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QUALITY INSPECTIONS

Requirements & Procedures

2011/2012

Bon-Ton Requirements and Procedures Bon-Ton Incorporated Quality Assurance

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. Policy Statement Pg.3

2. Introduction Pg. 4

3. Packaging Standard Pg. 4

4. General Inspection Procedure Pg. 5

5. Standard Inspection Package SIP Pg. 6

6. Scheduling Pg. 6

7. Completion of Inspection Pg. 6

8. Inspection Disposition Pg. 7

9. Inspection Charge and invoice Pg. 7

10. Best Practices Production Pg. 8-9

11. Garment Inspection Procedure Pg. 10-19

12. Appendix A—Critical Measurements Pg. 20-21

13. Appendix B—Classification of Defects Pg. 22-34

14. Forms Pg. 35-41


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POLICY STATEMENT

A. This program is based on the mandate that merchandise purchased by The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. (Bon-Ton) must be inspected to meet product specifications, all applicable laws and regulatory requirements.

B. UL-STR has been designated to conduct Bon-Ton quality inspections for all required third party product inspections (at Bon-Ton’s discretion) prior to shipment. The cost of these inspections are the responsibility of the vendor and/or factory.

C. Vendor or factory inspections are not a substitution for this requirement.

D. The third party inspection does not limit Bon-Ton’s rights or diminish or remove vendor or manufacturers' responsibility and obligations under the Purchase Order Terms and Conditions.


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INTRODUCTION

The Bon-Ton organization is totally committed to providing our customers with only the highest quality merchandise available to meet the lifestyle requirements of the middle and upper income families in today's competitive market place.

This program is designed to ensure a uniform understanding and implementation of Bon-Ton inspection requirements and procedures.

Although we have tried to clearly define our requirements, if you have specific questions, please direct them to both parties below:

Laura Whelan Client Services Manager UL-STR/ Bon-Ton 310 West Wisconsin Ave. 10th floor west Milwaukee, WI 53203 Phone: 414-347-1152 ext 3694 Fax: 414-347-5278 E-mail: [email protected]

1. PACKAGING STANDARD Please refer to the "Merchandise Logistics Standards" for more information http://logistics.bonton.com/pdfs/2008MerchandiseLogisticalStandards.pdf There is virtually zero tolerance allowed for packing discrepancies during inspection of Bon-Ton’s merchandise.

The following packing discrepancies are unacceptable and would deem an inspection as “failing ” Incorrect Hang Tag/Price Tag Incorrect information on Hang Tag/Price Tag Missing Hang Tag/Price Tag Damaged Hang Tag/Price Tag Altered Hang Tag/Price Tag Incorrect style/color/ratio in carton Incorrect packaging – flat pack/hanger pack Unreadable or Missing UCC128 label on carton Wrong size carton

https://host11.strus.com/exchweb/bin/redir.asp?URL=http://logistics.bonton.com/pdfs/2008MerchandiseLogisticalStandards.pdf


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2. GENERAL INSPECTION PROCEDURES Initial Contact:

For third party inspection programs the initial request for an inspection must be directed by Bon-Ton Product Development staff to the QA Department by submitting a “Domestic Vendor Notification Form” (DVNF—see page 35).

The notification should provide the following information:

Who: (vendor, factory) What: (description of product, style, and etc., along with the product specifications or inspection criteria and approved reference sample) Where: (inspection location, factory or warehouse name, address, contact name, phone number, etc.) When: (when inspection required, scheduled ship date) How many: (total quantity of product)

The QA Department will initiate a final inspection by forwarding the DVNF to the designated third party inspection service when received from Product Development.

Please keep in mind that UL-STR will need 10 calendar days advance notice to arrange a final inspection. Waiting until the week of the vendor required ship date is too late.

Note 1: Any consideration for waiving the third party inspection requirements must be approved by the Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. QA Department.

Note 2: If a style has multiple deliveries within a season, or is a replenishment style, it will need to be re-inspected every 4 months assuming the initial inspection passed.


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3. Standard Inspection Package (SIP)

To ensure the best performance of the inspection and obtain the most reliable result, a Standard Inspection Package (SIP) Must be supplied by the factory. The SIP includes, but is not limited to the following items: ■ 2 Preproduction samples or TOP samples ■ An 8 x 8 inch fabric swatch for each approved color/print ■ Bon-Ton approved wash shades should be provided (i.e. denim Pigment dye, etc.) ■ Size specifications ■ Sketches, photos, or drawing of the products. ■ Approved actual accessories, hang tags and labels ■ Assortment sheet indicating style number, quantity, delivery and color

assortment. ■ Packing instructions ■ Any other information the factory deems important to the inspection

All items contained in the SIP must be duplicates of what has been approved by Bon-Ton.

4. Scheduling

The vendor is responsible to contact UL-STR a minimum of 10 calendar days prior to x-factory date.

5. Completion of Inspection

The third party inspection service will issue an inspection report to the Bon-Ton QA Department and the vendor/factory within 24 hours of receipt of the inspector's detailed report of the inspection. However, all inspections will require a sign off by either Bill Grange or Laura Whelan before shipping. The inspector’s field report will include, but is not limited to, the following information:

■ Vendor name ■ Style number ■ Product description ■ Inspection location ■ Visual inspection defective units found summary ■ Measurement audit summary and detail data sheet ■ Carton inspection detail General conformity in regards to style, material, color, labeling, pre-packing size scale, shipping marks.


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6. INSPECTION DISPOSITIONS

If the result of the inspection passes the AQL adopted by the Bon-Ton QA Department, The final typed report and disposition will be emailed within 48 hours to the vendor so that the shipment can be released.

If there is a failing or doubtful result, the shipment will be rejected. UL-STR will notify the Bon-Ton QA Department immediately. A disposition will be communicated to the vendor and internally.

The Bon-Ton QA Department will review the inspection report findings and determine the severity of deficiencies found with the appropriate Bon-Ton merchandising staff. If deficiencies found are considered to be commercially acceptable, the QA Department will release the final report with comments and acceptability.

In cases where inspection results are deemed to be a concern and would result in unacceptable quality to be shipped to our stores, the Bon-Ton QA Department will meet with the appropriate merchandising staff to determine final disposition and communicate action steps to the factory/vendor accordingly.

7. INSPECTION CHARGE AND INVOICING

Bon-Ton has negotiated favorable rates with UL-STR on behalf of our vendors and factories.

UL-STR will bill the vendors directly for the cost of inspections.

If merchandise is not ready for inspection on the date specified by the vendor and/or factory, or the inspectors are denied access to the facility, the vendor will be charged inspection cancellation charges, including any travel expenses incurred by UL-STR.

Price list is available upon request through Laura Whelan

([email protected])


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Best Practices Production / Inspection Procedures

STORAGE • Fabric rolls need to be tagged with relevant information / identification. • Dye lots need to be separated. • All fabrics must be above ground level to avoid contamination. • Proper shelving racks are critical to maintaining good inventory control. • Trims must also be properly separated and stored.

FABRIC INSPECTION • Fabric rolls need to be tagged with relevant information / identification. • The 4-point grading system should be employed by all mills and

factories. The vendor must ensure consistent application across their entire factory base.

• Fabric inspectors within the factory require proper training. • Fabric inspectors must cut swatches from the beginning of the roll

and match the color shade to the middle and end of the roll. • Fabric inspectors must build their own library of defects. • Fabric inspectors must generate detailed reports to help factory

management communicate effectively with the mills/factory production to resolve various problems.

SPREADING & CUTTING • Factories must select qualified employees to spread the fabric as

this is a critical activity. • Factory must be spread properly (to grain, not wavy, on line, correct

nap direction, relaxed, etc.) • Fabric cutters must be properly trained on correct cutting procedures. • Fabrics must be cut in the same direction to ensure consistency. • Proper clamps and pins must be used to hold down the fabric

layers. This will avoid fabric shifting within the pile. • Cutting rooms must have adequate lighting. This enables the cutters

and spreaders to quickly identify shading and other fabric defects. • Cutting rooms must be kept clean to provide safer work

environment and to avoid contamination on finished product.


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CUTTING INSPECTION • Cutting inspectors must be properly trained to ensure the matching of all cut parts as

well as ensuring color consistency. • Cutting inspection forms must be standardized from one factory to another. • Cutting problems must be reported to the sewing / production supervisor to ensure the

necessary corrections are made.

SEWING LINES • In-line inspection procedures must be implemented to check collars, cuffs, necks, lap

seams and placket assembly. This will ensure correct topstitching, symmetry, matching of shoulder seams at collar, correct lap seams and proper matching of stripes and plaids.

• Factories must position inspection stations within the sewing lines for checking major parts and assemblies.

• Critical parts and / or assemblies must be 100% checked instead of randomly audited. This will result in defective parts being identified.

• One operator and one inspector must be utilized for checking critical parts that have potential safety hazards, i.e. snaps on children’s garments.

• Pre-production meetings must be held with the factory and critical inspection checkpoints must be established.

• Factories must avoid sewing dark color garments in the same sewing line with light color garments to avoid contamination.

FINISHING LINE • Finishing line operators must be properly trained to handle pressing equipment. This

includes using the correct temperature based upon the fabric in question and avoiding heavy pressing that results in shiny appearance.

• Packaging area must be organized and properly supervised. This is a critical inspection checkpoint, as Bon-Ton has zero tolerance on packaging discrepancies.

• Supervisors must ensure that the correct hangtags, price tickets, etc. are provided to the proper production packing stations to avoid any possibility of mislabeling. Worktables should be cleared of all merchandise, tags / tickets (that are not applicable) prior to starting another size / color or style.


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The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. GARMENT INSPECTION PROCEDURES

1.0 PURPOSE

1.1 To describe the standard procedures for garment inspections for Bon-Ton .

2.0 APPLICATION

2.1 Applies to all garment inspections conducted for Bon-Ton .

3.0 PRE-INSPECTION

3.1 Bon-Ton will provide to UL-STR, authorization to conduct specific inspections by sending to UL-STR

either (1) a listing of production orders (PO’s)/styles/SKU’s to inspect, (2) a specific inspection request form, or (3) other appropriate written authorization.

3.1.1 Bon-Ton will indicate, on the garment inspection request form, changes to the inspection

procedure, which apply to a particular inspection assignment. This will be done by writing

“EXCEPTION” in the comments section of the inspection request form, and identifying the specific change and/or instruction.

3.1.2 The inspection request will specify the types of inspections (in-line, final) to be conducted

for a particular production order or shipment.

3.2 Bon-Ton will provide to UL-STR, a defect criteria list to be used by the inspector during the

inspection.

3.3 Bon-Ton will provide to UL-STR, measurement specifications with points of measurement, tolerances, a how to measure guide and any technical information associated with the construction,

trims, labeling, ticketing, packing, etc. of the item/s being inspected.

3.4 Bon-Ton will provide to UL-STR approval samples for the inspector/s to use as reference for

style/construction/color/etc.

3.4.1 If/when approval samples are sent directly to the factory, the UL-STR Regional Coordinator will confirm with the factory, prior to the date of the inspection, that the approval sample

package has been received and who will give it to the inspector.

4.0 CONFIRMATION

4.1 The UL-STR Regional Coordination Center must provide confirmation of receipt of inspection

information, inspection dates, and all related inspection processes, via e-mail or fax, to UL-STR

and BON-TON .


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5.0 SCHEDULING

5.1 Scheduling of in-line and final inspections must be consistent with logic and reasonable production capabilities. Thus, a final inspection must not be scheduled nor conducted the day following the

in-line inspection unless the total production quantity is so small it is reasonable that an in-line inspection can be conducted one day and then a full final inspection of completed product can be

conducted the next day.

5.2 The factory will supply to the UL-STR Regional Coordination Center, the production status including

PO, style, and quantities available. The factory will schedule the in-line and final inspection dates based on this information. Note, UL-STR will coordinate the inspection scheduling with the factory,

but the authorization/request to conduct the inspection shall come from Bon-Ton.

5.3 The UL-STR Regional Coordination Center and factory agree on an inspection date.

5.4 UL-STR Regional Coordination Center assigns the inspection to an UL-STR inspector who conducts

the

inspection according to the requirements set by Bon-Ton and communicated to UL-STR.

5.4 UL-STR will not accept instructions nor modifications to the Bon-Ton /UL-STR procedures without written authorization from the Bon-Ton .

6.0 IN-LINE INSPECTION ( Only when required by BON-TON)

6.1 The following in-line inspection procedures are to be used in conjunction with the final inspection procedures outlined in Section 7.0 below when specifically requested by Bon-Ton.

6.2 The purpose of an in-line inspection is to help a new factory, the vendor and the Bon-Ton to

identify potential problems early enough in the manufacturing process that they can be fixed and

the quality of the product improved.

6.3 The in-line inspection shall be conducted on finished garments when the production stage is at least 20% complete and have been through the factory’s own QC. Garments are not required to

be packed.

6.4 Results of this inspection are discussed, in detail, with the factory management so that the factory

can develop, and present to Bon-Ton, corrective action / preventative action plans that address any deficiencies found. Note: The UL-STR inspector cannot give opinion or advice regarding how to

correct defects.

7.0 FINAL INSPECTION

7.1 The final inspection shall be conducted on finished garments when the production stage is 100%

complete. Garments are required to be at least 80% packed and sealed, unless otherwise noted by Bon-Ton.


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7.2 UL-STR will inspect each Bon-Ton style individually and treat each as an individual lot for random

statistical sampling purposes. However, each style (lot) can include various colors and size ranges and also multiple shipping destinations. These will be combined within one report.

7.3 The inspections are to be conducted in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4-2008, Normal Inspection,

General Level II. The AQL is 0 for Critical defects, 2.5 for Major defects—including critical

measurement points that are out of tolerance, and 4.0 for Minor defects—including non-critical measurement points that are out of tolerance. This requirement may only be changed, in writing,

from Bon-Ton to UL-STR, and the written instruction must specify the orders where the change will be applied.

Lot or Batch Size Sample Size 2.5

Major 2.5 AC / RE

Sample Size 4.0

Minor 4.0 AC / RE

26 to 50 5 0 / 1 13 1 / 2

51 to 90 20 1 / 2 13 1 / 2

91 to 150 20 1 / 2 20 2 / 3

151 to 280 32 2 / 3 32 3 / 4

281 to 500 50 3 / 4 50 5 / 6

501 to 1200 80 5 / 6 80 7 / 8

1201 to 3200 125 7 / 8 125 10 / 11

3201 to 10,000 200 10 / 11 200 14 / 15

10,001 to 35,000 315 14 / 15 315 21 / 22

35,001 to 150,000 500 21 / 22 315 21 / 22

150,001 to 500,000 500 21/ 22 315 21 / 22

500,001 and over 500 21 / 22 315 21 / 22

7.3.1 Examples for sampling:

7.3.1.1 Inspection of the sampled garments is explained as follows: Based on

experience, a plain, simple garment such as a tee shirt or a skirt, without special trims or decorations, will take a minimum of 2 minutes to inspect.

Inspecting a 200 piece sampling using 2 minutes per garment will incorporate but is not limited to the quality check, measurements, color matching and

recording of discrepancies.

Based on the above information, 200 garments x 2 minutes each = 400 minutes / 60 minutes per hour = 7 hours.

The remaining time will consist of inspection set-up, sample selection, reporting and communications with factory representatives.

7.3.1.2 Items sold as a set (2 pc set, 3 pc set) must be viewed as individual items.

Each item within the set requires it’s own inspection and therefore increases

the sampling. For example, a sampling of 200 pieces, for a 2 piece set, will be viewed as a 400 piece sampling and will require 2 man days (in most cases) to

complete.


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7.3.1.3 More complex garments such as coats, dresses, tailored garments, etc. will require additional inspection time. Therefore, the number of man day’s

required to complete a 200 piece sampling is be subject to increase to more than one man day.

7.3.1.4 Vendor’s / Factory’s must allow adequate timing when scheduling inspections

to allow for proper sampling and inspecting to be performed.

7.3.2 Critical Defect: Any defect or feature of the product that may pose a safety hazard to the

customer or end user. Zero tolerance will be applied to the acceptable quantity of critical defects found within a shipment. A critical defect will automatically render the inspection

as rejected.

7.3.3 Major Defect: Anything that adversely affects the appearance, performance including fit or

customer satisfaction, to a degree that would provide a discerning customer with justification of non-purchase, a return, or complaint.

7.3.3 Minor Defect: Any variation from the standard that is not sufficient in degree to be classified as major, and that would not provide a discerning customer with justification for

non-purchase, a return, or complaint.

7.4 The inspector shall observe the inspection location. No inspection shall take place without

adequate lighting. If the inspector feels the lighting is not sufficient, first request better

accommodations. If none are available, the inspection shall proceed as scheduled, however, a comment shall be written on page one of the report stating that the inspection was conducted

under less than optimum lighting. If the lighting is very bad so that it prohibits vision, then the report shall be marked as not ready.

7.5 Before starting the final inspection, the UL-STR inspector must receive a full and complete inventory

list of all carton numbers in the shipment that are complete and ready for inspection. A copy of this carton inventory shall be attached to the inspection report. Only cartons shown on the carton

inventory are to be inspected. The inspector shall perform the random sampling from only the cartons shown on the carton inventory.

7.5.1 The inspector shall record in the comments section on the report, the identification numbers of the cartons that are randomly selected for inspection.

7.5.2 If a carton inventory list is not available, the inspector must select a good random

sample. Cartons must be chosen randomly from all available cartons, not just cartons that

are conveniently accessible.

7.5.3 The inspector shall stamp each inspected carton with their individual UL-STR chop. Each carton must be chopped on all four sides.


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7.6 Unless arriving much earlier than scheduled, an inspector should never wait more than 2 hours for any inspection. If after waiting 2 hours, if the goods are not ready for inspection, the inspection

must be rendered Not Ready. The factory will be required to reschedule the inspection.

7.7 Garments must be inspected for workmanship and construction defects.

7.7.1 Inspectors must thoroughly check seams for stitching defects including pocket pouches,

plackets should be even side to side, inseam lengths must be even at snap areas. Garments must fully be turned inside out and seams and stitching must be checked

thoroughly for broken/missed stitches, sloppy stitching, notched fabric under stitching and

any other fabric or stitching defects that could be found on the outside of a garment.

7.7.2 Inspector shall pull on buttons, snaps, etc. to make certain they are securely attached (see critical defects).

7.7.3 Buttons, snaps, zippers, Velcro, etc. must be checked by the inspector to verify they work/function properly.

7.7.3.1 Inspectors must pay careful attention to zipper function and determine if the

zipper "stop" device functions correctly. This process must be conducted by both of the following 2 methods. 1) With the zipper "teeth" not connected

and with the two front panels of the garment in the open/separated/not

connected position - pull the zipper head to the upper most position and then to the lower most position and determine if the zipper head is stopped at both

the top and bottom positions 2) With the zipper teeth connected/engaged and with the teeth of the 2 panels zipped together, pull the zipper head to the

upper most position and to the lower most position. If the zipper head

becomes separated/detached/comes off, this is considered a small part and is a Critical Defect on all children’s garments and a Major Defect on other

garments. This condition is of particular concern on tops and jackets.

7.7.4 Embroidered areas must be checked for untrimmed threads. If excessive threads or non- woven backing are found, this must be noted in the comments.

7.7.5 All button and button hole sewing must be lock stitched to prevent sewing threads unraveling and resulting in buttons dropping off or fraying of buttonholes.

7.7.6 Inspectors shall check for pocket placement, shape and evenness of pockets. They should

be consistent in shape, size and placement garment to garment as well as side to side on

the same garment. Defective pockets include: distorted in shape, placed hi-low to each other, placed crooked or at differing angles, inconsistent in size, shape or placement

garment to garment, etc.


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7.7.7 Labeling information should be checked against the information provided by Bon-Ton. If a

label is missing, wording is misspelled or wording is not readable, this is considered a major defect. Labeling shall be checked on all measured garments.

7.7.8 When no standard is provided, any shading variation visible to the inspector, within a

garment or garment to garment, is not acceptable. If any shading is observed, the

inspection must be placed on hold and the quantity and range of shades must be reported in the comments section of the report.

7.7.8.1 When shading is not evident, the inspector must comment on the report.

For example: No shade variation within a garment or garment to garment.

7.7.9 Garments taken from the first carton must be compared to the next carton, etc. to insure

that color, appearance, overall size, hand/feel, etc. are the same.

7.8 50% RULE: If an inspection passes, but one defect type is equal to 50% or more of the

allowable defects, the inspection must be placed on hold pending the Bon-Ton ’s decision. State in the comments section on the report that the reason for the inspection being placed on hold is due

to the 50% defect rule and include a description of the defect type found. Multiple defects must also be considered when determining if the 50% rule applies (in the example below, some of the

11 holes may have been part of multiple defects). Example:

AQL = AC: 21 RE: 22

Inspection results: 18 major defects 11 of the 18 defects are holes (11 is greater than 50% of the allowable defects “21”)

Action: Inspection is placed on hold because 11 defects are greater than 50% of the 21 major defects allowed.

7.9 Inspector must identify all defects by applying a piece of colored tape or appropriate marker on the

garment, near the defect.

7.10 Inspectors will send, by express courier, representative defect samples (repetitive or otherwise

noteworthy) from each rejected inspection. These will be shipped, via express courier, to the following:

Attention: Laura Whelan

THE BON-TON STORES, INC. 10th fl

310 West Wisconsin Avenue Milwaukee, WI 53203


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7.10.1 Whenever defect samples are sent to BON-TON after an inspection, a copy of the handwritten, draft report must be included with the shipped sample/s. In the event the

draft report is not written in English, it must still be included, but in addition, must be faxed, for translation, to the UL-STR Regional Coordination Center responsible for that

inspection. Either an (English) copy of the draft report or the final report must, be faxed or e-mailed to the Bon-Ton within one business day of the inspection .

The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. Fax#: 414-347-5278 The Bon-Ton Stores, Inc. E-mail: [email protected]

7.10.2 Samples sent to BON-TON must be packaged and shipped by the UL-STR inspector. If it is

absolutely necessary to ship the package from the factory, the packages must be sealed

with UL-STR tape by the inspector. If UL-STR tape is not available, the inspector must close the box, write their signature over all/every seam on the box, or apply their UL-STR

inspector stamp (chop mark), and cover the signature (or stamp/chop mark) with clear tape.

8.0 MEASUREMENTS

8.1 Bon-Ton will supply measurement specifications to UL-STR for each inspection assignment. A Bon-Ton approved measurement guide (how to measure), for each assignment, must also be provided

to UL-STR for forwarding to the UL-STR Regional Coordination Center and the inspector.

8.2 Measurements are to be checked on 10% of the sample size but a minimum of 3 garments per

size.

8.3 All measured garments must also be inspected for quality defects.

8.3.1 If one garment has a quality defect and a measurement defect, this is to be listed on the

report as a multiple defect. Indicate on the measurement chart which measured garment also had the quality defect.

8.4 If a measurement is within tolerance, place a check mark (√) in the space. If the measurement is

out of tolerance, the actual measurement must be reported.

8.4.1 All out of tolerance measurements defined by Bon-Ton as critical are recorded in the 2.5

AQL as a major defect. The balance of measurements taken during the inspection that are

found to be out of tolerance will be defined as non-critical and recorded in the 4.0 AQL as a minor defect.

8.4.2 Bon-Ton must provide tolerances and identify any measurements that are classified as

critical on the specification. The UL-STR inspector will be required to pay particular attention to that concern and provide specific comment on the report describing the

findings regarding that concern.

8.4.3 If critical measurements are not identified on the clients specification, UL-STR will follow

the critical measurements outlined in Appendix A of this manual in addition to any published dimensions on the production or packaging (i.e. Home)


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9.0 DEFECT LABELING

9.1 ALL DEFECTS ON A GARMENT MUST BE TAGGED. IF THERE IS MORE THAN ONE DEFECT ON A SINGLE GARMENT, THIS IS CONSIDERED A MULTIPLE DEFECT AND SHOULD BE LISTED AS A

MULTIPLE DEFECT ON THE REPORT. The garment is only counted as defective once.

9.2 Inspector must be consistent when using terms to describe defects.

9.3 Defects must be marked with colored tape.

9.4 Each defective garment must have an orange, self-adhesive sticker attached with defect(s) circled

on the tag. The sticker must be on the garment, not on a plastic bag. The garment information

only has to be completed on the garments sent to the Bon-Ton . The garments remaining factory only need the report tracking number and date, in addition to the defects circled on the

orange tag. The defects marked with colored tape and major or minor circled on the garments (this can be accomplished by attaching a defect sticker to every defective garment as it is

inspected, circling the defect and circle “major” or “minor” on the sticker).

9.5 Defect Identification – The inspector must make certain that all information on the defect sticker or

card sent with a defect sample is labeled identically to the information on the report.

10.0 REPORTING

10.1 Upon completion of the inspection, the report and inspection findings must be reviewed with an

authorized factory representative. Every defect must be shown to the factory representative.

10.1.1 Following the review of the report and inspection findings, the factory representative will be asked to sign the inspector’s draft copy of the report. If the representative refuses to

sign, print the persons name on the report and state that he/she refused to sign.

10.2 The inspector shall fax the report to the inspection coordinator at their UL-STR regional

coordination center.

10.2.1 The UL-STR regional inspection coordinator shall review the report for accuracy and correct content and then forward it to the appropriate U.S. project/program coordinator within one

business day after the inspection is completed.

10.2.2 The U.S. project/program coordinator will forward the report to the Bon-Ton .


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11.0 DEFECT CLASSIFICATION

11.1 Major and minor garment and fabric defects are listed and classified in Appendix B. The Bon-Ton

must advise UL-STR of any additions or modifications to Appendix B.

11.2 Inspections conducted on children’s garments must take into account, safety concerns. Therefore,

any pieces including buttons, snaps or other attachments that are loose or not securely attached and can fit into the CPSC small part cylinder will be considered critical defects. NOTE: This does

not ensure compliance to federal regulations.

12.0 RE-INSPECTIONS

12.1 Re-inspections are to be scheduled and conducted only when the shipment has been 100% sorted

and reworked and 100% packed and sealed for shipment. A complete inventory list of carton

numbers shall be provided in advance of the re-inspection.

12.2 No re-inspection may be scheduled on the same day as the first inspection unless specifically requested by the Bon-Ton . The factory or vendor cannot request a re-inspection.

12.2.1 Only if a program is vendor driven may a re-inspection be scheduled at the request of the

vendor.

13.0 CANCELLED OR TERMINATED INSPECTIONS

13.1 The UL-STR Regional Coordination Center must be notified a minimum of one business day to the

scheduled inspection to cancel or postpone an appointment. Additional advance notice may be

necessary if the inspector is required to travel to the inspection location.

13.2 If timely advance written cancellation notice is not received by the UL-STR Regional Coordination Center responsible for the inspection, the Bon-Ton or other responsible party will be billed for one

full man-day and all travel and out of pocket expenses incurred. If timely notice is provided to UL-STR, there will not be a charge

13.3 If an inspection is started and, at the request of a factory representative or agent, the inspection is stopped prior to completion, this shall be considered a terminated inspection.

13.3.1 The inspector shall record all inspection findings observed up to the point of termination.

13.3.2 The inspector shall obtain from the factory representative or agent, the reason why the inspection was stopped and record this in the comments section of the inspection report.

Comments must also include the total number of samples inspected at the time the inspection was aborted. The name of the person who stopped the inspection shall be

reported and the factory representative shall sign the hand written report.

13.3.3 Bon-Ton or other responsible party will be billed accordingly for one full man-day and all

travel and out of pocket expenses incurred.


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14.0 TESTING

14.1 If applicable, upon receipt of a testing request form from Bon-Ton, the UL-STR Regional

Coordinator will determine the required number of samples needed, per size, color, and style. The UL-STR Regional Coordinator will obtain this information from the appropriate UL-STR laboratory

that will conduct the testing. The UL-STR Regional Coordinator will instruct the inspector to randomly select the required samples and arrange for the samples to be shipped to the appropriate

UL-STR laboratory. The UL-STR Regional Coordinator will forward the appropriate UL-STR testing

request form to the UL-STR laboratory that will perform the testing. Note: UL-STR will name and assign a technical services representative who will review the testing reports.

15.0 INVOICING

15.1 UL-STR will invoice the vendor for each in-line and each final inspection at the agreed to man-day rate plus appropriate out of pocket expenses, such as transportation, communication, shipping,

hotel and meals when overnight stays are required; and other specifically identified expenses required to conduct, document, and complete the inspection and report.

15.2 Re-inspections will be conducted upon receipt of confirmation from Bon-Ton and will, likewise, be invoiced to the vendor at the agreed to man-day rate plus out of pocket expenses.


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APPENDIX A

CRITICAL MEASUREMENTS Tops

Neck Stretched: A minimum neck stretch measurement must be provided by the Bon-Ton for garments that require pulling over the head.

Neck Width

Collar band – button to button hole

Across Shoulder

Chest / Bust from 1” below armhole (unless otherwise specified)

Sweep

Body Length from HPS (unless otherwise specified)

Sleeve Length

Sleeve Opening

Arm Hole/ Arm Hole Depth

Bottoms

Waist Relaxed

Waist Extended (if elastic waist)

Hips or seat from 8” down from waist (unless otherwise specified)

Thigh from 1” down from crotch (unless otherwise specified)

Front Rise

Back Rise

Leg Opening ( also for swim Liner)


21

Inseams: Check for difference in length when the inseam is closed by snaps or buttons. If top and bottom of snaps are not perfectly aligned, some unevenness in length from front inseam panels to the back. The tolerance must be provided by the Bon-Ton .

Dresses

Neck Stretched: A minimum neck stretch measurement must be provided by the Bon-Ton for garments that require pulling over the head

Neck Width

Across Shoulder

Chest/Bust from 1” below armhole (unless otherwise specified)

Sweep

Body Length from HPS

Hip 8” down from waist (unless otherwise specified)

Sleeve Length

Arm Hole/ Arm Hole Depth

Skirts

Waist Relaxed

Waist Extended (if elastic waist)

Hips or seat from 8” down from waist (unless otherwise specified)

Length from waist

Sweep


22

APPENDIX B

CLASSIFICATION OF DEFECTS Defect Definitions Defects are classified into three main categories: -

(1) Critical Defects (2) Major Defects

(3) Minor Defects

The classified defects can then be divided into three sub-categories: - (a) Material Defects

(b) Production Defects (c) Packaging Defects

For a clearer understanding of how to classify defects, the following definitions are taken from the the ANSIZ.1.4- 2008

Critical Defect “A critical defect is a defect that judgment and experience indicate is likely to result in hazardous

or unsafe conditions for individuals using, maintaining or depending upon the product.” To simplify, a critical defect usually contravenes legal requirements, particularly safety legislation.

It is important to understand that the detection of just one critical defect will fail the

shipment.

Major Defect “A major defect is a defect, other than critical, that is likely to result in failure or to reduce

materially the usability of the unit of product for its intended purpose.” In simple terms, a major defect is likely to

result in product failure, either initially or within a short period of time. A major defect will result in the end-user rejecting and returning the product.

Minor Defect

“A minor defect is a defect that is not likely to reduce materially the usability of the unit of product for its intended purpose.” In other words, a minor defect may cause some end-user dissatisfaction but may not

cause the end user to reject and return the product.

List of Defects

The lists of defects and their classifications on the following pages are intended as a guide. Sound judgment and experience are important factors in deciding whether the defect renders the item

“Second Quality”.


23

Defect Classification Lists – Woven Fabric Defects MAJOR MINOR

Burl Mark - A distortion caused by removing a thick slub or waste yarn with a “burling tool”. The defect appears as an open space in the fabric. X

End out - A missing warp yarn caused by yarn breaking and loom continuing

to run. The defect appears as a thin line. X

Fly - Small fibers spun into the yarn during spinning. X X

Hole - Caused by broken yarns in either warp or weft direction. X

Jerk-In - An extra piece of filling yarn jerked part way into the fabric

by the shuttle. The defect appears at the selvage. X X

Knots - Where two ends of yarn have been tied together. X X

Reed Mark / - Resulting from a bent reed wire which causes the

Open Reed warp ends to be held apart and expose the filling yarn. The defect appears as a fine lined thin place in the warp direction. X

Slub - A short, thick place in the yarn or an extra piece of yarn woven into the fabric. X X

Soiled Filling - Filling or warp yarns soiled by dirt or grease. X

Thin Place - An area across the fabric width with less picks or lighter X filling than that normal to the rest of the fabric.

Defect Classification Lists – Knitted Fabric Defects

Barre - Resulting from uneven yarn, uneven tension or yarns X with differing dye affinities. The defect appears as irregular, horizontal streaks.

Birdseye - Unintentional erratic tucking caused by a malfunctioning needle.

The defect usually appears as two small distorted stitches side by side. X

Dropped Stitch - A stitch is not formed because of a malfunctioning needle.

The defect appears as holes or missed stitches. X

Hole - Caused by a broken needle. X

Needle Line - Distorted stitches caused by a bent needle. The defect

appears as a vertical line. X X


24

MAJOR MINOR

Press-off - Where fabric fails to knit and either falls off the machine

or the design is completely disrupted or destroyed. Bad press-offs

usually start a new roll of fabric. X

Run - Unformed stitches caused by a broken needle. The defect appears as a vertical line of unformed stitches. X

Slub - Caused by a thick place in the yarn or by lint getting onto the

yarn feeds. X

Defect Classification Lists – Fabric Finishing Defects

Bowing - Usually caused by distortion of fabric during finishing. The woven filling yarns, or course rows in knit fabrics, lie in an arc across the fabric width.

on stripes, plaids or patterns. X

Bowing - Usually caused by distortion of fabric during finishing. The woven filling yarns, or course rows in knit fabrics, lie in an arc across the fabric width.

on solid colors and with an agreed standard. X

Color Out - Caused by color running low in the reservoir on the printing machine.

The defect appears as blank patches in the print pattern. X

Color Smear - Caused by the color being smeared during printing. The defect

appears as blurred edges and distortion to pattern. X X

Crease Mark - Caused by fabric folds during finishing process. The defect appears as a crease line which cannot be pressed out. X

Pin Holes - Caused by pins holding the fabric out to width during finishing process. The defect appears as holes along the selvage in the finished product. X

Pin Holes - Caused by pins holding the fabric out to width during finishing

process. If the pin holes are not visible in the finished product. X

Print out of Register - Caused by print rollers being out of synchronization.

The defect appears as pattern distortion. X X

Scrimp - Caused by fabric being folded or creased during printing. The defect appears as areas which are not printed. X

Water Spots - Caused by fabric being left too long before drying. The defect appears as blotches or spots of different colors. X


25

Defect Classification Lists – Production Defects MAJOR MINOR

Cutting Defects

Grain Line - a) Component parts cut off-grain or on wrong grain. b) Component parts cut on inverted or opposite grain on pile, nap,

one way design fabrics. X c) Any component not cut according to specified stripe or pattern

matching requirements. X

Size - Component parts not cut to correct pattern size.

depending on degree of variance from pattern and on tolerance allowed. X

Drill Holes - Drill holes, used to locate position of pockets, end of dart etc., which will not close or are exposed after setting pocket etc. X

Notches - Notches cut too deep to be contained within the seam allowance and are exposed as a hole after seaming. X

Fusing Defects

De-Lamination - Also bubbling, both caused by incorrect fusing cycle,

temperature or use of incompatible fusible. Must also ensure de-lamination

does not occur after following care instructions. X

Strike Through/ Strike Back Caused by use of either incompatible fusible or incorrect fusing cycle. X

Fabric Discoloration- Caused by incorrect fusing. X

Construction Defects

Fabric - Substitution of fabric other than specified. X

Components - Substitution or omission of any component part. X

Color Deviation - Substitution or poor match of color or pattern

compared to approved swatches and lab dips. X X

Shading - Mis-matching of panels and components or garments

within a set. X

Soiling - a) Any conspicuous oil mark, spots, stains or soiling. X b) Any rings or marks left after removing spots, stains or oil. X

c) Any visible ink, pencil or chalk mark. X

Style - Substitution of style or features other than specified. X


26

MAJOR MINOR

Seam and Stitch Defects

Seam Type - Substitution of seam-type not previously approved. X

Stitch Type - Substitution of stitch-type not previously approved. X

Stitch Tension - Loose stitch tension or poorly balanced stitch resulting in seam grin. X

Tight stitch tension - Resulting in seam pucker. X

SPI - Stitches per inch more or less than specified stitches. +/- 2 stitches per inch. Per Inch) X

SPI - Stitches per inch more or less than specified stitches.

+/- 1 stitch per inch. X

Thread Type / Size - Use of monofilament thread or non-specified

thread type X

Thread Color - a) Use of non-specified thread color or mis-matched thread color. X

b) Looper or bobbin thread color not matching top stitching color

UNLESS SPECIFIED. X

Sewing Defects

Broken Stitch - a) Unacceptable in a functional or decorative seam. X

b) A single broken stitch in a non-functional seam. (e.g. merrowed edge on an open-pressed seam) X

Skip Stitch - a) A single skipped stitch in a stitch type which will unravel

(usually a chain stitch). X

b) A single skipped stitch in a lockstitch seam PROVIDING THE THREAD IS NOT BROKEN. X

Seam Repair - a) Conspicuous or poor seam repairs affecting appearance

or serviceability. X b) Seam repair not sewn stitch on stitch with stitches at each end overlapping

by a minimum 3 stitches in 10 SPI count and without back stitches at each end. X

Open Seam - Caused when the sewing operator does not catch all plies of

fabric into the seam. X

Burst Seam - Caused by either broken stitches or poor joining within the seam. X

Cracked Seam / Cracked Stitches - Any seam or line of sewing which does

not fully extend with the fabric without cracking / popping stitches. X


27

MAJOR MINOR

Back Stitching - a) Thread break or ends of stitching not securely

back stitched (except when caught into other seams). X b) Over stitch or back stitch not sewn stitch on stitch and out by more

than 1/16”. X

Run-Off Run-offs on edge stitching or top stitching. Conspicuous

Stitching stitching over-run onto other parts of X

Over-Run - garment which is not intended. over 2 stitches X

Over-Run - garment which is not intended up to 2 stitches X

Top Stitching - Top stitching not straight or not parallel. X X

Raw Edges - Unfinished hems or seams with raw edges which will fray.

Felled seams where fabric is not folded into seam and caught into stitching. X

Seam Pucker - Any seam distorted by twisting, roping, pleating, puckering or

stretching which affects the appearance. X

Uneven Seam - Seam lengths uneven in excess of ¼ . X

Unrelated Seam - Any part of garment caught into an unrelated seam or

operation. X

Waste - Any waste sewn into the outside of the garment or visible when the garment is worn. X

Stay Stitching - Any stay stitching not completely concealed or removed e.g. at sleeve cap. X

Needle Damage - Any needle chews or holes which could develop

into fabric damage. X

Collar

Points - a) Variation in collar points. over 1/8” difference. X Fabric - b) Incorrect distribution of fabric between top and under collar

causing under collar to roll out; or excess fullness on top collar. X Balance - c) Balance of collar out, collar looks twisted / distorted when fastened. X

Collar Points - a) Variation in collar points. less than 1/8” difference.` X

Balance - b) Balance of collar out, collar looks twisted / distorted when fastened. less than 1/8” difference. X

Darts Size - a) Not identical in size, length or angle. Over 1/8” difference X

Stitching - b) Stitching line crooked and not tapered correctly causing end of dart to nipple / dimple. X

Drill Holes - c) Drill holes exposed after stitching. X


28

MAJOR MINOR

Darts

Size - a) Not identical in size, length or angle less than 1/8” difference. X Stitching - b) Stitching line crooked and not tapered correctly causing

end of dart to nipple / dimple. X

Pockets

Reinforcement - a) Corners not reinforced by either back stitching or bar tacks. X Size / Shape - b) Paired pockets not uniform in size and shape. Over 1/4” difference. X

Location - c) Misaligned, hi / lo pocket placement. Over 1/4” difference. X Drill Holes - d) Drill holes not covered by pocket placement. X

Pockets Size / Shape - a) Paired pockets not uniform in size and shape.

More than 1/4” difference. X Location - b) Misaligned, hi / lo pocket placement.

less than 1/4” difference X

Pocket Flaps

Size / Shape - a) Paired pocket flaps not uniform in size and shape. over 1/4” difference X

Opening - b) Pocket and opening not fully covered by pocket flap. Alignment - c) Misaligned / Crooked pocket flap placement. more than

1/8” out of line. X

Location - d) Conspicuously not centered over pocket. X Fabric - e) Incorrect distribution of fabric between top and under flap causing

under flap to roll out; excess fullness on top flap. X

Pocket Flaps

Size / Shape - a) Paired pocket flaps not uniform in size and shape. less than 1/4” difference. X

Alignment - b) Misaligned / Crooked pocket flap placement. less than 1/8” out of line. X

Facings Roll Out - a) Facings too full and rolling out or bubbling. X X

Tight - b) Facings too small and pulling or causing hiking. X X

Plackets Top Edges - a) Top placket lower than bottom placket at neckline /

top edge. more than ¼ X

Bottom Edges - b) Bottom placket longer than top placket at hemline/ lower edge.more than 1/4”. X

Alignment - c) Top and bottom placket misaligned at front edge. more than 1/8”. X

Location - d) Front placket off-center in excess of 1/4”. X


29

MAJOR MINOR

Plackets Top Edges - a) Top placket lower than bottom placket at neckline /

top edge. less than 1/4”. X Bottom Edges - b) Bottom placket longer than top placket at hemline / lower edge.

less than 1/4”. X

Alignment - c) Top and bottom placket misaligned at front edge. less than 1/8”. X

Sleeves

Setting - a) Set into wrong / opposite armholes. X Balance - b) Incorrect setting into armhole causing sleeve to be out of balance

and pitched too far forward / backward. Sleeve pitch is essential in the fitting

of jackets. X X Length - c) Sleeve lengths varying by more than 3/8”. X

Alignment - d) Misalignment of sleeve / underarm seam (cross-over / tie-in) in excess of 3/8”. X

Sleeve Cuff - Plain Hem Size - a) Left and right cuff widths must measure the same.

over 1/8” difference. X

Sleeve Cuff - Plain Hem Size - a) Left and right cuff widths must measure the same.

less than 1/8” difference X

Shirt Cuff

Size - b) Cuffs not uniform in size and shape. over 1/8” difference. X Fabric - c) Incorrect distribution of fabric between top and under-cuff X

causing under cuff to roll out, excess fullness in top cuff. X

Attachment - d) Seam closure causing ‘step’ at cuff in excess of 1/8”. X

Shirt Cuff Size - b) Cuffs not uniform in size and shape. less than 1/8” difference. X

Waistband Alignment - a) Misalignment of waistband over and underlap at fastening.

more than 1/8 X Width - b) Uneven width more than 1/8 X

Waistband

Alignment - a) Misalignment of waistband over and underlap at fastening.

less than 1/8”. X Width - b) Uneven width less than 1/8”. X


30

MAJOR MINOR

Belt Loops

Location - a) Missing or misplaced. X Angle - b) Slanted / Set at an angle crooked. more than ¼ X

Attachment - c) Not securely attached. X

Width - d) Width not as specified. more than 1/8 X Length - e) Length / Opening not as specified. more than 1/4”. X

Seam - f) Open seam in belt loop construction. X Trimming - g) Turnings of loop not fully trimmed. X

Belt Loops

Angle - b) Slanted / Set at an angle / crooked. less than 1/4”. X

Width - d) Width not as specified. less than 1/8”. X Length - e) Length / Opening not as specified. less than 1/4”. X

Pants

Alignment - a) Misalignment of crotch seams in excess of 1/4”. X

Size - b) Left and right leg hem widths must measure the same. For Plain Hemmed Leg Ends: over 1/4” difference. For Ribbed Cuffs:

over 1/8” difference X Length - c) Leg lengths varying more than 3/8”. X

Seams - d) Twisted legs in excess of 1/2” outseam off from inseam. X

Pants

Size - a) Left and right leg hem widths must measure the same. For Plain Hemmed Leg Ends: less than 1/4” difference. For Ribbed Cuffs: less than

1/8” difference X

Lining

Exposed - a) Lining showing below shell. X Too Short - b) Lining too short. X

Too Small - c) Lining too tight. X Attachment - d) Missing loop attaching lining to shell. X

Hemming Width - a) Uneven hem width in excess of 25%. X

Roping - b) Excessively roping / twisted or puckered hem. X Skip - c) Any non-raveling skip on a blindstitch in excess of 1/2” X

Pick-Up - d) Blindstitch needle pick-up visible on face side. X X Hemline - e) Uneven hemline. X X

Repairs Repair / - Any repair / replacement not completely cleaned of all

replacement threads or properly sewn. X


31

MAJOR MINOR

Fastening / Trim Defects

Button or Buttonhole - a) Button style / size / quality not as approved. X b) Broken / Defective button. X

c) Missing / Extra button / button hole X

d) Button not securely sewn. X e) Buttonhole stitches cut or unraveling. X

f) Buttonhole stitch bite too narrow, causing buttonhole to separate from fabric. X g) Incomplete buttonhole either uncut or stitches not complete. X

h) Buttonhole too big / too small for button. X i) Button / Buttonhole alignment misplaced causing noticeable bulge. X

j) Button / Buttonhole alignment misplaced causing uneven closure at top/

neckline or bottom / hemline. X k) Garment fastening the wrong way. X

l) Buttonhole not cut cleanly leaving ragged edges, long fabric threads and fabric thread loops. X

m) Fabric snags and damage caused by blunt knife / needle in

buttonhole machine. X n) Button / Buttonhole off center in excess of 1/8”. X

o) Buttonhole gimp missing when specified. X

Zipper - a) Color, length, size or quality not as approved. X b) Zipper tape exposed when fly is closed. X

c) Fly fastening the wrong way. X

d) Right and left zipper tape not properly aligned resulting in hi / low fastening or distorted appearance. X

e) Zipper tape stitched too loose or too tight causing noticeable bulge when closed. X f) Missing / Insecure top or bottom stop. X

g) Faulty slider or teeth / coil. X

h) Impaired zipper operation through any part of its length. X

Snap Fasteners / Popper Fasteners / Stud Fasteners - a) Style / Size / Quality not as approved. X

b) Broken / Defective / Will not stay closed securely. X

c) Components misplaced / incorrectly aligned causing noticeable bulge, twist, distortion or pucker. X

d) Missing / Extra fastening. X e) Components applied with incorrect pressure, gripping fabric too loose /

tight causing fabric damage / detach from garment. X

Hook + Eye - a) Not securely attached, missing. X

b) Components misplaced / incorrectly aligned causing noticeable bulge, twist, distortion or pucker. X

All Metal Fastenings. - Any corrosion, oxidization (rust), broken,

rough or sharp edges. X

Belts - a) Wrong size. X

b) Incorrect components / components not as specified. X


32

MAJOR MINOR

Ornamental (e.g. Frog, Bow, Loop etc.) Fastenings - a) Color, size, style, quality not as specified / approved. X

b) Missing or not securely attached. X

c) Components misplaced, incorrectly aligned, conspicuously not uniform in position. X

Drawcord - a) Style, size, color, quality not as specified or approved. X b) Not attached properly or not inserted correctly. X

c) Incorrect finished length. X d) Ends of drawcord not treated / finished correctly to prevent pulling

back into tunnel. X

e) Eyelet missing, misplaced, poorly finished. X f) Drawcord applied so that it will not run / pull freely. X

Pressing - a) Burn / scorch, shine / glaze. X

b) Pressing omitted or poorly pressed. Garment distorted by

improper pressing. X c) Seams not pressed open, not fully pressed. X

d) Lapels, collars, cuffs, hems not pressed. X e) Pants pressed offseam from crotch to hem. if more than ½ X

e) Pants pressed offseam from crotch to hem. if less than 1/2”. X f) Pressed-in creases when not required. X

g) Permanent crease line not extending full length. X

Measurement Defects

Measurements - Any critical measurement not within specified tolerance. X

Measurements – Any non-critical measurement not within specified tolerance X

Miscellaneous Defects

Embroidery / Appliqué - a) Incomplete embroidery,

insecurely attached appliqué. X

b) Mis-alignment, incorrect placement. X X

Pocket Lining / Pocket Bag - a) Caught into unrelated garment part. X b) Lining showing on outside of garment. X

Show-through - Shadow show-through of component. X X

Odor / Smell - Any objectionable or offensive odor or smell. X

Mildew - Any mildew. X

Others - Any other obvious defect which will affect the appearance

or use of the product. X


33

Critical MAJOR MINOR

Defect Classification Lists – Packaging

Size - a) Size marked on the package differs from the size marked on the item. X

b) Sizes vary within a set. e.g. Top labeled ‘size 12’ packed with a skirt labeled ‘size 14’. X

Folding - Merchandise folded / packed incorrectly / not as specified,

resulting in poor appearance. X

G.O.H. - Merchandise packed incorrectly / not as specified. X

Quantity - Quantity / Color / Size per box not as specified. X

Carton Labeling - Box Label / Marking differs from contents. X

Packaging - a) Packaging materials and dimensions not as specified. X

b) Damaged carton / box. X

Labeling Defects

Country of Origin - a) Missing, incorrect or illegible. X b) Not caught completely or not sewn securely. X

c) Placement not as specified. X

Fiber - Composition -a) Missing, incorrect or illegible. X

b) Not caught completely or not sewn securely. X c) Placement not as specified. X

Warning Label - (e.g. Fire Warning, tracking label for kids ect.)

a) Missing, incorrect or illegible. X b) Not caught completely or not sewn securely. X

c) Placement not as specified. X

Brand Label - a) Missing, incorrect or illegible. X

b) Not caught completely or not sewn securely. X c) Sewn upside-down. X

d) Attached crookedly. if more than 1/4”. X Attached crookedly if less than 1/4”. X

e) Attached off-center. if more than 1/4”. X

Attached off-center. if less than 1/4”. X f) Placement not as specified. X X


34

MAJOR MINOR

Size Label - Missing, incorrect, illegible. X

Care Label - a) Missing, incorrect, illegible. X

b) Not caught completely or not sewn securely.

NB. Care label must remain legible for the life of the garment. X

Trimming and Pressing Defects

a) Attached threads on outside if longer than ¼ X b) Attached threads on outside if shorter than ¼ X

c) Attached threads on inside if longer than ½ X

d) Attached threads on inside if shorter than ½ X e) Loose threads on outside or inside (judged based on excessive or not) X X

Note: Includes button / buttonhole threads

Pressing Defects judged on garment location, severity, and set production standard X X

Plymark Tickets - Plymark tickets in a conspicuous location. X


35

DOMESTIC VENDOR NOTIFICATION FORM

Season:

VP:

Bon-Ton Assigned Resource #: Product Development Contact Person:

Product Mgr:

Domestic Vendor:

Address: Quality/Compliance Contact Person:

E-mail: Phone:

Production Factory Label Open to buy

Month Style Description Units Comments* For QA use

Factory Name:

Bon-Ton Assigned Factory #:

Contact Person:

Phone:

Fax:

E-mail:

Address:

Submit this form to: Bill Grange

DVP - Quality Assurance The Bon Ton Stores, Inc.

This completed form triggers the following events:

Social Compliance Audit/Human Rights Evaluation initiated by STR or Omega (3rd party compliance audit companies)

Product Quality Inspection initiated by STR (3rd party inspection company) Product Testing initiated by Bureau Veritas' (3rd party testing company) NOTE: The cost of Bon-Ton’s third party audits, inspections, and testing are the responsibility of the vendor and/or factory.


36

BON-TON STORES SOFTLINE INSPECTION REPORT Report Date:

Prepared for: BON-TON STORES

Page 1 of

310 W. WISCONSIN AVENUE Inspection Date:

MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN 53203 Project #:

Attention: BILL GRANGE – Quality Assurance Tracking #:

Vendor Name: Vendor #: Vendor Address:

[ ] Int. Sew; [ ] Inline; [ ] Final; [ ] Re-insp.

Merchandise:

Control Unit Available: Yes [ ] No [ ] Shade Bands Available: Yes [ ] No [ ]

PO #:

Order Qty.

Qty. Available

Sample Size

Style #:

Color(s):

Place of Inspection (name, address & factory #):

Country of Origin: Inspector(s):

50% Rule Utilized: ( ) Yes ( ) No 10% Repeat Defect Rule Utilized: ( ) Yes ( ) No

INSPECTION RESULT: [ ] Accepted [ ] Rejected [ ] Not Ready

Conclusion: The merchandise ___ _____ commercially acceptable.

(is/ is not)

Samples Sent To Client: [ ] No / [ ] Yes Courier: __________________ AWB#: ___________________

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY: The merchandise identified above was inspected for criteria for workmanship, appearance and conformance to measurements. There were a total of major defects and minor defects reported.

This signature confirms that the UL-STR inspector has discussed the results of this inspection with me and that I am an authorized factory representative: Print Name: .

DO NOT RELEASE SHIPMENT FROM YOUR WAREHOUSE UNTIL BON-TON STORES CONFIRMS APPROVAL BY EMAIL

Comments:


37

BON-TON STORES SOFTLINE INSPECTION REPORT Comments: Page 2 Continued

__________________________ _________________________ Specialized Technology Resources Specialized Technology Resources


38

BON-TON STORES SOFTLINE INSPECTION REPORT

Project #: Tracking #: Vendor #:

Page 2 of

Inspection Standard: ANSI/ASQ Z1.4-2008, General Level (II)

Others: ___________________

[ ] NORMAL INSPECTION [ ] REDUCED INSPECTION [ ] TIGHTENED INSPECTION

AQL: (2.5 ) MAJOR Major AC: RE: Result: Major

( 4.0 ) MINOR Minor AC: RE: Minor

*Cartons Opened: Pieces Inspected: Workmanship: pieces Measurements: pieces

*Minimum of 8 cartons – at least 2 cartons per size

MAJOR MAJOR MAJOR MINOR MINOR MINOR

PRINT: registration – dye smears – dye flaw

STAINS: oil – grease – dirt – ink – red – blue – chalk -

pencil – water – yellow – rust

BUTTONS/SNAPS/HOOKS/LOOPS: loose – missing –

chipped – broken – dirty – buttonhole missing–

buttonhole not opened – placement off

HOLES: holes – needle holes

SEAMS & STITCHING: missed stitches – broken stitches

loose/skipped stitches – open hem – raw edge –

open/broken seam – poor topstitching –

fabric caught in stitch – non inclusion – pucker –

poor repairs –

ZIPPERS: placement off – stuck – broken – pull broken

LININGS: hanging below hem – too big or too small

ELASTIC: too loose – too tight – stretched out

POCKETS: misplaced – sewn closed

LOOSE AND UNTRIMMED THREADS

PRESSING / PRESENTATION

LABELS: loose – missing – mis-sized

FOREIGN FIBERS/TRAPPED THREADS

FABRIC FLAWS: misweaves – run – slubs – snag – barre

SHADING: garment to garment - panel

PRICE TICKET/HANGTAG: incorrect – missing

OTHER OR MULTIPLE DEFECTS:

MEASUREMENTS:

TOTALS


39

BON-TON STORES SOFTLINE INSPECTION REPORT

Project #: Tracking #: Vendor #: Page of

MULTIPLE DEFECTS

Style Matches Reference Sample (yes or no) (if no, describe on pg. 1)

Correct

Incorrect

Shading (yes or no for each section)

(if yes, describe on pg. 1) Gmt. to Gmt.

Panel Shading

Size Spec (report number out of tolerance)

# Within Tolerance # Outside Tolerance

Pull Test on Buttons/Snaps/Hooks/Embellishments (pass / fail or N/A)

# Accepted # Rejected

Inspection environment, including lighting, is acceptable to conduct this inspection

[ ] Excellent (greater than 80 ft cdl); [ ] Good 70 - 80 ft cdl); [ ] Fair (60 – 70 ft cdl); [ ] Poor (less than 60 ft cdl)

Care Label Information

Packing Model Description

Hang Tag Description/s

Carton Markings (provide info. exactly as shown on carton)


40

INSPECTION RESULT ACCEPTED { } REJECTED { }

INSPECTION REPORT ( Hard Lines) PROJECT # : REPORT DATE:

__________ CLIENT : INSPECTION DATE:

_______ VENDOR: REINSPECTION:{ }Y { } N FACTORY NAME : ________________________________ FACTORY ADDRESSS: ________________________________ ITEM : LOT SIZE: SAMPLE SIZE : ON HOLD { } DESTINATION: PO#: ___________________________ STYLE : INSPECTION STANDARD: ASTM/ASQ Z1.4-2008. , GENERAL LEVEL (II) OTHERS __________ { } NORMAL INSPECTION { } REDUCED INSPECTION { } TIGHTENED INSPECTION

AQL : ( 0) CRITICAL AC: RE: RESULT: CRITICAL _______ (4.0) MAJOR AC: RE: MAJOR _______

DEFECT DESCRIPTION

CR

MA

MI

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY:

The merchandise identified above was inspected for the client for quality, workmanship / construction and appearance. My signature confirms that the STR inspector has discussed the results of this inspection with me and that I am an authorized factory representative: ______________________________ Print Name: _________________________ .


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Client: Project Number: Item: Page: 2

CARTON MARKINGS

COMMENTS: __________________________ _________________________ UL-STR UL-STR

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