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Portugal – The Algarve at Christmas
Naturetrek Tour Report 23 - 29 December 2013
Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England
T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426
E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk
Report & images compiled by Stuart & Jill Elsom
Hoopoe Little Bittern
Purple Swamphen Great Bustards
Tour Report Portugal – The Algarve at Christmas
© Naturetrek February 14 1
Tour Leader: Stuart Elsom Ornithologist
Jill Elsom Ornithologist
Participants: Helen Crowder
Malcolm Crowder
Andy Johns
Kirsty Johns
Chaz Shaw
Judy Shaw
Julie Wilkinson
David Wilkinson
David Faulkner
Jean Faulkner
Judith Shilston
Marion Dale
Naomi Crosby
Claude Smith
Anna Caudwell
Day 1 Monday 23rd December
Fine and warm
Some group members arrived a day or so early, and the remaining group members met Stuart and Jill at Faro
Airport after their flight from the UK. With it being a late afternoon flight, the only birds we could muster en
route were a few Cattle Egrets flying over, probably to roost nearby. We arrived at the Hotel Memmo Baleeria,
Sagres, mid-evening.
Day 2 Tuesday 24th December
Dry and bright with a stiff breeze
The day started with a leisurely breakfast overlooking the harbour. Black Redstart and Common Sandpiper
pottered about on the lawn and a couple of Chiffchaff joined the local Sardinian Warblers as they fed amongst
the Red-hot Pokers outside the restaurant.
After breakfast, we drove the short distance to the open steppe area near Sagres Farm. No sooner had we
stepped outside the vehicles when a superb male Hen Harrier appeared and showed well to us all, and a little
further along the track we enjoyed great looks at four Red-billed Choughs and a male Peregrine. There were
plenty of passerines in the open grassland including Goldfinch, Corn Bunting and Linnet, as well as the
ubiquitous Crested Lark.
Portugal – The Algarve at Christmas Tour Report
2 © Naturetrek February 14
Driving east for roughly an hour we reached Pera Marsh. Here we enjoyed watching Greater Flamingos, a single
Caspian Tern with 3 Sandwich Terns, and a comical Purple Swamphen clambering around the reeds. Waders
were well represented with Sanderling, Dunlin, and Curlew Sandpiper joining Kentish Plover, Black-winged Stilt
and Common Snipe, all feeding in the vicinity of the large pool.
We had our packed lunch while sitting on the very well positioned benches at Pera Marsh before heading off to
Ria Formosa National Park. Here we studied a roost of egrets with hundreds of Little and Cattle Egrets huddled
together and more flying in, almost resembling a snow scene, whilst hundreds of Mediterranean Gulls, several
Pintail, Wigeon and Gadwall swam around on the enclosed lagoon. Nearby in strengthening winds we had good
but brief views of Short-toed Treecreeper, Firecrest and Crested Tit in the Pine woodlands.
Day 3 Wednesday 25th December
Overcast, gale-force winds and some rain
Christmas Day dawned with a bang. Overnight gale-force winds had whipped up a huge sea and gusts so strong
you could hardly stand up. We tried birding around Sagres Pousada but the wind nearly blew the group back to
the hotel! As we headed towards Cabo San Vicente it was obvious that there were literally thousands of Gannets
moving offshore. It was then I had the idea of trying a seawatch. Getting everyone out of the wind and within
the cover of the lighthouse wall we commenced our collective stare out over the sea - this proved to be a good
move and we were rewarded with over 60 Great and 10 Pomarine Skuas, 20 Balearic Shearwaters, 30 Kittiwakes
and as previously mentioned, thousands of Gannets as they were pushed ever closer to the cliffs! The skies got
blacker though and the heavens eventually opened - time to move on!
After a leisurely lunch at the hotel we set out to explore the west coast. The rain had stopped and although still
very windy we were keen to see what we could find. Taking a narrow coast road we soon found ourselves at
Carrapateria headland; the Gannets were still moving in huge numbers but were 3 or 4 times closer than at the
Cape. Another seawatch for those keen to get blown inside-out produced much closer views of another 50+
Great and 10 Pomarine Skuas, at least 30 Balearic Shearwaters, 20 Sandwich Terns, 30 Kittiwakes, 3 Puffins, 2
Guillemots and, perhaps best of all, 2 lingering Leach’s Petrels which most of the group managed to see. We
worked our way back to the hotel via a pool full of Iberian Water Frogs, well to be more accurate, a pool full of
invisible Iberian Water Frogs. It sounds daft but we knew they were there as we could hear them croaking!
Day 4 Thursday 26th December
Warm and sunny
Today saw us head inland to the Alentajo region, famed for its Bustards and Sandgrouse. I just knew today
would be a good one when Helen found a superb Black-shouldered Kite perched atop a roadside bush 10
minutes into the journey! Reaching Castro Verde around two hours later we headed for a village called Sao
Marcos. Stopping to check out some close White Storks we discovered a flock of 33 Great Bustards feeding with
4 Cranes only a few hundred metres from the roadside. Parking the vans nearby and walking back to the spot we
then enjoyed a real ‘purple patch’ with 19 Little Bustards, Black Vulture, Booted Eagle, Black-shouldered Kite,
Peregrine, Red Kite and another 18 Great Bustards flying in, all in the space of an hour!
Portugal – The Algarve at Christmas Tour Report
© Naturetrek February 14 3
Moving further down the valley through Cork Oak forests and into more dehesa to enjoy lunch and a coffee, our
next stop produced 4 Hoopoes, several dozen Iberian Magpies and great close up views of Southern or Iberian
Grey Shrike. Working our way to the open steppes we flushed 9 Little Bustards from the roadside, pulling over
to watch them flying past then flushed another 4 Little Bustards, followed a few moments later by calling
Calandra Lark overhead. Our most exciting few minutes were still to come when Simon’s group radioed to say
they’d found a Great Spotted Cuckoo whilst looking for our Little Bustards, this in turn caused us to walk back
up the track which produced no fewer than 15 Black-bellied Sandgrouse and a distant flock of 50 Little Bustards.
As we were watching the sandgrouse, Julie and Jean called a flying raptor, ‘definitely an eagle!’ was the cry -
expecting a Booted Eagle I had to do a double take when it banked and showed us it was actually a young
Spanish Imperial Eagle - well done ladies!
Working our way back to the open area we eventually saw the Great Spotted Cuckoo, along with a few more
sandgrouse, another 15 Great Bustards, 2 male Hen Harriers and a Merlin. Well who can top that? Well actually
we can, as a few miles later as dusk drew in, we had another perched Black-shouldered Kite - our third of the
day!
Day 5 Friday 27th December
Heavy rain, dry for a while then rain again
Our first stop today was the mountainous area of Monchique. As we wound our way up the twisty roads towards
the summit it was clear that the wet weather was set in for the day. This did not deter us however and after some
warm drinks and a look around the souvenir shop we headed out into the rain. The only birds active in the poor
weather were a pair of Rock Buntings which showed briefly before taking cover. The weather then closed in,
giving us the choice of standing in in the pouring rain, sheltering in the cafe or heading down and into the fine
weather visible in the distance - only 1 choice then! Heading down from the summit we stopped once we hit
some dry weather. A 30 minute wander around a wooded valley produced Bonelli’s Eagle, 20+ Crag Martins, 2
more Rock Buntings and a flock of rather mobile but nonetheless entertaining Common Waxbills.
Heading down to the coast we had our lunch and then spent the next hour drying out and enjoying some quality
birding at Quinta do Lago. This produced great looks at many shorebirds including both godwits, Spotted
Redshank and numerous Kentish Plovers. Just then the heavens then again opened, leaving us lusting after hot
showers and a nice meal. Back to the hotel we went and the hot showers and meal were excellent!
Day 6 Saturday 28th December
Warm and sunny with light showers in the afternoon
Today we woke to bright sunshine and a blue sky! We started at the excellent limestone gorge at Rocha de Pena
where we saw a couple of Blue Rock Thrushes, a few butterflies including Small Copper and Clouded Yellow
together with a few floral highlights, most notably Friar’s Cowl, looking, well a bit like a Friar’s Cowl! Nearby an
Iberian Green Woodpecker called every so often but refused to come and show itself. When we left to head
south, some lucky group members then saw (from the bus) another Iberian Green Woodpecker fly over the road
just outside the village.
Portugal – The Algarve at Christmas Tour Report
4 © Naturetrek February 14
We headed down to Quinta do Lago to finish off our birding there after getting so abruptly soaked the previous
day. Quinta golf course pools proved very productive with Purple Swamphen by the dozen, Cetti’s Warbler
singing, Hoopoes strutting about on the putting greens and Serins singing from the Pine trees. Best birds here
however were the 3 Little Bitterns which showed well in the reeds. Turning our attention to the saltmarshes we
got great views of Greater Flamingo, Black- winged Stilt and both Bar-tailed and Black-tailed Godwits. Nearby,
we searched along the muddy edges for the elusive Bluethroat. After brief views of a female, a male perched up
for a few seconds and gave us all a great view of his pale blue throat, bordered by a black and white necklace and
rich reddish-brown breast band. He soon dived for cover, not to re-emerge, so we called it a day and worked our
way back to the hotel.
In the evening we were treated to a superb selection of local food as we moved from one restaurant to another,
finishing up with a wonderful meal - a great way to end our final full day by drinking a toast to the Algarve at
Christmas.
Day 7 Sunday 29th December
Warm and sunny
Our final morning had come and what better way to enjoy it than a visit to the fortress at Sagres Pousada and
then to the farmland where we had actually started the tour exactly one week ago. Arriving at the fort we were
informed that it was free to enter on Sunday mornings so we had a leisurely stroll around the open scrubby areas
situated inside the fort. Over the next hour or so we saw some quality birds including a very confiding Zitting
Cisticola, several feeding parties of Serins and a gorgeous glossy black male Black Redstart. Checking out the
nearby buildings we got great views of a single Red-billed Chough when two thrushes flew out of nearby scrub.
One was definitely a Song Thrush as the characteristic nervous ‘tik’ was heard but the other thrush dived into
cover before we could confirm it was just another Song Thrush. Helen walked gently into the scrub whilst we all
waited for movement, suddenly a thrush flew out and onto a nearby bush, a Song Thrush for sure, it was
followed seconds later by a darker thrush which also perched up - not another Song Thrush but a superb
Redwing!
Following our very enjoyable hour at the fortress we headed to the nearby farmland. Jill and I commented to the
group that on our pre-tour recce we’d watched a Little Owl dozing in the sunshine on an open tiled roof.
Driving along the track and scanning ahead of us I saw a small ‘bump’ protruding from the roof on our left,
getting a scope on it confirmed that our Little Owl was back and once again enjoying a few rays after the last
couple of windy and wet days. Driving along the sandy track down to the sea we checked out the cliffs to find a
beautiful powder-blue Blue Rock Thrush atop a rocky crag - this seemed a fitting way to end our birding, to head
back to the hotel, pack and depart. Travelling to the airport a few White Storks soared over the motorway and
the odd Iberian Magpie was seen as we stopped at junctions or traffic lights, however it was soon time to check-
in and head back to wet and windy UK, but as we did so we reflected on an enjoyable and relaxing weeks birding
in the Algarve - the perfect destination for Christmas!
On the final day Stuart asked all of the group members to send him their vote for bird of the trip. After all 15
votes were cast, there was a tie for first place between Great Bustard and Little Bittern with Bluethroat as the
runner-up.
Tour Report Portugal – The Algarve at Christmas
© Naturetrek February 14 1
Species List
Birds ( = recorded but not counted)
December
Common name Scientific name 23 24 25 26 27 28 29
1 Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa 5 2
2 Gadwall Anas strepera
3 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos 20 10 20
4 Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata 5 10 10
5 Eurasian Teal Anas crecca 25 40 20
6 Wigeon Anas penelope 12
7 Common Pochard Aythya ferina 15 10
8 Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula 7
9 Leach’s Petrel Oceanodroma leucorhoa 2
10 Great Shearwater Puffinus gravis 1
11 Balearic Shearwater Puffinus mauretanicus 50
12 Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus 1
13 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 2 3 4
14 Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus 5 2
15 Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis 1
16 Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus 10 4 8
17 White Stork Ciconia ciconia 6 20 100+ 20 5
18 Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia 4 6 4
19 Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus 3
20 Great White Egret Egretta alba 1 1
21 Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 50 200 2
22 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 6 1 4 3
23 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 4 2 1 5 3
24 Northern Gannet Morus bassanus 2 1000+ 1 2
25 European Shag Phalacrocorax aristotelis 2 3 1
26 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo 150
27 Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus 3 1
28 Red Kite Milvus milvus 15
29 Cinereous Vulture Aegypius monachus 1
30 Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus 2 2
31 Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus 1
32 Spanish Imperial Eagle Aquila adalberti 1
33 Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciata 2
34 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo 4 2 6 5 3 2
35 Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus 2 1 3
36 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 5 3 4 5 6 4
37 Merlin Falco columbarius 1 1
38 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 1 1 1
39 Great Bustard Otis tarda 75
40 Little Bustard Tetrax tetrax 90
41 Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio 3+ 12
42 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
43 Eurasian Coot Fulica atra
44 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
45 Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta 2 1
46 Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus
47 Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola 20 12
Portugal – The Algarve at Christmas Tour Report
2 © Naturetrek February 14
December
Common name Scientific name 23 24 25 26 27 28 29
48 Golden Plover Pluvialis apricaria 20
49 Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula 4 7 3
50 Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius 1 1
51 Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus 5 6 2
52 Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago 2 1
53 Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa 1 2
54 Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica 6 2
55 Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus 5
56 Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata 2
57 Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus 1
58 Common Redshank Tringa totanus 6 5 3
59 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia 2 1
60 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 3 1 4 3 2
61 Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres 3 2 4 3
62 Sanderling Calidris alba 3 15 20
63 Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea 2
64 Dunlin Calidris alpina 7 10 5
65 Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus
66 Mediterranean Gull Ichthyaetus melanocephalus 200+ 50 20
67 Common Gull Larus canus 4
68 Great Black-backed Gull Larus marinus 1 1 1
69 Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis
70 Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus
71 Kittiwake Rissa tridactyla 70
72 Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia 1
73 Sandwich Tern Thalasseus sandvicensis 3 10 6
74 Great Skua Stercorarius skua 1 100+
75 Pomarine Skua Stercorarius pomarinus 10
76 Puffin Fratecula arctica 3
77 Guillemot Uria aalge 1
78 Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis 20
79 Rock Dove / Feral Pigeon Columba livia
80 Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus 6 1
81 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto
82 Little Owl Athene noctua 1
83 Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius 1
84 Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis 1 2
85 Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops 1 8 1 4
86 Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major 1 1
87 Iberian Green Woodpecker Picus viridis sharpei 1+
88 Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis 4 6 1 2
89 Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius 2 2
90 Iberian Magpie Cyanopica cooki 4 50 30 20 10
91 Eurasian Magpie Pica pica 1 1 2 2
92 Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax 4 4 3 5
93 Western Jackdaw Coloeus monedula
94 Carrion Crow Corvus corone 5
95 Northern Raven Corvus corax 2 2 2
96 European Crested Tit Lophophanes cristatus 2
97 Great Tit Parus major 3
98 Eurasian Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus 2 1 4
Portugal – The Algarve at Christmas Tour Report
© Naturetrek February 14 3
December
Common name Scientific name 23 24 25 26 27 28 29
99 Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra 6
100 Crested Lark Galerida cristata 4 3 7 2 5 3
101 Thekla Lark Galerida theklae 2
102 Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis 6 4 10
103 Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris 2 1 20 30 4
104 Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti 2H
105 Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita 6 2 4 7 5 8
106 Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis 2 1 1 4
107 Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla 1 1
108 Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala 7 10 2 5 7 6
109 Common Firecrest Regulus ignicapilla 1
110 Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla 1
111 Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor
112 Common Blackbird Turdus merula
113 Song Thrush Turdus philomelos 1
114 Redwing Turdus iliacus 1
115 European Robin Erithacus rubecula 2 4 2 3
116 Bluethroat Luscinia svecica 3
117 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros 6 1 1 1 2 3
118 European Stonechat Saxicola rubicola
119 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius 2 2
120 House Sparrow Passer domesticus
121 Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild 20
122 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 1 1 1
123 White Wagtail Motacilla alba
124 Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis
125 Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs 2 4 3
126 European Serin Serinus serinus
127 European Greenfinch Carduelis chloris
128 European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
129 Common Linnet Carduelis cannabina
130 Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra
131 Rock Bunting Emberiza cia 2 2
132 Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus 2
Mammals
1 Iberian Hare Lepus granatensis 1
Reptile & Amphibians
1 European Pond Terrapin Emys orbicularis 3
2 Fire Salamander Salamandra salamandra 1
Butterflies
1 Clouded Yellow Colias crocea 1 1
2 Wood White 1
3 Small Copper Lycaena phlaeas 1
4 Painted Lady Vanessa cardui 1 1
Portugal – The Algarve at Christmas Tour Report
4 © Naturetrek February 14
December
Common name Scientific name 23 24 25 26 27 28 29
Invertebrate - other
1 Megarian Banded Centipede Scolopendra cingulata 1
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Balearic Shearwater & Northern Gannets