recipes from the lee bros. charleston kitchen

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  • 7/30/2019 Recipes From the Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen

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    MATT LEE&TED LEE

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    https://play.google.com/store/search?q=charleston+kitchenhttp://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/stat?id=VD9*lkiWNd8&offerid=146261&type=3&subid=0&tmpid=1826&u1=The+Lee+Bros.+Charleston+Kitchen-EL--ScribdCrown-9780770433956&RD_PARM1=http%253A%252F%252Fitunes.apple.com%252Fus%252Fbook%252Fisbn9780770433956%253Fmt%253D11%2526uo%253D4%2526partnerId%253D30http://www.indiebound.org/product/info.jsp?affiliateId=randomhouse1&isbn=0307889734http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbnInquiry.asp?ISBSRC=Y&ISBN=9780307889737&cm_mmc=Random%20House-_-The+Lee+Bros.+Charleston+Kitchen-HC--ScribdCrown-9780307889737-_-The+Lee+Bros.+Charleston+Kitchen-HC--ScribdCrown-9780307889737-_-The+Lee+Bros.+Charleston+Kitchenhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0307889734?ie=UTF8&tag=randohouseinc4135-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0307889734
  • 7/30/2019 Recipes From the Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen

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    Copyright 2013 by Matt Lee

    and Ted Lee

    Photographs copyright 2013

    by Squire Fox except as indicated

    All rights reserved.

    Published in the United States by

    Clarkson Potter/Publishers,

    an imprint of the Crown Publishing

    Group, a division of

    Random House, Inc., New York.

    www.crownpublishing.com

    www.clarksonpotter.com

    CLARKSON POTTER is a trademark

    and POTTER with colophon is a

    registered trademark of Random

    House, Inc.

    Library of Congress Cataloging-in-

    Publication Data

    Lee, Matt.

    The Lee Bros. Charleston kitchen /

    Matt Lee and Ted Lee. 1st ed.

    p. cm.

    Includes index.

    1. Cooking, AmericanSouthern

    style. 2. CookingSouth

    CarolinaCharleston. I. Lee,

    Ted. II. Title.

    III. Title: Lee Brothers Charleston

    kitchen.

    TX715.2.S68L4448 2012

    641.5975

    dc23 2012013331

    ISBN 978-0-307-88973-7

    eISBN 978-0-7704-3395-6

    Printed in China

    Photographs on pages 10, 12, 15,32, 64, 66, 94, 95, 96, 100, 102,

    103, 121, 171, and 173 copyright

    2013 Matt Lee and Ted Lee.

    Photographs on pages 53, 84, 133,

    151, 168 reprinted with permission

    Map illustrations copyright 2013

    by David Cain

    Design by Stephanie Huntwork

    Jacket design by Stephanie Huntwork

    Jacket photography by Squire Fox

    10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

    First Edition

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    THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED

    TO OUR FAMILIES

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    THE LEE BROS. CHARLESTON KITCHEN

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    THE LEE BROS. CHARLESTON KITCHEN

    CONTENTS

    WELCOME!

    8

    DRINKS 16

    SNACKS, HORS DOEUVRES,AND SALADS 40

    CHARLESTON RECEIPTS 52

    CLEMENTINE PADDLEFORDS VISIT

    TO CHARLESTON 66

    SOUPS 68

    SPRINGTIME TREAT: PARISH HALL TEA ROOMS

    79

    SOUP BUNCHES 84

    VEGETABLES 88TRUCK FARMING 94

    HOLY CITY FORAGING 102

    FISH AND SHELLFISH 118CAPTAIN JUNIOR MAGWOOD

    138

    SHRIMPING 162

    EDNA LEWIS AT MIDDLETON PLACE

    168

    POULTRY AND OTHER MEATS 174THE GUINEA FOWL OF LAMBOLL STREET 196

    DESSERTS 200

    DOWNTOWN CHARLESTON WALKING TOUR 228

    CHARLESTON AND ENVIRONS DRIVING TOUR 230

    BIBLIOGRAPHY 232

    ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 236

    INDEX

    237

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    THE LEE BROS. CHARLESTON KITCHEN

    W

    pan-roasted okra, corn, and tomatoesserves: 6 time: 45 minutes

    We bring high-summer cookout spirit to the classic

    Lowcountry vegetable trinity by charring the okra

    and corn in a cast-iron skillet. The resulting cara-

    melized, sweet vegetable flavor is the perfect complement to

    the acidity of fresh tomatoes that have been gently stewed

    with some onion, garlic, and bacon. You can turn this into

    a vegetarian dish in a snap by substituting a healthy pinch

    of smoked sweet paprika for the bacon, adding it to the pan

    along with the onion and garlic. Since youll lose the fat ren-

    dered by the bacon, you should add up to a tablespoon more

    vegetable oil to make sure the onions and garlic dont brown.

    3 tablespoons vegetable oil,

    plus more for brushing

    8 ounces fresh okra, halved

    lengthwise

    Kosher salt

    1 cups corn kernels (from

    2 large ears)

    2 pounds fresh tomatoes

    2 ounces slab bacon, cut into

    large dice

    1 medium white onion,

    chopped ( cup)

    1 large garlic clove, mashed

    to a paste

    1 to 2 teaspoons vinegar,

    either red wine, white wine, or

    distilled white (optional)

    Freshly ground black pepper

    1 Heat a large cast-iron skillet over high heat until very

    hot and brush lightly with vegetable oil. In a bowl,

    toss the okra with 1 tablespoon of the oil and season

    with teaspoon salt. Cook the okra in the pan intwo batches, turning once, until charred and tender,

    3 to 4 minutes per batch depending on the size and

    freshness of your okra. Reserve in a bowl so you can

    reuse the cast-iron skillet.

    2 Add 1 tablespoon of the oil to the corn and season with

    teaspoon of the salt. Add the corn to the skillet and

    cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly

    charred in spots, about 3 minutes. Reserve the corn in

    a bowl, separate from the okra.

    3 Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and fill a bowl

    with ice water. Score the tomato bottoms with an X.

    Add the tomatoes to the boiling water and blanch for

    10 seconds to loosen their skins. Transfer the tomatoes

    to the ice water to cool. Core and peel the tomatoes,

    and halve them crosswise. Working over a sieve set in

    a bowl, tease out the seeds with your fingers. Press on

    the seeds to extract the juice, then discard them. Chop

    the tomatoes and reserve them in the bowl of their

    juice.

    4 Pour the remaining tablespoon oil into the skillet over

    medium-high heat, and when it shimmers, add the

    bacon. Saut the bacon until it just begins to brown,

    about 4 minutes, then add the onion and teaspoon

    salt. Stir continuously for about 2 minutes, allowing

    the onion to release some moisture, but not letting

    it brown. Add the garlic and cook for about a minute

    to let its flavor bloom (do not brown the garlic). Then

    add the tomatoes, and stir to combine. Cover the

    pot, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for about4 minutes until the tomatoes have mostly collapsed.

    5 Add the corn, stir to combine, and cook for 3 more

    minutes. Add the okra, stir, and cook just until the

    okra is heated through, about 2 minutes. Season to

    taste with the vinegar (which you may or may not need,

    depending upon the acidity of the tomatoes), salt, and

    black pepper; serve.

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    THE LEE BROS. CHARLESTON KITCHEN

    A

    crab crack serves: 24 time: 1 hour

    Acrab crack in the Lowcountry is much like an oyster

    roast, a rust ic outdoors event where the sea creatures

    being consumed are the only luxuries around. One

    has to stand as there are typically no chairs, the table is a

    piece of plywood set on sawhorses, and there are no uten-

    sils. Clean-up after a cra b crack is usua lly a hose-down. For

    those of us who love freshly boiled blue crabs, this scene is

    heavenly; nothing stands in the way of our digging in, and

    the lack of creature comforts reduces competition at the table

    from prissier gourmands.

    Eating crab picked fresh from the shell, though, is quite

    rarealmost all restaurants prefer to get their crab pre-

    picked for them, rather than to bring in whole crabs and

    spend the effort extracting the meat and cleaning up. In fact,

    Fred Dockery, a professional waterman who specializes in

    crabs and shrimp, sells virtually all his blue crabs to one or

    two retail fish markets (Marvins, on Dorchester Road, and

    Crosbys, downtown on Spring Street), and has learned over

    the years that demand trails off on a predictable monthly

    cycle that tracks with the delivery of Social Security checks.

    A day spent on Fred Dockerys crabbing boat on the

    Kiawah River is an education in all the quirks, both annoy-

    ing and sublime, of the crab business, among them the

    beauty of a brown pelican alighting on the boats stern and

    the scourge of pot-snot, a seaweed that clogs up the traps

    in certain seasons.

    Crabbers like solitude, but we all learn to live around

    each other, he said, of the approximately 150 other active

    crabbers in the state. Each has his own dynamic: Imknown as All-Day Fred; Willie will never get his traps up in

    the deep of the cha nnel; Wes never at the edge of it, Dockery

    told us. His floats are identified by a pale lavender color (a

    risible detail, to the other crabbers) because hes a Minnesota

    Vikings fan.

    North Carolina, being closer to northern markets,

    hauls in about ten times more crab, according to Dockery,

    than does South Carolina. Moreover, South Carolina no

    longer has a picking plant for processing the crab into the

    restaurant- and supermarket-friendly pint containers. Crab

    harvesters like Dockery arent permitted to pick their own

    crabs for sale.

    Here is a point or two that will make you an expert in the

    purchase of blue crabs before your next crab crack. Although

    some people prefer the flavor of female crabs (sooks), the

    males (jimmies) will typically be bigger and are more

    sought after by the most ardent crab lovers. Males and females

    are distinguished by the plate on their underside: a female

    has a rounded plate; the male has one shaped like the Wash-

    ington Monument. In either case, look for rusty patches

    on the white undersides of the shells, indicating that a shell

    hasnt molted for a long while; crabs just about to molt their

    shells are heavier and more packed with meat than those that

    have already expended all the energy required to rebuild a

    new shell (which leaves them lighter and water-logged).

    cup kosher salt

    6 bay leaves, shredded

    3 tablespoons cayenne

    1 tablespoon black

    peppercorns

    1 tablespoon celery seeds

    1 lemon, cut in half

    72 live large blue crabs

    (about a bushel)

    Hot sauce, for serving

    Beer

    1 Pour 4 gallons of water into a large (at least 6-gallon)

    pot and bring to a vigorous boil on the stove or on a

    propane-fueled trestle cooker outdoors. Add all the

    ingredients except the crabs, hot sauce, and beer.

    2 Add about 15 crabs at once to the pot and boil for

    3 minutes, until their shells turn a deep orange. With

    long-handled tongs, transfer the crabs to a table spread

    with newspaper. Repeat with the next batch of crabs.

    Serve with nutcrackers (for the claws), plenty of hand

    towels, a shaker bottle of hot sauce, and oceans of

    beer.

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    THE LEE BROS. CHARLESTON KITCHEN

    S

    syllabub with rosemary-glazed figs

    serves: 4 time: 1 hour 15 minutes, including chilling

    Syllabub is a supremely simple and decadent des-

    sert; its essentially fortified wine (Madeira, sherry,

    or Marsala) whisked with heavy cream. It came to

    Charleston with English settlers in the 1700s, and was a fash-

    ionable dessert among well-to-do fami lies in the Lowcountry

    until the early twentieth century. We find references to it, not

    only in cookbooksfrom Sarah Rutledges The Carolina

    Housewife(1847) to Charleston Receipts(1950)but also in

    books like Laura Witte Warings The Way It Was in Charles-

    ton. Warings memoir is an unusual portra it of domestic life

    in Charleston in the years just after the Civil War. Waring

    was the daughter of a wealthy German immigrant and his

    wife, whose family escaped the vicissitudes of civil war by

    moving back to Germany, where they prospered. Upon

    returning to Cha rleston, they were among the citys wealthi-

    est residents; the mansion and gardens they built in 1816 are

    now Ashley Hall, a girls day school. Waring describes the

    pride with which her motherand onlyher mother; no one

    else was entrusted with the taskmade syllabub.

    In spite of that, weve never been served this dessert in

    Charlestonneither in a restaurant nor in a private home

    not once ! And we have no clue why: its as easy to make as

    whipped cream, beyond delicious, and a perfectly elegant

    accompaniment for fruit. Syllabub was typically served in

    specialized silver-and-glass cups with a spoon and a straw,

    and a sprig of rosemary for garnish, but we prefer to top it

    with fresh figs that have been quartered and tossed in a lightrosemary simple syrup.

    We hope Syllabub comes back in style. Its the kind of

    uncomplicated and yet slightly surprising dessert we enjoy at

    the end of a Charleston dinner with all t he trimmings.

    SYLLABUB

    cup Sercial Madeira or

    Amontillado sherry

    Peel of lemon

    1 tablespoon fresh lemon

    juice

    1 tablespoons sugar

    Pinch of kosher salt

    1 cup heavy cream, cold

    ROSEMARY-GLAZED FIGS

    cup sugar

    2 (3-inch) long sprigs

    rosemary

    Pinch of kosher salt

    4 ounces fresh figs (about

    4 large), stemmed and

    quartered

    1 Make the syllabub: Put all syllabub ingredients except

    for the cream into a large bowl, and whisk until the

    sugar has dissolved, about a minute. Let stand in the

    fridge, about 1 hour.

    2 Make the rosemary-glazed figs: Heat the sugar and

    cup of water water in a small saucepan over

    medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Add

    the rosemary and the salt, stir for about 30 seconds to

    dissolve the salt and bruise the rosemary, and turn off

    the heat. Cover and let cool to room temperature, about

    20 minutes.

    3 Put the figs in a small bowl, drizzle 2 to 3 tablespoonsof the rosemary syrup over them, and toss gently to coat.

    (If the figs are less than ripe, let them stand in the syrup

    for 30 minutes to sweeten.) Reserve the remaining syrup

    for another use, such as sweetening lemonade.

    4 Remove the lemon peel from the wine mixture. Pour the

    cream into the wine and whisk by hand until the cream

    is thick and holds its shape, about 2 minutes. Divide

    the syllabub among four wine glasses or sundae cups

    and spoon the rosemary-glazed figs over each serving.

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