pro traveller magazine - issue 52

For the More Discerning Family Traveller

www.protraveller.co.uk Issue 52

In This Issue…

Searching forTarzan

A Drive in theTunisian Desert

GloriousGozo

Plus Trevor Claringbold takes a trip to anaward winning camp site for the 21st Century

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Pro Traveller Issue 52

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Checking In…

A few words from theEditor,Trevor Claringbold

No matter how many places you visit, if you’re a real travel enthusiast you’ll never losethat desire to keep discovering more.

Despite having around 70 countries under my belt, even I was looking through thediverse range of articles in this issue and thinking ‘I wish I’d taken that trip myself.’

But perhaps that’s the best thing about a good travel magazine; it inspires you to trynew things, and explore new places. More importantly, I think, it can give you ideasfor the kind of travel that you might find rewarding, but which you had never reallycontemplated before.

Sometimes it’s just a matter of casting off preconceptions. That was very much the casefor me, when I headed to Spain for a family camping holiday (see our Cypsela feature).I still had thoughts of those dreadful campsites of the 1970’s, with leaking tents andterrible sanitation. Yet here was a camp which could easily stand shoulder to shoulderwith some of Europe’s better hotel resorts.

Elsewhere we have an epic journey into the Sahara for Robin Nowacki, a wild and verypersonal African quest for our guest author, Andy Briggs, and Oonagh Duffy continuesher travels through the Alps, with stops in Austria and Switzerland.

Happy Travels! @TheTravelWriter

Pro Traveller Magazine2 Fremantle RoadFolkestoneKent, CT20 3PY, Uk

www.protraveller.co.uk

Editorial email: [email protected]

General Enquiries: [email protected]

Tel: 00 44 (0)1303 850801

EditorTrevor Claringbold

Assistant Editor and PhotographyNatalia Kolesnikova

Artwork and DesignKudosmediawww.kudosmedia.org

Editorial Integrity:Whilst some trips featured inthis publication are sponsoredby organisations or hotels in thedestination, those organisationshave no input into the editorialcontent, which is wholly anduniquely the impartial work ofour writers.

All material is CopyrightPro Traveller Magazine andKudosmedia 2014

This Issue’s Writing Team Includes…

ROBIN NOWACKIA regular contributorwith a vast experiencestretching back to histime with TV TravelShop.

MOLLYMILEHAM-CHAPPELLWriter and presenterMolly is always on thelook out for those funand exciting trips!

ANDY BRIGGSOur guest contributorfor this issue, authorAndy brings his loveof African adventureto our pages.

NATALIAKOLESNIKOVAOur award winning staffphotographer has akeen eye and a passionfor all kinds of travel.

OONAGH DUFFYOonagh’s warm writingstyle sets the perfecttone as she continuesher travels through thealps.



In This Issue…Page 8 - Culinary Castles

Page 16 - A Drive in the Desert

Page 19 - Molly Meets Mickey

Page 22 - Dropping In on Austrian Wellness

Page 30 - Cypsela - 21st Century Camping

Page 36 - Glorious Gozo

Page 43 - Searching for Tarzan

0 - It’s All About the Bears

Page 54 - Windsor - A Royal Retreat

Page 58 - A Genevan Mystery

Trevor Claringbold exploresthe culinary delights ofItaly’s Emilia Romagna

region, and washes it downwith a few local wines.

Disneyland Paris is somuch more than just a

glitzy theme park, asMolly Mileham-Chappell

soon discovers.

Family camping trips toEurope have come a long

way, since those early daysof leaking canvas and poor

facilities, as we find out.

Author Andy Briggs headsto some of the most remoteareas of Africa, in search of

his legendary hero, andtakes us along as well.

It’s been a favourite of theRoyal Family for centuries,

but you don’t need a title toenjoy all that this delightfulRoyal Borough has to offer.

Trevor Claringbold spends anunusual weekend in the Swisscity, solving the century-oldcase of a disappearinglecturer - and even has timeto enjoy the sights.

Bears may seem a strangesymbol for Switzerland’scapital city, but there’s avery good reason - asOonagh Duffy learns.

Malta is small, but it’s littlesister, Gozo, is positively tiny.Yet, as Natalia Kolesnikovashows, there is no shortageof things to do and see

The best Austrian wellnessresorts and hotels joinedforces twenty years ago tomaintain a first class offeringfor travellers, and just keepsgetting better.

Southern Tunisia is still hometo nomadic people living withthe same traditional valuesthat have survived for manycenturies. Robin Nowacki goesto meet them.

Plus Regular Features:

Page 14 - Travellers TitbitsNews in Brief

Page 26 - Get In Gear What Smart Travellers are TakingPage 48 - Travel Tech

The Latest Gadgets for your Trip


www.protraveller.co.uk8 www.protraveller.co.uk

Of course, if you’re having a jaunt through one of Italy’s mosthistoric regions, eating and sleeping in medieval castles, youexpect the odd ghost story or two. However, being told not tostand in the centre of the room, because that’s the trapdoorwhere prisoners were thrown to their deaths down the tower,was probably not on my list of expectations.

Neither was the cage hanging high on the outside of acathedral tower, where local villains were literally hung out todry.

But the bizarre award of the week has to go to the statue ofthe Virgin Mary, pierced by rows of daggers, and standingacross the room from a glass cabinet where assorted bodyparts from a long dead saint were displayed.

Before we really had time to take it in, Attila the Tour Guidehad flicked the switch, plunging us into an eerie darkness, andushered us on through the gloom to another gallery, where laya collection of medieval torture implements.

It was the last evening of a fascinating foray into the heartlandof northern Italy, and our private tour of the Rivalta Castle wasboth intriguing and bizarre. But don’t let the scary stuff put youoff. Modern day Italians are far more welcoming than theiraristocratic predecessors.

Just a axe throw from the castle gates were our food andaccommodation for the night. The Residenza Torre di SanMartino nestles in a cobbled courtyard that wouldn’t look outof place in a medieval movie. The individually styled bedroomsseem to reach out and hug you as you close the heavy oakdoor, and the adjacent restaurant was equally warm and

enticing. Of course, the meal was unbelievably good, givingthe taste buds a touch of luxury, and lubricated by somechoice local wine.

I say ‘of course’, because this is a region where food is king.In fact we’d been seduced by so much idyllic cuisine, I wasamazed the Italian women all looked to have such perfectfigures.

The previous evening was a shining example, when we joineda hundred or so other revellers in the majestic CastelloFontanellato. It’s an opportunity for the locals to get dressedup, gather in the courtyard under the illuminated towers, andsip a glass or three of Frizzante. We were then invited for atour of the upstairs galleries, which are home to art andantiques covering the four hundred years of the castles’history. No sooner had that finished, and with the air full ofanticipation, we took our places for the main event.

The Ricordanze di Sapori (‘Remembering Old Flavours’) is apopular culinary festival, and tonight we were to be spoiled bynot one, but three Michelin starred chefs. The buzzing localcommunity feel was further enhanced by the inclusion ofsome thirty school children as waiters and kitchen hands.

The food was absolutely amazing, and duly accompanied byspecially selected local wines for each course. The ambienceand majesty of the castle setting ensured it was a thoroughlydelightful evening.


…tonight we were to be spoiled by not one, but three Michelin starred chefs…


8

If, by now, you’re thinking that you’ll need to spend yourchildren’s inheritance to have a good time in this area (or evento eat well), well think again. Just around the corner fromPiacenza’s main square, is the Michelin starred Antica Osteriadel Teatro, where the three course set lunch with wine is sureto impress any self-respecting foodie. And it will only set youback a very reasonable €30.

Chef Filippo Chiappini Dattilo is not one to shout about hissuccess, but this quaint and comfy little restaurant is one thatthose in the know regularly frequent. Talk nicely to Filippo, andhe may even take you below stairs to visit his real passion – theimmaculate and well stocked wine cellar.

Nestling alongside the impressive range of bottles destined forthe restaurant, lie those of his own eclectic collection. He isjustifiably proud of the rarer examples, but when he mentioned


Situated on the Via Emilia, it may not be aslarge as Parma, but its history is every bit aslong and impressive. It was founded around175BC as a Roman settlement, and its strategicposition has maintained its importance andwealth over the centuries.

Occupying one whole side of a paved square isthe Valli Theatre, which has been the focalpoint of the city’s cultural life for a century anda half.

Facing it is a busy street lined with ornate,pastel coloured buildings, which hail from thedays of Reggio Emilia’s glorious past. Lines ofquality shops, & refined eating establishmentslead you to an older piazza, with a tall belltower at one end. In the centre is the Cathedral,which, like many in the region, was neverproperly finished. That doesn’t detract from itsbeauty however, as certainly on the inside it isa cornucopia of glorious frescos, carvings, andart works.

At the far end of the piazza is a building that isnow the Town Hall. It was here, in 1797, thatthe Italian tricolour flag was created, thuscementing the city’s place in its nation’s history.It’s worth a visit, not just to see the original flag,but also to muse over the design of the councilchamber.

The architect, it seems, had only designedtheatres before this commission... and it’s nothard to see he did little to change his style!

Founded in Roman times, Parma has alwaysremained important both strategically andpolitically. During the renaissance period thewealthy ruling Duchy of the Farnese familygreatly improved the centre, with impressivebuildings and grand squares. The FarneseTheatre still retains the grandeur of a bygoneera, and is a major attraction during theVerdi Festival.

In the remains of the Palazzo Pilotta (animmense square palace, now sadly partiallydestroyed by fire) masterpieces by Da Vinci,El Greco, and Correggio are amongst theexhibits of the National Gallery of Parma.

Parma is a bright, welcoming city, and thewide streets of orange and yellow buildingsgive it a warm feel even on the cloudiest ofdays. In a corner of the Piazza Garibaldi isthe magnificent Romanesque Cathedral, builtwith pink marble from Verona. The interior isa masterpiece of Gothic columns & classicalpaintings. Somewhat hidden until you areclose, is Correggio’s stunning painted domeIt’s an amazing piece of art, as well as alesson in optical illusion, creating extra layersand ledges that are not actually there. Takea few Euros with you, as it is only illuminatedby feeding the meter!

Elsewhere, there are plenty of chances tosample authentic local produce, including theParmigiano Reggiano cheeses, Parma Ham,Culatello di Zibello, Porcini Mushrooms, andthe area’s balsamic vinegars.

With its maze of historic streets, and stylisharchitecture, Piacenza is the classic gatewayto entice you into the Emilia Romagna region.

The highlight for many is undoubtedly thevast Palazzo Farnese, whose sprawling, lavishinterior is home to an extensive collection oftreasures and artefacts. In typically Italianstyle, its grandeur is not obvious from theoutside, in the same way as Versailles orNeuschwanstein. That’s often the case in thiscountry, where what’s on the inside countsfor much more.

The collection would take an article of its ownto cover, but the highlights include Botticelli’s15th Century circular masterpiece ‘Madonnaadoring the Child with Little St John’, which isin an equally awe inspiring original frame,carved and gold plated by Benedetto daMaiano. In the underground galleries lays anEtruscan mystery, in the shape of a sheep’sliver. The rare bronze model dates back over2000 years, and is covered with inscriptionsrelating to the religious beliefs of the day.

The grand piazzas of the old city centre givea spacious, elegant feel. The largest, PiazzaCavalli, is a popular gathering place for localsand tourists alike. It is dominated along oneside by the magnificent gothic styled ‘Gotico’,which has become the symbol of the city. ThePalazzo del Comune, to give it the correct title,is decorated with porticos and merlons thatindicate an undoubted influence from theneighbours in Lombardy.

Parma Reggio Emilia Piacenza

Parmigiano Reggiano cheese production in Baganzolino

the sky high values of some of the dust-covered gems, we allbecame far more cautious - not to mention nervous - as wewalked around!

The whole region has an air of quality about it. Take the streetperformers, for example. Unlike my hometown, where thebuskers seem to limit their repertoire to Oasis, Elvis, and TheBeatles, in the art cities along the Via Emilia you’re much morelikely to encounter Verdi being performed on a street corner. Tobe fair, the great composer did come from the area, and thereis an annual Verdi Festival in Parma. Last year was a milestone,as 2013 marked the 200th anniversary of his birth.

Earlier in the year is the Reggio Parma Festival, which is also ofnote, and steadily expanding as it’s popularity increases. Thecity literally springs to life with classical music, opera, dance,theatre, films, and most recently jazz. However, no visit to Parma and its surroundings would be

complete without paying homage to two of its most famousexports; Parma ham, and Parmesan cheese (or ParmigianoReggiano to be absolutely correct).

For the latter, head a few miles out of Parma itself, to anunassuming small industrial type building in nearby Baganzolino.

This is the Consorzio Produttori Latte, a communal dairy whichwas set up to serve the best farms in the region. They willhappily arrange tours to show exactly how the famous cheesesare produced. The flimsy white hats and overshoes that youneed to wear may not be the height of Milan fashion, but the


Castello di Agazzano

…you’re much more likely to encounter Verdi being performed on a street corner…


A short drive into the foothills of the Apennines, south ofPiacenza, lays the village of Agazzano.

The Scotti family, who are somewhat famous in these parts,built an imposing, turreted castle here way back in the 13thCentury, and they are still here.

Nowadays, the original quadrangle of the fortifications playshost to weddings and events, for those who like to do things instyle.

The later residential part of the complex now has a more subtleway of waylaying its visitors, as deep in the dungeons it nowhouses an exclusive winery. The limited production means thewine can only be purchased from the castle, or a few selectoutlets in the region. But they are worth seeking out.

Wine tastings can be arranged for small groups, and they willpour from de-labelled bottles of Milione Rosso, Ca’ del Barigello,and Rocca Barbera, to see if you can tell which is which. Let megive you a hint... look at the ‘MR’, ‘CB’, and ‘RB’ that arehelpfully marked on the bottom of the bottles!


jibes from your fellow travellers are a small price to pay forthe experience.

As you watch from the gallery, it takes three men to lift thenew cheeses into the giant nets. They are forced into woodenmoulds, which then float on water beds in another room.Finally you take your life in your hands, as you walk amidtowers of maturing cheeses, some of them many years old,and learn how those ruthless cheese-masters will reject anypoorly performing examples without mercy.

There are also ample places to witness the production ofParma ham. One of the best is undoubtedly at another castle,this time in the flat lowlands of the Po valley.

The Antica Corte Pallavicina once stood on the banks of thegreat river, until the river decided it preferred a differentcourse. Nowadays, just a small tributary flows past, and thecastle is currently the home of yet another Michelin starredchef – Massimo Spigaroli.

As you approach, there are hints as to the owner’s passion,since every spare bit of land seems to be planted with (orgrazed by) something that can be eaten.

Once inside, you carefully thread your way down the dimly lit,ancient stone steps to the castles dungeon, at which point theunmistakable aroma of ageing culatelli races up to confrontyou like a medieval guardsman.

Negotiate the low doorways, skirt around a eerie passageway,and you are in a dark mysterious world, with objects gentlybrushing you on the shoulder as you manoeuvre around. It

Castello Fontanellato

How to Cheat at Wine Tasting...

…thread your way down the dimly lit, stone steps of the castle dungeon…

12 www.protraveller.co.uk


takes a few moments for your eyes to adjust, and several more foryour sense of smell to catch up, and then you realise that you aresurrounded by hundreds and hundreds of hanging hams.

To the uninitiated they seemed to be randomly strung from everyavailable inch of ceiling and wall space. I was advised, however,that there is a very precise system, and that the markings on eachone help determine how far they are placed from the drying airwhich creeps into the tiny window.

Unbelievably, there are over 6000 in these vaults, and with valuesnudging the €200 mark, you can see why they slice it very, verythinly. As you exit, there is a short, but informative film, beforeyou get to try or buy for yourself.

The Antica Corte Pallavicina also has a small number of exclusiverooms in which you can stay. Personally, I loved them, although Iwould suggest taking a look; as features such as a bath in themiddle of the room may not be to everyone’s taste. They oozecharacter, though, and in the wider setting of the castle you canalmost feel yourself letting your long-suppressed eccentric sideloose on the world... albeit temporarily.

USEFUL CONTACTS

Tourist Information: www.travelemiliaromagna.com

Residenza Torre San Martino: www.torresanmartino.it

Antica Corte Pallavicina: www.anticacortepallavicinarelais.it

Matilda di Canossa Resort: www.matildedicanossaresort.com

Palazzo Farnese: www.musei.piacenza.it

Castello di Agazzano: www.castellodiagazzano.it

…a bath in the middle of the room may not be to everyone’s taste…



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An additional app alerts passengers astheir baggage approaches them on thecarousel, making it easier than ever forthem to find their bag.

It works globally with any mobile phoneor SMS enabled device, and can belinked to multiple phones.

For more informationVisit www.Trakdot.com

Air New Zealand unveils itsstunning Hobbit inspired 777

Air New Zealand, the official airline ofMiddle-Earth, has recently unveiled anamazing 777-300 aircraft which is set tobecome a flying billboard for the movieThe Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey.

The film is the first in a trilogy of filmsfrom Kiwi director Sir Peter Jackson.

Air New Zealand Chief Executive, RobFyfe, says the imagery, which extendsthe full length of the 73 metre longaircraft, is simply stunning. “This aircraftis going to excite passengers, as well asfans of Sir Peter Jackson’s multi-awardwinning cinema fantasies alike when itbegins its regular service with Air NewZealand.

www.airnewzealand.co.uk

Fancy Sleeping in a

Space Rocket?

Said to be modelled on a space rocket,the Mobilona Space Hotel is set to be thetallest hotel in Europe, at a genuinelyimpressive 300 meters high!

The complex will cost approximately 1.5billion euros, said developer ApogeeInvestors.

Suites and apartments will be availableat prices ranging from 495,000 to 2.6million euros. The penthouses will beeven more expensive, ranging from 3.9to a staggering 20 million euros!

One night at the Space Hotel will costbetween 300 and 1500 euros.

There are two further space-themedhotels being planned by Mobilona, onein Los Angeles and another in HongKong.

Information on the construction andpossible opening dates have not yetbeen decided, but it’s certain to make animpact!

TRAVELLERS TITBITS


It’s a bumpy ride to a campsite in the Saharafor Robin Nowacki, as he gets a taste of lifein southern Tunisia.

It’s just three hours to fly from Britain to Southern Tunisia, andyet you enter a world so different to 21st Century Europe thatyou might be forgiven for believing you had travelled back tothe times of Lawrence of Arabia.

It’s the North African equivalent of America’s old “Wild West”;a frontier territory onto the majestic Sahara Desert, where thenomadic peoples have only just stopped travelling. They still

possess the same beguiling skills as their forefathers as cameljockeys and horse riders, and carry on embracing a traditionalway of life that dates back countless generations.

It’s a vibrant tapestry of tradition is as richly woven as theflowing garments covering all but the face, which are worn byeveryone here. It’s clothing that is vital to keep out both theconstantly shifting Saharan sands, and shield from the bakingsun overhead by day, as well as protecting from deep chill ofthe desert by night.

At the southern Tunisian oasis town of Douz, known as “TheGateway to the Sahara”, due to it being the last outpost beforethousands of miles of open desert, these traditions are ondisplay at the spectacular Sahara Festival that is held eachyear just after Christmas.

Here you’ll find elaborate and dazzling parades, daring horseand camel races, and mock fights - displayed by a peopleseemingly born in the saddle.

They are skills that would be familiar to the likes of Lawrenceof Arabia, who was no stranger to fighting on camel back, ina desert a thousand miles to the east, at time of the FirstWorld War.

…if Lawrence of Arabia could have chosen a Toyota Land Cruiser over his camel, he would have done…

A Drive in the Desert


Not your typical campsite!

The ‘Ships of the Desert’, as camels were regularly referred to,remained the fastest and most effective way to move aroundthese vast wildernesses until the development of the modern4 x 4 motor vehicles.

Now off-road vehicles come in many shapes and sizes, butbased on my observations over many days in the Sahara,together with several weeks previous experience on Uganda’sroughest roads, the king of the genre has to be the ToyotaLand Cruiser.

In fact I am sure if Lawrence of Arabia could have chosen oneof these seemingly unstoppable vehicles over his camel - hewould have done.

It was aboard one such Toyota with two colleagues and ourdriver- the magic Majid, nicknamed thus due to the way hemanaged time and time again to make his Land Cruiser do theseemingly impossible - that I travelled over 100 kilometresfrom Douz into the Sahara.

What passed as something resembling a road soon gave wayto open desert and we found ourselves climbing up and downthe sides of the larger sand dunes – whilst when it came tothe smaller ones – simply going over the tops and down theother side – like a boat in a rough sea – it was the bumpiestcar ride of my life.

The fact that we survived several hours of this each daytestified to the strength of these vehicles, and surprised myselfand the other passengers with just how much punishment wecould also take.

We were heading to the Saharan tented village of Camp Mars,at a place called Timbaine. This was real camping in theSahara, sleeping under canvas, with no running water andonly candles and torches for light once the sun set over thered sand dunes.

We truly were in the middle of nowhere, and it wasn’t longbefore we were suffering the withdrawal symptoms frommodern life. Not only was there no social media contact orinternet connection – but not even any phone signal.

…we were totally cut off from the outside world, something most travellers would have experienced a few decades ago…

Below : Travelling over 100km from Douz into the Sahara by 4 x 4.Bottom : Tunisian cuisine is some of the best I’ve encountered.Bottom Right : The nomadic peoples of the Sahara.

Above : Traditional music around a warming camp fire.Below : Southern Tunisia still embraces a traditional way of life.

Pro Traveller Feature Article


USEFUL INFORMATION

Tunisair fly from London Heathrow to Tunis – Carthage severaltimes a week.

Internal flights to Tozeur, on the edge of the Sahara, take just40 minutes. Majid’s company, Nomades, operates from here.Tel: (76) 453.432.

Douz is a further two hours drive across Chott el Djerid - alarge endothecia salt lake. The El Mouradi Hotel is a recom-mended, civilized refuge from the heat and dust of the Sahara.

Throughout Tunisia hotel accommodation, and eating out isvery good value. The cuisine is some of the best I haveencountered, even rivaling many in Southern Europe.

For more information - the Tunisian National Tourist Office ison 020 7224 5561, or visit - www.cometotunisia.co.uk

We were totally cut off from the outside world. It’s somethingmost travellers would have experienced on a regular basisonly a few decades ago, but now in our Global Village of aWorld, thanks to satellite technology, it’s an increasingly rareevent.

However at Camp Mars we were not to go hungry or thirsty.In the large mess tent that night we were to experience thetrue generosity of the traditional Tunisian hospitality. Therewas wonderful spiced lamb with couscous, enriched by olivesand cooked in large clay pots cracked open by swords. It waswashed down with some fine Tunisian wines - a legacy of theformer French colonial period - with the reds particularlypleasing.

Later, outside under the clear starry Saharan Desert sky, wegathered together forming a circle around a blazing log fire. Itwas the perfect way to keep warm, and listen to traditionalSaharan music and song.

That night, as we lay in our camp beds under richly wovenwoollen blankets, candles flickering, a high wind whippedacross the Sahara shaking and pushing at the tents. It was allpart of the authentic desert experience, though, and yetanother tale to tell.

Above : Douz is around two hours across the Chott el Djerid.Left : Cooking the same way as they have for generations.

Pro Traveller


the Resort caters for all ages and interests. It manages toperfectly combine action with romance, enhanced in no smallway by the unforgettable animated characters coming to life…quite literally.

For younger members of the party, the ‘Things-To-Do’ list isendless. Character greetings take place throughout the day inboth the Disneyland Park and the Walt Disney Studios Park,which creates an illusion of Hollywood. These can easily beincorporated into your visit, as you struggle to decide what toride first.

Choosing between Dumbo the Flying Elephant and “It’s a SmallWorld” boat trip may well be the hardest decision you ever needto make… apart, that is, from deciding which of the manyrestaurants to eat at!

The Fastpass service goes a long way to relieving the stress,however, allowing you to plan your day down to the last minute.Using your park ticket, you receive time slots throughout theday to attend the popular attractions that ordinarily havequeues that last a lifetime. The machines are simple and easyto use, but there is always help available from the enthusiasticemployees (known as Cast Members) should you struggle.

For larger attractions such as the Rock’n’Roller Coaster, BigThunder Mountain Railroad and Space Mountain, Fastpassproves very useful. Attractions such as these are a must forthrill-seekers! Equally, the: Tower of Terror in the Walt DisneyStudios Park is brilliant - even if you ride it more than once - as


Junior Reporter Molly Mileham-Chappellvisits the Magic Kingdom, and explainshow to make the most of a trip to the

‘Place Where Dreams Come True’

Blinded by colour and surrounded by laughter, my excitement builds as Main StreetUSA fills gradually with familiar faces from my childhood. Eventhe shop façades seem to beam with happiness.

Mickey Mouse greets me personally, inviting me to “Celebratethe Magic” on parade. This is entertainment at its very best.

It’s true to say that I can’t remember a single point in my lifewhere Disney hasn’t been involved in some way, shape or form.As a child, I was brought up religiously watching re-runs of“Cinderella” and “Pinocchio”. My parents also (wisely) felt itimperative that I was introduced to the Walt Disney ThemeParks, to fuel my creativity and positive outlook on life!

In my short lifetime, I have visited Disneyland Paris four timeswith family and friends. From my home in Kent, these visitshave been made with ease due to the convenient advancementsin transport to France, via ferry, Eurostar or Eurotunnel.

My personal preference is Eurostar, with at least three trains aday from Ashford International Station; it’s a relaxed andpleasant experience. In less than 2 hours Sleeping Beauty’sCastle is almost close enough to touch.

There’s a surge of energy that ripples down the carriages as theiconic turrets become visible, with passengers racing to beat thequeues as soon as they get off. The speed and efficiency of theservice is flawless and the train time flies when you know you’reabout to have fun in the land “Where Dreams Come True”.

Unsurprisingly, I always discover something fresh and vibrantabout the parks each time I visit - probably due to the fact that

…the vertical drops are random, so it’s never the same ride twice…


Disneyland Paris

experience, Disneyland Paris can be fantastic around Hallow-een and Christmas, with extravagant decorations and longerpark opening hours.

Disneyland Paris is an unmissable once in a lifetime experienceand you will share the memories with friends and familyforever.

On my most recent visit, I stayed in the centre of Paris for thefirst time. Having previously had the luxury of rolling out of bedinto a showing of “Moteurs, Stunts, Action!”, I had originallyassumed that staying outside of the Disney area would be aninconvenience. However, I was pleasantly surprised.

The commute from Gare-Du-Nord station on the RER Metrotrain for the duration of our trip provided us with the best ofboth worlds; we were able to experience fully the wonders ofthe “City of Love”, as well as receive an adrenalin rush fromthe theme parks.

If your trip lasts long enough, a visit to Paris is thoroughlyworthwhile, but that’s a story for another day!

the vertical drops are random each time; so it’s never the sameride twice!

In many cases, the quality of sleep, and of course all thosefairytale dreams, you have on a short getaway can make orbreak a trip. That doesn’t need to be a concern with DisneyHotels ranging from three star to five star luxury. The hotels arelocated directly next to the main shopping district of the DisneyVillage, providing all the merchandise you could ever dream of,and world-famous restaurants such as Rainforest Cafe andPlanet Hollywood.

To add to the magic, each hotel has a different theme to suityour family’s personality; for example, the Hotel New York hasa bustling city theme running through it so you can continueyour Disney adventures in style, whereas the Newport Bay Clubhotel is peaceful with a nautical concept, making it the perfectlocation to wind down after a busy day in the parks.

Alternatively, The Disneyland Hotel places you directly in theheart of the magic. It overlooks the Disneyland Park, meaningyou can experience the “Disney Dreams” firework spectacularthat travels through classic Disney stories projected onto theCastle at night-time - from the comfort of your own room. Thenostalgia is overwhelming.

With regards to the best time of year to visit, it comes down topersonal choice. Ignoring the obvious weather considerations,there is no time of the year where Disneyland Paris fails toexceed expectations. If you are looking for a quieter, relativelycheaper visit, avoid school holidays and especially the Frenchnational holidays. However, if you are not objected to this busier


…rolling out of bed into a showing of ‘Moteurs, Stunts, Action…


www.protraveller.co.uk15

Pro Traveller Summer 2012

The drive through lush, grassy hills, lavish emerald green treesand majestic silvery mountains, on the ride from Munich to theAustrian Tyrol, was reminiscent of something from a glorious film.

The opulent scenery, embellished with unpolluted nature is arare sight to see in most modern cities that have sadly becomeconcrete jungles. The pure alpine air is crisp, and the coniferouswoodland is serenaded by the singing of birds and the mooingof cows.

Local houses in the heart of the Alps are cleverly designed tocombine typical 1920’s Tyrolean country style architecture, withmodern twists which compliment their picturesque surroundingsand natural elements of the area.

The Austrian Tyrol, famous for its ski resorts, cuisine and idylliclifestyle, is home to some of the best wellness hotels. It’s nowonder, considering the perfect location and superbly tranquilatmosphere that creates a calming and relaxing ambiance for allguests.

The hotels that belong to the ‘Best Wellness’ association arecelebrating their 20th anniversary this year, which gives aninsight to how popular spa and fitness hotels have become. Sopopular, that there are guests who have been holidaying in someof the hotels for more than 10 years.

The ‘Best Wellness’ group was established by four members,including Hotel Schwarz owner, Franz Pirktl, who was presidentof the group until 2006. To be included within the group, hotelsmust abide by strict rules including the size of the hotel, thenumber of rooms, the price, and a high standard of quality infacilities and design.

And it’s not hard to see why the Hotel Schwarz is one of the frontrunners in the ‘Best Wellness’ group, not only because of itsmany well deserved awards, but because of its perfect location,design, facilities and the friendly, dedicated staff.

Situated in the pretty resort of Mieming, and once a family farmbefore being renovated into a spa resort, the Hotel Schwarz is

surrounded by snow capped mountains which act as a stunningbackdrop to the fresh greenery of the 18-hole golf course. Fromthe moment you arrive, the warm, welcoming feel you get fromthe staff emphasises the family run atmosphere. Mr Pirktlhimself also has a strong presence within the hotel, makingevery guest feel at home with his friendly smile and good senseof humour.

The design of the Hotel Schwarz is a blend of modern andtraditional Tyrolean charm, demonstrating the attention to detailand quality of both the interiors and exteriors that the resort hasto offer.

There are many different styles of rooms and suites. I had thepleasure of staying in the ‘Landgarten’ suite, which certainlystood out in both layout and design. With picturesque balconyviews overlooking the tempting outdoor swimming pool, a


Oonagh Duffy heads to theTyrol, to celebrate 20 yearsof Austria’s ‘Best Wellness’

…at night a ceiling of tiny glimmering stars are magically uncovered…


deluxe bathroom featuring a flat screen TV built into the mirror,and a bath with a window looking out into the bedroom, thiswas no standard room. The large, sumptuous double bed wasextremely comfortable, and at night a ceiling of tiny glimmeringstars are magically uncovered. It’s a truly relaxing sight beforeslipping off into a peaceful alpine slumber.

The hotel offers many luxurious options, including a stay in theirexclusive Big Mountain suite with its rotating circular bed, sauna,and two roof top Jacuzzi's.

If your worried that it’s all about relaxation, fear not, there is adaily programme of activities included in the cost of your stay.The activity leaders are based at the hotel, and the activities onoffer depend on the season, of course. Typically they caninclude things like skiing, Nordic walking, yoga, biking, tennis,horse riding and hiking in the nearby mountains.

The hotel is perfect for families, as children and adults canchoose to do activities together or separately. With over 200staff, the hotel offers a thriving kids club and all day baby sittingservice.

Other facilities on offer include a gym, indoor and outdoorswimming pools, several different treatment rooms, saunas,and even a cosmetic surgery with fully qualified plastic surgeon.

If that wasn’t enough, the hotel has future plans to build achildren’s water park, complete with several exciting water slides.

Within the hotel grounds, there is a mini petting zoo with goats,llamas and donkeys for children and adults to enjoy. The resortis also surrounded by bucolic woods that are home to 240 cows,well looked after by the staff, and which pay homage to itstraditional roots as the family farm.

On the second day of my stay, Mr Pirktl took me on a bumpyride on the back of his tractor up to one of the mountain huts,to see the panoramic views over the golf course. Along the way,I was greeted by his friendly cows, and astounded by thebreathtaking scenery. Once we reached the mountain hut, Ienjoyed a very healthy lunch of fresh radishes, local cheesesand plenty of bread.

With a belly full of local specialities, we then made our way toanother hut further up the mountain, through the rolling velvethills, where a barbecue of enormous Austrian sausages wasbeing cooked for hotel guests. An accordion player entertainedus with perfect local alpine music, as families rode up the hillson gentle, accommodating ponies.

After enjoying the abundance of local food, and embarrassingmyself with my shocking golf skills, I thought it was time to headto the spa area, and test the hotels renowned spa treatment -the ‘Alpienne Vital Massage’. This was my first time having amassage, and I neither knew what to expect, nor the etiquetteof the spa realm. However, I didn’t need to worry, as mymasseuse made me feel very comfortable, and explained theprocess of the 50 minute full body massage whilst talking me


With a belly full of local specialities, we then made our way to another mountain hut further up the mountain…


through the ingredients of the three carefully selected local oilsthat would help unwind my tense muscles.

The massage felt beautiful, and I found myself gently fallingasleep. I was in a state of complete relaxation. I didn’t want themassage to end, but once it did I could feel the difference of themuscles in my shoulders and back which were significantlylooser than before. After my treatment I was encouraged to restin one of the relaxation rooms, some of which include waterbeds.

If you’re looking for an authentic stay in Austria, where adultscan be at harmony with nature, submerged in total tranquility,and where children can experience fresh outdoor activities instunning surroundings, then I definitely recommend the HotelSchwarz. Without doubt, a great all round resort for all thefamily.

Useful Information and Contacts

* The nearest airport to the hotel is Innsbruck, which is only a30 minute drive. You can also fly into Munich but a hired carmay be needed, for the very scenic 2 hour journey to the hotel.

* Direct summer flights are available twice weekly withwww.easyJet.com from Gatwick to Innsbruck airport.

* Resort transfers are available from www.transfer.tirol.at

* For information on the Hotel Schwarz visit: www.schwarz.at

AUSTRIANTYROL




GET IN GEARWhat the smart travellersare wearing and using…

Modern teenagers like to have everything ……………………their own way, and that includes getting the most fashionableitems for their holidays.

The new Travel Kool range, by TrendyKid, is an uber-stylishluggage choice, designed with tweens and teens in mind. Itoffers a stylish alternative that's perfect for holidays, schooltrips and sleepovers.

and are the designs appealing to fashion consciousolder children, who want to look cool even with a suitcase intow.

We put the cases to the test, with our regular junior reporterPolina taking them on trips to Spain, France and Switzerland. Asa style-concious 13-year old, Polina was genuinely keen to usethe case, and ‘cool’ was definitely the byword of the week.

In practical terms the cases are sturdy ABS, whilst still verylightweight, well balanced when being pulled along, and theseperated storage areas have a surprising amount of room.

They measure 17", meaning they fit carry on regulations, andhave a polyester lining with a dividing pocket, zip compartmentand garment straps. Easy roll, colour coordinated wheels andan adjustable handle make it a doddle to pull and manoeuvre.

Travel Kool by TrendyKid are available from John Lewis retailstores, or visit www.trendykid.co.uk

Let’s face it, if you’re going to be using a large and prettyserious backpack, the chances are you’re going to be usingit in circumstances that are likely to need a decent amountof weatherproofing. That could be to protect it from rain,snow, dirt, water, or even sand.

That generally means going for a backpack that has a lot ofprotection, and therefore weight a lot - making it evenharder on your back once you’ve loaded it for your trip.

Overboard’s new waterproof backpack is described as ‘Ultra-Light’, and for a huge 50-litre bag it is indeed amazingly light,weighing in at just 1.34 kg.

So does the light weight mean it lacks features? Absolutelynot. We tested the pack on two fairly arduous trips, in some

Fashion Friendly Kids Cases

Excellent New Waterproof Backpack




Every so often a new item lands on the Pro Traveller deskthat is so neat and simple that we wonder why we havenever hd one before. The new Solar Lantern S2 is certainlyone such product.

It’s one of four solar lamps that are being offered by theinnovative Solar Aid, and it’s not just you that will benefitfrom buying one. Every Solar Light sold will help themfund getting millions more of them to needy familiesacross Africa. They hope to eradicate the dangerous andflammable kerosene lamps by 2020, which in a land wheresunshine is far more plentiful than electricity is a greatidea.

The four lamps in the range can provide up to 36 hours oflight from a full charge, and the larger ones can evencharge your mobile phone too!

The clever design means they can be stood up, hung up,or carried using the handle. We also found that it wasquite simple to attach them to a chest strap of a backpack,and angle them to light the path in front of you - leavingboth hands completely free.

They are tough, versatile, and environmentally friendly.Thoroughly recommended

www.solar-aid.org

Let’s face it, if you’re going to be using a large and prettyserious backpack, the chances are you’re going to be usingit in circumstances that are likely to need a decent amountof weatherproofing. That could be to protect it from rain,snow, dirt, water, or even sand.

That generally means going for a backpack that has a lot ofprotection, and therefore weight a lot - making it evenharder on your back once you’ve loaded it for your trip.

Overboard’s new waterproof backpack is described as ‘Ul-tra-Light’, and for a huge 50-litre bag it is indeed amazinglylight, weighing in at just 1.34 kg.

So does the light weight mean it lacks features? Absolutelynot. We tested the pack on two fairly arduous trips, in somevery wet and muddy conditions, and were very impressedwith its capabilities.

At 60cm tall, the backpack has fully adjustable back andwaist straps, a large external mesh pocket, and anotheruseful large mesh pocket on the side. There are also vecrohiking pole fasteners, and some neat elasticated webbing

TOPTIP THIS IS NO

ORDINARYLITTLE LIGHT

If you’ve ever driven around the coast from the south of Franceinto northern Spain, you’ll know what a sudden and dramaticchange it is – particularly in the height of summer.

Gone are the seemingly endless traffic queues of the Frenchholiday period, the vast wetland areas and lakes, and theflatlands and sand dunes that stretch for as far as the eye cansee.

Cross the Mediterranean end of the Pyrenees and it’s not justthe language that changes. Warm yellow rocks surround rugged,picturesque bays, winding country roads are pleasant andpeaceful, and gloriously scented pine forests lead down tosteeply sloping sandy beaches.

Welcome to the Costa Brava.

Of course, this region has long been a favourite of British visitors.It was one of the first regions to succumb to the mass influx ofthe package tours back in the Sixties, but now there is a whole

CYPSELAA 21st Century CampingTrip to the Costa Brava

Can a Spanish Campsitereally be described as 5-Star?Trevor Claringbold takesthe family to find out…



new breed of traveller discovering its charms... and a completelydifferent way for families to enjoy it.

Twenty-first century campsites are a world away from the roughfields, poor sanitation, leaky tents and caravans of days gone by.Many today are more akin to complete resorts, with modernfacilities, top class entertainment, and a wide choice of clean,spacious, self catering accommodation.

This was our first trip with Canvas Holidays, staying at a sitecalled Cypsela around 25 miles east of Girona. First impressionswere very good, with a swift, efficient check in, and a friendlywelcome from the Canvas Holidays staff that showed us to ouraccommodation.

Cypsela is a large, five-star site, yet never felt overcrowded ornoisy. The broad avenues meander through a forest of pinetrees – many of them over 100 years old. This creates agloriously natural feel, not to mention a delightfully fresh aromato accompany breakfast on your private veranda.

We opted for one of the Select 3-bedroom mobile homes, whichwas ideal. Inside it’s well equipped, with a fully fitted kitchen,air conditioning, and plenty of room in the lounge area. Thebedrooms are a little tight for space, but with such a charmingresort, you’re never likely to be spending lots of time there!Everything worked as it should, everything was clean, and thewhole ambience was just right.

Outside you have a wide decking area, with table and chairsnestling under the dappled cover of the pine canopy. There isalso an easy to use gas barbecue, and ample space to park yourcar off the road.

If you can tear yourself away, there are, of course, plenty ofother attractions within the resort. First stop for most people isthe huge pool area. With a 500 metre square main pool, asmaller paddling pool for the younger visitors, diving boards,and spectacular new four-lane water slide, there is plenty tooccupy the whole family. There are ample sun-beds, even at

busy times, an ice cream kiosk, children’s play area, and a largegarden area with volleyball and table-tennis tables.

And this is just one area. On the other side of the resort isanother large sports complex, which includes boules, basketball,and even a football pitch.



Everything at Cypsela has a feeling of quality, from the food inthe restaurant, to the evening entertainment.

As someone who travels regularly, and especially with a family,it was also particularly encouraging to get a sense that everyvisitor was genuinely a valued guest, and not just anothercustomer. Nothing seemed too much trouble for any member ofstaff, either site staff or the dedicated Canvas team.

Even the prices on site were no more expensive than what you’dexpect to pay outside. Indeed we actually checked some of theon-site supermarket prices against those in the nearby town,and found the Cypsela ones to be cheaper. Now that’s awelcome surprise!

If you’re heading out, there is a free shuttle bus to the beautifulsandy nearby beach, which takes just five minutes. Clear blueseas awaits, with immaculate, pale sand for as far as the eyecan see. In the height of the summer holidays, there was alwaysplenty of space, whichever direction you chose.

For the more adventurous, there is a full programme of trips andactivities available from Cypsela, including boat trips, scubadiving, kayaking, paddle surfing, and snorkelling. There is asmall town just ten minutes walk along the road, with a rangeof shops and restaurants, or the main town of Pals, is about aten minute drive.

Further afield, trips to Girona, Barcelona, or even up into thePyrenees are also popular, but it was the small town of Pals itselfthat took us by surprise.

After a strenuous afternoon relaxing on the beach, we plannedto take a cursory look at the nearby town before heading back

for dinner. Parking in the small car park on the edge of town,we treated ourselves to ice creams and began to wander up thewinding, narrow street.

We were totally unprepared for what turned out to be one of themost charming Spanish hilltop towns I’ve ever had the pleasureto explore. And explore is what you need to do, because everytwisting, turning little street has a different delight to witness.

…it was the small town of Pals itself that took us by surprise…


Above: The glorious beach near the Cypsela campsite.

Right: Narrow winding streets in the hilltop town of Pals


Both the castle and the church date back to the 9th Century, andthe towers, walls, and fortified houses followed over the nextfew hundred years. Crossing the medieval square, under Gothicstone arches, and climbing the steep cobbled road leads you upto several panoramic viewpoints.

With the sun beginning to set, it is the ideal place to survey theglorious countryside of the region. In the distance the coastlineglistens, and the Medes Islands break the horizon.

As we head back for our last night at Cypsela, and relax overdinner under the stars, it makes the whole family even moredetermined that this will definitely be a place we’ll return to.

Canvas Holidays will be celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2015 and has anillustrious history of offering high quality camping holidays at over ninetyhandpicked campsites across ten European countries including France, Spain,Holland and Germany.

Canvas Holidays provides self-catering accommodation to suit all budgets,offering flexibility on dates, duration and travel arrangements. Guests canchoose to stay in any of a range of accommodations from a spacious Maxi Tentor a popular mobile home to a spacious lodge and luxurious Safari Tent Deluxe.

For more information on Canvas Holidays or to book, visitwww.canvasholidays.co.uk or call 0345 268 0827.

COSTABRAVA

Polina’s View

A Teenager’sTake on the Trip

I didn’t like the long drive much, but once we were here thiswas one of the best holidays I’ve been on.

The campsite was awesome, especially the pool and thewater slide. We played the minigolf course at night whichwas really cool, (although I wasn’t very good at first!).

It’s hard to explain why, but I just really liked everythinghere, and the beach was also amazing… I didn’t want toleave. I really want to come back again! Photos: Views in and around the town of Pals


French during the Napoleonic wars, and by the 18th CenturyGirona had been besieged no less than 21 times.

Yet it’s this bizarre mixture that makes it such a delight toexplore. The lower streets have all manner of small independentshops to delve into, and the wider Rambla Libertat is lined withpavement cafes, and a vibrant, cosmopolitan feel.

Climb the narrow alleyways, and stone stairways, and you’lldiscover a world that has changed little over the centuries. Theundoubted centrepiece is the dramatic gothic Cathedral, with itsmagnificent facade, and mighty flight of seventeenth centurysteps that provide a superb view across the city from the top.Inside the nave has the largest single span of any in the world,at a staggering 22 metres, giving an immense sense of space.

The old city is not huge, and you can easily meander aroundalmost every street in an hour. It’s worth taking your time,however, and admiring the details, the many different styles,and just trying to imagine what it was like for those who walkedthese very streets as far back as the Roman times.

As you head back down to the river, take a moment to admirethe multi-coloured buildings that struggle to maximise everyinch of space by extending out over the water.

Girona is a delightful place to visit, either if you’re staying on theCosta Brava, or indeed in its own right. After all, it does have avery convenient airport!

For me, Girona has always been an airport. For longer than Icare to remember I’ve seen it on plane tickets, itineraries, andairport departure boards. Until now, I’ve never really givenmuch thought to the city that gave the airport its name. So,being so close, a chance to redress that was most welcome.

The modern city lies predominantly on the west bank of the RioOnyar, but for most visitors it’s the historic old town that’s theprime focus. Enclosed by high city walls, the labyrinth of narrowstreets rise steeply from the east bank, and are crowned by arange of impressive buildings that act as a mirror to Girona’shistory.

That history stretches back to pre-Roman times, and the moreyou wander, and take note of the eclectic mix of architecturalstyles, the more it becomes apparent that this is a city with moreinfluences than most!

As the Roman city of Gerunda, it was a vital fortress on the ViaAugusta. Following the Moorish invasion it became an Arab townfor over two centuries, and plenty of Arabic reminders are stillvisible, along with evidence of a six hundred year long Jewishpresence. More recently, it was attacked several times by the


Main Photo: The colourful Rio Onyar waterfront of Girona.Above: Street cafes line the cosmopolitan Rambla Liberta

Below Left: The ornate facade of Girona’s cathedral.

Article: Trevor Claringbold Photos: Natalia Kolesnikova


www.protraveller.co.uk 27

Pro Traveller Summer 2012


GOZO

As the chilly autumn winds begin to appear in Britain, it’s a greatfeeling to be heading south to the Mediterranean, wheresummer doesn’t rush to leave for another month or two. Thecold, grey waters of the English Channel slip behind the clouds,and then, just a couple of hours later, those same clouds partagain like a magicians trick, to reveal the azure waters ofTyrrhenian Sea.

After crossing Sicily, small islands begin to appear; dry andbarren, with sparse greenery but plenty of cultivation. Smallrectangular roofs are beautifully interlaced with clear, sparklingturquoise swimming pools in almost every yard, like a giantstone coffee table dappled with blue topaz incrustations.

There’s no airport on Gozo, so we land in neighbouring Malta tomeet our local guide, Maria. Our driver is nimble and swift,taking us quickly through the afternoon rush hour of Valetta,along a succession of hot, busy streets and small villages to theport. The well-known saying that “The Maltese don’t drive onthe right or the left, they drive in the shade”, certainly appearedtrue here!

The thirty minute crossing between Malta and Gozo offers abeautiful seascape, with wonderful views of Malta, Gozo, andtheir smallest sister Comino in between. Comino is tiny (just 1.4square miles) and permanently inhabited by only two farmerswho’ve been living there all their life. They refuse to leave theisland, even with a danger of becoming ill, and sadly they aren’tmarried they have no heirs.

Despite the fact that it’s only atiny island nestling in the vastwaters of the Mediterranean,and over-shadowed by its ‘bigsister’ Malta, Gozo hides amultitude of surprises... AsNatalia Claringbold discovers.

…the Maltese don’t drive on the left or the right - they drive in the shade…


Despite its small size, Comino is a popular tourist destination,where wooden boats bring visitors for day trips, often spendingtime in the Blue Laguna, and enjoying the shallow warm watershidden from the sea by the wall of low rocks. A visit to the mostvisible building on the island is also popular. St Mary's Tower wasbuilt in the 15th century, and served at different times as adefensive structure, prison, and even the stage for filming ‘TheCount of Monte Cristo’.

The Maltese islands are really a place where North, South, Eastand West all meet. For centuries they’ve found themselves in theway of nations from all sides en route to invade others across thesea. Each have left their own trace in the Maltese landscape - andin the language, Malti, which consists of around 60% Arabic, aswell as Italian, Sicilian, French, and English. Some think that Maltiderived from the ancient Phoenicians who arrived in Malta in 750B.C. The names of places and numbers are the main examples ofan Arabic influence on the language.

The proximity of the vast, hot African continent is felt from thefirst moments you step out of the plane. The hot humid air, evenin the middle of October, the dry half-desert landscape with rarepalms, and the widespread paddle cactuses with their yellowprickly pear fruits, all have that African feel.

Local architecture is quite unique, but also carries a North Africaninfluence. The glorious sunny sky, half misty from the humidity,is hard to avoid, with little shade away from stone buildings.

The islands are like a perfume, with senses of Europe, Africa andthe Middle East mixed in one exotic bottle. It’s a scent that feelssafe and secure, as if you are in the quietest place in theMediterranean, but at the same time it’s intriguing with theunique architecture, cuisine and lifestyle.

Gozo hides a lot of mysteries, both historical and mythological.In the centre of the island is one of the oldest free standingstructures on the planet. The prehistoric megalithic GgantijaTemples are estimated to be 5800 years old – far older than theGreat Pyramids of Egypt or Stonehenge. They are possibly thesite of a fertility cult, and certainly the shape of the structures arereminiscent of a woman’s shapely curves.

Gozo is also the island where, according to Greek mythology,Homer’s Odyssey was kept by the nymph Calypso for seven yearsas a prisoner of love. It’s still possible to see the Calypso cave,although it’s no longer permitted to go inside.

In the Xwejni area numerous ancient salt pans are carved inthe coastal rocks. Close by, and looking almost as ancient, is afriendly salt seller in his authentic cave-shop. It’s a perfectopportunity to bring home a little Gozitan sea and sun in a littlesack of local sea salt.

The clear waters and unspoiled bays full of colourful marine lifemean that Gozo is a paradise for snorkelers and divers.. Thereare beautiful yellow sand beaches, such as Ramla Bay, whichlooks so bright against the turquoise and blue sea and skybackdrop, that it’s hard to resist the inviting warm waters ona hot sunny day.

And the beauty of this island is that its size means you can walkjust about everywhere, and reach everything by foot. Indeedexploring in this way is the best way to experience all that Gozohas to offer, and soak up all those memorable details that areoften missed when travelling in a car or on a bus.


Left: Ancient remains at the megalithic Ggantija Temples. Right: The beautiful yellow sands and clear waters of Ramla Bay.

The ancient salt-pans near Xwejni, and (below) the salt seller

…certainly the shape of the structures arereminiscent of a woman’s shapely curves…


Victoria (once called Rabat), is both the heart and the capital ofthe island. With a population of less than 7000, it has a veryrelaxed atmosphere. The main historical centre is the Citadel,with its narrow medieval streets of yellow stone.

Perhaps surprisingly for such a small population, there are twomagnificent cathedrals. St George’s Basilica, and the Cathedralon the citadel’s site which is dedicated to the Assumption. Thelatter stands on the same spot where once stood a magnificentRoman Temple.

There’s also no shortage of good museums in Victoria, with theGozo Museum of Archaeology, a Folklore Museum, the OldPrison, Natural History Museums and a variety of others to keepthe ardent history buff occupied.

After the hard work of climbing the steep hill to see the citadel,take your time and reward yourself with a visit to one of thequaint little restaurants. My choice was the rather special Ta’Rikardy, just inside the bastion walls, offering a selection of localfood and wines from its own vineyards. I’ll let you in to a littlesecret: once you’re there, head up the narrow spiral stairs andtake a table on the roof-top terrace – you won’t regret it. Thepanoramic scenery, like the cuisine, is amazing!

The colourful markets, and myriad of little shops are like minimuseums of the local life. The traditional local jewellery, somesimilar to filigree, is exquisite. Enticing food shops and tastydelicatessens are delightful, and it’s worth seeking out one ofthe Gozitan sweet treats to bring home for your loved one (andanother for yourself!). Try a mouthwatering honey ring(qaqqatal-ghasel), which is made of flour, treacle, semolina,cloves and spices.

The hard working Gozitans have spent thousands of yearsmaking the fertile clay workable, by transforming the rocky


MALTA& GOZO

The honey-coloured limestone buildings of the church of Our Ladyof Ta’Pinu (above), and the pretty narrow streets which are so

characteristic of Gozo’s capital, Victoria


hillsides into countless stepped fields and terraces. Soil was thenbrought from the valleys – a process indicative of the determinedpeople of these dry islands;

.

Of course the valleys are even more fertile, as I witnessed onemorning by detouring to the Lunzjata Valley on the way to theCalypso Cave. It’s the source of several springs, where, like inthe Garden of Eden, on the sides of the valley countless fruittrees with pomegranates, lemons, mandarins, figs, olives andgrapes are bountiful, and partnered by the abundant vegetablegardens on the valley floor. Maybe that’s why the religiousGozitans built a chapel there in medieval times, dedicated to OurLady of the Annunciation.

Gozo and Malta are self-sufficient in fruits, vegetables and crops,and export significant amounts of olive oil, wine, tomato pasteand sun-dried tomatoes. All this despite the scarcity of the mainresource - fresh water. There are no lakes or rivers on theislands, only wells and springs, some of which dry out during hotsummers.

By law every house is built with flat roof, and a hole in the middlefor collecting rain water in the rainy season into an undergroundbasin. This water is then used for gardens and any dirty housework, thus saving precious fresh water.

Gozo’s traditional crafts centre around leather, ceramic, glass,and bobbin lace making. Staying at the luxurious KempinskiHotel, we were close to a particularly delightful craft village,where you can see and buy a wide range of local traditionalcrafts. Unfortunately, I only discovered it on my last day on theisland. To make matters worse, it was a Sunday, and the onlyworkshop open was the leather craft shop. I should be gratefulfor at least that, since the majority of local people are religiousand attend Sunday services regularly.


Where to Stay…The Kempinski Hotel, Gozo, is a delightful five-star luxury resort, hidden away in a picturesquevalley near the village of San Lawrenz.

The harmonious, honey-coloured limestonebuilding, and relaxing, spacious Mediterraneanstyle décor combine to create a tranquil andindulgent ambience.

The comfortable, well equipped suites have abright, airy feel, with pleasant balcony’s thatoverlook lush gardens and choice of swimmingpools.

For the energetic, there are tennis and squashcourts, and a well equipped fitness centre. Anindoor pool takes care of the rare days when theweather is unkind.

Once you’ve worked up an appetite, choosefrom the elegant L’Ortolan restaurant, ItalianTrattoria, or perhaps the tasty treats in theBistro. In the summer there’s also a Gazebogarden snack bar, so you don’t have to venturetoo far from the beautiful pools.

With the morning chorus of birdsong, there’s nobetter place to wake to the Gozo sunshine! Hotel Kempinski, San Lawrenz, Gozo. Tel: (+356) 2211 0000

Website: www.kempinski.com/gozo

The two magnificent cathedrals in Victoria are architecturalmasterpieces, and are worth taking your time to visit


Staying with local crafts, one of the most unique can be foundin the II-Hagar Heart of Gozo Museum. Exquisite, brightlycoloured artificial flowers made from silk thread on wire, andarranged into enormous bunches intended as decorations forthe church. There are about 60 of these amazing arrangementsaround the islands, and you won’t find anything like this any-where else.

Despite the hard work, Gozitans still find time to relax, and theglorious locations certainly give possibilities only dreamt of inthe UK. I watched with interest as four elderly women took aleisurely dip during a hot lunchtime in Qawra Bay (also calledthe ‘Inland Sea’). To be more accurate, I watched their fourchatty heads bobbing up and down under white sun hats, loud,jolly, and totally carefree. You could see that this was their usualplace to meet and socialise, in the same way as the British mightgo to a cafe together. Very Mediterranean!

Like many southern Europeans, the locals enjoy an activecultural life and colourful festivals, often intertwined with uniquereligious traditions that take place on the islands throughout theyear. Many are worth seeking out, as they will add to therichness of your stay.

Cuisine in Gozo is mostly based around local produce, and thewide variety of sea food, thanks to the abundant marine lifearound the islands, and excellent choice of vegetables, fruits andvineyards. Food is quite rustic and simple in the way it’s cooked,but undoubtedly delicious with generous portions no matterwhich of the island’s eateries you choose.

Try the calamari in garlic and tomato sauce, served in the BoatHouse Restaurant at Xlendi Bay. Set in a glorious location rightby the water’s edge, it was a most delightful meal. I have toadmit that my fellow traveller’s mountain of seafood, withdistinctive octopus legs amongst the delicacies, looked every bitas appetising, although I think it would have taken me the restof the day to get through it! Lunchtime fish and prawn capriccio,and thick tasty onion soup at the Porto Vecchio Restaurant onthe seafront in Mgarr, also left a wonderful impression, teasingthe taste buds for the rest of the afternoon.

For cheese lover, the local offering is also something special,and the Gozitan’s are rightly very proud of it. The cheese wasserved every morning in our hotel, and I absolutely fell in lovewith it. The tastes vary depending on how it is served – andthere is plenty of choice. It can be served very young, slightly,or strongly matured, and either with or without spices and herbs.


A little relaxation is always welcome, and Gozo isheaven for those who like spa treatments.

The Kempinskij Hotel is situated on the western sideof the island, within easy walking distance of DwejraBay and the Azure Window. It has an award-winningspa, and Europe’s largest Ayuverdic centre, offeringvarieties of authentic therapies in seven traditionaltreatments, with a focus on Healing and Rejuvenation.Therapies are carried out by specially trained IndianAyuverda therapists.

Hidden away on the remote highest point of Gozo isthe Hotel Ta’Cenc & Spa, which has a wonderfullyrelaxing feeling of privacy about it. Bungalow typearch buildings nestle amid colourful flowers andsouthern greenery, with pink, red, yellow and lilacblossom, orange trees and palms.

The lagoon style heated swimming pool almost begsyou to dive in, and the beautiful sea scenery, whichopens in the distance behind neatly trimmed hibiscusbushes, completes the warm air of relaxation andtranquillity. It’s an ideal retreat to forget any worries,and just enjoy life and the moment here with the helpof the luxurious spa treatments.

Time to Relax. . .

Exquisite flowers crafted from silk thread

The glorious setting of the Boat House Restaurant, Xlendi Bay

…the mountain of seafood would have taken me the rest of the afternoon to get through…


For me, the youngest, and most tender in both texture and tastewas the best!

While we are musing on local specialities, I was particularlyintrigued by the unusual (and particularly innovative) methodfor catching the popular local Lampuki fish here. The Lampukilike to hide in the shade, so sharp-minded Gozitans lay palmleaves on water, and when the fish slowly begin to gather there,around goes the net!

Lampuki pies are simply mouth-watering, as are – localsavoury pastries usually filled with ricotta cheese, sometimewith addition of spinach. With so many delights to accompanymy morning coffee at the hotel’s breakfast buffet, it was hard toknow where to begin!

Gozo is surprising, fulfilling, and inspiring. If you are looking forthat perfect blend of time in the sun around a luxurious hotelswimming pool, first class facilities, coupled with a wealth oflocal experiences close at hand, this could be the ideal choice.

The beauty of being able to reach most places by foot, and havehistorical, cultural, and archaeological attractions, colourful anddiverse scenery, swimming and diving amongst the fascinatingrocks and sands, and the opportunity of exploring the local life,traditions and cuisine – make Gozo one of the Mediterranean’strue paradises.


On a warm October evening, it was a pleasant surpriseto see so many smart and elegantly dressed peoplegracefully entering the Aurora Theatre in Victoria.

With the growing trend to dress down for theatre,looking at these eager theatre-goers was like steppingback 30 years to my childhood, when my young andbeautiful parents put their best clothes on, my mumsparkling with jewellery and gems on her theatre clutch,and we would enjoy a family night at a theatre.

This night was a special one at the Aurora, and one ofthe most important annual Gozitan cultural events. It’sremarkable that an island with only thirty-thousandinhabitants has well supported opera houses. Therivals stand on the same street almost opposite eachother, and during the traditional October opera seasonin Gozo, both theatres – the Aurora and the Astra – thisyear (2013) staged performances to celebrate the 200thanniversary of the birth of the most productive operacomposer, Giuseppe Verdi.

The Aurora staged a superb performance of ‘Falstaff’,and across the street, the Astra offered ‘Othello’. Richtheatre and musical traditions in Gozo go back to 19thcentury, when the Philharmonic Society was initiallyestablished. Verdi’s and Puccini’s operas are the mostregularly staged in the Aurora.

A Night at the Opera

Malta Tourism Authority - www.visitmalta.com

Air Malta - Daily flights to Malta - www.airmalta.com

Ta’ Cenc Hotel and Wellness Spa - www.tacenchotel.com

Gozo Channel Ferry Company - www.gozochannel.com

Aurora Theatre, Gozo - www.teatruauroa.com


28



BROCH

URE

OUT N

OW

Cameroon is not generally the first destination that springs tomind when thinking of Africa. However, this fascinating countryis both affordable, and filled with surprises. With no real touristinfrastructure as yet, it’s perfect for those with a sense ofadventure.

I was there to explore the Congo Basin. This stretch of jungle,which spans central Africa, gave me the chance to follow in thefootsteps of the jungle’s most famous fictional resident: Tarzan.

A flight from Paris deposited me at in the south ofCameroon. The first thing that struck me when entering thebustling city of some 2.4 million inhabitants, was the snarlingtraffic which was made up predominantly of yellow taxis, manyof which were literally bursting apart at the seams.

Aside from the ubiquitous , most of the accommodationaround the city is basic, but functional. evenoffers free Wi-Fi, although don’t panic too much if the water inyour taps is a little on the brown side. There are some goodplaces to eat too, such as or the trendy , withits more American skewed food. The Artisan market offers stallsselling a cornucopia of local trinkets such as fabrics and somewonderful tribal “passport” masks.

Be warned, though, as over-enthusiastic vendors will wasyte notime in yanking your arms (or anything else they can grab) forattention and you can soon find yourself in the middle of a noisyscrum. This is Africa!Leaving the city, we ventured east to a real gem: the Ape ActionAfrica Sanctuary at This is a chance to get close to wildlowland gorillas, chimpanzees, mandrills and other primates, allof which have been rescued from captivity. The spacious, tidyenclosures are temporary accommodation until the animals arereleased back into the wild.

The Sanctuary offers tours around the grounds, with its vastarray of insect life, stunning flora and birds. Being guided by theexperienced staff was a fantastic start to my personal jungleadventure. If you really like it, the Sanctuary is always on thelookout for volunteers who fancy a sabbatical.

Heading further eastwards, ramshackle roadside stalls offer themost succulent pineapples I have tasted (grown just yardsaway), while others sell meat products for the hungry traveller.


Roadside Bush Meat

Andy Briggs headsto the Jungles of

Central Africa,in search of hislegendary hero.

Searching for Tarzan

…ramshackle roadside stalls offer the most succulent pineapples I have ever tasted.


I use the word “meat” in its term - this is bushmeat:porcupine or deer, mostly.

As the tarmac rapidly disintegrates into dirt, the stalls arereplaced by locals selling fresh bushmeat: pangolins ormonkeys are held up for the passing traveller to buy. Sadly,some of these are protected species - including gorillas andchimpanzee.

By now the roads are merely rutted tracks carved through theforest. In the rainy season they’re almost impassable, in the dryseason they kick up thick clouds of red dust that transform theroadside vegetation into a Martian landscape. Mighty loggingtrucks, hauling house-sized trunks, now become a regularfeature. Like bushmeat, logging is a problem which increasedtourism could help curb. It’s an intriguing argument: the morethe indigenous people learn that the forest is worth more intact,the safer the environment will become.

As night fell we reached our destination: . It’s safe and hasthe feel of a frontier town, having grown to support the miningand logging industry that fuel Cameroon’s economy.

The offers basic, but perfectly comfortableaccommodation and was an ideal base for my real adventure tobegin. This took the form of a trip to the - aprotected UNESCO World Heritage site and home to gorillas,chimpanzees... and the Baka pygmies.

A drive along ever-narrowing trails took me to the edge of theDja; after which progress was on foot. Navigating hunting trails, enveloped by mighty trees, razor sharp rattan, to a chorus of

birdsong.

After hours of sweating, bird twitching, cooing over stunninginsects - such as praying mantis - and marvelling over intriguingflora, like the putrid smelling stink cap mushrooms - we finallyreached a village.

At this point I felt as if I had stepped onto the set of .Still living in their traditional dome-shaped homes, crafted fromwoven leaves and branches, the Baka regard strangers with aquiet dignity. They have nothing to sell and ask nothing fromvisitors. However, it’s always courteous, not to mention deeplyappreciated, to give some money to the Village Chief as a thankyou.

After learning about their culture, the Village Chief gave aparting speech thanking us for visiting, and asking us to tellothers to come.

The Baka only stepped from the jungle in the 1960s, and someparts of Cameroon are still oblivious to their existence, but nowthey are finally reaching out to the world.


Left - Baka ManAbove - Traditional Baka huts.

Above - Pirogue Fisherman Silverback GorillasBelow - One of the many huge logging trucks

…home to gorillas, chimpanzees, and the Baka pygmies.


The final leg of the journey took us south of the Dja Reserve, tothe town of . After exchanging pleasantries with thevillage Chief, he supplied us with a pair of guides and fishingboats so we could travel along the . After a strenuous6-mile trek through the jungle, we reached the boats, or ratherthe pirogues.

Sitting just inches from the water’s surface we set off. Ancienttrees lined the riverbanks like canyon walls, fish-eagles watchedus with a cautious eye and the sounds of the jungle provided arelaxing soundtrack. Our destination was a set of shallow rapids.

“In the morning gorillas come here to drink,” said our guide. “Andthe afternoon, chimpanzees call out.” It was a shame all wecould hear was the grumbling rapids. He continued, “And, if youare patient, you may see elephants.”

I was excited. Tantor was Tarzan’s elephant mount as hebulldozed his way through the jungle, and here was my chanceto see a forest elephant. The guide assured me theyregularly see them.

“How often?” I asked with excitement.“Maybe every two weeks,” said my guide with a smile.

Even with the odds stacked against me, I held my breath, alertfor any movement in the thick foliage. I had followed Tarzan thisfar; I could only hope the Ape-Man’s luck was with me a littlelonger...

USEFUL CONTACTS:

Ape Action Africa Sanctuary www.apeactionafrica.org

Cameroon Tourist Board www.cameroun-infotourisme.com


Top - Pirogue FishermanAbove - Roadside Pineapple Stalls

Left -Praying Mantis


Steel Series Stratus Wireless Gaming Controller

Keeping the children happy and busy on a long trip is alwaysa challenge – and that includes the grown-up children. So aconsole-style controller that works with iPad’s, iPhones, andiPod’s has to help ease the boredom.

The new Steelseries Stratus Wireless Controller is specificallydesigned for use on these items, and is the first such deviveto be supported in iOS 7. When you return home it will evenwork on your HD TV via AppleTV using AirPlay.

With the rapid increase of games available for iOS devices,this has to be a winner!

The controller itself is neat, comfortable, and with everythingin what feels like exactly the right place. It has a pressuresensitive directional pad, eight pressure sensitive buttons,dual analogue sticks, and is easily connected to iOS devicesvia the dedicated pairing button.

It takes about two hours to fully charge the controller (via asupplied USB cable), which we found gave about 9 hours offull usage. That’s pretty good compared to similar devices,and this one is far more advanced than those we’ve testedbefore.

The main thing is that it works perfectly, and doesn’t becomeuncomfortable after a lengthy period of use. It just feelsright. Judging by the amount of times it’s been borrowed bydifferent members of the Pro Traveller team, it’s going to bevery popular!

www.steelseries.com


Griffin iTrip Auto

So there you are, driving through a foreign country, boredwith the few CD’s in your car, and no matter how much youscan the radio stations, nothing takes your fancy. So what doyou do? Well assuming you’ve been smart enough to investin Griffin’s new iTrip Auto, you just tune your car radio in toyour iPhone, iPad, or iPod, and listen to all that great musicyou’ve stored there, over your car’s stereo system. Neat,huh?!

The iTrip Auto is small, neat, and simply plugs into your carcigarette lighter or an auxiliary 12v socket. It connects to anydevice with a Lightning Connector, asending out an FM radiosignal that you tune your car radio to.

It’s easy to use, compact, tidy, and even has its own App togive you more control if you want.

We always love things that simply do what they are meant to,without any fuss, and this certainly does. As a bonus, it alsocharges your device at the same time...great if you’re on a long trip.

We tried it on a couple of Europeantrips recently, and the signal qualitywas faultless. Without doubt, muchbetter than everyone listening totheir own device on headphones,and never speaking to each otherall holiday!

The only problem in some areas wasactually being able to find a frequencyfree to use!

Highly recommended.

.www.griffintechnology.com

T R A V E LECH

Check out the latest Gadgetsand Gizmos, for your next trip


35



Tourists in Chile now have a luxurious new des-tination at their doorsteps – the world’s largestpool - which offers the truest Caribbean seaexperience, with its turquoise blue crystalclear sea waters, white sand beaches, watersports adventure and more.

Located about 100km (60 miles) west of the capital

of Santiago, this man-made lagoon at the San Alfon-

so del Mar resort (located in Algarrobo) is the larg-

est pool in the world and has been built overlooking

the Chilean central coast. The luxurious private re-

sort holds the Guinness record for having the

world’s largest crystalline water pool, which is a

kilometer long and spread across approximately 20

acres containing 66 million gallons (250 million lit-

ers) of water. To be precise, the world’s largest

pool is as large as approximately 6,000 eight-meter

long regular pools combined, according to the resort

authorities. Developed by Crystal Lagoons Corpora-

tion, the San Alfonso pool in Chile is surrounded by

white beaches and palm trees that provide a feel of

tropical seas. Guests can safely enjoy the oceanic

experience and also indulge in water sports such as

sail boating, snorkeling and the like. The lagoon’s

temperature is kept pleasantly balanced, hovering

at about 26 degrees during summer, which is nine

degrees more than the nearby sea temperature. Ac-

cording to Hotels.com, a leading online accommoda-

tion booking Web site, guests in this man-made

paradise never have to feel crowded as they have

their choice of 3,323 feet of constantly circulated

seawater.

“This masterpiece offers a wide array of water activi-

ties, including some that you won't find in any other

hotel pool,” the Web site states.

Check out some photos of the largest pool in the

world... photos that ought to get you up and run-

ning towards Chile if you're planning your next vaca-

tion

fountains were originally constructed to provide locals with

fresh running water, and even today they still act as a water

supply for passers-by to fill up their water bottles and enjoy a

refreshing taste of the Bernese water.

In the heart of the medieval city is the clock tower, known as

the Zytglogge. This delightful 800-year-old landmark is placed

centre stage so that its distinctive features cannot be missed.

They include cute character bears that circle the clock face, and

the sounding of cuckoo noises as the clock strikes on the hour.

The clock face emblematizes the zodiac with the stamped icons

and astrology themed dial giving an insight to its age.

The clock tower underwent extensive structural work, after the

great fire of 1408 when it was completely burnt to the ground.

The structural re-build was finally completed in 1983 and the

clock is still an iconic feature today. To uncover the mechanical


Although it’s the capital of Switzerland, Bern is less well known

than many other Swiss Cities. Most people wrongly assume that

Zurich or Geneva (see the article later in this issue) must be the

capital. Despite this, Bern has much to offer.

With an extensive history, the coat of arms proudly displays an

illustration of a bear. It represents the famous folk story that

the founder of Bern decided to name the city after the first

animal he came across.

Bern is charming and quaint, showcasing its proud history

though the charismatic buildings and numerous highlights.

Although the moody weather wasn’t exactly in my favour, it

didn’t stop me from uncovering the enchanting allure of the

pretty medieval streets.

Apart from rich folk tales painting the scenes, the history is also

told through many decorative objects. Wherever you go in Bern,

you’ll come across vivid, conspicuous fountains. There are one

hundred of these ornate works, some of which date back to the

16th century, and still displaying their original features. The

Bern isn’t exactly the best knownSwiss city, despite being thenation’s capital.Oonagh Duffy finds out more.

…it’s all about the Bears!

In Bern…

Bears have inhabited Bern since 1857, when the first bear pit, or ‘Bärenplatz’ was opened.



workings inside the clock, private tours with an experienced

tour guide can be arranged in advance.

It quickly becomes apparent that the majority of activities and

attractions in Bern are heavily focused on promoting past

events and folk tales. Apart from being displayed visually as the

city’s emblem, visitors can visit the impressive bear park. This

is home to four colossal brown bears from one family.

Bears have inhabited Bern since 1857, when the first bear pit -

or ‘Bärenplatz’ - was opened. After trying to renovate the old

bear pits in 1996, and failing to satisfy legal requirements or

the public, the BärenPark opened in 2009. Now the bears are

kept in a sanctuary replicating nature, with a flowing icy river,

and sloping grassy hills for them to graze on. The bears are

very well fed, as you’ll appreciate from their whimsical and

oblivious attitude to the public!

To compliment the picturesque city, the fragrant Rose Garden,

which was once an 18th century cemetery, exhibits over 220

different types of roses. It’s definitely a photogenic spot with

the striking purples, pinks and reds merging into a beautiful

kaleidoscopic landscape.

The garden was opened as a public park in 1913, and is a great

place for tourists and locals to relax with a good book, or for

children to play on the well-groomed, verdant lawns. From the

edge of the Rose Garden, a clear birds-eye view of the river Aar

is a pleasant sight, as the colour of the water is tinted by the

reflection of the surrounding greenery. The river, which is much

enjoyed by both locals and tourists during the summer season,

cradles the primitive buildings of the city, almost completely

encircling them.

If you're into arts and culture, Bern has three museums on offer,

including a history museum (the Bernisches Historisches), a

museum of fine arts, and the Albert Einstein museum situated

not far from the clock tower. Interestingly, the theoretical

physicist lived in Bern for three years, and it was here that he

developed his theory of relativity - teaching it to a handful of

students at the local college.

The museum; which was Einstein’s house, has been restored to

reflect the period of when he occupied it. Unfortunately, the

house has recently suffered from water damage due to a burst

water pipe and at the time of writing is closed to the public.

If having Einstein develop his most famous theories whilst in

Bern isn’t enough fame for the city, it has also acted as the

A bear psychologist was hired to work with the bearsfor a few years when they where first moved to Bern.

The river cradles the primitive buildings of the city, almost completely encircling them…



perfect background for some blockbuster films. The cobbled

streets have played host to a number of scenes for the James

Bond Film ‘Her Majesties Secret Service’, for example. It’s quite

appropriate with Bond being half Swiss, of course, but also

because the city has an alluring appearance which looks great

on film. The featured scenes included exterior shots of Bond

entering a building next to the train station, and scenes of a

stakeout on top of the Schweizerhof hotel.

To visit all the main attractions it’s much easier to ride through

the congestion of the traffic on a hired e-bike, rather than

hiring a car. These bikes have become quite popular in Europe,

replacing the traditional bicycles and even motorbikes. If, like

me, you’re not as confident on foreign roads (or too short to

reach the bicycle pedals), there is the option to hire a private

rickshaw. This has the bonus of the driver giving you a scenic,

and informative tour of the popular destinations.

The Swiss cuisine; although only using simple ingredients, is

exquisite, showcasing traditional dishes such as ‘Rosti’ (fried

potato and veal cooked in a cream sauce). Lets not forget that

the Swiss are famous for their fondue, and with many cheese

delicatessens in the city centre showcasing the delicious yet

potent local cheeses, it’s easy to get carried away with exactly

which cheese you’ll choose to dip your bread into.

To sample these Swiss delights, try the Kornhauskeller - a

magnificent baroque style restaurant made from sandstone,

and originally used as a place to store grain and wine until the

19th century. The entrance, just off the city’s cobbled streets,

greets you with an exorbitant, glistening crystal chandelier and

a grand staircase. It tempts you down to the restaurant, whilst

BERN

…it greets you with an exorbitant, glistening crystal chandelier and a grand staircase…

looking up in awe at the views of the sculptured high

ceilings and decorative murals on the walls.

The food, although not exactly cheap, is a delicious example of

traditional Bernese cuisine, and a well known culinary spot that

is definitely worth a visit. The architecture of the building

makes it a truly unique and atmospheric place to eat.

For a city break packed full of history and charm, Bern is

definitely a place worth seeing It offers something more than

just pretty scenery, and has an interesting story to tell that will

soon cajole you into falling for its charisma. I speak from

experience!


More and more travellers are taking extra short breaks tosupplement their traditional holidays, according to a recentsurvey. And with good reason, it seems.

A quick trip away with the family can be both enjoyable andeducational, of course. So how do you fancy a long weekendexploring the Royal Parks, taking a cruise on the Thames,admiring historic buildings, and a little shopping in the shadowof Her Majesty’s back garden?

A trip to London then, right? Wrong.

A few miles upstream, the area around Windsor offers a farmore relaxed, and less crowded option, in a truly delightfulsetting. Of course Windsor itself is known around the world forits famous castle, and naturally that’s a focal point for mostpeople coming here. But there is a whole lot more to captivatethe visitor both in and around the town.

Windsor, on the south bank, and Eton, across the historic bridgeon the north bank of the Thames in Berkshire, are both easilyexplored on foot – and that’s probably the best way. With a webof intriguing narrow streets, enticing alleyways, and riversidepaths, it’s a delight to just wander and enjoy soaking up thequintessentially English atmosphere.

Even if you’re not visiting the castle, it’s impossible to avoid. Itoverlooks the whole town, and dominates the landscape fromalmost every direction. That’s no bad thing, however, since it’scertainly one of the most aesthetically pleasing fortifications inthe country.

The main street skirts the castle walls, and is, as you wouldexpect, a mass of tourist shops and well known food and drinkchains. But for all that it still has an unmistakable, appealingbuzz about it. Take a look above the glass frontages and brandnames, though, and you’ll get a far better impression of thebuildings that Kings and Queens have looked down on forcenturies.

The 17th Century Guildhall was built by local boy ChristopherWren. There is a story that the local councillors didn’t trust thedesign, which only had the pillars around the outside, with alarge unsupported area in the centre. Ever the diplomat, Wrentherefore added columns in the centre, but made them so thatthey didn’t quite reach the ceiling – thereby reinforcing his plan,but with a safeguard in place for the council. The tiny one-inchgap still exists to this day.

On Castle Hill, adjacent to the fortified entrance, the cobbledroad and quaint shops add to the character of the area. Amid


ARoyalRetreat

The Editor takes the family on aregal alternative to the typicalLondon city break

The Thames at Windsor

…there is a story that the local councillors didn’t trust the design, which had a large unsupported area in the centre…



the narrow lanes, which have been here almost as long as thecastle, the ambience is enhanced by random characters in theirperiod costumes. Queen Elizabeth I, casually flicking throughthe postcard rack outside a local shop, certainly adds somethingto your visit!

Across the street is the railway station that Queen Victoriaregularly used. Now, though, the platforms have been moved afew hundred yards further along the line, and the fabulouslyornate 19th Century structure is now home to an attractiveindoor shopping centre. The pretty market stalls, traditionalsweet shops, and cafe in the old ticket office make for a uniqueexperience. At the far end is one of the original old steamlocomotives, now preserved immaculately for all to see.

Along the riverside there are pleasant gardens and parks fromwhich to enjoy the waterfront. As befitting a Royal Borough,there are majestic white swans supported by choruses of ducks,but for the best view of the Thames take a trip on one of themany river cruisers and let the scenery gently pass you by,accompanied by an informative and topical commentary.

There’s only one bridge across the River Thames here – a busypedestrian only viewpoint. That doesn’t mean you are totallysafe, however, as there seemed to be a constant stream ofpushbikes hurtling across like missiles. The risk is worth it,however, as stretching up the hill on the north bank is theequally appealing town of Eton.

Unlike Windsor, Eton is essentially one long medieval street,lined with alluring independent shops, which lead up to thefamous college at the top. It has an air of the past about it; ofdays when cucumber sandwiches and ginger beer were the fastfood of their day, and schoolboys in shorts and caps would playjolly japes on each other. As you’ll appreciate, dear reader, thiswas not a poor area. Even today, it has an elegant and refinedfeel that difficult to pinpoint. A sense of quality, one might say.

A trip on the excellent, open-topped City Sightseeing Bus givesa wider view of this, and the surrounding area. Taking in bothWindsor and Eton, it also encircles large expanses of WindsorGreat Park, drops in on the Legoland theme park, and evenobligingly stops for photos at the end of the ‘Long Walk’ – a milelong, dead straight broad avenue of trees leading directly to thecastle. An interesting, and often amusing commentary impartsa lot of information along the way, and highlights places ofinterest that might otherwise be missed.

Above: The Victorian Railway Station is now a shopping mallBelow: Period costumes close to Windsor Castle

Right: The historic High Street in Eton festooned with flagsRight Below: The Long Walk in Windsor Great ParkBelow: Being near Legoland is unmistakeable

…seeing Queen Elizabeth I casually flicking through the postcard rack outside a local shop, certainly adds something to your visit…



Windsor Great Park is vast, with many picturesque settings andattractions. A few miles south of Windsor, in the heart of thepark, is the Savill Garden. The 35 acres of ornamental gardensand woodlands lie across a gentle valley, which offers somemagnificent, colourful vistas, and idyllic walks.

It’s cleverly planted so that there are seasonal delights nomatter when you visit, and even if the weather is inclement youcan take shelter in the warm Queen Elizabeth TemperateHouse, and enjoy the Mediterranean warmth.

Whatever your personal likes and interests, there is ample toexcite and occupy you in the Windsor area. It’s easy to hireyour own boat, go cycling, take carriage rides, or just relax andwander. It’s undoubtedly family friendly, with many of theactivities and places of interest appealing to the youngergeneration.

After all, if it’s good enough for the Queen....

The Runnymede-on-Thames Egham, Surrey, TW30 0AGwww.therunnymede.co.uk

Runnymede was the location for one of the most significantevents in English history – the signing of the Magna Carta.When King John met his Barons, and put his mark on thedocument in 1215, it had a significant influence on rights andfreedoms not just in this country, but ultimately throughout theknown world. That in itself should be a good enough reason tocome and stay here, especially with the family, but there isanother. The Runnymede-on-Thames.

Regular readers will know I am not always a fan of British hotels,which often seem left behind by their international counterparts.The Runnymede-on-Thames is an exception of the highestorder.

It’s stylish, efficient, and immensely impressive, and yet stillmanages that most difficult of balances – it still feels homelyand instantly comfortable.

It’s set in a prime riverfront location, amid its own pleasantgardens, within easy reach of the M25 and Heathrow Airport(neither of which are a noise issue). There are outdoor playareas for the children, astro-turf tennis courts, as well as a topquality spa and wellness area, with a gorgeous pool.

The bright, spacious rooms are well appointed, extremelycomfortable, and those overlooking the river have the mostdelightful view to wake up to in the morning.

Where to Stay…

Above: The glorious colours of the Savill GardensLeft: The main street skirts the walls of Windsor Castle



I have to give high praise too for the ‘Left Bank’ restaurant.Not just for the food, which was indeed excellent, but also forthe unique welcome. Often hotel restaurants can appearconfusing when so many offerings are cooked to order, but ina buffet style. Personally I like this format, but I know othersget nervous of ‘doing the right thing’. So it was very pleasantto be welcomed on our first night, shown all the various‘stations’, and how they operated. Perfectly done, in a friendly,helpful manner. And I have to say the cuisine lived up to theexpectations in every sense.

To emphasise the child-friendly nature of the hotel, at theweekends there’s a special Ducklings Dinner (Ducks being thehotel’s symbol), when children can help the chef build theirmeal.

Being on the Thames, the hotel has two unique offerings thatare a bit special. Firstly, the ‘Hot Tug’, which is the ultimate‘must try’ treat. It’s essentially a hot tub which is a small boaton the river. The wood fired burner heats the water to abalmy 38 degrees, and you relax in the hot tub as you cruisedown the Thames. When filled, your shoulders are at waterlevel both inside and outside the tug. At the time of writing,it’s the only one in the UK, so don’t miss out.

For the more traditional, the Runnymede-on-Thames also hasits own small boats tohire. They hold up to 6 passengers, areeasy to drive, and the electric engines mean you can silentlycruise along this most attractive part of the River Thames.You can even arrange a picnic basket to complete the magicaladventure.

As you will have gathered, I was very impressed with theRunnymede-on-Thames... very impressed indeed. Perhapsthe best testament is to explain that traditionally I wouldbalance things with mention of a couple of niggles, or thingsthat were not quite up to scratch. In this case, however, Icouldn’t think of any.

Windsor Tourist Office - www.windsor.gov.uk

Windsor & Eton City Sightseeing - www.city-sightseeing.com

Savill Garden - www.royallandscape.co.uk

Windsor Tourist Office - www.windsor.gov.ukWindsor and Eton City Sightseeing Bus - www.city-sightseeing.comSavill Garden - www.royallandscape.co.uk

The Runnymede-on-Thames HotTug, with the hire boat behind.



‘We’d like you to go to Switzerland to solve the mysteryof an archaeology professor. He disappeared withouttrace over a hundred and twenty years ago?’

Not the most common assignment I’ve had as a travel writer, butone I received with a good deal of excited curiosity. I’d alwaysfancied myself as a bit of a detective, and Geneva was a city I’dnever had time to explore properly. So the deerstalker hat,magnifying glass, and my ‘

(every home should have one!) were hurriedlypacked.

People’s perception of Geneva generally falls into one of twocategories. Those that see it as a wealthy business centre andneutral meeting ground for high-level talks – which it is. Or thosewho picture the large lake with its iconic jet fountain, andbackdrop of snow-capped mountains – which it also has.

Far fewer people know about the delights of the picturesqueold-town area, perched on the hill that rises south of the riverRhone. To address this, the tourist board has launched theintriguing ‘ ’.

It’s a clever concept, which carefully combines the primaryelements of a city tour and a murder-mystery weekend, and rollsthem up in neatly packaged treasure hunt.

Meeting at the unashamedly ornate art deco pavilion, in the LeParc des Bastions, you’re presented with a fairly thick bookletwhich helps and guides you through your quest. Well, with a bitof brain-power and clue-solving it will!

A GenevanMystery

Trevor Claringbold heads to Switzerland insearch of a missing 19th Century Professor

…carefully combines the elements of city tour and a murder-mystery weekend…


The plot centres on the mysterious disappearance of oneProfessor Archibald Kymerion, who was a famous Genevanarchaeologist. One dark night, in June 1893, the professorvanished without trace. Around the same time, the city’sReformation museum announced that a valuable painting hadbeen stolen.

Were the two linked, or merely coincidence? What happened tothe professor, and to the painting?

The booklet is your investigative bible. It contains suggestionsof the different ways you can proceed, details of the maincharacters and places you’ll encounter, and – perhaps mostimportantly – the clues you need to be on the lookout for.

As luck would have it, you need to visit just about every mainplace of interest within the old city walls, making this not justfun, but also a comprehensive self-guided tour.

The International Museum of the Reformation is crucial, sincethis is where the stolen painting in question resided. Themuseum heralds the Reformation movement, which spreadacross Europe from Geneva in the 16th Century. The buildingitself is full of character, and with some wonderful exhibitscovering not just the Reformation, but the rise of Geneva itself.

A few minutes amble along the narrow historic streets, past theOld Arsenal and the impressive Maison Tavel (a medieval towerthat is the city’s oldest private residence), lays the cathedral ofSaint Peter. Squeezed into a relatively small square, thismajestic building appears even more dramatic because theproximity of other building means you have to crane your hearupwards to see the huge towers.

The beautifully ornate interior is captivating, but the realsurprise is hidden below. Descend the narrow stone steps andyou enter one of the most important archaeological sites northof the Alps. An eerily lit walkway transports you back to theearly Christian age, through the remains of churches that stoodon this spot long before the current cathedral. With the oldestremains dating from the late Roman period, it’s a fascinatingcontrast to the hi-tech modern city across the river.

The quest for useful clues also takes you to the nearby Saint-Germain church and the Town Hall, as well as some of the mostpicturesque spots in the winding medieval streets. If you havesuccessfully followed all the clues, it should lead you to thelocation where all is revealed. You can compare your resultwith the answer in the secret envelope, tantalisingly marked‘Solution’, and fixed inside the back cover of your booklet.

Of course I’m not going to tell you the answer. You’ll need totry for yourself. Suffice to say it was a very enjoyable, cleverlyplanned, interesting, and ultimately satisfying morning. Thewhole thing takes around three hours, although you are free tosplit that over several sections, or break it up so that you canenjoy the delights of the old city in a way they deserve.

In complete contrast, modern Geneva, and the waterfront,needs no subtle measures to encourage visitors. The vast LakeGeneva acts like a magnet to travellers, who come to enjoy theglorious parks and gardens, and marvel at the famous Jetd’Eau.

The city’s most famous landmark fires a jet of water 140 metresinto the sky, although its origins are not exactly glamorous. Itwas originally just a safety escape valve for the Coulouvreniérehydraulic plant. If you really want to experience the raw powerof the jet, take a walk out on the jetty that leads to its base.You can get up close and personal – not to mention extremelywet!

Whilst there, I was amused by the comments of one portlyAmerican tourist, who suggested to his wife that “There mustbe a glass pole in the centre, or some other trick to make it riseso high. Otherwise we’d have one even bigger in the U.S.”

Well, there isn’t… and you don’t!

The fountain is in fact just one more example of how Genevahas become a world leader at taking items, and making themsignificantly better, and far more advanced than anyone else.

The best examples of this, of course, are watches. The city has,for centuries, followed a simple principal that if is going to dosomething, then it has to be the best it can be – regardless ofcost. That’s why for four centuries Geneva has produced the


…an eerily lit walkway transports you back to the early Christian age, through the remains of churches that once stood on this spot…


most exquisite, accurate, exclusive, and sought after time-pieces on the planet.

A visit to the main shopping streets around the Rue duRhone will afford you ample choice of the best Swisswatches, as well as magnificent jewellery, designer clothes,and, of course, mouth-watering Swiss chocolate. Deeppockets, or a rich uncle who’s lent you his credit card, are adefinite advantage if you want to make the most of theretail opportunities in Geneva. There are no discount storeshere.

It is, however, one of Europe’s great cities, and despite itsreputation as a commercial hub, remains a fascinating placeto explore. Wonderful collections such as the Patek PhillipeMuseum – with more breathtaking jewellery than Aladdin’scave – will literally dazzle you. The immaculate promenadesand gardens that line both sides of the lake, including thefamous Flower Clock, will entice you to linger and soak upthe endlessly changing views of the lake.

Above all Geneva is a city that will surprise you. You justneed to give it a chance.

Café du Marché - Carouge

A delightfully atmospheric eatery in the bohemian Carougedistrict. Sometimes called the ‘Greenwich Village of Geneva’,Carouge is like a village within the city, with its own unique

atmosphere. It’s 18th Century Italian influence has attractedartists and craftsmen to its quaint streets and hidden gardens.The Café du Marché offers an eclectic, but gorgeous mix oflocal and Mediterranean influenced dishes, in warm, intimatesurroundings. Top class cuisine at more realistic prices thancentral Geneva.


Where to Eat…



Hotel Les Armures.

Ideally placed on top of the hill, in the very heart of the oldtown, this delightful 17th Century residence has played host topresident’s and celebrities.

It has the perfect blend of historic grandeur and modernconvenience, with beautifully decorated rooms and stylishbathrooms, backed up with good old fashioned customerservice.

It’s also just a stone’s throw from the Cathedral and theMuseum of the Reformation, and 5 minutes down the hill to thelake and main shopping area.

Rue du Puits-Saint-Pierre 1, 1204 Genevé. Tel: +41 22 3109172 www.hotel-les-amures.ch

Getting Around

If ever there was a city that you don’t need to worry aboutgetting around, it’s Geneva. If you’re arriving by plane, pickup a free train ticket to the city centre from the baggagecollection hall.

When you check into your hotel, foreign guests are given afree public transport ticket for the duration of their stay. It’svalid on busses, trams, and even the small yellow water taxi’sthat ply back and forth across the lake.

Geneva is not a large city, however, and for the most partyou can enjoy the main heart of it simply by walking.

Useful Contacts

Geneva Tourism: www.geneve-tourisme.ch/en/home/

Flights - Swiss: www.swiss.com

Where to Stay…

GENEVA


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