physics of surfing

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The Physics of Surfing

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Page 1: Physics of Surfing

The Physics of Surfing

Page 2: Physics of Surfing

Lying on the board

Force of buoyancyForce of gravity

Center of mass

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Page 3: Physics of Surfing

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Page 4: Physics of Surfing

Catching the Wave

Paddle and move forward until you’re at the wave’s speed.

Push up on the center of mass

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Page 6: Physics of Surfing

Standing upStill consider buoyancy and

gravity and the center of mass.

Balance!Shifting weight will create a

torque and change the position of the buoyant force = r x F

Page 7: Physics of Surfing
Page 8: Physics of Surfing

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Page 9: Physics of Surfing

Riding the Wave

New force: hydrodynamicNet force no longer zero

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Page 10: Physics of Surfing

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Page 12: Physics of Surfing

Turning

Shift weight to the back side, board will react and roll slightly under your weight

Newton’s third lawForce of water on board’s

rear side will turn the boardBend and straighten legs to

go faster

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Page 14: Physics of Surfing

Physics of the board

ShortboardShort, thinSmaller moment of inertiaFaster

LongboardLong, thickerGreater moment of inertiaSlower

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Physics of the board

FinsWax

Page 18: Physics of Surfing