Prepare the Pattern and Fabric for Construction

Apparel I: Objective 4.02

Preparing Fabric for Sewing

STEP 1: Straighten Fabric Ends

To straighten WOVEN fabric◦Clip the selvage edge and either tear or

pull a crosswise thread (thread that runs from selvage to selvage) and cut along space left from pulled thread.

To straighten KNITTED fabric◦Use crosswise row of loops to baste

along (sew with a stitch length of 6) and cut along basting line

Preparing Fabric for Sewing

STEP 2: Preshrink Fabric

Zig zag or serge the raw ends of the fabric to prevent it from fraying when washed.

Launder the fabric just as you would the item you are going to make with the fabric. (Cleaning instructions are located on end of bolt when purchasing)

Dry the fabric just as you would the finished item.

Preparing Fabric for Sewing

STEP 3: Straighten Fabric Grain To straighten or re-align the fabric grains pull fabric along the BIAS to make warp and weft threads (grains) at 90 degree angles.

Bias: most stretchCrosswise: medium stretchLengthwise: least stretch

also strongestWarp: Threads that run lengthwise (up and down)Weft:Threads that run crosswise (from selvage to selvage or right to left)

Preparing Fabric for Sewing

STEP 4: Press Fabric

When you press fabric you need to make sure you can remove the center fold line. If you cannot remove the crease then it will remain in the garment and an alternate cutting layout will be necessary.

Preparing Fabric for SewingSTEP 5: Fold FabricFold your fabric according to your

pattern guide sheet.

Now that your fabric is ready, how do you get your pattern ready?

Pattern Preparation The pattern guide sheet will

show you which pattern pieces you will need and how to layout your pattern pieces on your fabric depending on:◦Width of fabric◦If the fabric has nap◦If the fabric is directional

Pattern Preparation Circle the pattern layout you will be using on

the guide sheetFind the pattern pieces you will be usingOn a multi-sized pattern, find your size and

trace the cutting line for your size with a marker.

Cut the pattern pieces out.Make adjustments where necessary.

◦Adjustments make pattern pieces longer, shorter, wider, or more narrow (REMEMBER if you change the front of a garment you must also change the back!).

◦Adjustments are made along adjustment lines.

Pattern Preparation

Iron the pattern pieces.Place the pattern pieces on your material EXACTLY like

the pattern layout shows you. ◦ When you layout your pattern pieces watch for place on fold

symbols◦ Make sure all pattern pieces are completely on the fabric◦ Make sure that pattern pieces are not touching or overlapping.◦ Make sure that the grain line on your pattern piece is in the

same direction as your lengthwise grains.