PREPAREJuly 2012Encouraging, Empowering and Enriching Your Journey

capturing w a t e r w i t h a

PLASTIC SHEETDig Your Own WELL :

Reviewsupplementing

Rainwaterwith

ContentsFilteration System 2

Rainwater 4

Capturing Water 5

Dig Your Own Well 7

Systems and Tanks 10

Tips to Water Storage 12

Review 12

Natural Springs 14

Water Sources 16

The Water of Life 21

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Age Appropriate Family Preparedness by Donna Miller

Age appropriate family prepared-ness is often a topic left off the table due to the wide variety of family approaches to preparedness plan-ning. However, we have seen some key elements that need addressing when discussing this wide and var-ied topic. At what age is it reason-able to begin teaching our children about preparedness planning? Do we deny them a ‘normal’ childhood by drills, gas masks and fear? Do we allow them to live in oblivion thinking life as they know it will al-ways be lollipops and fluffy clouds?Parenting is difficult enough as it is in our current time, but throw in the “prepping” mind-set, some young children, a tight budget and the signs of the times ahead and a family could be headed for a disas-ter greater than the collapse of our economy. That disaster would be: resentful children, bitter parents and a disassembled or at least discon-nected family unit.At this point we will refrain from giving a LIST of things to do or ac-cumulate for Family Preparedness, although that is often what people are looking for to prepare their fam-

ilies for emergencies. For now, we will focus on just a few of the intan-gibles that prepare your family.Parental Attitude must be Peace-ful and not anxious. Kids (from infant to teen) are thermometers. If you are prepping in a fearful or dog-matic fashion, they will react based on that attitude. Either they will become overly anxious and easily triggered to react poorly or they will simply rebel. After all aren’t we, as parents, supposed to protect them? How much faith do they have in us if we act like people possessed by fear and anxiety?Include, educate and involve kids. Explaining why you prepare and want them to be a part of it is more bonding than showing them all you’ve done for them (and expect-ing the accolades for it). Make it a fun, Family affair to learn new skills or build bug-out bags. Keep fear at bay by your attitude and enjoyment of doing this. Isn’t it a joy to pro-vide for and protect your family? Yes. Show that.Respect each teen and adult fam-ily member’s right to opt out. As painful and worrisome as it may be,

forcing someone to ‘buy into prep-ping’ is usually the most counterpro-ductive thing we can do. If you’ve fostered the other two above traits and a loved one decides not to live as you do, relax. By shear raising, when the time comes – he or she will know what to do or at least they will feel welcome enough of where to come (to you) in an emergency. By then, they will have understood the need and will be willing to con-tribute.If you shove Preparedness in the face of loved ones, if you Prepare out of fear like a control freak or if you become the martyr of your Family’s Preparedness Plan (you know, the mentality that “you have to do everything”) then your fam-ily is more likely to suffer a casu-alty of dismemberment than if you foster the ideals listed above. That casualty is likely to occur far sooner than an event of cataclysmic pro-portion that proves you need to have been prepared. You’ll want and need your Family Unit in that kind of situation. Lay the groundwork NOW to keep that most precious, irreplaceable commodity.

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One of the most important preparedness areas we must consider is water quality and purification. We simply can-not survive without fresh clean water. And if we aren’t care-ful, contaminated water can create all sorts of health issues. Proper filtering must become an essential part of our prepa-ration planning.Unfortunately, many people seem to take water for granted or are not as concerned with their water quality as they need to be. Since many municipali-ties have been providing water services to their citizens for a long time, we’ve become somewhat accustomed to hav-ing our water on demand. So, it is understandable why some people have become compla-cent and presumptuous about their water needs.Of course, there are multiple issues with depending on our current water provisions. In addition to the concerns of wa-ter disruption, what happens if the local reservoir is contami-

nated? Even during times of natural disasters such as hurri-canes, earthquakes and flood-ing, water quality can be com-promised. There is a reason why during some emergency events government officials will call for the boiling of wa-ter. The water has become too dangerous to consume due to contaminants. It goes without saying that we must be mindful to have a back-up water source. Beyond

that, it is also vital that we have a solid solution for water filtra-tion and purification. In look-ing for a Water Filter System as part of your preparation ef-forts, there are some important things for you to consider. You may be tempted buy the lower priced water filter sys-tem that retails for around $50, since that sounds like a rea-sonable price alternative for a family on a limited budget. But there are several prob-

Cheap Water Filtration System

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lems with filters at that low of a price scale. Most are re-ally only chlorine filters and not actual purifiers. Although chlorine removal is fine, that in and of itself is not enough anymore. Water contaminants including hormones, drugs, herbicides, pesticides, ben-zene and gasoline additives are present in groundwater and come through the tap straight into your sink - and ultimately into your body.Among water filters, reverse osmosis is the most expensive choice for home use. RO filters are used in large industrial ap-plications as well as in public facilities. In certain home ap-plications, reverse osmosis filters are the right choice, but for the most part the price and lack of filtration of certain con-taminants means you are better off choosing another filtration method. The best application for RO systems is desalination, which is the process of remov-ing salt from water.The more reasonably priced re-verse osmosis systems top out

in price at around $450. They generally include some form of micron filter combined with carbon filtration, RO and some sort of filter to balance pH lev-els and mineral content. You can get other water filter sys-tem devices that are the same quality or better than reverse osmosis for less than $150. The big difference is the mark-up by certain reverse osmosis distributors. Many harmful contaminants, such as trihalomethanes and volatile organic chemicals, which have also been linked to cancer, are not blocked by the cheaper models. In some cases, lead, which is toxic, is not even removed. Lead con-tamination is a big problem for many cities, not because the city water treatment facility isn’t doing the job, but because the pipes that run into homes are old and con t ami -nated.Bacterial cysts are

another type of contaminant that a cheaper drinking water filtration system typically can-not remove. They cause para-sitic infections in the gastro-intestinal tract and have been known to cause serious health problems and even death in the elderly, children and people with compromised immune systems.If those reasons are not enough to invest a little extra cash into a water filter system, then here’s another fact: cheap wa-ter filters cost more to use in the long run. They use, on average, more than 25 cents per day, as opposed to the 10 cents per day that more expen-sive filters use. The compa-nies draw you in by charging a lower price up front, but then charge more for replacement filter cartridges that need to be replaced at a higher rate. They also manufacture the cartridge to have a very short lifespan. Either way you look at it, you end up spending more when you purchase a cheap filter system.

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Ra i n wat e RSupplement Your water Supply with

as well. Keep in mind when col-lecting rainwater to drink that you must let it rain for at least 20 min-utes before drinking any collected water. This clears the air of pollut-ants, such as pollen and acids in the air. For emergency collection, turn an open umbrella upside down. The water will collect quickly, and in most cases, you can drink the water if you are sure the umbrella is not contaminated. Water that runs off streets, roofs, or any structure must be purified before it is safe to drink.You can also collect rainwater with a small sheet of plastic and a small depression in the ground. Scoop out a shallow depression and lay the plastic over the hole. Secure the plastic around the edges using some rocks or other heavy objects. Do not use any objects that can contaminate the water. Place a rock in the middle of the plastic to create a shallow de-pression, this provides a place for the water to collect. Let it fill up once then empty before drinking the water. During heavy rains, wa-ter can be collected by simply set-ting a bucket in the rain. It will not collect much but should be enough for hydration.

People have been collecting and storing rainwater for thousands of years. Clay pots have been discov-ered that are over 2,000 years old with evidence showing that the pots were used to collect and store rain runoff. People used this water for drinking and irrigation.Today there are many techniques for collecting rainwater. One of the easiest ways today is by using your home’s guttering system. Many homes have downspouts that chan-nel the runoff from roofs away from the home’s foundation. By using these downspouts properly, you can collect rainwater very easily into a rain barrel.To use a rain barrel and to prevent it from overflowing and causing wa-ter damage near your foundation, you can use a rain barrel diverter. The diverter is simply a “Y” shaped spout that connects to your exist-ing downspout. One section diverts water into the barrel while the other continues its normal path of chan-neling the water from the home’s foundation. You will have to cut a section from the spout to ensure the diverter is high enough to flow into the barrel. Use the cut section to connect to the other diverter end.Once the rain barrel is full, a flapper

valve closes from the rising water and then diverts all the water to the other spout to channel all the water away. The barrel is then full but will not over flow. You can purchase a barrel with a hose spigot near the bottom to water flowerbeds and gar-dens. Simply connect a garden hose to the spigot when ready to water. Gravity will force the water out.In emergencies, the water can be purified and consumed. Protect the water from squirrels, birds and in-sects by putting a screen over the top, or adapt a cover to fit by cutting a hole for the diverter spout. Barrels can be purchased in virtually any size and you can even use two bar-rel by adding additional diverters. Rainwater is soft and is excellent for bathing. There is no reason why you cannot put a galvanized tub nearby and fill it with soft rainwater for bathing in warm weather. You can even build an outdoor shower by at-taching a showerhead to a shower bladder. The bladders are black to absorb heat to help warm the water for showers. Simply fill the bladder from the rain barrel and allow it to warm.A barrel under a guttering spout is the easiest way to collect rainwater. However, there are other methods

by: trent Powers

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In a previous blog “Milking A Tree For Water” I wrote about the phenomena of transpiration and how to collect water by covering the end of a leafy branch with a plastic bag. This article explains a different approach using the same principal but by covering grass with a sheet of plastic.I decided to simulate an emergency scenario to improve a condensation sur-face by cutting open a 16 gallon sized plastic bag which spread out as a sheet measuring 2.5 feet by 4 feet. Because of its thin material and flimsy nature, the slightest breeze could blow it away so I attempted to weigh the bag down with small stones at the four corners. However, it still fluttered with the breeze. Since any fluttering could spill collected condensation back into the grass, I placed more stones around the edge until it was still. The key point here is to make sure your plastic sheet will remain still throughout the entire collecting process.I left this moisture collector alone for about a half hour then returned to find it holding a “beady” fog on the bottom surface. The first step in collecting this moisture was to protect it from touching the grass so I removed most of the stones keeping one at the corner. I pulled that corner of the sheet up and back until the entire sheet was completely inverted and lying flat on the grass. Then I gathered all corners together and lifted the sheet upward, thus consolidating the beads of water into larger drops that flowed down into the center of the sheet, forming a small puddle. I continued to tap the sides to consolidate all of the droplets into the bottom and then I carefully poured the puddle out the side and into a mea-suring cup (see picture).Under the environmen-tal conditions of the day, combined with the size of the sheet, I was able to col-lect about an ounce of wa-ter. Your results may vary. Larger sheets with greater surface area will yield larger volumes of water. It would be strategic to set out a number of sheets at the same time to increase the total yield of harvested water. Subsequently, I have used a thicker plastic sheet and found it much easier to control during the entire process. This would make a great weekend project and you would be more fa-miliarized with the process and have a “hands-on” experience.

Capturing Water With A Plastic Sheetby Ken Youngquist

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“Preparing you and your kitchen with tools, tips, skills and encouragement.”

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Many years ago, the only way any-one was able to obtain drinking wa-ter was to find a source such as a riv-er, creek or lake. The water source was a place of danger for many be-cause predators (the four and two legged ones) realized everyone and everything needed to find their way to that source. The only option to this danger was to find an indepen-dent, less community based source of water. People soon realized that wells or holes in the ground, if dug in the correct locations, would fill with water.

How to Pick the Right Loca-tion to Dig Your Well

Look for green foliage and grass; it should be greener and “lusher” than the surrounding area. This indicates there is water relatively close to the surface. Keep in mind once the well is dug you do not want water flow-ing across the ground from rainfall into your well. Therefore, do not dig your well in a depression. Why do you not want water running into your well from the surface? The ideal hand dug well receive its wa-ter from seepage well below ground level. Wells should fill from the bot-tom up. This ensures the water has been filtered by the soil. Rainwater running across the ground and flow-ing into your well is contaminated. Contaminates can include fertil-izers, animal wastes, human waste and so on. The ground’s surface for all practical purposes is contaminat-ed. Water that seeps into the ground and finds its way to your well has

been filtered by the soil. Keep your hand dug well at least 100 feet from any lake, pond or river. Water sources such as these can flood and contaminate your well. Do not dig near any dump stations, or commer-cial structures. You are looking for relatively rocky soil. Once you be-gin digging, you want the ground to maintain its shape and not collapse upon itself as you dig.

Tools and Materials Needed For a Hand Dug Well

Some materials will depend on how rustic you want your well. For safe-ty concerns, you will need to house your well to prevent someone from falling in if you plan on digging an open well.

• Pick Shovel and Pry Bar to dislodge rocks• Bucket and Rope: rope must be long enough to reach the bottom of the well• 24 Foot Ladder• Concrete if you plan to cap your well

Digging the Well

Begin digging and do not get rid of the rocks and soil that you have excavated from the well, keep the soil and rocks close. You will need the material for back fill. Your well can be virtually any size you want. However, the only advantage to a large well is its holding capacity. All wells will fill back up as the water is used. Keep it small, four foot across by four foot should be ample. Just make it big enough to ensure you have room to dig and fill the buck-et to be hauled to the surface. Dig a circular hole; this makes it less likely to collapse. You can shore up

Hand Digging Your Own Well

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Don’t Let Sal t Dominate Your Storage Foods and Endanger Your Family

All of MannaLife International products are great addit ions to your storage food preparation. Contact

your local distributor above to learn more.

Just One (1) Meal from common storage foods delivers between 30-51% of your

recommended DAILY sodium intake.

According to the CDC, most Americans should consume less sodium

(1,500 mg/day or less).

High Sodium Diets are associatedwith multiple health complications.with multiple health complications.

MannaFeast helps support a balanced diet by del iver ing a var ie ty of nutr ient dense whole foods in one, 10 mg serving.

27 Antioxidant Rich Frui ts & Berr ies 26 Powerful Greens and Vegetables 7 Nutr ient Dense Seeds, Nuts and SproutsFul l Spectrum Fulvic Mineral Blend Plus 22 Resi l ient , Beneficial Probiot ics

For more information contact :Special BULK pricing avai lable . Minimum 2 year

shelf l i fe .

We wi l l g ive you one guess why most storage foods have

long she l f l i ves . . .

the sides with brick once the well is dug or leave bare. Once the cas-ing and supply pipe is in place, you will back fill around the casing with rocks or chipped limestone. Wells that are drilled will have a casing pipe typically made of concrete that is lowered into the well and then the entire well is backfilled around the casing with crushed stone and con-crete. The well cap, which is con-crete, protrudes several feet above ground. Once completed the pump-ing system is lowered into the cas-ing. Many municipalities have code requirements for how far above ground the cap must extend. Many areas require a concrete pad encase the well to prevent runoff contami-nation as well. Once you reach wa-ter, keep digging. Dig until the hole has at least three feet of water in it. You want to ensure your hand dug well will fill back up quickly enough after drawing water from it to prevent running out of water. Remember, you want the well to fill from the bottom up. It will fill if you have reached the water table or have tapped into a source that feeds lakes or ponds in the area.For a very simple casing, you can use 1 ½-inch PVC pipe. Addition-ally you will need an elbow that fits the 1 ½ pipe and the other end must be adapted to fit the supply line which is 1 ¼-inch PVC. The supply line is attached at the bottom of the casing using the elbow and reducing adapter. Both pipes, when the well is backfilled, will protrude two feet above ground level. How to create a hand pump will be discussed later.The casing must have weep holes in it below the water depth, but not all the way at the bottom. Leave a foot of space between the holes and the elbow. Drill the holes around the pipe. The holes can be drilled using a half-inch spade bit. The weep holes

allow water to seep into the well casing. This is your source of water. The water seeps from the ground, fills up around the backfill and seeps into the casing. Before lowering the casing, fill the first bottom foot of the well with rocks or gravel. The casing and supply line will be cen-tered, so standing up should make it two feet above ground level. Back fill with rocks and gravel, the top few feet you can use soil, while en-suring the casing and supply line is centered. You won’t really know how much pipe you need until you have reached water.Some wells can be 20 feet deep or less. Once backfilled, to keep your well from filling with muddy water from ground runoff, you can pour a concrete slab that exceeds the wells diameter by one foot around. The concrete will cover the entire well. The casing will protrude from the concrete. Any water that seeps into the well at this point will be filtered by the soil. You want to prevent any runoff from filling your well from the top. Once you have complet-ed the well you should attempt to pump it dry to flush out any mud or other debris. Doing this also allows you to determine the recovery rate of your well.If you want a well without a casing where you simply lower a bucket to dip water, of course then you have an open well. However, this type of well will need to be shored up with brick, and a well housing must be built over the well for a hand crank and for safety. The housing must be such that humans or animals cannot fall into the well.

Hand Pump Basics

Materials needed to construct a hand pump and operate in a well with a 1 ½ PVC casing:

• 1 ½ and 1 ¼ white PVC pipe for hand pump: length is determined by well depth• 1 ½ PVC pipe to run from well casing to where you want the water pumped to• Pipe Cap sized to cap off Piston Pipe• PVC elbow to fit the 1 ½ PVC pipe and adapter to fit the 1 ¼ pipe• Well casing pipe which is the 1 ½ PVC pipe• Pipe Glue• Epoxy Glue• Additional length of 1 ¼ PVC pipe to be used as the Piston

The simplest hand pumps operate by hand. The pump has a piston, which drives the water by pressure. A very simple piston pump system can be fashioned to extract water from your well. The simplest method is to use the one half inch PVC pipe as the casing, and from this point assume the casing is the 1 ½ PVC. Before lowering the casing, you must at-tach the elbow to the bottom of the casing using the pipe glue. Weeps holes must be drilled into the casing as well. Use a ½-spade bit; ensure there is a space of at least a foot be-tween the weep holes and the elbow. This allows the pipe to hold water that can be plunged against with the piston pipe. The other end of the elbow must be adapted down to fit the 1 ¼ pipe. Both pipes will be pro-truding above ground when the well is backfilled. Once the well is back-filled, attach another elbow to the 1 ¼ pipe protruding above ground to run the water supply to where you want. This is the same concept used in bicycle tire pumps.

9

Don’t Let Sal t Dominate Your Storage Foods and Endanger Your Family

All of MannaLife International products are great addit ions to your storage food preparation. Contact

your local distributor above to learn more.

Just One (1) Meal from common storage foods delivers between 30-51% of your

recommended DAILY sodium intake.

According to the CDC, most Americans should consume less sodium

(1,500 mg/day or less).

High Sodium Diets are associatedwith multiple health complications.with multiple health complications.

MannaFeast helps support a balanced diet by del iver ing a var ie ty of nutr ient dense whole foods in one, 10 mg serving.

27 Antioxidant Rich Frui ts & Berr ies 26 Powerful Greens and Vegetables 7 Nutr ient Dense Seeds, Nuts and SproutsFul l Spectrum Fulvic Mineral Blend Plus 22 Resi l ient , Beneficial Probiot ics

For more information contact :Special BULK pricing avai lable . Minimum 2 year

shelf l i fe .

We wi l l g ive you one guess why most storage foods have

long she l f l i ves . . .

So what you will have when com-pleted is the casing attached to a smaller pipe with both sticking out of the ground. A piston pipe is low-ered into the casing to push the wa-ter into the smaller diameter pipe. This creates pressure that will push the water up the supply pipe. The piston pipe is another section of 1 ¼ PVC that fits snug into the 1 ½ casing pipe. The end that is lowered into the water is capped off or you can fill two inches of the pipe with epoxy glue. Attach a t-bar to the top of the piston pipe to make it easier to push. You are pushing the water through the pipe. An up and down pumping motion will build pressure as the water meets the smaller pipe, which increases the resistance.This is a very simple method and can be adapted in numerous ways. The materials can be found in any home and garden store. The weep

holes in the casing are what fill the casing. Once the piston clears the weeps holes, the suction will be bro-ken to begin pushing water again. Push the piston until the water pres-sure increases against the elbow. The smaller pipe creates additional resistance.To increase resistance without us-ing an elbow you can attach a P-trap, which is an “S” shaped fixture that can found under your kitchen sink. The P-trap is designed to hold water. The piston will always be pushing against the resistance in the trap. Resistance is the key to a hand pump. The supply pipe must be smaller than the source pipe or casing. The downward motion of the piston, even though the piston is not airtight in the casing, will create pressure against the smaller pipe. Pressure pushes water up the pipe. Smaller pipes will require less pres-

sure to move the water. The casing and supply lines can be sized to fit your individual requirements.It is important that the pump be as-sembled prior to lowering into the well. The backfill is what holds the casing and supply lines in place. Once backfilled you obviously can-not perform any work on the cas-ing. The pump is primed when the pistons raises above the weep holes. You can prime it by removing the entire piston if the fit is extremely tight to allow air into the casing.Finding the right location for a well, acquiring the proper tools and ma-terials, and creating your own hand pump may sound like daunting tasks – but the end result brings you one step closer to being self-suffi-cient and providing that necessary substance of water for you and your family.

877.562.2725

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We would like to share with you some of our water collection and storage solutions that we manufacture at Carolina Water Tank for spring water, well water, municipal water and last but not least rainwater harvesting.The best situation is to have or find a spring on your property. A spring is where the water comes to the earth naturally. We have a Water Collection System that accumulates the spring water as it emerges at the head of the spring. Once installed it filters off debris and passes the water by gravity to the spring box or reser-voir. The main purpose of the Water Collection System is to keep surface water (rain/runoff) from contami-nating the spring water. The Water Collection System is designed to adapt to many spring development situations. When the Water Collec-tion System is installed properly and the water is passing through the collection pipe, we recommend the installation of our Spring Box.The Spring Box is molded in one piece without seams. The large fric-tion-fit-cover slips on and off eas-ily for inspection and cleaning. The unit is outfitted with a water inlet,

water outlet, shut off cap, setting area, and gauging system.The Spring Box receives the col-lected water from the spring and filters a desired amount of water through the unique gauging system to the reservoir. The gauging system can be set at seven intervals ranging from 380 gallons to 1,520 gallons for a twenty-four hour period or the flow can be shut off to the reservoir. The gauging can be set or changed within seconds and is accomplished without valves or tools. By design, the flow of spring water insulates the filter to prevent freezing in cold weather.The Spring Box is designed not

to back up water to the spring, as any ap-preciable buildup of water pres-sure could re-duce the spring’s flow or make the water emerge at some other point. The surplus wa-ter flows out the overflow and drain outlet. From the Spring Box

the water flows to a reservoir (tank).A water holding tank receives fil-tered water from the spring box and

stores the de-sired quantity for use when need-ed. Proprietary green or grey color resin is de-signed to reduce and retard the growth of algae. The circulation of water through the reservoir and out of the overflow keeps water fresh and prevents freez-

ing within the holding tank. The standard set up for our water hold-ing tanks come with 1-1 inch water inlet, 1-1 inch water outlet and 1-1 inch overflow with pipe.We offer a wide range of water hold-ing tanks, above and underground for potable drinking water. The best way to decide the minimum size of tank is to determine how much use per day is needed per person to be stored and how quickly the flow to the spring can replenish the amount of water used.The perfect situation is a grav-ity flow system from a spring. This system is where the holding tank is located on an elevation above the desired point of use. The de-sired pressure is built up by fall of the water (1 foot of fall equals .43 PSI); thus, if you had 100 feet of fall you would have 43 PSI at delivery point. If there is not enough fall the holding tanks can be equipped with a pump delivery system. The pump can be installed internally or exter-nally to the tank. The pump situa-tion can be determined by the user with options such as solar, electri-cal, or ram.

Water Systems and Tanksby Stanley and Kelly Gaddy

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Well water and municipal water can be stored as simple as putting tanks in a basement, crawl space, garage, out building, etc… This can be done by simply tying in to your ex-isting water lines and installing float valves or switches to control the flow of input or output. This allows the extra water stored to circulate during use.If you want to take a tank and just fill it full of water for storage by well or mu-nicipal, the steps you will need to apply to maintain this water is to rotate at least ev-ery 3 to 4 months (this can vary) or you can maintain it by adding cal-cium hypochlo-rite, better known as pool shock. It must be 67% calcium hypochlorite only with no additional anti-fungals or algaecides. The amount you need to add depends on the size of tank.Rainwater can be used for drinking, cooking, and cleaning after being properly treated and can be stored for later use. With the right rain tank, all of your rainwater can be saved and utilized. A rainwater har-vesting system is a combination of many components: catchment area, conveyance, storage, delivery and filtration.The most logical catchment area is the roof of a building. To calculate the number of gallons that can be harvested, take the catchment area and square feet and multiply by depth of rainfall in inches by a con-version factor of .623 (100 sq. ft. x 1 inch of rainfall = 62.3 gallons). Us-ing this formula you can determine

what size tank and how quickly it can be filled.The conveyance consists of your guttering, downspouts and piping to storage tank. Guttering needs to be screened to keep large debris from entering the rain collection system and it is also recommended that a

first flush diverter is installed on your downspouts. The first flush diverter is a device that diverts the first water that flows off the catch-ment area from the storage tank; this water is the most contaminated due to pollutants from the air and from surrounding foliage and animals fe-ces. The diversion chamber is sized by the how many gallons per square feet of catchment area (1.5 gallons per every 100 square feet). The piping needs to be large enough to carry the volume of water that may fall in the hardest of rains.Your storage tank holds the water collected and is sized by the user. We recommend that you screen the water before entering the tank. The two options we offer for our tanks is our downspout adaptor which has an in-line screen or a basket screen. These screens have two functions, one is to catch any fine particles and

the other is to calm water before it enters the tank and create turbu-lence. Our tanks have a standard 2 inch overflow that is capable of carrying 23 gallons per minute of water. At this rate our tanks could handle a 1,000 square feet of roof at a rainfall rate of 2 inches an hour.

The overflow wa-ter can easily be plumbed away from the tank. The 1 inch water outlet can be plumbed as needed. Also, it can be fit-ted from the inside to accept a floating intake. A floating in-take is used mostly when water is going to be used for drink-ing. It is a floating device inside the tank that picks up the water at 4 to 6 inches below the top

of the water where the water is the most pure.Once the water has been collected in storage tanks, the process to de-liver is up to the user preference of gravity, electrical pump or solar.The preferred sanitation steps for making the water potable is to run through a treatment train consist-ing of a 3- to 5- micron filter and through a 0.5-1.0 micron filter and then a UV light. I recommend that one of the filters be an activated charcoal to improve the taste of the water.Prepping for your water supply should be one of your highest prior-ities. The important thing to remem-ber is that you should have at least 1 gallon per person a day for survival, 4 gallons per person per day will al-low personal hygiene. Average hu-mans cannot survive 3 days without water.

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AquaRain Gravity Water Filter

The AquaRain model 400 is a double-decker gravity water filter that consists of an upper and lower chamber and a lid. It combines 4 ceramic filters made from diatomaceous earth with granulated activated car-bon to trap bacteria and other undesirable elements in the filters to produce clean, fresh-tasting water almost effortless-ly. The simple design, non-elec-tric function and no chemicals or salt needed, appealed to my family since this fits in well with our back-to-basics and more natural preferences. In preparedness for water system breakdown or contamination, a gravity water filter is the most efficient filter for the home and the best choice for non-electric operation. The stainless steel Aqua Rain is my choice over the Pur Water Pitcher, the Sears Electric Water Distiller, the Katadyn Combi filter and the Katadyn plastic gravity wa-ter filter. The AquaRain model 400 is large enough to handle a whole day’s worth of filtered water for our family (where the smaller filters could not) and because of the Aqua Rain’s stainless steel housing, ceram-ic and carbon filtering system and efficient non-electric function.

I highly recommend the AquaRain water filter for anyone concerned about their family’s health.

Conclusion: RecommendedVickilynn Haycraft

Most everyone has heard the rule-of-thumb that a person can live 30 days without food but only 3 days without water, so this fact alone should move water storage to the top of the preparedness priority list!

But, what do you do if you are on a tight budget?

For drinking water you have a couple of options; you can purchase sterile/sealed water at your local grocery that will store for up to a year or you can bottle your own. Water can safely be stored in food grade plastic or glass containers which have tight fitting screw-on caps. Most food-grade containers are ones which previously held beverages, such as 2-liter soda bottles, water, or juice. Based on my prior research, I avoid using milk jugs because removing all the protein and fat residue is very difficult and could allow bacteria to grow during storage.

Some water vending companies will sell new, empty water containers which are good for water storage. Plastic food grade containers can also be purchased from your local house wares or sporting goods stores to make great storage for water. I use 2-liter soda bottles which I add 2-3 drops of unscented bleach to. These are rotated out every 12 months and they are kept in a cool, dark storage area. Sunlight tends to grow algae so you never want to store your drinking water within any threat of sunlight. Also, please remem-ber, bleach is bleach so there’s no need to go to the brand name – an off brand bleach will work and can be found on sale for as little as one dollar per gallon!

For grey (waste) water needs, such as dishwashing, laundry, or gar-den watering, a lot of people are turning to the large black barrels that hold 55 gallons of water. These are available at most local farm supply stores.

Craigslist.com is a very budget-friendly option for grey water catch-ment supplies. In our local area, a quick search returned a seller who was asking $2 each for 55 gallon drum! These drums quickly became our future grey water containers. Most of these drums I’ve seen previ-ously held pickles and they are food grade, but we choose them for rain catchment.

Please be reminded: before you start your water storage system, keep in mind the intended use of the water to insure its proper storage.

Budget-Friendly Tips for Water Storage by Lynette Fry

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is safe to drink as long as the wa-ter is tapped from the spring and is not collected from any natural depressions close by. However, this is providing there is not soil contamination in the area from an industrial complex, buried under-ground storage tanks or a waste dump nearby that may have con-taminated the soil from runoff. In the 19th century, springhouses were quite common. Homeown-ers would settle on land because of the abundance of water. They would find a natural spring and tap it for their water source. They would build a small shed, called a springhouse, over the spring. They typically dug a cistern and

ground aquifer that is higher geographically than the spring itself and grav-

ity plays a role in forcing the water to the surface.A fracture spring occurs where there is a break or fissure in rock faces or the earth itself. Many fracture springs can also have a natural cistern where the water collects as it breaks through the fissure. The water is typically safe to drink where it flows from the fissure. Water that has collect-ed in the cistern can be contami-nated by animals and blown de-bris. Water from seepage springs

Essentially a spring is a natural occurrence where water flows from underground up to the sur-face. There are seepage springs and fracture springs. Seepage springs are springs where the wa-ter has filtered through the soil and then finally reaches the sur-face. Typically, these springs can be found on hillsides, in caves and earth overhangs. They can be found occasionally on rela-tively flat surfaces as well. This is usually caused by an under-

Finding and Tapping a Natural Spring

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lined it with rock for water collec-tion. The spring flowed into the cistern. The springhouse was also used as a refrigerator because of how cool the springhouse stayed due to the water from the spring underneath. Owners stored vege-tables, meat, eggs and even milk in their springhouses.Today the concept is the same. However, pioneers had stouter stomachs than many do today so filtration must be considered when tapping a natural spring. You can make your own filtration systems using charcoal. Begin making your own charcoal filter by building a rather large fire us-ing only hardwoods (do not use pine). Never use any construc-tion material, treated lumber or any man-made fire logs or prod-ucts.While the fire is going, you can begin assessing your spring. The source of the spring is under-ground and as the water perco-lates to the surface, it is scrubbed clean. Only when water reaches the surface is it subject to con-tamination. You must protect the area where the water reaches the surface. To ensure your water is clean and safe you should filter it close to where it will be used, for example just before it reaches the tap or water spout inside the home.The spring in most cases will be higher geographically relative to the surrounding area. Therefore, you can use gravity to feed the spring into your home or struc-ture. To ensure clean water, ex-cavate several feet back into the spring and lay down some flat rocks for the water to run over.

You can build up the sides of the channel with stone as well. What you are doing is channeling the water so it can flow into a deliv-ery pipe to a location you want, such as your house or shelter.Use any safe pipe such as clay, tile, galvanized steel, copper or PVC to carry the water to your filtration station. The ideal filtra-tion container is a whiskey bar-rel. The barrel will already have a certain amount of charcoal built in. Fill the barrel with the char-coal you have made. It does not have to be entirely full. Have the pipe that carries the water flowing into the barrel. You will have to install a shut off valve in the pipe because you cannot have the water constantly flow-ing into the barrel. Many bar-rels have taps in them, so simply turn the tap for clean and well-filtered water. Protect the barrel from insects and other debris. If there is not a tap, install one near the bottom so gravity will force the water out. Change the char-

coal when it begins to lose some of its dark black color, or if you have run a usually large amount of water through the system. You will not necessarily need to filter spring water for bathing, wash-ing clothes or cooking. Filter the water for drinking, coffee, juices and oral hygiene.Back to making charcoal; pull the wood from the fire when it looks like charcoal. Smother the wood with ash or soil to keep it from burning down to ash and let the wood/charcoal cool. Store the charcoal in such a manner so it will not become contaminated. Crush into relatively small piec-es when ready to add to the filter barrel.Charcoal can remove many types of pesticides, heavy metals, chlo-rine and certain other chemicals, fuels such as diesel and gasoline, and certain solvents from the wa-ter. Charcoal cannot be used to filter certain toxins and poisons from deliberately contaminated water.

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Knowing how to effectively gather, clean and purify drink-ing water is a skill that everyone must understand. As we men-tioned previously, the days of simply drinking from the local creek are pretty much gone due to all the chemicals and waste be-ing pumped or dumped into our ground water systems today. In the end-times, the Bible tells us that all the waters will become bitter and as blood (Rev. 16:3-7), praise God for the provision that comes from He who is the living water!There’s a common misconcep-tion that you must ration water as you would food. This is not true. The effects of water deprivation come on too strong and fast and will affect you often before they

are realized; it’s best to sip your water methodically and normally. Guzzling, that is drinking a lot at one time will often upset your stomach if you have been with-out water for an extended period, which can lead to vomiting and a greater loss of precious fluids from the body. Dangers in Drinking Water Cholera – Cholera is the friend-liest bacteria found in water as it typically only leads to diarrhea. It is treated by continually replac-ing the lost fluids by drinking clean water. Continuing to drink cholera infected water however can lead to increased infection which will include leg cramps, vomiting, dehydration and shock,

which would require fluids to be replaced intravenously. Without proper treatment at an advanced stage, death can occur.Hepatitis A – Hep A is obviously not friendly as it’s a disease of the liver caused by viral infection. Symptoms include loss of appe-tite, nausea, vomiting, fever, dark urine, tiredness, and abdominal pains and jaundice (yellowing of the skin and eyes). While the dis-ease is not life-threatening it can take months to overcome its ef-fects with medication. Typically once overcome your body will create antibodies that will aid in the prevention of a recurrence of the disease. Giardiasis – Giardia is a single celled parasite that lives in the in-

Water Sources, Dangers, and Purifiers by Jason A. Hunt

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testines that is ingested by drink-ing water contaminated by sew-age. This organism can survive outside the body for a long time and is one of the most common waterborne diseases. Symptoms include greasy stools that tend to float, diarrhea, cramps and nau-sea. Advanced symptoms can lead to weight loss and dehydra-tion while others have no symp-toms at all. The problem is typi-cally alleviated by flushing the parasite from the body over a pe-riod of several weeks with clean fluids and medication if required. Chemical Pollutants – The big issue with chemical pollution is that it won’t boil out of your water. Most of the chemicals are heat resistant and must be filtered out through charcoal or another

type of filter system. If you find water in the middle of a tobacco, soybean or corn field, you can bet that the water has been contami-nated by some sort of chemical. Check for flora around the area and look at their condition – do they look healthy? Are they thriv-ing in the area? Are there fish or frogs in the water? Frogs in the water are a good sign of a proper ecosystem but this again is no guarantee of a chemical-free en-vironment. When in doubt, filter and boil it out. Natural Sources of Water Seasonal creeks and run-offs – These areas are typically only active during and shortly after a rain and should be treated like chemically polluted water since

normally anything sitting atop the ground surface will be flushed into the stream, thereby polluting the available water. These water sources should be filtered and boiled or chemically treated. Rainwater – Your best source of clean water comes from heaven above, collecting it is simply a matter of taking advantage of the weather and utilizing whatever containers you have available. If you are in a heavily industrial-ized area, however, you can get some chemical taste and possible infection. You can also collect rain water in the way of dew by tying cloth around your ankles and trekking through some tall grass. The cloth will quickly be-come filled with water which can be wrung out into a bowl or con-

tainer to be filtered of turbidity (solids in water). Rivers and Streams – Like creeks and run-offs, rivers and streams should be filtered when-ever possible and boiled. Mil-lions of people still rely on water from rivers and streams around the world for their daily water; drinking straight from the source, however, is not advised because bacteria and viruses can more easily reproduce in slow mov-ing water. And when the water is up, these sources fill with run-off from the surrounding areas and serve as nature’s toilet system, flushing waste out of the area. Plant Water - Here in the East-ern Woodlands and also in many jungles, water can be harvested from vines by cutting a section approximately 3 feet long at an angle on both ends; water will drip from of the cut surface of the vine and provide some needed hydration. If the water you find is cloudy or bitter coming from a vine, this should be avoided as it is the wrong species. You can also tap trees such as the maple or birch which provides sap which can be consumed as it is or boiled down to a sweet liquid much like syrup. In the desert, Aloe and Agave plants survive extended period of drought and store liq-uids in their leaves which can be harvested for liquid. Prickly pear cacti house hundreds of tiny spikes and contain liquid in their fleshy pads. Coconuts also provide a wonderful source of fluids which aids in the re-placement of electrolytes. Lastly,

you can place plastic tie bags over leafy boughs on live trees and al-low the sun to heat and condense the air in the bag which will cre-ate water after several hours. Filtering and Purifying Water Boiling – Boiling remains the best method of killing off the ma-jority of living organisms within water. Theories range from boil-ing 15-20 minutes to only bring-ing to a boil for a few moments. Again, keep in mind, boiling does not remove chemicals. Filtering – Filtering by means of a modern filter such as a LifeStraw or Katadyn are excel-lent for removing turbidity and many viral and chemical agents, but boiling first then using a filter such as these is your safest bet. When you know you have some chemically affected water you can also make a primitive filter from charcoal, grasses and sand. Filtering through these sediments within a container removes the majority of chemicals that could adversely affect your body. If you rely on a modern commer-cial filter, take time to read the instructions so you will know how to properly use it and un-der what conditions it will work most effec-tively.

Purification Tablets – If you use purification tablets of any type, read the instructions. They often make the water taste like bleach,

but it’s very safe to drink. When using these agents shake the wa-ter well to make sure the chemi-cal tablets reaches all the water in your container and if you have an enclosed container, be sure to flip it over so that cap is hit by the chemically cleaned water to kill off any hidden bacteria lurking in the cap. Desalination – If all you can find is salt water, you will have to de-salinate it (remove the salt). The salt in saltwater overworks the re-nal glands quickly which leads to kidney failure, shock and a host of other issues. Distill the water by hanging a can full of water over a fire and placing a clean cloth over the lid to collect all the steam. From time to time wring out the steam into a potable water container to drink once it cools. The salt that remains behind in the can should be utilized to sea-son game meats as you harvest them.

Solar Distillation – When in a pinch you can distill water sev-

eral different ways, one of which is by putting it into a clear bottle and allowing it to bake in direct sunlight all day (8-10 hrs). This allows the water to condense in-side the bottle and rain back down much like it would in a terrarium. The key is to not completely fill the bottle as you need that air space in there to allow the liquid to condensate along the top of the bottle while lying on its side. Other methods are as simple as placing some plastic sheeting over a hole with a container in the middle to collect the water. Place some greenery in the hole around your container and allow the sun to heat the plastic which forces water from the plants creating condensation which drips back down into your container. The main thing with water is that you must understand several ways of finding it and cleaning it so that it may be used to pro-long your life in a survival situ-ation. Looking back at those in Hurricane Katrina; many died of dehydration and exposure simply because they didn’t know how to make a quick shelter or clean and purify water, despite all the water around them. Of course, even if you understand how to do these things it will never do you a bit of good unless you practice these skills on a regular basis. I believe these are perishing skills that need continual refinement. By practicing on a regular basis in a variety of atmospheres and conditions you will be better pre-pared to manage an emergency should you be involved in one.

Of course, the scriptures are also filled with examples of how God provided water for the Israelites in their desert wanderings. In Ex-odus 15: 22-27, we read the ac-count of the bitter waters found at the oasis called Marah (which means bitter). God instructed Moses to place a tree into the wa-ter which made it good to drink. The Hebrew word for tree in this passage is es which can mean any part or product produced by a tree from the roots and leaves to branches or planks cut from the same. Whether or not this means God taught Moses how to construct a filter or not isn’t made clear, but in any case God made the water drinkable and we should pray for the same results should we be faced with similar circumstances. In Exodus 17:6 we read that again God provided water for the Isra-elites when Moses struck a spe-cific rock. This rock in Hebrew is sur which has the meaning of

flint, a title of God and a place of safety and security; this is very interesting as all of these mean-ings describe Jesus Christ: His face was set as flint… Isa-iah 50:7He is the rock of our salva-tion… 1 Corinthians 10:4He is our refuge in the day of tribulation… Jeremiah 16:19From Him will flow rivers of living water… John 7:37-39 Like the greater purpose of shel-ter, providing a means of our protection from the elements and serving as an eternal symbol of what our Messiah has done and a rehearsal for what he will do for us; water is also a symbol that points us to Him as our source of refreshing and life – without water, man cannot survive – just as man cannot live without being born again in Christ Jesus (John 3).

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The Water of Lifeby Jeff Rowland

The word of God is full of information concerning the power of water. Jesus met a woman one day by a well that was full of fresh drinking water and said, “whosoever drin-keth of the water that I shall give him shall never thirst; but the water that I shall give him shall be in him a well of water springing up into everlasting life.”

Thank God for the ability to find water and the ability to dig wells that brings forth water for the weary. How God could use all who are willing to give to another who is thirsty, life sustaining water. But how much greater would it be to show people how they can have a well of water springing up inside them that would produce life giving water?

We know that Jesus is referring to a thirst that is much deeper than that of water. Water is what is needed for a thirsty body but only Jesus can satisfy the thirst of the soul. Many who are looking for the next great teaching or teacher, or those who are looking for the next great purpose or goal to reach, are really looking for the satisfaction of the thirst that is deep within their soul.

We learn from this passage found in John chapter 4 that Jesus will give to all who ask. The Woman at the well pointed out that Jesus was a Jew and she was a Samaritan, which meant by the society’s standard they should have nothing to do with each other. Jesus did not operate by society’s standard but by His standard. The standard of God is to give a thirsty soul water and a hungry soul food. To give light to those who are in dark-ness and shelter to those out in the cold. Jesus said whosoever drinks of the water He gives. I’m so thankful that He didn’t turn me away because of how weary, wicked and thirsty I was, but was willing to give to me the water of life and place within me a well of satisfaction to draw from when my soul would be weary.

We learn from this passage in John chapter 4 that the water Jesus gives will always be available. His water forms a well inside of us that springs up into life that is everlast-ing. It is only Jesus that can take care of what the heart is really longing for. The desire deep within us can only be satisfied by life. That’s what motivates man to any action. Life is what we long for. Anything that we can attain or find to help aid in the pursuit of life is the motivator to action that we need.

The power of life is in Jesus. All those who come to Him will attain life everlast-ing. This is the greatest preparation we could ever make. The Father in Heaven prepared for our salvation by giving to us His Son Jesus as our personal Savior. The only way toward everlasting life and eternal destiny in heaven is to prepare by placing your faith in the giver of life giving water. Get prepared today.

A Pastor’s Perspective

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Ken YoungquistKen Youngquist is the creator of Survi-valtek, a website dedicated to teach-ing the ways and means to survive. From his youth, Ken was captivated by primitive living skills, and in his adult-hood was intrigued by the television Series MacGyver. The result has been the study and practice of survival skills and the desire to pass on the mantle of preparedness to others. You can visit and learn more at: Survivaltek.com

Donna MillerDonna Miller is a teacher, author, sought-after speaker and trainer. She has been both guest and host on in-ternet and broadcast radio talk-shows and in television interviews. She enjoys teaching online and local classes & la-dies retreats for others to learn more than head-knowledge of prepared-ness skills. Donna is happily married and has three adult children. She and her husband (Joseph) are the founders of both Millers Grain House and Your Preparation Station.

Lynette Fry

Lynette Fry is a freelance writer, in-structor, speaker, website and talk radio hostess. She enjoys hosting her weekly talk radio program ‘Prepping On A Budget’ on Blog Talk Radio. Her passion is providing others with the necessary tools to move forward in their own preparedness journey and she accomplishes this with online and on-location workshops, an e-book, and personal coaching. Lynette is the owner of PreppingOnABudget.com and enjoys her rural lifestyle, with her husband and dog, in the deep south!

Vickilynn Haycraft

The hostess of the Get Real – Get Pre-pared radio show on PRN. She is the author of: Wrapping It Up! and co-author of Naturally Healthy Cuisine, Real Food for Real Families. Vickilynn is a sought-after independent prod-uct tester and book reviewer deliver-ing accurate, honest, and trustworthy reviews on products and books for the whole family. Subscribe to Vicki-lynn at: www.realfoodliving.com.

Jeff Rowland

Reverend Jeff Rowland is an Evangelist, Preacher, Author and Accomplished Songwriter. Jeff is from Chillhowie, VA,

Stanley and Kelly Gaddy

Stanley and Kelly Gaddy acquired Carolina Water Tank in 2008. Carolina Water Tanks continues to manufacture and provide quality water collection and storage systems. Stanley is an “Ac-credited Professional” with American Rainwater Catchment Systems Asso-ciation. As we become more involved with the prepping community, we strive to become more self-reliant and help others with their needs for water.

PREPARE MAGAZINEContributors

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and comes from a preaching and sing-ing family. He sang with his family until joining the US Army as a member of the 82nd Airborne. While in the military, Jeff surrendered into the ministry and was ordained in 1985. After leaving the Army, Jeff has served as a Pastor and Evangelist, and now travels full-time, extensively across the United States sharing the gospel of Jesus Christ and the message God has given him for these Last Days. For more from Jeff visit: JeffRowlandMinistry.com

Jason A. Hunt

Jason A. Hunt is the President of Fron-tier Christian University and founder of Trailblazer Ministries. He’s authored over a dozen reading titles including “Reasons for Seasons, Origins of the Christian Holidays” and “Walking the Narrow Path”. To learn more visit: http://www.tribulationsurvivalguide.net/

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