1. 1. Scenic Elements Motorisation
2. 2. Objectives To have a general understanding of how all the components work to make the props move, and to have a better understanding of how best to operate the props.
3. 3. Subjects Piff Paff Buttons Piff Paff Reed Switches E-Stops Control Card Potentiometer Inverter Motor & Drive Assembly Batteries Battery Chargers Taking Props OFF Charge Driving Advice Putting Props ON Charge
4. 4. Piff Paff - Button Assembly Green Buttons - Drive (Spring Loaded) Red Button - E-Stop (O-Ring but No Springs) Button Base Houses Magnets (Sealed with an O-ring) Magnet is Small and Cylindrical MYTHs 1. Rotating the button does not make the prop drive better. 2. The E-Stop is NOT a BRAKE ! 3. E-Stop cannot come up on its own IMPORTANT 1. E-Stop should be completely pushed/pulled. All the Way IN or all the Way OUT. 2. If there are two Piff Paff controls, both E-Stops should be engaged in order to avoid uncontrolled movement. 3. Drive Buttons should be pushed straight in.
5. 5. Correct Wrong The Point is to make sure that the button is pushed evenly down. To ensure the magnet is as close to the reed switch as possible. An example of this was found on the Bridge
6. 6. Reed Switches Reed Switches are Wired as Normally Open (Off) or Normally Closed (On). E-Stop is wired as Normally Closed (On). When the E-Stop is Engaged (Pushed In), the Circuit is Broken, and the Electrics are Shut Down Drive Buttons are wired as Normally Closed (Off) until the button is Engaged and the circuit is made. The control card reads which circuit is Closed and instructs the inverter to provide power to the motor dependant on which circuit it is, either Forward Fast/Slow or Backwards Fast/Slow Old Style Very Fragile Breaks Easily No Longer in Use New Style More Robust
7. 7. Reed Switches Although the new style (Encapsulated) reed switches are more robust, it is still very important to avoid banging on the Piff Paff. The buttons including the E-Stop simply need to be pushed by applying pressure. NOT by hammering or banging. When new reed switches are installed, the position is tested repeatedly before applying a glue to hold them in position. If the button is pushed unevenly and off centre, the magnet could be taken just out of range for it to have an Effect on the Reed Switch. Not all magnets or buttons sit in an EXACT same position as the others. This is why we test each assembly repeatedly before signing off. This is not an exact Science, so we TEST, TEST and TEST ! There is no electronics/brains in a Piff Paff. It is simply a box with a few sensitive ON / OFF switches.
8. 8. E-Stops The E-Stop works by opening the circuit and cutting the power to the electronics. NOTE : The E-Stop is not a BRAKE, and so the prop may continue to move a few centimetres due to momentum. Reed Switches can and do FAIL ! There is NO WAY to predict WHEN ! IMPORTANT Engage ALL available E-Stops when the prop is left unattended. Example: NE Russian Swing had a failed switch. Off-Stage Fast. The E-Stop was the only thing stopping the Prop from moving. If only One E-Stop had been Engaged and that Switch also Failed, a number of possible Scenarios and Damage could have been caused.
9. 9. Control Card Piff Paffs and Inverter are connected Receives signal from Piff Paffs Sends instructions to the inverter Slow speed is adjusted through the use of a potentiometer Fast speed is maximum, and cannot be adjusted. Has a green indicator light to show activity
10. 10. Control Card - Green Light The Green Indicator Light shows the status of the card. When E-Stops are Dis-Engaged, power is provided to the control card and inverter. The green indicator light will start to blink. This blinking indicates the card and chip are starting up. When the blinking has ceased the card is then ready to receive a signal from the Piff Paffs. The time this takes may vary between some of the props. At most, this is approximately 5 seconds. Whilst this indicator light is blinking, pushing a drive button will have no effect. If you happen to push and release a drive button just as the system goes into READY mode the prop may move unexpectedly, this is because for a split second the card will have received a signal from the Piff Paffs. Movie
11. 11. Potentiometer The Slow Speed is a percentage of the full speed. Adjusting the potentiometer will adjust the percentage of the slow speed. A small movement can make a big change. There is no indicator to know what this percentage is. Dry Testing is all we can do. When working inside the prop electrical boxes, be careful to not accidentally move this dial.
12. 12. Inverter Is the Power House Converts the 24V DC Battery Voltage to a 3 Phase Output for the Motor. Receives instruction from control card and supplies power to the motor depending on the instructions received. Forward Fast/Slow or Reverse Fast/Slow. Also stores information regarding running hours and history of 5 previous Error Codes IMPORTANT When driving a prop back and forth repeatedly without allowing the inverter time to cool, it will overheat and will not operate to prevent damage. Alarm Code AL61 Indicates High Temperature. Engage E- Stops and allow 5-10 minutes for cooling. Drive the prop to a safe place, and allow ample time for cooling.
13. 13. Inverter - MDI Display Displays messages provided by the inverter in the form off. Battery Status Run Time Maintenance Required / Alarm Alarm Indicator and Code Alarm Codes are Prefixed with AL and then a number. The wrench symbol should also be displayed along with a flashing red light. To my Knowledge, these settings have never been changed and so should be accurate
14. 14. Motor & Gearbox Motor is 3 Phase, 3KW, 17V which maxs at 1500 RPM Power is Provided by the Inverter Gearbox has a Worm Drive which spins a toothed wheel connected to a hollow axle Gearbox has a maximum Torque of 830 Nm Its HEAVY !
15. 15. Batteries 2x 12v 200Ah/10HR Batteries Are Wired in Series to give an output of 24v 200Ah/10HR They are Very HEAVY ! DANGER ! DO NOT drop the charging end base into the water. DO NOT short the Battery Terminals This will short the batteries and could cause a fire/explosion hazard.
16. 16. Battery Chargers High frequency chargers Has an external display Has an indicator displaying charger status Yellow Solid - Initial Charging Yellow Flashing - Charging Phase Green Flashing - Conservation (Trickle) Green Solid - End of Charge Red Flashing - Alarm Display during initial power up will first show the battery voltage before starting to charge Display during charging shows the supplied voltage to the batteries Display once charging is complete shows the Battery Voltage IMPORTANT If the Displayed Voltage is Less than 24v and shows Solid Green Full Charge, please inform Aquatics Day Crew. Charging Full Charge
17. 17. Taking Props OFF Charge - Dry 1. Turn chargers Off 2. Wait for charger display to power down 3. Disconnect charging cable from charging hose 4. Check O-Ring condition in charging cap base 5. Check condition of charging cap and base 6. Securely fasten the charging cap to the base ensuring that wires or the O-Ring are not pinched. DO NOT hold the hose when doing this. Hold the base and the cap only. 7. Remove charging hose from wall bracket 8. Place charging cap on the outside of the small step surrounding the pool edge. DO NOT place in the water until the electrical compartment of the prop has been pressurised. BAD GOOD
18. 18. Taking Props OFF Charge - Wet Open Valve on Pressure Regulator Check Electrical Box Gauge for Pressure. Is there Pressure ? NoYes Ascend and Check Charging Cap for Leaks Check Gauge on Buffer Tank. Is there Pressure ? Yes No Ensure Prop Air Line is Connected Properly. Did this Solve the Problem ? No Look for Noticeable Leaks and Inform your Superior or Contact Day Crew Leave Charging Cap in the Water Descend and pull down the Charging Cap. Coil the hose into the storage box. Be careful not to snag the Charging Cap on any Obstructions. DO NOT YANK on the Hose. Check Charging Cap for Leaks One More Time before swimming away. YesCheck Electrical Box Gauge for Pressure. Is there Pressure ? No Yes
19. 19. Driving Advice 1. Always drive from the side of intended travel direction* (You dont drive a car from the back seat) 2. Ensure the prop is ready to be driven. i.e. Russian Swings raised, air lines disconnected, path and tracks clear 3. Once the final E-Stop has been Dis- Engaged, Wait 5 seconds for the Control Card to power up. Keep hand over E-Stop in case of uncontrolled movement 4. Always start with the slow speed button before moving to the fast speed button * Except when necessary i.e. Testing, Fault Finding, Small Adjustments etc.. 5. Remember to allow for momentum when planning on stopping 6. Make small adjustments using only the slow button 7. When moves are complete, remember to engage all E-Stops 8. Remember not to let the inverter overheat. Have a break in between driving sessions. 9. Whilst submerged, try to avoid leaving the prop without a supply of gas for extended periods.
20. 20. Put Props ON Charge - Wet 1. Ensure prop air line is connected 2. Check for any noticeable leaks 3. Shut OFF the regulator ball valve 4. Take the charging hose end to the surface and place out of the water 5. Ensure the hose is not wrapped around any obstacles OPEN CLOSED
21. 21. 1. Secure hose into wall mounted clamp 2. Use the correct tools and remember Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey" 3. Without holding onto the charging hose, unscrew the charging cap from the charging cap base until you hear a steady flow of gas venting 4. Be Patient ! It will take a few minutes for the pressure to completely drain 5. Do Not unscrew the cap fully until all the pressure has been released. Doing this does cause damage to the threads 6. If the pressure takes longer than 10 minutes to vent, check that the valve on the prop regulator has been Closed 7. If the valve is Closed and still takes longer than 10 minutes, inform your superior and/or inform day crew 8. When cap is removed, connect the charging lead 9. Turn On the power to the battery charger and watch the display 10.After ensuring the charger is charging, you may walk away. If it does not go into charging mode, inform your superior and/or day crew Put Props ON Charge - DRY
22. 22. QUESTIONS
23. 23. Help Us When issues arise, please come to us with more information than just it does not work, it does not drive, it drives slow or its driving on its own. The Clues are in the Details Do the Electrics power up? What is the Voltage? Does the Green Light on the control card turn on when the drive buttons are pushed? Can you hear the motor running when a drive button is pushed? Are the wheels & tracks clear? Is there an Alarm Code displayed? Do any of the drive buttons make the prop move? Do the drive wheels slip? Does the prop drive the same whether it is on stage or off stage?
24. 24. Decisions Is it a Piff Paff issue? Do we need to open the box? If so, how long do we have? To open 15min Fault Find ???? To Repair / Replace ???? To close 20 min To Pressurise 5 min Leak Test Underwater 5 min The more accurate the information is, the Quicker we might be able to Solve We need at least 2 hours if the decision is made to open the box One Piff Paff can be replaced in 20 minutes