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Program
Scientific Direction Giovanna Motta Editing Antonello Battaglia Alberto Becherelli Anida Sokol
Centro di ricerca Cooperazione con l'Eurasia, il Mediterraneo e l'Africa sub sahariana
Facoltà di Lettere e Filosofia Dipartimento di Storia, Culture, Religioni
Honors Center of Italian Universities
SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE
Giordano Altarozzi, Universitatea Petru Maior, Târgu Mureș
Victor Aquino, Universidade de Sao Paolo
Nello Barile, IULM, Milano - Franklin University, Lugano
Antonello Folco Biagini, Sapienza Università di Roma
Laura Bovone, Centro studio moda e produzione culturale, Milano
Patrizia Calefato, Univ. di Bari, Master in Fashion Studies, Sapienza Univ. di Roma
Cinzia Capalbo, Sapienza Università di Roma
Andrea Carteny, Sapienza Università di Roma
Vittoria Caratozzolo, Master in Fashion Studies, Sapienza Università di Roma
Mariam Chkhartishvili, Ivane Javakhishvili, Tbilisi State University
Paola Colaiacomo, Università IUAV, Venezia
Anna Maria Curcio, Università Roma Tre
Leopoldina Fortunati, Università di Udine
Fabiana Giacomotti, Master in Fashion Studies, Sapienza Università di Roma
Maria Cristina Giorcelli, Università di Roma Tre
Simona Ironico, Istituto Marangoni, Milano
Maria Cristina Marchetti, Sapienza Università di Roma
Alison Matthews David, Ryerson University, Toronto
Mario Morcellini, Sapienza Università di Roma
Giovanna Motta, Sapienza Università di Roma
Eugenia Paulicelli, Queens College, City University of New York
Federica Perazzini, Master in Fashion Studies, Sapienza Università di Roma
Simona Ranaldi, Accademia del Lusso, Roma-Milano
Giulia Rossi, Fashion Journalist - Sapienza Università di Roma
Alessandro Saggioro, Sapienza Università di Roma
Satomi Sugiyama, Franklin University, Lugano
Donatella Strangio, Sapienza Università di Roma
Efrat Tseëlon, University of Leeds
Lucio Ubertini, IHP Unesco – Italian Committee
Martine Villelongue, Université Lumiere Lyon 2
STEERING COMMITTEE
Antonello Battaglia, Sapienza Università di Roma
Alberto Becherelli, Sapienza Università di Roma
Giuliana Paola De Luca, Sapienza Università di Roma
Gabriele Natalizia, Sapienza Università di Roma
Valeria Nofri, Sapienza Università di Roma
Stefano Pelaggi, Sapienza Università di Roma
Roberto Sciarrone, Sapienza Università di Roma
Anida Sokol, Sapienza Università di Roma
Alessandro Vagnini, Sapienza Università di Roma
11
HOW TO GET HERE
FROM FIUMICINO AIRPORT "LEONARDO DA VINCI"
BY TRAIN: (recommended): The best option is to take the no-stop train
“Leonardo Express” to Termini station (travel time: about 30 minutes),
which costs 14 euro. From Termini follow the instructions below. The train
timetable and fares can be found on the TRENITALIA website.
BY TAXI: The official fixed rate (all included) from Fiumicino airport to any
destination within the ancient Roman walls (Mura Aureliane), including the
Sapienza campus, is 48 euro. To the Sapienza campus it takes about 50
minutes.
FROM CIAMPINO AIRPORT "G. B. PASTINE"
BY BUS (recommended): Connections to Termini station (in about 30-40
minutes) by the bus services ATRAL, COTRAL, SIT and TERRAVISION
companies. The fare is about 5 euro. From Termini follow the instructions
below.
BY TAXI: The official fixed rate (all included) from Ciampino airport to any
destination within the ancient Roman walls (Mura Aureliane), including the
Sapienza campus, is 30 euro. The ride to the Sapienza campus takes about
30 minutes.
FROM TERMINI TRAIN STATION:
The campus is located within 15 minutes walking distance from Termini
station. Leave the station through the right side exit (Via Marsala) and
follow these directions. Alternatively take one of the taxi cabs outside the
front entrance of the station.
12
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION:
SUBWAY: Take the Line B and stop at Castro Pretorio. The campus is within
10 minutes walking distance.
BUS: Several bus lines stop in the streets around the campus. The ticket
price for a single ride is 1.50 euro and they need to be purchased in
advance. To plan your trip, visit the ATAC website.
USEFUL LINKS:
PUBLIC TRAIN NETWORK:
http://www.fsitaliane.it/homepage_en.html
13
FIUMICINO AIRPORT:
http://www.adr.it/web/aeroporti-di-roma-en-/pax-fco-fiumicino
CIAMPINO AIRPORT: http://www.adr.it/web/aeroporti-di-roma-en-/pax-cia-ciampino BUS AND SUBWAY PUBLIC NETWORK:
http://www.atac.roma.it/index.asp?lingua=ENG
14
SAPIENZA CAMPUS MAP
15
THE CONFERENCE VENUE:
The panels will take place at Sapienza University of Rome, Piazzale Aldo
Moro 5, 00185 Rome, in six different rooms (Aula).
- Faculty of Humanities (Facoltà di Lettere e Filosofia), ground floor:
Aula I
- The Rectorate Building, ground floor: Aula Organi Collegiali, Aula 3.0,
Aula C
- The Rectorate Building, first floor: Aula Senato Accademico, Museo
Laboratorio d’Arte Contemporanea
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OPENING AND REGISTRATION DESK CONFERENCE FLOOR MAP: FIRST DAY (MAY 20) - FACULTY OF HUMANITIES LETTERE E FILOSOFIA - GROUND FLOOR THE REGISTRATION AND INFORMATION DESK WILL BE OPEN FROM 13:00
17
CONFERENCE FLOOR MAP: SECOND DAY (MAY 21) – THE RECTORATE
BUILDING - GROUND FLOOR THE REGISTRATION AND INFORMATION DESK WILL BE OPEN FROM 9:30
18
CONFERENCE FLOOR MAP: THE RECTORATE BUILDING–AULA ORGANI
COLLEGIALI
19
REGISTRATION, DINNER, LUNCH
REGISTRATION:
On the first day (May 20) registration will be held at the Faculty of
Humanities (Facoltà di Lettere e Filosofia), on the ground floor. The
registration and information desk will be open on Wednesday starting from
13:00.
On the second day (May 21), registration will be held at the Rectorate
Building on the ground floor.
The registration and information desk will be open on Thursday starting
from 9:30.
DINNER:
May 20, 20:30. Dinner will be held near Sapienza University at Casa
dell’Aviatore, Viale dell’Università 20, 00185 Rome. Dinner, lunch and
coffee break are included in the price of the participation fee.
LUNCH:
May 21, 13.30-15.00. Lunch will be served at the campus of Sapienza
University of Rome, Rectorate Building- Aula Organi Collegiali.
COFFEE BREAK:
May 21, 11.30. Coffee will be served at the campus of Sapienza University
of Rome, Rectorate Building- Aula Organi Collegiali.
20
CASA DELL’AVIATORE (DINNER) MAP
MAY 20, 20:30
21
ORGANI COLLEGIALI (COFFEE BREAK AND LUNCH) MAP:
MAY 21, 11: 30 – COFFEE BREAK
MAY 21, 13: 30 –15: 00 – LUNCH
Full Program
25
OPENING OF THE CONFERENCE May 20, 2015
AULA I – Faculty of Humanities 15:00
Eugenio Gaudio Rector
Giovanna Motta Project and Coordination of Rome Conference 2015
Alessandro Saggioro President of the Fashion Studies Course
Roberto Nicolai Head of the Faculty of Humanities
Guido Pescosolido Head of the Department of History, Cultures and Religions
27
28
29
Session A History/Storia
A1 - From Antiquity to the Middle Ages Dall’Antichità al Medioevo p.33 A2 – L’Ancien Régime p.34-35 A3 – The Centuries of Bourgeoisie I secoli della borghesia pp.35-36 A4 – Italian Fashion in the Twentieth Century La moda italiana nel primo e nel secondo Novecento pp.36-37 A5 – The Soviet Fashion La moda del socialismo reale pp.37-38
Session B Culture and Society/Cultura e Società
B1 – Fashion, Health and Sustainability Moda, salute e Sostenibilità pp.39-40 B2 – Spaces and Fashion Museums Spazi e musei della moda p.40 B3 – Youth Culture, Counterculture and Marginality Cultura giovanile, controcultura e marginalità p.41 B4 – Fashion Studies Sapienza Workshop p.42
Session C
Clothes and Memory/Vestiti e memoria
C1 – Traditional Costumes Costumi tradizionali pp.43-44
30
C2 – Dressing your Faith Vestire la fede p.45
C3 – Towards Modernity Verso la modernità pp.46-47
Session D
Sociology and Communication/Sociologia e Comunicazione
D1 – Fashion and Theory Moda e teoria pp.49-50
D2 – Language, Media and Advertisements Lingua, media e pubblicità p.51
D3 – New Communication Devices and Methods Nuovi strumenti e metodi di comunicazione pp.52-53
Session E Economy and Fashion Brands/Economia e brand
E1 – Economic History Storia Economica pp.55-56 E2 – Protection of Intellectual Property La tutela normativa del prodotto intellettuale p.57 E3 – Made in Italy pp.58--59
E4 – Fashion Details Accessori p.60
31
Session F
Fashion Schools and Maisons/Scuole e Case di Moda
F1 – Marangoni Institute Fashion and Design Istituto Marangoni Moda e Design pp.61-62 F2 – Accademia Del Lusso p.62 F3 –Maisons de Mode p.63 F4 – Fashion and Politics Moda e politica p.64
Session G Textile and Production Techniques/Tessuti e tecniche di produzione
p.65
Session H Fashion and Gender History
Moda e Storia di Genere
H1 –Fashion and Gender Moda e genere pp.67-68 H2 – Gender and Power Genere e potere pp.68-69
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Session M
Literature, Art, Performance Letteratura, Arte, Spettacolo
M1 – Literature Letteratura p.71 M2 –Art Arte p.72 M3 –Performance Spettacolo p.73
33
May 20, 2015 AULA I
16.00-17.00
Session A
HISTORY
Panel A-1 From Antiquity to the Middle Ages
Dall’Antichità al Medioevo
CHAIRPERSON ALESSANDRO SAGGIORO
MURAT TURGUT
The Confrontation About Effects of Dress and Vicinity Cultures to the Hittite Empire and the Late Hittite Period According to Kurunta and Ivriz Reliefs
LUISANA D’AMATO
The Role of Costumes in the Levant from c. 1565 BC until 586 BC
ARTURO SÁNCHEZ SANZ
Dressed for Life and War: Female Fashion of the Nomadic People of Eurasia in Antiquity
CARLA DEL ZOTTO
Il Costume nella Scandinavia medievale. Implicazioni sociali e giuridiche
34
May 20, 2015 AULA I
17.00-18.00
Session A
Panel A-2
L’Ancien Régime
CHAIRPERSON ALESSANDRO SAGGIORO
GIORDANO ALTAROZZI Considerazioni sulla “Strage degli Innocenti” di Pieter Bruegel il Vecchio
ANA MARIA MOISUC
Court Clothes in the Romanian Principalities: The Sixteenth Century
RAFFAELLA MORSELLI
Becoming the Duchess of Lorrain: Margherita Gonzaga (1591-1632) and Her Bridal Wardrobe
SAMANTHA MARUZZELLA
Piavole de Franza: Venezia inventa il manichino
PAOLA GORETTI Cabinet de beauté: la Galleria delle Belle di Peterhof di Pietro Antonio Rotari
MIHAELA GRANCEA
Observations of the Western Travelers on the Danubian Principalities, Transylvania and Banat during the Eighteenth Century Concerning the Identitary Character of the Other’s Clothing
35
PAOLO DE LUCA
Il Guardaroba della famiglia Chigi-Barjatinskij nei documenti dell’archivio e nelle opere d’arte del Palazzo Chigi di Ariccia
May 20, 2015 AULA I
(Faculty of Humanities) 18.00-19.00
Session A
Panel A-3
The Centuries of Bourgeoisie
I secoli della borghesia
CHAIRPERSON DANIEL POMMIER VINCELLI
ELENA DUNDOVICH
Alla corte degli zar. Le riforme pietrine e l’identità nazionale
CATERINA BASSETTI
The Victorian Age: Economy, Fashion and Society
ALESSANDRO VAGNINI Reality and Symbols in the Uniforms of Austria-Hungary
36
CORNEL SIGMIREAN
MARIA TĂTAR-DAN
Between Tradition and Modernity: Fashion in Transylvania at the end of the Nineteenth Century. The Romanian Case
GIUSEPPE MOTTA
Fashion and Art Nouveau. Social Changes and Innovations
EMILIO CASSESE Dalla Belle Époque alla rivoluzione: la moda come specchio della società
CESARE LA MANTIA The Decline of the Habsburg Empire through its Fashion
May 20, 2015 AULA 3.0
16.00-17.00
Session A
Panel A-4
Italian Fashion in the First in the Twentieth Century
La moda italiana nel primo e nel secondo Novecento
CHAIRPERSON GABRIELE NATALIZIA
ROBERTA SASSATELLI
Alle Radici del Made in Italy
37
CECILIA CESTARI
Il Commentario Dizionario Italiano della Moda di Cesare Meano (1936)
DONATELLA STRANGIO
L’Italia nella competizione internazionale: la crisi del settore tessile (1973-1976)
May 20, 2015 AULA 3.0
17.00-19.00
Session A
Panel A-5
The Soviet Fashion
La moda del socialismo reale
CHAIRPERSON GABRIELE NATALIZIA
ANDREA GIANNOTTI La Maison Moscou. The Failure of the Sartorial Constructivism and the Stalinist Style
ANDREA CARTENY Russian Influences on the Western Fashion
38
MAGDALENA PASEWICZ-
RYBACKA
Dress of a New Man. A concept of Socialistic Fashion in People’s Poland in the early 1950s
ZUZANA ŠIDLÍKOVÁ
From Sweatpants to a Mini-Skirt
ÜLLE TOODE Fashion, Society and Tradition: The Estonian Case
VANESSA MARTORE
La storia segreta della moda sovietica: l’industria della moda e la società sotto il regime comunista nei paesi dell’Est europeo
39
May 20, 2015 AULA Organi Collegiali
16.00-17.30
Session B CULTURE AND SOCIETY
CULTURA E SOCIETÀ
Panel B-1
Fashion, Health and Sustainability
Moda, salute e sostenibilità
CHAIRPERSON
FABIANA GIACOMOTTI
DANA CONNELL
HUFF AMANDA
Fashionability and Comfort: Designing Chemotherapy Uniforms to Enhance the Well-Being of Patients and Oncology Nurses
ALISON MATTHEWS
DAVID
Historical Fashion Under the Microscope: The Science of Dangerous Dress Past and Present
LAURA BOVONE Ethical Fashion as a Post-Postmodern Phenomenon
MARZIA NOCILLI L’esperienza italiana per una moda etica
CARLO AMENDOLA
MARTINA MUSARRA
RAFFAELLA PRETI
Industria cosmetica: evoluzione del mercato e atteggiamento dei consumatori
40
PETRA KOVACS
DANIELE DI GIORGIO
La nascita di nuovi valori nell’orizzonte del sistema moda
May 20, 2015 AULA Organi Collegiali
17.30-19.00
Session B
Panel B-2
Spaces and Fashion Museums
Spazi e musei della moda
CHAIRPERSON
DONATELLA STRANGIO
MICHAL LYNN
SHUMATE
Fashion Spaces
ILARIA SCHIAFFINI
Tra moda, arte e fotografia: Irene Brin e la galleria L’Obelisco
ELEONORA LANAVE Firenze, Ferré e la Biennale della moda del 1996
MARTA ROSSI
“El cuerpo vestido”. Elementi d’identità catalana al Museu del Disseny di Barcellona
41
May 20, 2015 Museo Laboratorio di Arte Contemporanea
16.00-17.30
Session B
Panel B-3
Youth Culture, Counterculture and Marginality
Cultura giovanile, controcultura e marginalità
CHAIRPERSON NELLO BARILE
ALESSANDRO PISTECCHIA Cour des miracles: simboli e costumi
FABIO ISOPO
Mods: stile di vita
ROBERTO SCIARRONE
La Beat generation. Musica, abiti, trasgressione
VALENTINA MARIANI Houte Couture e fantascienza. La moda “spaziale” degli anni Sessanta e Settanta
ALESSANDRA
CASTELLANI
Tattoo Trend and Ephemeral Appeal
MARCO LUCIETTI
Moda tra ispirazione, contaminazione, educazione: ISKO I-SKOOL™ e i giovani talenti del denim
42
May 20, 2015 Aula C
17.30-19.00
Session B
Panel B-4
Fashion Studies Sapienza - Workshop
CHAIRPERSON
STEFANO PELAGGI
CRISTINA OLIVA L’emancipazione femminile nella lingerie: la rivoluzione fatta con le calze di seta
ASSIA FEDERICA ORNELI Storia del costume e società nel cinema: il caso de “Il grande Gatsby”
ELEONORA
SGAMBETTERRA L’Evoluzione sociale e culturale dell'intimo: dal corpetto al reggiseno
NINA KELECSÉYIOVÁ
Turkish Fashion
ALEXIA VAHLAS The Marmoreal Polychrome and Draperies in Religious Sculpture in Rome of the Seventeenth Century
43
May 20, 2015 AULA Senato Accademico
16.00-17.30
Session C CLOTHES AND MEMORY IN THE LONGUE DURÉE
VESTITI E MEMORIA NELLA LONGUE DURÉE
Panel C-1
Traditional costumes
Costumi tradizionali
CHAIRPERSON
ALESSANDRO VAGNINI
SILVANO MO CHENG
Imagery of Cathay – Chinese Costumes in the Eyes of Early European Missionaries
FODOR GEORGETA
The National Dimension of Fashion: Women’s Traditional Garment as a National Symbol in Romanian Society
ELENA DUMITRU
Greece. The Traditional Costumes that Made History
44
YEVA HAMBARCUMYAN The “National” Symbols of the Republic of Armenia
MARIAM CHKHARTISHVILI
SOPIO KADAGISHVILI
ZURAB TARGAMADZE
National Dress as an Expression of Authenticity in the Georgian Nationalistic Discourse
LAILA AL BASSAM The Art of the Traditional Costume of Saudi Arabia
SONYA BATTLA
The Fashion-Craft Dialogue: Bridging the Gap
LILIANA ŢUROIU The Romanian Traditional Blouse – IA - National Identity Passport
SHIRIN ZAKERI
Iranian Fashion Industry: Traditional Diversity and Modern Transformations
RUSLAN TLEPTSOK
EMILIA SHEUDZHEN
The Circassians – A Symbolic
Meaning of the Caucasus Mountains
45
May 20, 2015 AULA Senato Accademico
17.30-19.00
Session C
Panel C-2
Dressing your faith
Vestire la fede
CHAIRPERSON
FRANCESCO DANTE
RAFAŁ OJRZYŃSKI Il colore azzurro nelle vesti liturgiche medievali – realtà o fantasia? Un’analisi iconografica
UMBERTO LONGO
Il rapporto tra abbigliamento e identità religiosa per monaci ed eremiti nel Medioevo
ANTONIETTA DI VITO
Velare versus Contenere: L’Orientalismo attraverso l’abbigliamento femminile
ANTONELLO BATTAGLIA Casule e talari fra tradizione e innovazione
MARCO IERVESE
Il costume ecclesiastico e il Concilio Vaticano II
SHALOM D. HAZAN
Gli abiti dell’anima
46
May 20, 2015 Aula Museo Arte Contemporanea
17.30-19.00
Session C
Panel C-3
Towards Modernity
Verso la modernità
CHAIRPERSON
FABIO L. GRASSI
HADAS HIRSCH Dress and Colors in Early Islam: A Discourse on Adornment and Gender
SEMA YALÇIN
European Influences on Ottoman Bridal Gowns during the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries
ÍSMAIL YÜCE Traditional Dresses in the Edirne Region
ALBERTO BECHERELLI Bosnian Islam between Orientalism and Modernization
FRANCESCA DI GIULIO The Islamic Veil as a Part of Cultural and Fashionable New Identity?
IULIA ALEXANDRA
OPREA
Turkey’s Headscarf Issue Unveiled: Fashion, Politics and Religion
47
VOLODIA CLEMENTE From Traditional Attire to Modern Dress: Modes of Identification in the Balkans
49
May 21, 2015 AULA Organi Collegiali
10.00-13.30
Session D
SOCIOLOGY AND COMMUNICATION
SOCIOLOGIA E COMUNICAZIONE
Panel D-1
Fashion and Theory
Moda e Teoria
CHAIRPERSON
MARIA CRISTINA MARCHETTI
NELLO BARILE
Storia dello spreco. Moda, cultura e lusso come scontro tra forze democratiche ed elitarie
ROMANO BENINI La moda tra identità, storia ed economia
RITA CACCAMO Georg Simmel: moda versus arte
ANGELO ROMEO La moda proto-sociologica. Il contributo di Fausto Squillace
PATRIZIA CALEFATO La trans-disciplinarietà della Fashion theory: corpo rivestito e narrazioni di moda
50
ANNA MARIA CURCIO Christian Garve e Norbert Elias: due interpretazioni della moda e del costume
MARIA GIUSEPPINA MUZZARELLI
La moda e la storia: cinque temi
DAVIDE RUGGIERI Com’è possible la moda? Un’analisi relazionale della moda come forma della vita sociale
BIANCA TERRACCIANO
Il sistema-moda “contemporaneo”
VICTOR AQUINO
The Law of Fashion
EMANUELA FERRERI Quando la crisi è di moda. Etnicità, pauperismi ed ecologismi di valore
ISABELLA PEZZINI
La moda come “poema scientifico”: gli studi semiotici di Greimas e di Barthes
ROBERTA IANNONE Moda e modernità nel pensiero di Werner Sombrat
51
May 21, 2015 AULA Organi Collegiali
15.00-16.30
Session D
Panel D-2
Language, Media and Advertisements
Lingua, Media e Pubblicità
CHAIRPERSON
PATRIZIA CALEFATO
FABIANA GIACOMOTTI
From “Swell” to “Cool”. How and Why the Fashion Language Changed over the Last Century
PAOLA COLAIACOMO LUISA VALERIANI
Habits of Power in Televisual Format
LAURA MARIOTTINI
Politeness and Impoliteness in Fashion Advertisements in Spanish Language
PAOLA PANARESE
Slow motion: la rappresentazione dell’immagine femminile nella pubblicità italiana della moda
ROMANA ANDÒ
“I dress well”. Fandom Identification and Fashion through TV Series and Social Media: The Case of Claire Underwood’s Power Dressing
52
May 21, 2015 AULA Organi Collegiali
16.30-19.00
Session D
Panel D-3
New Communication Devices and Methods
Nuovi Strumenti e Metodi di Comunicazione
CHAIRPERSON
ANNA MARIA CURCIO
GIULIA ROSSI
Fashion Blogger, New dandy?
RUDI PAPA Communicating Fashion through Digital media. New Interactive Ways to Improve Creativity
CORNELIU CEZAR
SIGMIREAN
Personal Marketing or How We Grow our Personal Branding by Using Social Media
SATOMI SUGIYAMA
From a Smart Phone to a Wearable Device?: Exploring Images of Wearable ICTs in the Young People’s “Near Future” Everyday Life
53
ANA PAULA BARROSO
FARIA JOANA CUNHA BERNARDO PROVIDÊNCIA
Mobile User Experience: New Insights into Fashion Communication Strategies
LUISA SALVATI LUANA COSENZA
Creativity and Business: Made in Italy Localization
LEOPOLDINA FORTUNATI MANUELA FARINOSI YAO NIE
Exploring the Grass-Root Fashion Storytelling: An Analysis of the Online Conversations On/Against the Bloggers’ Style
VALENTINA UGHETTO
Il portale della Moda del Novecento per una ricerca negli archivi
JULIE RENÉE BRUHNS
A Theoretical Approach to Fashion Blogs
55
May 21, 2015 AULA Senato Accademico
10.00-13.30
Session E
ECONOMY AND FASHION BRANDS
Panel E-1
Economic History
Storia Economica
CHAIRPERSON ALESSANDRA VACCARI
MARTINE VILLELONGUE
L’exemple italien dans le textile de luxe français, les résurgences du modèle stylistique italien dans la mode contemporaine
GIOVANNA MOTTA Vestiti di carta e di porcellana. L’arte della manifattura e la fabbrica del lusso
CINZIA CAPALBO
La sartoria maschile italiana dall’Ottocento al secondo dopoguerra fra tradizione artigianale e innovazione
MANUELA SOLDI Prima della moda italiana. Artigianato tessile in Italia tra il 1861 e il 1911
56
MARIA TERESA
MORELLI
La sartoria maschile napoletana del Novecento e le influenze della moda inglese
VALERIA PINCHERA Dal prodotto al marchio, dematerilizzazione e contraffazione degli accessori di lusso
FRANCESCO PONGILUPPI
The Textile Sector in Italian-Turkish Relations: The Past and the Present
EKA LEKASHVILI LIA LURSMANASHVILI EKATERINE TUKHASHVILI
Silk Production in Georgia: History and Development Opportunities
EFRAT TSEËLON New Fashion World Order: The Impact of Globalisation on How We Buy Fashion
GIOVANNI LUIGI
FONTANA JOSÉ ANTONIO
MIRANDA
Design and Fashion as Determinants of Industrial Competitiveness: A Comparative study of the Evolution of the Footwear Industry in Italy and Spain
57
May 21, 2015
AULA Senato Accademico 15.00-16.00
Session E
Panel E-2
Protection of Intellectual Property
La tutela normativa del prodotto intellettuale
CHAIRPERSON ALESSANDRA VACCARI
ASTRID WIEDERSICH
AVENA
Copyright Law and Design Law Protection for Fashion Works: A Comparative Analysis
FIAMMETTA BORGIA
L’industria della moda nel contesto internazionale e nella normativa europea. Il tentativo di protezione del marchio
LUIGIA BERSANI
La moda nelle Convenzioni UNESCO e nelle norme sui diritti culturali: ambito e limiti della tutela internazionale
58
May 21, 2015
AULA Senato Accademico 16.00-19.00
Session E
Panel E-3
Made in Italy
CHAIRPERSON MATILDE MASTRANGELO
VIVIANA COIS
McFashion Made In Italy: Jeremy Scott’s Parody of High Fashion and Luxury Branding in a Fast Fashion Economy
MARIA ROBERTA DE
ROBERTIS Fashion System in Italia. Elio Fiorucci
MICHELA FASANELLA Rome: An Artisanal Approach to Fashion
ORNELLA CIRILLO ROBERTO LIBERTI
Napoli nella geografia del Made in Italy: storie e protagonisti
JULIA SINCHUK Italianskaya moda. Il successo della moda italiana in Russia
59
ALESSANDRA VACCARI
Learned in Italy: The Legacy of “Made in Italy” in the Early Twenty-First Century Fashion Industry
STEFANO PELAGGI
Italian Emigration and the Dress in the Americas from the End of the Nineteenth century to the Spread of Made in Italy
LUCIA SAVI Italian Fashion in the Page of British Vogue 1945-1955
LAURA DIMITRIO Italian Fashion and Japan in the 1970s
60
May 21, 2015 AULA C
10.00-13.00
Session E Panel E-4
Details
Accessori
CHAIRPERSON
ALBERTO BECHERELLI
ANNA WYSZYŃSKA The Curious Case of the Golden Coif. Is it Proper for the Polish King?
LJILJANA STOŠIĆ
Symbolism of Stripes through History
BARBARA BETTONI
Alle origini dei bottoni made in Italy. Moda e innovazione nella manifattura italiana di accessori per l’allacciatura dell’abito dal tardo Medioevo e oggi
SALVATORE SANTANGELO L’orologio da oggetto di lusso a strumento militare
GIOVANNI C. CATTINI CARLES SANTACANA
Fashion and Political Identities. The Symbolism of Hats and Berets in Contemporary Spain
ROBERTA MONTAGNA Non è una semplice borsa. È “la Kelly”
61
May 21, 2015 AULA 3.0
10.00-11.30
Session F FASHION SCHOOL AND MAISON
SCUOLE DI MODA E MAISON Panel F-1
Marangoni Institute Fashion and Design
Istituto Marangoni Moda e Design
CHAIRPERSON
SIMONA IRONICO
SIMONA IRONICO
Unveiling Fashion Tales: A Socio-semiotic Interpretative Framework for Investigating Fashion Collections
MARCO SEMEGHINI Analyzing Fall Winter 2015-16 Ready to Wear Trends: The Perspective of Fashion Design and Merchandising
VIRGINIA HILL Interpreting Spring Summer 2015 Haute Couture: The Perspective of History of Fashion
SABRINA POMODORO
Menswear and Womenswear Fashion Tales: Spring Summer 2015 ready to Wear Integrated Communication Strategies
62
PAOLO MERONI Fashion Ethics: A New World Focused on Dignity and Responsibility
May 21, 2015 AULA 3.0
11.30-13.30
Session F Panel F-2
Accademia Del Lusso
CHAIRPERSON SIMONA RANALDI
SIMONA RANALDI
Case analysis del marchio “Sophie Charlotte”: fasi e procedure del pronto moda
PAOLO MARCOALDI
La pelle che abito. Corrispondenze e contaminazioni tra moda e architettura alla fine dell’800
CHIARA
MASTROMONACO
Case analysis del metodo lavorativo e dell’insegnamento “Visual e Retail”
JUSTYNA PAWLOWSKA Fashion Forecasting e Coolhunting Case analysis del lavoro free lance e dell’insegnamento “Trends - Cool hunting”
63
May 21, 2015 AULA 3.0
15.00-18.00
Session F Panel F-3
Maisons de Mode
Case di moda
CHAIRPERSON
CATERINA BASSETTI
VALERIA NOFRI
Estetica del kitsch. Da Versace a Prada
LUCIA BOSCAINI
Bulgari: Sharing the Brand Heritage
FABIO L. GRASSI The Burden of Memory. The Emergence of the Past in the Art of Chalayan
FRANCESCA R. LENZI La globalizzazione del vestire nella postmodernità e il caso Inditex (Zara)
DOMENICO PELLERITO “Not a step without Baťa”: From Zlín to the world
EMMA GAGO SÁNCHEZ Maisons spagnole da Balenciaga a Galerias Preciados
64
May 21, 2015 AULA 3.0
18.00-19.00
Session F Panel F-4
Fashion and Politics
Moda e Politica
CHAIRPERSON
CATERINA BASSETTI
GABRIELE NATALIZIA
PIERO DE LUCA
Geopolitica del Made in Italy
VERONICA DE SANCTIS Dai Kennedy agli Obama. Stile e potere nelle coppie presidenziali americane
DANIEL POMMIER
VINCELLI
L’organizzazione del consenso nel fascismo e nel nazismo
65
May 21, 2015 Museo Laboratorio d’Arte Contemporanea
10.00-13.00
Session G Textiles and Production Techniques
Tessuti e tecniche di produzione
CHAIRPERSON DANIEL POMMIER VINCELLI
ETHEL LOTTO
La scienza della moda. Le tecniche sartoriali nel progetto di moda in Italia
PAOLA MADDALUNO
Nuove categorie del textile design
MARTINA MUSARRA FABRIZIO D’ASCENZO GIULIANA VINCI
Green Innovation in Textile Sector: The Bamboo
JULIA SABOVA One Step Forward Means Two Steps Backward
SERNA UÇAR
A Haute-Tech Design Project: Utopia
CHIARA LANDI Technological Expression in New Fashion: 3D Printers
67
May 21, 2015 Museo Laboratorio d’Arte Contemporanea
15.00-17.00
Session H FASHION AND GENDER HISTORY
MODA E STORIA DI GENERE Panel H-1
Fashion and Gender
Moda e Genere
CHAIRPERSON
ELENA DUNDOVICH
PETYA ANDREEVA
Voices of Tradition and Whispers of Change: Redefining Edo Female Identity through “Iki” Aesthetics in Undergarment Textiles
MILICA CICMIL Female Costume in Eighteenth-Century Rome
LAURA CASAL-VALLS
The Evolution of Fashion Production as Part of Social History: The Impact on the Nineteenth Century Women in Catalonia
MARTINA BITUNJAC The Cultural History of Female Trousers in the Orient and Occident
RÉKA SZENTESI Fashionising the Woman Body: The Corseted Woman Body as Representative of the Social Status
68
BEN BARRY KIMBERLY WAHL
New Visibilities: Public Spectacle, Fashion and Gender in Nineteenth-Century Print Culture and Twenty-First Century Digital Space
VILLA VILAITHONG Thai Fabrics, Fashion and Femininity in 1960s Thailand
May 21, 2015 Museo Laboratorio d’Arte Contemporanea
17.00-19.00
Session H Panel H-2
Gender and Power
Genere e potere
CHAIRPERSON
ELENA DUNDOVICH
MARIA CRISTINA
GIORCELLI
Clothes and Women’s Emancipation
CORINA ELENA HATEGAN Women as a Social Model During Romanian Communism
CHLOE CHAPIN The Swallow Flies Only By Night: The Uniform of Male Formalwear
69
MARIA CRISTINA
MARCHETTI
Power dressing: donne e potere
FEDERICA MARIA
MARRELLA
L’iconografia della donna nella fotografia di moda contemporanea. Aby Warburg, Media, Erving Goffman e società contemporanea
FEDERICA PERAZZINI Blurring the Line: Fashion and Masculinity from the Great Renounciation to the Metro-Sexual
ELEONORA CHIAIS
From Marylin to Kate.Toward a Semiotic History of Body Representation
71
May 21, 2015 AULA C
15.00-16.30
Session M LITERATURE, ART, PERFORMANCE LETTERATURA, ARTE, SPETTACOLO
Panel M-1 Literature
CHAIRPERSON
ANDREA CARTENY
ANTONELLA DI SPALATRO
Identità e moda nel romanzo francese del XIX secolo
ROBERTO VALLE
Libertà segreta e libertà illimitata: dandismo, byronismo e nichilismo nel pensiero politico russo
BENEDETTA DEL
ROMANO
American Bodies: Nudity and Otherness in the Work of Claude d’Abbeville and Yves d’Evreux
SERGIO BOTTA La maschera post coloniale del Calibano
72
May 21, 2015 AULA C
16.30-17.30
Session M Panel M-2
Art
CHAIRPERSON
GIUSEPPE MOTTA
LUZ NEIRA
The Style History: An Inner Approach
MATINA KOUSIDI The Knot Krause. Revisiting the Weaving Workshop through an Italian-Born Artist
MANRICA ROTILI Pop Art e Moda. Un rapporto simbiotico
VIVIAN YOSHIE MARTINS
MORIZONO
The Tropical Belle Époque’s Fashion in the Social Articles by João do Rio
73
May 21, 2015 AULA C
17.30-19.00
Session M Panel M-3
Performance
CHAIRPERSON
ANDREA CARTENY, GIUSEPPE MOTTA
ANIDA SOKOL
The Costumes of the Elizabethan Theatre between Fashion and Cross-Dressing
RAFFAELE RIVIECCIO Tiber Boulevard. Hollywood sul Tevere
LORENZA FRUCI Estetica e comunicazione: il boom del burlesque e la sua influenza sull’estetica e la moda
BRUNA NICCOLI The Art of Costume. Italian Creativity for Theatre and Film
75
FINAL REMARKS
May 21, 2014 Aula Organi Collegiali
(Rectorate Building – ground floor) 19.00
Giovanna Motta Alessandro Saggioro