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Page 1: Pocket Bordeaux 1 eBook · d'Aqu ita ne La Base Sous-Marine La Cité du Vin Basilique St-Michel Basilique St-Seurin Plac ed la Bourse Cathédrale Musée des St-André Beaux Arts St

Contents2

BORDEAUX

NICOLA WILLIAMS

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Page 2: Pocket Bordeaux 1 eBook · d'Aqu ita ne La Base Sous-Marine La Cité du Vin Basilique St-Michel Basilique St-Seurin Plac ed la Bourse Cathédrale Musée des St-André Beaux Arts St

Contents

La Cité du Vin (p116) PHILIP BIRD LRPS CPAGB/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Plan Your Trip 4Welcome to Bordeaux ........4

Top Sights ............................6

Eating .................................10

Drinking & Nightlife ..........12

Shopping ............................14

Entertainment ...................16

Wine Tasting ......................18

Festivals & Events............ 20

Art ...................................... 22

Architecture ..................... 24

Activities ........................... 26

For Kids ............................. 28

LGBT+ ................................ 30

Markets ..............................31

Four Perfect Days ............ 32

Need to Know ................... 34

Bordeaux Neighbourhoods .............. 36

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Explore Bordeaux 39Saint-Pierre, Saint-Paul & the Triangle d’Or ...........41

Saint-Michel & Capucins-Victoire .............75

Saint-Seurin & Fondaudège ...................... 95

Chartrons, Bassins à Flot & Bacalan ................. 115

Worth a TripExploring La Bastide ....... 92

St-Émilion ........................ 112

The Médoc ...................... 136

Bassin d’Arcachon ......... 138

Survival Guide 141Before You Go ................ 142

Arriving in Bordeaux ..... 144

Getting Around ...............145

Essential Information ... 146

Language ......................... 151

Index ................................ 154

Special FeaturesCathédrale St-André ....... 42

Musée d’Aquitaine ...........44

Place de la Bourse ........... 46

Musée des Beaux Arts .... 48

Basilique St-Michel ..........76

Basilique St-Seurin .......... 96

La Cité du Vin .................. 116

La Base Sous-Marine ..... 118

Page 4: Pocket Bordeaux 1 eBook · d'Aqu ita ne La Base Sous-Marine La Cité du Vin Basilique St-Michel Basilique St-Seurin Plac ed la Bourse Cathédrale Musée des St-André Beaux Arts St

An intoxicating cocktail of 18th-century savoir-faire, futuristic architecture and urban street life, France’s sixth largest city is among Europe’s most exciting and gutsy players. Bordeaux’s elegant old town cradles the world’s largest urban Unesco World Heritage Site; its riverside buzzes; and green, sun-drenched vineyards hem in a weekend destination that sits right at the heart of French wine culture.

Welcome to Bordeaux©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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La Cité du VinWorld-class wine museum p116

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ights66

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Musée d’AquitaineBordelais history museum extraordi-naire p44

Cathédrale St-AndréCenturies of worship and rooftop views p42

Place de la BourseBordeaux’s most elegant square p46

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St Seurin

Chartrons

BordeauxNeighbourhoods

St Pierre

St Michel

Saint-Seurin & Fondaudège (p95)Roman ruins and a winemaker’s chateau are highlights of this brilliantly bourgeois area, crafted by rich 18th-century merchants and industrialists.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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St Seurin

Chartrons

BordeauxNeighbourhoods

St Pierre

St Michel

Chartrons, Bassins à Flot & Bacalan (p115)Check the pulse of millennial Bordeaux in this bohemian neighbourhood.

Saint-Pierre, Saint-Paul & the Triangle d’Or (p41)The city’s sightseeing hub and historic heart, medieval Saint-Paul and Saint-Pierre bristle with ancient churches, cafes and boutiques.

Saint-Michel & Capucins-Victoire (p75)Locals gravitate to this ethnic ’hood with open-air antique markets and the city’s premier food market right next door.

Page 9: Pocket Bordeaux 1 eBook · d'Aqu ita ne La Base Sous-Marine La Cité du Vin Basilique St-Michel Basilique St-Seurin Plac ed la Bourse Cathédrale Musée des St-André Beaux Arts St

Delve into Bordeaux’s ancient heart, a labyrinth of medieval streets named after 13th-century candlestick makers, goldsmiths, coopers and other craftsmen who worked here. North of Saint-Pierre, boulevards lined with elegant townhouses around Esplanade des Quinconces and the chic Triangle d’Or plunge visitors into aristocratic 18th-century Bordeaux.

For a city panorama, hike up the belfry (p56) of Cathédrale St-André (p42). By the river, architecture lovers flock to place de la Bourse (p46) and the world’s largest reflecting pool (p56). End the morning with Bordelais history at the Musée d’Aquitaine (p44) or art at the Musée des Beaux Arts (p48). Lunch at Le Bouchon Bordelais (p61). Shop in the afternoon on rue Ste-Catherine and the Triangle d’Or. End with a drink in Saint-Paul and diner at Belle Campagne (p62) or Miles (p63).

Saint-Pierre, Saint-Paul & the Triangle d’Or

Explore Y

Getting There & Aroundg Bus From Gare St-Jean take bus No 1 to place de la Victoire, then walk 10 minutes along cours Pasteur to the cathedral ensemble on place Jean Moulin.

j Tram Tram line C northbound from Gare St-Jean or southbound from Esplanade des Quinconces to the place de la Bourse stop on the riverfront; line A east from the Rive Droite to place du Palais.

Neighbourhood Map on p54

Place de la Bourse (p46) R O S S H E L E N /S H U T T E R STO C K ©

41

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South of the historic centre, two landmark churches – Gothic Basilique St-Michel and Romanesque Église Ste-Croix – tether the vibrant neighbourhoods of Saint-Michel and Sainte-Criox, known for their antique shopping. A colourful pot-pourri of street markets provides a melting pot for a diverse ethnic popula-tion, while Bordeaux’s sizeable student population gravitates to cafe terraces on place de la Victoire and around the city’s premier food market, Marché des Capucins.

Get your bearings and a coffee on student-filled place de la Victoire (p82), then stroll east to market-square place des Capucins: the covered market (p90) is only open mornings so arrive early to ensure the pick of produce and oysters for lunch at Chez Jean-Mi (p83). Explore Basilique St-Michel (p76) on place Reynard (invariably buzzing with an open-air flea market) and unsung Romanesque Église Ste-Croix (p82) in the afternoon. Dine at La Tupina (p86) and, come dark, ex-plore the riverside quays south of Sainte-Croix. Hit La Plage (p89), the city’s largest mainstream nightclub.

Saint-Michel & Capucins-Victoire

Explore Y

Getting There & Aroundj Tram Line C northbound from Gare St-Jean or southbound from Esplanade des Quinconces to stops Porte de Bourgogne, St-Michel or Ste-Croix.

Neighbourhood Map on p80

Place de la Victoire (p82) T R A B A N TO S/S H U T T E R STO C K ©

75

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Elegant and discrete, Saint-Seurin and Fondaudège offer a snapshot of bourgeois Bordeaux. Wealthy wine merchants and industrialists chose this quiet residen-tial neighbourhood to build sumptuous mansions in the 18th and 19th centuries and their legacy lingers in a bespoke scattering of lavish chateaux and hôtels par-ticuliers (private mansions). But scratch the surface and fascinating relics of Gallo-Roman civilisation and ancient Christian martyrdom emerge, not to mention a burgeoning foodie scene.

Begin on place Gambetta. Grab un café gourmand (coffee and sweet treats) at Café Baillardran (p101), then head north to Basilique St-Seurin (p96). Continue the history theme with a stroll to Palais Gallien (p102) to admire the only remaining vestiges of Roman Bordeaux. Afterwards, enjoy a gourmet lunch at a fash-ionable eatery on rue du Palais Gallien or rue Lafaurie de Monbadon. Devote the afternoon to exploring the northern part of the ‘hood: the Jardin Public (p103), Natural History Museum (p103) and memorable Institut Culturel Bernard Magrez (p101).

Saint-Seurin & Fondaudège

Explore Y

Getting There & Aroundj Tram Line B two stops southbound from Espla-nade des Quinconces to the Gambetta stop; line C northbound from Gare St-Jean to Jardin-Public.

Neighbourhood Map on p100

Porte Dijeaux, place Gambetta (p102) I VO A N TO N I E D E R O O I J/S H U T T E R STO C K ©

95

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Dramatic contrasts between old and new seduce visitors in this fashionably bohemian quarter where Bordeaux’s wine-trading history comes to life. Artist studios, antique galleries and independent boutiques pepper village-like Chartrons, named after Carthusian monks who lived here from 1383 until the 15th century when wine merchants moved in. Across the water, north of the Bassins à Flot (wet docks), cranes lace the skyline in regenerated 19th-century port district Bacalan.

Begin your day in Chartrons, hemmed in by 18th-century mansions on Pavé des Chartrons (p126). Visit the Musée du Vin et du Négoce (p124) and mooch antique malls on rue Notre Dame. Lunch at Bocca a Bocca (p129). Saunter north to the Bassins à Flot – wet docks cut off from the River Garonne by a lock – in marshland-turned-port Bacalan. Catch an exhibition at La Base Sous-Marine (p118), then hit La Cité du Vin (p116). End with wine tasting and dinner with view at Restaurant Le 7 (p129).

Chartrons, Bassins à Flot & Bacalan

Explore Y

Getting There & Aroundj Tram Line B northbound from Gare St-Jean to Quinconces, then tram C along the river to the Char-trons or La Cité du Vin stops.

f Boat B³ (www.infotbm.com) link quai de Bacalan (by the Quai des Marques shopping mall and La Cité du Vin) with quai des Maréchal Lyautey (near Palais de la Bourse) and quay des Queyries on the right bank.

Neighbourhood Map on p122

Chartrons A LVA R O G E R M A N V I L E L A /S H U T T E R STO C K ©

115

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Survival GuideBefore You Go 142Book Your Stay ............................................................142

When to Go ...................................................................142

Arriving in Bordeaux 144Getting Around 145Essential Information 146Accessible Travel .........................................................146

Business Hours ............................................................146

Discount Cards ............................................................146

Electricity .....................................................................146

Emergency & Important Numbers ............................146

Money ............................................................................ 147

Public Holidays ............................................................148

Safe Travel ....................................................................148

Smoking ........................................................................149

Telephone .....................................................................149

Toilets ............................................................................149

Tourist Information .....................................................150

Visas ..............................................................................150

Language 151

Bordeaux tram S - FA /S H U T T E R STO C K ©

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LanguageThe sounds used in spoken French can almost all be found in English. There are a couple of exceptions: nasal vowels (represented in our pronunciation guides by ‘o’ or ‘u’ fol-lowed by an almost inaudible nasal consonant sound ‘m’, ‘n’ or ‘ng’), the ‘funny’ u sound (‘ew’ in our guides) and the deep-in-the-throat r. Bear-ing these few points in mind and reading our pronunciation guides below as if they were English, you’ll be understood just fine. The mark-ers (m) and (f) indicate the forms for male and female speakers.

To enhance your trip with a phrasebook, visit lonelyplanet.com. Lonely Planet iPhone phrasebooks are available in the Apple App store.

BasicsHello. Bonjour. bon·zhoorGoodbye. Au revoir. o·rer·vwaHow are you? Comment ko·mon allez-vous? ta·lay·vooI’m fine, thanks. Bien, merci. byun mair·seePlease. S’il vous plaît. seel voo playThank you. Merci. mair·seeExcuse me. Excusez-moi. ek·skew·zay·mwaSorry. Pardon. par·don

Yes./No. Oui./Non. wee/nonI don’t understand. Je ne comprends zher ner kom·pron pas. paDo you speak English? Parlez-vous par·lay·voo anglais? ong·glay

Eating & Drinking…, please. …, s’il vous plaît. … seel voo play A coffee un café un ka·fay A table une table ewn ta·bler for two pour deux poor der Two deux der beers bières bee·yair

I’m a vegetarian. Je suis zher swee végétarien/ vay·zhay·ta·ryun/ végétarienne. (m/f) vay·zhay·ta·ryenThat was delicious! C’était say·tay délicieux! day·lee·syerThe bill, please. L’addition, la·dee·syon s’il vous plaît. seel voo play

ShoppingI’d like to buy … Je voudrais zher voo·dray acheter … ash·tay …I’m just looking. Je regarde. zher rer·gardHow much is it? C’est combien? say kom·byunIt’s too expensive. C’est trop cher. say tro shair

Language151

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Index

Aaccessible travel 146accommodation

142-4activities 26-7

for children 28air travel 144aperitifs 12, 88architecture 24-5area codes 146-7art 22-3art galleries 22ATMs 147

BBacalan 115-35, 122-3

drinking 131-3food 128-31shopping 135sights 116-19, 124-8transport 115

bars 12, see also Drinking subindex

Basilique St-Michel 76-7

Basilique St-Seurin 96-7, 99

Bassin d’Arcachon 138-9, 138

Bassins à Flot 115-35, 122-3

drinking 131-3food 128-31shopping 135sights 116-19, 124-8transport 115

bathrooms 149-50bicycle travel, see

cyclingbistros 10, see also

Eating subindexblogs 11boat travel 145-6boat trips 26brasseries 10, see

also Eating subindex

budget 34, 56, 146bus travel 144, 145business hours 146

CCafé Baillardran 101Cap Ferret 139CAP Sciences 127Capucins-Victoire

75-91, 80-1entertainment 90food 83-7shopping 90-1sights 82-3transport 75

car travel 146, see also drives

Cathédrale St-André 42-3

cell phones 34, 149Chapelle Notre

Dame de Bonne Nouvelle 97

Chapelle Notre Dame de la Rose 97

Charlemagne 103, 109

Chartrons 115-35, 122-3

drinking 131-3food 128-31shopping 135sights 116-19, 124-8transport 115walk 120-1, 120

Château Lanessan 137

Château Lynch-Bages 137

children, travel with 28-9

classes, see coursesclimate 142Clocher de l’Église

Monolithe 113clubs 12, see also

Drinking subindexcoffee 13, 65costs 34, 146, 147

coursescooking 83, 84, 101wine tasting 18,

58, 110Cox Gallery 126credit cards 147culture 66currency 34cycling 26-7, 145

Ddangers, see safetyDarwin 93disabilities, travellers

with 146discount cards 56,

146drinking & nightlife

12-13, see also Drinking subindex, individual neighbourhoods

drinks, see also wineaperitifs 12, 88coffee 13, 65

drives 136-7, 136driving, see car travelDune du Pilat 139

Eeating, see foodÉcole du Vin de

Bordeaux 58Église Collégiale 113

See also separate subindexes for:

5 Eating p1566 Drinking p1573 Entertainment p1577 Shopping p157

Sights 000Map Pages 000

Index154

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Église Notre Dame du Chapelet 58

Église Ste-Croix 82Église St-Eloi 53Église Ste-Marie de

la Bastide 93Église St-Pierre 57-8Eleanor of Aquitaine

59electricity 146emergencies 146-7entertainment 16-17,

see also Entertainment subindex

etiquette 148Euratlantique 89events 20-1, 22, 129

Ffestivals & events

20-1, 22, 129Fête du Vin Nouveau

et de la Brocante 129

Fondaudège 95-111, 100

drinking 107-8entertainment

108-10food 103-7shopping 110-11sights 101-3transport 95walk 98-9, 98

food 10-11, 85, 86, see also Eating sub- index, individual neighbourhoods

chocolatines 83desserts 105, 106eels 85for children 28hot dogs 60oysters 60, 85

French language 151-2

GGalerie des Beaux

Arts 49gay travellers 30Grosse Cloche 56-7

HHenry II 59highlights 6-9history 59

Burdigala 102, 109Charlemagne 103,

109WWII 119

holidays 148Hôtel Frugès 99Hôtel Ragueneau 53Hundreds Year

War 59

IInstitut Culturel

Bernard Magrez 101

internet resources 11accommodation 142wine tasting 18-19

itineraries 32-3, see also walking tours

JJardin Botanique de

la Bastide 93Jardin Public 103

LLa Base Sous-

Marine 118-19La Bastide 92-3, 92La Cité du Vin 116-17La Tour du Roy 113

La Winery 137Labo&Gato 83language 34, 151-2Le 101 121Le Garage Moderne

125Le M.U.R. 121Les Vivres de l’Art

125-6LGBT+ travellers 30live music 16-17

MMaison du Vin de

Émilion 113markets 31, 78-9, 91Méca 89Médoc 136-7, 136Memosine Tours 127Miroir d’Eau 56mobile phones 34,

149money 34, 146, 147-8Monument aux

Girondins 58motorcycle travel 146Musée Bordeaux –

Sciences et Nature 103

Musée d’Aquitaine 44-5

Musée d’Art Contemporain 124

Musée de la Mer et de la Marine 126-7

Musée de l’Histoire Maritime de Bordeaux 124

Musée des Arts Décoratifs et du Design 57

Musée des Beaux Arts 48-9

Musée d’Ethnographie 82

Musée du Vin et du Négoce 124

Musée National des Douanes 47

museums & galleries 22

music 17festivals 20-1performances 16-17

Nneobistros 10nightlife, see drinking

& nightlife

Oopening hours 146opera 16

PPalais de

l’Olmbrière 53Palais Gallien 102Pauillac 137Pavé des Chartrons

126Piscine Judaïque

101-2place de la Bourse

46-7place de la

Comédie 69place de la Victoire

82place de l’Église

Monolithique 113place du Clocher 113place Gambetta

99, 102planning 34point zéro 101

Index155

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Pont de Pierre 63Pont Jacques

Chaban-Delmas 127

Porte Cailhau 53, 56Porte de Bourgogne

83Promenade des

Remparts 83public holidays 148

QQuai des Chartrons

126

RRoman history 102,

109rue du Faubourg des

Arts 121rue du Muguet 53rue Jean Soula 99rue Ste-Catherine 51rue St-James 53Rustic Vines 58

Ssafety 148-9Saint-Michel 75-91,

80-1drinking 87-9entertainment 90food 83-7shopping 90-1sights 76-7, 82-3transport 75walk 78-9, 78

Saint-Paul 41-73, 54-5

drinking 64-7

entertainment 68food 58-64shopping 68-73sights 42-9, 56-8transport 41walk 52-3, 52

Saint-Pierre 41-73, 54-5

drinking 64-7entertainment 68food 58-64shopping 68-73sights 42-9, 56-8transport 41walk 52-3, 52

Saint Seurin 97Saint-Seurin 95-111,

100drinking 107-8entertainment

108-10food 103-7shopping 110-11sights 96-7, 101-3transport 95walk 98-9, 98

shopping 14-15, 50-1, 132, 50, see also markets, Shop-ping subindex, individual neighbourhoods

Site Archéologique de St-Seurin 101

Skate Parc des Chartrons 128

souvenirs 14St-Émilion 112-13, 112street art 22

Ttaxis 146telephone services

149theatre 16

time zones 34tipping 147-8toilets 149-50tomb of Saint

Fort 97top sights 6-9Tour Pey Berland 56tourist information

150tours 18train travel 145tram travel 145transport 35, 144-6Triangle d’Or 41-73,

54-5drinking 64-7entertainment 68food 58-64shopping 68-73sights 42-9, 56-8transport 41walk 50-1, 50

Vvacations 148Valleton, Jean-

Jacques 99visas 150

Wwalking tours

Chartron 120-1, 120La Bastide 92-3, 92Renaissance

Bordeaux 52-3, 52

Saint-Michel 78-9, 78

Saint-Seurin 98-9, 98

shopping 50-1, 50St-Émilion 112-13,

112

Wave Surf Café 127-8

weather 142websites, see internet

resourceswine 130

courses 18, 58, 110museums 116-17,

124sub-regions 134tasting 18-19tours 18

WWII 119

YYndō Hôtel 99

5 Eating

AAu Bistrot 79, 84Au Couvent 129

BBaud et Millet 106-7Belle Campagne 62Black List 43Bocca a bocca 129Brasserie Le

Bordeaux 61Brico Café 58-9

CCafé du Théâtre 84Café Lavinal 137Charli & Tom 131Chez Jean-Mi 83-4Contrast 60

FFamilia 131Sights 000

Map Pages 000

Index156

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GGaropapilles 103-4

HHalle Boca 86Horace 62

KKitchen Garden 60Kuzina 84

LLa Boulangerie 86-7La Co(o)rniche 139La Copa Rota 131La Grande

Maison 107La Maison du

Glacier 62La Maison du Pata

Negra 84La Tupina 86Le Bistrot du

Caillou 93Le Bouchon

Bordelais 61Le Davoli 62-3Le Petit

Commerce 63Le Pressoir

d’Argent 63-4L’Envers du

Decors 113Les Halles de

Bacalan 128

MMagasin Général 93Mancuso 70Meat Pack, the 62Mets Mots 104Miles 63

NNadia Fermingier 105Nama 106

RRaviolon 104Restaurant Le 7 129

UUne Cuisine

en Ville 106

WWoof 60

ZZAC 131

6 Drinking

AAu Bout du Monde

88-9Au Nouveau Monde

66

BBanana Café 66-7Bar à Vin 64-5

CCafé Gusco 108Café Laiton 79, 88Café Piha 65-6Cancan 65

IIbaïa Café 133I.Boat 132

KKabëng 88Koeben 108

LLa Guinguette Chez

Alriq 93La Pachanga 89La Pelle Café 132-3La Petite Martinique

133La Plage 89L’Alchimiste 66L’Apollo 53, 65L’Atelier Bière 88Le Monologue 107-8Le Monseigneur 67Le Point Rouge 87Le Taquin 87-8Le Zytho 132Les Mots Bleues 67L’Orangerie 108

NNight Beach 64

SSherlock Holmes 108Symbiose 131-2

UUtopia 65

3 Entertainment

Auditorium 110Grand Théâtre 68La Grande Poste

108-9Le Fiacre 68Le Port de la Lune 90Marché de Lerme 110

Rock School Barbey 90

7 Shopping

AArchibald & Zoé 72Atelier Ex-Anima 135Au Comptoir

Bordelaise 72-3

BBaaam 51Blue Madone 69Brocante du

Dimanche 91

CCave Briau 110Chez Delphine 70Chocolaterie

Cadiot-Badie 71-2Chocolaterie

Saunion 69

DDo You Speak

Français? 135

FFreep’Show Vintage

69-70Fromagerie Deruelle

70-1

GGaleries Lafayette

51, 71

JJean d’Alos 51

Index157

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LL’Atelier 135L’Atelier de Lutherie

90-1Le 101 135Le Boutique 111Le Goût du Papier 111Les Hangars 91Les Sisterettes 51Lily Blake 135L’Intendant 68-9

MMarché des

Bouquinistes 91Marché des

Capucins 90Mollat 51

OOliv’Art 111

PPassage St-Michel 91Popins 53, 70

QQuai des Marques

132

SSerendipity 69

VVillage Notre Dame

135

Ww.a.n. 73

YYvonne 90

Sights 000Map Pages 000

Index158

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Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541531st edition – April 2019ISBN 978 1 78701 690 3© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other coun-tries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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Nicola WilliamsBorder-hopping is a way of life for British writer, runner, foodie, art aficionado and mum of three, Nicola Williams. Nicola has authored more than 50 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, and covers France as a destination expert for the Telegraph. She also writes for the Independent, the Guardian, lonelyplanet.com, Lonely Planet Magazine, French Magazine, Cool Camping France and others. Catch her on Twitter and Instagram @tripalong.

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