porthole december 2012

DISPLAY UNTIL 1/15/2013

DECEMBER 2012

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HELLO H

2OOOOOOOOH.

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CALL YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL OR 1.888.NCL.CRUISE

NORWEGIAN BREAKAWAY, OUR NEWEST SHIP, WAS MADE TO

BRING YOU CLOSER TO THE OCEAN THAN EVER BEFORE.

ITS UNIQUE, OPEN DESIGN LETS THE SUN, STARS,

AND SEA SURROUND EVERYTHING YOU DO.

STROLL ALONG THE WATERFRONT, A QUARTER-MILE

PROMENADE LINED WITH MANY OF OUR 28 DINING

EXPERIENCES. SAVOR THE CULINARY GENIUS OF IRON CHEF

GEOFFREY ZAKARIAN AT OCEAN BLUE, HIS FIRST RESTAURANT

AT SEA AND OUR FIRST SEAFOOD RESTAURANT EVER.

MINGLE IN THE LIGHT-FILLED ATRIUM OF 678 OCEAN PLACE

FOR CASINO AND SHOPPING FUN OR PLAY ON THE FASTEST

WATERSLIDES ON THE ATLANTIC AND ACROSS THREE LEVELS

OF SPORTS FACILITIES. THEN RELAX IN THE COMFORT OF OUR

SELECT SUITES IN THE HAVEN AFTER ENJOYING ONE OF

OUR HIT BROADWAY SHOWS LIKE ROCK OF AGES.

NEW YORK’S SHIP SETS SAIL FOR SEVEN DAYS TO BERMUDA IN

SPRING 2013. GET READY TO ABANDON LAND AND BREAKAWAY.

BREAKAWAY.NCL.COM

ABANDON LAND.

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contributorsBill Panoff Publisher/Editor-in-Chief

Linda Douthat Associate Publisher/Creative DirectorGrant Balfour, Phillip Crandall, Emma Trelles Managing EditorsLaura Roche, James P. Karpinen, Caroline Geertz Art DirectorsMaria Baro Production DirectorTammy Robinson Production ManagerSkip Anderson Creative AssistantSarah Diamond Editorial InternSara Linda Proofreader

Johnny Jet, Robert McGarvey, Clark Norton Columnists

Natalie Aroyan, Shawn J. Dake, Chris Gray Faust, Matt Hannafin, Ben Lyons,Rosemary Parkinson, Lynn and Cele Seldon, Richard Varr Contributing Writers

Natalie Aroyan, Shawn J. Dake, eStock Photo, Getty Images, Harvey Lloyd,Rosemary Parkinson, SuperStock, Richard Varr Contributing Photographers

SALES OFFICES Corporate Headquarters, The PPI Group, 6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100, Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33309 USAPhone: (954) 377-7777, Fax: (954) 377-7000, Email: [email protected] Mitch Pizik Senior Vice President, Sales and MarketingWilliam P. Jordan III Vice President, Brand MarketingRichard Collins, Brett Grady, Iris Rodriguez Regional Sales Managers

DISTRIBUTION Nationally distributed by Curtis Circulation Co.Newsstand Consultant: Ron Sklon

Printed in Canada.

Bill Panoff President/CEOIrene Panoff Chief Operations OfficerJose I. Martin Chief Financial OfficerLinda Douthat Senior Vice President, PublishingMitch Pizik Senior Vice President, Sales and MarketingWilliam P. Jordan III Vice President, Brand MarketingBrandon Fleszar Director of Broadcast OperationsTony Scarpa Financial ControllerJoseph Alexander Director of TechnologyPatti Lankford Assistant to the CEO

Porthole ©2012 Porthole Magazine, Inc. ISSN: 1070-9479Postmaster: Send address changes to P.O. Box 469066, Escondido, CA 92046.All rights reserved. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, is forbidden withoutwritten permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility forthe safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork, or othermaterial. Porthole Cruise Magazine is published six times a year by PortholeMagazine, Inc. It is distributed on a paid basis to subscribers worldwide, includingcruisegoers and cruise industry executives. It also is distributed on a controlled-circulation basis. Porthole shall not be held liable for claims made in advertisements.Address for all editorial and advertising correspondence: Porthole Cruise Magazine,6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA. Phone: (954) 377-7777. Fax: (954) 377-7000. Email: [email protected]. Visit our website:porthole.com. To subscribe: Call toll-free (800) 776-PORT or (760) 291-1550(International) 6 a.m.-5 p.m., Pacific time; Email us at [email protected]; faxus at (954) 377-7000; or write to Porthole Cruise Magazine, P.O. Box 469066,Escondido, CA 92046-9066, USA. Subscription rates: 1-year subscription (6 issues)USA: $19.95; Canada: US$24.95; all other countries: US$59.95 (first class); 2-yearsubscription (12 issues) USA: $29.95; Canada: US$39.95; all other countries:US$99.95 (first class). Florida residents, please add 6% sales tax.For questions about your current subscription, call toll-free(800) 776-PORT or email [email protected]. For Loyalty Club Members call toll-free (888) 746-5554 or [email protected].

The new PPI corporate logo design was inspired by Peter Man Lai Cheng, Senior Designer, ppigroup4 |

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NATALIE AROYAN has an extensivebackground in cruising, having worked for abrief stint aboard P&O Cruises’ Fair Princess in2000. She has sailed on almost 20 cruises inthe Americas, Australia, Bahamas, Caribbean,Europe, Mexico, New Zealand, and South Pacificsince. Passionate about the industry, Natalie is the dedicated cruisewriter for e-Travel Blackboard, Travel Now, Cruise Passenger Magazineand her own blog, Cruise in Review. She has also featured on radio andTV in both Australia and America discussing a range of topics fromcruising to beauty and relationships to celebrities.

SHAWN J. DAKE is a freelance journalistwho has written extensively about cruising andthe travel industry. In his nearly 40 years ofcruise experience, he has sailed on ships ofevery description to all seven continents and onall the major oceans of the world. He is a

regular contributor to the nautical website MaritimeMatters.comalong with a variety of print publications. After several years of work,he recently completed Shawn Dake's Worldwide Guide To Cruise Ships,which contains contemporary listings of facts and figures for everyocean-going passenger vessel in the world. He resides in Cypress,California, not far from two of his favorite tourist attractions,Disneyland and the Queen Mary.

CHRIS GRAY FAUST is the formertravel editor of USA Today and publisher of theaward-winning blog, Chris Around The World(http://caroundtheworld.com). When not on theroad, she works as a freelance writer and socialmedia consultant from her home in Seattle.

MATT HANNAFIN is a freelance writer,editor, and musician based physically inPortland, Oregon, and spiritually in hishometown of New York, New York. Author ofFrommer’s Day by Day Vancouver & Whistler,coauthor of Frommer’s Cruises & Ports of Call,

and daily blogger at Frommers.com, he’s written on topics rangingfrom speed traps and genealogical travel to minimalist art and the2008–2009 world financial crisis. His clients have includedcongressional candidates, global consulting firms, and U.N. agenciesas well as the usual newspapers, magazines, and websites.

BEN LYONS is a graduate of the U.S.Merchant Marine Academy. Fascinated by shipssince he was 5, he has been on more than 55cruises, ranging from clipper ships in Thailandto Mississippi riverboats and Caribbeanmegaships. He has served as chief officer onQueen Mary 2 and aboard Lindblad Expedition’s National GeographicExplorer in Antarctica and the Arctic. Lyons is currently taking a breakfrom life at sea by attending Columbia Business School, where hecontrasts life in a Manhattan classroom with more adventurous daysnavigating the National Geographic Explorer around icebergs.

LYNN and CELE SELDON have spentmore than 20 years covering all aspects of travelwriting and photography. They cover cruisetravel for a wide variety of publications,including Cruise Travel, CruiseCritic, AAAmagazines, the Atlanta Journal-Constitution,

and many in-flight publications. They were bitten by the cruise ship bugmore than 10 years ago and now frequently heed the call of the sea,with completed cruises and assignments in Antarctica, the Caribbean,Europe, Asia, Alaska, and Canada.

A former television news reporter, Houston-based freelance travel writer RICHARDVARR is a member of the Society of AmericanTravel Writers (SATW). His stories and photoshave appeared in publications and on websitesincluding AOL Travel, the Dallas Morning News,Christian Science Monitor, Sydney Morning Herald, Islands, The GoodSam Club’s Highways, AAA Home&Away, The Rotarian, and GermanLife. Richard researched and wrote the Dorling Kindersley EyewitnessTravel Guide to Philadelphia & The Pennsylvania Dutch Country.

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BALISS IMA COLLECTIONEffy designs an eclectic mix of world-class fine jewelry.

Explore the look of Calypso from the Balissima Collection — diamond and colored gemstones set in sterling silver and 18 karat gold.

EFFYJEWELRY.COM 1.877.ASK.EFFY

Alaska Aruba Bahamas Curaçao Grand Cayman Grand Turk New York Roatán San Juan St. Kitts St. Lucia St. Maarten St. Thomas

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what’s inside...FEATURESDECEMBER 2012 – ISSUE 182

A ROYALSHIPRETURNSThe AmericanQueen steamboatbrings back thegolden age ofriver cruising.Shawn J. Dake

HANGINGLOOSE ON THE WIND SURFWith the wind at our backs andthe surf in ourears, Windstargave us a journeyunlike any other.Ben Lyons

62CRUISINGDOWN UNDERWith morecruise linesadding Australiato their summerroutes, travelersnow have easieraccess to all thisfaraway land has to offer.Natalie Aroyan

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SHIPSPOTLIGHT

On the cover: Relaxing onboard by John Lamb/Getty ImagesFrom left to right: Ocean by Seabourn Cruise Line; American Queen by Shawn J. Dake; Sea of Cortez by InnerSea

Discoveries; bridge by Natalie Aroyan/Bridge Climb; Wind Surf by Harvey Lloyd; Chihuly by Michel Verdure

WHO’S UPFOR AN “UN-CRUISE”?Smaller linesjoin forces tounveil a newstrategy, luringguests whonormally mightnot cruise at all.Chris GrayFaust

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P O R T H O L E . C O M n T W I T T E R . C O M / P O R T H O L E C R U I S E n F A C E B O O K . C O M / P O R T H O L E C R U I S E n Y O U T U B E . C O M / P O R T H O L E C R U I S E

READERS’CHOICEAWARDSThe votes are in! Announcingthe winners of Porthole’s14th AnnualReaders’ ChoiceAwards.

36ART SAILSDramatic piecesaboard today’sships do morethan merelydecorate the walls.Matt Hannafin

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COLUMNSPUBLISHER’S LETTERBill Panoff

MYTHBUSTERAre cruises too regimented?Robert McGarvey

JETTING THERETravel expert Johnny Jet shares the gadgets you shouldn’t travel without.

JOIN THE CLUBSink you teeth into a vampire cruise! Clark Norton

DEPARTMENTSCONTRIBUTORS

SAVVY CRUISEROur roundup of the latest industry scoop and cool stuff to do in port. Sarah Diamond

LIKE A LOCALLearn all about Barbados as only a Bajan can tell it!Rosemary Parkinson

FOOD FOR THOUGHTStep aside, midnight pizza! There are plenty of new favorites to choose from at today’s gourmet buffets at sea.Lynn and Cele Seldon

BACK ISSUES

DESTINATION DISCOVERYSmall in size, Israel is not lacking for history and awe-inspiring sights.Richard Varr

SHOW US YOUR PORTHOLECheck out these photos of cruisers and the ever-iconic porthole!

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From left to right: pottery by Rosemary Parkinson;Israel by Richard Varr; sushi by Crystal Cruises

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HANDBAGS AND ACCESSORIESWWW.PARAZUL.COM

TAKE HOME A PIECE OF PARADISEParazul scarves and charms are available in many shapes and designs that can be mixed and matched with your bag selection. Patterned after favorite elements of the beautiful Caribbean and Alaska regions, they also make unforgettable mementos of your visit.

(TOP TO BOTTOM) White Tote Bag with Pink Hibiscus slim scarf Pink Hibiscus charm and Peace Sign charm

Metallic Scarf Bag with Pink Hibiscus large scarf and Heart Photo charm

Metallic Demi Bag with Bright Bloom slim scarf and Pink Hibiscus charm

Metallic Classic Bag with Peace Sign charm and Logo charm

PARAZUL IS AVAILABLE IN RETAILERS THROUGHOUT THE CARIBBEAN AND ALASKA VISIT WWW.PARAZUL.COM FOR RETAILER LOCATIONS

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P O R T H O L E . C O M n T W I T T E R . C O M / P O R T H O L E C R U I S E n F A C E B O O K . C O M / P O R T H O L E C R U I S E n Y O U T U B E . C O M / P O R T H O L E C R U I S E12

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Scan This! Throughout this issue of

Porthole, you’ll find this iconon select pages. Just scan itfrom your smartphone andlink to must-see videos thatare relevant to the stories

you’re reading. Get the freeMicrosoft Tag Reader app at

gettag.mobi. No smartphone?No problem! The same links

are available at Porthole.com.

Taking the Headache

out of ShoppingOn page 30, our travel expert Johnny Jet breaks down all the gear he travels

with, and shares which pieces you should incorporate into your carry-on.Thinking small is great for holiday shopping — after all, it’s what led to thebeloved stocking stuffer — but don’t be afraid to provide the stocking, if you will.Johnny Jet shares his personal favorite bag, but those that know me know that Ihave a new favorite every few weeks. Anyone who travels and cruises as much asI do loves to have options. Keep this in mind as you shop for loved ones, whetherthey’re bag-aholics or not; where there’s stuff, there should definitely besomething functional and beautiful in which to put said stuff. And, regardingluggage, there’s always room for one more option.The artwork on cruise ships these days is absolutely incredible, and on page 72,

Matt Hannafin highlights some of the more prominent artists at sea. Over the years,I’ve worked with a variety of charities and causes as an auctioneer, and in helping tosell artwork, I’ve found that much comes with the art besides the actual piece itself.The inspiration found within is quite personal to each buyer, but it is alsotransferrable. Those who give the gift of art are sharing something personal aboutthemselves with each piece, and for those on the receiving end of that gift, thatthoughtfulness makes all the difference. Whether it’s on your cruise ship or in thedestinations you visit, look for the art and crafts that move you; chances are, it willmove a loved one as well.Of course, if all other gift options fail, there’s a cruise itinerary out there for

everyone. Satisfaction guaranteed!

Bill PanoffPublisher/[email protected]

The holidays are approaching, which means holiday shopping willsoon become a priority. Obviously that can carry with it a lot of stress,especially if your idea of holiday shopping is navigating a cart through a labyrinth ofaisles and fellow shoppers, only to wait in whichever line you (mis)read as being thequickest. It happens every year to many of us, but if you were to approach shoppinglike you would approach an upcoming cruise, you would come out all the calmer andbetter off on the other side.For instance, this issue’s Like a Local department takes an insider’s look at

Barbados. As we do in every issue, we approach a writer who’s made that beautifuldestination home, and ask that writer about everything a cruiser would want to knowbefore stepping on land. You can find our writer’s tips on Barbadian markets to visitand authentic souvenirs to seek out on page 24, but even beyond those specifics, youcan take away insight from the exercise. Just as you would research a destinationbefore going there, think about the specific person you’re shopping for beforeleaving the house. If he or she has a specific interest, find out more about it fromthose who share that interest. A little prep work can save a lot of sweat andheadaches later.

invitingwhen the centerpiece

of the table is you

We invite you to rediscover. To reconnect in a way only a day at sea will allow. To dance,to dine, to raise a glass to the horizon. We invite you to consider our ship an elegant backdrop, and make it your own. We invite you, and we are at your service. To learn more, call your Travel Professional or 1-877-SAIL HAL, or visit www.hollandamerica.com.

Africa Alaska Asia & Pacific Australia New Zealand Canada New EnglandCaribbean Europe Panama Canal South America World Voyage

Ships’ Registry: The Netherlands

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Quark Expeditions, apioneer in polar travel,wants to make cruisingmore environmentallyfriendly by eliminating

greenhouse gases. Theirnewest ship, a 189-pass-

enger super yacht namedOcean Diamond, will now

be traveling to and fromAntarctica while leaving a carbon

footprint of zero. Although the tech-nology does not yet exist to let amodern cruise ship run on completelyclean energy, Quark will be offsettingnearly 5,682 tons of CO2 byinvesting in hydro and wind powerand reforestation projects, with thehope that these efforts will balancethe scales. This means that at no extraexpense, guests can enjoy their cruiseon the Ocean Diamond assured thattheir journey is green.


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Recently, Porthole was invited to the Seabourn Test Kitchen in Seattle to sample some of the line’s new recipes and dishes,created specially by Bjoern Wassmuth, manager of culinary operations. From delicious (and sustainably produced) jumboshrimp to juicy, succulent burgers, the new culinary offerings are sure to please as they’re rolled out to Seabourn’s ships.From left to right: Wassmuth; Rudi Sodamin, master chef and Holland America Line culinary consultant; JohanGroothuizen, Seabourn vice president of marine hotel operations; Richard Meadows, Seabourn president; ChristopherPrelog, Seabourn director of hotel operations; Bill Panoff, Porthole Cruise Magazine editor-in-chief.

Plate Sneak Peek

CleansingOn The EdgeAlways on the cusp of the mostluxurious trends, Celebrity Cruises haselevated the simple act of showeringinto a once-in-a-lifetime experience.Celebrity Reflection, which debuted inOctober, features a Reflection Suitewhere everything is designed intransparent glass, even the bathroom.The corner cabin’s most shockingfeature is the shower, a glass-encasedcube that extends over the edge of theship to offer jaw-dropping views of theocean below. Shy guests needn't worrythough; the “smart glass” is reflectiveso that no one can see in, and theopacity can be increased at just theflick of a switch. In addition to thesoothing rain shower, the newReflection Suite offers two bedroomsand 194 square feet of balcony space.

savvyCRUISER

BY SARAH DIAMOND

CARBON-NEUTRAL ON QUARK

Celebrity Cruises

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8With two more Longships on order, Viking RiverCruises has set a course for launching a whoppingeight new ships in one year, setting an industryrecord. The ships will be delivered in 2013, at atime when demand for river vessels has never beenhigher ... and innovative designs promise to makethem more comfortable than ever. In addition tothese new acquisitions, the company has plans tolaunch Viking Ocean Cruises, which would extendtheir reach to the high seas by 2015.

For up-to-the-minute Viking news — in case even more orders were placedsince we went to press — visit vikingrivercruises.com.


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For the first time in its history, Princess Cruises is basinga ship out of San Francisco. Grand Princess will be makingthe City by the Bay its homeport beginning in May 2013,with itineraries to Alaska followed by treks to Hawaii.

“Princess has been cruising from San Francisco nearlyas long as our company has been in operation,” says JanSwartz, Princess Cruises executive vice president. “OurBay Area passengers and travel agents have long beenasking for more cruise options from San Francisco, andour new year-round schedule with Grand Princess willnow give them a great selection of itinerary choices, plusthe benefit of sailing on a ship that offers our signaturefeatures and amenities.”

This relocation is a new step for Princess as well as forSan Francisco, a growing port that currently hosts 60 to80 cruise ships in its harbor.

“Having this ship sail under the Golden Gate Bridgeand berth at the foot of Coit Tower will be spectacular,both for the passengers on board and the people of SanFrancisco,” says Monique Moyer, executive director of thePort of San Francisco.

GRAND IN SAN FRAN

Porthole Magazine @PortholeCruise Who’s the most famous face you’ve seen on a#cruise?

Ed Konefe @Big_Ed_KonefeSaw Michael Andrew working on Carnival. He is now starring in the play, The Nutty Professor, directed by Jerry Lewis.

Chris Cognac @ChrisCognacWhoopi Goldberg

Jeannette Wilford @SookeTravelMr. Burns from the Simpsons look-alike... it was uncanny. I know, pretty lame. ;\

Brian Woodland @brian_woodlandStar of Coronation Street on @cunardline Queen Victoria

Sherry Laskin @CruiseMavenJohn Cleese, Richard Dreyfuss

DagmarD @DagmarDaghoferKatie Holmes & Adam Sandler on the same ship!

Tweet UpWe tweet questions, you tweet answers.

(And we publish our favorites!)

Princess Cruises

Multiplying Vikings



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Everyone loves Downton Abbey,the Emmy Award-winning seriescurrently airing on PBS. The Britishcostume drama has earned ravereviews both in America and acrossthe pond for its depiction of life on anEdwardian English estate during thedawn of World War I. Count VikingRiver Cruises as one of those fans, asthe line has agreed to sponsor theshow beginning with its third season,set to debut in early 2013.

This partnership not only allows11 million viewers to follow thestories of their favorite soldiers,housekeepers, and countesses, butalso gives cruisers a chance to see

the setting in person. Viking isarranging a Downton Abbeydestination cruise, with a specialpre- or post-trip excursion to grandHighclere Castle where the series isfilmed. Home of the Earl andCountess of Carnarvon, Highclere isa real running castle that sits on1,000 acres of beautiful parklandand gardens. Guests will enjoy anelegant Champagne welcome,followed by three full days exploringthe estate and the surroundingEnglish countryside.

If DVD marathons aren’t enoughDownton for you, find out how to getcloser at vikingrivercruises.com.

Everything you loved about the DespicableMe film — the hilarious characters, the over-the-top gadgets, and, of course, thememorable yellow minions — are all joiningforces again on the new Despicable MeMinion Mayhem attraction at UniversalStudios in Orlando. This time, however, youcan be a part of the action with a ride thatboasts a new storyline, new animation, and3-D technology and promises unforgettablefun and adventure.

“We’re so excited to introduce an entirelynew experience that truly captures all theheart, humor, and emotion audiences havecome to love about Despicable Me,” saidChris Meledandri, founder and CEO ofIllumination Entertainment. “Fans of thefilm can now interact with their favoriteDespicable Me characters in a way theyhaven’t been able to before.”

Be sure to check out the mayhem nexttime you’re at Universal Orlando Resort, andbe sure to look for the film’s sequel,Despicable Me 2, in theaters next summer.Th

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This June, the Tony Awards featured a special Broadway performance —live from the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. The show-stopping numberwas broadcast from Royal Caribbean’s Oasis of the Seas, where thesmash musical Hairspray has been running all season. This is the firsttime in history that a cruise ship has been featured on the awards show,and the cast made the most of it, performing a bright medley of the hitsongs “Good Morning Baltimore” and “The Nicest Kids in Town.” Hairspray, a pop musical about rock ‘n’ roll and equal rights in the 1960s,won eight Tony awards in 2002 and has been a crowd-pleaser eversince. It’s only the latest Broadway extravaganza to take to the water. Thisyear’s award-show performance was a chance to showcase the kind ofhigh-caliber entertainment that cruising now offers industry-wide.

TONY OF THE SEAS

Cruise to the Crawleys

Ringo Prophecy Fulfilled!

Proof that Beatlemania will never die, there is a new Liverpudlianattraction devoted to the Fab Four — in the shape of a Yellow Submarine floating

hotel. Businessman Alfie Bubbles has re-imagined the mythic vessel as a deluxedestination at Albert Dock. In its past life, this narrow boat was used to film The Hunt for Red

October, but now it’s painted to be a bubbly, bright-hued “moat-tel,” with lodging for threelucky guests. Despite slightly cramped quarters, the hotel features unexpected luxuries like

Wi-fi, 3-D televisions, and a psychedelic ’60s lounge that houses the authentic scooterfrom the 1979 film Quadrophenia. While you might not be able to live in the

Yellow Submarine as the song suggests, this quirky retro spot issure to offer a memorable night or two.

Universal Orlando Resort

Royal Caribbean International

Viking River Cruises


Coral CrazeThe most versatile accessory is a silk scarf;you can wear it around your neck, in your hair,tied at the waist, or even as an accent to your

handbag. In her new line of luxury beachwear,Sophia Rogge debuts a collection of luscious silk

scarves, each inspired by a different type of coral.Our favorite design is called Blue Fire Coral, a

watercolor blend of beryl and indigo modeled on apoisonous coral colony. These scarves are uniquely eco-

friendly, because 10 percent of all profits are sent toCorals for Conservation, a group that works to restore

damaged reefs. Find out more at sophiarogge.com.


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Fossil FindsCruisers weren't the only ones enchanted by the sea this

year, as evidenced by the fashion industry's obsessionwith all things oceanic. Jump on this under-the-seatrend with the latest jewelry offerings from Dezso.Designer Sara Beltran has created an etherealcollection where fossilized aquatic pieces are re-

imagined as chic accessories, such as this winsomeshell ring. A light fossil is upgraded by three polki

diamonds, each set in 18k rose gold. This Dezso piece,and other like it, can be found at barneys.com.

Soap FloatsWhen it comes to fun, fizzy cosmetics, LUSH's line of organic creams and soaps isthe best. Their newest gift box is called “Relax More,” and it’s stuffed full of small

bath-time pleasures designed to put you at ease. Scented with lavender,chamomile, and vanilla, the contents consist of a creamy herbal bath melt, a

French Kiss bubble bar, a Therapy massage bar, and two frothy bath bombs. It evenincludes a small pot of Dream Cream,

LUSH's best-selling body lotion made oforganic oat milk, olive oil, and cocoa

butter. This comfy kit would make theperfect holiday gift — but we wouldn't

blame you if you decided to keep it allfor yourself. To order, visit

lushusa.com.

Did you know that Russia hasn’t grantedregistration to a cruise ship in the last 25 years?That is, until Scenic Cruises, a river-basedtouring company, broke through that barrierrecently with the Scenic Tsar. To achieve thehonor, the 112-passenger vessel had toundergo a complete remodeling before it metthe Russian Maritime Authority’s notoriouslystrict criteria. The newly minted Scenic Tsar justcompleted its first fall season of cruisesbetween St. Petersburg and Moscow.To find out more, visit scenictours.com.

Royal Caribbean is partnering with WhodunitProductions and Jaborwhalky Productions to presenttheir first annual Steampunk Cruise. Primarily afashion and media movement, steampunk is a styleof high-tech Victoriana that draws inspiration fromvintage science fiction authors like Jules Verne andH.G. Wells. When Navigator of the Seas departs fromNew Orleans on March 16, 2013, it will doubtless befull of costumed passengers dressed in the trademarktop hats, long coats, corsets, and goggles that thegenre is best known for. From there, the ship willtake these fans on a 7-night vacation to GrandCayman, Jamaica, and Cozumel, with onboardactivities that embrace the industrialized-19th-century aesthetic. There will be English high tea, a Victorian swimsuit competition, a grand ball, “great mad scientist” monologues, and performancesby singer-songwriter Unwoman and the rock bandHellblinki Sextet. “Regal Guests” will include popularsteampunk writers G.D. Falksen, Jay Lake, and MaryRobinette Kowal.

For more information, visit steampunkcruise.com.

From Russia With Love

Steampunk Soiree

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wearin theworldwearin theworld


7 NIGHT SOUTHERN CARIBBEANCelebrity Summit

from San Juan visiting St. Thomas and Barbados, St. Lucia, Antigua, St. Maarten or St. Croix, St. Kitts, Dominica, Grenada

......................................................................................from $499

7 NIGHT EASTERN CARIBBEANCelebrity Reflection - New ship!

from Miami visiting San Juan, St. Maarten and St. Thomas or St. Kitts

......................................................................................from $699

4 & 5 NIGHTCARIBBEANCelebrity Constellation

from Miami visiting Grand Cayman, Jamaica or Key West

......................................................................................from $349

7 NIGHT ALASKACelebrity Century or Celebrity Solstice

from Seattle or Vancouver cruising the Inside Passage and Hubbard Glacier, Icy Strait or Tracy Arm Fjordand visiting Juneau, Ketchikan and more

......................................................................................from $699

7 NIGHT EASTERN OR WESTERN CARIBBEANCelebrity Silhouette - New ship!

from Ft. Lauderdale visiting San Juan, St. Thomas, St. Maarten or Grand Cayman, Cozumel, Bay Islands, Costa Maya

......................................................................................from $749

7 NIGHT BERMUDACelebrity Summit

from Bayonne, NJ visiting King’s Wharf, Bermuda

......................................................................................from $699

Ask Your Cruise Expert About These & Other Offers:

Our Cruise Experts Are Available 24/7/365!

Grand Foyer (Most Ships)

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12 NIGHT ADRIATICCelebrity Silhouette - New ship!

from Rome visiting Slovenia, Ravenna, Split, Dubrovnik, Montenegro, Bari, Malta, Sicily, Naples

............................................................................... from $1,849

12 NIGHT AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALANDCelebrity Solstice

from Sydney or Auckland cruising Milford Sound, Doubtful Sound, Dusky Sound and visiting Melbourne, Dunedin, Akoroa, Wellington, Tauranga

............................................................................... from $1,349

12 NIGHT SCANDINAVIA & RUSSIACelebrity Constellation

from Amsterdam visiting Berlin, Stockholm, Helsinki, St. Petersburg, Tallinn, Copenhagen

............................................................................... from $1,899

Terms & Conditions: All prices and itineraries are current at time of printing and subject to change without notice. Government taxes and fees are additional. Onboard spending offer is only valid for new bookings and only applicable on select sailings/stateroom categories. Onboard spending amount is quoted in U.S. dollars and is not redeemable for cash. Offer is subject to availability and may not be combinable with other savings/onboard credit offers. Spending amount will be applied by Celebrity Cruises prior to departure date. Reduced airfare offer applies to the first and second guests in a stateroom departing from select U.S. and Canadian gateways; ground transfers between airport and seaport are included on select sailings. All offers may be withdrawn at any time without prior notice. Additional restrictions may apply. ©2012 Celebrity Cruises, Inc. / Ships’ Registries: Ecuador & Malta

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10 OR 11 NIGHT EASTERN MEDITERRANEANCelebrity Reflection - New ship!

from Rome visiting Athens, Kusadasi, Rhodes, Santorini, Mykonos, Naples and Sicily or Istanbul

............................................................................... from $1,399

12 NIGHT MEDITERRANEAN & GREEK ISLESCelebrity Silhouette - New ship!

from Rome or Venice visiting Naples, Valetta, Athens, Mykonos, Kusadasi, Rhodes, Santorini, Crete

...............................................................................from $1,789

10 OR 11 NIGHT ULTIMATE CARIBBEANCelebrity Equinox

from Ft. Lauderdale visiting Cozumel, Bay Islands, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Grand Cayman or St. Thomas, St. Kitts, Barbados, Dominica, St. Maarten

............................................................................... from $1,099

Considered by many

the planet’s very best.

Cellar Masters (Select Ships)

What is Modern Luxury?

PH182_018-19 CELSpread_Layout 1 10/8/12 1:26 PM Page 19

cean views with a splash of magic.O

On board Disney Dream and the new Disney Fantasy, thrilling ocean views from AquaDuck are just the beginning. With relaxation for grown-ups, adventures just for kids and teens, and spectacular family fun, there’s magic on board for all ages. And with renowned Disney service, it’s truly the most magical cruise at sea. To learn more about our new ships and other exciting destinations, go to disneycruise.com/fantasy, call 1-888-272-0573 or visit your Travel Agent.

©Disney Ships’ Registry: The Bahamas

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DCL-12-23612

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Often that is precisely what I hearfrom people who have never cruisedwhen I suggest they go on one.

Glance at a daily schedule for anycruise on a big ship and you’d thinkevery minute is scripted. But thereality is that what you do is up to you.And what you don’t do is, too.

“A cruise can be as regimented as you want or you can have a totally free schedule,” says Carol Margolis, a frequent cruiser who blogs atPearlsofTravelWisdom.com

Carol Hull, who publishes the blogMy Itchy Travel Feet, agrees. “Myhusband and I have almost 300 cruisenights under our belt. Are cruise shipvacations too regimented? My answerwould be: it all depends on the cruiseline that you choose. A cruise ship thatoffers open seating and an assortment of

dining venues, a variety of entertainment,and an itinerary with a mix of ports andsea days isn't regimented at all.”

Travel agent Christine Hardenbergeradds: “As a travel agent who specializes incruises and a frequent cruiser myself, Ihave to say ‘No, way!’ Gone are the days

of forced fun that a lot of people still think of when they think of cruising. Today’scruises can be as laid back as passengers wants them to be!”

Personally, faced with so many cruises to choose among, I often set up detailed dailyschedules weeks before embarkation, even signing up long in advance for shoreexcursions and dinners in specialty restaurants. The payoff: I never hear, “ We are soldout,” and I get to do all I want. I also waste very little of my vacation time.

Then there’s my friend Gary, who cruises once a year. He packs light — in a smallduffel he has a few changes of casual clothes, but mainly it’s stuffed with a half-dozenthick paperback best sellers from the past year. That sets him up for a week’s cruise. Inthe morning he grabs a fast breakfast at the buffet, then snares a premium deck chair.He spends the day reading, sunning, maybe drinking a couple of specialty cocktails.Lunch is back at the buffet. When dinner comes, he may eat in a waiter-servicerestaurant, but if the buffet has good sushi, he’ll grab that and a beer or two.

“My job is high stress. Long hours. I love these laid-back cruises. They rechargeme,” he tells me.

At least one major cruise line pegs its marketing around the notion that cruisingtoday is as you want it. Norwegian Cruise Line offers freestyle cruising (“Cruising freeof set dining times or schedules so cruisers can enjoy a vacation on their own terms,”says Norwegian executive Marisa Scime) — but independent-minded cruisers canachieve much the same today on just about any ship.

That’s the new cruise reality: it is exactly as unregimented as you want. Or not. �

MYTHBUSTE

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There are long-lingering myths that, perhaps once true, long agowere turned into falsehoods by a continually innovating cruiseindustry. By now, most of us know cruising is for all ages, youngand old, for instance. But a stubbornly persistent myth — believedby so many — is: “Cruising is too regimented. I don’t want aholiday where people always tell me what to do, and when.”

Are Cruises Too Regimented?BY ROBERT MCGARVEYToday’s cruisers can tailor their travels.

Gandee Vasan/GettyImages

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1-800-TAKE-OFFor VacationOutlet.comDiscover the benefits of group travel. Call our group cruise experts at 1-800-259-1496!


Discover the pleasures of cruising with Holland America Line, the cruise industry’s recognized leader in the five-star “premium” segment.

“As You Wish®” dining

Food & Wine Magazine

Experiencea signature of excellence

Terms & Conditions: Fares are subject to availability and based on Promo(s) RH/HV. Fares shown are in U.S. dollars per person, based on double occupancy, and cruise or cruisetour only. All savings amounts are included in fares shown; government taxes and fees are additional and range from $68.66 to $1,259.06. Upgrade offer is valid on select sailings and select stateroom categories only. Third/fourth offer is based on third or fourth guests sharing a stateroom with first and second guests; third/fourth offer is based on Promo Z3 and available on select sailings only. Government taxes and fee will apply to third/fourth offer. Spending offer is valid on qualifying Holland America Line sailings departing by 12/20/2012. Amount varies based on departure date; maximum $125 in spending per stateroom. Spending offer does not apply to special fares, past-passenger fares, or last-minute “Flash” rates. All offers are capacity controlled and may be modified or withdrawn at any time without prior notice. Additional restrictions may apply. Ships’ Registry: The Netherlands.

Holland America Line has suspended its fuel supplement. Holland America Line reserves the right to reinstate its fuel supplement for all guests, up to $9.00 (per person, per day), should the price of light sweet crude oil rise above $70 per barrel according to the NYMEX (New York Mercantile Exchange Index).

7 Night Eastern or Western Caribbeanms Nieuw Amsterdam

from Ft. Lauderdale visiting Grand Turk Island, San Juan, St. Thomas or Grand Cayman, Costa Maya, Half Moon Cay (private island)

..........................................................................from $749

7 Night Alaskan Explorerms Westerdam

from Seattle cruising Glacier Bay and visiting Juneau, Sitka, Ketchikan, Victoria

..........................................................................from $849

10 Night Mediterranean Splendourms Eurodam

from Rome visiting Livorno, Monte Carlo, Barcelona, Mallorca, Tunisia, Sicily, Naples

.....................................................................from $1,399

7 Night Mediterranean Glamourms Ryndam

from Barcelona visiting Monte Carlo, Florence/Pisa, Rome, Sicily, Tunisia

..........................................................................from $999

10 & 11 Night Panama Canal Sunfarerms Zuiderdam

from Ft. Lauderdale cruising the Panama Canal and visiting Half Moon Cay (private island), Aruba, Curacao, Colombia, Panama, Costa Rica

.....................................................................from $1,299

7 Night New England & Canada Discoveryms Veendam

from Boston or Quebec City cruising Saguenay Fjord or the Gulf of St. Lawrence and visiting Bar Harbor, Halifax, Sydney, Prince Edward Island, Quebec City

..........................................................................from $799

2013 EARLY-ADVANTAGE SAVINGS OF UP TO 50%

UP TO $125 FREE ONBOARD SPENDING

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P O R T H O L E . C O M � T W I T T E R . C O M / P O R T H O L E C R U I S E � F A C E B O O K . C O M / P O R T H O L E C R U I S E � Y O U T U B E . C O M / P O R T H O L E C R U I S E24

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like a local

ARBADOSOn the

east coast

ChalkyMountpotters

BA DOSE OFSTORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROSEMARY PARKINSON

As a Caribbean food writer and consultant, Itravel a lot, and havebecome a nomad of

sorts currently laying medown to sleep in Barbados

— a pear-shaped islandsurrounded by azure seas and amazingcoral reefs. A tiny speck in the scheme ofthings, “The Rock,” as it’s lovingly knownby its inhabitants, has a land mass ofsome 166 square miles on which 280,000souls live, most descendants of Africa andthe United Kingdom. A smattering ofothers has created a potpourri of culturesand cuisine.

Tourist TipsThe island is more safe than not.

“Bajans” are friendly, but I recommendnot picking up just any local to show youaround — a free Barbados Holiday Mapdoes the trick. Getting lost has one rule:

all roads lead to Bridgetown. Bus stopssigns tell all: “Out Of City” means leavingBridgetown. “To City?” Obvious.

Buses are frequent and cheap — noexact time here. Just one dollar from onestop to another, or until signeddestination is reached. I suggest the blueor yellow ones; those little, white, pesky“ZRs” are to be only boarded if fast andfurious does not give heart attacks.

Rent a car for freedom. Pricesfluctuate, so shop around. Taxis areplentiful and drivers will act as touristguides, perhaps befriend you, and inviteyou home for Bajan nosh. Agree on aprice before boarding!

When you arrive, find the TouristBoard’s booth for the necessarycomplimentary publication, ExploreBarbados, which is pretty much on-the-spot. Tour operator Wayne Parravicinois local to the bone, and becomes atrusted friend immediately.

Off the Beaten PathThe coastline of the parishes of Christ

Church, St. Michael, St. James, and St.Peter will take you away from touristareas. Although Barbados is consideredoverpopulated (especially December 15to April 15), its “country” constitutesrolling hills, sugarcane plantations,farms, little villages, old mills, chattelhouses, huge homes — all dotted withinhills, gullies, and amazing cliffs. Baysand beaches abound, with hardly a soulto be seen. The north coast hascrashing waves, harsh rock formations;the east, rolling thunderous waves forkeen surfers.

Of the historic country churches, St.John is a must-visit. Visit Chalky Mount(St. Andrew) for traditional familypotters of local clay and, of course,incredible views.

Visits to rum shops: imperative.Besides offering plenty of the namesake

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liquid, they’re cheap and friendly. Whilethere, try “cutters” (bun with cheese,ham, gizzards, liver or fish) or fishcakes. As for your beverage, you can’tgo wrong with rum by the flask or bottle(Mount Gay Old is the best), with achaser of choice and bowl of ice.Barbados has some thousand rumshops — the university of life. RealBajans abound, albeit a tad inebriatedand boisterous, talking, quarrelling,arguing in — yes — English. Move withthe flow.

If It’s Free, It’s For MeFree is the air one breathes,

beaches, and sea. Dawns on east coast,sunsets on west — spectacularly free.So are Brighton Farmers Market (St.George) early Saturday morning,Redland Plantation (St. George) forjams, jellies, juices, and Sunday’sHolders Farmers’ Market (St. James).


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Sure, there are guidebooks that list every restaurant and attraction in destinationsaround the world. But Porthole’s “Like a Local” department goes straight to thecitizens, who truly know the way to go.

seasoning: chopped onions, herbs,peppers and lime, vinegar, and asprinkle of salt. Done.

Refuse french fries that have traveledthousands of miles. The best 100-percentBajan side dishes are breadfruit, sweetpotatoes, yams, peas and rice, macaronipie, coucou, coleslaw, and tossed salad.

Best fish? Snapper, barracuda, dolphin(not Flipper!), shark, tuna, swordfish, andmarlin on the grill or fried in coal pot. Thenational dish, flying fish, is seasoned ingrooves with Bajan seasoning, placed intraditional batter, and lightly fried.

On Thursday is Martin’s Bay (St. John)for Sharonne’s Fish Day. Every mannerof seafood is served up, from conch toseacat (octopus), with huge portions ofside dishes. Arrival at 11 a.m. will get youa seat by the beach.

Along the coast or near constructionsites, van ladies do a yeoman’s job for

continues on page 28

Cricket isseriousbusiness

Traditional seasonings:lime, herbs, and peppers

Born-and-bred Bajans, as well as thosewho planted themselves here andnever left, are there. These marketsprovide food and local goodies, amostly serene atmosphere, and a placeto make friends.

How Not to Look Like a TouristThose bright flowered shirts, straw

hats, and cameras are a sure giveaway.Rub off that tourist stamp on yourforehead, and be natural. Also, this is aholiday, not a New York rush. Patiencehas to be your virtue. Bajans are asaggressive as you are … just “coolyuhself” and all will be well.

Eat Around the TownOn Friday and Saturday, everyone

flocks to Oistins on the south coast fordancing and food. Be sure to say no U.S.hickory or any other barbecue sauce,and no powdered seasoning. Traditional

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from

$549

5 & 6 NIGHT BERMUDAExplorer of the Seas®

or Enchantment of the Seas® from Bayonne, NJ or Baltimore visiting King’s Wharf, Bermuda

from

$329

4 & 5 NIGHT WESTERN CARIBBEANLiberty of the Seas® or Jewel of the Seas® from Ft. Lauderdale or Tampa visiting Cozumel & more

from

$499

7 NIGHT SOUTHERN CARIBBEANBrilliance of the Seas® or Adventure of the Seas® from San Juan visiting St. Thomas & St. Lucia, Guadeloupe, Antigua, St. Croix or St. Kitts, Aruba, Curacao

PACK EVEN

MORE INTO YOUR CRUISE FOR LESS

from

$199

3 & 4 NIGHT BAHAMASMajesty of the Seas® or Monarch of the Seas®

from Miami or Port Canaveral visiting CocoCay (private island), Nassau, Bahamas

from

$499

7 NIGHT BAHAMASExplorer of the Seas® or Enchantment of the Seas® from Bayonne, NJ or Baltimore visiting Port Canaveral, Nassau, CocoCay (private island)

from

$499

7 NIGHT WESTERN CARIBBEANMariner of the Seas® or Navigator of the Seas®

from New Orleans or Galveston visiting Bay Islands, Belize City, Cozumel


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from

$599

7 NIGHT WESTERN OR EASTERN CARIBBEANFreedom of the Seas®

from Port Canaveral visiting Jamaica, Grand Cayman, Cozumel or St. Thomas, St. Maarten & more

from

$599

7 NIGHT EASTERN MEDITERRANEANNavigator of the Seas®

from Rome visiting Sicily, Kusadasi, Athens, Crete

from

$649

9 & 10 NIGHT CARIBBEANExplorer of the Seas® from Bayonne, NJ visiting St. Maarten, St. Kitts, San Juan, Private Island

7 NIGHT WESTERN OR EASTERN CARIBBEANAllure of the Seas®

or Oasis of the Seas® - New ships!from Ft. Lauderdale visiting Jamaica, Cozumel, Private Island or St. Thomas, St. Maarten, Nassau

from

$749

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from

$999

12 NIGHT MEDITERRANEANSerenade of the Seas® from Barcelona visiting Cannes, Livorno, Rome, Salerno, Venice, Ravenna, Dubrovnik

from

$799

7 NIGHT WESTERN MEDITERRANEANLiberty of the Seas®

from Barcelona visiting Toulon, Villefranche-Sur-Mer, Livorno, Rome, Naples

THE ONE VACATION

WITH SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE

Terms & Conditions: Prices shown are per person, based on double occupancy (cruise only), and available on select sailings. Prices shown are for specific stateroom categories, as noted, and are in U.S. dollars. Government taxes and fees are additional. Airfare, unless otherwise indicated, is not included. Prices and itineraries are based on availability and subject to change without notice. Prices and itineraries will vary by ship and by sail date. Onboard spending offer is applicable for select stateroom categories aboard select sailings; spending amount varies by itinerary. Spending amounts shown are in U.S. dollars, may not be redeemed for cash, and cannot be used in conjunction with certain fares. Offer cannot be combined with other onboard credits or dollars-off coupons aboard the same sailing and is not transferable. Eligibility is based on when the booking is created, not deposited, or on date of final payment. All offers are valid for new individual bookings only and are not applicable to groups. All offers are subject to availability and may be withdrawn at any time without prior notice. Additional restrictions may apply. ©2012 Royal Caribbean Cruises, Ltd. / Ships’ Registry: Bahamas

22 ships to sail on? Check. Over 10 decks’ worth of experiences on

every ship? Check. An incredible 260 worldwide destinations to

choose from? Check. Fantastic value for your money and a whole

lot more than you expected? Check.

No matter what you want from your cruise vacation, you’ll find

it aboard Royal Caribbean’s amazing fleet of ships. Scale a rock-

climbing wall or ride the waves on a surfing simulator. Relax by the

pool or chill out on your very own balcony. Then there’s the fine dining options, stylish

bars, and glamorous casinos.

A Royal Caribbean voyage is truly several vacations in one. The best experience, in

the bag? Check.

Royal Caribbean has been setting industry standards for more than forty years and

counting. The world’s most innovative collection of cruise ships has long offered

passengers an unparalleled number of “firsts” including rock-climbing walls, ice-

skating rinks, bungee trampolines, and surfing simulators.

Always a popular choice with active cruisers, Royal Caribbean is also an excellent

option for families and travelers in search of a more relaxing vacation experience.

There’s something onboard for everyone, regardless of age or

interests – the award-winning Adventure Ocean® youth

program, an array of specialty restaurants, the adults-

only Solarium, and an ever-expanding

selection of spa treatments.

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around $7.50 a plate. Food vendors havehealth certificates, so under normalcircumstances, street food is safe.

Upstairs at the Cheapside Market(Bridgetown), Miss Harriett serves top-quality local traditional meals at down-to-earth prices — $9 for a plateful, mentionmy name and Harriett is all yours!

Pudding and souse is an acquiredtaste but you should try it once; what’snot to love about pickled pork with lime,pepper, cucumbers, accompanied by asteamed pudding made of Caribbeansweet potato with spices placed into theintestine and served as sausage?

For fine dining, as well as chicshopping of the world's most stylishbrands, Limegrove Lifestyle Centre inhistoric Holetown should not be missed.

Whatever you do, don’t . . .Barbados is picturesque all over, so

cameras are a must. Photographingscenery and roaming green monkeys orthe odd mongoose — free and perfectlyfine. Locals are beautiful and photogenic,too, but do not take photos withoutpermission. Ask politely. If you get a no,please adhere or a royal cuss with floralexpletives will follow.

The Best $10 You’ll Ever SpendOn the south coast, get delicious local

ice cream at Chilly Moo’s QuaysidePlaza, or try beef potato pumpkin roti at

the Indian Grill in Bayside Plaza. Add acouple more dollars for a burger fromChopping Board Kitchen at Mojo’s —you won’t regret it.

IcebreakerBuy a Daily Nation newspaper; Bajans

love to expound on any and everything… and they might even know more thanyou about what’s going on in the rest ofthe world. Politricks and cricketknowledge is a must!

Meet the Mayor (Sort of)After 5 p.m., go to Charlie’s Bar &

Grill on the south coast’s Maxwell CoastRoad. Charlie’s “crazy” self is alwaysthere; his jokes are free, and his nosh isgood, too.

Work With Me, PeopleOn the east coast, up the steep hill

towards Andromeda Botanical Gardens,as you reach the sign post that says“SeaU Guest House,” find a spot to puton those brakes, get out of the car, lookto the north. This particular view is aphotographer’s joy and will take yourbreath away. Brings tears to my eyesevery time.

Gotta Have ItA print or painting from Corrie

Scott. You’ll love her renditions of thegreen monkey. They’re available at

The Barbados Arts Council, PelicanVillage. Although not user-friendly(too much concrete), there are manyshops with really good crafts. Choosethe ones not made in China but by ourvery own artisans.

For the Jeopardy FileMany Bajans left these shores in the

early days to settle in the Carolinas, andstrong ties between families still exist.The national anthem lyrics were writtenby Irving Burgie (aka Lord Burgess),born in the United States to a Bajanmother and American father. �

In the Know• There are many websites onBarbados, from tourist- to local-oriented, but don’t miss CorrieScott’s monthly arts information:http://issuu.com/corriescott/docs• Some of the best travel tips can be found in Barbados Pocket Guide (barbadospocketguide.com),especially their section onbookstores. Three good ones:Cloister, Days, and Pages. • There are free publications availableeverywhere. MACO People gives an insight to who’s who and who’shere in Barbados.• For safety, it is best to avoid NelsonStreet in Bridgetown (particularly at night) and North Point Lighthouseif alone. • When in need of a public restroom,just ask a local. Restrooms are inmarkets, malls, business houses,hotels, and restaurants — most ingood order.

continued from page 25L to R: Rum by flasks or bottle; Barbados is picturesque all over; try local sandwiches called cutters.

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2. SMARTPHONEI use a Blackberry because of the superiorinternational plan I have. Since it’s inferior forusing apps, I also carry the new Windowsphone. But an iPhone/Android does the trick as well. (Tip: If traveling internationally, be sureto turn off your data and cell service and useWi-Fi whenever possible to avoid hefty bills.)3. PROTECTIONTo keep gadgets like my phone dry and sand-free, I use a SealLine E-Case when I go to thebeach. The cases are completely submersibleand clear so I can still type, take pictures, andeven talk on my phone without taking it out ofits protective case. 4. NOISE-CANCELING HEADSETMost seasoned travelers carry noise-cancelingheadsets. Why? Because they block out theairplane’s droning hum and muffle all the soundson an airplane that prevent you from catchingsome shuteye. Bose is the industry leader butthey’re also the most expensive at $300 a pop. 5. MUSICTo relax or drown out the noise of being on anairplane, I carry an iPod.6. MINI SURGE PROTECTORWhenever I travel overseas or go on a cruise, Ibring a mini surge protector. It has three poweroutlets and a built-in, two-port USB charger. Itallows me to power up and charge my laptop,camera, and cell phone all at one time withouthaving to hunt for multiple outlets or carry asmall load of electrical adapters. It’s lightweightand is available at Belkin.com.

7. INTERNATIONAL ELECTRICAL ADAPTER I always carry this so I don’t need a bag full ofmultiple adapters for every country. Mine hasfour different electrical prongs built into thesurge protector and it works almost everywhere.It’s also small and lightweight. I bought mine atRadio Shack for around $24, but you can findeven better deals on Amazon.com.8. EARPLUGS AND AN EYE MASKI never, ever leave home without earplugs andan eye mask. I can’t sleep on planes withouteither, and sometimes they come in handy if myhotel room is loud or doesn’t have blackoutcurtains. Pass on the cheap, scratchy eyemasks that airlines sometimes hand out andspend $10 on a fluffy Lewis N. Clark one thatwill leave you feeling refreshed when you wake.9. A GOOD CAMERAAt $1,400, this is one of the most expensivetravel purchases I’ve ever made, but if you’regoing on a special trip, it’s worth it. Cell phonecameras do a pretty good job but not great —get a good camera so you can capture everymemorable moment. My Nikon D7000 takesgreat pictures and HD video as well. 10. TRAVEL UMBRELLAI always pack a small travel umbrella. If theweather looks iffy, I can stick it in my back pocketsince it’s so tiny. I got mine at TJ Maxx for $15.

So now that everything is laid out beforeyou, it’s just a matter of putting it all in yourcarry-on and heading out. Happy travels! �


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jetting there

Critical Carry-OnsSince I travel so much (approximately

150,000 miles and 20-plus countries a year),people always ask me what kind of gear Itravel with. So I opened up my bags to seeexactly what’s inside. Here’s what I found:

Let’s start with luggage. First of all, I don’tcheck bags; this would add about an hour toeach trip. By traveling with carry-on only, Idon’t have to worry about the airline losing it.And traveling light makes it easier for me totake public transportation, avoiding costlycabs and car services. The secret to packingis to dress in layers and wear your bulky itemson the plane. If you’re going to a colddestination, wear your coat and sweater andstuff your hat and gloves in the pockets.

I use Briggs & Riley’s wheeled briefcase,which fits under any airplane’s seat and hasall my electronics, medicines, magazines, andmoney. I don’t ever check this bag. Strappedon top is a brown leather tote from Roots thathas all my clothes. It can fit in almost anyoverhead bin except those on regional jets orprop planes. In those instances, I gate checkthat bag.

Aside from bags, here are the 10 mostimportant things I travel with:

1. SCOTTEVEST CLOTHINGScottevest makes the ultimate travel jacketsand clothes. Their clothing has multiplehidden pockets — in some cases, as many as26. They’re perfect for hiding your valuablesand for carrying all your gadgets so you don’thave to put them in your luggage.

Travel expertJohnny Jet

highlights thegear you

shouldn’t leavehome without.

Jason Hetherington/GettyImages

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Lots of days turn out special, mostly because you put your heart and soul into making them that way for the ones you love. That’s just what women do.

Come and discover the Royal Jewelers difference. A store created by a woman to deliver what every woman needs...to be treated like Royalty!

Special days don’t just happen.

Skagway Juneau Cabo San Lucas Marina 8-6, Harbourside, Cabo San Lucas

Here it just feels right. ALASKA * MEXICAN RIVIERA * CARIBBEAN

PH182_031 RJ_Layout 1 10/8/12 1:35 PM Page 31

11 DAY SCANDINAVIA & RUSSIAEmerald Princess® from Copenhagen visiting Oslo, Aarhus, Berlin, Tallinn, St. Petersburg, Helsinki, Stockholm

June 3, 2013 .......................................................................................Cat. IF Interior Stateroom $2,099

12 DAY GREEK ISLESRuby Princess® from Rome or Venice visiting Dubrovnik, Corfu, Katakolon, Athens, Mykonos, Kusadasi, Santorini, Naples

August 28, 2013 ................................................................................ Cat. ID Interior Stateroom $2,149

12 DAY BRITISH ISLES Caribbean Princess® from London visiting Channel Islands, Cork, Dublin, Belfast, Glasgow, Orkney Islands, Inverness/Loch Ness, Edinburgh, Paris/Normandy

June 5, 2013 ...................................................................................... Cat. ID Interior Stateroom $2,199

12 DAY GRAND MEDITERRANEANRoyal Princess® (Brand-New Ship) from Barcelona or Venice visiting Toulon, Livorno, Rome, Naples, Mykonos, Istanbul, Kusadasi, Athens

July 17, 2013 ..................................................................................... Cat. ID Interior Stateroom $2,299

14 DAY BALTIC HERITAGECrown Princess® from London visiting Brussels, Copenhagen, Stockholm, Helsinki, St. Petersburg, Tallinn, Gdansk, Oslo

July 13, 2013 ..................................................................................... Cat. ID Interior Stateroom $2,799

14 DAY SCANDINAVIA & RUSSIA COLLECTIONOcean Princess® from London visiting Copenhagen, Klaipeda, Riga, Tallinn, St. Petersburg, Helsinki, Stockholm, Kiel Canal, Amsterdam

July 15, 2013 ..................................................................................... Cat. IC Interior Stateroom $3,599

Movies Under The Stars® (Most Ships)

Ask About Captain’s Circle® Member Benefits!

Plus, Receive Up To $85 FREE Onboard Spending!

Europe is a fine bottle of wine, waiting to be gently uncorked, sipped, and savored.

Explore the Old World in unparalleled comfort. Dock and navigate lands that look as if carved straight out of a storybook: towering mountain ranges, ancient works of art, stone and iron-wrought castles. Princess brings it all to life.

With over 130 ports of call for you to explore, your truly European experience will be anything but ordinary. Exciting voyages will place you in front of the colorful, otherworldly beauty of legendary cathedrals on an 11-day cruise through Scandinavia and Russia. Or sample local cheeses and luxuriate in the sun on an unforgettable 12-day journey through the Greek Isles. And don’t miss the chance to sail aboard the new Royal Princess®, launching in 2013. With an expanded atrium, an exclusive top-deck, adults-only swimming pool, and capacity for 3,600 guests, it stands as a shining example of Princess standards and an opportunity of a lifetime.

Still looking for more? There’s a way to transform your next Princess cruise into an even grander adventure: a cruisetour. Combining the luxury of a Princess cruise with extended land-side stays and inland destinations, you’ll spearhead into the heart of European countries for a truly authentic experience. Come and discover the famous service that has won Princess the title “Cruise Line with Highest Client Satisfaction” by TravelAge West magazine.

Brand-New Royal Princess®

Venice, Italy

withExplore

Our Cruise Experts Are Available 24/7/365!1-800-288-6006 or Cruises.comDiscover the benefits of group travel. Call our group cruise experts at 1-800-259-2408!

Terms & Conditions: Fares are per person, cruise-only, based on double occupancy and apply to the first two passengers in a stateroom. These fares do not apply to singles or third/fourth-berth passengers. Fares apply to minimum lead-in categories. Please contact your travel agent for third/fourth-berth fares. This offer is based on space availability, is capacity controlled and may not be combinable with any other public, group or past passenger discount, including shipboard credits. offer is not transferable and is available to residents of the 50 United states, Canada, Puerto Rico, Mexico and the district of Columbia who are 21 years of age or older and receive this offer. Fares quoted in U.S. dollars.Princess reserves the right to impose a fuel supplement of up to $9 per person per day on all passengers if the NYMEX oil price exceeds $70 per barrel, even if the fare has already been paid in full. See the applicable Princess Cruises brochure for terms, conditions and definitions that apply to all bookings. Certain restrictions apply.

PH182_032 PRINccom_Layout 1 10/8/12 1:36 PM Page 32

Our Cruise Experts Are Available 24/7/365!1-800-288-6006 or Cruises.comDiscover the benefits of group travel. Call our group cruise experts at 1-800-259-2408!

Terms & Conditions: Fares are per person, cruise-only, based on double occupancy and apply to the first two passengers in a stateroom. These fares do not apply to singles or third/fourth-berth passengers. Fares apply to minimum lead-in categories. Please contact your travel agent for third/fourth-berth fares. This offer is based on space availability, is capacity controlled and may not be combinable with any other public, group or past passenger discount, including shipboard credits. offer is not transferable and is available to residents of the 50 United states, Canada, Puerto Rico, Mexico and the district of Columbia who are 21 years of age or older and receive this offer. Fares quoted in U.S. dollars.Princess reserves the right to impose a fuel supplement of up to $9 per person per day on all passengers if the NYMEX oil price exceeds $70 per barrel, even if the fare has already been paid in full. See the applicable Princess Cruises brochure for terms, conditions and definitions that apply to all bookings. Certain restrictions apply.

Ask About Captain’s Circle® Member Benefits!

Plus, Receive Up To $85 FREE Onboard Spending!

Add 4 Days On Land To A 7-Day Alaska Cruise From Just $399 & More!

Majesty: it’s a word used to describe Mother Nature at her most ferocious.

From snow-peaked mountains and herds of caribou charging across the landscape to impossibly-tall glaciers frozen in time, an Alaska cruise with Princess will be an adventure of a lifetime. Step onto the balcony of your luxuriously appointed Princess cruise ship and see it all unfold before you: the smell of crisp air, the stunning quiet, and the undisturbed natural beauty.

Specialty sailings such as the 7-day Voyage of the Glaciers will let you coast by the mammoth ice shelves that shaped our world; in addition, you’ll stop in at friendly frontier towns and visit the spectacular Glacier Bay National Park. There’s also the 10-day Inside Passage cruise to consider: a fantastic journey that will walk you through the rich history of the gold rush in Southeastern Alaska.

Alaskan cruisetours unpack your authentic experience even further. Spectacular deals on land and air – in combination with the world-renowned service and attention of Princess – make cruisetours exceptional deals. Carve your way inland to Wrangell Saint Elias National Park, the Kenai Peninsula, Denali, and beyond by means of ship, rail, ferry, and bus. National Park Rangers and Alaskan experts will be right on your cruise ship for educational presentations to help you prepare for your next adventure.

7 DAY INSIDE PASSAGE FROM SEATTLEGolden Princess® from Seattle cruising Tracy Arm Fjord and visiting Ketchikan, Juneau, Skagway, Victoria

June 2, 2013 .............................................................................. Cat. ID Interior Stateroom $899

7 DAY INSIDE PASSAGE WITH GLACIER BAYStar Princess® from Seattle cruising Glacier Bay and visiting Juneau, Skagway, Ketchikan, Victoria

June 22, 2013 ....................................................................... Cat. ID Interior Stateroom $1,099

10 DAY DENALI EXPLORER LAND & SEA VACATIONIsland Princess® from Vancouver to Anchorage 7-day Voyage of the Glaciers Cruise; 1-night Mt. McKinley Princess Wilderness Lodge; 1-night Denali Princess Wilderness Lodge; 1-night Fairbanks

May 13, 2013 ........................................................................ Cat. ID Interior Stateroom $1,298

10 DAY INSIDE PASSAGE FROM SAN FRANCISCOGrand Princess® from San Francisco cruising Tracy Arm Fjord and visiting Ketchikan, Juneau, Skagway, Victoria

June 9, 2013 ..........................................................................Cat. ID Interior Stateroom $1,349

11 DAY DENALI EXPLORER ON YOUR OWN LAND & SEA VACATIONDiamond Princess® day 1: Fairbanks; day 2: Fairbanks/Denali; day 3: Denali; day 4: Denali/Mt. McKinley; day 5: Mt. McKinley/Whittier followed by embarkation of 7-day Voyage of the Glaciers Cruise

May 25, 2013 ........................................................................ Cat. ID Interior Stateroom $1,598

11 DAY VOYAGE OF THE GLACIERS LAND & SEA VACATION Sapphire Princess® from Vancouver to Anchorage 7-day Voyage of the Glaciers Cruise; 2-night Denali Princess Wilderness Lodge; 1-day Mt. McKinley Wilderness Lodge

July 27, 2013 .........................................................................Cat. IF Interior Stateroom $2,198

Tracy Arm Fjord, Alaska

withExplore

PH182_033 PRIN2ccom_Layout 1 10/8/12 1:37 PM Page 33

AWARDS

PORTHOLE2012READERS’ CHOICE

Votes are in! the

For 14 years, Porthole CruiseMagazine has gone to the highestauthority — you, our readers — tofind out what’s best at sea. And for14 years, you’ve come through,making the tough choices in amyriad of categories that haveevolved right alongside the excitingworld of cruising. We thank you forvoting your favorites, and wish tocongratulate the cruise lines who’vedefinitely earned these accolades.

Congratulations are also in orderfor Yvonne Janik, who was thewinner of this year’s RCA sweepstakesand its grand prize — a 7-day cruise fortwo on a Norwegian Cruise Line ship!Yvonne, an eighth-grade Englishteacher from Plano, Texas, has cruisedduring each of her holidays the last twoyears. “I always wondered why peoplewould want to be cooped up on a shipand in tiny little cabins,” she said, “andthen I cruised and totally understood thelove of cruising and being on big ships.Meeting people from around the worldis a great adventure in itself, as well asexperiencing a bit of the culture in othercities and countries.”

The 2012 winners

rca winner

PH182_034 CX_ ph132 master 10/15/12 11:56 AM Page 34

INTRODUCING

THE ALL-NEW NORWEGIAN BREAKAWAY

Make way for Norwegian Cruise Line’s latest masterpiece .

The fi rst-in-class Norwegian Breakaway, Norwegian Cruise Line’s latest expression of Free-style Cruising®, blends the best of Norwegian’s groundbreaking Epic and beloved Jewel-class with a host of new innovations to create an entirely new experience at sea.

There’s The Haven By Norwegian™, an exclusive and suite-only “ship within a ship” reserved for only a privileged few; The Waterfront and 678 Ocean Place, three dynamic decks’ worth of indoor and outdoor restaurants, bars, entertainment, shops, and gaming designed to enhance guests’ connection with the open seas; Splash Academy, the largest collection of youth and teen facilities ever featured aboard a Norwegian vessel, spanning two full decks; fi fteen unique dining venues, including the all-new Ocean Blu and Ocean Blu on the Waterfront; accommodations rivaling any-thing found in today’s top boutique hotels; and one-of-a-kind hull artwork painted by iconic pop artist Peter Max. Norwegian Breakaway will also enjoy the distinction of being the largest cruise ship to ever homeport in New York City.

Hidden away at the top of the vessel, The Haven is everything its name implies. This private enclave at sea, exclusively accessed and previously unavailable aboard any ship in the Norwegian fl eet, is home to Breakaway’s most luxurious accommodations, 24-hour butler service, a private beach club, a private restaurant, and a great deal more.

Prepare to breakaway.From the routine.

From the expected.From it all.


1-800-CRUISES or CruisesOnly.comDiscover the benefi ts of group travel. Call our group cruise experts at 1-888-WOW-GROUPS! (1-888-969-4768)

Terms & Conditions: Prices are in U.S. dollars per person (based on double occupancy) and do not include government taxes and fees or airfare (unless otherwise indicated). Onboard spending amount is in U.S. dollars per stateroom and based on the category booked; applicable on select suites or higher categories aboard select cruises booked at least nine months prior to departure. Spending amount will be applied to the fi rst and second guests in a stateroom. AARP discount of up to 5% is valid on select cruises booked at least nine months prior to departure. Proof of AARP membership, along with date of birth and zip code, is required at time of booking. If guest’s AARP membership cannot be verifi ed, booking(s) will be repriced and guests will be responsible for the difference in cruise fare. NCL reserves the right to charge a fuel supplement, without prior notice, should the closing price of West Texas Intermediate Fuel rise above $65 per barrel on the NYMEX. In the event a fuel supplement is charged, NCL will have sole discretion to apply the supplementary charge to both new and existing bookings (regardless of whether such bookings have been paid in full). These supplementary charges are not included in your cruise fare; the fuel supplement will not exceed $10 per passenger, per day. All offers are capacity controlled, subject to availability, and may be withdrawn at any time without prior notice. Ships’ Registry: Bahamas

Norwegian Breakaway will begin sailing out of New York City in May of 2013. Be among the fi rst to climb aboard this amazing creation.

7-Night Bermuda from New York (May - October 2013)7-Night Bahamas & Florida from New York (Fall & Winter, 2013 & 2014)

NOBODY BEATS CRUISESONLY’S PRICES: IT’S GUARANTEED.Contact Their Experts Today To Book Your Breakaway Sailing.

PH182_035 NCLbreak_Layout 1 10/8/12 1:38 PM Page 35


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Best Small Ship (Fewer than 500 passengers)

Seabourn SojournSeabourn Cruise Line

Best Medium-Sized Ship (Between 500 and 2,000 passengers)

Crystal SerenityCrystal Cruises

Best Megaship (At least 2,000 passengers)

Norwegian EpicNorwegian Cruise Line

Best Tall ShipWind SurfWindstar Cruises

Best River CruiseAmaWaterways Best Value-for-the-Money LineCarnival Cruise LinesBest Luxury LineSeabourn Cruise LineMost Family-Oriented LineDisney Cruise Line

Best Cruise Line for TeensRoyal CaribbeanInternationalBest Cruise Line for Solo TravelersNorwegian Cruise LineMost Romantic Cruise LineWindstar CruisesBest Eco-Friendly Cruise LineRoyal CaribbeanInternationalBest Adventure Cruise LineRoyal CaribbeanInternationalBest Expedition Cruise LineLindblad ExpeditionsBest Short-Duration CruiseNorwegian Cruise LineBest Shore ExcursionsHolland America LineBest Private IslandHalf Moon CayHolland America Line

float your boat

Seabourn Cruise Line

PH182_034-39 RCA_ ph132 master 10/10/12 3:14 PM Page 36

Best Onboard ActivitiesRoyal Caribbean InternationalBest Onboard Educational ProgramsCunard LineBest Main Dining Room CuisineCelebrity CruisesBest Alternative RestaurantsNorwegian Cruise LineBest AccommodationsSeabourn Cruise LineBest Computer FacilitiesHolland America LineBest CasinosNorwegian Cruise LineBest Fitness FacilitiesNorwegian Cruise LineBest Spa FacilitiesDisney Cruise Line

Best Onboard ShoppingPrincess CruisesBest Medical FacilitiesHolland America LineBest Facilities for Physically Challenged PassengersHolland America LineBest Children's ProgramsDisney Cruise LineBest EntertainmentCarnival Cruise LinesBest ServiceSilversea CruisesBest Websitewww.vikingrivercruises.comViking River CruisesBest Theme CruisesCarnival Cruise Lines

all a

boar

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Norwegian Cruise Line



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Best Caribbean ItinerariesCarnival Cruise LinesBest Alaska ItinerariesHolland America LineBest Canada/New England ItinerariesHolland America LineBest Hawaii ItinerariesNorwegian Cruise LineBest Mexican Riviera ItinerariesCarnival Cruise LinesBest Central America ItinerariesHolland America LineBest South America ItinerariesCelebrity CruisesBest Northern Europe ItinerariesRegent Seven Seas CruisesBest Mediterranean ItinerariesCosta CruisesBest Asia/Pacific ItinerariesCosta CruisesBest South Pacific ItinerariesPaul Gauguin CruisesBest Africa/Middle East ItinerariesMSC CruisesBest Bermuda ItinerariesNorwegian Cruise LineBest Trans-Atlantic ItinerariesCunard LineBest Australia/New Zealand ItinerariesP&O CruisesBest World Cruise ItinerariesCunard Line

hot spotsand coolplaces


coming soon....porthole digital edition

everything you love about Porthole

everywhere you look

portholecruise: find us

.com


The AmericanQueen steamboat

brings back thegolden age ofriver cruising.

ship spotlight

PH182_040-47 american queen_ ph132 master 10/10/12 11:43 AM Page 40

A Royal Ship ReturnsSTORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHAWN J. DAKE


There are few things more closely tied to the heart of Americana than the sightof a paddle-wheel steamboat. Ever since the first trip down the Mississippi in 1811,there have been hardworking little boats and the floating palaces immortalized byMark Twain in his novels and essays. Out of the thousands of steamboats to comebefore it, the American Queen is the only overnight passenger vessel propelled bysteam that remains in service in the United States.

The American Queen was rechristened on April 27, 2012, by Priscilla Presley,appropriately in its home port of Memphis, Tennessee. The city has played anintegral part in bringing this iconic steamboat back into service. Many of thecruises now depart from the new Beale Street Landing, specially constructed tohandle the growing influx of visitors by river.

It begins with a hiss that builds into a melodic whoosh, asclouds of steam pour out of the brass whistles. A bright redpaddle wheel churns the water. The steamboat AmericanQueen is back, returning to the Mississippi and Ohio rivers afteran absence of nearly four years. Significantly, it also signals thatcruising is returning to the rivers of America, which in recentyears have largely been ignored, while European river cruisinghas grown at an astoundingly fast pace.

American Queen in Madison, Indiana, on her first return to the Ohio River



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The largest river steamer ever, the American Queen was built in 1995 to carry436 passengers in authentic Victorian surroundings. Many of the furnishings inthe public areas and staterooms are antiques. Among the many beautifulfeatures on board, the J.M. White Dining Room is perhaps one of the mostimpressive restaurants that can be found today on any cruise ship, either ocean-going liners or riverboats.

Designed to replicate the Main Cabin of the 1878 steamboat J.M. White,domed sections rise on either side of the hall, with huge tapestries decoratingthe forward bulkheads and large mirrors reflecting the length of the room. Tallwindows with velvet drapes and potted palms grace the perimeter. Whetherdining from the buffet or enjoying a sit-down meal, passengers are impressedwith the commanding luxury of this grand dining room.

On the opposite end of the same deck, the Grand Saloon is designed toresemble a 19th-century opera house combined with elements from Ford’sTheater in Washington, D.C. The two-deck showroom has a large dance floorand seating on the lower, Main Deck level, while the upper Cabin Deck levelcontains six sections devoted to box seats and a balcony. Chandeliers andoriginal artwork enhance the elegance of this entertaining room. A traditionalgrand staircase of wood and brass connects both levels of the lobby. The Mark

The J.M. White Dining Room


Twain Gallery is a quiet lounge that overlooks the dining room and leads to theLadies’ Parlor and the Gentlemen’s Card Room, two small but lavishly appointedlounges of a kind that was once found in nearly all steamboats and plantationhouses ashore. For shoppers, the AQ Emporium stocks a selection of qualitymerchandise and souvenirs.

All the way aft, the Engine Room Bar has portholes looking out to the rapidlyturning paddle wheel, with open-air porches on either side providing spectacularviews. Rather unusual among cruise vessels today, access is provided through thebar into the actual engine room where the mechanically interested can viewvintage machinery dating back to 1927 and originally constructed for anothersteamer. Even the pilothouse high atop the boat can be toured at designated times.

Dining aboard the American Queen immerses passengers in the regionalcuisines of the South and Middle America. The ship’s celebrated chef and culinarydirector, Natchez-based Regina Charboneau, provides her personal touch to eachmenu. While far from low-calorie, a spread like bananas foster French toast stuffedwith cream cheese, a side of skewered bacon coated with brown sugar, and hotbeignets makes for a decadent breakfast splurge. Both breakfast and lunch areserved at open sittings and guests can order from the menu or select items fromthe extensive buffet. A formal, five-course dinner is served each evening at eitherearly or late seating. Wine and beer is complimentary at dinner. Dress is country-club casual with no jackets or ties ever requested.


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The Grand Saloon isdesigned to resemble a

19th-century opera housecombined with elements

from Ford’s Theater inWashington, D.C.

The Ladies’ Parlor


For those preferring an even more laid-back atmosphere, the FrontPorch of America serves light food and snacks 24 hours a day. Lunch anddinner can also be found outdoors at the River Grill, high above the paddlewheel and surrounding the Calliope Bar.

While excellent food, service, and entertainment are among the mostimportant elements of a successful cruise, it’s the little things that count aswell, and the American Queen provides items that most other cruise linesdon’t. All soft drinks, fruit juices, tea, Starbucks coffee, lattes, cappuccinos,and bottled water are available without charge at the Front Porch ofAmerica. Soft-serve ice cream cones are a treat as well. Eight selections ofbeverages can be dispensed from what one passenger described as “thebest coffee machine ever!”

There are six basic types of stateroom accommodations, priced in 14categories and arranged over four of the six decks. On this boat, your cabindoesn’t just have a number, it has a name. In fact the term “stateroom”originated with steamboats, and on the American Queen, you might residein one of the 50 states or be ensconced in a room named after a famousperson or one of the rivers of America.

While some staterooms boast private balconies and others, arrestingfloor-to-ceiling bay windows, most cabins open onto the outer decks.


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The Grand Saloon

The Front Porch of America

Take a tour of theAmerican Queen ...and meet GodmotherPresley herself!


Suddenly, watching the passing scenery from your open cabin doors becomes avery important part of life. Chairs and a table are provided for each room alongthe shared promenades. Cozy inside cabins are available for those on a tighterbudget. Single travelers will especially appreciate the selection of the eight insidecabins and four outside staterooms offered without a supplement.

While most travelers on the American Queen were in the 50-plus age group,some were considerably younger. Tiffany Mohre, of New Orleans, just 19 yearsold and traveling with her mother, described the trip as a “very interesting, verypeaceful, unique special experience. The people have been great and the food’sbeen great, much better than a standard ship.”

Howard and Rosalie Gordon, from Weston, Florida, veterans of numerous oceancruises and trying their first river cruise, concurred. “The staff has beenextraordinarily friendly and helpful. On other trips, the language barrier can bedifficult, but here with Americans, we communicate on the same level.”

The Gordons added a thought that many aboard also expressed: “We wanted tosee this country, and nothing was available until recently. We’re converts to rivercruising and will probably come back and do one of the Civil War–themed cruisesto see the battlefields and historic sites.”


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The Mark Twain Suite


Even members of the crew are enthusiastic about traveling on inlandrivers while working aboard the historic steamboat. Gillian Fraser, a21-year-old waitress in the dining room, said, “I’m having a great time.I plan to enjoy the experience and continue on the rivers.” A sense ofcamaraderie pervades aboard the American Queen, and that adds up toa memorable experience for all.

All voyages with the American Queen Steamboat Company include acomplimentary overnight hotel stay the night before departure. Thiseases the stress of potential flight delays while allowing guests to begintheir vacations exploring the embarkation city. The highly inclusivenature of these cruises goes a step farther with complimentary, hop-on-hop-off shore tours in each of the ports, with admissions to many ofthe attractions included. A dedicated fleet of buses, known asSteamcoaches, are decorated to look like a steamboat traveling alongthe highways. It is a really wonderful enhancement to the equallywonderful experiences on the water.

In the long history of steamboating, the latest chapter is justbeginning to be written. Here in the 21st century, the sound of a steamwhistle and the sight of a big red paddle wheel once again signal thatthe American Queen is back in business on the rivers of America. �


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The Engine Room Bar

The Grand Staircase


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Smaller lines join forces to unveil a new strategy,

luring guests who normallymight not cruise at all.

PH182_050-53 uncruise_ ph132 master 10/10/12 11:48 AM Page 50

WHO’S UP FOR AN “UN-CRUISE”?

BY CHRIS GRAY FAUST


The “Un-Cruise” has become the newest slogan for American Safari Cruisesand InnerSea Discoveries, the two small-ship lines operated by cruise industryveterans Dan Blanchard and Tim Jacox. The Seattle-based companies may havedifferent customers — American Safari Cruises have long been known for theirall-inclusive, luxury yacht sailings, while InnerSea Discoveries, launched in 2011,concentrates on expedition-style adventure — but what the two have in commonis that they draw people who normally might not cruise at all.

“They tend to be an independent type of traveler,” Blanchard noted on a May2012 shake-down cruise of the Safari Endeavour. Think city dwellers, post-kids,many of whom actively seek out the kayaking, hiking, and stand-uppaddleboarding opportunities offered by InnerSea Discoveries. In its inauguralseason, the line sold out the Alaska itineraries on the two ships that it ran at thetime, the Wilderness Discoverer and the Wilderness Adventurer.

The ships plied the Inside Passage between Juneau and Ketchikan, visiting glaciersduring the day and dropping anchor in deserted coves at night. When the companyadded a third ship and a more traditional Glacier Bay route in 2012, the line found thatit was attracting many passengers who couldn’t keep up with the active schedule. “Werealized there is a client out there who doesn’t want to burn calories,” Blanchard says.

Enter the Safari Endeavour. The 86-passenger ship, which offers wine and beerwith dinner and a complimentary massage on its trips, is meantfor passengers who want access to the outdoors but with a fewmore luxuries. After sailing Alaska this summer, the ship isnow in Mexico’s Sea of Cortez, where activities includesnorkeling, whale watching, guided nature tours, and trips totowns such as Loreto.

Besides Mexico and Alaska, the company will run bothyachts and expedition ships in Hawaii this winter. The largerInnerSea Discoveries vessels will travel on 7-night itinerariesbetween Honolulu and the Big Island, while the SafariExplorer — a 36-guest luxury yacht that serves as the flagshipfor American Safari Cruises – will go between Lanai andHawaii. The 22-passenger Safari Quest also runs fallitineraries along the Snake and Columbia rivers, as well as atrip through Washington’s San Juan Islands.

In many ways, the Un-Cruise concept fills the small-shipgap that was left in Alaska and other markets when CruiseWest went bankrupt in 2010. Three of the seven ships in theInnerSea’s fleet — the Safari Endeavour, Wilderness Explorer,and Safari Legacy (still undergoing renovation) — wereformerly owned by Cruise West, and both Jacox andBlanchard worked for the company, the latter as acting vicepresident of operations.

“I was sure that I was going to come back and run thatcompany someday,” Blanchard says. “I never envisioned thatit would be like this.”


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While many cruisers delight in megaships with zip lines,elaborate waterslides, and touristy ports, there’s a certain typeof traveler who prefers a simpler vacation on the water — onethat focuses on outdoor adventure, offbeat stops, and small-ship intimacy. These people want to “Un-Cruise.”

Watch anInnerSea

Discoveries'"Un-Cruise"

unfold.

The InsidePassage

Hiking in Alaska


Then again, Blanchard is well aware that things oftendon’t work out as planned. In April, he’d been spendingthe night on Safari Spirit, a 12-person luxury yacht thathe’d bought and renovated himself. He woke upshortly after 1 a.m. when he heard popping noises.

Within a few minutes, the 105-foot ship was fully onfire, Blanchard recalls. Luckily, he was able to scrambleto safety by shimmying down the ship’s mooring line,as did a ship’s engineer, who was sleeping severaldecks below. Blanchard’s intervention kept Seattle firefighters from sinking it completely in Fisherman’sTerminal, but the yacht — chartered twice by theactresses Kate Winslet and Emma Thompson, forvacations in Alaska and Mexico — has been declared acomplete loss, he says. (Luckily, it was fully insured.)

The line was able to move passengers scheduled to cruise on SafariSpirit to other Alaska-bound ships. Jacox says that the company probablywon’t replace the Spirit. “It doesn’t have the economy of scale,” he says ofthe yacht’s small size, adding that that American Safari Cruises has beenmoving away from the charter business (down to 13 percent).

In 2013, American Safari Cruises plans to add Safari Legacy, a “floatinghistory” experience, to its Alaska and Pacific Northwest offerings.

“Instead of an expedition ship, it will have actors in costume,”Blanchard explains. “People will board the boat in Seattle and begreeted by John Muir or Teddy Roosevelt.” It will sail two 12-day Seattle-Juneau itineraries in August 2013 before moving to the Snake andColumbia rivers in the fall.

Other possible plans for the future include moving two of theInnerSea Discovery expedition ships into California’s wine country. TheNapa River is wide enough for the Wilderness Discoverer and theWilderness Explorer to sail up from San Francisco — and an activeitinerary, plus special offerings such as creating your own wine, couldgive the city’s younger professionals a taste of the Un-Cruiseexperience, Blanchard says.

“It’s what people are looking for,” he says. �


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All photography courtesy of InnerSea Discoveries

They tend to be an independenttype of traveler,” Dan Blanchardsays of “Un-Cruisers.”

Riding mules by the Sea of Cortes

Relaxing in a remote hot spring


Our Cruise ExpertsAre Available 24/7/365!

Carnival Cruise Lines isn’t just the largest cruise line in the world – it’s also the most popular. Carnival’s family of

“Fun Ships®” (24 vessels in total following the addition of the all-new Carnival Breeze®) sends more passengers on cruise vacations than any other fleet on the planet. From the white sands of the Caribbean and the glacial landscapes of Alaska to the historic cities of Europe, Carnival visits more than 60 of cruising’s most beautiful destinations. That number continues to grow following the addition of several new itineraries departing throughout 2012 and 2013.

Cruising’s most contemporary experience is also its greatest value. No other fleet delivers as many fresh and exciting offerings at budget-friendly prices as Carnival; highlights include an ever-expanding selection of dinnertime options designed to accommodate personal preferences (“Your Choice Dining”), Camp CarnivalSM and Club O2SM for toddlers and teens, sprawling shipboard waterparks, some of the largest spas afloat, dozens of unique bars/lounges, and the Seaside Theatre® (movies and more, broadcast poolside on a huge LED screen).

FREE Stateroom Upgrades!

20% “EARLY-SAVER” Discounts!

REDUCED PRICING For Residents Of Select U.S. States!

REDUCED AIRFARE To South America!

REDUCED PRICING For Active Or Retired U.S. Military Veterans!

PH182_054-55 CCLSpread _Layout 1 10/8/12 1:47 PM Page 54

3 & 4 NIGHT BAHAMASCarnival Imagination® or Carnival Sensation®

from Miami or Port Canaveral visiting Nassau, Bahamas

.................................................................................................................................................from $1694 & 5 NIGHT BAHAMASCarnival Fascination® or Carnival Ecstasy®

from Jacksonville or Port Canaveral visiting Nassau and Half Moon Cay (private island) or Key West, Grand Bahama Island

...................................................................................................................... from $2193 & 4 NIGHT BAJA MEXICOCarnival Inspiration®

from Los Angeles visiting Catalina Island and Ensenada

...................................................................................................................... from $2494 & 5 NIGHT WESTERN CARIBBEANCarnival Elation® or Carnival Triumph®

from New Orleans or Galveston visiting Cozumel, Mexico and more

...................................................................................................................... from $2597 NIGHT SOUTHERN CARIBBEANCarnival Valor®

from San Juan visiting St. Thomas, Barbados, St. Lucia, St. Kitts, St. Maarten

...................................................................................................................... from $3796 NIGHT WESTERN CARIBBEANCarnival Freedom® or the all-new Carnival Breeze®

from Ft. Lauderdale or Miami visiting Grand Turk Island, Jamaica and Nassau or Key West

...................................................................................................................... from $379

7 NIGHT MEXICAN RIVIERACarnival Splendor® or Carnival Miracle®

from Los Angeles visiting Cabo San Lucas and Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

...................................................................................................................... from $3997 NIGHT WESTERN OR EASTERN CARIBBEANCarnival Conquest® or Carnival Magic®

from New Orleans or Galveston visiting Cozumel and Jamaica, Grand Cayman or Belize, Bay Islands or Nassau, Grand Bahama Island, Key West

...................................................................................................................... from $3998 NIGHT BAHAMAS & FLORIDACarnival Miracle®

from New York visiting Port Canaveral, Freeport, Nassau

...................................................................................................................... from $3997 NIGHT EXOTIC WESTERN OR EASTERN CARIBBEANCarnival Dream®

from Port Canaveral visiting Cozumel, Bay Islands, Belize, Costa Maya or Nassau, St. Thomas, St. Maarten

...................................................................................................................... from $41912 NIGHT MEDITERRANEANCarnival Legend® or Carnival Sunshine®

from Barcelona or Venice visiting Mallorca, Provence, Florence/Pisa, Rome, Naples, Sicily, Dubrovnik and Monte Carlo or Sardinia

...................................................................................................................... from $94913 NIGHT SOUTH AMERICACarnival Splendor®

from Valparaiso to Buenos Aires cruising Chilean Fjords, Darwin Channel, Cape Horn and visiting Puerto Montt, Punta Arenas, Tierra Del Fuego, Puerto Madryn, Montevideo

.............................................................................................................. from $1,179

1-800-553-7090 or Cruise411.comDiscover the benefits of group travel. Call our group cruise experts at 1-800-811-3875!

Terms & Conditions: Carnival reserves the right to reinstate a fuel supplement of up to $9 per person, per day, for all guests if the NYMEX oil price exceeds $70 per barrel. Rates are in U.S. dollars per person (based on double occupancy) and subject to availability. Government taxes and fees ($17 - $299) are additional. A non-refundable and non-transferable deposit is required at time of booking; no name changes are allowed. Additional restrictions apply. Please request “Early-Saver” or “Fun Select.” ©2012 Carnival Cruise Lines

Carnival WaterWorks (Select Ships)

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BY NATALIE AROYAN

CRUISINGDOWNUNDER

With more cruise lines adding Australia to their summer routes,travelers now have easier access to all this faraway land has to offer.

Ever the bucket-list destination deemedtoo distant, Australia is now becomingeasier to reach thanks to the largestcruise lines in the world positioningtheir ships there for a summer in theSouthern Hemisphere.

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Companies such as RoyalCaribbean, Princess, Celebrity, andHolland America Line have committedan increasing number of ships tohomeport in the region every year,while lines including Cunard,Seabourn and Crystal now claimAustralian ports as part of theirdiverse itineraries.

Carnival Cruise Lines went onestep further by repositioning thenewly Aussified Carnival Spirit year-round in the land down under, joininglocal cruise line and sister brand P&OCruises Australia. This is the firsttime that Carnival has homeported aship outside of North America to sailyear-round.

So what should cruisers lookforward to when heading to the landof boomerangs and beaches?

We list the top three must-dos insome of Australia’s major cities andmost popular cruise ports:

Sydney1. Climb the Sydney Harbour Bridge,the world’s largest and widest steel-arch bridge. If Oprah can do it, youcan too; there’s a range of toursavailable for all different fitness levels. 2. Looking for a unique way to meetsome of Australia’s cute and cuddlyanimals? Taronga Zoo offers behind-the-scenes tours complete with azookeeper guide. Prepare lunch for theanimals and have your photo taken witha koala, kangaroo, or echidna. If you’reporting overnight or extending yourstay pre- or post-cruise, book a Roar &Snore package that allows you to campin bungalows on the zoo property andpartake in activities like a nighttimetour or giraffe feeding. 3. Head out of Sydney and explore theBlue Mountains, located approximatelytwo hours from the center of the city.Experience the majesty of the ThreeSisters rock formation that sits over


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3,000 feet above sea level, or ride thesteepest incline railway in the world atScenic World.

Melbourne1. Experience the European flavor ofMelbourne by foot with a MELTourswalking tour. Learn about the hiddenlaneways of the city that play host to amyriad of shops, restaurants, and barsor take a tour of the majestic FlindersStreet Station that’s more than acentury old. 2. View the city from 88 floors up atthe Eureka Skydeck 88. At the top,maximize your thrill at The Edge, aglass cube that projects almost 10 feetfrom the side of the building.3. Head to St. Kilda, the arty seasidesuburb famous for its shopping,restaurants, bars, and historic LunaPark, one of only two amusementparks in the world protected bygovernment legislation.

Aussie Cruising Facts• The number of Australians choosing to cruise in 2011 grew by 34 percent compared to 2010, far exceeding other key nationalmarkets, including the United States at 4 percent and the UnitedKingdom at 5 percent. • 2.7 percent of the Australian population cruised in 2011, takingAustralia to No. 2 in the world in terms of market penetration.

Picture Finders Ltd./eStock Photo

The Three Sisters, Sydney


Adelaide1. The picturesque wine region of theBarossa Valley lies approximately 45minutes away from the heart ofAdelaide and is home to several labels,including Wolf Blass, Penfolds, andJacob’s Creek. For something a bitdifferent, head to Barossa Reservoir’sWhispering Wall and sample anacoustic wonder that allows people towhisper to each other from one side ofthe dam to the other.2. Take in the view from the top of the aptly named Mount Lofty,sitting 2,300 feet high, or embark on aguided bushwalk. 3. Victor Harbor is located one houroutside the city of Adelaide and iswhere many locals head for longweekends in the summer. The seaside

town offers a range of attractions,such as Granite Island and theprivately owned Urimbirra WildlifeExperience, home to free-roamingAustralian animals.

Perth1. Snorkel or dive with the sharks atthe Aquarium of Western Australia.Or, the fainthearted can view themarine life from the safety of a 321-foot underwater glass tunnel.2. A three-hour drive out of Perthtakes you to the Nambung NationalPark, home to The Pinnacles,thousands of limestone pillars thatstand up to 11 feet tall. On the way,check out the sand dunes of Lancelin,popular for four-wheel driving andsand boarding.

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3. Sample wine, cheese, and freshproduce from the Margaret Riverwineries. Only 45 years old, thesewineries are renowned for producingsuperb chardonnays, cabernetsauvignons, and cabernet blends.

Darwin1. Experience paradise only onehour’s drive out of the city at LitchfieldNational Park. Stay cool in the crystalclear waterfalls and swimming holes,or try your hand at four-wheel driving. 2. Test those nerves by swimmingwith prehistoric predators in the Cageof Death at Crocosaurus Cove in theheart of Darwin city. 3. Hear stories portraying theJapanese bombing of 1942 at the EastPoint Military Museum and at the OilStorage Tunnels under the DarwinWharf Precinct.

Brisbane1. One hour out of Brisbane will takeyou to the Crocodile Hunter’s ownAustralia Zoo. Owned by the Irwinfamily, the attraction offers theWildlife Warriors show and a chanceto get up close and personal with arange of Australian fauna. 2. Stroll the picture-perfect sandybeaches of the Gold Coast only onehour south of Brisbane, or view theendless stretch of ocean from theobservation deck at Q1, Australia’slargest residential tower. 3. While it may be prohibited in otherstates, if you’ve always wanted to actuallycuddle a koala, you can do so at the LonePine Koala Sanctuary, the first andlargest koala sanctuary in the world.

Walter Bibikow/eStock Photo

Crystal Cruises

See Australia inall its vivid glory.


Hobart1. Visit the privately owned Museumof Old and New Art (MONA),featuring the extensive, unique, andoften intense collection of eccentricmillionaire David Walsh. 2. Try some true blue Aussie beer atthe Cascade Brewery, the nation’soldest, created in 1824.3. Experience oyster farming first-hand before sampling fresh anddelectable shellfish at the Barilla BayOyster Farm.


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Ships calling Australia home in 2012-13While Carnival Spirit may be the only new ship to call Australia home year-

round, a host of ships are taking advantage of the Aussie cruising boom by visitingDown Under during the Southern Hemisphere summer.

The six-star, all-inclusive Crystal Symphony will embark on a 12-day SouthernAustralia Sojourn voyage, offering overnight stays in five major Australian citiesfollowing their unique New Year’s fireworks display in Sydney Harbour, whilefellow luxe brand Seabourn will be sending both Seabourn Odyssey and SeabournQuest to the region to visit smaller exotic ports, including Thursday Island innorthern Australia.

Royal Caribbean took the cake as having the largest ship to be based out ofAustralia when the recently upgraded Voyager of the Seas (part of Royal Advantage,the line’s $300 million revitalization) arrived in November 2012.

Bringing along the DreamWorks Experience and Australia’s first-ever ice rink atsea, she will join sisters Radiance of the Seas and Rhapsody of the Seas to visit portsin Australia, New Zealand, and the South Pacific.

Guests who want a more barefoot experience while cruising Australia will beable to relish their toes in the grass at the Lawn Club aboard Celebrity Solstice.

With more than 30 ships sailing in Australian waters during the SouthernHemisphere summer, the opportunities are endless for those wanting to cross theisland continent off their bucket lists.

From ultra-luxe to mid-class vessels, there’s no better time to experience thewonder of the Land Down Under by sea. �

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Whether you escape to the Caribbean, Alaska or even the Mediterranean, Disney Cruise Line® has something magical for every member of your family.

New Ports! New Itineraries! New Adventures!

1-800-TAKE-OFF or VacationOutlet.comDiscover the benefits of group travel. Call our group cruise experts at 1-800-259-1496!


SAILING FROM PORT CANAVERAL, FL The Disney Dream sails 3- and 4-night

Bahamian cruises to Nassau and Disney’s own private island paradise, Castaway Cay. The newest ship in the Disney Cruise Line®

Disney Fantasy, offers new levels of Disney imagination and family fun with

7-night cruises to the Eastern and Western Caribbean.

SAILING FROM BARCELONA, SPAIN Sail the Mediterranean between June and

August 2013 aboard the Disney Magic®. Visit some of Europe’s favorite destinations

including the French Riviera, Rome, Venice and Athens. Add in Disney Cruise Line® world-class hospitality and it’s an

unforgettable vacation you will never forget.

SAILING FROM GALVESTON, TX The Disney Magic® sails from Galveston

through May 2013. Enjoy a 4-night escape or a week long adventure to the Western

Caribbean. Or take an 8-night Bahamian cruise to Disney’s Castaway Cay and Port

Canaveral—including a day at Walt Disney World® Resort. Experience the onboard

“Disney Difference” in dining, entertainment and more!

SAILING FROM VANCOUVER, BC

Between May and September 2013, the Disney Wonder® will cruise to the unspoiled

natural wonders of Alaska for seven unforgettable nights of rugged grandeur and spectacular vistas. Ports of call include Tracy

Arm, Juneau and Skagway, Ketchikan.

SAILING FROM MIAMI, FL

Through May 2013 sail aboard the Disney Wonder® on a 4- or 5-night itinerary to The Bahamas or the Western Caribbean—most

include a stop at Disney’s Castaway Cay. Later in October the Disney Magic® will begin

voyages from Miami. On every Disney cruise, attention to detail and family entertainment combine to create an unforgettable vacation

that everyone will enjoy.

CALL TODAY FOR GREAT RATES ON A MAGICAL DISNEY CRUISE VACATION!As to Disney artwork, logos and properties: ©Disney Ships’ Registry: The Bahamas

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With the wind at our backs and the surf in our ears, Windstar gave us a journey unlike any other.

Harvey lloyd

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diminutive, sporting anautical flair and elegance the others lacked.

Fresh from a multi-week refit, pairs of portholespunctuated her glistening white hull, a finely shaped bowwas crowned with a bowsprit, and five masts toweredoverhead, adorned by a web of rigging and shrouds.Clearly, this was an entirely different breed of vessel.

Carrying only 312 passengers, the 1990-built WindSurf is considered the largest sailing ship ever, bigenough to offer five restaurants, a sizeable spa, andextensive open deck space. At the same time, it is smallenough to be intimate and personable.

In recent years, Windstar suffered under changingmanagement and a bankruptcy. A loyal, attentive crewand a distinct ambience mixing yachting and sailingensured the company’s survival, but by 2011, WindSurf ’s décor seemed outdated and bland.


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Standing at the railing ofWindstar Cruises’ Wind Surf, Ibecame a bit reflective as the sunreluctantly set off St. Bart’s. It mayhave been the pull of the sails unfurled164 feet above, or a glass of wine I hadjust started, but I soon found myselfpondering just how different one placecould be to two people.

Consider the Caribbean most cruisersdiscover: Of course, there are beautifulbeaches and lush green hills, but thereare also long lines to board the ship,streets packed with shops and discount-seeking tourists, and too many towels tocount reserving coveted spots on thosebeautiful-but-bustling beaches. During myweek sailing — yes, literally sailing — withWindstar, my girlfriend Kathryn and Idiscovered an entirely different Caribbean —more adventurous, more exotic, morebeautiful, and certainly more romantic.

We reveled in cozy coves, virtually free ofvisitors. We found small restaurants along the beach,where the owner waded into the water, hauled out alobster trap, and threw fresh seafood onto a barbecue.We squeezed into a local bus, the two of us clearly theonly tourists, and listened as the locals chatted in adialect unrecorded in any guidebooks. We hikedverdant forests, relaxed in a natural pool by acascading waterfall, and found ourselves one of onlytwo couples there.

That our trip — and the Caribbean we visited —would be a world apart from a conventional cruise wasevident as soon as we set eyes on our ship in St.Maarten. Seeming to crouch behind the boxymegaships at the adjacent pier, Wind Surf appeared

Hanging Loose

on the Wind SurfBY BEN LYONS

Windstar Cruises

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Thankfully, an $18 million fleet-wide refit has restored style and added comfort tothe ships. In 2011, cabins were modernized with leather headboards and newfurnishings that included linen wall coverings. Warm colors and modern accentsgive corridors and cabins a fresh feeling of hospitality and elegance. The secondphase of the refit, completed in November 2012, included a total refurbishment of allpublic rooms. An all-but-brand-new ship will emerge, with hardware and furnishingsfinally matching the refined style and exclusive flair that this sailing ship offers.


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Susanna Bennett/Alamy

Valley of Desolation, Dominica



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And surely a sailing ship, with its emphasis on the open air, is exactly how theCaribbean should be experienced. Wind Surf provided us numerous opportunitiesto get outdoors. Most days, a large marina unfolded from the stern like a giantTransformer from which we could enjoy a refreshing swim or water-ski, kayak,wakeboard, ski-tube, or, appropriately enough, windsurf. In Martinique, weborrowed a catamaran and promptly flipped it during a gust of wind, giving us aliteral Caribbean immersion.

We enjoyed numerous opportunities to eat under the Caribbean sky, takingmost breakfasts and lunches at The Veranda, an indoor/outdoor café. Two othervenues seated 30 and served dinners alfresco: Candles illuminated steaks andskewers by the pool, while a few decks higher, Le Marché offered an intimatesetting for delicious lobster and tasty seafood.

That our trip —and the Caribbeanwe visited — wouldbe a world apartfrom a conventionalcruise was evidentas soon as we seteyes on our ship in St. Maarten.

Memorable as the meals were, it isWind Surf ’s transfixing 26,000 squarefeet of sails that remain etched in mymind. A soft whirring signaled theelectronic unfurling, but once set, thefull, billowing canvas seemed timelessand mesmerizing. (While the enginesusually assisted the sails, there wereseveral periods where the ship movedsolely under the wind.) Kathryn and Ifound numerous nooks on deck wherewe could relax in the romantic settingundisturbed, and we closed everynight with a quiet walk on deck,peering at the lit canvas above.

At night, we often visited thewheelhouse, open to passengers. Inthe darkened bridge, where only a fewindication lights and the soft glow ofthe radar broke the still and thedarkness, we’d chat with the watchofficer and look at our position on thechart. The islands twinkled severalmiles away as we slowly passed, thegentle slap of the seas against the hullpunctuating our progress. AboardWind Surf, we felt connected to thesea; it was an integral part of our trip,rather than something we sailed overin a hermetically sealed hotel.

Our itinerary was also designed toconnect us to an off-the-heavily-beaten(or sailed---) path. In Martinique, weavoided docking in the largest city andinstead anchored outside a marina atthe southern end of the island. We

Windstar Cruises


weren’t just another ship to the locals; instead, a television crew covered the unusualarrival of a cruise ship at this small community. On the pier, Kathryn and I wereinterviewed and asked how we enjoyed visiting such a quiet part of the island. Weresponded enthusiastically that it was nothing short of magnifique!

Later, when visiting Dominica, we challenged ourselves to a highlyrecommended, 8-mile hike. After an initial hour climbing through beautifultropical rain forest, we arrived at the summit of the trail at 2,950 feet and reveledin a memorable view over green valleys rolling into the blue sea. From there,however, the path changed as we entered the ominously named Valley ofDesolation. Scrambling down a steep, slippery, and rocky waterfall, we lookedaround at a landscape more lunar than earthly. The smell of sulfur was intense,and small springs boiled and bubbled. We walked quickly — even the few minutespassing through this area was enough to heat the soles of our shoes.

After several hours, we reached Boiling Lake, a muddy witch’s cauldron 200 feet indiameter. Blue-grey waters swirled and simmered ominously, until a massive expulsionfrom deep within would set the water churning furiously. Passing vapor clouds thatoccasionally obscured the seething waters enhanced the eerie, mystical scene.

The rest of our itinerary was similarly off the beaten track. In St. Lucia, weavoided more populated beaches by anchoring off Pigeon Island and enjoying aprivate barbecue and party on the isolated beach, not a crowd in sight. In Antigua,we called at the historic English Harbour, bypassing the bevy of shops in larger St.John’s. Even our one day of shopping was exclusive, anchored as we were amidfabulous mega-yachts and the setting sun off chic St. Bart’s.

By the time the sun finally sank below the horizon, I had finished my glass ofwine and realized that during the last week we had re-discovered the Caribbeanbefore the advent of megaships. Different modes of travel, I now understood,could reveal entirely different facets. While the Caribbean ‘the way it used to be’may be harder and harder to find, there is no difficulty at all for those fortunatefew who arrive to it on Wind Surf. �


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Windstar Cruises

Laurent Benoit/SaintBarth-Tourisme.com

St. Bart’s Gouverneur Beach

Check out the spreadfor Wind Surf's DeckBBQ Under The Stars.

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Gourmet Buffets

food for thought

Food and Drink Photos/Alamy

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Buffets at sea were once all about the quantity. Thebigger the bowl of (jumbo) shrimp, the better! Today,quality and creativity take the fore … and cruisers areloving each and every all-they-can-eat bite!

Carnival Buffets Turn 2.0Of course, Carnival ships all feature the bustling Lido buffet

bonanza, but the recent introduction of Carnival Breezeprovided a tasty preview of the line’s new Lido Marketplaceconcept for both new and many older ships. It’s all part of thehuge $500 million Fun Ship 2.0 initiative that’s transforming thefleet with branded spaces and celebrity partnerships, like Guy’sBurger Joint (as in Guy Fieri, of Food Network fame) andPunchliner Comedy Brunch Presented by George Lopez (whicheven includes a Bloody Mary bar).

The new Lido Marketplace concept includes traditional hotand cold buffet items, but there’s also the new Comfort Kitchen,which offers a selection of American-style comfort food — thinkfried chicken and mac and cheese. In addition, depending on theship, hungry passengers will find 24-hour pizza; a full-servicedeli, including paninis; fresh-made tacos and burritos with asalsa and toppings bar at BlueIguana Cantina; and theaforementioned Guy’s Burger Joint, with creative freshly-madeburgers, fries, a toppings bar, and a fun travel- and car-themeddine-in area.

Step aside, midnight pizza!There are plenty of newfavorites to choose from at today’s buffets at sea.BY LYNN & CELE SELDON

Oceania Lunch Buffets for FoodiesWhen a line built by foodies for foodies creates lunch buffets

at sea, it’s a gourmet experience. The Terrace Café featuresfloor-to-ceiling windows and outdoor seating that puts theawaiting luncheon buffet in its best light.

The gourmand’s menu might include assorted cheeses,marinated fennel salad, pizza with creative toppings, coldpoached salmon, ham and vegetable aspic, carved meats, pastaá la minute, or a Goa-style Indian fish curry — followed by adessert buffet or the flavorful ice cream trolley.

Carnival Cruise Lines

Carnival’s Lido Marketplace



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Barbecue BuffetUnder the Stars with Windstar

One night on almost every WindstarCruises sailing, the yacht anchors for thenight for a barbecue buffet under thestars and billowing sails. After a warmwelcome from the captain, the bar openswith complimentary wine, liquor, andbeer and the tempting smells of grilledmeats soon fill the air.

Salads and appetizers are followed bygrilled lobster tail, jerk-style chickendrumsticks, the fresh catch of the day,lamb loin chops, suckling pig, and, ofcourse, succulent pork ribs. Dessert,dancing, and a crew show last long intothe starry night.

Windstar Cruises

It’s a Pirate’s Life — and Food — with DisneyLeave it to Disney Cruise Line to take a theme — like pirates — and make it fun

and tasty. Every Disney cruise features a “Pirate’s Buffet,” which is set up withpirate-themed garnishes and ice carvings. The special buffet coincides with the“Pirates in the Caribbean” deck party, which features stunt performers rappellingfrom atop the funnel; an epic battle; characters like Captain Hook, Mr. Smee, and

Captain Mickey; and the onlyfireworks display at sea.

The tropical-tinged buffetfeatures barbecue turkeydrumsticks (argh, matey!),honey-glazed ham and rumraisin sauce, chili, rice andbeans, corn bread, freshly cuttropical fruit (in colorfuldisplays), and sinful pineappleand coconut meringue cake fordessert. Kids and kids-at-heartcan join in the fun by donningpirate attire for the evening.

Disney Cruise Line

Windstar’s barbecue buffet



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Norwegians like their chocolate. SoNorwegian Cruise Line’s “Cruise Like aNorwegian” slogan seems ideal for theline’s famed Chocoholic Buffet.

Generally offered in the late eveningonce on sailings five days or longer,this complimentary and decadentbuffet features chocolate fountains,various fondues, mousse cakes, and aselection of milk, white, or darkchocolate-dipped fruits, marshmallows,pastries, and pound cakes. For thosewho overindulged earlier in the day, theChocoholic Buffet does include severalsugar-free choices.

With these eight offerings and manymore, there’s not much to miss aboutthe long Lido lines of yesteryear. �

Eat Like a Local with CelebrityNow on all but one Celebrity ship, the line’s popular

Oceanview Café makes it easy to eat like a local. Much likean international marketplace, a buffet lunch might featurehandmade sushi one day (eight-plus styles of sushi andsashimi) and Mexican, Indian, or Italian the next.

At night, Celebrity chefs prepare locally sourced menuitems for dinner. That could mean enjoying fresh salmon,halibut, or cod while cruising Alaska’s Inside Passage –entrées served with a breathtaking side of glacier andwildlife views from the Oceanview Café.

Crystal Heads East for LunchAt least once each voyage, Crystal

Cruises features a huge Asian-themedlunch buffet in the Lido Café. Thisunique buffet certainly provides ataste of the line’s popular upscaleeateries Silk Road and The Sushi Bar, which features the cuisine offamed Japanese master chef NobuMatsuhisa. But this buffet goes waybeyond Japan’s borders.

It starts with fresh handmade sushiand sashimi prepared by chefspersonally trained by Nobu. Whatfollows is an array of Asian specialties,including Vietnamese pork and prawnsalad, roasted duck salad with lychees,Filipino pancit, varied Indonesian satays,Hong Kong–style sweet-and-sour pork,Thai chicken-and-shrimp soup, severalEastern-leaning desserts, and more.

Going to the Galley with SeabournVeteran and new Seabourn guests alike always rave about the sea day Galley

Market Buffet luncheon. This truly unique concept brings passengers behind theswinging galley doors and into the bustling kitchens of Seabourn’s six ships.

The staff sets up an elaborate food festival of buffet stations right in the kitchen,which is adorned with a riot of buntings, draperies, flags, and other colorfuldecorations just for that day. The varied possibilities include carving stations forhot meats and poultry; fresh fish, including sushi; soups and salads; pastas ondemand; and much more — all served station-side by the chefs. Back in therestaurant, more food and displays await, including baked sculptures, pastries,cakes, tarts, pies, puddings, and flambée stations.

Celebrity Cruises

Crystal Cruises

Chocoholics —prepare to be teased!

Cruising forChocolate with NCL


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Dale Chihuly sculpture aboardCelebrity Constellation

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When you take a cruise, the idea — the ideal, really — is thatyou're stepping out of your everyday life and into an amplifiedreality: The food and drink never run out. There are people thereto entertain you, day and night, and even make your bed. Every

time you step off thegangway, you're in a different,amazing place. And on boardtoo, there are incrediblesights around every corner.

Another ideal is how cruiselines adorn their ships withart. Sometimes it's only "art"in the sense that it adds colorand line to an otherwise barewall — art as decoration.Other times, though, it's Artwith a capital "A," arresting,inspiring, and alive.

Art Sails

Dramatic piecesaboard today’sships do morethan merely

decorate the walls.

BY MATT HANNAFIN

Norwegian Cruise Line

Rendering of Norwegian Breakaway with Peter Max artwork on hull



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Costa Cruises

Costa Luminosa’s Donna sdraiata 2004

depicts one of Botero’s typical zaftigwomen lying at full length on a drapedpedestal, her face relaxed but expectant,her feet and legs raised slightly as ifbouncing absently in daydream.

Nearby, in Luminosa’s centralstaircase, a set of nine 7-by-4-foot black-and-white panels by photographerMatteo Piazza depicts Botero at work onvarious paintings and sculptures. Bornin Medellin, Colombia, in 1932, Boterohas been exhibiting his art since age 16.Today, his paintings and sculptures areinstantly recognizable for their depictionof figures in exaggerated disproportion— “fat figures,” as the artist himself hascalled them.

Executive enthusiasm is alsoresponsible for the collection ofmodern and contemporary LatinAmerican art aboard Oceania Cruises’new Riviera. Line founder andchairman Frank Del Rio personally

For the most part, cruise linescontract out the selection of theironboard art to a commercial artadvisory and management company,which works with a theme and budgetto add visual interest to staterooms andpublic spaces. Sometimes, though,things get much more lofty. Generallydue to the particular passion of acompany chairman, CEO, or otherpersonage, some ships feature worksby world-renowned artists, speciallycommissioned for the spaces theyoccupy on board.

Consider, for instance, Donna sdraiata2004 (Reclining Woman 2004), byColombian figurative artist FernandoBotero. Occupying a central position inthe atrium of Costa Luminosa, the 11-footpatinated bronze came to the ship due toCosta Chairman Pier Luigi Foschi’spersonal fascination with the artist. Thepiece weighs more than a ton and

Witness theChihuly process!


oversaw the selection of more than 1,000 works for the ship and commissionedseveral new pieces, including the painting Yellow Submarine by Cuban artist JoséGrillo, a former professor of art at the University of Havana who is now based inMiami. Painted in an exaggerated figurative style, the work abstracts visualreferences from the Beatles’ animated 1968 film of the same name. The canvas stakesout its own identity by including a clutter of loosely-shaped submarines, and thenresolving on the pair of crossed hands at its center.

For more of the Yellow Submarine effect, board Holland America Line’s Zaandam,where an original work by animator George Dunning — the man behind YellowSubmarine’s famously trippy pop-art style — hangs in the aft staircase on deck nine.The work, created as poster art for the film, depicts the tall Apple Bonkers and the BlueMeanies collecting green apples. Along with a number of other modern pieces aboardthe music-themed Zaandam, it’s a departure from Holland America’s usual style, which

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has long tended toward works depictingDutch colonial and maritime themes.

Disney Cruise Line’s Disney Magicand Disney Wonder features the work of Seattle-based glass artist DaleChihuly, whose commissionedchandeliers top the ships’ three-storyatriums, casting a fantasy glow overpassengers as they board the vessels.The chandelier on Wonder is particularlymagical, with a free-form tangle of metaltubing supporting an overlapping sprayof translucent blue, yellow, and orangelily pads. Chihuly also createdchandeliers on an entirely differentdesign for Celebrity Cruises’Constellation and Infinity. Locatedoutside the top-deck observation lounge,both pieces are designed with hundredsof glass curlicues reaching out fromtheir cores like a Gorgon’s hair.

Celebrity is known for having thecruise world’s most adventurousmodern and contemporary artcollections, exemplified by thecollection aboard 2011’s CelebritySilhouette. Comprising a mix of newlyacquired and commissioned workswith others removed from the oldMercury before her transfer toGerman line TUI Cruises, Silhouette’scollection helps leaven the ship’s cool,urbane sophistication with a sense ofchildlike, storybook wonder. In thevestibule entrance to the EnsembleLounge, the installation Self-Portraitas Host by New York-based JulieHeffernan uses painting, lighting, anaudio soundscape, and a large stone toimmerse guests in a fantastical, fairy-tale atmosphere. On the walls, anatural landscape in Renaissancefresco style depicts the artist robed infruit from the trees around her — a bitof magical realism driven home by thesoundtrack of chirping birds, buzzinginsects, rushing water, and airy flute.

Not far astern, Superstition by Britishartist James Aldridge is another site-specific work, with five large panelsdepicting exotic birds against a

Disney C

ruise LineChihuly chandelier in Disney Wonder’s atrium



swirling, abstracted naturescape.Working in tandem with the mural isAnish Kapoor’s Mirror, a large,concave, stainless-steel sculptureoriginally installed aboard Mercury.Here, the work adds to Superstition’ssense of distorted perception, as well asadding high-profile heft to Silhouette’scollection. Born in Bombay, theLondon-based Kapoor is one of themost influential sculptors of hisgeneration, recipient of major awardsand commissions including the nearly400-foot sculpture Orbit, created for the2012 London Olympics.

Distorted perception — or morespecifically, amplified perspective — isalso the goal for a series of worksaboard Royal Caribbean’s Oasis of theSeas and Allure of the Seas. Juxtaposedphilosophically against the enormity ofthese largest-in-history vessels, theSmall Wonders series American artist

Larry Kirkland presents sculpturalassemblages of objects from nature andworld cultures — agate stones,butterflies’ wings, tiny animal andhuman figures, maps, and so forth — alldisplayed in ornate bronze “microscope-style” pedestals. Peer through theviewer and Kirkland’s little, 3-D worldsappear to be floating inside.

Elsewhere on Allure of the Seas,Miami-based pop artist Romero Brittocreated one of his typically happy,vibrant sculptures for the open-airCentral Park neighborhood, depictingthree colorful butterflies in flight. Call ita come-on, because directly across fromthe sculpture sits a full-on gallery shopdedicated exclusively to Britto and hisworks — a celebration, both in products(prints, books, objects) and events (winereceptions, art talks), of the Brazil-bornartist, whose signature style combineselements of cubism and pop.

Aboard Celebrity Silhouette, Anish Kapoor’s Mirrorand James Aldridge’s Superstition

Celebrity Cruises

Silhouette’scollection helps

leaven the ship’scool, urbane

sophistication with asense of childlike,

storybook wonder.


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AVAILABLEISSUE 169 (October 2010) Avalon FelicityISSUE 170 (December 2010) Nieuw AmsterdamISSUE 171 (February 2011) Norwegian EpicISSUE 172 (April 2011) 15th Anniversary IssueISSUE 173 (June 2011) Queen ElizabethISSUE 174 (August 2011) Disney DreamISSUE 175 (October 2011) MarinaISSUE 176 (December 2011) Carnival MagicISSUE 177 (February 2012) Crystal SerenityISSUE 178 (April 2012) Avalon Panorama, ss Antoinette, AmadolceISSUE 179 (June 2012) RotterdamISSUE 180 (August 2012) Viking Odin

Allure’s Britto shop is a continuation of a partnershipforged in 2003, when the artist created a series of sculptures,paintings, and decorative motifs for the 25,000-square-footpool deck of Royal Caribbean’s Mariner of the Seas. Brittothemes define the space, adorning the pool’s wading area,the Jacuzzi canopy, bandstand canopy, decorative pillars, andother areas. Amid it all, a 10-foot aluminum sculpture of asurfer titled All About Fun stands happy guard.

Another American pop art icon, Peter Max, is on deck tocreate an even larger and more visible floating artwork forthe debut of Norwegian Cruise Line’s new NorwegianBreakaway in April 2013. Long a fixture of cruise ship artauctions, the omnipresent Max has his work adorningeverything from U.S. postage stamps to Boeing 777 jets, butBreakaway will be his first commissioned cruise ship. Inhonor of the fact that the vessel will be sailing year-roundfrom New York, Max’s design will feature NYC icons like theManhattan skyline and the Statue of Liberty, plus planets,stars, musical notes, a giant sunburst, and, of course, theartist’s signature.

“I love painting large canvases,” Max said whenNorwegian announced its commission. That’s a good thing,because for Breakaway he’ll be applying his bold, colorfuldesigns across 40,000 square feet of this 144,017-ton vessels’bow and forward hull. If that’s not getting your art in thepublic eye, what is? �

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aribb

ean International

Britto’s poolside work on Mariner of the Seas.

BACK ISSUESA limited number of back issues are stillavailable. For U.S. residents, $6.50 each(first-class mail). For residents of all othercountries, $9 each for surface mail or $12for airmail. Florida residents add 6percent sales tax. Following are theissues and ships featured:


D E S T I N A T I O N

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Next Stop: IsraelWhen it comes to the history of the world, this

small stretch of land the size of New Jersey holdsan enormous legacy. From its tree-lined rollinghills in the north to creviced desert terrain in thesouth, Israel is the meeting place of threecontinents — Asia, Africa, and Europe. It’s also thecrossroads of three of mankind’s great religions —Judaism, Christianity, and Islam — and where,according to Scripture, Moses led his people, Jesuspreached and was resurrected, and Muhammadascended to heaven.

Israel itself was only proclaimed a country in1948, but the region’s five millennia of tumultuoushistory have resulted in some of the PromisedLand’s most enduring monuments and biblicalsites. It’s home to the lowest point on Earth, withthe Dead Sea’s salt-encrusted shoreline measuredat 1,348 feet below sea level; your ears will pop onthe downward-winding road that runs alongsideoases filled with date palm trees.

Twenty-first century Israel comes alive inskyscraper-studded Tel Aviv, often referred to asIsrael’s New York. The city was founded just over acentury ago on sand dunes beyond the walls of thebiblical-era Old Jaffa Port. Trendy art galleries andshops now stand along Jaffa’s stone alleyways.Modern Jerusalem also teems with pedestrianmalls, boutiques, and street-side cafes.

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Get Your BearingsWith an area of 8,000 square miles,

Israel is a tiny country, but diverse. Itscoast stretches just over 260 milesalong the Mediterranean Sea. In thenorth, the mountainous Golan Heightsregion borders Lebanon and Syria,while the southern Negev Deserttouches Egypt’s Sinai Peninsula. Themountains of Jordan tower in thedistance, and the actual eastern borderslices the Dead Sea down the center.

About 75 percent of Israel’s 7.8million inhabitants are Jews, many ofwhom have settled from about 80countries. The remaining denizens arepredominantly Muslim, with 20 percentof Arab descent, mostly Palestinians.Christians make up 2 percent of thepopulation, and the Druze even less.

See the Sights• Old City Jerusalem’s 16th-century stone walls encircle some of the most sacredreligious sites within the Muslim, Jewish, and Christian quarters. The dual-domedChurch of the Holy Sepulchre is built on the grounds where Christ was believedto be crucified, buried, and resurrected. Worshippers flock to the enormous stone-block façade of the Western Wall, Judaism’s holiest site and part of the retainingwall built 2,000 years ago around the great Temple Mount. The glittering goldDome of the Rock — a symbol of Jerusalem — is an Islamic shrine dating back tothe late 7th century.• Jerusalem’s Israel Museum houses fragments of Dead Sea Scrolls dating back to the3rd century B.C. in the Shrine of the Book, an intriguing, uniquely dome-shaped building. • Lamb kabobs sizzle and curry’s pungent aroma wafts up from vendor stalls sellingdried nuts, ripened tomatoes and barrels of salty olives in Tel Aviv’s Carmel Market. • Built in the Bauhaus modernist architectural style, white-walled dwellings alongcentral Rothschild Boulevard have earned Tel Aviv the nickname “White City” and aplace on the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites.• In the coastal Crusader city of Acre, gothic-arched knights’ halls sit 25 feet belowstreet level. The halls were built in the 12th and 13th centuries by military orders andinclude tributes to the Templars and Hospitallers. • Haifa’s landmark Bahai Temple, impressively aglow at night, is the world centerof the Bahai religion. Fountains dot its beautifully landscaped gardens ascendingMount Carmel. • Caesarea brings back a hint of ancient Rome’s glory days. Built over an oldPhoenician port and dedicated to Emperor Augustus Caesar, ruins include an 8-mile-long Roman aqueduct and a restored 4,000-seat theater still used today. • Swimmers float like never before as buoyant waters create a feeling ofweightlessness in the therapeutic and mineral-dense Dead Sea. • A cable car leads up to the mountaintop fortress of Masada with its ruined stone walls,dug-out cisterns, and well-preserved hot baths still emblazoned with patches of 2,000-year-old frescoes. Overlooking the Dead Sea, Masada is where defenders of the lastJewish stronghold committed suicide rather than fall to the Romans around A.D. 73.


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The Stone of Unction in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Model of ancient Jerusalem


Food for ThoughtDeep-fried falafel balls fit snugly into a pita pocket topped with pickled vegetables and

tahini sauce. Along with falafel, shawarma meat (turkey or lamb) sandwiches areconvenient street food options. Often scooped up with pita bread, hummus to Israelismight be compared to what peanut butter is to Americans.

Finely diced tomatoes, cucumbers, and lettuce add to a typical Israeli salad, whilesome may opt for a Jerusalem salad with olives, feta cheese and pomegranate. Tossedwith bulgur wheat, onions, and tomatoes, finely chopped mint and parsley givetabouleh its tangy flavor.

Roasted meats can include lamb chops and beef kabobs, but chicken and turkey arethe most widely consumed. Grilled tilapia, called St. Peter’s Fish, is especially populararound the Sea of Galilee.

For dessert, pastry shops display honey-soaked baklava, halva, and pistachio-filledkonafa. Kugel, the traditional noodle pudding spiced with black pepper, is often eatenon the Sabbath.

Culture ShockMany businesses close on the Jewish Sabbath, or Shabbat, from sundown Friday to

sundown Saturday. Religious Jews won’t drive or use electricity, and publictransportation is very limited. For Muslims, Friday is the holy day and places ofworship are closed to visitors.

When visiting holy sites, women should dress conservatively, covering legs andshoulders, while men should wear shirts and long pants. At the Western Wall, headsmust be covered — a kippah (also known as a yarmulke) or headscarf is provided.Before entering a mosque, it is customary to remove your shoes.

Choose a CruiseCruise lines calling on Israel include Holland America Line, Seabourn Cruise Line,

Princess Cruises, Regent Seven Seas Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Silversea Cruises,Cunard Line, and Crystal Cruises. Ports of call include Haifa and Ashdod, Israel’slargest port and the gateway to Tel Aviv and Jerusalem.


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Don’t Leave Home Without It

Whether hiking through the desert orwalking the cobbled city ramparts of OldTown Jerusalem, sturdy shoes are amust. The sun is strong even in winter,so don’t forget sunscreen, sunglasses, a broad-brimmed hat, and a water bottle. While summertimecan be extremely hot, winters are generally mild, althoughtemperatures can dip to freezingin the hilly areas. Pack light raingear and, if visiting in winter,clothing to dress in layers. �

Tips forTravelers

Communication: GSM networks and an Israel SIM Cardallow use of an international cell phone,which can be rented. Cyber cafés are

widespread in urban areas.

Currency: The Israeli currency is the shekel (NIS). One American dollar is usually equal

to about four shekels. Dollars are widely accepted, particularly at

tourist sites, bazaars, and markets.

Languages: While most Israelis speak Hebrew, English is considered the country’s

second language. Arabic is spoken in the Palestinian areas and in Old

Jerusalem’s Muslim Quarter, althoughvendors there often know enough

English to communicate.

Time: GMT +2

Tourism Websites: goisrael.com

tour.jerusalem.muni.il/eng tel-aviv.gov.il/English/index.htm

Richard Varr

Richard Varr

Western Wall

Crusaer ruins, Caesarea

Prepare to seeIsrael as you'venever seen itbefore: extreme!


Vampire genre cruisesdraw fans looking for a “fangtastic” time.

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Why not? Just because no self-respecting vampirewould venture out to the ship’s pool in daylightdoesn’t mean that dedicated fans of the vampire

genre — Anne Rice admirers, Twilight Saga junkies,Dracula groupies, Buffy and Dark Shadows devotees, andeven those diehards who sat through Abraham Lincoln:Vampire Hunter on the big screen — should have to limittheir obsession to dry land. Aboard otherwise normal-looking cruise ships,these fans can dress up like vampires, play vampire trivia, compete invampire scavenger hunts, attend lectures on vampires, watch vampiremovies, sing along at a “scareoke” party, ask the ship’s chef to hold thegarlic, and still revert to full human form to go touring or shopping in port.

“You’ll have a fangtastic time,” promises the aptly named Linda Wolf,who has organized three vampire cruises in the past two years. Wolf, whoheads up the Winnetka, California, travel agency Cruises CruisesCruises, is a relative latecomer to vampire fandom, having been seducedby the film Twilight (based on author Stephenie Meyer’s Twilight bookseries) back in 2008.

“I fell in love with the story and knew I had to do a Twilight-themedcruise,” she says. Wolf lined up some actors from the movie to join thevoyage and received a huge publicity bounce when Ryan Seacrestinterviewed her for his radio show.

“We booked hundreds of people in one week,” she says. The resultingTwi Cruise was a big success, sailing to Alaska on Holland America Line’sOosterdam in August 2010 with nearly 600 passengers from as far away asAustralia, Europe, and the Caribbean. But Summit Entertainment, thestudio that owns the multi-part Twilight Saga film series, took a dim viewof calling it “Twi” and ordered Wolf to stop.

Vampires — those sharp-fanged mythological creaturesof the night who are said tosubsist on the blood of theliving – are as ubiquitous asSnooki these days, rising fromtheir coffins to plunge theirincisors into a bulging vein ofbooks, movies, TV shows,cruise ships ... cruise ships?!

BY CLARK NORTON


After a small reunion cruise in theMediterranean in 2011 — without the“Twi” name attached — “I branchedout to include fans of the wholevampire genre,” Wolf says,“everything from Bram Stoker’sDracula to all of today’s popularvampire books and shows. I found Icould really sink my teeth into it all,both Goth and Glitter.”

For those who aren’t up on currentvampire lingo, Goth and Glitterrepresent two factions of vampirefandom. Think of them as roughly adivision between the Bela Lugosicontingent — Goth vampire fans whotend to favor the dark, classic,Dracula-like stories and films — andthe more contemporary Bella orGlitter crew (Bella is one of the maincharacters in Twilight, in whichvampires exposed to sunlight sparklerather than burn up.)

other traditional vampire garb dominated the scene. (The Twilight fans mostlydressed as characters from Twilight.) How did the two sides get along? “We alldanced and partied together through the brief hours of Alaskan summerdarkness,” Wolf reports, with many fueled by libations like Drac’s Dirty Girl, Dusk‘til Dawn, First Kiss and Vampire’s Bite.

At other times during the week, the group gathered to play late-night vampireWheel of Fortune and vampire trivia games, though “the Goths might have groaned

a bit when Twilight questions came up,” Wolf admits. A few tried their hands at a vampire-themed fiction writing contest.

Winners from all the competitions — including scariest, sexiest, andfunniest costumes — took home prizes such as heart-shaped boxes.(“No bags of blood or anything like that,” Wolf says.)

Still, the magical red liquid was not forgotten. An onboard auction ofvampire-related items raised $600 for a charity dear to any vampire’s

heart: the American Red Cross blood donor services. How have these dentally endowed denizens of the dark come to rival the

Kardashians for modern pop-cultural supremacy? Author and vampire expert JohnEdgar Browning, who served as a guest lecturer aboard the Vamps at Sea cruise, saysvampire legends date back to the recesses of recorded history in many cultures, thengrew to full flower in the Balkans in the 1700s. He attributes their current popularity,in part, to uncertain economic times.

“People are angry, and with vampires they can project their fears ontosomething they hate and can kill,” Browning explains. But he also acknowledges


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“Whether Glitter or Goth, we’re allTeam Vampire,” Wolf proclaims, notingthat some people play on both sides.

Out of the mix emerged Vamps atSea, an ecumenical vampire conventionaboard Holland America Line’sZuiderdam in late June 2012. Thiscruise drew a group of just 30, “but it’sthe quality, not quantity, that counts,”Wolf contends, adding that “theweather was perfect for the occasion:gloomy, dark and rainy.” Most werewomen ranging in age from 14 to 74,hailing from across North America,including business executives, nurses,students, military and law enforcementpersonnel, and even an IRS agent.

This time the Goths outnumberedthe Glitters, and at the costume ball,where they flaunted their vampirefinery, those wearing long black andred Victorian dresses, capes withcollars, black wigs, faux fangs, and

During the week, the group gathered to play late-nightvampire Wheel of Fortune and vampire trivia games.

See even moreVamps At Sea

pictures!


that the new wave of vampire books and movies sometimes portray the humans asthe bad guys, with the vampires escaping death. “It’s weird,” he admits, “and wemay not understand it until years from now.”

Passenger Gail Stambor, a Chicago-area purchasing manager and longtimeGoth vampire aficionado, has a somewhat different explanation. “Vampires areusually handsome, sexy creatures – at least the modern-day rendering of them —who exude power. They’re every girl’s dream —well, every Goth girl’s, anyway.”Inevitably, the Vamps at Sea cruise beckoned. “I’m not a water person,” Stamboradds, “but I heard ‘vampires’ and went for it.”

Stambor says she especially enjoyed the scavenger hunt, which included finding10 vampire-themed items such as something a vampire would wear during the day(sunscreen was a popular choice) and something detrimental to a vampire’shealth. “My roommate and I found a red cedar stake at a totem-carving center ona shore excursion.”

Mary Cooper, an ex-paramedic from Shirley, Massachusetts, took her teenagedaughter, now 14, on both Alaskan vampire cruises. While she says she liked theTwilight emphasis of the first cruise, she enjoyed the “more intimate” feel of thelatest one. “I got to talk to the authors onboard (Browning, an author of a numberof Dracula books and studies, and vampire novelist C.J. Ellisson, whose R-ratedVampire Vacation is set in Alaska), and I liked learning about the vampiresubculture,” she says. “Is it a crock? Maybe, but it’s cool to hear about.”

Vampire subculture was at the heartof Browning’s lecture detailing hisobservations and experiences over two years with a community of self-identified vampires in New Orleans,who drink human or animal blood as away of boosting their energy. “They feelweak without it,” Browning explains,adding that the human donors, at least,are willing participants, setting themnecks apart from the victims of Dracula tales.

Browning believes that vampirecovens likely exist throughout theUnited States and Canada. Some oftheir members, he says, have evenexpressed interest in Wolf’s cruises,“though I’m not aware that any haveactually come.” He confesses that atfirst he did suspect one passenger ofbeing the real deal. “As it turns out,she wasn’t,” he notes. “But she wasincredibly flattered that I asked.”

Beyond Goth and Glitter, Browningsays vampire groupies range from themore conservative Twi-Hards (Twilightdevotees who appreciate the franchise’sethos of no human-vampire bloodsharing before marriage) to “fang-bangers” (who let vampires have theirway with them). Wolf, who falls cleanlyinto the Twi-Hard camp, nonetheless isconsidering gothic, Dracula-centeredEastern Europe as a destination for hernext vampire cruise. “I’m thinking ariver cruise from Budapest to Bucharest,with a side trip to Transylvania.”

Stay tuned — sounds like you mighteven meet the real deal on that one.

For more information about futurevampire cruises, call (800) 745-7545,write [email protected], or go towww.vampsatsea.com. �

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1-800-CRUISES or CruisesOnly.comDiscover the benefits of group travel. Call our group cruise experts at 1-888-WOW-GROUPS! (1-888-969-4768)

Most importantly, you’ll feel like a million, because Norwegian Cruise Line’s patented Freestyle Cruising® provides you with all of the flexibility you’ll need to customize and enjoy your vacation completely.

NCL boasts the most innovative fleet found on the high seas. Norwegian Epic introduced cruisers to the next generation of Freestyle Cruising® via her cutting-edge collection of features; in 2013, she will be joined by the all-new Norwegian Breakaway, which blends the

best of Epic and NCL’s popular Jewel-class with a number

of offerings previously unavailable aboard any ship in the fleet.

Onboard Spending!

NEW NORWEGIAN BREAKAWAY ARRIVING IN SPRING 2013!

Please see our full-page ad in this issue of Porthole Cruise Magazine for more details.

CRUISE LIKE ANORWEGIANand you’ll dine like a Parisian. You’ll also party like a Brazilian.Or chill like a Jamaican.Or surf like a Hawaiian.And love like a Venetian.

PH182_086-87 NCLSpread_Layout 1 10/8/12 2:49 PM Page 86

Terms & Conditions: Prices are in U.S. dollars per person (based on double occupancy) and do not include government taxes and fees or airfare (unless otherwise indicated). Onboard spending amount is in U.S. dollars per stateroom and based on the category booked; applicable on select suites or higher categories aboard select cruises booked at least nine months prior to departure. Spending amount will be applied to the first and second guests in a stateroom. AARP discount of up to 5% is valid on select cruises booked at least nine months prior to departure. Proof of AARP membership, along with date of birth and zip code, is required at time of booking. If guest’s AARP membership cannot be verified, booking(s) will be repriced and guests will be responsible for the difference in cruise fare. NCL reserves the right to charge a fuel supplement, without prior notice, should the closing price of West Texas Intermediate Fuel rise above $65 per barrel on the NYMEX. In the event a fuel supplement is charged, NCL will have sole discretion to apply the supplementary charge to both new and existing bookings (regardless of whether such bookings have been paid in full). These supplementary charges are not included in your cruise fare; the fuel supplement will not exceed $10 per passenger, per day. All offers are capacity controlled, subject to availability, and may be withdrawn at any time without prior notice. Ships’ Registry: Bahamas

3 & 4 NIGHT BAHAMASNorwegian Skyfrom Miami visiting Nassau, Great Stirrup Cay (private island) from

$1697 NIGHT BAHAMAS & FLORIDA

Norwegian Gem or Norwegian Jewelfrom New York visiting Port Canaveral, Great Stirrup Cay (private island), Nassau from

Nobody beats our price! $3797 NIGHT WESTERN CARIBBEAN

Norwegian Pearlfrom Miami visiting Great Stirrup Cay (private island), Jamaica, Grand Cayman, Cozumel from

$3997 NIGHT BERMUDA

Norwegian Dawn or Norwegian Breakaway from Boston or New York visiting King’s Wharf, Bermuda fromBreakaway’s inaugural season! $479

7 NIGHT EASTERN CARIBBEANNorwegian Epicfrom Miami visiting St. Maarten, St. Thomas, Nassau from

$5397 NIGHT GLACIER BAY

Norwegian Sunfrom Vancouver or Whittier cruising Hubbard Glacier & Glacier Bay or Icy Strait Point and visiting Ketchikan, Juneau, Skagway from

Nobody beats our price! $5797 NIGHT ADRIATIC/GREECE/TURKEY

Norwegian Jadefrom Venice visiting Dubrovnik, Athens, Izmir, Split from

Nobody beats our price! $649


7 NIGHT ALASKA Norwegian Jewel or Norwegian Pearlfrom Seattle cruising Sawyer Glacier and visiting Ketchikan, Juneau, Skagway, Victoria from

Nobody beats our price! $6697 NIGHT GREEK ISLES

Norwegian Jadefrom Venice visiting Corfu, Santorini, Mykonos, Olympia from

Nobody beats our price! $6997 NIGHT MEDITERRANEAN

Norwegian Epicfrom Barcelona or Rome visiting Naples, Rome, Livorno, Marseille, Mallorca from

Nobody beats our price! $7197 NIGHT HAWAII

Pride of Americafrom Honolulu visiting Kahului, Hilo, Kailua-Kona, Nawiliwili from

$1,0497 NIGHT BALTIC CAPITALS

Norwegian Starfrom Copenhagen visiting Berlin, Tallinn, St. Petersburg, Helsinki, Stockholm from

Nobody beats our price! $1,099

PH182_086-87 NCLSpread_Layout 1 10/8/12 2:49 PM Page 87

We asked for ’em, and you showed us some great porthole picks! Here’s this issue’s selection of favorites. If you have a great porthole photo that you’d like to beconsidered for an upcoming issue or on our Facebook page, email it to [email protected] or mail to “Show Us Your Porthole” Porthole Cruise Magazine,6261NW 6th Way, Suite 100, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309. (Hard copies will not be returned.) Note that by submitting photos, you are indicating that you have the rights and authorization to do so.

Disney Dream by Kouri Miller

Star Princess by Tracy Davis

Carnival Splendor by Marcia Gold

Carnival Victory by Rachael KosobuckiCarnival Pride by Barb W. by Patrick Capilouto

Carnival Pride by Dan Stacko Disney Fantasy by Mary Jo Collins

by Susan Capilouto

PH182_088 show_us_ ph132 master 10/10/12 12:32 PM Page 88

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