PHOTO 1 STUDY GUIDERevised on 1/27/2016

Please review the TEST TAKING EXPECTATIONS:Once I start handing out the test – complete silence - is required. It will remain that way until I have verbally given EVERYONE the “okay” that you can talk. If you talk or make noise, I will deduct large amounts of points off of your test every time I have to ask you to be quiet. If it gets to the point where you are seriously disrupting the class, you will earn a zero on your test and be removed from the classroom.DO NOT ASK YOUR QUESTION OUT LOUD / DO NOT SAY THE ANSWER OUT LOUD.

If you have a question – WRITE YOUR QUESTION DOWN ON A PIECE OF SCRAP PAPER & RAISE YOUR HAND - I will come to you. We will communicate through writing. Saying the answer out loud is considered helping someone cheat. I will promptly remove you from the room. Besides an Administrative write-up and a phone call home to explain what you did, you will also earn a zero on your test along with the classmate(s) that you were helping cheat. As an added bonus, the entire class will also get points taken off for the question that you answered for them.

CHEATING – Nothing infuriates me more than a cheater – suck it up and accept your fate.QUADRUPLE THREAT Failure to remain quiet and/or cheating will result in a ZERO on your final exam You will also be physically removed from my classroom in less time than a heartbeat. I will place an immediate call to mom, dad, grandparent(s), older brother, sister, “cuz”, and/or guardian. Don’t you worry; I’ll go down that list until someone answers. If not, then I will hand it over to the office and they will find them. Consequences of my choosing will occur immediately (like the same day) such as an administrative write up, multiple detentions, community service, and of course, slander to your name/family for being disruptive and/or a cheater. Just because school is almost done for the semester or the year (even if it is the last day) doesn’t mean I can’t sign you up to do some hard time.

PHOTOGRAPHIC TOOL and SUPPLY VOCABULARY

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Agitate = To move a solution over the surface of film or paper during development so that fresh liquid comes into contact with the surface.

Agitation =The action of keeping the developer, stop bath, or fixer in a gentle, uniform motion while processing film or paper. It also helps to speed and achieve even development and prevent spotting or staining.

Lens Aperture

Baseboard

Bellows (focusing)

Camera = A picture taking device usually consisting of a light tight box, a film holder, a shutter to admit a measured quantity of light, and a lens to focus the image.

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Changing Bag = A light-tight black bag into which a photographer can insert his or her hands to handle film when a darkroom is not available. We use this to load roll film onto a reel so that the undeveloped film does not get ruined by the light.

Composition = The pleasing arrangement of the elements within a scene.

Condenser

Contact Printing = The process of placing a things such as a film negative, a paper negative, or a tape transfer negative in contact with sensitized material (usually paper) and then passing light through the negative onto the material for a certain amount of time. The resulting image, after developing it, is the same size as the negative.

Contrast = The difference in darkness or density between one tone and another. There are two types of contrast = low and high. A print with low contrast (AKA flat) has mostly grey tones in it with not a lot or any black or white tones (see Flat for a visual example). A print that is high contrast (AKA contrasty) has mostly black and white tones without any grey (see Contrasty for a visual example).

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Contrasty = Describes a scene, negative, or print with very great differences in brightness between light and dark areas. Opposite of Contrasty: Flat

Darkroom = A light tight area used for processing films and for printing and processing papers; also for loading and unloading film holders and some cameras.

Drying Rack = Used to dry prints after processing

Duct Tape = Usually grey in color and about 2 inches wide. Used to cover up any holes where light may leak in on your shoebox, when making your Shoebox Pinhole Camera.

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Electrical Tape = Usually black in color, can be reused several times, and is about ½ inch wide with a surface that is smooth and shiny. This tape is placed directly on top of the pinhole (located in your metal lens) on your Shoebox Pinhole Camera. It is considered to be the camera’s shutter, because it is used to block the light going through the pinhole. You control the time of exposure by peeling it off / sticking it back on to expose the paper inside.

Elevation Control

Emulsion = A light sensitive coating applied to photographic films or papers. It consists of silver halide crystals and other chemicals suspended in gelatin.

Enlarger = An optical instrument/piece of photo equipment ordinarily used to project an image of a negative onto sensitized paper when making a photo print. It can also be used as the light source to make a contact print while in the darkroom. Some of you also used this machine to project pictures onto the linoleum so you could trace them.

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Enlarger Head = Part of an enlarger = Contains the main working parts; light source, negative carrier, and lens. It can be moved up and down the supporting column to set the size of the image.

Film = The material used in a camera to record a photographic image.

Filter Holder

Fixer = A chemical solution that makes a photographic image insensitive to light and allows you to bring your print out of the darkroom into regular room light/daylight without it turning black. It dissolves unexposed silver halide crystals while leaving the developed silver image.

Location in darkroom: 3rd tray from the left in the sinkTime: 5 minutes

Focusing Control =

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Fog / Fogged = An overall density in the photographic image caused by unintentional exposure to light or unwanted chemical activity. NOTE: This is caused by you forgetting to put away the unexposed photo paper in the box and someone turns on the white lights or their phone) (I know who you are and I am going to charge you $$$)

Lamp

Latent Image = An image formed by the changes to the silver halide grains in photographic emulsion on exposure to light. The image is not visible until chemical development takes place.

Lens

Light Tight =Absolutely dark. Protected by opaque (can’t see through) material, overlapping panels, or by some other system through which light cannot pass.

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Metal Reel = A reel made out of metal with spiral grooves into which roll film is loaded for development.

Negative = Any image with tones that are the reverse of those in the subject. Opposite: Positive

Negative Carrier

Negative Film = The material used in a camera to record a photographic image.

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Packaging Tape = Usually about 2 inches wide and is clear. Used in your Environmental Tape-Transfer assignment to transfer ink from magazines to itself.

Paper Developer = A chemical solution that changes the invisible, image produced during exposure into a visible one. The name of paper developer that we use is called Dektol and is made by the company Kodak. (Latent = existing, but not yet developed; hidden; concealed)

Location in darkroom: 1st tray from the left in the sinkTime: 3 minutes Name: Dektol Brand: Kodak

Photographic Paper = Photographic paper is sensitive to light and should be handled only in a darkroom with the correct safelight. Black and white paper is exposed under an enlarger and processed in chemicals to create a final image.

Photogram = An image formed by placing material directly onto a sheet of sensitized printing paper and then exposing the paper to light.

Pinhole = The tiny opening (located in the middle the piece of metal we place and tape over the hole that we cut) in a pinhole camera that produces an image.

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Plastic Reel = A reel made out of plastic with spiral grooves into which roll film is loaded for development.

Positive = Any image with tones corresponding to those of the subject in real life. Opposite of Positive: negative.

Print = 1. A photographic image, a positive one if printed from a film negative onto photographic paper.

2. To produce such an image by contact printing from things such as a film negative, from paper (regular or photographic etc.), or from objects (photogram).

Print Washer = A device that circulates fresh water around prints to remove fixer during washing.

Processing Chemicals = The three basic chemicals are (1) Developer (2) Stop Bath and (3) Fixer. These chemicals are mixed with the appropriate amount of water and stored in airtight containers.

Contact Printing Frame / contact printer = A holder designed to keep sensitized material, usually paper, in full contact with things such as a film negative or a piece of photo paper (positive or negative) during contact printing. This piece of darkroom equipment has a glass or Plexiglas top to hold your negatives or paper flat/flush on the paper for contact printing. It is important to keep the glass clean and free of things such as smudges and fingerprints. Whatever is on the glass will show up in your

picture that you are printing.

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Processing Trays = The trays hold the processing solutions. The first tray is for the developer, the second for the stop bath, the third is for the fixer and the fourth is for the wash. Label the trays and always use the same tray for each solution. It is a good idea to get trays at least one size larger than the paper you are using. You also use a tray to hold the hot water and your Environmental Tape-Transfer when you are peeling off the paper.

Safe light = A light used in the darkroom during printing to provide general illumination without giving unwanted exposure. The safelight should be positioned to provide the best illumination of the work area, but should be kept at least four feet from the photographic paper. NOTE: Safelight filters or light bulbs come in a few different varieties. The most commonly used are OC (amber) and Red (A1).

Silver Halide = The light sensitive part of the common photographic emulsions; the compounds silver chloride, silver bromide, silver fluoride, and silver iodide.

Stop Bath = An acid solution used between the developer and the fixer to stop the action of the developer and to preserve the effectiveness of the fixer. Generally a dilute solution of acetic acid; plain water is sometimes used as a stop bath for film development, but the time has to be doubled to 1 minute.

Location in darkroom: 2nd tray from the left in the sinkTime: 30 seconds

Supporting Column = Supports the enlarger head out over the baseboard and serves as a rail on which you can move the enlarger head up or down on.

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Tank (metal) = A light tight container that is made out of metal for processing chemicals into which film on a metal reel is placed for development.

Tank (plastic) = A light tight container that is made out of plastic for processing chemicals into which film on a plastic reel is placed for development.

Tong or Tongs = These are used for moving the photographic paper through the processing solutions. You should have a set of four: one for developer, one for stop

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bath, one for fixer, and one for the final rinse. Label each one to avoid contaminating the chemicals.

Value = The relative lightness or darkness of an area.

Negative print (The opposite of real life)(Light is dark and dark is light)

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(This is also a picture taken with a shoebox pinhole camera)

Positive print (It looks like it would in real life)(This is also a picture taken with a shoebox pinhole camera)

What a picture looks like taken with a Shoebox Pinhole Camera (this is right outside my room looking down into the alley). The Picture is usually a negative and is not as sharp and in focus as a picture taken with a normal camera.

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Picture taken with a regular/normal camera

How to Make a Great Black And White PrintAll processing times listed are for chemicals kept at about 68 ° F. This is especially important for developer and fixer.

PROCESSING PRINTS (RC Photographic Paper)Developer / Dektol (3 minutes) First, start your timer. Then, slide your print face up into the developer in one smooth motion, ensuring that the entire surface of the print is submersed. Developer brings the latent image to the surface of the printing paper. The print needs a constant supply of fresh developer, so agitate by gently rocking the developing tray. Some printers like to grab the print with tongs, flipping it over and over. This practice carries the risk of damaging the paper.The important thing is to keep things moving, and to keep the print covered with developer.

If the print is properly exposed, an image will appear on the face of the print after about 15 seconds. At first it will be very light, but it will grow steadily darker. Do not get excited and pull the print out when it "looks ready". Develop the print for at least 3 minutes…no matter what it looks like in the tray (unless it is still white or it has turned black). Remember (and this is extremely important): you control the darkness or lightness of the print with the exposure time, not the development time. If your print is too dark, toss it and expose the next sheet of paper for a shorter time. If your print is too light, toss it and expose the next sheet of paper for a longer time.

Stop Bath (30 seconds)

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Ten seconds before the 3 minutes of development are up, lift the print from the developer with the developer tongs. Let it drain for 10 seconds, and then place it gently in the stop bath. Agitate the print for 20 seconds in the stop bath.

Fixer (5 minutes) Ten seconds before the 30 seconds of the print being in the Stop Bath are up, lift the print out with the stop bath tongs, let it drain for ten seconds, and then place it into the tray of fixer. Agitate the tray gently, in the same way you agitated while in the developer. Fixer removes the light sensitive silver from the print, making it safe to take out into the light. It usually takes about 5 minutes in standard fixer to fully remove the residual silver.

Wash (10 minutes)Wash the print for at least 10 minutes under constantly running water. An archival print washer or a tray siphon washer are ideal, because they draw water from the bottom of the washer where the chemicals accumulate and gets rid of them through holes in the side of the tray. To prevent damage to the emulsion, RC paper should not stay wet for more than 20 minutes.

Drying RackYou can then leave to dry on the drying rack or gently dry with a hair drier.

QUESTIONS:

How do you make a tape transfer from start to finish?

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Fill-In-The-Blank Enlarger: A. Enlarger

lamp/bulb

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N. Counter Weight Balance

D. Condenser

B. Enlarger Head

G. Lens Aperture

F. Focusing Bellows

J. The Supporting Column

L. Focusing Control Knob

K. The Height or Elevation Adjustment Control Lever

E. Negative Carrier

C. Filter Holder

M. Height Adjustment Locking Knob

H. Lens

I. Baseboard

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