ranaghat gold & silver jewellery clusterdesignclinicsmsme.org/design awareness programme...

Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 1PB Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta

INTERACTIVE DESIGN STUDY OF

RANAGHAT GOLD & SILVER JEWELLERY CLUSTER

CLUSTER LEVEL REPORTMSME DESIGN CLINIC SCHEME, 2012

Designed, Documented and Photographed by: Susmita Dutta

Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta 32 Assessment survey | Ranaghat Silver and Gold and Jewellery Cluster | MSME 2012 - 13 Submitted by: Susmita Dutta

Dedicated

This survey report is dedicated to all the efforts, the entrepreneurial spirit of the Ranaghat

Silver & Gold artisans of Nadia, West Bengal.


Design Clinic Scheme for Design Expertise to MSMEs, a unique and ambitious design intervention scheme for the country’s large micro, small and medium scale enterprises, is an initiative of Ministry of MSME, Government of India has been launched under National Manufacturing Competitiveness programme. The scheme is being designed keeping in mind the objective of design awareness, design interventions and competitiveness improvement for largest group of industrial sectors, Micro, small and medium enterprises of the country which contributes to approximately 45% of total industrial production and 40% exports. They are major contributors to the GDP growth, accounting to about 8%. They are also the largest employers after agriculture, employing an estimated 41 million people.

The main objective of the Design Clinic Scheme is to bring MS&ME sector and design expertise into a common platform and to provide expert advice and solutions on real time design problems, resulting in continuous improvement and value addition for existing products. This model brings design exposure to the door step of industry clusters for design awareness, improvement, evaluation, analysis and design related intervention.

Design clinic scheme will assist industrial clusters to open a channel for design information inflow for creative, innovative and futuristic approach towards the product, process, operations, manufacturing and business design.

The scheme will help generate insight for opportunity identification and design intervention for competitive and breakthrough solutions for MSMEs. The total scheme budget will be Rs. 73.58 crores, out of which Rs. 49.08 crores will be GoI assistance and the balance

About the Design Clinic Scheme

amount will be contributed by the beneficiary MSMEs. The scheme provides great opportunity to the large sector of MSME (Associations and Units) as well as Indian design fraternity – the design consulting firms, independent designers, various design institutes of the country and also the design students to engage them to assist the country’s large MSME sector move up the value chain through increasing the value and competitiveness of their products and services. The scheme targets to reach out to about 200 MSME clusters over the next two and half years. This will be achieved through organization of about 200 design sensitization seminars, 200 Design Clinic Workshops and 400 design projects including 100 student design projects (final year thesis projects). National Institute of Design (NID), Ahmedabad will assist the Ministry of MSME, Government of India, as a nodal agency for implementing the scheme. As part of the scheme a Design Clinic Centre and its regional centres are being set up to reach out to all parts of the country. For easy percolation of design thinking and philosophy and maximum benefit for MSME units the Design Clinic Scheme is divided at 3 broader levels.

These activities are helpful in smooth transition in to several levels of design intervention in industrial and business activities of MSMEs.1. Design Sensitisation Seminar2. Design Awareness programmea. Need Assessment Surveyb. Design Clinic Workshop3. Design Projects


Introduction Design Awareness Program

The design awareness programme, DAP, is focused to develop a holistic map of MSME clusters and units by exploring through industrial functions and activities. The design experts will generate design information about products, market scenario, technology, communication, research & development, and various industrial functions along with human factor study for ergonomics, safety, convenience, learning and skill up gradation through design research. Also the programme will provide design remedies for identified opportunities through design clinic workshop. The workshop will help participants tounderstand the holistic scenario of cluster and benefit them with the support of design experts, for design intervention in opportunity areas explored during the programme.

The activities of design awareness programme are targeted around following areas of design information collection and remedial solutions.

Design Expert will visit the identified / selected MSME units located in cluster region and interact with them to develop a design understanding of cluster. During the interaction design will provide inputs to MSMEs about product improvements, best practices and creative problem solving approach based on contextual scenario. In the process she /he will identify underlying opportunities with the help of explorative design research of clusters and participating units. This activity is an intensive design research for understanding the present

scenario and opportunities for the design intervention. Also it will help improve MSME through Interactive learning, guidance and training during the visit.

This activity will be a detailed research thorough visits and interaction with people within the MSME work environment. It will also help designer to generate information about the cluster units, their products, manufacturing processes, market scenario followed by identifying opportunity areas for design interventions. The research would be taken up by design experts for generation of design insights through various processes of exploration, interaction and data collection.

Design experts will take part in developing macro perspective by studying cluster scenario and micro point of view by exploring through MSME units operations. As an outcome of interactive design research, experts will identify opportunity areas at cluster as well as units level for design interventions and design projects in the future course of design clinic scheme.

The research methodology for design study survey will include activities through observation, interaction, photography, interviews and qualitative/quantitative design data collection. The survey will help in developing detailed map of cluster and units for identification of patterns and exploring opportunity areas for design intervention at various levels of product and human interactions.


The National Institute of Design (NID) is internationally acclaimed as one of the foremost multi- disciplinary institutions in the field of design education and research. The Business week, USA has listed NID as one of the top 25 European & Asian programmes in the world. The institute functions as an autonomous body under the department of Industrial Policy & Promotion, Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Government of India. NID is recognised by the Dept. of Scientific & Industrial Research (DSIR) under Ministry of Science & Technology, Government of India, as a scientific and industrial design research organisation. NID has been a pioneer in industrial design education after Bauhaus and Ulm in Germany and is known for its pursuit of design excellence to make Designed in India, Made for the World a reality. NID’s graduates have made a mark in key sectors of commerce, industry and social development by taking role of catalysts and through thought leadership.

About National Institute of Design


About Ranaghat, Nadia

N

S

EW

Map of India


Ranaghat is a city in the district of Nadia, West Bengal, India. It is situated 74 kilometres north of Calcutta. It is mostly known for its handcraft especially silver and gold craft and hand loom industry. The town has spread up along its borders in all corners recently. People from the nearby places do come here for living.

GeographyThe town is exactly 74 kilometres north of Calcutta and 26 kilometres south of Krishnanagar, Nadia District headquarters. The Bangladesh border is very close to this town. Ranaghat is located on the banks of River Churni.

PopulationRanaghat had a population of 68,754.[4] Males constitute 51% of the population and females 49%. Ranaghat has an average literacy rate of 84%, higher than the national average of 59.5%: male literacy is 87%, and female literacy is 80%. In Ranaghat, 8% of the population is under 6 years of age.

EconomyRanaghat is a place of business. Small traders from nearby towns and villages purchase goods from Ranaghat Town Bazar. Both Wholesale and Retail business have developed here. The Economy of Ranaghat and its surrounding region is mostly based on agriculture. Paddy (rice), flour, wheat and fruits are produced by farmers outside the main township. Another industry which is not receiving the government’s patronage is handicrafts and hand looms. At least 1000 people depend on this for their livelihood.

Map of West Bengal, indicated Nadia district and Ranaghat


EducationThe town boasts a large number of primary and high-schools and a reputed college for higher education.

FestivalsThe town is inhabited mostly by Bengali Hindus. Durga-puja, like in all other Bengali communities, is the largest and most colourful festival and is celebrated throughout the town. Pujas belonging to the old families of Ranaghat are a few hundred years old. The Durga idol at Ghatak Bari is made of cement, a permanent structure which is one of the firsts of its kind in the region. All other major Hindu pujas are celebrated as well. Rath-yatra is another big festival of the town. Every year millions of people from the town and nearby places come to see the rath, enjoy various rides and have fun during the month of June–July at the happy club maidan & swasthyonnati Math rath-yatra-utsav.

TranspotationThe city is well connected to the Sealdah railway station through the Sealdah-Ranaghat Line. Local and passenger trains are available every half-an-hour. Ranaghat Jn. has a good service of local trains. The town has two bus-stands, one at Rathtala and one near Ranaghat College. Auto rickshaw service is popular here. There are very few private cars. Nearest airport from the town being the Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose International Airport at Dum Dum, almost 80 km from the town.

LanguageMostly Bengoli is the common language to talk but other language like Hindi, English used very rare to communicate.


Right page: In Jafornagar, an artisan joining the silver chain. This process named “Pan saja”.


ObjectiveThe objective of need assessment survey is to generate detailed cluster information to understand the core issues related to• Raw Material at different stages of manufacturing• Infrastructure setup and workplace• Process and techniques• Existing Products• Tools and technology in use• Capability of manufacturing unit• Present Market status• Current Competition• Packaging and Presentation• Display and Marketing• Wastage• Hallmark

Methodology• Questioner survey of manufacturing and sales units.• Discussion with unit owner and artisans.• Process observation.• Visit to different working spaces and market.• Find traces from earlier technique and usage of tools and material.• Self observation and analysis.

Expected deliverableThis extensive design research is intended to provide qualitative and detail data of every cluster to generate insights about this craft which would help to address the existing problems and future opportunity area for design intervention or scopes which can be further workout and can be taken up during the design clinic workshop and are as taken up as design projects with in and outside the cluster scenario.

DurationNeed Assessment Survey was of five days. Further it will followed by Design Clinic Workshop at Ranaghat, West Bengal.

WorkshopAfter the conclusion and the submission of Need Assessment Survey Report under the Design Clinic Scheme, a five day workshop was conducted at the Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster in Ranaghat, Nadia (West Bengal) from 18th to 22th March 2013.

Assessment survey


Present Status of the Cluster

Gold and silver jewellery is a traditional craft of Ranaghat which has been practised from last 100 years. But now in this cluster artisans and owners are facing different problems. The problems are of diverse kinds. For example problems related to marketing, capital, buying and selling, raw materials and various technical nuances etc.

The entrepreneurs of micro level have to face many inconveniences due to current rise in market price of the raw materials. The large scale entrepreneurs do not have to face such inconveniences because they have quite an appreciable amount of monetary capital. On the contrary the entrepreneurs of micro level are not being able to compete with the large scale ones as they face financial constraints along with some other important issues.

One of them is lack of modern technology. According to the entrepreneurs of micro level, if they are provided with some modern technical advantages it will be easier to uplift their business.


But their main concern is that they are deprived of those mechanical facilities due to lack of fund. Consequently this is also another main cause behind such unequal competition with the large scale ones.

There are another big issue about Hallmark. As gold is a life time investment and asset, market demand will be developed if Hallmark is introduced.

In rural areas install payment is another aspect of this business because those customers can never give one time payment. They are compelled to accept instalment payments for running their business as they have to face many other inconveniences or constraints. So this can be considered as a limitation of this business.

Wastage of materials is another kind of botheration. It has been noticed that more number of steps involved in processing lead to more wastage. For example, when gold transfers from hand to hand wastage is involved during the entire process from melting to making the final product and last but not the least finishing. This particular feature prevails amongst the entrepreneur of micro level. Their point of view is that if they can avail the modern technological facilities perhaps amount of wastage will decrease and accordingly wages will also decrease.

Government provides space to other craft clusters for marketing. As a result a direct communication exists between business men and buyers. The main drawback of the entrepreneurs is that they are not receiving any of such privileges from the government since today. Their earnest appeal is that if the government deals with the marketing side their business will flourish as it is not possible for the buyers to contact the entrepreneurs of micro level of the rural areas. If the government bridges the gap between the buyers and artisans, it will be easier for them to communicate. Besides, their product is so valuable that buyers and sellers have to bear the risk while travelling. If the entire process is done in an organized way, everybody will be benefited.

Their limitation is that they can not avail artisan card. The big concern is that the Government is unable to arrange loan facilities for them as they are not included in the area of crafts. This is now a big issue to them to take benefit of loans from the Government.

After the assessment my realization is their requirements should be urgently considered for their business promotion. Through this report I intend to highlight their problems.


The below mentioned fields have been discussed in this report which are required urgent attention and have been affecting the overall development of Ranaghat gold and silver jewellery cluster.

• Process and Techniques• Machines and Tools• Existing Products• Infrastructure and Working place • Display and Merchandising • Packaging• Market Analysis• Ergonomics • Hallmark• Wastage

Highlighted Core Issues


Aangti ( ring ) Pala badhano bala ( wristlet )

Nak chabi ( nose pin )Churri ( wristlet )

Existing Gold Products of Ranaghat Cluster


Churri ( wristlet )

Kaner dul ( ear rings ) Necklace

Hand chain


Rings Hand made chains

Hand made and machine made chains Ear tops


Existing Silver Products of Ranaghat Cluster

A photo of goddess ornaments


Goddess ornaments Nupur ( anklets ) Silver vessel


Silver ProductsTraditional Hand made Nupur (anklets)


Gold Making Process

Gold melting process is also same like silver, only copper and silver is mixed with gold instead of Cadium. Here, artisan sometime does this melting process in his own workshop. As gold cost is higher than silver. Then the material comes to the dice maker who cuts different shape and forms.

Dice making: A particular type of machine is used for making small forms. Dices of different forms have been made for this purpose. Pressure is created on the gold and silver sheet according to the form and ultimately design comes out of the dice.

Dice making Different forms for dice


Pattern making for gold: According to the design. wax is used to make the patterns. Here they followed few magazines for the patterns. The main object of using wax is to ensure that elements are not separated from each other. This wax is a black soil like special type of wax. White plaster is poured on the product after sticking it on wax. When Paris dries the product is tempered from behind and then welded. Consequently elements are joined with each other.

Pattern making on wax

Before welding

Welding


IssuesNeed a design development training

Lack of strength and skill to create new patterns and motifs, according to the market.

Lack of aesthetic quality to make a unique product.

Stone setting: Artisan needs to go outside to do this process. As in their cluster area they have not this kind of facility.

Cutting machine: This machine helps to develop carved designs. Usually short and long lines and rubbed surface texture is created on the product and this way design detailing is done with the help of the machine.

Detailing


Polishing

Shampoo polish Acid polish


Polishing: A special technique finishing or polishing is used after the product has been made. At first Bob polish machine is utilized. For this purpose a machine is placed behind the screen. A square opening exists on the screen and the expert with the help of this machine, hiding behind this screen. The object of putting up this screen is to avoid excessive wastage of material. After that H2SO4 and boiled water is mixed and the product is dipped into the solution for some time and then dipped into water. Then the product is dipped into a mixed solution of shampoo and water and placed on a machine. It is stirred for some time. The businessmen of this locality are used to polish the product following these three procedures.

IssuesAcid polish which is very dangerous for health and environment.

A Necklace


Trader buy raw material

Melting

Drawing wire and sheets

Chain and bolls

According to the market demand they can not make fine chain.

As they do not have the modern chain making technology facility

in their cluster area.

High cost of production

Wastage

Have to come Kolkata to buy or making the chain

ArtisansShaping gold according to

desired design

copy pattern from market available catalogue or give by the customer

Less technical facility in their workshop for

that they travel more

Welding, shouldring etc Polishing

Come to the shopor according to the order product goes

to the person

Gold Making Process Flow


Mostly all the units buy raw materials from different dealers. Silver melting: This process is very much important to prepare the final product from raw materials. Mainly cadium is added to soften the pure silver. Otherwise value assessment of silver is not possible for the customer. As it is a high cost material. So Cadium must be added in proportionate quantity.

Then it is poured in a pot and placed in a coke oven for melting. Before starting the process, quantity of raw material is to be measured to detect the amount of wastage. After that it is put in an oven glass blower which is used to increase heat at a uniform rate. Sudden application of excessive heat may cause the Cadium to dissipate. The solution is kept on the oven for 15-20 minutes.

Silver Making Process

Cadium

Raw material


The next step is to take out the molten material from there with the help of an earthen pot and pour on dices. Dices look like long sticks. Next, those sticks are to be immersed in two pots containing acid and water respectively. Then amount of wastage after melting is measured.

Issues

• Cadium crates unhygienic smoke. • Wastage of raw material is a serious issue in time of melting.

Brown smoke


Normal and acid water

Ready material


Ornaments

Making of wire: Wires of different gazes are made from the sticks.

Wire


There are different dices for this purpose. When sufficient wires are manufactured, they are shifted to the artisan’s workplace. The entrepreneur transfers the materials to the artisans after calculate the amount of material. The artisans receiving the wires develop design according to the demand or order. The artisans have dices of different sizes to make the wires fine. The wire is inserted inside the iron dice and then pulled enough to make them gradually thin.

Making patterns: Next process is to cut those wires into small pieces remaining their ends open. The process of ‘pan saja’ (making joint) is followed when fixed amount of chains are manufactured. This process means Cutting of small sizes of sheets and place them on every joint. After that welding is done with the help of a gas heater. Then chain rotate with a iron machine called ‘ghorna ’to make the dimensions of the chains flat. Different elements are used when the chains are finished according to the product specification like ball’, jhumka ring etc.

Different dices and tools


IssuesThis process is a very long and laborious to make one piece of chain and artisan wage is very low.Fine quality chain is not possible to make. Can not compete with current market, because lack of modern technology and skill. Mainly they can not make thin silver chain but according to them it has good demand in current market.

Joining process

Welding


Welding

Silver ornaments for god and goddess: Silver ornaments making for God and Goddess is a traditional craft in Shantipur, West Bengal. In the present time also this craft has a market demand. But this is true that they are facing few problems.

IssuesHigh price of raw material

This cluster does not have new machine to get the big size silver sheets. They out sourced from other place.

New generation is not skilled like the older master artisans. Lack of skill and labour.

Silver sheet

Drawing on tracing paper

Making patterns A photo of goddess ornaments


Polishing: Some techniques of polishing is used for silver after the product has been made. Bob polish and a mixture of shampoo and water solution are utilized.

IssuesCan not have elector plate polish.

Shampoo polishing machine


Silver Jewellery Making Process Flow

Trader buy raw material

Melting

Drawing wire and sheets

Chain and bolls

According to the market demand they can not make fine chain.

Have to come Kolkata to buy or making the chain

ArtisanShaping silver according to

desired design

Artisans make traditional pattern according to the

order

Small entrepreneurcan not fulfil

order

Welding, shouldring etc Polishing

Come to the shopor according to the order goes to the

person


For making thin sheets For drawing wires

For making dice

Cutting machine Rubbing machine

Raw Material, Machines and Tools

Raw material, gold Raw material, silver Silver with cadium


Different sizes of melting glass

Hammer Shaper

Plier

File

Tweezer

Doming block Wire drawer


Wax lamp Weight machine

Blowing pipe Ring sizes

Driller


Cutting machine

For polishingSulphuric acid and soda for polishing


Unit: 1Owner: Tarak KarmakarUnit name: New Laxmi Narayan JewellersPlace: RanaghatMode of craft: WholesalerHave been working for last 15 yearsProducts: Mainly golden jewelleryWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a dayContact details: 09475825359

IssuesLack of modern techniques and machinesHe can not make fine and thin golden chain according to the present market demand. As in his workshop he does not have new technical facility to make this kind of golden chain. For this reason he has to come to Kolkata to make or buy this kind of fine chain. So most of the time he needs to travel with gold material which makes a huge risk for him.

Quality of product can be developed

Market Can not compete with others, because lack of new design and techniques. Very much concentrated in local buyers, no such link up with other states.

Environment and health issueFew techniques of polishing are used after the product has been made. There is a finishing process which is done with Sulphuric acid and soda. When both of two ingredients are mixed together, it creates a gas which is very unhealthy smell. Everyday artisan takes this smell continuously.

Wastage issue

Storage of the products can be developed

Units Visited Pocket A (gold)


Can not make thin golden chain

Very low quality rings Sulphuric acid creates a unhealthy smell and smoke

Using plastic container to store products Sulphuric acid


Unit: 2Owner: Mangal TarafdarUnit name: Gyanoda JewellersPlace: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker), working for last 15 yearsProducts: Golden and silver jewellery, Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day Contact details: 09647486846

Gas cylinder

Issues• Lack of modern techniques and tools, can not compete with the market.• Quality of product can be developed• Workstation can be developed or organised• Wastage issue• Hallmark


Issues• Lack of modern techniques and tools• Lack of new form and pattern according to the competition market• Local oriented market• No facility to marketing the product• Workstation could be developed.

Unit: 3Owner: Madhab PodderUnit name: Podder Nose Pin Jewellery worksPlace: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker), working for last 20 yearsProduct: Mainly golden nose pinWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a dayContact details: 09434418854

Less space to work


Unit: 4 Owner: Paresh PatraUnit name: S.M JewellersPlace: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: SalesHave been working for last 16 yearsProduct: Golden and silver jewellery and silver vesselsWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a dayContact details: 09735629126

Issues• Lack of modern techniques and tools in his workshopTravel with material is a big issue.• Local oriented market• Less facility to marketing product• Packaging can be impressive • Lack of merchandizing facility• Hallmark issue

Not an impressive packaging


Unit: 5Owner: Palash BharatiUnit name: Palash Bharati JewellersPlace: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker)Have been working for last 10 yearsProducts: Golden and silver jewellery, Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a dayContact details: 09434249111

Issues• Less skill• Less strength of capacity• Small workplace• Lack of modern techniques and tools• Does not follow any market trend• Local oriented market• Less facility to marketing the product

work space


Unit: 6Owner: Biswajit KarmakarUnit name: Madhusudan JewellersPlace: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: SalesHave been working for last 20 yearsProduct: Golden and silver jewelleryWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a dayContact details: 09734934996

Issues• Less skill• Worker issue• Less strength of capacity• Small workplace• Lack of modern techniques and tools• Local oriented market• Less facility to marketing the product• Hallmark issue and artisan card


Unit: 7Owner: Dipankar SarkarUnit name: M / S Sarkar JewellersPlace: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker)Have been working for last 25 yearsProduct: Golden and silver jewelleryWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a dayContact details: 09434249111

Issues• Worker issue• Less strength of capacity• Small workplace• Product display• Lack of modern techniques and tools• Local oriented market• Less facility to marketing the product• Hallmark issue and artisan card

Not proper display


Unit: 8Owner: Gaur KarmakarUnit Name: Sandha JewellersPlace: UttarparaAge: Mode of craft: Garit (maker)Have been working for last 15 yearsProduct: Golden and silver jewelleryWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a dayContact details: 099434897922

Issues• Lack of modern techniques and tools • Product innovation• Display • Local oriented market• Less facility to marketing the product• Hall mark

Not proper display

Not proper display

•


Issues• Less strength of capacity• Lack of modern techniques and tools • Very small workplace• Product innovation• Does not have any showroom to display products• Packaging• Local oriented market• Less facility to marketing the product• Hall mark and artisan card

Unit: 9Owner: Binod Bihari KarmakarUnit Name: Siddeswari JewellersPlace: GangnapurAge: Mode of craft: Garit (maker)Have been working for last 25 yearsProduct: Golden and silver jewellery. Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a dayContact details: 09434432143

•


Unit: 10Owner: Ashim KarmakarUnit name: Arnab JewellersPlace: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker)Have been working for last 12 yearsProduct: Mainly golden nose pinWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day

Issues• Less strength of capacity• Very small workplace• Does not follow any trend• Product innovation• Local oriented market• Less facility to marketing the product• Artisan card

work space


Issues• Less strength of capacity• Lack of skill• Lack of modern techniques and machines in their workshop for this they are facing a high cost of production• Product innovation• Local oriented market• Less facility to marketing the product• Hallmark • Artisan card

Unit: 11Owner: Subir Kumar DeyUnit Name: Ramakrishna JewellersPlace: HabibpurAge: Mode of craft: Garit (maker)Have been working for last 12 yearsProduct: Golden and silver jewelleryWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a dayContact details: 09434822406

Unit: 12Owner: Biplab SahaUnit Name: Maa Dakshineswari JewellersPlace: DhantalaAge: Mode of craft: Garit (maker)Have been working for last 12 yearsProduct: Golden and silver jewelleryWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a dayContact details: 09733682785

Unit: 13Owner: Bimal RoyUnit Name: Laxmi Narayan JewellersPlace: PairadangaAge: Mode of craft: Garit (maker)Have been working for last 10 yearsProduct: Golden and silver jewelleryWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day

Issues• Less strength of capacity• Lack of modern technical facility• Very small workplace• Product innovation• Display• Packaging• Local oriented market• Less facility to marketing the product• Hallmark and artsan card

Not proper display and sometime with a plastic container they deliver the product to customer. Basically this is the style of their packaging.

•

Issues• Lack of modern technical facility for that cost of production is high.• Product innovation• Display• Packaging• Local oriented market• Less facility to marketing the product• Hallmark and artsan card

Unit: 14Owner: Shyamol SarkarUnit Name: Sarkar JewellersPlace: PairadangaAge: Mode of craft: SalesHave been working for last 11 yearsProduct: Golden and silver jewelleryWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a dayContact details: 09733770173

Randomly display

•


Pocket B (silver)

Unit: 5 Owner: Shyamal MondalUnit name: L.N. JewellersPlace: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: WholesalerHave been working for last 10 yearsProduct: Mainly silver chain, making gold jewellery tooWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a dayContact details: 09475920503

Issues• Product innovation and diversification• Lack of new technology, specially for silver melting process. As it effects a high cost factor.Silver chain making machine should not come to the cluster as it can effect on the artisans of Zaforpur and halalpur. As 100 families financially depend on this hand made craft.• Packaging• Local oriented market• Less facility to marketing the product


Unit: 16Owner: Ranjan BiswasUnit name: Biswas JewellersPlace: JafornagarAge: Mode of craft: Garit (maker)Have been working for last 15 yearsProduct: Silver chainWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a dayContact details: 09733768262

Issues• Process is laborious and time taking.If new technology can reduce the labour of the artisan and increase production capacity• Lack of technology to make fine thin silver chain which is not possible to make by hand• Lack of new technology• Artisan • Local oriented market• Less facility to marketing the product


Unit: 15Artisans: Monojit Roy and his wife (16)Place: JafornagarAge: 41Mode of craft: Garit (maker)Have been working for last 15 yearsProduct: Silver chainWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day

IssuesHe works for others. Traders give them silver wire and sheets to make chains and anklets of different design.• Handmade chain making process is very laborious.• According to the labour wages is very low.• Workplace could be developed. Natural light is mainly their source of light to work. • Storage of the product • Ergonomic

This kind of storage can break the continuity form of the chain or can lose. For this reason cost can be effected.


Unit: 14Owner: Ripan ModakPlace: JafornagarAge: 36 Mode of craft: Silver melting and wire making. Have been working for last 15 yearsProduct: Silver stick and wireWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day

Issues• Cadium smoke which is very unhygienic for health. • Worker needs to have this smoke everyday.• Workplace could be developed


Unit: 12Owner: Prosenjit SenUnit name: Rupsa Jewellers Place: ShantipurAge: Mode of craft: Garit (maker)Have been working for last 15 yearsProduct: Mainly silver products, including gold Working hours: Average 8-10 hours in a dayContact details: 09153431032

Issues• Lack of new technology, specially for minakari, big size silver sheet and gold chain making machine• Artisan, lack skilled of young generation • Quality of the product is low now. Because high cost of raw material. Customer can not effort pure silver or 100% silver • Packaging• Display• Local oriented market• Less facility to marketing the product

Not proper display


Used this colour to create a minakari look on the silver Randomed display

For packagingDoes not have facility to make big silver sheetCommon design


Unit: 11Master artisan: Shasanko PramanikPlace: ShantipurAge: 60Mode of craft: Garit (maker)Have been working for last 40 yearsProduct: Mainly silver ornaments for god and goddess and other silver jewelleryWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a day

He works for others. Traders give him silver wire and sheets to make different traditiona design of ornaments for goddess and others.

Issues• Workplace could be organised• New tools and technique which can help artisan to less laborious his work.• New motifs and patterns can introduced for the goddess ornaments.• Ergonomic


Unit: 13Owner: Dinesh KarmakarUnit name: Raj Laxmi Jewellers Place: Shantipur Age: Mode of craft: Garit (maker)Have been working for last 15 yearsProduct: Silver and gold jewelleryWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a dayContact details: 09046545736

Issues• Lack of new technology• Artisan, lack skilled of young generation • Artisans keep migrate for good wage• Packaging• Display• Local oriented market• Less facility to marketing the product


Unit: 7Owner: Proddut ChowdhuryUnit name: Produut JewellersPlace: Ranaghat Age: Mode of craft: WholesalerHave been working for last 10 yearsProduct: Silver productsWorking hours: Average 8-10 hours in a dayContact details: 09434370475

Issues• Product innovation• Workplace could be organized• Packaging• Local oriented market• Less facility to marketing the product

Packaging can be changed


Scope for Research and Development Direction for Future Initiatives

IssuesSmall entrepreneurs of this cluster do not have sufficient funds or expertise to continue research and development on a regular basic.

Can not effort modern technology or do not have resources to introduce modern technology.

Quality of product is compromised due to lack of skill and technology.

OpportunitiesThrough R&D activities machinery, tooling and process can be developed.

Need a common facility centre (CFC) where the cluster people can get the new facility of technology. It could help them to organise their working system.

Research in terms of consumer demand, trends and competition in the local market, domestic and international market.


Study of Existing Product Design, Redesign, New Product Development and Diversification

IssuesThe existing products of Ranaghat jewellery cluster are copied from catalogue available in the market or provided to them by the traders.

The products are not made of 100% real gold and silver. Copper and silver are mixed with gold and cadium mixed with silver. Because of high cost of material customers can not afford 100 % gold and silver.

The products are made of various qualities depending on the requirement of the traders / customers.

Mostly they have two kind of business strategy. Some of units are manufacturer or retailer and some of are whole seller.

Lack of strength and skill to create new patterns and motifs, according to the market.

Lack of aesthetic quality to make a unique product.

Some of the existing jewellery pieces are heavy and only used on occasions such as marriages and festivals.

The quality and purity of gold and silver is doubtful and there is no method available in the cluster to measure it.

Less use of stone with the product. As lack of skill and facility they have to go outside to do this process.

There is no such product diversification, no coordination of the product.

OpportunitiesThere is a good scope for design development or redesign of the products.

The existing traditional products could be more contemporised and relevant, less laborious. New motifs can be developed from their daily life or to inspire from their local heritage.

The elements from the existing traditional jewellery can be used for new product development and diversification. Product can be co-ordinated with other jewellery.

Surface finish, textures can be introduced.

Using local traditional motifs will give the product an identity.

Improve the aesthetic of the product in terms of detailing of the form, patterns and closing. Quality can be improved.


Study of Existing Product Design, Redesign, New Product Development and Diversification

69

Outdated findings

Source of the design is catalogue.

Outdated closings Outdated findings

Need innovative design

Not unique, outdated

Heavy ornament


Existing Status and Opportunity for Display, Branding and Communication Design

IssuesMost of the units have display area or showroom. But very few have impressive showrooms to showcase their products properly.

Not proper brochure, catalogues are being used. They have a website called www.alibaba.com, but not impressive to sell directly to the consumer.

Cluster people does not have a facility to exhibit their products.

OpportunitiesBrochure and proper catalogue would help them to expand their markets. Websites will help in expanding export markets.

The existing units with display need to upgrade and improve their existing displays.

Government could provide a marketing facility for this cluster.


Scope of Technology, Modernization and Design Collaborations

IssuesBecause lack of modern technology, they faced a serious issue of wastage and need to travel more.

There is no facility of CAD design.

According to the market trend or demand they can not make very fine and light chain. As do not have chain making machine facility.

For the big silver sheet, they need to go to Kolkata. Do not have big sheet making machine.

The process of making handmade silver chain is very lengthy and laborious. It does not make artisan happy as they can not get a good amount of wage.

In the cluster there is only one casting place. So it causes less production of bulk orders of the same product.

They do not have stone setting machine in their cluster. So they have to go to Kolkata for this process.

There is no modern facility for polishing.

Hand made chain

Hand made chain

OpportunitiesScope of design intervention in tool development at every level of process to make the process fast and would be helpful in manufacturing fine and quality product.

Need a common facility centre (CFC) to reduce the wastage in the process and get the technical facility which can help artisans to increase their productivity and reduce their labour, especially for handmade silver making artisans.

New polishing method can be introduced for both silver and gold.


Give a minakari look on the silver Machine made chain Big silver sheet can not produce in the cluster

Do not have stone setting facility To make hand made silver chain takes a long time to produce


Design Opportunity in Workstation and Tooling Design

IssuesUsed tools are outdated. It takes a long time in the production.

Work place is not appropriate, not organized. Sometime artisans used wax lamp for welding. They have gas blower but icost high.

OpportunitiesScope of design intervention in tool development at every levelof process to make the process fast and would be helpful inmanufacturing fine and quality product.

Would be the process less tiring and laborious.

Organized work stations at CFC to improve the way of their business.


Market Analysis and Competition Study for Design Advantage

Present marketing scenario and competition

Mostly they have two kind of business strategy. Some of units aremanufacturer and some of are whole seller.

Artisans are mostly dependent on local and domestic market. There do not have no such exporter include in their business. Few units do not have direct market linkages for sale their products, but most of have.

Do not have international exposer for selling their products.

In rural areas install payment is another aspect of this businessbecause those customers can never give one time payment. They are compelled to accept instalment payments for running their business as they have to face many other inconveniences or constraints. So in this cluster this can be considered as a limitation of their business.

Lack of modern technology is also a weakness to compete with the present market.

Role of mediators is not decided.

OpportunitiesCoordination of accessories could make an impression on thecustomer.

Using traditional local motifs which can create an identity of their products.

They can introduce new contemporised accessories for daily used purpose.

They can participate in the different exhibition which also can expand their market.


Description of Ergonomic and Environment Factors in MSME Premise

Working at night under a bulb light can effect eye sight

Sitting on floor and working for long hours can lead to back pain


Cadium’s smoke Cadium’s smoke

Sulphuric acid gas is extremely harmful for health and environment (one of polishing method)

Cadium crates unhygienic smoke.

Natural light is the source of work


Packaging, Logistics and Storage Related Design Opportunities

Usually, different types of papers are used for packaging butsometimes pink kite papers are also used. Most of the times,packaging is done by wrapping the product with this paper orsometime used different boxes.

Product packaging should be given emphasis. The idea behindpackaging that is to present something to customers should bedeveloped on an urgent basis.

IssuesThere is no concept of packaging at the cluster level. Accordingto their capacity or strength retailer has used different kind ofcontainer for packaging of the product.

Every units do not follow a good presentation to impresscustomers. As gold and silver both of these are a valuableproduct. So it is important to improve their packaging style.

No unique identity for the cluster. Everybody used same kind ofboxes, bags or container.

Products are kept either in a container or kept in a plasticpouch, leads to breakage and wear.

OpportunitiesNeed to understand them the value of a good presentation tothe customers.

This would be a challenge for the product designer to replacethe packaging style with a financially viable material..New packaging design can be introduced such as string paperand cloth bags or boxes using traditional essence. Probablythese bags will create a unique identity to the Ranaghat cluster.

Although this packaging should be cost effective butimpressive.

A good packaging can help them to improve their businessstrategy.

Pink paper used for silver and gold packaging



Using plastic container to store products

Using plastic container to store products



Hallmark

Everyone wants their belongings to be safe and secure. There are many things that one wants to keep safe. When it comes to security it is very difficult to have faith on anyone. But if we talk about jewellery then Hallmark is the best way to secure jewellery.

Here, in this cluster now Hallmark is a big issue to the entrepreneur. They have an appeal to the Government. If the Government can provide the benefit of Hallmark especially for the cluster area it will be more beneficial for the business because consumers always want to spend their money on genuine products. As gold is a life time investment and asset, market demand will be developed if Hallmark is introduced. Then local customers will prefer to buy products from them instead of visiting big city show rooms. Consequently their savings will increase.

Courtesy www.google.com


Wastage of materials is another kind of botheration. It has beennoticed that more number of steps involved in processing leadto more wastage. For example, when gold transfers from handto hand wastage is involved during the entire process frommelting to making the final product and last but not the leastfinishing. Mainly this wastage happens because they do nothave every facility to make a product. For an example who iscreating the main form, he does not have the facility of melting,polishing, casting or dicing etc. So person need to go here andthere to make the final product. This way commonly the amountof wastage of a product increase and simultaneously wages ofthe product also increase. 50 milligram wastage of gold valueis 160 rupees. This particular feature prevails amongst theentrepreneur of micro level. Their point of view is that if theycan avail the modern technological facilities perhaps amount ofwastage will decrease and accordingly wages will also decrease.

IssueCost of production is very high because of the wastage in everystage.

Recommendation: Need a common facility centre to solve the issue of wastage.

Wastage and Cost of Production


Exhibition or Display design Opportunities

IssuesCan not get any opportunity to participate in the exhibition orfairs.

OpportunitiesArtisans can participate in trade fair at state, national andinternational level.

Products can be displayed through exhibition in various cities.


Scope of Design Intervention

Skill up gradationDevelop their knowledge about aesthetic and unique product.To create new forms or patterns. Develop new designs andpatterns according to the target market. Develop designs inseries, so they can treat as a set of jewellery.

Product finishing, packaging.

Upgrade infrastructureDesign the space and infrastructurefrom the production point of view.

Introduce new techniques and tools.

Hallmark facility

Reduce Wastage

Design interventionDevelop new product range according to targetmarket in or outside country. Quality control must required.

New Market

Better display and retail outlets. Website, package graphics,brochures and branding may help.


C O N C L U S I O N


StrengthThis craft heritage is an age old historical system. Market demand for ornaments prevails now and will be prevalent even in future.

Availability of raw material.

There is no scarcity for skilled artisans.

There is ample scope for working traditional forms, motives, designs, small space infrastructure- all these are their plus points.

WeaknessesLess strength of unity.

Small scale entrepreneurs are not able to compete properly with the market competition.

They are constrained with lack of sufficient unity, labour problems, issues related to health hazards and environment, wastage of raw material in every step etc.

Another concern is high cost of raw material. They are compelled to back out as they are devoid of marketing facilities.

Product specialization and product awareness is a must.

No testing lab for research and technical suggestion. There is no protocol is made to check the quality of the

products and process at various level.

Most of the units do not have marketing arrangement for export.

OpportunitiesNew design invention is required for business development.

There is ample scope for new surface design and product designs according to the current market.

There is scope for lifestyle accessories, domestic and export market.

More employment opportunities will crop up if new technology, form, shape and product are introduced. ThreatMost of the times, designs are directly replicated from the competitors. There is also lack of awareness.

Labourer migrates from one place to another as they have no steady jobs. Sometimes labourers threaten the entrepreneurs to resign from their jobs owing to their market demand.

The new generation does not want to involve in this business.

They are not able to communicate with the buyers as they do not follow any trend. There is lack of story-making for buying products.

SWOT Analysis


For sustainable market

Improved Quality

Government Organisations

Sustain long term market

more scope to expand market

Design Consultancy

Research

MerchandisingPackagingBranding

NationalInternational Market

Increase quality market

Scope for more employment

New Designs and Product

Designers and technical person

involved

Workshops for different

stage

Increase in number of skilled

artisans

Research Labs

Required interventions

New Interventions in tooland techniques.

Skill up gradation andtraining programmes

Research and Documentation

A future vision


Issues

Unit level issues

High price cost of raw materialWork station

Tools and technical Wastage in every stage

Labour skillsLabour availabilityLab testing facility

Quality checkInvestment

Labour shifts from one unit to another

Because lack of technical issue can not compete to current

market andcan not make unique productAwareness about trends and

ethnicNew product development

Motifs and patterns development

HallmarkDisplay

MarketingNational and

International marketSometime no direct communication with

the byers

Urban trendsTechnical support

Common Facility Centre (CFC)Loan policies for artisans

Artisan cardUrban trends

MarketsExhibition space

Direct communication with the byers

Cluster level issues National level issues


A Five-Day Design

W O R K S H O P


WORKSHOPAfter the conclusion and the submission of Need Assessment Survey Report under the Design Clinic Scheme, a Five - Day Workshop was conducted at the Ranaghat Silver and Gold

Jewellery Cluster in Ranaghat, Nadia ( West Bengal ).

The workshop was aimed based on the problems and opportunities identified during the Need Assessment Survey.

The workshop was organized to give the artisans a few immediate design solutions for identified opportunities for design

intervention from the existing problems.

As per the Need Assessment Survey one of the main focus area was on improvement their design process of making new

patterns and motifs and gave them ideas on how they could sell their own creative products in the market. Therefore, for the

workshop Ms. Indira Basu was invited from Kolkata who has been practicing design based on packaging and marketing of

products for several years.


Few photos from workshop


SL NO NAME CONTACT NUMBER1 SUBIR KUMAR DEY 094348224062 PALASH BHARATI 090932737573 BINOD BIHARI KARMOKAR 094344321434 DIPANKAR SARKAR 094342491115 BISWAJIT KARMOKAR 097349349966 AMIT SHARMA 097325260077 PRADYUT CHOUDHURY 094343704758 MADHAP PODDER 094344188549 DEBONISTHA SARKAR 0947736778410 NANDA GOPAL DEY 0973362336411 MONGOL TARAFDAR 0964748684612 SHYAMOL MONDAL 0947592050313 SHYAMOL SARKAR 09733710173

• There were few guest artists and artisans in the workshop. They attended workshop for mostly one day.

List of Participants


Design Clinic Workshop Schedule

There was a good response for the workshop and more than 13 participants registered for the workshop. Participants were divided into three different groups and the workshop was continued with same group of people. Later They came up with few ideas of design patterns individually.

Day One to Day Five

Morning Session• Registration• Inauguration Session• Presentation on issues based on Need Assessment Survey • Presentation on different kinds of jewellery

Afternoon Session• Introduction to create new forms and motifs• Introduction to Jewellery design• Jewellery packaging design and marketing• Feedback, Closing Session and Way Ahead

In the end an interactive session was conducted in which the invited artisans and entrepreneurs of different units askedtheir queries from the invited Government Officials and Experts regarding the scheme and the solutions of the problemwhich they are facing in the process.

Registration and Inauguration


Presentation and Introduction on Different Kinds of Jewellery Design

Few slides from presentation

Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013 Art and Fashionable jewellery

The collection of Ranaghat jewellery has been limited. As some of the traditional jewellery styles in Ranaghatl are bulky and is not feasible to wear it on daily basis. Mostly the demand of their jewellery is for weddings or any other occasions purpose. New designs are mostly copied from different jewellery catalogues. Mostly the artisans don’t make new designed products, they generally act as manufacturers for the middlemen who give them designs from magazines, existing catalogues in the market as per the market requirement.

So it was realized during the Need Assessment Survey that it is important to introduce the artisans with new possibilities in jewellery design.

During the workshop the artisans were given ideas on possible variations of the existing designs for them to explore and for their reference. A set of natural forms were given to them to understand forms and guide them to develop forms from nature surrounding materials. Mostly it was an aimed to make them understand how they can create new jewellery library for Ranaghat cluster.

The artisans liked the ideas and the process for new product developments which will in future add to there set of existing designs.


Design on necklace

Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013

Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013, in this page all photos have taken from this site


Few slides from presentation

Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013 Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013


Designer collection Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013 Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013 Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013


Design on wristlet Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013


Design on wristletCourtesy: www.google.com, 2013 Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013


Piercing could a different kind of jewellery to use for on going fashion.

Design for nose pins

Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013


Design on ankletsCourtesy: www.google.com, 2013 Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013, in this page all photos have taken from this site


Designer collection, theme based jewellery, concept of these products is water.

Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013, in this page all photos

have taken from this site.


Designer collection, concept of this product is flower. Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013


Designer collection, textural jewellery Courtesy: www.google.com, 2013, in this page all photos

have taken from this site.


Trendy Jewellery, used in different way or style.


Targeted client, product could diverse, availability of the material, trendy jewellery, reasonable pricing, could be effecting with other materials


Presentation on Issues Based on Need Assessment Survey

Not a proper display

Suggested solution for display their product


Suggested solution on new technology and finishing

Outdated closings Outdated findings


Suggested solution on product. Product could light, textural, diverse and men could one of client for jewellery


Suggested solution on packaging design. This cluster can create their own identity through attractive packaging.


Introduction to Create New Forms and Motifs


A set of natural forms were given to them to understand forms and guide them to develop forms from nature and surrounding

materials. Mostly it was an aimed to make them understand how they can create new jewellery library for Ranaghat cluster.


Drawing and sketches done by participants


Few drawings and sketches have been developed by artisans. They have derived this forms from those selected themes given to them. After doing this design process they have understood the way to create new designs for jewellery. This was a two

days schudle programme in the workshop. Later few has come with their design. The artisans liked the ideas and the process for new product developments which will in future add to there set of existing designs.


Drawing and sketches done by participants


This golden pendent was done by Mr. Amit Sharma, one of artisan in the workshop


This golden ear set was done by Mr. Subir Kumar Dey, one of artisan in the workshop.


This silver ear set was done by Mr. Pradyut Choudhary, one of artisan in the workshop.


This silver ear sets were done by Mr. Shaymol Sarkar, one of artisan in the workshop.


Introduction to Packaging Design and Marketing


Ms. Indira Basu was there in the workshop to share ideas on marketing and packaging. Why and how it is important for a product to sell in the market. She shared the story of the famous brand Tiffany & Co. to artisans. The story was based on how this brand came in the market, what is their product line and how they create a final look to their clients. Mainly this story telling was to open up artisan’s mind.

Lastly she shared one of her work which she was done based on marketing a jewellery brand called KAHON. This brand is based in Calcutta.


Sharing ideas on packaging design in the workshop


Sharing ideas on packaging design


Sharing ideas on marketing


Ideas of different contemporary jewellery


Snap shot on a feed back form


Few Interventions Proposed for Uplifting the Ranaghat Jewellery Cluster

• Improvement in the present quality of products with better finishing, quality of raw materials.

• New design development.

• Create a new design library for this cluster.

• Create their own identity for the cluster.

• Product Diversification such as hairpins, men oriented jewellery, pier sing, cuff links etc. to reach a larger clients.

• Not to make heavy jewellery artisans could make light trendy jewellery for daily use.

• Improvement in Packaging Design and Branding for the Ranaghat Silver and Gold Jewellery Cluster.

• Establishing proper infrastructure support for research and development, technological facilities, funding etc.

• Tie-ups with designers, experts and technical people from different places.

• Design workshops can provide training to artisans along with generating continuous innovative market friendly designs.

• Design projects to specifically cater towards participating and getting orders through exhibitions.

ranaghat gold & silver jewellery clusterdesignclinicsmsme.org/design awareness programme...

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