personal care ingredients -...

Personal Care Ingredients

Technical Information

December 2009Supersedes issue dated February 2009

04_080302e-01/ of 36

Luvigel® Advanced

® = Registered trademark of BASF group Multifunctional, cross-linked cationic rheology modifier for hair styling formulations

Chemical description Copolymer of Vinylpyrrolidone, Vinylimidazol, 3-Methyl-1-Vinylimidazolium chloride and Methacrylic acid; cross-linked

Structural formula

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INCI Name Polyquaternium-86

CAS-No. 935522-29-5

PRD-No. 30398397

Physicochemical propertiesAppearance White to slightly yellowish, fine powder

Odor Characteristic; almost odourless

Solubility Luvigel Advanced is swellable in water and water/ethanolic mixtures up to 15% ethanol. If Luvigel Advanced is used alone (without the addition of fixatives like PVP-based polymers) slightly turbid to turbid gels or other formulas are achieved. However, if 1.5 – 6% solids of e.g. Luviskol® K 90, Luviskol K 30 or Luviskol VA 64/VA 73 (PVP-, VP/VA-based polymers) are added to 0.5 – 3% solids of Luvigel Advanced crystal clear to almost clear gels can be produced (transmission: > 90%).

- Viscosity: 25000 – 30000 mPa·s(1% Luvigel Advanced + 2.5% Luviskol K 90)

- pH: 4.0 – 7.0 (1% Luvigel Advanced + 2.5% Luviskol K 90) Recommended pH: 5 – 6

Glass transition temperature The glass transition temperature is approximately 150 – 155 °C (according to DSC measurement)

Product description Luvigel Advanced is a multifunctional, cross-linked, cationic VP/VI/acrylate-based thickener with additional styling and conditioning properties. It is offered in powder form but disperses easily, does not require neutralization or heat and simply thickens on agitation. An economical “one-vessel” production step can be used with Luvigel Advanced. This decreases production time, simplifies production and reduces production costs significantly (recommended production process: see figure 4).Luvigel Advanced gives high efficiency thickening at low usage levels, plus substantivity to hair. It performs excellent at lower pH-levels (pH < 6), especially at physiological pH of 5 – 6. Luvigel Advanced – All in one: Thickening, setting, conditioning and exceptional sensory properties (see performance and application properties below).

04_080302e-01 December 2009 of 36 Luvigel Advanced

Performance properties

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Application properties

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Luvigel Advanced provides many advantages in hair styling formulations e.g. gels, wax gels, cream gels, waxes, fudges, muds in comparison to conventional thickeners and rheology modifiers.


Main advantages Enhanced, strong setting and flexibility with additional benefits: - Enduring long-lasting hold with high curl retention, even at high humidity - Outstanding care properties with excellent combing and (re)-stylability - Unique sensory properties, creamy texture: improved and pleasant hair feel - No neutralization necessary - Thickening at low pH-values - Physiological pH 5 – 6 achievable without neutralization - Low tack during & after drying - Clear gels with less flaking - Improved dissolution time, good cold water dispersability - Economical “one-vessel” production /reduced processing time

Spidernet diagram 1 and 2: Luvigel Advanced + PVP K 90 ver-sus conventional thickeners + PVP K 90

The beneficial properties of Luvigel Advanced compared to conventional thickeners can be seen in the spidernet diagrams 1 and 2.

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Spidernet diagram 1: Comparison of Luvigel Advanced with conventional thickeners (e.g. Carbomer 940/980; Hydroxyethylcellulose; Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) in styling gel formulations


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Spidernet diagram 2: Comparison of Luvigel Advanced with conventional thickeners (e.g. Polyquaternium-37; Acrylic acid/VP Crosspolymer; Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) in styling gel formulations

Technical propertiesGeneral information Luvigel Advanced is a multifunctional cationic thickener with outstanding setting

and care properties. Its cationic chemistry has been designed to combine efficient thickening, outstanding setting, long lasting hold with excellent humidity resistance and substantivity to hair and skin resulting in excellent sensory properties. In combination with PVP- and VP/VA-Copolymers Luvigel Advanced acts as a booster for setting properties compared to combinations of Carbomer-type thickeners and PVP-polymers. In addition, it improves the overall performance of hair styling formulations (gels, pump gels, mousses, waxes, wax gels, cream waxes, fudges muds etc.) regarding humidity resistance/low tack, and creamy texture. Luvigel Advanced has a yield point and improves the spreadability of styling formulas on the hair. It gives hair shine and a soft, smooth, silky and very agreeable feel. Luvigel Advanced offers good re-stylability after wetting the hair with water. Clear formulations of Luvigel Advanced and PVP-based polymers can be achieved with transmission values (@ 600 nm) between 90% and 99% (with exceptional high transparency).

Functionality:

How does Luvigel Advanced work? Luvigel Advanced is a tailor-made polymer and has the following functionality which is dependent from the content and ratio of the monomers: - Vinylpyrolidone (VP) provides excellent water solubility and compatibility with

PVP-, VP/VA-based polymers - Methacrylic acid (MA) gives extreme setting, “crunchy” hold and no tack

- Vinylimidazol (VI) achieves high setting effect together with the high molecular weight (> 1 Mio) of the cross-linked polymer with some elasticity.

- Quaternized Vinylimidazol (QVI) provides care effect in combination with setting effect due to its high affinity to the hair (figure 1).


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Figure 1: The functionality of Luvigel Advanced. The mechanism of a tailor-made polymer

Recommended use level / polymer concentration

Luvigel Advanced provides extreme shear-thinning rheology with yield point and is recommended in hair styling formulations (gels, pump gels, mousses, waxes, gel waxes, wax creams, cream gels, fudges, mod’s and others) in concentrations of about 0.5% to 2.0% solids (brookfield viscosity: 5000 – 45000 mPa·s). The mostly preferred use should be 0.8 to 1.5% solids (brookfield viscosity: 15000 – 35000 mPa·s). A further addition up to 3.0% solids rises the viscosity up to about 60000 mPa·s (figure 2).

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Figure 2: Luvigel Advanced: Polymer concentration versus viscosity (pH: 5 – 6)

When PVP- and/or VP/VA-Copolymers are added to Luvigel Advanced thickening of styling formulas (e.g. gels and gel-based products) is increased synergistically (figure 3). This thickening/viscosity increase with PVP-based polymers is higher in Luvigel Advanced than in Carbomer.


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Figure 3: X% Luvigel Advanced + 3% Luviskol K 90: Thickener concentration versus viscosity (pH: 5 – 6)

With the above recommended use levels of Luvigel Advanced and combinations especially with PVP-based polymers (like Luviskol K- and Luviskol VA-grades) at relatively low values (e.g. 2 – 3% solids Luviskol K 90) an outstanding synergistic ultra strong setting can be achieved. The addition of suitable additives like panthenol, glycerin, propylene glycol, silicones allows for more formulation flexibility and can meet different setting trends (e.g. from extreme crunchy, ultra strong hold to crunchy, more flexible hold with shine properties).

No neutralization, quick dissolution time, fast production process

Luvigel Advanced needs no neutralization. Thanks to its small particle size distribution Luvigel Advanced has an outstanding short dissolution time without any “pre-swelling” time which is needed for e.g. Carbomer, Hydroxyethylcellulose and most anionic thickeners. This is a real production advantage because a fast “one-vessel” pro-duction can be used (figure 4; recommended production: see also page 19).

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Figure 4: Luvigel Advanced versus common market thickeners Dissolution/production time (gel; 0.5 – 1% thickener; solids; Becomixer)

pH-value versus viscosity Luvigel Advanced was designed for hair styling formulations. It was specifically developed for clear gel formulations in combination with PVP-based polymers over a broad pH-range. The maximum thickening effect is achieved at physiological pH-values between 5 and 6 (figure 5).


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Figure 5: Luvigel Advanced: pH-value versus viscosity1% Luvigel Advanced / 1 – 2% Luvigel Advanced + 2.5% Luviskol K 90

When Luvigel Advanced is used directly in water a physiological pH of 5 – 6 is achieved without any pH-adjustment. Therefore a pH of 5 – 6 is recommended for Luvigel Advanced. If it is necessary to adjust a pH below or above 5 – 6, citric acid is recommended below pH 5 and triethanolamine above pH 5 (figure 5). Luvigel Advanced has an increased viscosity at low pH-values (pH < 6.5) where Carbomer has a significant drop of viscosity below pH < 6.5 (figure 6).

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Figure 6: Luvigel Advanced versus Carbomer.Thickening at low pH-values. pH-value versus viscosity of a 0.5%/1% aqueous solution

Luvigel Advanced offers a real thickening advantage to Carbomer and other anionic thickeners (e.g. Acrylic Acid/VP Crosspolymer; Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer; Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) at pH-values between 3 – 6.5.

Setting Luvigel Advanced provides a booster effect for setting properties when it is formulated with PVP-, VP/VA-polymers. Because Luvigel Advanced is a cationic polymer it can therefore completely replace the function of a cationic polymer in a gel formulation for conditioning (manageability, re-stylability combability) and offers sensory benefits besides a “care effect”. The setting power of hair styling formulations (especially gels, pump gels and other gel-based products) containing Luvigel Advanced and Luviskol K- and/or Luviskol VA-grades (PVP- and/or VP/VA-copolymers) is superior to that of most other used mixtures of thickeners and fixative polymers available on the market (figures 7 – 9).


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Figure 7: Setting properties of styling gel formulations with Luviskol K 90 65% r.h.; 3.5% polymer (thickener + Luviskol K 90)

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Figure 8: Setting properties of styling gel formulations with Luviskol VA 6465% r.h.; 3.5% polymer (thickener + Luviskol VA 64)

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Figure 9: Setting properties of styling gel formulations with Luviskol K 3065% r.h.; 3.5% polymer (thickener + Luviskol K 30)


Gels with Luvigel Advanced exhibit better setting properties at the same polymer level or with Luvigel Advanced the same setting can be achieved with less fixative polymers (e.g. PVP-, VP/VA-based resins) which leads to formulation advantages (figures 10 – 14). Hair gels with Luvigel Advanced provide more setting without sacrificing care benefits (figure 10).

Thickener (%) Setting Polymer (%)

Viscositiy (Pas)

Appearance Stiffness (cN) Stiffness/Sensory test (rating 1 – 3) 1 = best

Carbomer 940/980 0.5%

K 90 3.0% 40 Almost clear 129 ± 13 2

Carbomer 940/980 0.5%

K 90 2.5% PQ 11 0.5%

28 Almost clear 92 ± 15 2

Luvigel Advanced 1%

K 90 2.5% 28 Clear 210 ± 14 1

Luvigel Advanced 1%

K 90 1.5% 26 Clear 127 ± 17 2

Performance advantageMuch better setting at same polymer content

Cost advantage Same setting at lower polymer content

Figure 10: Setting performance of Luvigel Advanced in hair styling gels

Luvigel Advances provides same setting in gels with less Luviskol K 30 (PVP K 30): 1.5% to 2% less K 30 needed or Luvigel Advanced provides much better setting at same polymer concentration of Luviskol K 30 (about 30% setting increase can be achieved with Luvigel Advanced compared to standard Carbomer gels with 5% solids of K 30). Figures 11 and 12.

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Figure 11: Luvigel Advanced provides same setting in gels with less Luviskol K 30 (1.5% to 2% less K 30 needed)


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Figure 12: Luvigel Advanced provides much better setting at same polymer concentration of Luviskol K 30 (about 30% higher setting compared to standard Carbomer gels with 5% solids K 30)

Luvigel Advanced provides much better setting at the same polymer con cen-tration of Luviskol VA 64 (VP/VA 64). At 4% solids of VP/VA 64 in Carbomer about 2 – 3% less Luviskol VA 64 can be used in Luvigel Advanded gels for the same setting. A delta at 150 cN and higher cannot be determind for Carbomer gels because setting of Carbomer gels with VP/VA 64 is limited. At 4 – 5% solids of VP/VA 64 about 100% higher setting can be achieved with Luvigel Advanced compared to standard Carbomer gels including VP/VA 64 (figure 13).

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Figure 13: Luvigel Advanced provides much better setting at same polymer concentration of Luviskol VA 64

Luvigel Advanced provides same setting in gels with less Luviskol K 90 (PVP K 90): 1.5% to 2% less PVP K 90 needed or Luvigel Advanced provides better setting at the same polymer concentration of PVP K 90 (about 40% setting improvement can be achieved with Luvigel Advanced + PVP K 90 compared to standard Carbomer gels with 3 – 5% solids of PVP K 90); figure 14.


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Figure 14: Luvigel Advanced provides same setting in gels with less Luviskol K 90 and much better setting at same polymer concentration of Luviskol K 90

In addition to the above mentioned objective bending/stiffness tests the improved hold/setting of Luvigel Advanced and PVP-based polymers compared to common market thickeners was also confirmed by a panel tests (figure 25 and 26).

Curl retention High curl retention is a must for long lasting hold even at exposure to high humidity. Luvigel Advanced performes best in combination with PVP- and VP/VA-based polymers (figures 15 – 17). In these figures it is pointed out that Luvigel Advanced has significant advantages in a very long lasting hold and keep the hair-style stable over minimum 24 hours even in high humidity of 90% r. h. at 25 °C.

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Figure 15: Curl retention of styling gel formulations with Luviskol K 9090% .r.h.; 25 °C; 24h; 3.5% polymer (thickener + Luviskol K 90)


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Figure 16: Curl retention of styling gel formulations with Luviskol VA 6490% .r.h.; 25 °C; 24h; 3.5% polymer (thickener + Luviskol VA 64)

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Figure 17: Curl retention of styling gel formulations with Luviskol K 3090% .r.h.; 25 °C; 24h; 3.5% polymer (thickener + Luviskol K 30)

Luvigel Advanced shows 15 – 45% significant higher curl retention to thickeners 1, 3, 4, 5, and 6. The same curl retention of Luvigel Advanced can be achieved with thickener 2. However, thickener 2 has less sensorial properties (like combing, feel), higher flaking and less re-stylability; spidernet diagram 1 and 2).

“Care effect”/Combability/ Managability of hair

Consumers primarily expect strong hold in hair styling products (especially in hair gels). Their hair should be easy to comb during the styling process (wet stage) but also after drying when re-stylability/re-shapeability is required. Due to its cationic character Luvigel Advanced provides “all in one”: thickening, styling and “care effect” with outstanding combability and re-stylability at a glance (figures 18 – 20). Because Luvigel Advanced itself provides conditioning properties it is not necessary to add other cationic polymers to formulations. This offers a cost advantage and achieves an exceptional cost performance-ratio for cosmetic formulators compared to conventional thickeners and conventional thickener/fixative combinations available onto the market.


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Figure 18: Combability/Managability of styling gel formulations with Luviskol K 9065% r.h.; 20 °C; 3.5% polymer (thickener + Luviskol K 90)

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Figure 19: Combability/Managability of styling gel formulations with Luviskol VA 6465% r.h.; 20 °C; 3.5% polymer (thickener + Luviskol VA 64)

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Figure 20: Combability/Managability of styling gel formulations with Luviskol K 3065% r.h.; 20 °C; 3.5% polymer (thickener + Luviskol K 30)


The sensory properties of Luvigel Advanced like feel, combing and creamy texture can be increased by lowering the pH from 7 to 4 because the cationic charge increases by reducing the pH. Cationic charge: pH 7 = 0,8 meq/g; pH 5.5 = 1.0 meq/g; pH 4.0 = 1.2 meq/g. As seen in figures 18 – 20 Luvigel Advanced achieves with PVP-based setting polymers better conditioning/compability/“care effect“ and improved re-styleability of wet hair compared to thickeners 1, 2, 4, 5 and 6 (Carbomer 940/980, Hydro-xyethylcellulose, Acrylic acid/VP Crosspolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 alkylacrylate Crosspolymer and Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) with PVP-based polymers. Thickener 3 achieved comparable conditioning/combability to Luvigel Advanced but with less re-stylability property (spidernet diagram 2).

No/low tacky feel during and after drying

The high amount of water especially in gel and mousse formulations and the typical chemical characteristic of Carbomer/polyacrylic acid, cellulose- and guar-based thickeners lies to a negative, very tacky feel during and after drying time.Formulations based on Luvigel Advanced reduce impressively the tacky feel on the hair. It provides moreover additional benefits like a pleasant and “soft-creamy” feel to the hair and skin without compromising to achieve an ultra strong setting with long-lasting hold (figures 21 – 23).

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Figure 21: Tackiness of styling gel formulations with Luviskol K 9090% r.h.; 25 °C; 3.5% polymer (thickener + Luviskol K 90)

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Figure 22: Tackiness of styling gel formulations with Luviskol VA 6490% r.h.; 25 °C; 3.5% polymer (thickener + Luviskol VA 64)


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Figure 23: Tackiness of styling gel formulations with Luviskol K 30 90% r.h.; 25 °C; 3.5% polymer (thickener + Luviskol K 30)

Figures 21 – 23 demonstrate that Luvigel Advanced gel formulations with PVP-, VP/VA-based setting polymers are less tacky after drying compared to tested common market thickeners. Also during the drying phase gel formulas with Luvigel Advanced and PVP-based polymers achieve less tack demonstrated by a Diastron tack tester (figure 24) and in sensorial tests (see panel test below).

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Figure 24: Luvigel Advanced versus Carbomer: Tack during drying phase Diastron tack tester; 90% r.h.; 25 °C

Luvigel Advanced shows less tackiness during drying time of hair styling gels compared to Carbomer gels.

Panel test Luvigel Advanced is a multifunctional cationic thickener with outstanding characteristics. It is much more than a thickener and provides: - Ultra strong setting (even with PVP- and VP/VA-based polymers), - Exceptional long lasting hold, - Additional conditioning properties with - Outstanding sensory characteristic: pleasant, silky, creamy feel. All these benefits could be demonstated in a panel test/consumer test. This test and assessment was carried out during, as well as after drying of the two gel formulations confirming the tack findings above with the Diastron tack tester (during drying time) as well as with the Kempf tack tester (after drying time). A formulation with Luvigel Advanced (1%) + Luviskol K 90 (2.5%) was compared with a formulation including Carbomer (0.5%) + Luviskol K 90 (3.0%): Comparable total polymer content of 3.5% solids. Figures 25 and 26.


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Figure 25: Panel test: Styling gel with Luvigel Advanced versus CarbomerAssessment during drying of the gel

Excellent application properties like good spreadablity “easy to use” as well as a less tacky feel on the hair and an outstanding styling/modeling behaviour give hair styling formulations based on Luvigel Advanced and PVP-polymers an advantage to conventional Carbomer gels (figure 25).

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Figure 26: Panel test: Styling gel with Luvigel Advanced versus Carbomer Assessment after drying of the gel

In addition Luvigel Advanced styling gels give advantages also after application and drying in strong to mega strong setting, less flaking, less tacky feel, much better sensory properties/“care effect” and better re-styling compared to conventional Carbomer-based gels as well as other anionic thickener-based gels!

Rheological behavior/ Increased handling

Luvigel Advanced gels have a higher yield value and are more thixotropic compared to Carbomer gels. This is a result of the strong ionic interaction of the vinylpyrro-lidone and vinylimidazole moieties that break down by shearing. This directly relates to improved handling at application: Luvigel Advanced forms more stable gels on the hand and is easier to spread on hair (figure 27).


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Figure 27: Rheological behavior of gels based on Luvigel Advanced/Luviskol K 90 compared to Carbomer/Luviskol K 90

Polymer / fixative compatibility With Luvigel Advanced (1 – 2% solids) clear to almost clear hair gel formulations can be achieved when PVP- and/or VP/VA-based fixative polymers or combinations of PVP- and/or VP/VA-based polymers with cationic or non-ionic polymers like Luviquat Supreme, Luviquat PQ 11, Luviquat Hold, Luviset Clear, Luviskol Plus, PVP/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer and many other cationic and non-ionic resins in a ratio of 4 to 1 up to a ratio of 1 to 1 (PVP-based polymer : cationic and/or non-ionic polymer) are added. Homogeneous slightly turbid stable gel formulations can be produced when Poly quaternium-4 or PVP/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer without PVP-based polymers or mixtures of PVP-based polymers and anionic polymers (e.g. Luviset PUR, Luviset CA-grades, Luviflex Soft, VP/Acrylates/Laurylmethacrylate Copolymer, PVP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, AMP-Acrylates/Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer,Methacrylic Acid/Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer, Polyacrylate-14, Vinyl Caprolactam/PVP/Dimethyl-aminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Polyimide-1, Acrylates/Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/C1-2 Succinates/Hydroxyacrylates Copolymer and many other anionic polymers) are combined with about 1 – 2% Luvigel Advanced. Luvigel Advanced is a cationic polymer, mixtures with anionic polymers can lead to incompatibilities such as clouding and sedimentation and need to be tested carefully. The addition of PVP (e.g. Luviskol K 90, K 30) on VP/VA based polymers (e.g. Luviskol VA 64/73) results in more stable formulations.

Compatibility with solvents/additives

Luvigel Advanced has excellent compatibility with many common solvents and additives used in hair gel formulations. Almost clear to clear gels can be produced e.g. with ethanol (up to 15%), glycerin (up to 5%), propylene glycol (up to 5%), sorbitol, panthenol, Pluracare E 400, Pluracare E 1500 and other grades, Abil 8843, Uvinul P 25, Uvinul MC 80, Niacinamide many other vitamins and many other additives. Under the special characteristic of each formula, additives and solvents which are added must be tested about their compatibility in such a formulation.

Thickener compatibility On the basis of the cationic characteristic of Luvigel Advanced, mixtures conventional anionic thickeners (e.g. Carbomer 940/980, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Cross-polymer, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer and many other anionic thickeners) lead to incompatibilities such as clouding and sedimentation. Many cationic and non-ionic conventional rheology modifiers (e.g. Polyquaternium-37, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Guar and others) give stable and homogeneous, but slightly cloudy gels including PVP-based polymers.


Competitor polymers tested: Thickener 1: Carbomer 940/980 Thickener 2: Hydroxyethylcellulose Thickener 3: Polyquaternium-37 Thickener 4: Acrylic Acid/VP Crosspolymer Thickener 5: Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Thickener 6: Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer

Recommendation for gel production “One-vessel” production

Luvigel Advanced enables flexible processing and gives advantages to production with Carbomer and many other anionic thickeners as well as Hydroxy ethyl cellulose (figure 4): - “One vessel”- production- Fast dissolution- No neutralization- No (pre)-swelling time- Flexible addition to the formulation process- Cold/warm water process possible

Luvigel Advanced offers the possibility to produce hair styling formulations (gels, mousses, waxes, wax gels, wax creams, fudges, muds a.o.) only in “one vessel” because no neutralisation and no (pre)-swelling time is needed which leads to a reduced production time for the formulator (half to one third of the “Carbomer-production” process time). In addition for Luvigel Advanced the same production facilities/equipment can be used as needed for the conventional “Carbomer-process”. The following production recommendation can be given: Solubilize the perfume with common solubilizers (e.g. Cremophor CO 40) in water, weigh and mix all desired components homogenously (e.g. fixatives: PVP-, VP/VA-based polymers and/or setting polymers mentioned in section “polymer/fixative compatibility”; page 18, all additives: panthenol, glycerin, propylene glycol, vitamins, preservative(s) (see section: “compatibilities with additives”, page 18) and add during this process or at the end Luvigel Advanced portionwise or continuously under stirring until a homogenous mixture is received (normal range: 0.25 – 1.0 hour; depending on the production facility, vessel and stirrer characteristic). Attention: When a homogenizer is used (e.g. in a Becomixer) this should be done very carefully to avoid viscosity drop of the gel (Luvigel Advanced can be shear sensitive under extreme homogenizing).

Examples of formulations


EU Clear Performance Hair Gel No. 04/00199

% Ingredients Supplier INCI name

A q.s. Cremophor® CO 40 (1) PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

q.s. Perfume Fragrance

86.00 Water dem. Aqua

B 12.50 Luviskol® K 90 Solution

(1) PVP

0.50 Euxyl PE 9010 (42) Phenoxyethanol,Ethylhexylglycerin

C 1.00 Luvigel® Advanced (1) Polyquaternium-86

Production: Solubilize the components of phase A. Weight the components of phase B into phase A and stir till homogenous.Stir phase C into the solution of the combined pha-ses A + B.

Measure values: Viscosity: 26,600 mPa·s Brookfield RVD VII+pH value: 5.4Stiffness-test: 180cNCurl-Retention: 95%Combing-force-reduction: 67%Transmission (600 nm): 97%


Re-Styler Hair Gel No. 04/00200


A 0.30 Cremophor® CO 40 (1) PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

0.10 Perfume* Fragrance



(1) PVP

5.00 Luviset® Clear (1) VP/Methacrylamide/N-VinylImidazole Copolymer

0.50 Euxyl PE 9010 (42) Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

0.66 D-Panthenol 75 W (1) Panthenol


Production: Solubilize the components of phase A. Weight the components of phase B into phase A and stir till homogenous.Stir phase C into the solution of the combined phases A + B.

Measure values: Viscosity: 17,800 mPa·s Brookfield RVD VII+pH value: 5.9Transmission (600 nm): 92.0

* e.g. Lisa (Drom); allergene free or Blue Sea (Bell Flavors & Fragrances)

Style & Care Hair Gel No. 04/00203






(1) PVP

5.00 Luviquat® Supreme (1) Polyquaternium-68

0.50 Euxyl PE 9010 (42) Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin





* e.g. Lisa (Drom); allergene free or Response (Bell Flavors & Fragrances)


Natural Hold Hair Gel No. 04/00205



0.10 Perfume Fragrance



(1) PVP

2.50 Luviquat® PQ 11 PN (1) Polyquaternium-11






Styling Hair Gel No. 04/00206





B 6.00 Luviskol® VA 64 W (1) PVP/VA Copolymer

2.50 Luviquat® Hold (1) Polyquaternium-46






Styling Hair Gel No. 04/00209






(1) PVP

3.00 1,2 Propylenglykol Care

(1) Propylenglykol






Hairgel with Luvigel® Advanced, Luviskol® K 90 and Luviskol K 30

No. 04/00218


A 0.10 Perfume Fragrance

0.40 Cremophor® CO 40 (1) PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

76.33 Water dem. Aqua dem.

B 0.50 Euxyl PE 9010 (42) Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

15.00 Luviskol K 90 Solution

(1) PVP


(1) PVP

C 1.00 Luvigel Advanced (1) Polyquaternium-86

Production: Solubilize the components of phase A.Weigh the components of phase B into phase A and stir till homogenous.Stir phase C into solution of the combined phases A + B.

Measure values: pH value: 5.5 Viscosity: 17,950 mPa·s Brookfield RVT


Hairgel with Luvigel® Advanced and Luviskol® K 90 with additives

No.04/00219







(1) PVP

0.25 Pluracare® E 400 (1) PEG-8

0.25 D-Panthenol USP (1) Panthenol

10.00 Ethanol 96% Alcohol


Production: Solubilize the components of phase A.Weigh the components of phase B into phase A and stir till homogeneous.Stir phase C into the solution of the combined pha-ses A + B.

Measure values: Viscosity: 14000 mPa·s Brookfield RVTpH value: 5.2

Hairgel with Luvigel® Advanced and Luviskol® K 90 with additives

No.04/00220







(1) PVP

5.00 1,2 Propylene Glycol Care

(1) Propylene Glycol

5.00 Glycerin 87% (20) Glycerin

2.50 Karion F liquid (20) Sorbitol


Production: Solubilize the components of phase A.Weigh the components of phase B into phase A and stir till homogeneous.Stir phase C into the solution of the combined pha-ses A + B.

Measure values: pH value: 5.3 Viscosity: 28.000 mPa·s Brookfield RVT


Hairgel with Luvigel® Advanced, Natrosol 250 HR and Luviskol® K 90

No.04/00221







(1) PVP

0.50 D-Panthenol USP (1) Panthenol

C 0.50 Natrosol 250 HR (4) Hydroxyethylcellulose

D 0.75 Luvigel Advanced (1) Polyquaternium-86

Production: Solubilize the components of phase A.Weigh the components of phase B into phase A and stir till homogeneous.Stir phase C into the solution of the combined pha-ses A + B.Add phase D to the combined phases A + B + C and stir until homogeneous.

Measure values: pH value: 5.5 Viscosity: 39.350 mPa·s Brookfield RVT


Hair Matte Featuring Luvigel® Advanced No. 03/00136


A 65.00 Water dem. Aqua dem.

1.00 D-Panthenol 75 W (1a) Panthenol



0.50 DC 193C Fluid (16) PEG-12 Dimethicone

B 3.00 Cremophor® CO 40 (1a) PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

3.00 Cremophor A 6 (1a) Ceteareth-6 (and) Stearyl Alcohol

2.00 Beeswax Wax SP 75 (150) Bees Wax

1.00 Carnauba Wax SP 63 (150) Carnauba Wax

3.00 Ozokerite SP 1026 P (150) Ozokerite Wax

2.00 Protopet 1S (247) Petrolatum

C 15.00 Luviskol® K 90Solution

(1a) PVP

1.50 Luvigel Advanced (1a) Polyquaternium-86

D 0.10 Uvinul® A Plus B (1a) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (and) Diethylamino Hydroxyben-zoyl Hexyl Benzoate

0.50 Glydant Plus liquid (130) DMDM Hydantoin (and) Iodo-propynyl Butylcarbamate


Production: Mix ingredients of phase A until it is completely homogenous and heat to 75 °C to 85 °C.Pre-mix ingredients of phase B until homogeneous and heat to 75 °C to 85 °C.Add phase B into phase A and mix with high agitation for 30 minutes around 75 °C to 85 °C.Start cooling, at 60 °C add Luviskol K90. Continue mixing until homogeneous. Add Luvigel Advanced with adequate agitation and continue mixing until all lumps are properly dispersed. At 40 °C add the rest of the ingredients of phase D into the main vessel.

Measure values: Appearence: Opaque yellow paste with waxy texturepH value: 5.45 Viscosity: 83000 cps (Brookfield DVII RV6 at

10rpm for 60 sec)

Description: This styling paste offers strong hold with a matte finish for rugged style


Fiber Putty Featuring Luvigel® Advanced No. 03/00138



0.50 Rita PEO-18 (141) PEG 90M



B 3.00 Cremophor® CO 40 (1) PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

3.00 Cremophor A 25 (1) Ceteareth-25

1.00 Candelilla Wax SP 75 (150) Candelilla Wax

0.50 Carnauba Wax SP 63 (150) Carnauba Wax

3.00 Ozokerite SP 1026 P (150) Ozokerite Wax

1.00 Protopet 1S (247) Petrolatum

C 10.00 Luviskol® K 90 Solution (1) PVP

1.50 Luvigel Advanced (1) Polyquaternium-86

D 0.10 Uvinul® A Plus B (1) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (and) Diethylamino Hydroxy-benzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

0.50 Glydant Plus liquid (130) DMDM Hydantoin (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate


Production: Mix ingredients of phase A until it is completely homogenous and heat to 75 °C to 85 °C. Pre-mix ingredients of phase B until homogeneous and heat to 75 °C to 80 °C. Add phase B into phase A and mix with maximum agitation for 30 minutes around 75 °C.Start cooling and add ingredients of phase C into mixture of phase A + B and continue mixing at high agitation. Continue mixing with an anchor propeller and adequate agitation and start cooling to 40 °C. At 40 °C, add the rest of the ingredients of phase D.

Measure values: Appearence: Yellow cream with fibrous consistencypH value: 5.3Viscosity: 58,000 cps (Brookfield DVII RV6 at

10rpm for 60 sec)

Description: This formula is a styling cream with fibrous consi-stency offering medium hold and matte finish.


Glitzy Glaze Featuring Luvigel® Advanced and Luviquat® Supreme

No. 04/00228



5.00 Luviskol® K 90 Solution (1a) PVP

5.00 Luviquat Supreme (1a) Polyquaternium-68






0.05 Flamenco® Summit Gold Y30D

(1a) Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide

B 0.50 T-Maz 20 (1a) Polysorbate 20


Production: Add ingredients of phase A with adequate agitation. Continue mixing Luvigel Advanced at high agitation until all lumps are properly dispersed. Mix the components of phase B. Add phase B to phase A and stir until the mixture is homogenous. Add ingredients of phase A with adequate agitation.

Measure values: Appearence: Translucent gel with suspended pigmentpH value: 6.10Viscosity: 14,000 cps (Brookfield DVII RV6 at

10rpm for 60 sec)

Description: This styling glaze is a sparkly gel offering strong hold and excellent curl retention

Anti-Frizz Smoothing Gel Featuring Luvigel® Advanced and Luviquat® Sensation

No. 04/00229



1.50 Luviquat Sensation (1a) Polyquaternium-87









Production: Add ingredients of Phase A with adequate agitation. Continue mixing Luvigel Advanced until all lumps are properly dispersed. Pre-mix Phase B and heat to 40 °C to 45 °C and add into Phase A.

Measure values: Appearence: Translucent gelpH value: 5.80Viscosity: 10,800 cps (Brookfield DVII RV6 at

10rpm for 60 sec)

Description: This anti-frizz gel leaves your hair smooth and ma-nageable for healthier looking hair.


Smoothing Milk Featuring Luvigel® Advanced and Luviquat® Sensation

No. 03/00139



1.00 Luviquat Sensation (1a) Polyquaternium-87






2.00 Cremophor A 20 (1a) Ceteareth-20

1.50 Cremophor A 6 (1a) Ceteareth-6 Stearyl Alcohol

3.00 Dow Corning 245 Fluid

(16) Cyclopentasiloxane


(16) Phenyltrimethicone

0.25 Uvinul® MC 80 (1a) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

C 1.50 Luvigel Advanced (1a) Polyquaternium-86

D 0.50 Glydant Plus liquid (130) DMDM Hydantoin (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate


Production: Add ingredients of Phase A with adequate agitation and start heating to 70 °C to 75 °C.Pre-mix Phase B and heat to 70 °C to 75 °C and mix until all particles are dissolved. Add into ingre-dients of Phase A and mix with high agitation for 30 minutes.Start cooling to 60 °C to 65 °C and add Luvigel Advanced. Continue mixing Luvigel Advanced at high agitation until all lumps are properly dispersed.Continue cooling to 40 °C and add Phase D into the batch and continue mixing until homogeneous

Measure values: Appearence: White opaque gel consistencypH value: 5.90Viscosity: 20,000 cps (Brookfield DVII RV6 at

10rpm for 60 sec)

Description: This smoothing milk is an excellent cream that keeps your hair shiny and smooth.



Rinse-off conditioner No. 03/00142



0.05 Edeta® BD (1) Disodium EDTA

0.50 Luvigel® Advanced (1) Polyquaternium-86

B 3.00 Lanette O (27) Cetearyl Alcohol

2.00 Cremophor® A 6 (1) Ceteareth-6, Stearyl Alcohol

0.50 Cremophor A 20 (1) Ceteareth-20

1.00 Lanette 16 (27) Cetyl Alcohol

1.50 Luvitol® Lite (1) Hydrogenated Polyisobutene



C 0.50 D-Panthenol 75 W (1) Panthenol





Production: Add phase A into the water and heat to 75 – 80 °C, mix until completely dispersed.Mix phase B in a different vessel, heat to 75 – 80 °C and mix until all solid particles are completely dissolved.Add phase B into phase A and continue mixing at 70 – 75 °C with anchor propeller at high agitation for 15 minutes. Cool to 40 – 45 °C with high agitation. Once is cool switch to medium agitation.Add phase C at 30 °C, stir until homogenous.

Properties: Appearance: white opaquepH value: 5.5Viskosity: 22,000 cpss

(Brookfield DVII RV6 at 10 rpm for 60 sec)

Spray Styling Gel No. 04/00225


A 2.5 Luviskol® VA 64 P (1b) VP/VA Copolymer

2.0 Luviskol K 90 (1b) PVP



0.1 Edeta® BD (1b) Disodium EDTA

0.2 D-Panthenol USP (1b) Panthenol


(16b) PEG-12 Dimethicone

0.3 Germall Plus (65c) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate


B 0.4 Cremophor® CO 40 (1b) PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil


C 26.4 Water dem. Aqua dem.

1.1 Luvigel® Advanced (1b) Polyquaternium-86

Production: Mix phase C and stir until dissolved. Dissolve Luviskol VA64 and Luviskol K90 into the water, then add the rest part of phase A, stir until clear.Mix phase B until dissolved completely, then add to phase A, stir until clear. Add phase C to phase A + B, stir until clear gel formed.

Measure values: pH value: 6.0 (25 °C)Viscosity: 2,000 mPa·s (Brookfield RVD VII+

60 rpm, 25 °C)

Description: Long lasting setting effect, non tackiness, matt type hair styling wax. Luviset Clear provides strong setting effect and excellent curl retention. Luvigel Advanced provides thickening, smooth texture and additional setting effect.



Clear Hair Styling Gel No. 04/00226



4.0 Luviset® Clear (1b) VP/Methacrylamide/Vinylmida-zole Copolymer









B 43.2 Water dem. Aqua dem.


C q.s. Triethanolamine (1b) Triethanolamine

Production: Mix phase B and stir until dissolved, neutralize with phase C to pH around 7.Dissolve Luviskol VA 64P and Luviset Clear into the water, then add the rest part of phase A, stir until dissolved.Add the mixture of phase B + C to phase A, stir until clear gel formed.

Measure values: pH value: 7.3 (15 °C)Viscosity: 3,350 cp (Brookfield RVD VII+, 50 rpm

15.0 °C)

Description: Luviset Clear provides long lasting setting effect and good curl retention. Luvigel Advanced provides thickening, smooth texture and additional setting effect.


Hair Styling Gel with effect pigments No. 04/00227



1.5 Luviskol K 90 (1b) PVP









B 0.4 Cremophor® CO 40 (1b) PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil


C 43.2 Water dem. Aqua dem.


D 0.1 Timica® Extra Bright 1500

(1b) Mica (and) Titanum Dioxide

q.s. FD&C Blue No.1 (1b) C. I. 42090, FD&C Blue No. 1

Production: Dissolve Luviskol VA 64 P and Luviskol K 90 into the water, then add the rest part of phase A, stir until clear. Add phase B to phase A.Add phase C to phase A + B, stir until clear gel formed.Add phase D to the combined phases A + B + C and stir until homogeneous.

Measure values: pH value: 6.0 (25 °C)Viscosity: 13,000cps (Brookfield RVD VII+

50 rpm, 17.6 °C)

Description: Luvigel Advanced provides thickening, smooth texture and additional setting effect. Effect pigments provide sparkling and fashionable effect.

Suppliers


Hair Shine Gel Featuring Luvigel® Advanced No. 04/00230





(16) PEG-12 Dimethicone

1.50 Luvigel Advanced (1) Polyquaternium-86

0.50 Glydant Plus liquid (130) DMDM Hydantoin (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamat

B 5.00 Cremophor® CO 40 (1) PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil





0.25 Uvinul® A Plus B (1) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate


Production: Add ingredients of phase A with adequate agitation. Continue mixing Luvigel Advanced until all lumps are properly dispersed.Mix the components of phase B and heat to 40 °C to 45 °C. Add phase B to phase A and stir until the mixture is homogenous.

Measure values: pH value: 5.3Viscosity: 39,900cps (Brookfield DVII, RV6 at

10rpm for 60 sec)

Description: This translucent gel provides a wet and shiny look for healthier looking hair.

1. BASF SE67056 Ludwigshafen, GermanyTel.: +49(621) 60-0Fax: +49(621) 60-42525www.basf.com

1a. BASF Corporation100 Campus Drive, Florham Park NJ 07932, USATel.: +1(800) 526-1072Fax: +1(201) 426-2610www.basf.com

1b. BASF (China) Co., Ltd.239 Luqiao Road, Jinqiao Export Prozessing Zone, Pudong, Shanghai, ChinaTel.: +86 21 6109 1868Fax: +86 21 6109 1867www.basf.com

4. Hercules Inc., Aqualon Division1313 North Market Street, DE 19899 Wilmington, USATel.: +1(302) 594-5000Fax: +1(302) 594-6662www.amerchol.com

42. Schülke & Mayr GmbHRobert-Koch-Str. 2, 22851 Norderstedt, GermanyTel.: +49(40) 52100-0Fax: +49(40) 52100-238www.schuelke-mayr.com

16. Dow Corning Corporation2200 West Salzburg Road, MI 48686 Midland, USATel.: +1(517) 496-6000

+1(800) 248-2481Fax: +1(517) 496-6974www.dow.com

16b. Dow Corning (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.448 Eastern Avenue, Songjiang Industrial Zone, Shanghai, ChinaTel.: +86 21 5774 1161Fax: +86 21 5774 1162www.dow.com

27. Cognis Deutschland GmbH – Care ChemicalsHenkelstraße 67, 40191 Düsseldorf-Holthausen, GermanyTel.: +49(211) 7940-2289Fax: +49(211) 798-2016www.cognis.com

65c. ISP (Hong Kong) Ltd. Shanghai Representative OfficeRoom 702 Dynasty Business Center, 457 Wu Lu Mu Qi North Road, Shanghai, ChinaTel.: +86 21 6249 3900Fax: +86 21 6249 3908www.isocorp.com


130. Lonza, Inc.90 Boroline Road Allendale NJ 07401Tel.: +1(201) 316 9200Fax: +1(201) 785 9973

141. RITA CorporationP.O. Box 457 Crystal Lake IL 60039-0457Tel.: +1(815) 337-2500Fax: +1(815) 337-2522www.ritacorp.com

150. Strahl & Pitsch, Inc.230 Great East Neck Road, NY 11704 West Babylon, USATel.: +1(516) 587-9000Fax: +1(516) 587-9120www.strahlpitsch.com

247. Sonneborn, Inc., Refined Products771 Old Saw Mill River Road, Tarrytown NY 10591, USATel.: +1(914) 593 4136Fax: +1(914) 593 4137www.sonneborn.com

Storage / stability Luvigel Advanced can be stored in the unopened original containers for at least 24 months at max. 25 °C. After opening the original containers they must be closed/resealed very carefully to avoid any moisture uptake. This can lead to agglomeration, but what doesn’t influence negatively the performance properties of the product.

Toxicology An examination of the raw material did not indicate any health risks for the con-centrations used and the areas of applications. Also in combination with other products, the user has to carry out his own safety assessment of his product. Toxicological data can be provided under Secrecy Agreement.

Safety Data Sheet A safety data sheet is available for Luvigel Advanced.

Note This document, or any answers or information provided herein by BASF, does not constitute a legally binding obligation of BASF. While the descriptions, designs, data and information contained herein are presented in good faith and believed to be accurate, it is provided for your guidance only. Because many factors may affect processing or application/use, we recommend that you make tests to determine the suitability of a product for your particular purpose prior to use. It does not relieve our customers from the obligation to perform a full inspection of the products upon delivery or any other obligation. NO WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, ARE MADE REGARDING PRODUCTS DESCRIBED OR DESIGNS, DATA OR INFORMATION SET FORTH, OR THAT THE PRODUCTS, DESIGNS, DATA OR INFORMATION MAY BE USED WITHOUT INFRINGING THE INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY RIGHTS OF OTHERS. IN NO CASE SHALL THE DESCRIPTIONS, INFORMATION, DATA OR DESIGNS PROVIDED BE CONSIDERED A PART OF OUR TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF SALE. December 2009


BASF SE - Care Chemicals Division - Personal Care Ingredients - 67056 Ludwigshafen - www.beautycare.basf.com


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