physics of surfing
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The Physics of Surfing
Lying on the board
Force of buoyancyForce of gravity
Center of mass
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Catching the Wave
Paddle and move forward until you’re at the wave’s speed.
Push up on the center of mass
Standing upStill consider buoyancy and
gravity and the center of mass.
Balance!Shifting weight will create a
torque and change the position of the buoyant force = r x F
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Riding the Wave
New force: hydrodynamicNet force no longer zero
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Riding the wave
Once you’ve caught the wave, use the conservation of energy to liven up the rideKEbottom = KEtop+PEtop
1/2mvs2=mgh+1/2mvw
2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GwVnq_t-Wc4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nS_aR8XX_U&feature=player_embedded
Turning
Shift weight to the back side, board will react and roll slightly under your weight
Newton’s third lawForce of water on board’s
rear side will turn the boardBend and straighten legs to
go faster
Physics of the board
ShortboardShort, thinSmaller moment of inertiaFaster
LongboardLong, thickerGreater moment of inertiaSlower
Physics of the board
FinsWax