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Page 1: Training Manual - Keratin Complex€¦ · Semi-Permanent Color (n.) Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant art form we admire. Why we love it: • Dynamic

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Your color, imagined.

Training Manual

Page 2: Training Manual - Keratin Complex€¦ · Semi-Permanent Color (n.) Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant art form we admire. Why we love it: • Dynamic

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Table of Contents04 Keratin Complex® Color Story

06 How does Keratin Complex Color work?

08 Hair Structure

10 Hair Color

12 The Law of Color

14 Developers/Llightener

15 Decolorizing Process

16 Gray Coverage/Formulations

17 Permanent Color

20 Demi–Permanent Color

20 Semi-Permanent Color

21 Lightener

22 Bond Rebuilder

23 Best Practices

Page 3: Training Manual - Keratin Complex€¦ · Semi-Permanent Color (n.) Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant art form we admire. Why we love it: • Dynamic

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Our Company:Since the launch of our signature Smoothing Therapy in 2007, Keratin Complex® has become the market leader in the smoothing category and has revolutionized the color industry with Keratin Complex Color, a complete keratin-enhanced hair color line. We continue to develop breakthroughs in keratin technology with the expansion of our professional and retail collections, along with new programs and services that build brand partnerships, enhance stylists’ knowledge and skills, and boost salon business.

Our Mission:We strive for product innovation, educational support and superior results to enhance the craft of cosmetology for the benefit of the salon industry, salon professionals and consumers.

Our Principles:• Offer breakthrough technology for superior results

• Enhance cosmetologist skills

• Develop new services that create value and enhance salon business

• Create an inspirational partnership with salon professionals

• Assist in elevating the unique culture and business atmosphere of the beauty industry

Page 4: Training Manual - Keratin Complex€¦ · Semi-Permanent Color (n.) Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant art form we admire. Why we love it: • Dynamic

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From the innovators of the smoothing industry comes Keratin Complex Color, a revolutionary

keratin-enhanced hair color line. Powered by our Advanced Keratin technology, Ceramides and

BotanicalPowerblend™, our proprietary formula synergistically restores, strengthens and improves

the overall integrity of the hair while delivering exceptional gray coverage, long-lasting vibrant

reds and superior high-lift blondes. The collection includes KeraLuminous™ Permanent Color,

KeraBrilliance® Demi-Permanent Color, and GraffitGlam™ Semi-Permanent Color.

KeraLuminousTM Permanent Color

KeraLuminous Permanent Color is 100% oxidative color that delivers rich, vibrant and precise results.

Why we love it: • Improves the overall integrity of the hair while delivering exceptional gray

coverage, long-lasting radiant reds and superior high-lift blondes

• Unique technology features a combination of Advanced Keratin and Ceramides that help reduce porosity for long-lasting, even color and increased strength

• Intense Neutral Series provides exceptional gray coverage and longevity

• Ultra-nourishing cream formula

• BotanicalPowerblend™ creates a touchable, softer, smoother, shinier and more youthful-looking hair

• Fully intermixable shades create an infinite array of vibrant color results

Keratin Complex® Color Story

Page 5: Training Manual - Keratin Complex€¦ · Semi-Permanent Color (n.) Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant art form we admire. Why we love it: • Dynamic

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KeraBrilliance® Demi-Permanent Color

KeraBrilliance Demi-Permanent Color delivers maximum shine and limitless color possibilities, creating brilliant, reflective results.

Why we love it: • Advanced Keratin technology and Ceramides create a superior end

result by: - enhancing the tone - controlling unwanted tones - balancing color from base to ends

• Rich conditioning cream

• BotanicalPowerblend™, ammonia-free formula helps restore strength to damaged hair

• Concentrated Micronized Pigments provide up to 100% gray blending

• Unique blend increases moisture retention, creating a touchable, soft, silky texture

• Intermixable brilliant shades for endless color possibilities

GraffitiGlamTM Semi-Permanent Color

(n.) Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant art form we admire.

Why we love it:• Dynamic collection of 10 vibrant semi-permanent shades + Clear is

designed to inspire every colorist to unleash his/her wwcreativity and make a color statement

• Our Advanced Keratin and Ceramides help even out color to creat bold, expressive color or soft pastel shades with Clear

• 10 shades + Clear available in a convenient pre-packed kit

Page 6: Training Manual - Keratin Complex€¦ · Semi-Permanent Color (n.) Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant art form we admire. Why we love it: • Dynamic

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How does Keratin Complex® Color work?

Over time, keratin is depleted from the hair due to a variety of environmental factors and daily stressors.

chlorine & salt water

drugstore shampoo

age

at-home hair color

sun

heat styling

PROBLEM: Damaged Hair

Page 7: Training Manual - Keratin Complex€¦ · Semi-Permanent Color (n.) Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant art form we admire. Why we love it: • Dynamic

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SOLUTION: 3 Simultaneous Step Technology

Once the formula is applied, our proprietary Advanced Keratin and Ceramide blend fills uneven surfaces in the cuticle and structurally rein-forces the Cell Membrane Complex, thereby, strengthening and protect-ing damaged hair. This unique blend creates a shield that protects the cu-ticle while reducing UV damage and preventing signs of hair aging.

As the overall integrity of the hair is improved by the Advanced Keratin and Ceramide blend, the Concen-trated Micronized Pigments drive deep into the cortex and link firmly together. The color molecules are evenly dispersed throughout the hair shaft to ensure maximum color penetration and saturation.

BotanicalPowerblend™ continues to help restore health to the hair with its nourishing, conditioning and moisturizing properties.

The result is smooth, healthy-look-ing hair that has beautiful shine.

BotanicalPowerblend Concentrated Micronized pigments

CeramideAdvanced Keratin

Step 1

Step 3

Step 2

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Hair Structure

To achieve a successful hair coloring service, you need to consider the technique, the type of hair coloring products being used and the integrity of the hair itself.

Components CUTICLEOutermost protective layer, consists of 6 to 8 translucent overlapping scale-like layers that surround the hairs.

CORTEXCortical center gives the hair its strength, elasticity, flexibility and color

CELL MEMBRANE COMPLEX (CMC)The “glue” that binds hair components together. It is the pathway for micro-pigments (hair dyes) traveling into the hair.

MEDULLAInnermost Layer

Hair Structure

Cuticle

Medulla

Cotex

Page 9: Training Manual - Keratin Complex€¦ · Semi-Permanent Color (n.) Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant art form we admire. Why we love it: • Dynamic

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Hair Porosity

Low Porosity High Porosity

Thin Medium ThickThin Medium ThickThin Medium Thick

Hair Density

Thin Medium Thick

DENSITYDensity is determined by the amount of hair per square inch. Hair color can be influenced by density because it affects the way light is reflected or absorbed.

POROSITYThe ability of the hair to absorb water or other liquids. The higher the porosity, the easier and faster it will absorb, but the less capable of retaining the absorption.

Fine Medium Coarse

Hair Strand Diameter

Characteristics TEXTUREDiameter of individual hair strands

Fine: Fine hair is more receptive to lightening or depositing hair color

Medium: Medium/average hair is the ideal hair type when lightening or depositing hair color since it is used as a basis for color manufacturers

Coarse: Coarse hair is less receptive during lightening or depositing hair color due to a larger cortex ratio

Page 10: Training Manual - Keratin Complex€¦ · Semi-Permanent Color (n.) Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant art form we admire. Why we love it: • Dynamic

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Hair Color

Types of Pigment NATURAL PIGMENTNatural pigment refers to naturally occurring color, called melanin. These pigments are the primary factor in determining natural hair color.

The distribution of melanin throughout the hair creates the entire spectrum of hair color — from black to blonde — and every variation of tone — from cool to warm.

Red, yellow and blue are made up of two distinct types of melanin that appear and behave very differently from one another.

MELANINEumelanin (brown-black)

Provides natural color ranging from black to dark brown.

Provides natural color ranging from red and ginger to yellow and blonde

Pheomelanin (red-yellow)

Both types of melanin are present in all hair, but at different levels. The more eumelanin, the darker the hair color, and the larger the eumelanin molecules. If less eumelanin is present, the hair is lighter and the eumelanin molecules are smaller. The amount of total pigment dictates how light or dark the hair is.

ARTIFICAL PIGMENTS Artificial pigments are designed to mimic the appearance and composition of natural hair color that fall into two different categories: Direct and Oxidative

Direct: Pigments are pre-developed or staining pigments that deposit visible color on contact. Direct pigments deposit on and in between cuticle layers.

Oxidative: Pigments react with oxidizing agents (hydrogen peroxide), combining together at up to 300 times their normal size as they couple with oxidized natural melanin to form a new color.

Melanin

Eumelanin PheomelaninEumelanin Pheomelanin

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Color Wheel/Color Defined PRIMARY COLORSRed, yellow and blue are the building blocks of all color. Primary colors are pure and cannot be created by mixing other colors together. Combinations of primaries create all other colors.

SECONDARY COLORSSecondary colors are made by mixing two primary colors together.

• Yellow + Red = Orange• Red + Blue = Violet • Blue + Yellow = Green

TERTIARY COLORS Intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts.

• Yellow + Orange = Yellow-Orange • Blue + Violet = Blue-Violet • Red + Orange = Red-Orange

The Color Wheel is an essential tool for stylists when manipulating hair color, which is formulated from a combination of primary, secondary and tertiary colors.

Categories of Hair Color PERMANENT • Contains oxidative dye loads • Provides 100% gray coverage • Permanently lightens, darkens or provides a tonal change to the hair• Mix with 10 volume, 20 volume, 30 volume or 40 volume developer• Provides permanent results

DEMI–PERMANENT • Contains no ammonia • Deposits color pigment onto and into the hair cuticle • Provides tonal change, or darkens hair • Mixed with 6 volume activator • Lasts 4-6 weeks

SEMI-PERMANENT • Contains no ammonia • No lift deposits, only hair color • Provides tone-on-tone coloring • Contains direct pigments• Not mixed with a developer • Lasts 4-6 shampoos

Semi-permanent hair color

Demi-permanent hair color

Permanent hair color

Color Wheel

Yellow Orange

Red Orange

Red

Orange

Yellow Green

Blue Green

Blue VioletRed Violet

Blue

Green

Yellow

Violet

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There are only two ways to describe color:LEVEL/DEPTH Levels are categorized from 1 to 10 to coincide with natural levels. The lower the number, the darker the hair.

Example: Level 1 is the darkest (black) and Level 10 is the lightest (ultra-light blonde). These correspond to the Keratin Complex® Neutral (N) Series.

Neutral Series swatches should be used to identify the natural and/or starting level. Identifying the natural level is important for color formulation, as the natural hair color and the artificial pigment both determine the final result.

The “Law of Color” states that two opposite colors on the color wheel will counteract each other when put side by side, and neutralize each other when mixed together.

NATURAL COLORSEach natural hair color level contains a certain amount of red, yellow and blue pigments. Identifying the natural level is important for color formulations, as the natural hair color and artificial pigment both determine the final result. The greater the concentration of blue, red and yellow, the darker the hair color will be. Less concentration of blue, red and yellow, the lighter the hair will be.

Color Levels

+ + =

+ + =

+ + =

COMPLEMENTARY COLORS

9.0/9N – Lightest Blonde

8.0/8N – Light Blonde

7.0/7N – Medium Blonde

6.0/6N – Dark Blonde

5.0/5N – Light Brown

4.0/4N – Medium Brown

3.0/3N – Dark Brown

2.0/2N – Darkest Brown

10.0/10N – Ultra-Light Blonde

1.0/1N – Black.

The Law of Color

Light Blue, Red, Yellow

Mid Blue, Red, Yellow

Dark Blue, Red, Yellow

Page 13: Training Manual - Keratin Complex€¦ · Semi-Permanent Color (n.) Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant art form we admire. Why we love it: • Dynamic

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TONE/HUE — CHARACTERISTICS OF COLORTone (also referred to as “hue”) refers to the underlying color of the hair. Tones are categorized as warm, neutral or cool, and are usually part of the shade description.

Example: Keratin Complex® has a Level 8 Blonde family; a Level 8.3/8G Golden Blonde, a Level 8.4/8C Coppery Blonde and a Level 8.1/8A Ash Blonde. The gold, copper and ash give the light blonde its own characteristic of color.

LEVEL SYSTEM & SHADE IDENTIFIERThe level and tone identifiers represent the relationship between the natural level and tone.

8.43/8CG8 describes the level of the color4 describes the primary tone of the color3 describes the secondary tone of the color CG = Copper Gold

Use the chart here to identify the specific number and letter representation for each tone. The shade names and base tones are also included.

BASENUMBER LETTER SHADE NAME

.0 N NEUTRAL RED, BLUE, YELLOW

.1 A ASH BLUE

.2 V VIOLET VIOLET

.3 G GOLD YELLOW

.4 C COPPER ORANGE

.5 M MAHOGANY RED VIOLET

.6 R AUBURN RED

. .7 GN MATTE GREEN

Level & Tone Identifier Chart

Example:

The tone is the shade (characteristic or hue) of the color. The Keratin Complex® color system utilizes both single- and double-tone shades. The secondary tone can either emphasize or modify the primary tone.

Example: An 8.43 is Level 8. The primary tone (.4/Copper) is warm, as is the secondary tone (.3/Gold). Therefore, the secondary tone emphasizes the warmth of the shade.

Example: 7.32/7GV is Level 7. The primary tone (.3/Gold) is warm and the secondary tone (.2/Violet) is cool. Therefore, the secondary tone modifies the warmth of the shade.

8.03/8NG 8.00/8NN 8.1/8A

Tone/Hue Example

Page 14: Training Manual - Keratin Complex€¦ · Semi-Permanent Color (n.) Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant art form we admire. Why we love it: • Dynamic

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Developers/Lightener

Keratin Complex® Keratin-Enhanced Developers are infused with Hydrolyzed Keratin, Silk Amino Acids and Hydrolyzed Collagen.

Hydrolyzed Keratin: Helps protect the hair and gives it strength as it fills porosity

Silk Amino Acids: Aids in moisture retention and restores moisture balance

Hydrolyzed Collagen: Enhances softness and shine

This specific blend of ingredients works synergistically with the Keratin Complex Color line. These chemicals make up the remainder of the ingredients to function properly with conditioning agents.

Keratin Complex Activator works in tandem with KeraBrillance® Demi-Permanent Color.

The 10, 20, 30 and 40 Volume Developers work with KeraLuminous™ Permanent Color.

Philosophy of Developers The higher the volume of the developer, the more oxygen is present. Therefore, more levels of lift are achievable. The lower the volume of the developer, there is less lift during the chemical action.

Usage Guidelines ACTIVATORRecommended for depositing, toning and corrective color when used with KeraBrilliance Demi-Permanent Color.

10 VOLUMERecommended for up to 1 level of lift, depositing, toning and gray coverage on fine hair when used with KeraLuminous Permanent Color.

20 VOLUME Recommended for up to 2 levels of lift, for optimal gray coverage when used with KeraLuminous Permanent Color.

30 VOLUMERecommended for up to 3 levels of lift when used with KeraLuminous Permanent Color.

40 VOLUMERecommended for up to 4 levels of lift when used with KeraLuminous High Lift Permanent Color.

Page 15: Training Manual - Keratin Complex€¦ · Semi-Permanent Color (n.) Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant art form we admire. Why we love it: • Dynamic

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Decolorizing Process

During the lifting process, warm pigments called “underlying pigments” are visible. Each level of hair color has its own underlying pigment (red, orange, yellow, or a combination) that is exposed when hair is lightened.

Depending on the desired results, these contributing pigments can either be enhanced or neutralized.

Below are the natural levels, corresponding underlying pigments and their neutralizing tones.

The level and tone identifiers represent the relationship between the natural level and tone.

Example:

8.43/8CG

8 describes the level of the color

4 describes the primary tone of the color

3 describes the secondary tone of the color CG = Copper Gold

Color Theory

The tone is the shade (characteristic or hue) of the color. The Keratin Complex color system utilizes both single and double tone shades. The secondary tone can either emphasize or modify the primary tone.

An 8.43 is a level 8. The primary tone (.4/Copper) is warm and the secondary tone (.3/Gold) is warm as well, therefore, the secondary tone emphasizes the warmth of the shade.

An 7.32 is a level 7. The primary tone (.3/Gold) is warm and the secondary tone (.2/Violet) is cool, therefore, the secondary tone modifies the warmth of the shade.

Use the chart below to identify the specific number and letter representation for each tone. The shade names and base tones are also included.

Color Wheel and Tonal FamiliesPrimary Colors (red, yellow and blue) are the building blocks of all color. Primary colors are pure and cannot be created by mixing other colors together. Combinations of primaries create all other colors.

Secondary Colors are made by mixing two primary colors together.

Tertiary Colors are achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts.

YellowGreen

YellowYellowOrange

GreenOrange

BlueGreen

RedOrange

BlueRed

BlueViolet

RedViolet Violet

Number Letter Shade Name Base

Gray HairOnce melanin is no longer being produced in a hair follicle, the hair will go into a dormancy state, shed and a new colorless (white) hair will grow back in its place. White hair contains no melanin. Gray hair has a different diameter and structural properties that make it resistant to color. In actuality it is a combination of both pigmented and white hair that gives the appearance of being gray. Refer to the gray swatches to determine the percentage of white, which is an important factor in the formulation process.

0 - 25% - Target Shade

25 - 50% - ¼ NN ¾ Target Shade

50 - 75% - ½ NN ½ Target Shade

75 - 100% - ¾ NN ¼ Target Shade

For Resistant Gray Hair• Double NN are recommended to provide optimal gray coverage

• Apply color to resistant areas first

• Color can be processed for 45 mins

Levels

1-5

6

7

8

9

Underlying Pigment

Red

Orange

Orange Yellow

Yellow Orange

Yellow

KeraLuminous™ Shade

30 mL (1 fl. oz.) 6.4/6C + 30 mL (1 fl. oz.) KC Activator

20 mL (.7 fl. oz.) 6.4/6C + 10 mL (.3 fl. oz.) 6.3/6G + 30 mL (1 fl. oz.) KC Activator

20 mL (.7 fl. oz.) 7.3/7G + 10 mL (.3 fl oz.) 7.4/7C + 30 mL (1. fl. oz.) KC Activator

30 mL (1 fl. oz.) 8.3/8G + 30 mL (1 fl. oz.) KC Activator

30 mL (1 fl. oz.) 9.3/9G + 30 mL (1 fl. oz.) KC Activator

Natural Level 10 Ultra-Light Blonde

9 Lightest Blonde

8 Light Blonde

7 Medium Blonde

6 Dark Blonde

5 Light Brown

4 Medium Brown

3 Dark Brown

2 Darkest Brown

1 Black

Underlying Pigment Pale Yellow

Yellow

Yellow-Orange

Orange

Red-Orange

Red

Red

Red

Red

Red

Neutralizing Tone Pale Violet

Violet

Violet-Blue

Blue-Violet

Blue

Blue-Green

Green-Blue

Green

Green

Green

Formulation Guidelines1. Determine natural level hair color.

2. Determine percentage of gray/non-pigmented hair.

3. Determine target level & tone.

4. Determine underlying pigment found at target level (see chart below).

5. Select shade & developer needed to achieve target shade.

.0 N NEUTRAL RED, BLUE, YELLOW

.1 A ASH BLUE

.2 V VIOLET VIOLET

.3 G GOLD YELLOW

.4 C COPPER ORANGE

.5 M MAHOGANY RED VIOLET

.6 R AUBURN RED

.7 GN MATTE GREEN

Pigment Prefill Chart

Pigment Chart

Level & Tone Identifier Chart

Pigment Chart

Page 16: Training Manual - Keratin Complex€¦ · Semi-Permanent Color (n.) Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant art form we admire. Why we love it: • Dynamic

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Gray Coverage/Formulations

FORMULATION GUIDELINES1. Determine natural hair color level

2. Determine percentage of gray/non-pigmented hair

3. Determine target level and tone

4. Determine undertone found at target level

5. Select shade and developer needed to achieve target color

TIPS:When working with undertones, think about how you want to affect the underlying pigment. Do you want to enhance, balance, soften or neutralize? Your choice of color families and strength of tone will create the fine nuances in affecting the underlying pigment.

Warm shades reflect light, making the final shade appear one-half level lighter.

Cool shades absorb light, making the final shade appear one-half level darker.

GRAY HAIROnce melanin is no longer produced in the follicle, the hair will go into a dormancy state and shed; a new colorless (white) hair will grow in its place. White hair contains no melanin.

Gray hair is actually a mixture of pigmented and white hairs, which gives it the appearance of being gray.

The chart below shows gray hair by percentage of white, which is an important factor in formulating.

0 - 25% — Target Shade

25 - 50% — ¼ NN ¾ Shade

50 - 75% — ½ NN ½ Shade

75 - 100% — ¾ NN ¼ Shade

For Resistant Hair: • Double NN is recommended to provide optimal gray coverage • Apply color to resistant areas first • Color can be processed for 45 minutes

0 – 25% Target Shade25 – 50% ¼ NN ¾ Target Shade50 – 75% ½ NN ½ Target Shade75 – 100% ¾ NN ¼ Target Shade

8.03/8NG 8.00/8NN 8.1/8A

Grey Coverage Formulation

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MIXING RATIO1:1 (50mL (1.7 fl. oz.) of color to 50mL (1.7 fl. oz.) of Keratin Complex® Developer

PROCESSING TIMEUp to 35 minutes (up to 45 minutes for resistant gray)

APPLICATION Virgin Application Option 1: Apply to mid-shaft and ends ½ inch away from the base; then apply to base area

Option 2: Apply to base area; use higher volume on ends

RETOUCHApply appropriate permanent or demi-permanent formula on new growth

REFRESHAfter retouch application, apply permanent or demi-permanent formula on ends

Prefill ChartKeratin Complex® recommends the use of KeraLuminous™ Permanent Color and Keratin Complex Activator for all pre-filling. Determine target shade and select recommended shade for pre-pigmentation using the chart below. The processing time is up to 10 minutes.

Permanent Color

KeraLuminousTM Permanent Color

KeraLuminous Permanent Color is 100% oxidative color that delivers rich, vibrant and precise results. Oxidative colors provide optimal gray coverage and longevity since they develop deep within the cortex. KeraLuminous Neutral and Intense Neutral series cover gray 100% while creating brilliant tonal nuances.

Pigment Prefill ChartLevels Underlying Pigment KeraLuminous Shade

1-5 Red 30 mL (1 fl. oz) 6.4/6C + 30 mL (1 fl. oz) KC Activator

6 Orange 20 mL (.7 fl. oz) 6.4/6C + 10 mL (.3 fl. oz) 6.3/6G + 30 mL (1 fl. oz) KC Activator

7 Orange-Yellow 20 mL (.7 fl. oz) 7.3/7G + 10 mL (.3 fl oz) 7.4/7C + 30 mL (1. fl. oz) KC Activator

8 Yellow-Orange 30 mL (1 fl. oz) 8.3/8G + 30 mL (1 fl. oz) KC Activator

9 Yellow 30 mL (1 fl. oz) 9.3/9G + 30 mL (1 fl. oz) KC Activator

*If target shade desired is warm, fill on level

*If target shade desired is neutral or cool, fill to a level lighter than desired shade

Page 18: Training Manual - Keratin Complex€¦ · Semi-Permanent Color (n.) Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant art form we admire. Why we love it: • Dynamic

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Gray Coverage Application1. Divide hair into four sections: from ear to ear and from mid-forehead to nape.

2. Starting with the section containing the highest percentage of white hair, saturate both sides of a thin parting with color.

3. Refresh ends after retouch application; apply permanent or demi-permanent formula on ends.

KeraLuminous High-lift Series KeraLuminous High-Lift Oxidative Color delivers optimal longevity, as the color develops deep within the cortex when activated with Keratin Complex® Developers. The KeraLuminous High-Lift series can lift natural pigments up to four levels with substantial control.

Lifts up to four levels is recommended for Levels 6 and above

Lifting Performance with High-Lifts: 30 Volume Keratin Complex Developer: 2 - 3 levels 40 Volume Keratin Complex Developer: 3 - 4 levels

MIXING RATIO1:2 50mL (1.7 fl. oz.) of color to 100mL (3.4 fl. oz.) of Keratin Complex Developer

PROCESSING TIMEUp to 45 minutes

APPLICATIONVirgin: Apply to mid-shaft and ends first — ½ inch away from the base — then apply to base area

Retouch: Apply appropriate KeraLuminous High-Lift formula on new growth

KeraLuminous Concentrates Series KeraLuminous Concentrates creates richness and vibrancy, along with long-lasting results. Concentrates can be added to any formula to emphasize or modify any KeraLuminous shade.

MIXING RATIOAdd up to 8 mL (.3 fl. oz) in a 50 mL (1.7 fl. oz) formula of KeraLuminous Permanent Color, High-Lift Series or KeraBrilliance Demi-Permanent Color

Color Clear Activator

Maximum Color Deposit 50 mL (1.7 fl. oz) N/A 50 mL (1.7 fl. oz)

Moderate Color Deposit 25 mL (.8 fl. oz) 25 mL (.8 fl. oz) 50 mL (1.7 fl. oz)

Minimum Color Deposit 10 mL (.3 fl. oz) 40 mL (1.4 fl. oz) 50 mL (1.7 fl. oz)

KeraLuminous™/KeraBrilliance® Transparency Chart

Page 19: Training Manual - Keratin Complex€¦ · Semi-Permanent Color (n.) Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant art form we admire. Why we love it: • Dynamic

EXAMPLES KeraLuminous: 8 mL (.3 fl. oz.) .44/CC Concentrate + 42 mL (1.4 fl. oz.)

KeraLuminous 8.43/8CG + 50 mL (1.7 fl. oz.) 20 volume Keratin Complex® Developer

KeraBrilliance: 5 mL (.2 fl. oz.) .2/V Concentrate + 45 mL (1.5 fl. oz.) KeraBrilliance 7.32/7Gv + 50 mL (1.7 fl. oz.) Keratin Complex Activator

High-Lift Series: 5 mL (.2 fl. oz.) .21/Light Gray Concentrate + 25 mL (.8 fl. oz.) 12.1/12A + 60 mL (2 fl. oz.) 40 volume Keratin Complex Developer

KeraLuminous Concentrates can also be used on virgin or pre-lightened hair to create rich fashion tones to pure pastel tones.

EXAMPLES Bold Gold: 25 mL (.8 fl. oz.) .33/GG Concentrate + 25 mL (.8 fl. oz.) 10 volume Keratin Complex

Developer

Intense Red Violet: 18 mL (.6 fl. oz.) .66/RR Concentrate + 7 mL (.2 fl. oz.) .22/VV Concentrate + 25 mL (.8 fl. oz.) 10 volume Keratin Complex Developer

Pastel Lavender: 21 mL (.7) fl. oz. KeraBrilliance® Clear + 4 mL (.1 fl. oz.) .22/VV Concentrate + 25 mL (.8 fl. oz.) Keratin Complex Activator

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Conversion Chart

Milliliters Fluid Ounces

60 mL 2 fl. oz

50 mL 1.7 fl. oz

40 mL 1.4 fl. oz

30 mL 1 fl. oz

25 mL .8 fl. oz

20 mL .7 fl. oz

15 mL .5 fl. oz

10 mL .3 fl. oz

5 mL 2.2 fl. oz

Milliliters to Fluid Ounce

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KeraBrilliance® Demi-Permanent Color

KeraBrilliance Demi-Permanent Color delivers maximum shine and limitless color possibilities, creating brilliant, reflective results. The rich cream ultra-conditioning, ammonia-free formula helps restore strength to damaged hair. Our unique blend extract increases moisture retention, creating a soft and silky texture to the touch.

MIXING RATIO1:1 50mL (1.7 fl. oz) of color to 50mL (1.7 fl. oz) of Keratin Complex® Activator

PROCESSING TIME20 minutes

GLAZEAll application of demi-permanent will change and adjust color (i.e., toner)

LOWLIGHTSTo create dimension with depth, use isolated foils or divide hair into sections.

INSTRUCTIONSFor more vibrant results, pre-lighten hair before applying.

1. Shampoo hair with Keratin Complex Clarifying Shampoo and towel dry.

2. Apply GraffitiGlam directly to hair (no developer required) and process for 20 to 35 minutes, depending on desired results.

3. Rinse hair until water is clear.

To ensure maximum longevity, avoid prolong exposure to sunlight and chlorine. It is recommended to use Keratin Complex’s full product portfolio for at home maintenance.

Semi-Permanent Color

GraffitiGlamTM Semi-Permanent Color Keratin-Enhanced Intense Direct Pigments

GraffitiGlam (n). Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant art form we admire.

Demi-Permanent Color

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MIXING RATIO1:2 Lightener: Developer

Up to 7 levels of lift

10 and 20 volume — on scalp

10, 20, 30, 40 volume — off scalp (in foil, balayage wraps or open-air balayage)

Lightener Chart

Lightener

It’s a Blonde Thing® Keratin Lightening system®

It’s a Blonde Thing Keratin Lightening System is fortified with keratin amino acids to help strengthen and restore damaged hair.

Infused with our signature keratin, It’s a Blonde Thing protects against chemical breakage and reduces porosity by filling the empty spaces in the cuticle with keratin.

It is not necessary, nor do we recommend putting clients under heat.

Once the powder lightener and developer have been mixed, the mixture does not swell, allowing stylists to get very close to the base when lightening without having to worry about “bleed marks.”

Another advantage: the blue powder helps control unwanted warmth and is formulated to transition from blue to white during processing, allowing colorists to get a correct read on lift and more accurate results.

It’s a Blonde Thing can lift up to seven levels, either on or off the scalp for versatile use.

Developer Timing Level of Lift

10 Volume 30-35 minutes Up to 2 levels

20 Volume 30-35 minutes Up to 3 levels

30 Volume 40-45 minutes 2-4 levels

40 Volume 40-45 minutes 4-7 levels

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• Can be used in all color and lightening services

• No interference with lightener

• No need to change color formulations

• No added processing time

• No coating on the hair

• Strengthens hair from the inside out

RATIO1 Vitalshot for every 90 mL, or 3 fl.oz., of Keratin Complex® color/lightening formula

RADIANT COLOR 1. Mix one Vitalshot into every 3 fl. oz./90 mL of color formulation

2. Mix color and developer according to desired results

3. Mix one Vitalshot ampoule into formulation and apply

4. After processing, rinse hair and cleanse with Timeless Color® Fade-Defy Shampoo and Conditioner

BRIGHTEST BLONDE1. Mix one Vitalshot into every 3 fl.oz./90 mL of lightener formula

2. Mix powder with desired developer

3. Mix one Vitalshot ampoule into formulation and apply

4. After processing, rinse hair and cleanse with Blondeshell® Debrass and Brighten Shampoo and Conditioner

REPAIRATIVE REMEDYAn instant keratin booster that helps to rebuild and repair the bonds of the hair

1. Shampoo hair and towel dry

2. Apply one or two Vitalshot ampoules, combing through the hair for even distribution

3. Cover hair with a towel or cap and place client under heat for 10-15 minutes

4. Remove cap and allow hair to cool 2 to 5 minutes. Do not rinse.5. Blow-dry and style as desired

Bond Rebuilder

IN THE USAVitalshot® Bond Rebuilder

Vitalshot is a bond rebuilder that repairs and rebuilds the bonds of the hair in just one step. Formulated with multi-patented triple-layer repair technology, Vitalshot strengthens hair from the inside out to improve long-term damage while creating a silky, shiny finish.

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Best Practices

1. Follow manufacturer’s guidelines

2. Wear protective gloves during mixing and application

3. Wear smock/apron/cape to protect both the colorist and the client

4. Examine guest’s scalp prior to application. Do not apply product if the scalp is sensitive, irritated or has any skin ailments.

5. Do not use over metal dyes or henna

PATCH TESTHot to Perform a Patch Test: Clean a small area behind the bend of the elbow. Mix a small amount of color and developer, and apply to the cleaned area. Wait 24 to 48 hours. If there are sensitivity issues and/or allergic reactions, DO NOT PROCEED.

POST-SERVICE Keratin Complex’s® keratin-enhanced aftercare products are specially formulated for color-treated hair and are safe for use after any Keratin Complex color service.

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888.409.4445 | 561.206.6050 | www.keratincomplex.com