production of manufactured fibers
TRANSCRIPT
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Chapter 4 Production of Manufactured Fibers
70% of all textiles usedApparel – 48%
Home furnishings – 40%excluding floor coverings
Floor coverings – 99%Industry – 91%
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Characteristics of Manufactured Fibers
Quantities can be controlled easily b/cnot dependent on nature
Properties may be tailored to the needs of the consumerBlending of manufactured fibers◦ With natural fibers - optimize end product
characteristicsEx. polyester/cotton blend:
cotton gives comfort and pleasant handpolyester adds resilience and durability
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Categories of Manufactured Fibers
Three main categories◦ Manufactured Cellulosics
Derived from wood pulp and cotton lintersCannot be used as textiles in their original form
◦ SyntheticsCreated from petrochemicals
◦ Inorganic fibersGlassMetalCeramic
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Generations of Manufactured Fibers
First generation ◦ Regenerated from natural materials
Rayon
Second generation ◦ Synthesized from petroleum products
Nylon
Third generation◦ Developed within the past 20 years ◦ High-performance or high technology
Microfibers
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Formation of Manufactured Fibers
Spinning◦ Process of making a manufactured fiber
Polymer (fiber forming substance) gets melted into dopeDope is extruded/forced through a Spinneret
◦ SpinneretLooks like a showerheadHas multiple holes, each one creates one filament
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Antron® nylon solution dyed polymer chips
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Spinneret
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Filament Fiber Production
Filaments extruded simultaneouslyEach filament does not touch each otherFilaments are hardened as they emerge from the Spinneret Several techniques for hardening the filaments
Described by the number and size of the filaments◦ 70/40
Yarn is 70 denier and there are 40 filaments
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Hardening Techniques for Filament Fibers
Melt spinning◦ Polymer melted◦ Force thru Cool air to
solidify◦ Simple / less expensive
Nylon, olefin, polyester, saran and glass
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Hardening Techniques for Filament Fibers
Dry spinning◦ Polymer dissolved in
solvent◦ Extruded into warm, dry
air◦ Warm air dissolves the
solvent + hardens the filament◦ Acetate, vinyon, some
acrylics
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Hardening Techniques for Filament Fibers
Wet spinning◦ Polymers dissolve in chemical bath◦ Extruded into other chemical bath◦ Acrylic and viscose rayon
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Hardening Techniques for Filament Fibers
Solvent spinning◦ Newest process◦ Polymer is dissolved in amine oxide◦ Extruded into solvent bath◦ Tencel, Lyocell
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Special-Use Spinning Methods
Gel Spinning◦ Hybrid of wet + dry spinning◦ Also called Solution Spinning◦ Plastic films and packing materials◦ Spectra®
Emulsion Spinning◦ for insoluable fibers – high melting points◦ Teflon®◦ GORE-TEX® fabrics
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Specialized Fiber FormationHeterogeneous fibers◦ Bicomponent
Hollow fibers
Microfibers
Fibrillated fibers
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Advantages of Bicomponent Fibers
Single fiber has characteristics of both polymers
◦ Increased comfort◦ Better absorbency◦ Cross-dyed effects can be achieved
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Bilateral FibersAlso called side-by-side bicomponent fibers◦ Two different polymers fed into spinneret
Fig 4-4a p.58
◦ Benefit of crimpResult of one fiber shrinking more than the other Crimped fibers have:
Improved handIncreased coverLoft elasticity
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Sheath-Core Fibers
Spun so one fiber encases the other
◦ See #43 on p.26 of your Swatch Kit
◦ Refer to Fig 4-4b on p. 58 of textbook
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Matrix or Biconstitute Fibers
Created with two generically different fibers◦ Fine, short lengths of one fiber embedded in
another before extrusion Fig. 4-5
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Hollow FibersHave one or more spaces in their centers Fig 4-6 p. 58◦ Air injected into fiber as it is being formed◦ Shape determined by spinneret holes◦ By adding gas producing compounds to the spinning
solution
Lightweight and trap air◦ Often used for cold weather clothing
Thermolite® by DuPont
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Photomicrograph of hollow nylon fibers (cross section)
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Photomicrograph of hollow nylon fibers (cross section)
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MicrofibersProduced by carefully controlled melt spinning
◦ Splitting methodTwo incompatible polymers are extruded then separated.
◦ Sea-island methodPolymer for the microfiber is embedded into another polymer.
Also called microdenier fibersCharacteristics◦ Soft◦ Excellent drape
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Fibrillated fibers◦ Characteristics
Coarse fibers used for bagging and twine◦ Extrude asheet of polymer◦ Draw and stretch the sheet
This causes it to break into interconnected fibers
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Manufactured Fiber ModificationsDictated by the Projected End Use
Drawing
Heat setting
Texturing
Cutting
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Modifications continued
Drawing –parallel alignment or orientation of molecules
Partially oriented yarns (POY)◦ Not drawing to the maximum length
Fully oriented yarns (FOY)◦ Drawing to the maximum length
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Undrawn Antron® nylon fiber
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Modifications continued
Heat Setting◦ Heat and pressure permanently change shape
Improves dimensional stability of thermoplastic yarns
.Create permanent pleats and creases
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Pleats Heat Set into Polyester
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Modifications continued
Texturing – Produces the following:◦ Bulkier yarns◦ Opaque yarns◦ Yarns with elastomeric qualities
Since synthetic fibers are moldable, they will retain a permanently textured shape
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Modifications continued
Cutting◦ Creates staple yarns from filament fibers
◦ Extruded from spinnerets with many holes to produce more economically
◦ See Fig. 4 – 8 p. 61 for a detailed summary of the process
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Antron® nylon staple tow
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Additional Treatments
Applied during the spinning process◦ Additives such as:
DyesPigmentsDelusterantsWhiteners
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Chapter 5 Manufactured Cellulosic Fibers
Two categoriesRegenerated cellulosic fibers
Derivative cellulosic fibers
Both made from cotton linters and wood pulp
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Regenerated Cellulosic Fibers
Rayon◦ Pure cellulose fiber◦ Originally produced from mulberry trees◦ Known as “artificial silk”◦ Viscose rayon only type produced in US
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Viscose rayon fiber
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Varieties of Rayon
Originally inexpensive to manufacture
Viscose RayonCuperammonium rayonHigh-wet modulus (HWM) or polynosic rayonHigh-tenacity rayon
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General Properties of Rayon
Excellent absorbencyWet strength lower than cottonPoor resiliencyDoes not pill
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Photomicrograph of viscose rayon fibers
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Photomicrograph of flat rayon fibers (cross section)
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Mechanical Properties of Viscose Rayon
Medium-weight fiberNot as strong as cottonAbrades more easily than cottonWeaker wet than dryNot dimensionally stable◦ Tends to shrink progressively when launderedPoor elastic recoveryPoor resilienceFlexible fiber
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Chemical Properties of Viscose Rayon
Very absorbentComfortable to wearDyes readily in rich vibrant colors
Burns like cottonConducts electricity – no static buildup◦ Catches fire when exposed to open flame.◦ Continues to burn when flame is removed.◦ Smells like burning paperAcids and alkalis degrade it
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Environmental Properties of Viscose Rayon
Silverfish
Mildew
Sunlight
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End Uses of Viscose RayonFrequently used in blends◦ Blended with fibers that are more durableMost rayon fabrics are woven
Fiber may stretch when damp or wet
Nonwoven rayon fabric used in medical and sanitary products
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Care of Viscose Rayon
Dry cleaning recommendedNonchlorine bleaches are safeFollow care labels!!! Store in a clean, dry environment
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More Rayon p.67
Cuperammonium Rayon◦ Bemberg rayon (bember industries until 1975)◦ Known as cupro◦ Silkier in feel and appearance◦ Lightweight summer clothing
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More Rayon
High-Wet Modulus Rayon◦ Stronger, more resilient, more dimensionally stable◦ Modulus refers to resistance to stress + strain◦ European generic name is Model
High-tenacity Rayon◦ stronger than viscose
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LyocellNewest regenerated cellulosic fiber◦ Tencel® by Courtaulds Fibers, Inc.◦ Lenzing Lyocell® by Lenzing Fibers
CorporationSolvent used is nontoxic◦ Self-contained solvent-spun process
Creates little water and air pollution◦ Environmentally friendly fiberProcess more expensive
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Tencel® lyocell fiber
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Physical Properties of Lyocell
Fiber is roundSmoothNo striationsFibrils or tiny fibers on surface◦ Creates a fine, soft finish with reduced luster
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Photomicrograph of lyocell fibers
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Mechanical Properties of Lyocell
Stronger than other cellulosic fibers
More abrasion resistance
Less shrinkage
Better resilience
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Chemical Properties of Lyocell
Similar to rayonAbsorbentDyes wellComfortable to wearExcellent static resistance
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Environmental Properties of Lyocell
Similar to rayon◦ Silverfish
◦ Mildew
◦ Sunlight
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End Uses of LyocellApparel & Home Furnishings
Knits and Wovens
Due to high cost – limited nonwoven applications
Frequently used in blends◦ Especially cotton
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Care of Lyocell
Wash or Dry clean
Follow care labels closely
Friction can cause additional fibrillation of fibers
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Derivative Cellulosic Fibers
Acetate and Triacetate◦ Chemically changed during production
◦ Derivative of cellulose called estersFIBERS ARE NOT CELLULOSE
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Cellulose Acetate Commonly Called Acetate
Developed during WW1 as coating for aircraft wingsAfter war it was developed into a fiberProduction began in 1924First thermoplastic fiberTrade names◦ Chromespun®◦ Estron®
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Physical Properties of Acetate
White fiberLongitudinal striationsIrregular cross section resembling popcorn – see p. 70Lustrous, but may be delusteredSmooth handWhite unless dyed prior to extrusion
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Photomicrograph of acetate fibers
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Mechanical Properties of Acetate
Very weak fiberLighter in weight than cotton or rayonPoor abrasion resistancePoor elasticityPoor resilienceNot dimensionally stableDoes not pillDrapes well
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Chemical Properties of AcetateModerate absorbencyBuilds static electricityMelts at temps over 275ThermoplasticResistant to acids and basesCan be bleached with nonchlorine bleachNot as comfortable to wear as:◦ Cotton, linen or rayon
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Environmental Properties of Acetate
Susceptible to atmospheric gases◦ Color may change
Silverfish if heavily starchedMildewSunlight degrades◦ But less than silk/other cellulosic fibers◦ Delustered acetate less resistant to sunlight
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End Uses of AcetateApparel and Home FurnishingsDon’t use when durability is neededLining fabricFrequently used in:◦ Taffeta, satin and brocade for formal wearCigarette filtersPersonal hygiene productsFiberfillFilters
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Care of Acetate
Dry cleaning recommended
Stay away from acetone
Nonchlorine bleaches may be used
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Triacetate
U.S. production ceased in 1986Produced today in;◦ United Kingdom◦ Japan◦ Belgium
Similar to acetate:◦ Physical and chemical properties◦ Differs mechanically
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Triacetate
Mechanical Properties (compared to acetate)
◦ Better resiliency◦ Better dimensional stability◦ Better elasticity◦ Like acetate
Low strengthPoor abrasion resistance
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TriacetateChemical Properties (compared to acetate)
◦ Less absorbant
◦ Builds up static electricity (like acetate)
◦ Much less senstitive to acetone
◦ Less heat-sensitive (given special heat setting treatment)creases and pleats are more permanent
Environmental Properties◦ More resistant to mildew than acetate
◦ Resistant to silverfish, moths and carpet beetles
◦ Moderate resistant to sunlight
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TriacetateEnd Uses◦ Used when durability is not important
◦ Used when pleat and crease retention is important
◦ Bedspreads
◦ Comforters
◦ draperies
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TriacetateCare of◦ Machines washed
◦ Hand washed
◦ Dry cleaned
◦ Use non-chlorine bleach
◦ Needs lining for sunlight if used as draperies
◦ Acetone will damage it.
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