trail of ink led across the hall, down the

front steps, along the street, and into the housethree doors down,” recalls Lord Mancroft,grandson of the former owner. “The footman therewas the culprit, and he went to prison.“After he was released he used to call round

every Christmas, with the unusual greeting, ‘Goodmorning, m’lord. I’m your burglar’. Grandfatherwould give him a golden guinea, wish him ahappy Christmas and send him on his way.”The anecdote is one of many fascinating tales

in a new book on the history of Montagu Square,published by the Montagu Square Residents’Association. It is edited by Ben Baglio, a formerchildren’s book creator and publisher.The 74-page tome contains an amusing and

44history

The colourful history of Montagu Square

ABOVE: JOHN LENNON AND YOKO ONO LEAVING THEIR FLATAT 34 MONTAGU SQUARE © REX FEATURESLEFT: PRESENT-DAY MONTAGU SQUARE GARDEN KAY & CO

It was the setting for JohnLennon and Yoko Ono’scontroversial nudephotograph, but there aremany other fascinatingtales in the history of thesquare. Kate White on afascinating new book

affectionate foreword by the author and journalistPeter York, who lived in the square for 19 yearsand was chairman of the garden committee for atime. It also features a detailed history of thesquare, which was written by Thomas Whiphamin 1990. There are memories of residents pastand present, and new material that brings thestory up to the present day. The book tells how, before Montagu Square

was built, London enjoyed a wave of prosperityafter the end of the Seven Years’ War in 1763.The city expanded rapidly, and Marylebone soongained a reputation as a fashionable place to live. The land that is now Montagu Square was

formerly known as Ward’s Field, which was hometo a cluster of cottages called Apple Village. In the1700s, one of its residents was executed atTyburn for murder. Montagu Square took its name from Mrs

Elizabeth Montagu, who lived in Montagu Housein Portman Square. It was constructed by formerchimney-sweep David Porter and the architectJoseph Parkinson. Porter and Parkinson built the houses of

Montagu Square in the traditional Georgian style,with a basement, ground and three upper floors.Rate books at the time suggest that constructionwas completed in about 1812. Each house in the square had a mews

property at the rear, where grooms andcoachmen lived in crowded conditions. The 1821census showed 14 adults and children living in asingle mews house. George Fletcher, who resided at 28 George

Street, was the first gardener employed to tendthe garden in the centre of the square. He waspaid £100 a year but had to bring his own tools. From the outset, the garden was seen as a

peaceful place for residents to enjoy. Liveryservants were not allowed to use the space, andchildren were banned from playing with bats, ballsor bows and arrows.In 1935 a number of improvements were

made to the square to commemorate the SilverJubilee of King George V and Queen Mary. Theworks cost £250 and residents were asked tomake voluntary contributions. The Second World War brought about big

changes to the square. An air raid shelter wasbuilt at the south end, and some of the houseswere requisitioned and occupied by the US army. The square was badly damaged in the war,

with five houses destroyed or demolishedbecause they were unsafe. Arthur Portman, editorof Horse & Hound for 50 years, was killed in a raidin October 1940. Lord Manford recalls: “Mr Turner, my father’s

46history

secretary, extingushed an incendiary device whichhad landed in the garden in 1941, by putting it ina fire bucket full of water, before going back to histyping.“One of the consequences of the bombs was

that the house always had a slight tilt. This meantthat the butler could not lay the dining room tableuntil five minutes before lunch, or the silver wouldstart to slide down the polished tabletop.” Like many other London squares, Montagu

Square had its railings removed to be melteddown as part of the war effort. They werereplaced with an ugly fence that was camouflagedby a privet hedge. In the 1960s an attempt to raise money to

install new railings failed; and by the mid-1990s,the fence had badly disintegrated and the hedgewas dying. It meant the garden was left with littlesecurity. As a result, the garden committee formed a

sub-group to reinstate the railings, which wouldbe made to look as similar as possible to theoriginal design. Following a series of grants anddonations, the new railings were installed in 1999. The square has been home to a number of

famous faces over the years. An early residentwas Rear Admiral Sir Frederick Lewis Maitland,who captured Napoleon at Rochefort in 1815 andtook him to Plymouth, before he was transportedto St Helena. Novelist Anthony Trollope also lived there for a

time. In his autobiography he wrote: “Early in1873 I took a house in Montagu Square, in whichI hope to live and die.” In the end he passed awayin a nursing home on Welbeck Street in 1882. In 2010, English Heritage unveiled a blue

plaque for John Lennon on the outside of 34Montagu Square. It recognises the property’sstrong links to the music scene of the 1960s,when the ground and lower-ground flat wasleased to Ringo Starr.Paul McCartney recorded demo songs there

and worked on hits including Eleanor Rigby. JimiHendrix and his manager later lived in theapartment, and it was during this time that

“It must still be one of the nicest places inLondon to live, and I am very jealous ofall those live there today.”

Lord Manford

Hendrix composed The Wind Cries Mary. In1968, the apartment was rented by two other bignames in the rock world, John Lennon and YokoOno. The controversial nude photograph of thecouple which later became the cover of their TwoVirgins album, was snapped here. The apartment was later raided by police

looking for drugs, and the landlord took out aninjunction against Starr to prevent the propertyfrom being used for anything illegal. Starreventually sold the lease in 1969. Ben Baglio’s own home at 30 Montagu Square

has had its fair share of interesting residents. Thefirst leaseholder was Thomas Bulkeley, and in1868, Percy Bulkeley of that address wascharged and convicted with four counts ofdefrauding cabmen. In 1919 Dr Charles Samuel Myers moved into

the house. Myers was a founding member andfirst president of the British Psychological Society,and introduced the term “shell shock” to medicalliterature in an article for The Lancet in 1915.After the war, the house was split into three

flats, and in 1975, Claire and William Frankelmoved in. William edited The Jewish Chronicleand was credited by The Guardian for turning itinto a “vibrant, often highly controversialnewspaper”. The square has several popular social events

throughout the year, including the annual summergarden party on the south lawn. The event isalways a sell-out, and raises money for localhomeless charity the West London Day Centre. The garden also hosts Shakespeare in the

Square, and an evening of Christmas carolsperformed by the choir of Wetherby School andthe Baker Street Quartet. Proceeds from bothevents go to the St Marylebone Rotary Club’sNewpin charity. In some senses, life in Montagu Square has

changed a lot for residents since the 1960s. LordManford recalls: “Ours was the last house in thesquare after all the others were converted intoflats.“When my parents married in 1951, my father

was living there alone with six indoor servants, nocentral heating and only one bathroom. Theservants bathed in an iron tub in front of thekitchen range.”However, from the outside, the square has

barely changed, he adds. “It must still be one ofthe nicest places in London to live, and I am veryjealous of all those live there today,” he concludes.“I wish I did.”

Montagu Square – A History costs £15. To buy a copy, please emailsecretary@montagusquare.com.

ABOVE: DESTRUCTION OF NUMBERS 28 AND 29MONTAGU SQUARE, NOW THE SITE OF MONTAGUCOURT. DECEMBER, 1940. THE PORTMAN ESTATERIGHT: THE DIAMOND JUBILEE SUMMER GARDENPARTY, JUNE 2012. DOROTHY OSBORNE

48baker street quarter

weather and the BSQP’s ambassadors, who wereon hand to meet and greet everyone, put a smile onvisitors’ faces. Kirsty Jones, marketing and communications

manager for BSQP, was delighted with the successof the series. “We were ambitious with our firstseries of summer events and had so many ideas forwhat to do that we decided to offer a range ofeverything,” she said. “We were blown away with how many people

attended and it was great to see people of theQuarter, whether workers, residents or visitors,coming together and enjoying themselves.“It’s our goal to create a vibrant Quarter and with

such great feedback about Summer in the Squarewe are hopefully on our way to doing that.” BSQP hopes to continue to host events next

year. In the meantime, its popular monthly foodmarket can be found at 55 Baker Street on thesecond Wednesday of each month.

Info: 020 3056 5910, www.bakerstreetquarter.co.uk

Taking a shine to the square

LEFT: A JENGA CONTEST KEPT THE PUNTERS AMUSEDRIGHT: TABLE TENNIS WAS ANOTHER ATTRACTION INTHE SQUARE

Crowds flocked to five freeoutdoor events in July whichoffered everything from golfcompetitions to a screening ofCasablanca. By Kate White

VISITORS AND LOCALS alike attended Summer inthe Square this year – a series of sport, culture andsocial outdoor events brought to The PortmanEstate by the Baker Street Quarter Partnership(BSQP).During July, five events took place in Portman

Square garden, which were free to attend, open tothe public, thanks to the kind permission of theGarden Committee. Deckchairs, cushions andblankets were all free of charge to visitors. The series began with Wimbledon Live, where

residents and workers watched all the action inSW19 on a big screen.Next was the Summer Festival, which expanded

on the BSQP’s food market to includeentertainment, games and even a pop-up beach.More than 25 food stalls ensured there was plenty toeat, and there were competitions and games.Golf in the Garden, held in conjunction with the

British Open, got everyone practising their puttingand swing. Crazy golf, chipping and nearest-the-pincompetitions saw crowds competing to win prizesawarded by local businesses. The spectacular Sunset Cinema showed the

classic 1942 film Casablanca, starring HumphreyBogart and Ingrid Bergman, in a setting like noother. As soon as the gates opened, people hurriedin to find their perfect positions, and there was not abare patch of grass by the time the film started.

Casablanca was truly captivating and, despitethe central London location, you could hear a pindrop during some of the scenes. With a full round ofapplause when the film credits rolled, it was clearthat it was enjoyed by all. The final event, Games in the Garden, brought

the spirit of sporting competition to the square onceagain, this time for the Commonwealth Games. Liveaction was broadcast on the screen, and FitnessFirst helped with tug-of-war, sprint, relay and table-tennis contests.More than 13,000 people in total attended these

events, with more than 6,000 people aloneattending the Wimbledon screenings. Sunny