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Contents2
BORDEAUX
NICOLA WILLIAMS
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Contents
La Cité du Vin (p116) PHILIP BIRD LRPS CPAGB/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Plan Your Trip 4Welcome to Bordeaux ........4
Top Sights ............................6
Eating .................................10
Drinking & Nightlife ..........12
Shopping ............................14
Entertainment ...................16
Wine Tasting ......................18
Festivals & Events............ 20
Art ...................................... 22
Architecture ..................... 24
Activities ........................... 26
For Kids ............................. 28
LGBT+ ................................ 30
Markets ..............................31
Four Perfect Days ............ 32
Need to Know ................... 34
Bordeaux Neighbourhoods .............. 36
Explore Bordeaux 39Saint-Pierre, Saint-Paul & the Triangle d’Or ...........41
Saint-Michel & Capucins-Victoire .............75
Saint-Seurin & Fondaudège ...................... 95
Chartrons, Bassins à Flot & Bacalan ................. 115
Worth a TripExploring La Bastide ....... 92
St-Émilion ........................ 112
The Médoc ...................... 136
Bassin d’Arcachon ......... 138
Survival Guide 141Before You Go ................ 142
Arriving in Bordeaux ..... 144
Getting Around ...............145
Essential Information ... 146
Language ......................... 151
Index ................................ 154
Special FeaturesCathédrale St-André ....... 42
Musée d’Aquitaine ...........44
Place de la Bourse ........... 46
Musée des Beaux Arts .... 48
Basilique St-Michel ..........76
Basilique St-Seurin .......... 96
La Cité du Vin .................. 116
La Base Sous-Marine ..... 118
An intoxicating cocktail of 18th-century savoir-faire, futuristic architecture and urban street life, France’s sixth largest city is among Europe’s most exciting and gutsy players. Bordeaux’s elegant old town cradles the world’s largest urban Unesco World Heritage Site; its riverside buzzes; and green, sun-drenched vineyards hem in a weekend destination that sits right at the heart of French wine culture.
Welcome to Bordeaux©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
La Cité du VinWorld-class wine museum p116
Top SightsJE
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Plan Your Trip Top S
ights66
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Musée d’AquitaineBordelais history museum extraordi-naire p44
Cathédrale St-AndréCenturies of worship and rooftop views p42
Place de la BourseBordeaux’s most elegant square p46
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Plan Your Trip Top S
ights7
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St Seurin
Chartrons
BordeauxNeighbourhoods
St Pierre
St Michel
Saint-Seurin & Fondaudège (p95)Roman ruins and a winemaker’s chateau are highlights of this brilliantly bourgeois area, crafted by rich 18th-century merchants and industrialists.
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St Seurin
Chartrons
BordeauxNeighbourhoods
St Pierre
St Michel
Chartrons, Bassins à Flot & Bacalan (p115)Check the pulse of millennial Bordeaux in this bohemian neighbourhood.
Saint-Pierre, Saint-Paul & the Triangle d’Or (p41)The city’s sightseeing hub and historic heart, medieval Saint-Paul and Saint-Pierre bristle with ancient churches, cafes and boutiques.
Saint-Michel & Capucins-Victoire (p75)Locals gravitate to this ethnic ’hood with open-air antique markets and the city’s premier food market right next door.
Delve into Bordeaux’s ancient heart, a labyrinth of medieval streets named after 13th-century candlestick makers, goldsmiths, coopers and other craftsmen who worked here. North of Saint-Pierre, boulevards lined with elegant townhouses around Esplanade des Quinconces and the chic Triangle d’Or plunge visitors into aristocratic 18th-century Bordeaux.
For a city panorama, hike up the belfry (p56) of Cathédrale St-André (p42). By the river, architecture lovers flock to place de la Bourse (p46) and the world’s largest reflecting pool (p56). End the morning with Bordelais history at the Musée d’Aquitaine (p44) or art at the Musée des Beaux Arts (p48). Lunch at Le Bouchon Bordelais (p61). Shop in the afternoon on rue Ste-Catherine and the Triangle d’Or. End with a drink in Saint-Paul and diner at Belle Campagne (p62) or Miles (p63).
Saint-Pierre, Saint-Paul & the Triangle d’Or
Explore Y
Getting There & Aroundg Bus From Gare St-Jean take bus No 1 to place de la Victoire, then walk 10 minutes along cours Pasteur to the cathedral ensemble on place Jean Moulin.
j Tram Tram line C northbound from Gare St-Jean or southbound from Esplanade des Quinconces to the place de la Bourse stop on the riverfront; line A east from the Rive Droite to place du Palais.
Neighbourhood Map on p54
Place de la Bourse (p46) R O S S H E L E N /S H U T T E R STO C K ©
41
South of the historic centre, two landmark churches – Gothic Basilique St-Michel and Romanesque Église Ste-Croix – tether the vibrant neighbourhoods of Saint-Michel and Sainte-Criox, known for their antique shopping. A colourful pot-pourri of street markets provides a melting pot for a diverse ethnic popula-tion, while Bordeaux’s sizeable student population gravitates to cafe terraces on place de la Victoire and around the city’s premier food market, Marché des Capucins.
Get your bearings and a coffee on student-filled place de la Victoire (p82), then stroll east to market-square place des Capucins: the covered market (p90) is only open mornings so arrive early to ensure the pick of produce and oysters for lunch at Chez Jean-Mi (p83). Explore Basilique St-Michel (p76) on place Reynard (invariably buzzing with an open-air flea market) and unsung Romanesque Église Ste-Croix (p82) in the afternoon. Dine at La Tupina (p86) and, come dark, ex-plore the riverside quays south of Sainte-Croix. Hit La Plage (p89), the city’s largest mainstream nightclub.
Saint-Michel & Capucins-Victoire
Explore Y
Getting There & Aroundj Tram Line C northbound from Gare St-Jean or southbound from Esplanade des Quinconces to stops Porte de Bourgogne, St-Michel or Ste-Croix.
Neighbourhood Map on p80
Place de la Victoire (p82) T R A B A N TO S/S H U T T E R STO C K ©
75
Elegant and discrete, Saint-Seurin and Fondaudège offer a snapshot of bourgeois Bordeaux. Wealthy wine merchants and industrialists chose this quiet residen-tial neighbourhood to build sumptuous mansions in the 18th and 19th centuries and their legacy lingers in a bespoke scattering of lavish chateaux and hôtels par-ticuliers (private mansions). But scratch the surface and fascinating relics of Gallo-Roman civilisation and ancient Christian martyrdom emerge, not to mention a burgeoning foodie scene.
Begin on place Gambetta. Grab un café gourmand (coffee and sweet treats) at Café Baillardran (p101), then head north to Basilique St-Seurin (p96). Continue the history theme with a stroll to Palais Gallien (p102) to admire the only remaining vestiges of Roman Bordeaux. Afterwards, enjoy a gourmet lunch at a fash-ionable eatery on rue du Palais Gallien or rue Lafaurie de Monbadon. Devote the afternoon to exploring the northern part of the ‘hood: the Jardin Public (p103), Natural History Museum (p103) and memorable Institut Culturel Bernard Magrez (p101).
Saint-Seurin & Fondaudège
Explore Y
Getting There & Aroundj Tram Line B two stops southbound from Espla-nade des Quinconces to the Gambetta stop; line C northbound from Gare St-Jean to Jardin-Public.
Neighbourhood Map on p100
Porte Dijeaux, place Gambetta (p102) I VO A N TO N I E D E R O O I J/S H U T T E R STO C K ©
95
Dramatic contrasts between old and new seduce visitors in this fashionably bohemian quarter where Bordeaux’s wine-trading history comes to life. Artist studios, antique galleries and independent boutiques pepper village-like Chartrons, named after Carthusian monks who lived here from 1383 until the 15th century when wine merchants moved in. Across the water, north of the Bassins à Flot (wet docks), cranes lace the skyline in regenerated 19th-century port district Bacalan.
Begin your day in Chartrons, hemmed in by 18th-century mansions on Pavé des Chartrons (p126). Visit the Musée du Vin et du Négoce (p124) and mooch antique malls on rue Notre Dame. Lunch at Bocca a Bocca (p129). Saunter north to the Bassins à Flot – wet docks cut off from the River Garonne by a lock – in marshland-turned-port Bacalan. Catch an exhibition at La Base Sous-Marine (p118), then hit La Cité du Vin (p116). End with wine tasting and dinner with view at Restaurant Le 7 (p129).
Chartrons, Bassins à Flot & Bacalan
Explore Y
Getting There & Aroundj Tram Line B northbound from Gare St-Jean to Quinconces, then tram C along the river to the Char-trons or La Cité du Vin stops.
f Boat B³ (www.infotbm.com) link quai de Bacalan (by the Quai des Marques shopping mall and La Cité du Vin) with quai des Maréchal Lyautey (near Palais de la Bourse) and quay des Queyries on the right bank.
Neighbourhood Map on p122
Chartrons A LVA R O G E R M A N V I L E L A /S H U T T E R STO C K ©
115
Survival GuideBefore You Go 142Book Your Stay ............................................................142
When to Go ...................................................................142
Arriving in Bordeaux 144Getting Around 145Essential Information 146Accessible Travel .........................................................146
Business Hours ............................................................146
Discount Cards ............................................................146
Electricity .....................................................................146
Emergency & Important Numbers ............................146
Money ............................................................................ 147
Public Holidays ............................................................148
Safe Travel ....................................................................148
Smoking ........................................................................149
Telephone .....................................................................149
Toilets ............................................................................149
Tourist Information .....................................................150
Visas ..............................................................................150
Language 151
Bordeaux tram S - FA /S H U T T E R STO C K ©
LanguageThe sounds used in spoken French can almost all be found in English. There are a couple of exceptions: nasal vowels (represented in our pronunciation guides by ‘o’ or ‘u’ fol-lowed by an almost inaudible nasal consonant sound ‘m’, ‘n’ or ‘ng’), the ‘funny’ u sound (‘ew’ in our guides) and the deep-in-the-throat r. Bear-ing these few points in mind and reading our pronunciation guides below as if they were English, you’ll be understood just fine. The mark-ers (m) and (f) indicate the forms for male and female speakers.
To enhance your trip with a phrasebook, visit lonelyplanet.com. Lonely Planet iPhone phrasebooks are available in the Apple App store.
BasicsHello. Bonjour. bon·zhoorGoodbye. Au revoir. o·rer·vwaHow are you? Comment ko·mon allez-vous? ta·lay·vooI’m fine, thanks. Bien, merci. byun mair·seePlease. S’il vous plaît. seel voo playThank you. Merci. mair·seeExcuse me. Excusez-moi. ek·skew·zay·mwaSorry. Pardon. par·don
Yes./No. Oui./Non. wee/nonI don’t understand. Je ne comprends zher ner kom·pron pas. paDo you speak English? Parlez-vous par·lay·voo anglais? ong·glay
Eating & Drinking…, please. …, s’il vous plaît. … seel voo play A coffee un café un ka·fay A table une table ewn ta·bler for two pour deux poor der Two deux der beers bières bee·yair
I’m a vegetarian. Je suis zher swee végétarien/ vay·zhay·ta·ryun/ végétarienne. (m/f) vay·zhay·ta·ryenThat was delicious! C’était say·tay délicieux! day·lee·syerThe bill, please. L’addition, la·dee·syon s’il vous plaît. seel voo play
ShoppingI’d like to buy … Je voudrais zher voo·dray acheter … ash·tay …I’m just looking. Je regarde. zher rer·gardHow much is it? C’est combien? say kom·byunIt’s too expensive. C’est trop cher. say tro shair
Language151
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Index
Aaccessible travel 146accommodation
142-4activities 26-7
for children 28air travel 144aperitifs 12, 88architecture 24-5area codes 146-7art 22-3art galleries 22ATMs 147
BBacalan 115-35, 122-3
drinking 131-3food 128-31shopping 135sights 116-19, 124-8transport 115
bars 12, see also Drinking subindex
Basilique St-Michel 76-7
Basilique St-Seurin 96-7, 99
Bassin d’Arcachon 138-9, 138
Bassins à Flot 115-35, 122-3
drinking 131-3food 128-31shopping 135sights 116-19, 124-8transport 115
bathrooms 149-50bicycle travel, see
cyclingbistros 10, see also
Eating subindexblogs 11boat travel 145-6boat trips 26brasseries 10, see
also Eating subindex
budget 34, 56, 146bus travel 144, 145business hours 146
CCafé Baillardran 101Cap Ferret 139CAP Sciences 127Capucins-Victoire
75-91, 80-1entertainment 90food 83-7shopping 90-1sights 82-3transport 75
car travel 146, see also drives
Cathédrale St-André 42-3
cell phones 34, 149Chapelle Notre
Dame de Bonne Nouvelle 97
Chapelle Notre Dame de la Rose 97
Charlemagne 103, 109
Chartrons 115-35, 122-3
drinking 131-3food 128-31shopping 135sights 116-19, 124-8transport 115walk 120-1, 120
Château Lanessan 137
Château Lynch-Bages 137
children, travel with 28-9
classes, see coursesclimate 142Clocher de l’Église
Monolithe 113clubs 12, see also
Drinking subindexcoffee 13, 65costs 34, 146, 147
coursescooking 83, 84, 101wine tasting 18,
58, 110Cox Gallery 126credit cards 147culture 66currency 34cycling 26-7, 145
Ddangers, see safetyDarwin 93disabilities, travellers
with 146discount cards 56,
146drinking & nightlife
12-13, see also Drinking subindex, individual neighbourhoods
drinks, see also wineaperitifs 12, 88coffee 13, 65
drives 136-7, 136driving, see car travelDune du Pilat 139
Eeating, see foodÉcole du Vin de
Bordeaux 58Église Collégiale 113
See also separate subindexes for:
5 Eating p1566 Drinking p1573 Entertainment p1577 Shopping p157
Sights 000Map Pages 000
Index154
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Église Notre Dame du Chapelet 58
Église Ste-Croix 82Église St-Eloi 53Église Ste-Marie de
la Bastide 93Église St-Pierre 57-8Eleanor of Aquitaine
59electricity 146emergencies 146-7entertainment 16-17,
see also Entertainment subindex
etiquette 148Euratlantique 89events 20-1, 22, 129
Ffestivals & events
20-1, 22, 129Fête du Vin Nouveau
et de la Brocante 129
Fondaudège 95-111, 100
drinking 107-8entertainment
108-10food 103-7shopping 110-11sights 101-3transport 95walk 98-9, 98
food 10-11, 85, 86, see also Eating sub- index, individual neighbourhoods
chocolatines 83desserts 105, 106eels 85for children 28hot dogs 60oysters 60, 85
French language 151-2
GGalerie des Beaux
Arts 49gay travellers 30Grosse Cloche 56-7
HHenry II 59highlights 6-9history 59
Burdigala 102, 109Charlemagne 103,
109WWII 119
holidays 148Hôtel Frugès 99Hôtel Ragueneau 53Hundreds Year
War 59
IInstitut Culturel
Bernard Magrez 101
internet resources 11accommodation 142wine tasting 18-19
itineraries 32-3, see also walking tours
JJardin Botanique de
la Bastide 93Jardin Public 103
LLa Base Sous-
Marine 118-19La Bastide 92-3, 92La Cité du Vin 116-17La Tour du Roy 113
La Winery 137Labo&Gato 83language 34, 151-2Le 101 121Le Garage Moderne
125Le M.U.R. 121Les Vivres de l’Art
125-6LGBT+ travellers 30live music 16-17
MMaison du Vin de
Émilion 113markets 31, 78-9, 91Méca 89Médoc 136-7, 136Memosine Tours 127Miroir d’Eau 56mobile phones 34,
149money 34, 146, 147-8Monument aux
Girondins 58motorcycle travel 146Musée Bordeaux –
Sciences et Nature 103
Musée d’Aquitaine 44-5
Musée d’Art Contemporain 124
Musée de la Mer et de la Marine 126-7
Musée de l’Histoire Maritime de Bordeaux 124
Musée des Arts Décoratifs et du Design 57
Musée des Beaux Arts 48-9
Musée d’Ethnographie 82
Musée du Vin et du Négoce 124
Musée National des Douanes 47
museums & galleries 22
music 17festivals 20-1performances 16-17
Nneobistros 10nightlife, see drinking
& nightlife
Oopening hours 146opera 16
PPalais de
l’Olmbrière 53Palais Gallien 102Pauillac 137Pavé des Chartrons
126Piscine Judaïque
101-2place de la Bourse
46-7place de la
Comédie 69place de la Victoire
82place de l’Église
Monolithique 113place du Clocher 113place Gambetta
99, 102planning 34point zéro 101
Index155
Pont de Pierre 63Pont Jacques
Chaban-Delmas 127
Porte Cailhau 53, 56Porte de Bourgogne
83Promenade des
Remparts 83public holidays 148
QQuai des Chartrons
126
RRoman history 102,
109rue du Faubourg des
Arts 121rue du Muguet 53rue Jean Soula 99rue Ste-Catherine 51rue St-James 53Rustic Vines 58
Ssafety 148-9Saint-Michel 75-91,
80-1drinking 87-9entertainment 90food 83-7shopping 90-1sights 76-7, 82-3transport 75walk 78-9, 78
Saint-Paul 41-73, 54-5
drinking 64-7
entertainment 68food 58-64shopping 68-73sights 42-9, 56-8transport 41walk 52-3, 52
Saint-Pierre 41-73, 54-5
drinking 64-7entertainment 68food 58-64shopping 68-73sights 42-9, 56-8transport 41walk 52-3, 52
Saint Seurin 97Saint-Seurin 95-111,
100drinking 107-8entertainment
108-10food 103-7shopping 110-11sights 96-7, 101-3transport 95walk 98-9, 98
shopping 14-15, 50-1, 132, 50, see also markets, Shop-ping subindex, individual neighbourhoods
Site Archéologique de St-Seurin 101
Skate Parc des Chartrons 128
souvenirs 14St-Émilion 112-13, 112street art 22
Ttaxis 146telephone services
149theatre 16
time zones 34tipping 147-8toilets 149-50tomb of Saint
Fort 97top sights 6-9Tour Pey Berland 56tourist information
150tours 18train travel 145tram travel 145transport 35, 144-6Triangle d’Or 41-73,
54-5drinking 64-7entertainment 68food 58-64shopping 68-73sights 42-9, 56-8transport 41walk 50-1, 50
Vvacations 148Valleton, Jean-
Jacques 99visas 150
Wwalking tours
Chartron 120-1, 120La Bastide 92-3, 92Renaissance
Bordeaux 52-3, 52
Saint-Michel 78-9, 78
Saint-Seurin 98-9, 98
shopping 50-1, 50St-Émilion 112-13,
112
Wave Surf Café 127-8
weather 142websites, see internet
resourceswine 130
courses 18, 58, 110museums 116-17,
124sub-regions 134tasting 18-19tours 18
WWII 119
YYndō Hôtel 99
5 Eating
AAu Bistrot 79, 84Au Couvent 129
BBaud et Millet 106-7Belle Campagne 62Black List 43Bocca a bocca 129Brasserie Le
Bordeaux 61Brico Café 58-9
CCafé du Théâtre 84Café Lavinal 137Charli & Tom 131Chez Jean-Mi 83-4Contrast 60
FFamilia 131Sights 000
Map Pages 000
Index156
GGaropapilles 103-4
HHalle Boca 86Horace 62
KKitchen Garden 60Kuzina 84
LLa Boulangerie 86-7La Co(o)rniche 139La Copa Rota 131La Grande
Maison 107La Maison du
Glacier 62La Maison du Pata
Negra 84La Tupina 86Le Bistrot du
Caillou 93Le Bouchon
Bordelais 61Le Davoli 62-3Le Petit
Commerce 63Le Pressoir
d’Argent 63-4L’Envers du
Decors 113Les Halles de
Bacalan 128
MMagasin Général 93Mancuso 70Meat Pack, the 62Mets Mots 104Miles 63
NNadia Fermingier 105Nama 106
RRaviolon 104Restaurant Le 7 129
UUne Cuisine
en Ville 106
WWoof 60
ZZAC 131
6 Drinking
AAu Bout du Monde
88-9Au Nouveau Monde
66
BBanana Café 66-7Bar à Vin 64-5
CCafé Gusco 108Café Laiton 79, 88Café Piha 65-6Cancan 65
IIbaïa Café 133I.Boat 132
KKabëng 88Koeben 108
LLa Guinguette Chez
Alriq 93La Pachanga 89La Pelle Café 132-3La Petite Martinique
133La Plage 89L’Alchimiste 66L’Apollo 53, 65L’Atelier Bière 88Le Monologue 107-8Le Monseigneur 67Le Point Rouge 87Le Taquin 87-8Le Zytho 132Les Mots Bleues 67L’Orangerie 108
NNight Beach 64
SSherlock Holmes 108Symbiose 131-2
UUtopia 65
3 Entertainment
Auditorium 110Grand Théâtre 68La Grande Poste
108-9Le Fiacre 68Le Port de la Lune 90Marché de Lerme 110
Rock School Barbey 90
7 Shopping
AArchibald & Zoé 72Atelier Ex-Anima 135Au Comptoir
Bordelaise 72-3
BBaaam 51Blue Madone 69Brocante du
Dimanche 91
CCave Briau 110Chez Delphine 70Chocolaterie
Cadiot-Badie 71-2Chocolaterie
Saunion 69
DDo You Speak
Français? 135
FFreep’Show Vintage
69-70Fromagerie Deruelle
70-1
GGaleries Lafayette
51, 71
JJean d’Alos 51
Index157
LL’Atelier 135L’Atelier de Lutherie
90-1Le 101 135Le Boutique 111Le Goût du Papier 111Les Hangars 91Les Sisterettes 51Lily Blake 135L’Intendant 68-9
MMarché des
Bouquinistes 91Marché des
Capucins 90Mollat 51
OOliv’Art 111
PPassage St-Michel 91Popins 53, 70
QQuai des Marques
132
SSerendipity 69
VVillage Notre Dame
135
Ww.a.n. 73
YYvonne 90
Sights 000Map Pages 000
Index158
Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541531st edition – April 2019ISBN 978 1 78701 690 3© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other coun-tries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
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Nicola WilliamsBorder-hopping is a way of life for British writer, runner, foodie, art aficionado and mum of three, Nicola Williams. Nicola has authored more than 50 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, and covers France as a destination expert for the Telegraph. She also writes for the Independent, the Guardian, lonelyplanet.com, Lonely Planet Magazine, French Magazine, Cool Camping France and others. Catch her on Twitter and Instagram @tripalong.
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