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FORMULATION BROCHURE PEELING & CARE NATURAL EXFOLIANTS & CARE INGREDIENTS March 2014

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1

FORMULATION BROCHURE

PEELING & CARENATURAL EXFOLIANTS &

CARE INGREDIENTS

March 2014

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DIsTRIBUTION ExCELLENCE

Simon & Werner located in Flörsheim am Main is a chemical distribution company focusing on specialty chemicals. Founded in the year 1945 the company started with the formulation and filling of textile dyes. Over the years Simon & Werner became one of the leading distributors of colorants for a diversity of applications in the German speaking countries.

Thanks to this competence Simon & Werner managed to exploit many more applications in numerous industries. One of our todays key markets is the Personal Care industry. As a result of a consequent active portfolio management today we are able to offer our customers a comprehensive range of products for many different formulation concepts.

Since 2008, SIMON & WERNER is a subsidiary of TER HELL & CO. GMBH and hence a member of the international TER GROUP, which is headquartered in Hamburg Germany.

Technical ServiceSince early 2013 Simon & Werner operates an own newly build Cosmetic Application Laboratory that ...

• supports our customers with individual formulation examples

• helps our customers to overcome individual formulation problems

• provides extended access and flexibility in formulation development and modification

• develops own guide recipes

Our Portfolio• Raw Materials for Natural Cosmetics

• Active Ingredients

• Base and Co-surfactants

• Biopolymers

• Butters

• Colorants

• Conditioning Agents

• Effect Pigments

• Emollients

• Emulsifiers

• Encapsulation Systems

• Exfoliants

• Extracts

• Natural & Essential Oils

• Natural Waxes

• Preservatives & Preservative Boosters

• Polyethylene Glycols

• Rheology Modifiers & Texturizers

• UV-Filters

Our Partners

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NATURAL ExFOLIANTsJojoba Derivatives

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Jojoba Exfoliants portfolio comprises of different Jojoba derivatives offering exfoliation properties for a diversity of cosmetic product types. They are also a natural alternative to replace polyethylene beads helping to reduce contamination of the environment with plastic micron-particles.

Lipo Jojoba Exfoliants portfolio features:• Soften and smooth the surface of the skin while

moisturizing

• Work in harmony with your skin to help accelerate skin’s natural renewal process

• Designed to purify and renew skin’s texture: for refreshed, smooth, vibrant skin

JOJOBA SCRUBEADS™INCI: Hydrogenated Castor Oil (and) Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil

A natural and affordable alternative to replace polyethylene beads. They are ideal for formuations that require high mixing temperatures as their melting point is 82 – 90°C.

Standard Size Distribution20/40 Mesh(850 – 425 microns)

40/60 Mesh(425 - 250 microns)

Available Colors

Black Licorice Vanilla Shake

JOJOBA SPHERES™INCI: Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil

Primier mechanical exfoliant derived from fully hydrogenated jojoba wax in a perfectly spherical shape

Melting point: 68 – 72°C

Standard Size Distribution20/40 Mesh(850 – 425 microns)

40/60 Mesh(425 - 250 microns)

60/100* Mesh(250 – 150 microns)available inICE WHITE only

Available Colors

Jet Black Lagoon Green Ice White

Electric Blue Blueberry PieRocket Red Red HotOutrageousOrange

• Refines and polishes

• Gentle enough to use daily

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GUIDE RECIPE Fortifying shampoo (Lipo Chemicals No. 1754)

Claim• Mild shampoo with Jojoba Scrubeads™ to invigorate and massage the scalp and remove residue from the hair

• Lopinate® SB-50 fortifies and provides conditioning to create soft, smooth, totally touchable hair

A Deionized Water [Aqua] 55.15

Disodium EDTA 0.10

B Sodium Laureth-2 Sulfate 27.00 Surfactant

C Carbopol Aqua SF-1 [Acrylates Copolymer] 6.00 Lubrizol Rheology

Modifier

D NaOH Sol. 18 % [Sodium Hydroxide] q.s. Neutralizer

E Cocamidopropyl Betaine 8.00 Surfactant

Liponate® SB-50 [PEG-50 Shea Butter] 3.00 Lipo Chemicals Humectant

FJojoba Scrubeads™  Blueberry Pie 20/40 [Hydrogenated Castor Oil (and] Hydrogenated Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil]

0.35 Lipo Chemicals Exfoliant

Sodium Chloride 0.40

Preservative q.s. Preservative

Phase Trade Name (INCI) % w/w Manufacturer / Supplier Functionality

Procedure:• Mix ingredients of A in main vessel with propeller mixing

• Slowly add phase B to main vessel, continue mixing until homogeneous

• Slowly add phase C to main vessel, continue mixing

• Neutralize with the addition of phase D, continue mixing, start heating

• Slowly add phase E ingredients, continue mixing and heating

• When batch reaches 75°C, hold 5 minutes while mixing, start cooling

• When batch reaches 35°C add remaining ingredients, continue mixing until homogeneous

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ExFOLIATIONNatural & Wax Based Exfoliant

Lipo Chemicals physical exfoliants include a wide array of naturally occurring materials, each with its own unique appearance and abrasive quality. Typical use level is between 1 – 5 %.

Sunflower Wax Beads consist of naturally derived, high molecular weight monoesters ranging from C36-C46 with colorants. These round exfoliating beads are available in a variety of colors and mesh sizes.

Advantages:Wax Beads offer a natural, gentle exfoliation and can be used in a wide range of products like Creams, Lotions, Thick Gels, Clear Gels, Bath Soaps, Bath Cleansers, Facial and Body Scrubs

Lipo® AMSRipe kernels of the Prunus

Amygdalus Treesoft to mild

Lipo® Luffa 30/100 Fruit of the Luffa Cylindrica soft to mild

Lipo® Colored Luffa 30/100 From the ground luffa fruit soft to mild

Lipo® JJM 10/24

Lipo® JJM 24/60Seeds of the jojoba plant Soft to mild

Lipo® GSP 60/200 Grape seeds mild to moderate

Lipo® APS 40/60 Apricot Seed Powder mild to moderate

Lipo® RHS 60/100 Rosa Canina Seed Powder mild to moderate

Lipo® VI 40/60

Lipo® VI 60/100

Seeds of the Ecuadorean Ivory

Palmmoderate

Lipo® WSF 35/60

Lipo® WSF 60/100crushed English walnut shells

moderate to hard

moderate

Product Origin Abrasiveness

SUNFLOWER WAX BEADS

INCI: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, (color)

Blue 1 Lake

Red 40 Lake

Blue 1 Lake, Yellow 5

Standard Size Distribution

20/40 Mesh 20/60 Mesh 40/60 Mesh

Available Colors

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sURFACTANT & FOAMING PRODUCTs

Genagen® SC surfactants blends based on Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Cocamide MEA featuring formulations through …

• Excellent thickening properties

• Cold processable

• Excellent foaming in low surfactant based rinse off products

• Stabilizing pearl effects

• Improving opacifier stability

• Mild formulations due to low irritation

• Excellent re-fatting properties

• Enhancing viscosity with or without addition of sodium chloride

INCI: Sodium Laureth Sulfate (and) Cocamide MEA

Hostapon® SG opens new formulation concepts due to its ability to create excellent rich and creamy foam in EO and sulphate-free cleansing products.

INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate

• Natural based

• EO- and Sulphate-free cleansing products with excellent foam within a broad pH range

• Significantly milder than other anionic surfactants

• Free of preservatives

It is an innovative mild surfactant, based on Glycine, the main amino acid of human collagen. It is also significantly milder than other anionic surfactants and gentle to skin and hair without compromising on cleansing efficacy. Economic, liquid, salt containing form with highest possible active concentration (approx. 25%).

Liposine Glyglu /R is a NATRUE certified high foaming, preservative free surfactant based on Lipo-Amino Acid from vegetable origin.

Liposine Glyglu /R can be used as the primary surfactant for ultra mild cleansing products or as co-surfactant to improve the physiological properties of synthetic surfactant based formulations.

INCI: Aqua [and] Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate [and] Potassium Cocoyl Rice Amino Acid

Sapindus Mukorossi Extract also known as Soap Nut has been used for centuries to make soap and shampoos. In mild cleansing formulations it supports the foaming properties. The anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and anti-inflammatory properties makes it an interesting raw material for e.g. anti-dandruff formulations.

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GUIDE RECIPE Moisturizing Body-Lotion (sVI/1000)

Claim• Moisturizing Body-Lotion with Portulaca Oleracea Extract and organic oils

• Luxurious cream that immediately leaves a rich, none fatty skin feeling

• Cold processable

A Hostacerin® DGI [Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate] 2.00 Clariant Emulsifier/

Stabilizer

Tegosoft OS [Ethylhexyl Stearate] 5.00 Evonik Emollient

Organic Almond Sweet Oil Crude [Prunus Dulcis (Sweet) Almond Oil] 8.00 Earthoil Oil

Organic Avocado Oil Crude (Fair for Life) [Persea Gratissima Oil] 5.00 Earthoil Oil

B Aristoflex® Velvet [Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11] 1.20 Clariant

Rheology

Modifier

C Hostapon® CGN [Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate] 1.00 Clariant Co-Emulsifier

Glycerin 99 % [Glycerin] 3.00 TER GROUP Humectant

Deionized Water [Aqua] ad 100.00

Ma Chi Xian (MCX) [Portulaca Oleracea Extract] 1.00 Green Mountain

Biotech Active

D-Panthenol 75 % [Panthenol] 1.00 The White Sea and

Baltic Active

Preservative q.s. Preservative

DKoster Milk 202[Water, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Glycerin, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Sodium Hydroxide (50%), Phenoxyethanol]

3.00 Koster Keunen Holland B.V. Moisturizer

KemSpheres™ CER[Water, C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ceramide-3, Cetyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Laureth-23, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Triethanolamine]

2.00 OTC Active

Fragrance q.s. Perfume

Phase Trade Name (INCI) % w/w Manufacturer / Supplier Functionality

Procedure:• Mix the components of phase A

• Incorporate phase B into I

• Add phase C to II and homogenize

• Incorporate phase D

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RHEOLOGY, sTABILITY & TExTUREWax Dispersions & Polymers

Koster Milks are easy to use wax dispersions.

They improve protective and sensorial properties of skin care formulations. They provide an innovative, easy and economic solution to formulate natural waxes. Their cold processability reduces process and energy costs and allows a significantly lower emulsifier dosage.

• Extraordinary film forming abilities

• Improves protective and sensorial properties of sun, hair and skin care formulations

• Improved distribution of ingredients boosts SPF and overall product performance

• Possibility to combine different milks in a single formulation

Koster Milks are available in three different versions with a wax content of 40 %.

Koster Milk 102 (Beeswax)

Koster Milk 202 (Sunflower Wax)

Koster Milk 302 (Carnauba Wax

Our guide recipe for a body lotion on page 7 contains 3 % of Koster Milk 202 (Sunflower Wax) and features a good spreadability and pleasant skin feeling.

Aristoflex® Velvet supports todays consumer requirements towards light and elegant skin care products. It delivers unique benefits in a wide range of formulations:

• A superior sensory profile for your products

• Soft, velvety skin feel

• Excellent solvent compatibility

• Stabilize particles

The 100 % active, pre-neutralized and ready to use polymer makes it easy to incorporate into numerous product types like

• Very light emulsifier-free cream gels

• Lotions, balms, milks and serums

• Pampering essential daily use, luxurious anti-aging, sun care

• Clear gels, with high amounts of organic solvents (e.g. ethylacetate, isopropanol, acetone)

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GUIDE RECIPE FACIAL PEELING (sIV/1001)

Claim• Mild foaming scrub

• Pearlized whipped cream

A Deionized Water[Water] 58.90

Di-Na EDTA 0.10 Complexing Agent

Medialan® LD[Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate] 10.00 Clariant Surfactant

Glycerin 99 % [Glycerin] 7.50 TER GROUP Humectant

B Palmitic Acid 3.00 Emulsifier/Stabilizer

Myristic Acid 7.50 Emulsifier/Stabilizer

Stearic Acid 5.00 Emulsifier/Stabilizer

Lauric Acid 1.00 Emulsifier/Stabilizer

C Potassium Hydroxide q.s. Neutralizer

D Nipaguard® PDU[Propylene Glycol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Diazolidinyl Urea] q.s. Clariant Preservative

EJojoba Spheres™Electric Blue 40/60[Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil]

2.00 Lipo Chemicals Exfoliant

Jojoba Spheres™Ice White 60/100[Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil]

2.00 Lipo Chemicals Exfoliant

You Huang Zi[Sapindus mukorossi fruit extract] 2.00 Green Mountain

Biotech Active

Frag. 49404811[Fragrance] q.s. Drom Perfume

Phase Trade Name (INCI) % w/w Manufacturer / Supplier Functionality

Procedure:• Mix and heat the components of A to 75 °C.

• Melt B at 75°C.

• Add I. to II. and cool down under stirring.

• Adjust the pH of III. with C to 7.0.

• Add the components of D to IV. while stirring.

• Add the components of E to V. while stirring, when cold.

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CARE INGREDIENTsDelivery systems & Extracts

Gorgonian Extract® PTG is a natural anti-inflammatory ingredient extracted from sea whip.

INCI: Pentylene Glycol (and) Sea whip Extract

Its anti-inflammatory properties makes it an interesting care ingredient for

• After care for skin exfoliation treatment

• After-shave products

• Eye care products

• Sun/after sun products

KemSpheres™ R 4 % Retinol

KemSpheres™ Q10 / 0,5 0.5 % Ubiquinone (Q10)

KemSpheres™ Q10 / 5 5 % Ubiquinone (Q10)

KemSpheres™ CER 6 % Ceramide-III

KemSpheres™ TTO 10 % Tea Tree Oil

KemSpheres™ VBE 15 % Vanillyl Butyl Ether

Product Encapsulated Care Ingredient (Concentration)

KemSpheres™ – is a delivery system that delivers pure actives easily in a stable form, offering benefites like:

• Deliver more active quicker and with more effective results

• Stability of actives

• Less irritation for consumers

• Long lasting

• Ease to formulate (add, stir, ready)

Active botanical ingredients offer numerous biological activities that support modern skin care formulation concepts. Their anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidative and anti-itching properties make them interesting ingredients to treat sensitive and irritated skin.

A unique extraction procedure using macroporous resins chromatography increases the concentration of the biological active ingredients through the removal of organic salts, heavy metals and large quantities of starch which finally results in an improved biological activity.

Rheum Palmatum root (Rhubarb) Extract and Scutellaria baicalensis root (Scullcap) Extract are two ingredients that have been used in our DAY & NIGHT CREAM GEL guide recipe demonstrating their use in consumer products.

Jojoba Pro-HP® – is a solution of hydrolyzed jojoba protein derived from jojoba seed. This unique, plant-derived, non-allergenic protein acts as a natural moisturizer and has exceptional film forming properties in both skin and hair care applications. In hair care formulations, Jojoba Pro-HP® repairs damage and improves the shine.

Key Benefits:

• Effective Film-Former

• Moisturizing

• Repair and Conditioning

• 100% Plant Derived

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GUIDE RECIPE DAY & NIGHT CREAM GEL (sIII/1001)

Claim• For normal to combination skin

• Moisturizing

• Silicone-free

A Cetiol® OE[Dicaprylyl Ether] 5.00 BASF Emollient

Myristol® 318[Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride] 5.00 BASF Emollient

Lanette® O[Cetearyl Alcohol] 2.00 BASF Stabilizer

B Deionized Water[Water] Ad 100.00

Glycerin 99 %[Glycerin] 8.00 TER GROUP Humectant

Xanthan Gum 200 mesh [Xanthan Gum] 0.30 TER GROUP Biopolymer/stabilizer

C Liponate® NPGC-2[Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate] 5.00 Lipo Chemicals Emollient

D Aristoflex® Velvet[Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11] 1.50 Clariant

Rheology Modifier/

Texturizer

E DL-alpha Tocopherol[Tocopheryl Acetate] 0.10 The White Sea & Baltic Antioxidant

Da Huang[Rheum Palmatum Root Extract] 1.00 Green Mountain Biotech Active

Huang Qin[Scutellaria baicalensis Root Extract] 1.00 Green Mountain Biotech Active

KemSpheres™ R[Glycine Soja Oil, Aqua, Glycerin, Cera Alba, Retinol, Laureth-23, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Triethanolamine, Ceramide-3]

1.00 OTC Active

Gorgonian Extraxt® PTG[Pentylene Glycol (and) Sea Whip Extract] 0.50 Lipo Chemicals Active

Hylasome® EG-10[Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer] 3.00 Lipo Chemicals Active

Jojoba Pro-HP®

[Hydrolyzed Jojoba Proteins] 3.00 Lipo Chemicals Active

Perfume q.s. Drom Perfume

Phenonip®

[Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben, and, Ethylparaben, (and) Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Isopropylparaben]

q.s. Clariant Preservative

Citric Acid q.s.

Phase Trade Name (INCI) % w/w Manufacturer / Supplier Functionality

Procedure:• Mix the components of A and melt at approx. 80°C.

• Dissolve B.

• Add to II. when dissolved.

• Add the components of D to I while stirring.

• Add II to IV. while stirring at 250 rpm, allow to cool down.

• Add E to IV lower than 35°C.

• Adjust the pH with F to 6.0 to 6.5.

• Finally homogenize.

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Partner of HSH Chemie Distribution Group

SIMON & WERNER GMBH

Hafenstrasse 22 · 65439 · Flörsheim am Main · Germany · T +49 (0)6145 95 66 71 13 · [email protected] · www.simon-und-werner.deThis information is based on our present state of knowledge and is intended to provide general notes on our products and their uses. lt should not therefore be construed as guaranteeing specific properties of the products described or their suitability for a particular application. Any existing industrial property rights must be observed. The quality of our products is guaranteed under our General Conditions of Sale.

SIMON & WERNER GMBH