plan wall tiling
TRANSCRIPT
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8/10/2019 Plan Wall Tiling
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Project essentials:
Tools3
Materials 3
wall or floor tilespacers
spirit level
pipe andpower detector
claw hamer
string
three 50mmx 25mmsoftwood battens
tiles
50mmmasonry nails
PVA-basedadhesive
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Ideal for the job
Detecting hazards
Never drill blind into a wall or floor, you mighthit gas or water pipes or electrical wires.
A battery-operated pipe and power detector is
inexpensive and essential for making sure it is
safe to drill.
LevellingA good-quality spirit level, designed to show you
a true horizontal or vertical, is a must-have toolwhen lining up tiles. Spirit levels come
in all lengths and prices.
Making it easierMaking it easier Making it easier
1 First measure one
wall, calculate its mid-
point and mark this on
the floor. Repeat with theopposite wall. With a
helper, stretch a chalk line
between the two marks
and snap a line across
the floor. Calculate and
mark the mid-point of thisline. Tie about 1m of
string to a pencil, and while your helper holds the end of the
string firmly on the mid-point of the line, pull it taught and
scribe an arc on the line either side.
2 Now get your helper to
hold the end of the string on
the point that one arc intersects
the line, and with the string
pulled taught draw arcs at aroughly 45 degree angle either
side of the centre line. When
you repeat this from the other side, the arcs should intersect.
3 Stretch a chalk line between these intersecting arcs and
snap a line across the floor. You now have two lines
intersecting at a perfect right angle in the centre of the room.
Simply follow these steps to plan your floor tiles...Preparing the existing floorn Concrete - clean with detergent mixed with water and if
it is uneven, level it; then lay tiles directly on the floor.
n Timber - must be strengthened with 13mm-thick exterior
grade plywood fixed with countersunk 25mm screws
(4mm gauge) or ring-shanked nails at 300mm intervals.
n Tiles - new tiles can be laid over old vinyl tiles after
coating the old tiles with primer.
Calculating quantitiesTiles are sold in packs and the size and number of tiles
they contain will determine the area of floor they will cover.
When you calculate the area of your floor, remember to
include the dimensions of any alcove or bay. Round up the
total to the nearest whole number to establish the numberof packs of tiles you need. Always buy 10% more tiles than
you need to allow for breakages.
Starting OutThe first tile, the key tile, determines the position of all the
others, so it is very important that this tile is in the right
place. Because rooms are seldom completely square, andthe walls may not be straight, you cannot start by laying
tiles right up against one wall and working your way out
from there - you would end up with an untidy mess. The
best way to ensure you have a symmetrical design is to
start from the centre of the room and work out to the walls
in each direction.
Positioning the key tileHaving found the centre of the room, start
at one of the centre lines, dry-lay a row of
tiles from the line to the wall. When you
reach the wall, make sure that you are not
left with a narrow gap because a very thin
strip of tile at the skirting will look very oddand may not stick very well. If necessary,
move the line away from this wall the width
of half a tile to create a larger gap. Repeat
the dry-laying from this centre line in the
opposite direction and then in both
directions perpendicular to it. Adjust thekey tile position as shown right, until there
is an equal gap of about half a tile at all the
edges of the room.
Finding the centre of the room
Tiling awkwardly shaped roomsIf the dimensions of the room are irregular, the chalk lines
will need to be snapped from a different place - the first linecentred on a strong focal point such as a fireplace or patio
doors. The room will still be divided into sections but they
will be different from one another.
Line 1 drawnbetween themid-point ofopposite walls
Line 2 intersectingmid-point of line 1at exactly 90
tape measure
pencil
guage rod
chalk
chalk line
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1 Lay out a line of tiles
with tile spacers betweenthem. Place the batten
alongside, lining up the end
with the edge of the first tile.our top tip
n Rather than remove old ceramic tiles, you
can simply tile over them. Check that theyare all firmly fixed in place and re-glueany that are loose. You must use a specific
adhesive for tiling over existing tiles andmake sure that the joint lines of the
new tiles do not lie directly over thoseof the old. However, this process i snt
suitable for natural stone tiles, as theweight may pull the existing tilesaway from the wall.
you can do it...
Vertical rows
2 Mark the positions of thetiles and gaps on the rod togive you a quick means ofworking out how many tilesyou will need in each row.
1 Hold your gauge rod so
that one of its marks aligns with
the centre-point on the wall.
Step off the tile positions
across the wall.
The first job is to establish the position of the vertical
rows. This will allow you to find the starting point,
which should be near the centre of the area to be tiled.
Measure the width of the area and mark its centre-point
with a pencil.
2 When you reach a corner,
you will see if you need to cut
the last tile in the row to fit. If this
will be less than half a tile wide,it is best to reposition the
starting point.
Horizontal rowsHaving established the positions of the vertical rows,
you can check where the horizontal rows will fall.
2 Measure the distance
between the two marks and make
a third mark halfway between them.Hold your gauge rod so the end is
just clear of the skirting or floor and
move it until one of its marks aligns
with the third mark. Make another
mark on the wall, level with the foot
of the rod. This will be the startingpoint for the first horizontal row of
whole tiles. Draw a level line across
the wall at this point. Nail a batten
with its top edge aligned with the line.Nail on another aligned to the vertical line.
1 Position the gauge rod
against the vertical pencil line, with its
end touching the floor (or skirting).
Put a pencil mark on the wall in linewith the top tile mark on the rod. Now
move the rod up the wall, still
following the vertical pencil line until it
touches the ceiling. If you are lucky,
the pencil mark on the wall will align
with one of the marks on the rod. Ifthere is no alignment, look at the
mark on the rod below the wall mark;halving the distance between them
will give you the size of the cut tiles required. It is best if these are
at least half a tile deep. If they will be narrower than this, make a
mark on the wall in line with the next mark down on the rod.
3 Reposition by aligning the
rod with the centre-point asbefore, then pencil a new mark
on the wall so that it falls halfway
between two tile marks on the
rod. This will be the actualstarting position for tiling and will
ensure that the cut tiles at eachend are more than half a tile wide,
and that the centre-line of the wall
passes through the centre of a tile.
4 Hold the gauge rod
against the new wall mark,
using a spirit level to ensure
that it is truly vertical, and
draw a line in pencil from top
to bottom.
Successful tiling relies on planning.To achieve a symmetrical design youmust centre the pattern, with cut tilesof equal size at the end of the rows.
Wall tiling
Before you startn Make sure the surface to be tiled is clean, dry and flat.
n Strip wallpaper back to the plaster and fill any holes.
n Allow new plaster to dry out completely.
n Prime porous surfaces with a PVA-based adhesive.
Calculating quantitiesThe size and number of tiles in a pack can vary. Check thepack to find out the area each pack will cover in square
metres, then measure the height and width of the area to be
tiled and multiply to obtain the area in square metres.
Allow 10% extra for breakages.
Simply follow these stepsto plan your wall tiles...
Making a tiling gauge rodA gauge rod allows you to work out the
positioning of the rows and the size of any cut tiles.
Use a 50mm x 25mm wooden batten and make it 1.8m
long for tiling a wall, shorter for a small area.