March, 2011

Presented by: Joe Kovarik josephpkovarik@hotmail.com

jpk images.zenfolio.com

Mike Ciletti eagle64@msn.com

March, 2011

Tonight’s Topics

• January, 2011 trip– The “Wave”– Other Places on this trip

• Break

• The Colorado Plateau

• Other Places on the Plateau

March, 2011

Day 1: Colorado Springs to Canyon De Chelly

Day 2: Canyon De Chelly to Page, Az

Day 3 and 4: Around Page

Day 5: Page to Mounument Valley via Navajo Natl Mnmt.

Day 6: Monument Valley to Colorado Springs via Goosenecks and Hovenweep

January, 2011 Trip

Permit Process for the Wave

https://www.blm.gov/az/paria/index.cfm?usearea=CB

Google Coyote Buttes North and you’ll find the BLM web site for obtaining permits.

March, 2011

Permit Process for the Wave

-First Check the Calendar. Typically Coyote Buttes North is always full but if someone cancels you could get lucky and see an opening. Coyote Buttes South will often have openings in the off season but fills up from April on.

-These calendars are as of Feb 25, 2011. They will always show current plus 3 months.

March, 2011

Permit Process for the Wave-Twenty people per day are allowed into the Wave area.

-Ten by lottery permit, and ten by daily drawings at the ranger station.

-Application fee is $5.00 and is non-refundable.

-Can request 3 trip days.

-If you get a permit then there is a $7.00/person fee.

-This table is as of Feb 25 and shows applications for June trip dates. From April through Nov this is typical number of applications. Odds are not good.

-December through March odds are better but there are still more applications than slots.

-In off-season I would recommend to go to Kanab and participate in the daily drawing for slots.

-Day we were there (Jan 27) we estimate only 14 people were at the Wave.

March, 2011

Satellite View of the Wave area

Trailhead

Wire Pass

Buckskin Gulch

The Wave

March, 2011

The Wave

Wave Entrance Nikon D300 f4.5 1/320sec 18mm

- Trailhead is 8 miles from paved road. Dirt road is impassable in wet conditions.

- Hike in is about 2.9 miles one way across sandy washes and slick rock. We hiked a total of about 8 miles and 1600’ elevation gains.

- BLM provides map, GPS coordinates, and route photos. They are very helpful but it is still easy to get off track. Terrain is very confusing and can drop into small canyons where you lose visibility and direction references.

- The wave photographs best in full shadow or full sunlight. Most recommend the best time is mid-day from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm. So no need to be there at sunrise. Appears to me that late day setting sun might be good but then have to contend with hiking out in the dark.

-Lots of areas to explore beside wave. The second wave, top rock arch, sandy cove, dance hall of the dinosaurs(false).

Along the Way Nikon D300 f9.0 1/250 70mm

March, 2011

- In the evening we stopped at the Junction and WhiteHouse Overlook. Use Split ND filter and catch the last rays0n the Canyon rim.

- Spider Rock overlook is about 25 miles from junction and the sun will hit the rock around 40 min after sunrise. Good vantage points from canyon rim.

- Work your way back to canyon mouth, stopping at overlooks for views of ruins. At White House overlook is trail head for only authorized hike into canyon without a guide.

-Tours into canyon are about $50/person, min. of 6 for 1/2 day. I’m told they are worthwhile.

- Did not visit the north rim and only hiked part way down White House ruins trail.

- Light is harsh during the day so early morning or late day is the best time to shoot.

-Left Chinle, Az for Page, Az a little after noon.

- If have time allows, there are small arches and buttes to shoot between Chinle and Kayenta.

Canyon de Chelly

March, 2011

Page Area

Lower Antelope Canyon

Upper Antelope Canyon

The Bend

The Wave

White Pocket

Toadstools Wahweap Hoodoos

Coyote Buttes North

Coyote Buttes South

Kanab, UtahAbout 35 miles

8 miles

Waterholes Slot Canyon

March, 2011

The Bend

Satellite view of the Bend

March, 2011

Lower Antelope Canyon

Lower Antelope Canyon:

-Not very crowded.

-2 hr guided tour or 4 hr unguided for $26.00.

-The Canyon is narrow in many spots, and has steep drops but metal ladders are installed.

-Best time to shoot is Mid day.

-Watch red channel histogram, easy to burn out the channel.

-Try to keep direct rays of light out of the viewfinder.

-HDR usually unnecessary. Only time I found it be helpful is when shooting up to keep the sky from burning out.

Upper Antelope Canyon:

-More popular, so is often more crowded.

-Tours limited to 2 to 2.5 hrs. As photographer you will contend with others potentially in the photo. Cost is approx. $50.00

-Tours are level, and easy walking.

Entrance

March, 2011

Page to Mounument Valley

- Drive is 125 miles or 2 and 1/2 hour

- Could do one of the Antelope Canyons in morning.

- We drove to Navajo National Monument on the way, which about 6 miles off the highway on good paved roads.

- This is the location of two excellent Indian Ruins.

Keet Seel, accessed by a 17mi RT trail

Betatakin, accessed by 3-5 hr RT hike

-Both are available only in summer and are ranger guided.

- Betatakin can be viewed from canyon rim on a 1.2 mile easy RT.

- Need Mid Day sun to see into Alcove but then light is harsh.

- Need long lens 200mm or more to see building details.

- After shooting can get to Monument Valley in time to shoot sunset.

Navajo Natl Mnmt

March, 2011

Monument Valley

There are two places to stay: Outside Park in Gouldings or inside park at the View Hotel.

Entrance to the park is $8.00/person, and can go on 17 mile road trip on your own.

Alternate is group or private tour.

Best times is around sunset or sunrise.

We went in about 2 hours before sunset and exited after dusk.

Watch your histogram, easy to overexpose the red channel.

Monument Valley from Artists Point (Panoramic/HDR 4 Horz images, each 3 images +/- 2.0 EV) Nikon D300 f7.1 70mm

March, 2011

Goosenecks State Park

Satellite view of the Goosenecks (San Juan River)

March, 2011

Photo tips for the Colorado PlateauThis is high dry desert country so some special considerations

Always be aware of the weather, including from miles away. Flash floods from a distance can kill.

Very dry climate so stay hydrated.

Wilderness, so rescue could be long and difficult.

Photography

-Lots of Sand so try not to change out lens. If you need to, keep the camera down.

-Use a blower to clear off lens.

-Try to protect camera/lens with some kind of cover.

-Red channel will be problematic. Use low saturation and contrast. Set picture control (nikon) to neutral and expose to the right using the RGB histogram.

-If familiar with it use Uni-WB technique. This allows max data in the shadow area and minimizes noise and artifacts in the shadows.

-Avoid Direct sunlight, look for reflected light.

-Canyons, slots, alcoves can be photographed in mid-morning to mid-afternoon.

-The plateau is sandstone of many colors affording great photography opportunities.

-In slot canyons almost impossible to do without a tripod and keep direct sunlight out of image otherwise dynamic range is too much to handle, don’t use a flash.

June, 2011

Colorado Plateau

Canyon Lands

Arches

-Rough outline of the Colorado Plateau

-Canyon Country outlined primarily by the drainage of the Colorado River and its tributaries.

-It is roughly 130,0000 sq. miles ranging in elevation from 4500ft to 6500ft.

-Marked on the map are the sites we have visited.

-Sites visited in red, planned future sites in blue.

Arches NP

Calf Creek

Navajo Ntl Mnmt

Zion Ntl Park

The Wave

Slot Canyons of the Escalante

Antelope Slots/The Bend

Cedar Mesa

Natural Bridges

San Rafael Swell/slots

Goblin Valley

Fantasy Canyon

Three Kings

Colorado Natl Mnmt

Rattlesnake Canyon

Canyonlands

Dinasour Natl Mnmt

Grand Canyon

Fisher Towers

Gateway, Co

Hovenweep Ntl Mnmt

Monument Valley

Canyon De Chelly

Bisti Badlands

March, 2011

ReferencesGuide Books- WOW, Utah Canyon Country. Kathy and Graig Copeland- Photographing the Southwest Volume 1 - A guide to the natural landmarks of Southern

Colorado. Laurent Martres.- Photographing the Southwest Volume 2 - A guide to the natural landmarks of Arizona.

Laurent Martres.- Photographing the Southwest Volume 3 - A guide to the natural landmarks of Colorado &

New Mexico. Laurent Martres.- Non-Technical Canyon Hiking Guide to the Colorado Plateau. Michael R. Kelsey.- Hiking and Exploring Utah’s San Rafael Swell. Michael R. Kelsey.- Hiking Ruins Seldom Seen. Dave Wilson.Web Sites- www.canyoneeringusa.com/utah/

- www.americansouthwest.net/slot_canyons/index.html- www.climb-utah.com/index.htm