Pennsylvania 4-H HorseSafety Standards

4-H Horse Project

18 U.S.C. 707

College of Agricultural SciencesCooperative Extension

Contents

INTRODUCTION ............................................... 1

How to Use the 4-HHorse Safety Standards ........................................ 1

SECTION A: Barn Fire Safety andEmergency Response .................... 3

SECTION B: Facilities ........................................ 5

SECTION C: Pastures ......................................... 7

SECTION D: Tack and Attire .............................. 9

SECTION E: Ground Handling......................... 11

SECTION F: Saddling and Bridling ................. 13

SECTION G: Riding .......................................... 15

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4-H HORSE SAFETY

IntroductionHorse activities can be fun and rewarding for theentire family. However, everyone should under-stand that since horses are unpredictable, there isalways a certain level of risk when we work withthem. You can do many things to reduce the risksinvolved in horse activities.

Selection of a suitable horse, ongoing instruc-tion, and proper supervision are vital to reducerisks and maintain safety. Work with a qualifiedinstructor to find the “right’ horse for you andhelp you improve your horsemanship skills andsafety habits.

Regardless of whether you keep your horse atyour own farm or at a boarding stable, you canalways improve your own safety habits. Alwaysthink of safety first whether handling, caring for,riding, or driving your horse.

Most changes to improve safety requireminimal expense or effort on your part. Smalladjustments to your horse’s environment and inyour attitude can greatly increase safety for youand your horse.

“The design and management of your stable isvery important to your horse’s health and safetyand often to your own as well. If you have theluxury of building a whole new barn to your ownspecifications, you can avoid many problems. But,if like the rest of us, you have to make do withwhat you’ve got, you can improve your stable withsome minor changes and careful management.”(From Safe Horse, Safe Rider, 1994).

The safety checklist and standards provideguidelines to help develop your safety attitudesand habits when working with horses. However,they should not be used without additional studyand instruction. These materials can help leaderspinpoint strengths and weaknesses of safetyknowledge within their groups and focus futurelessons and activities in areas that need improve-ment. These materials should be used with hands-on instruction by parents, leaders, project helpers,and experienced horse handlers or professionals.

How to Use the4-H Horse Safety StandardsDIRECTIONSThe following horse safety standards matchyour checklist with corresponding numbers foreach item.

For example, if you want to know how manyfire extinguishers your barn should have and howfar apart they should be, look at SECTION A,numbers 1, 2, and 3 on your checklist and thenlook at SECTION A, numbers 1, 2, and 3 in thissafety standards booklet. Compare your checklistwith the guidelines in this booklet to see ifyour answers match what is stated in the safetystandards.

For additional information, contact your 4-Hleader or extension agent and refer to the 4-HHorse Safety Resources list available at http://www.das.psu.edu (click on horses, then 4-H HorseProgram) or from your county extension andoutreach office.

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SECTION A: Barn Fire Safety and Emergency Response

1., 2., and 3.A charged, minimum 10 lb., ABC fireextinguisher should be available every 50 feetin the barn. An ABC fire extinguisher can beused on any kind of fire. Never use water on anelectrical fire. Your local fire department canservice your extinguisher to be sure it is chargedand ready to use. Practice the procedures andsteps involved with using the fireextinguishers at your barn.Remember that many fire extin-guishers are useless after theyhave been discharged once.Replace or recharge fire extin-guishers as needed after use.

4.All electrical wires in the barn should beenclosed in conduit (metal or plastic casing).They should be located out of animals’ reachto prevent chewing by rodents or horses. Anyfrayed or damaged wires should be replaced.

5.All electrical appliances should be kept in goodcondition and unplugged when not in use. Por-table heaters, heat lamps, and fans should be usedwith caution and should not be left unattended.

6.Electrical panels should be free from cobwebsand dust. The faceplate of the electrical panelshould be attached to the panel. Doors should beon and kept closed, and the panel should beprotected from horses and the weather.

7.No Smoking signs should be posted, easily seen,and obeyed. No Smoking signs should be postedat every entrance to the barn. A no smokingpolicy should be enforced at your barn.

8.A water source that can supply a constant streamof water should be located within 100 feet of thebarn. A freezeproof faucet or hydrant with hoseattached (or nearby in winter) is best. The hoseshould be long enough to reach all parts of thebarn.

9. and 10.Fire drills should be conducted routinely, prefer-ably once a month. A fire escape plan should beposted in the barn. The fire department phonenumber and directions to your barn should beposted by a phone. Have a sign-in sheet foreveryone present in the barn. Establish a meetingplace outside of the barn in case of fire and assignone person to supervise the meeting place. Nevergo back into a burning barn even if you do not seeany flames.

11.An adult should be in charge if a barn fireoccurs. Only trained firefighters with properequipment should enter a burning barn. Extremecaution should be used to remove horses from abarn fire to avoid loss of human lives.

12. and 13.Flammable liquids (gasoline, oil, paint, etc.)should be stored in a secure, separate placeaway from the barn. No flammable liquids shouldbe stored with any ignitable substances (hay,bedding, etc.). If at all possible, hay and beddingshould be stored in a separate building away fromthe barn. If hay is stored in the barn, there shouldbe a firewall between the hay and the horses.

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14. and 15.Fully stocked first aid kits for both humans andhorses should be available in the barn at all times.Consult with your veterinarian for additionalitems to include for your horse. The followingsupplies should be included in both first aid kits:

• Doctor (or emergency contact) andveterinarian phone numbers

• Thermometer

• Stethoscope

• Bandage scissors/heavy scissors forcutting cloth

• Sterile gauze pads (several sizes)

• 3–4 inch gauze bandage

• 2 inch adhesive tape

• Self-sticking bandages (vet-wrap, etc.)

• Leg quilts and wraps

• Band-aids

• Large pressure bandage (8 inch X 10 inch)

• Triangular bandage

• Antiseptic scrub or wipes

• Antibiotic ointment for minor wounds

• First aid guide book, veterinary manual

18.Keep a laminated and easy-to-read list of thefollowing phone numbers by the telephone.

• 911 or emergency dispatcher

• Fire department

• Local police/sheriff’s office

• Poison control

• Electric/gas supply

• Relative/neighbor

• Parent’s work number

• Veterinarian

19. and 20.Always have the directions to the farm writtendown by the phone, for the emergency dispatcher.Always have specific directions, with mileageand landmarks clearly indicated. You never knowwho will be making the phone call and whatstate of mind he/she will be in at the time of theemergency/incident.

21. and 22.You should know where you will be connected ifyou dial 911. If you do not know, contact your localpolice department. This is important so you knowhow to give correct directions. Give the emergencydispatcher the following information:

• your name and the phone number you arecalling from

• location of the accident

• nature of the injury (to the horse and/or the rider)

• number of victims (animal and human)

• condition of the victims (animal and human)—bleeding, head injury, leg injury, etc.

• type of aid that has been given to the victim(s)

• who will meet the emergency personnelat the scene

• any special conditions that might hinderthe rescue or treatment

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16.At least two persons should have currentcertification in first aid (within 3 yrs) andCPR (within 1 yr).

17.You should have easy access to a telephone foremergency use, either located in the barn or ahouse if it is close by.

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SECTION B: Facilities

1.Box stalls should be a minimum of 10 ft X 10 ftfor most horses. The standard box stall size is12 ft X 12 ft. Larger stalls may be needed forlarger breeds, foaling mares, or stallions.

2.A 4-foot-wide stall door is standard. This widthprovides enough room for the horse to walkthrough the doorway without bumping itself.Dutch or “half” stall doors should be at least ashigh as your horse’s shoulder (approximately41⁄2 to 5 feet high) to discourage your horse fromtrying to climb or jump over the door. Dutch-styledoors are safer when they are hinged to open out.Roller-type doors are usually the safest.

3.In an emergency, latches must be easy for you toopen but difficult for your horse. If your horse canopen its stall door, your horse is not in a safesituation. The safest stall door has two latches,one at the top and one at the bottom. No latches aretotally horseproof but you can try to baffle yourhorse’s escape attempts. Effective latchesare kiwi gate latches, hooks with flanges, horse-resistant chain latches, and slide bars with boltattachments. Always remember to position latchesso that they do not protrude and possibly injure thehorse’s side as it goes through the doorway.

4. and 5.Flooring should be non-slip and properly drained.Bedding should be free of dust, mold, and splin-ters. Good examples include clean shavings,sawdust, and straw. Hardwood shavings are notacceptable. Black walnut shavings should neverbe used due to toxins that can cause seriousproblems such as founder and hoof sloughing.Shavings should be deep; 3 to 4 inches or moreare recommended. Rubber stall mats should betextured for good footing, be specifically intendedfor stall use, and covered with bedding.

6.All lightbulbs and switches must be out of yourhorse’s reach. Any lightbulb in a stall should be atleast 8 to 10 feet high and enclosed or protected bya wire cage. The ideal light fixture is explosionproof. This means the lightbulb is enclosed in aglass jar and the glass jar is enclosed in a wirecage. The glass jar catches the broken pieces oflightbulb should it burst.

7.Spaces should be no greater than 11⁄2 to 2 inchesbetween boards in the lower 4 to 5 feet of the wall.This spacing should prevent your horse fromcatching its hoof between the boards if it rollsor kicks.

8.The stall walls should have no splinters, protrud-ing nails, broken boards, or sharp edges.

9.Spaces between the bars and mesh in the openwork in the upper stall walls should not exceed2 to 3 inches. Bars or mesh should be strong andreinforced so they do not spread apart and trap ahoof if the horse kicks.

10.The safest way to feed hay is to feed it on the flooror in a corner floor manger. The next best alterna-tive is a hayrack. Hayracks need to be at the sameheight as your horse’s withers. If the hay ishigher than your horse’s withers, it can cause dustand particles to go into your horse’s nose and eyesand can lead to problems with your horse’s lungsor eyes. Be aware thata horse’s leg may becaught in a hayrackand injured. Hayracksshould be constructedas in item #8.

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11.If you use hay nets, they must be high enoughthat when empty, your horse cannot put a foot intothe netting. Hay nets should be used with caution!

12.Feeders should be hung as high as your horse’schest and have no sharp edges. Feeders shouldbe sturdy and easy to clean. Feed tubs on theground may also be used, if they have no sharpedges and do not easily overturn.

13.The minimum width of a barn aisle is 10 to 12feet. However, be aware that this width still doesnot give you enough room to walk around yourhorse without entering the horse’s comfort orflight zone. Therefore, when passing horses tied inthe aisle, approach each horse carefully and passin a safe manner. Keep aisles clear of junk. Aislefloors should be constructed with a non-slipsurface.

14. and 15.Grain must be kept in a securely locked grainroom or container. The grain room needs to beventilated to prevent mold, dust, and spontaneouscombustion. The grain bin should be securelylocked so that a loose horse cannot gain access tothe grain. Grain bins should be rodent-proof andprotected from the weather to prevent spoilage.

16.Keep the barn neat. Shovels, brooms, and manureforks should be hung or stored in a designatedplace. Grooming tools and tack should be stored inthe tack room. Loose hay should be swept; balingtwine and trash should be removed regularly.

17.Riding arenas must have sturdy, safe fencing andgates that close when riders are inside. Fencingand gates should not have any protruding partsthat may catch on riders’ clothing, knees, ortoes, or on any tack. Riding arenas should be aminimum of 60 feet in diameter. A typical arenasize for many uses is 120 ft by 240 ft. The arenashould have level, soft footing with good traction.Avoid surfaces that are extremely hard or rocky.

18.All areas of horse facilities should be regularlyinspected for possible hazards to horses, riders,handlers, or spectators. Work with your leader,project helper, or parent to identify and removeany potential hazards. Learn more about horsebehavior to help you identify possible hazards tohorses and humans.

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SECTION C: Pastures

1.Check pastured horses at least twice a day forgeneral health or condition, injury, illness, shelter,and lack of water.

2.Your horse needs a constant supply of freshwater at all times. The water source can be aclear running stream/creek, a pond, or water inclean buckets or troughs.

3.Machinery, equipment, and junk should not beleft or stored in the pasture. If these items are inyour pasture, remove them if possible or keepyour horse from becoming injured by putting afence around the machinery and junk.

4. and 5.Learn the plants in your area that are poisonous toyour horse and remove them from the pasture.Most ornamental plants and trees are consideredtoxic to horses.

6.Fences for horses must be strong, visible, tallenough to discourage jumping, and in goodrepair. Avoid crowding groups of horses in smallspaces or tight corners. Properly constructedboard or vinyl fencing is usually the safest type offencing. Smooth, high-tensile wire is not easy tosee and should be kept electrified to keep horsesaway. Flags, signs, or colored polyvinyl wire canincrease visibility. High-tensile wire fencingshould be used with caution.

7.The top rail or wire of your fence should be atleast 54 to 60 inches or more from the ground.The bottom rail or wire should be 8 to 12 inchesoff the ground. Woven or mesh wire fencingshould extend to ground level and have no spacesto trap a horse’s foot or leg.

8.You are responsible for making sure the gate toyour pasture is closed and latched every time youenter or leave a pasture. Gates should close flushto the post with no gap in between. A gate latchshould discourage your horse from opening it.Some examples are chain and hook, snap to fastena chain together, and a latch with a flange.

9.The area and footing around feeders, watersources, and gates should be free of holes, rocks,junk, or other debris that may result in injury tohorses. Well-drained soil or limestone screeningswill provide good traction and prevent muddy,slippery conditions that may cause hoof/lowerleg problems.

10.It is not safe to leave a halter on a horse thatis loose in a stall or turned out in a paddockor pasture. A halter may catch on a post or otherobject and cause serious injury or death.

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11.Your horse should have access to a windbreak orshelter such as a thick grove of trees or run-inshed. A run-in shed should be at least 10 ft X 10 ftor 12 ft X 12 ft or more in total area per horse.Adequate body condition (or fat) and a long-hairedcoat also help keep the pastured horse warm incold weather. In extremely hot conditions, shadeshould also be provided.

12.You need to check your pasture fence and gateevery day and walk around your entire fence atleast once a week. Check pastures regularly fordowned tree limbs, holes in the ground, andbroken or loose fencing and gates.

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SECTION D: Tack and Attire

1.To reduce the risk of head injuries, ASTM-SEIsafety helmets should be worn when riding,driving, or working around your horse. Safetyhelmets should be used every time you ride ordrive your horse!

2.Safety headgear should be labeled as certified bythe Safety Equipment Institute (SEI) to meet thecurrent applicable standards ofthe American Society forTesting and Materials(ASTM). Bicycle helmetsare not acceptable for usewhen riding or workingaround horses. Only usesafety headgear intendedfor use with horses.

3.Your helmet must fit properly with the correctharness adjustment to be effective in preventinghead injuries. The helmet should fit snugly andshould not move around on the head withoutmoving the chin. The harness should fit the chinwhen the strap is buckled. When properly ad-justed, the helmet should not “roll” easily forwardor backward, and should not be removable withoutunbuckling the harness strap.

4.Sturdy shoes or boots for riding should provideankle support and have at least a 1⁄2 inch heel.A well-defined heel helps to prevent your footfrom slipping through the stirrup and keepsyou from potentially being dragged by the horseduring (or after) a fall. When doing groundwork,sneakers and sandals are not acceptable. Leather,hard-toed shoes, or boots should be worn at alltimes and will help protect your feet if your horseshould step on them.

5.Wear neat, well-fitting clothing that will notbecome snagged on equipment. Avoid loose,“baggy” clothing (i.e. shirts or jackets) that maybecome hooked over the saddle horn. Long pantsare recommended for riding to prevent sores andto avoid cuts from brush. Many types of pantswork well for riding, including denim jeans, chaps,riding tights, or schooling pants.

6.When the rider is mounted, a Western saddleshould have about 2 inches of clearance betweenthe withers and the gullet. Insufficient clearancemeans the fork of the saddle is too wide or thewithers of the horse are too high for the particularsaddle. More than 2 inches of clearance indicatesthat the saddle fork is too narrow for the horse.Both situations can cause your horse discomfortand decrease the safety of your ride.

7.With an English saddle, the distance betweenthe saddle and the horse’s spine should beapproximately 1 to 11⁄2 inches. The saddle(English or Western) should not touch anypart of the horse’s spine or pinch the horse’sshoulders, withers, back, or loin.

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8.Safety stirrups are available forboth Western and Englishsaddles. English stirrups includevarious styles that either have oneside of the stirrup free or a sidethat breaks away if a rider needsto remove the foot quickly.Western types include breakawaystirrups and tapaderos or coveredstirrups. Tapaderos or covered stirrups coverthe toe when the foot is in the stirrup and helpprevent the foot from slipping through the stirrup.Tapaderos or covered stirrups are consideredsafe only if they are designed so the rider’s toewill not become entrapped.

9.Properly sized Western stirrups should have atleast 1⁄2 inch between your foot and the sides ofthe stirrup. English stirrups should have 1 to 11⁄2inches between your foot and the sides of thestirrup. Stirrups should have enough space to helpprevent your foot from becoming trapped duringa fall.

10.To determine the correct length of stirrups whenmounted on an English saddle, the bottom ofthe irons should be level with or at the bottom ofyour anklebone. For Western stirrups, when youare standing up in the saddle, with legs properlypositioned, heels slightly down and knees slightlybent, you should be able to fit approximately2 fingers to a hands width between your seatand the saddle. The same guideline for Englishsaddles/stirrups also works well for Westernsaddle/stirrups.

11.A correctly fitting bit should rest comfortablyin the horse’s mouth. The headstall should beadjusted so that the mouthpiece of the bit does nothang loosely on the tongue nor pinch at the junc-tion of the upper and lower lips. A correctly fittingbit is wide enough for the horse’s jaw with thesidepieces just touching, but not pinching the lips.A bit that is too wide ortoo narrow lessens yourcontrol and increasesyour horse’s discomfort.

12. and 13.Every time you tack up your horse you shouldcheck the hardware, buckles, snaps, straps,stitching, and leather condition. Repair or replaceworn, damaged, or broken equipment. Tack shouldbe cleaned and conditioned on a regular basis.Sweat, dirt, hair, mildew, and other debris shouldbe promptly removed to prevent damage to theleather and avoid irritation of the horse. Alsocheck for correct fit of your tack and correct anyproblem that may cause discomfort to your horseor lessen your control and safety during your ride.

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5.Always stand close to your horse whengrooming. Always keep your free hand on thehorse’s body. Face slightly toward the horse’shindquarters. Pay attention to your horse’sbody language, particularly the action of itsears and tail. Ears pinned against the head andexcessive tail swishing mean, “Watch out!”

6.When brushing your horse’s tail,stand close to the horse, but off tothe side. Do not stand directlybehind the horse.

7.The standard amount of lead rope, from halter toknot, used to tie a horse is an arm’s length ofrope. You do not want your horse to get a frontfoot over the rope or its head under the rope ifit is too long. Also, you do not want your horseto be tied so close that it panics, pulls back, andbecomes injured.

8.Always tie your horse at withers or eye level orhigher to help prevent the horse from becomingentangled in the rope. Also, a horse that panicswhen it is tied lower than recommended has agreater chance of injuring its neck or spine.

SECTION E: Ground Handling

1.When you approach your horse, walk slowly butconfidently at an angle toward your horse’sshoulder. Never approach directly in front of ordirectly behind the horse. Be sure your horseacknowledges your approach. Try not to startleyour horse and speak calmly as you approach.

2.When you enter your horse’s comfort or flightzone, the horse may move away, turn aroundtoward you, turn away from you, or shift itsweight. Some horses’ comfort zones are smallerthan others. Learn the boundaries of yourhorse’s comfort or flight zone! If your horsemoves away from you, STOP until the horserelaxes and try again!

3.Always keep your hand on your horse when youare working on it. Talk to your horse. Do notassume your horse is paying attention to you.Occasionally, horses may fall asleep or becomedistracted. Even when you have been working onyour horse for a while, if you step away and thenreturn, you can still startle your horse.

4.Stay close when moving directly behind yourhorse. Before moving, speak to the horse, placeyour arm across its hindquarters, then movequietly, yet quickly to the other side. If you needto walk around a horse, leave at least one horselength (10 to 12 feet) between you and the horse.You should stay very close (being careful ofyour feet) to reduce the impact of a kick or stayfar enough away to be out of the horse’s kickingrange.

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9.Tie your horse to a sturdy, immovable object.A sturdy post is ideal. Do not tie your horseto railings, boards, gates, or trailers that are nothitched. Your horse and/or you could be injured ifyour horse pulls the rail, board, or the gate free.

10.Never tie your horse with your reins. If yourhorse pulls back, its teeth and/or jaw may be hurt,or your reins may break. Carry a lead rope andhalter with you on every trail ride. Use a lead ropeif you need to tie your horse on the trail.

11.Learn to make a quick-release knot for tyingyour horse. There are different kinds of quick-release knots, but use the one you are sure you cantie properly. The safest knots will easily comeloose if the horse pulls back. Even when using aquick-release knot, keep a knife handy in case youhave to cut your horse loose in an emergency.Quick-release snaps may also be used.

12.When you lead your horse, walk off to its leftside between the head and the shoulder. Do notallow your horse to push ahead of you. Walk closeto the horse, yet keep enough space between youand the horse so that the horse does not crowd youor step on your feet. Turn the horse away from youand avoid pulling the horse toward you whenturning. Hold the lead rope just below the snap.Be aware of your surroundings. Be calm andconfident. Be in charge!

13.Never wrap the extra length of lead ropearound your hand. If your horse spooks or runsaway, your hand may be crushed, or you may bedragged and severely injured or killed. Loop theextra rope in a figure eight and hold the rope inthe center of the figure eight.

14.Avoid feeding treats since you may be trainingyour horse to push you or bite when looking forthe treat. If you feed your horsetreats, feed them from abucket or on the ground in astall or pasture. Do notfeed treats by hand. Yourhorse does not know thedifference between yourfingers and a treat!

15.Before you turn your horse loose, always leadyour horse completely through the gate or door-way. Then, turn your horse toward you or backtoward the gate or doorway BEFORE yourelease the horse. This method has less chance ofthe horse running off or kicking out its feet inyour direction. Make sure your horse does not pullout of its halter, but stands quietly while yourelease it. Have a preplanned escape route in caseof an emergency.

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SECTION F: Saddling and Bridling

1.Saddle your horse before you put on the bridle.Keep your horse tied or have a helper hold thehorse to keep it under control when saddling.If you are working alone, it is safest to keep ahorse tied while saddling.

2.Before saddling, check the saddle pad and saddlearea of the horse. Make sure both are clean andfree from any objects (i.e., burrs or dirt) that maycause the horse to buck or cause saddle sores.

3.Place the saddle pad slightly in front of thehorse’s withers. Slowly and deliberately, swing thesaddle onto the horse, being careful not to startlethe horse. Do not drop the saddle onto the horse’sback, which will cause pain or injury. Slide thesaddle and pad backward into position. This willensure that the hair is smooth and laying in theright direction. The saddle should be placed so thatit does not pinch the horse’s withers or shoulders.

4.When using a double-rigged Western saddle,always fasten the front cinch first, then the rearcinch, and finally, fasten accessory straps (breastcollars, martingales, etc.). When unsaddling,reverse the order by always unfastening the acces-sory straps first, then rear cinch, and finally, thefront cinch.

5.The girth should be placed so that it does notpinch the skin behind the horse’s elbow. Check thetightness of the girth by sliding two fingersunder the girth in the middle of the horse’s belly.Insert your fingers from the back to the front tokeep the hair smooth. The girth should fit snuglyto prevent the saddle from slipping, yet not betoo tight and irritatethe horse. Checkyour girth at leastthree times: beforemounting, aftermounting,and then 10 to 15minutes into the ride.

6.Always untie your horse before you put onthe bridle. After untying, remove the halter andrefasten it around your horse’s neck or loop thelead rope around the neck to control your horse.

7.Do not stand directly in front of your horsewhen bridling. Stand close, just behind and toone side of the horse’s head (usually the left side).Face the same direction as the horse and neverstand with your head over the horse’s head. In thecorrect position, you can safely control the horseand avoid getting hit with the horse’s head or runover if the horse moves forward. Keep your feetaway from the horse’s feet to avoid getting steppedon while bridling.

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8.Be careful not to bang your horse’steeth with the bit when bridling orunbridling. When bridling, insert oneor two fingers into the corner of themouth (where there are no teeth)to get the horse to open its mouthto insert the bit. When unbri-dling, stand in the same positionas when bridling. Slide thecrown piece off of the polland hold it until the horseopens its mouth beforelowering the bit. This willprevent banging the bitagainst the horse’s teeth.

9.After bridling, you should be able to fit two tothree fingers width between your horse’s throatand the throatlatch.

10.After bridling, you should be able to fit one fingerunder the noseband and one or two fingers underthe curb strap. The noseband and curb strapshould fit snugly to control the horse, but not tootight as to cause the horse discomfort.

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SECTION G: Riding

1.Before mounting your horse, first check thetightness of the girth. The girth should be snugbut not too tight. Take the reins in your left handand place them on the horse’s neck. Facing therear of the horse, grasp the stirrup with your righthand and turn it toward you. Place your left foot inthe stirrup and make a three-hop pivot, resultingin you standing up in the left stirrup with your toefacing forward. You may use your right hand tofirmly grasp the saddle as you mount. Gentlyswing your right leg over the horse’s back and sitdown softly and quietly. Check the length of yourstirrups and be sure your reins are not twisted ortangled.

2.Do not mount your horse inside a barn or areawith a low ceiling. Do not mount your horse whileit is tied. The horse may move or pull back afteryou mount even if it usually stands tied quietly.

3. Ask your horse to stand still for several secondsafter you mount. Keep contact on the horse’smouth with the reins. Do not let your horse walkoff until you ask him to move.

4.When dismounting, first stop your horse. Holdthe reins in your left hand and place them on thehorse’s neck. Drop both stirrups, swing your rightleg over the horse and slide down to the ground.Do not leave your left foot in the stirrup. If yourhorse moves off, you will have to hop on one footor possibly be dragged.

5.After dismounting, immediately take the reinsover your horse’s head or grasp both reins(if using split reins) and prepare to lead yourhorse. Lead the horse, being careful not to wrapthe reins around your hands or arm.

6.If you are riding English, you should run up yourstirrups immediately after dismounting.

7.When passing another horse, allow plenty of roomso that you do not crowd the other horse or causeit to break gait. Keep a safe distance betweenhorses to avoid being kicked, although this may bedifficult in a crowded show ring. A good rule ofthumb to use is approximately one horse length or10 to 12 feet between horses. If you can’t see thehind feet of the horse in front of you when lookingbetween your horse’s ears, you are too close!

8.A skills test should be required before you ridewithout adult supervision or go out on the trail.Have your instructor or an experienced riderdetermine if you can control your horse beforeyou ride in open spaces. You should be able toguide, control, stop your horse,and execute an emergencydismount before you ridewithout supervision.

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9.Halters and lead ropes are important to carry incase of an emergency on the trail. You will needthem for tying your horse on the trail. If your reinsshould break, you will have something to use forthe ride home and will have an alternate way tocontrol your horse.

10.At least one experienced rider and horse shouldalways accompany a novice horse or rider on trailrides. When riding in a group, there should beexperienced riders in the front, middle, and rear ofthe group. It is important to keep in mind theabilities of all of the horses and riders in thegroup. You should always ride at a speed that issafe and comfortable for the least experiencedrider and/or least trained horse.

11.Never trail ride alone. Try to use the buddysystem. If you need to ride alone, be sure someoneknows the approximate route you are taking andwhen you are planning to return.

12.To emergency dismount, first kick your feet outof both stirrups. Place the reins up on the horse’sneck. Vault off of your horse, pushing up, out, andaway as you go. You should land on both feetfacing the direction your horse is going. Practicethis from both sides of your horse in a controlledsituation. Never try to hold on to the reins in anemergency. You can catch the horse later!

13.Your horse should be trained to respond to“whoa” and a gentle pressure or backward pullon the bit to stop. Use a tension and releasemotion if you do not get an immediate response.If your horse begins to go faster than you like,shorten, pull, and release the reins. Sit deeply inthe saddle with your heels firmly down. In a run-away situation, it may be necessary to turn yourhorse’s head toward you by putting pressure ononly one rein. In a worst-case scenario, use youremergency dismount technique. Remember yoursafety comes first. Do not put yourself in a situa-tion where you will be dragged. If your horse isstill running after you have dismounted, let go!If you find yourself in this situation, you and yourhorse need more training BEFORE you go out onthe trail or ride in the ring again. Practice safestopping and emergency dismount methods withyour project helper or instructor.

14.If you trail ride in popular hunting locations,DO NOT RIDE there during the hunting season.Even when you are riding on your own propertyduring hunting season, wear orange reflectiveclothing and add some reflective attire to yourhorse as well.

15.When riding behind another horse on the trailor in the ring, you should be able to see the feetof the horse in front of you between your ownhorse’s ears. If you cannot, YOU ARE TOOCLOSE!

Notes:

Prepared by Patricia M. Comerford, extension horse specialist; Brian Egan, equine extension assistant; andDeb Webb, former extension staff.

Visit Penn State’s College of Agricultural Sciences on the Web: http://www.cas.psu.edu

Penn State College of Agricultural Sciences research, extension, and resident education programs are funded in part by Pennsylvania counties,the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work, Acts of Congress May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department ofAgriculture and the Pennsylvania Legislature. T. R. Alter, Director of Cooperative Extension, The Pennsylvania State University.

This publication is available in alternative media on request.

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