OPTIMIZATION OF FABRIC

HANDLE FOR APPAREL END

USE

DR. B R AMBEDKAR NIT JALANDHAR

BY MAHESH PRATAP UNDER THE GUIDENCE OF DR. K.V.P.SINGHRoll no. 09210104

CONTENT

INTRODUCTION OBJECTIVE OF WORK LITERATURE REVIEW PLAN OF WORK REFERENCES

INTRODUCTION

The subjective assessment of the handle of cloth is one of the most important factors influencing the consumer's appreciation.

Vary from person to person As per the suitability of garment fabric involves various factor To measure the handle of a fabric there are two major

methods used which are: Kawabata evaluation system (KESF) Fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST)

KAWABATA EVALUATION SYSTEM (KESF)

In KESF primary hands value are consider:-• stiffness• smoothness• fullness and softness• crispness• anti-drape stiffness• scrooping feeling• flexibility with soft feeling• soft touch

FABRIC ASSURANCE BY SIMPLE TESTING (FAST)

FAST- used to measure the fabric handle properties. This system is specifically designed for use by tailor and worsted finisher to highlight problems that may be encountered by in making a fabric to garment.

The Fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST) system comprises four test methods:

FAST 1: COMPRESSION METER FAST 2: BENDING METER FAST 3: EXTENTION METER FAST 4: DIMENTIONAL STABILITY TEST

WHY FAST ?

Simple It is robust Cheaper (five time) and Mostly adopted for industrial application

FAST CONTROL CHART

BENDING RIGIDITY

LOW VALUE OF BENDING RIGIDITY SEAM PUCKER & PROBLEM IN

CUTTING Bending Rigidity is depends on bending length

& mass per area. HIGH VALUE OF BENDING RIGIDITY SEAM PUCKERING PROBLEM SOLVED BUT

PROBLEM IN MOULDING PRON TO BE OCCUR

EXTENSIBILITY

PROBLEM IN MOULDING , GIVES SEAM PUCKER

PROBLEM IN LAYING UP

PROBLEM MATCHING OF CHECCKS AND PATTERN

LOW EXTENSIBILITY HIGH EXTENSIBILITY

FORMABILITY

Formability

of the fabric

depends on

longitudinal

compressibili

ty (extension

modulus )

and bending

rigidity.

Formability measures the degree of compression in the fabric plane sustainable by it before buckling occurs.

LOW VALUE OF FORMABILITY

Indication of pucker during collar & cuff making

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

(L1-L3)*100/L1 HIGH VALUE

SEAM PUCKER AT FINAL STAGE

Should be below 1%

(L2-L3)*100/L3 HIGH VALUE

LOSS OF APPEARANCE

RELAXATION SHRINKAGE HYGRAL EXPANSION

OBJECTIVE OF WORK

To interrelate all the properties of fabric To convert physiological control system in system

engineering control system . To optimized all the fabric handle properties in good zone to

get a unique value as per engineering control system by developing a mathematical model.

LITERATURE REVIEW

WHAT IS ANN ???

• The human brain is made up of vast network of computing elements, called neurons, coupled with sensory receptors (affectors) and effectors. A neuron is a special cell that conducts an electrical signal. Neurons interact through contacts called synapses.

• An artificial neural network is one of the new intelligence technologies for data analysis. It imitates the behavior of biological neural networks to learn a subject from the data provided to it.

• There are mostly two type of control system which are used now a days to optimized the different process. The two systems are:-

o Physiological control system (handle properties)o Engineering control system

P.C.S. V/S E.C.S.

Physiological control systems, in general, are adaptive.

usually consists of components that are unknown and difficult to analyze.

nonlinear

to accomplish a defined task, and frequently

characteristics of its various components are generally known

can be linear or nonlinear

PHYSIOLOGICAL CONTROL SYSTEM

ENGINEERING CONTROL SYSTEM

PLAN OF WORK

MATERIAL

INSTRUMENT

Viscose knitted fabric sample with specifications

Number of sample Preparation of fabric finger print Optimizing the result which are

tested

Testing instrument – FAST (fabric assurance by simple testing)

REFERENCES

EFFECTS OF SOFTENERS ON MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF COTTON FABRIC GONG R.H. AND BHATIA.A, RJTA VOL. 13 NO. 4 2009

THE ASSESSMENT OF FABRIC HANDLE PART I: STIFFNESS AND LIVELINESS, VIVIENNE H. DAWES AND J. D. OWEN, VOL.62 NO. 5 MAY, 1971,PP-233-244

A CSIRO INTER-LABORATORY TRIAL OF THE KES-F FOR MEASURING FABRIC PROPERTIES LY N G AND DENBY E F

DIVISION OF TEXTILE PHYSICS, C.S.I.R.O., RYDE, SYDNEY, NEW SOUTH WALES, AUSTRALIA, J, TEXT. INAT., 2988, NO, 2, PP-198-219

PHYSILOGICAL CONTROL SYSTEMS, ANALYSIS, SIMULATION, AND ESTIMATION, MICHAEL C K KHOO, PHI, IEEE PRESS, PP. 1-24.

NEURAL NETWORK FUNDAMENTAL, WITH GRAPHS, ALGORITHMS, AND APPLICATION, BOSE N K, LIANG, TATA McGAW-HILL EDITION, PP. 1-8

TOTAL WEAR COMFORT INDEX AS AN OBJECTIVE PARAMETER FOR CHARACTERIZATION OF OVERALL WEARABILITY OF COTTON FABRICS, SHEELA RAJ AND SREENIVASAN S, JOURNAL OF ENGINEERED FIBERS AND FABRICS 2Z VOLUME 4, ISSUE 4 2009 FIBER AND TEXTILE RESEARCH IN INDIA.

THE MECHANICAL PROPERTIES AND FABRIC HANDLE OF POLYESTER-FIBRE 'SHINGOSEN' FABRICS, MATSUDAIRA M, J. TEXT. INST..1994, 85 NO. PP.158-172

PHYSICAL TESTING OF TEXTILE, SALVILLE,WOODHEAD PUBLICATION LIMITED, PP-

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