regional training workshop on ecolabelling rio de janeiro, brazil 19th – 20th august 2010

REGIONAL TRAINING REGIONAL TRAINING

WORKSHOP ON WORKSHOP ON

ECOLABELLINGECOLABELLING

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

19th – 20th August 2010

Module : TextilesModule : Textiles

Introduction of the EU Introduction of the EU

Flower CriteriaFlower CriteriaRahul Bhajekar

Managing Director,

Texanlab Laboratories Pvt Ltd.

India

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AgendaAgenda

1. Introduction / participants

2. Key documents and Eco-label website

3. Eco-label criteria for Textiles

4. Application process for EU Eco-label

5. Exercises

6. Legislation and the EU Flower

Introduction (s)Introduction (s)

Who are we ?

What are we doing here ?

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2. Relevant documents2. Relevant documents

A) Criteria document

B) User Manual / Application pack

C) How to find documents, contacts, news, other license keepers, potential customers at the webpage

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2 A) Criteria document2 A) Criteria document

Available in different languages

Consists of two parts:The Commission decision

Product group definitionValidity information

AnnexFrameworkCriteria

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2 A) Criteria2 A) Criteria

First issued 2002, valid until 2007

Extended in 2007

Extended in 2008

CURRENT CRITERIA : 9 July 2009, 2009/567/EC

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2 B) User Manual / Application Pack2 B) User Manual / Application Pack

Help & guidance, prefabricated declarations (including no-use)

Part A: GeneralPart B: Specific for textiles:

Description of the productFibresProcesses, chemicals and reporting energy and

water consumptionFitness for useInformation on label

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2 B) User Manual / Application Pack2 B) User Manual / Application Pack

Part B: Detailed information for applicantsThe criterionExceptionsAssessment and verificationTest requirementsRequirements for applicants

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2 C) EU Ecolabel Website2 C) EU Ecolabel Website

http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/ Information & Background Documents Download Application procedures Brochures Useful links FAQ Policies

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2 C) EU eco-label website2 C) EU eco-label website

www.eco-label.comSearch a ProductSearch for ManufacturersBrowse Labelled ProductsTake a Quiz !

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Questions?Questions?

EU Flower Criteria for EU Flower Criteria for

Textiles : Basic Textiles : Basic

informationinformation

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Basic InformationBasic Information

Who can apply for the EU Eco-label ?

How much does it cost ?

Any discounts ?

What products can get the Eco Label?

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Who can apply ?Who can apply ?

Manufacturer

Importer

Services Provider (Agents)

Traders

Retailers

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What does it cost ?What does it cost ?Fees effective March 2010Fees effective March 2010

Minimum Maximum Discounts

Application Fees

200 €

1 200 €

SME and

operators from developing countries: 600 €

Micro-E: 350 €

20% if registered

under EMAS and/or ISO

14001 certified

Annual Fees -

1 500 €

SME and operators from developing countries: 750 €

Micro-E: 350 €

-

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What are What are Medium, Small & Micro Enterprises ?Medium, Small & Micro Enterprises ?

Less than 50 employees

Annual Turnover < 7 Mio EUR or

Annual Balance Sheet < 5 Mio EUR

• Less than 10 employees

< 250 Employees

Turnover < 40 Mio EUR

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EU Flower for textiles is applicable to :EU Flower for textiles is applicable to :

Products with min 90 % textile fibresProducts with min 90 % textile fibres

Textile ClothingTextile Clothing Accessories for ClothingAccessories for Clothing (Handkerchiefs,

Scarves, Bags and Shopping Bags, Rucksacks, Belts etc.

Interior TextilesInterior Textiles (excl wall and floor coverings)

Fibres, Yarn & FabricsFibres, Yarn & Fabrics for above.

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90 % textile …90 % textile …

Down, feathers, membranes and coatings need not be taken into account in the calculation of the percentage of textile fibres.

3. The EU-Flower 3. The EU-Flower

Criteria Criteria for textilesfor textiles

2009/567/EC2009/567/EC

Part 1Part 1

Fibre CriteriaFibre Criteria

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Criterion 1: AcrylicCriterion 1: Acrylic

(a) The residual acrylonitrile content in raw fibres < 1,5 mg/kg.

(b) The emissions to air of acrylonitrile < 1 g/kg of fibre produced, expressed as an annual average.

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Criterion 2: Cotton and other natural Criterion 2: Cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres (including kapok)cellulosic seed fibres (including kapok)

Cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres (hereinafter referred to as cotton) shall not contain more than 0,05 ppm of different pesticides mentioned.

No pesticide tests if > 50 % of the cotton content is organically grown cotton or transitional cotton.

No pesticide tests if > 75% identified farmers with no use of the mentioned pesticides.

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Criterion 2 (Cotton) – Use of Organic CottonCriterion 2 (Cotton) – Use of Organic Cotton

For > 95 % certified organic cotton, allowed to write ‘organic cottonorganic cotton’ next to the eco-label.

For between 70 & 95 % certified organic cotton, allowed to write “made with x% made with x% organic cottonorganic cotton”.

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Criterion 3: Elastane Criterion 3: Elastane

(a) Organotin compounds shall not be used.

(b) The emissions (air) of aromatic diisocyanates < 5 mg/kg of fibre produced, expressed as an annual average.

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Criterion 4: Flax and other bast fibres Criterion 4: Flax and other bast fibres (including hemp, jute, and ramie)(including hemp, jute, and ramie)

No water retting allowed, unless:

Effluent water is treated to reduce the COD/ TOC by at least

75 % (for hemp)

95 % (for flax and the other bast fibres)

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Criterion 5: Greasy wool and other keratin Criterion 5: Greasy wool and other keratin fibres (including wool from sheep, camel, fibres (including wool from sheep, camel, alpaca, goat)alpaca, goat)

Restrictions on sum total content of specified pesticides on raw wool.

No pesticide test if > 75% identified farmers with no use of the mentioned pesticides.

Scouring effluent discharge restrictions also apply.

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Criterion 5 (wool) - continuedCriterion 5 (wool) - continued

Scouring effluent discharged : COD < 60 g/kg greasy wool, and the effluent shall be treated off-site with > 75 %

reduction of COD, expressed as an annual average.

Scouring effluent treated on site and discharged to surface waters:

COD < 5 g/kg greasy wool pH 6 - 9 temperature < 40 °C

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Criterion 6: Man-made cellulose fibres Criterion 6: Man-made cellulose fibres ((including viscose, lyocell, acetate, cupro, triacetateincluding viscose, lyocell, acetate, cupro, triacetate))

(a) AOX in the fibres < 250 ppm.

(b) Viscose:Sulphur content of the emissions of sulphur compounds to air < 120 g/kg filament fibre produced and < 30 g/kg staple fibre produced, expressed as an annual average.

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Criterion 6 (cellulose) - continuedCriterion 6 (cellulose) - continued

(c) Viscose:Zinc emission (water) < 0,3 g/kg, expressed as an annual average.

(d) Cupro fibres:copper content of the effluent water leaving the site < 0,1 ppm, expressed as an annual average.

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Criterion 7: PolyamideCriterion 7: Polyamide

N2O emissions (air):

< 10 g/kg polyamide 6 fibre produced

< 50 g/kg polyamide 6,6 produced

expressed as an annual average.

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Criterion 8: PolyesterCriterion 8: Polyester

Antimony in the polyester fibres < 260 ppm.

Where no antimony is used, the applicant may state ‘antimony free’ (or equivalent text) next to the eco-label.

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Criterion 8 (polyester)–continuedCriterion 8 (polyester)–continued

(b) VOC emissions < 1,2 g/kg of produced polyester resin, expressed as an annual average.

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Criterion 9: PolypropyleneCriterion 9: Polypropylene

Lead-based pigments shall not be used.

Part 2 Part 2

Processes and Processes and

chemicals chemicals

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FirstlyFirstly

The following criteria apply to all stages of production of the product.

But recycled fibres may contain some of the dyes or other substances excluded by these criteria, if from their previous life-cycle.

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Criterion 10: Auxiliaries and finishing agents Criterion 10: Auxiliaries and finishing agents for fibres and yarnsfor fibres and yarns

Sizing compounds

At least 95 % of formulation shall be sufficiently biodegradable or recycled

Sum of all components of the formulation to be taken into account.

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Criterion 10: (Auxiliaries) - contCriterion 10: (Auxiliaries) - cont

Spinning auxiliaries and additives used in primary spinning

At least 90 % components should be sufficiently biodegradable or eliminable.

Content of PAH must be less than 3 % in mineral oil used.

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Criterion 11: Biocidal or biostatic Criterion 11: Biocidal or biostatic productsproducts

Ban on use of ChlorophenolsPCB’sOrganotin compounds

during transportation or storage of finished or unfinished goods.

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Criterion 12: Stripping or Criterion 12: Stripping or depigmentationdepigmentation

Ban on use of

Heavy metal salts (except of iron)

Formaldehyde

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Criterion 13: WeightingCriterion 13: Weighting

Compounds of cerium shall not be used in the weighting of yarn or fabrics.

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Criterion 14: Auxiliary chemicalsCriterion 14: Auxiliary chemicals

Preparations/formulations may not contain:

APEOs

LAS

DTDMAC

DSDMAC

DHTDMAC

EDTA

DTPA

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Criterion 15: Detergents, fabric softeners and Criterion 15: Detergents, fabric softeners and complexing agentscomplexing agents

At each wet-processing site, at least 95 % by weight of :

detergents, fabric softeners complexing agents

shall be degradable / eliminable.

(Surfactants used must be ultimately biodegradable, aerobically)

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Criterion 16: Bleaching agentsCriterion 16: Bleaching agents

Chlorine bleach not to be used.

This requirement does not apply to the production of man-made cellulose fibres (viscose, acetate, lyocell etc.)

Section 6.1 requirement, AOX to be less than 250 ppm is however applicable.

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Criterion 17: Impurities in dyesCriterion 17: Impurities in dyes

The levels of ionic impurities in the dyes used shall not exceed the following:

Ag 100 ppm Hg 4 ppm

As 50 ppm; Mn 1 000 ppm

Ba 100 ppm Ni 200 ppm

Cd 20 ppm Pb 100 ppm

Co 500 ppm Se 20 ppm

Cr 100 ppm Sb 50 ppm

Cu 250 ppm Sn 250 ppm

Fe 2 500 ppm Zn 1 500 ppm

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Criterion 18: Impurities in pigmentsCriterion 18: Impurities in pigments

The levels of ionic impurities for pigments used shall not exceed the following:

As 50 ppm Pb 100 ppm

Ba 100 ppm Se 100 ppm

Cd 50 ppm Sb 250 ppm

Cr 100 ppm Zn 1 000 ppm

Hg 25 ppm

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Criterion 19: Chrome mordant dyeingCriterion 19: Chrome mordant dyeing

Chrome mordant dyeing is not allowed.

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Criterion 20: Metal complex dyesCriterion 20: Metal complex dyes

If metal complex dyes based on copper, chromium or nickel are used: For Cellulose dyeing:

< 20 % of dyes shall be discharged to waste water.

For all other fibres< 7 % of dyes shall be discharged to waste water.

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Criterion 20: (metal complex dyes) - Criterion 20: (metal complex dyes) - contcont

Effluent discharge after treatment should not contain more than 75 mg/kg of Cu 50 mg/kg of Cr 75 mg/kg of Ni

On weight of fibre, yarn or fabric

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Criterion 21: Azo dyesCriterion 21: Azo dyes

Dyes which cleave to form specified banned amines should not be used.

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Criterion 22: Dyes that are carcinogenic, Criterion 22: Dyes that are carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproductionmutagenic or toxic to reproduction

(a) The following dyes shall not be used:C.I. Basic Red 9C.I. Disperse Blue 1C.I. Acid Red 26C.I. Basic Violet 14C.I. Disperse Orange 11C.I. Direct Black 38C.I. Direct Blue 6C.I. Direct Red 28C.I. Disperse Yellow 3

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Criterion 22: (CMR dyes) – contCriterion 22: (CMR dyes) – cont

No use of dye substances or of dye preparations containing more than 0,1 % of substances with:

R40 (limited evidence of a carcinogenic effect)

R45 (may cause cancer)

R46 (may cause heritable genetic damage)

R49 (may cause cancer by inhalation)

R60 (may impair fertility)

R61 (may cause harm to the unborn child)

R62 (possible risk of impaired fertility)

R63 (possible risk of harm to the unborn child)

R68 (possible risk of irreversible effects)

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Criterion 23: Potentially sensitizing Criterion 23: Potentially sensitizing dyesdyes

Specified disperse dyes cannot be used.

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Criterion 24: Halogenated carriers for Criterion 24: Halogenated carriers for polyesterpolyester

Shall not be used.

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Criterion 25: PrintingCriterion 25: Printing

Printing pastes used shall not contain more than 5 % VOCs.

Plastisol-based printing is not allowed.

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Criterion 26: FormaldehydeCriterion 26: Formaldehyde

The amount of formaldehyde in the final fabric must be

< 20 ppm for products meant for children below 3 years

< 30 ppm for products that come into direct contact with the skin

< 75 ppm for all other products.

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Criterion 27: Waste water discharges from Criterion 27: Waste water discharges from wet-processingwet-processing

Must have a COD content of less than 25 g/kg, expressed as an annual average.

(exceptions for wool and flax retting sites)

pH must be between 4 and 6

Temperature must be below 40°C unless receiving water body has higher temperature.

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Criterion 28: Flame retardantsCriterion 28: Flame retardants

Only chemically bound flame retardants are permitted.

No flame retardant with R phrase classification of CMR will be used unless on application they chemically change to a compound not classified as CMR.

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Criterion 29: Anti Felting FinishesCriterion 29: Anti Felting Finishes

Halogenated substances or preparations are only allowed for wool slivers or loose scoured wool.

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Criterion 30: FinishesCriterion 30: Finishes

Formulations with components having CMR Risk classification and above 0.1 % by weight shall not be used.

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Criterion 31: FillingsCriterion 31: Fillings

Textile fibre criteria must be followed.

Biocidal / Biostatic criteria (26) must be followed.

Detergents / auxiliaries used for washing fillings should also satisfy relevant criteria (14)

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Criterion 32: Coatings, laminates and Criterion 32: Coatings, laminates and membranesmembranes

Polyurethane:Fibre criteria for polyurethane (3a and 3b)

Polyester:Fibre criteria for polyester (8a and 8b) regarding

the emission of VOCs during polymerisation.No use of plasticizers / solvents with CMR

risk phrases during manufacture of chemicals.

VOC emission must be < 10 g Cl/Kg.

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Criterion 33: Energy and water useCriterion 33: Energy and water use

The applicant is requested to provide detailed information on water and energy use.

Part 3 Part 3

Fitness for useFitness for use

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GeneralGeneral

The following criteria apply either to the dyed yarn, the final fabric(s), or the final product, with tests carried out as appropriate.

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Criterion 34: Dimensional changes during Criterion 34: Dimensional changes during washing and dryingwashing and drying

Not to exceed ± 2 % for removable and washable curtains &

furniture fabrics -8%/+4% for other woven or knitted products and

terry towelling

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Criterion 34: Dimensional changes during Criterion 34: Dimensional changes during washing and dryingwashing and drying

This criterion does not apply to: fibres or yarn, products clearly labelled ‘dry clean only’ furniture fabrics (not removable and

washable)

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Criterion 35: Colour fastnessCriterion 35: Colour fastnessto washingto washing

3-4 for staining and colour change.

This criterion does not apply to : products labelled ‘dry clean only’ white products products that are neither dyed nor printed non-washable furniture fabrics

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Criterion 36: Colour fastness to perspiration Criterion 36: Colour fastness to perspiration (acid, alkaline)(acid, alkaline)

3-4 for staining and colour change.

3 for dark colours and regenerated wool or 20 % +

silk.

This criterion does not apply to: products that are neither dyed nor printed furniture fabrics curtains similar textiles intended for interior decoration.

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Criterion 37: Colour fastnessCriterion 37: Colour fastnessto wet rubbingto wet rubbing

2-3

2 for indigo dyed denim

This criterion does not apply to:

white products

products neither dyed nor printed

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Criterion 38: Colour fastnessCriterion 38: Colour fastnessto dry rubbingto dry rubbing

43-4 for indigo dyed denim.

This criterion does not apply to: white products products neither dyed nor printed curtains similar textiles intended for interior decoration

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Criterion 39: Colour fastnessCriterion 39: Colour fastnessto lightto light

5 for furniture, curtain or drape fabrics 4 for light coloured fabrics with 20 % or more of

wool, silk or bast fibres4 for others

This requirement does not apply to: mattress ticking mattress protection underwear

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Criterion 40: Information appearing on the Criterion 40: Information appearing on the eco-labeleco-label

Following text must be used in Box 2 :

Encouraging use of sustainable fibres Durable and High Quality Hazardous Substances Restricted.

Questions ?Questions ?

APPLICATION FORM & APPLICATION FORM &

USER MANUALUSER MANUAL

Is also downloadable from

http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ ecolabel/ecolabelled_products/

categories/textiles_en.htm

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Application Pack Part AApplication Pack Part A

Common for all – not just for textiles

General Information.

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Application Pack Part BApplication Pack Part B

Specifically for textiles.

5 ChaptersGeneral InformationFibre CriteriaProcess & Chemicals CriteriaFitness for UseEcolabel Rules

Let us go through the Let us go through the

application form …application form …

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Part APart A

Applicant’s name & contact details

Classification of applicant (manufacturer, importer, agent etc.)

Manufacturing location details

Product InformationSpecificationsEst. Annual sales in the EU of this product, ex

factory.

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Part A, contd.Part A, contd.

Information about previous applications made for this product.

Undertaking confirming that applicant will sign a contract for use of Eco Label on the product, if successful.

Declarations & documentation regarding micro, small, medium enterprises.

Signatures

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Part B (Textile Specific)Part B (Textile Specific)

Chapter 1 : General Information

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Chapter 1, Section 1-1Chapter 1, Section 1-1

Product Description Trade Name Type of Product Identification / Reference Numbers Description (fibre type etc.) Agent details

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Chapter 1, Section 1-2 Chapter 1, Section 1-2

• Use of Chemicals and SuppliersDeclaration regarding use of only listed

chemicals in application.

• 1-2a : System Flow Diagram Identify all stages of manufacture (fibre to

product) Identify all suppliers at each stage of

manufacture

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Chapter 1, Section 1-2Chapter 1, Section 1-2

• 1-2b : List of Suppliers & Details.

• 1-2c : List of Chemicals / Trade names etc.

• 1-2d : Declarations from Chemical Suppliers

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Chapter 2 : Fibres CriteriaChapter 2 : Fibres Criteria

Specific requirements for each fibre.(already covered in earlier presentations)

Example : Cotton productsSection 2-2 is applicable.

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Section 2-2 Cotton / Cellulosic Seed Section 2-2 Cotton / Cellulosic Seed FibresFibres

Conventional Cotton• Pesticide Residues: Test report and Declaration

• Transitional Organic Cotton• Pesticide Residues: Test report, Declaration &

Certification

• Organic Cotton• Pesticide Residues : Declaration & Certification

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Section 2-8 : Polyester FibreSection 2-8 : Polyester Fibre

Antimony content : Declaration & Test Report

VOC in manufacture : Declaration, Documentation / Test reports

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Chapter 3 : Processes & ChemicalsChapter 3 : Processes & Chemicals

3-10,14m : Supplier Declaration for biodegradability, polyaromatic hydrocarbons, mineral oils, APEOs, surfactants

MSDS

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Section 3-11 for biocidesSection 3-11 for biocides

Declaration from Supplier : chlorophenols, PCB and organotins.

Test reports for chlorophenols, PCB and organotins in yarn, fabric, final products

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Section 3-14 - SurfactantsSection 3-14 - Surfactants

Declaration for non-use of certain surfactants such as APEOs etc.

Declaration for biodegradability of detergents, softeners and complexing agents from manufacturers.

MSDS for chemicals used.

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Section 3-17 to 3-25 ColourantsSection 3-17 to 3-25 Colourants

• 3-17, 18 : Declaration on Heavy Metal Content

• 3-21 : Declaration on Banned Amines

• 3-22 : Declaration & MSDS on Carcinogenic, Toxic and Mutagenic Dyes

• 3-23 : Declaration for Potentially sensitizing Dyes, Test Report for Perspiration Fastness.

• 3-24 : Declaration for Halogenated Carriers for Polyester

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• 3-25a : Declaration for VOC in printing pastes

• 3-25b : Declaration for no use of plastisol

Section 3-17 to 3-25 Colourants Section 3-17 to 3-25 Colourants (contd)(contd)

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3-26 : Formaldehyde in Final Product3-26 : Formaldehyde in Final Product

Test Report for final product.

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3-27 : Waste water discharge3-27 : Waste water discharge

Test reports for COD : discharge water after treatment : to demonstrate annual average values.

Both in-house and CETP are covered.

Declaration regarding treatment of waste water.

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3-30 : Finishes3-30 : Finishes

Declarations regarding no use of finishing materials with specific R-Phrases.

MSDS for all chemicals used.

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3-33 : Energy & Water Use3-33 : Energy & Water Use

Provide data regarding use of energy and water in manufacturing at all stages

This is a Voluntary requirement.

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Chapter 4 : Fitness for Use CriteriaChapter 4 : Fitness for Use Criteria

Relevant test reports / declarations as required by the criteria should be provided.

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Where can my products be tested?Where can my products be tested?

Verifications should be carried out by reliable laboratories with experience of the relevant product group. Applicants may use test centres which are:

accredited under the requirements of ISO 17025 or equivalent standards.

Some Fun Exercises Some Fun Exercises

……

Exercise 1Exercise 1

Tasteful Textiles

want to sell bed linen

with the EU Flower

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Exercise 1Exercise 1

Purpose of the exercise:

How to use the application form & pack in practice. Which criteria are relevant for the product type ? What documentation is required ?

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Exercise 1 : ParametersExercise 1 : Parameters

“Tasteful TextilesTasteful Textiles” want the Flower on bed linen. They are based in India.

All manufacturing is done in India / Bangladesh

Reliable DyersReliable Dyers is a dye-house using: CI Blue 1, CI Yellow 2, CI Green 3 Formic Acid Finish “Super Soft XL 19” No Azo dyes, metal complex dyes or chrome

mordant dyeing.

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Exercise 1 : ParametersExercise 1 : Parameters

“Super SewSuper Sew” is the sewing company: each pillow case weight 100 grams, 2 buttons each duvet cover weight 700 grams, 4 buttons Buttons: three and weight 5 grams each.

“Fantastic FabricsFantastic Fabrics” is the weaving company: Fabric is made of 93% cotton, 2% Elastane and

5% polyester They use a chemical “Fantastic Size 007”.

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Exercise 1: QuestionsExercise 1: Questions

1. Can the product be eco-labelled?

2. Which competent body should they approach ?

3. Which company must document which criteria?

4. How must the relevant criteria be documented?

5. Are there ways to make some of the documentation easier? e.g. by changing something in the way the fabric is composed?

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Supplier 1:Cotton

?(?)

Supplier 2:Elastane

?(?)

Supplier 3:Polyester

?(?)

Supplier 4:Weaver

Fantastic FabricsBangladesh

Supplier 5:Dyer

Reliable DyersIndia

Supplier 6:Sewer

Super SewIndia

Supplier 5:Applicant

Tasteful TextilesIndia

Chemicals:

Fantastic Size 007

Blue 1Yellow 2Green 3Formic acidSuper Soft

Other relevant information:

Pillow: 100g + 2 buttons á 5gDuvet cover: 700g + 4 buttons á 5gButtons are made of tree

Working GridWorking Grid

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Exercise 1: SolutionsExercise 1: Solutions

Can the product be eco-labelled? Why / why not?

Yes, because it is over 90% textile fibresYes, because it is over 90% textile fibres Pillow: 100g/110g = 0,909 = 90,9% Duvet cover: 700g/720g = 0,972 = 97,2%

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AnswersAnswers

Question 2: To which competent body Question 2: To which competent body must the application be sent?must the application be sent?

The company can choose the competent body that they want. Else, to the country where their largest sales happen.

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Question 3: Which company must document which criteria?

Supplier 1: Criterion 2 (cotton), since 93%

Supplier 2: None (since under 5%)

Supplier 3: Criterion 8 (polyester), since 5%

Supplier 4: Criteria 10 (auxiliaries and finishing agents for fibres and yarns) and 14 (auxiliary chemicals) for the size

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Question 3: Continued

Supplier 5: criteria 14 (auxiliary chemicals) for the helping chemicals (Formic acid and Super Soft 007), criterion 15 (fabric softeners) for the softener (Super

Soft 007), criteria 17 (impurities in dyes), 22 (dyes that are CMS), 23 (sensitizing dyes) and 24 (halogenated carriers for polyester) for the dyes criterion 27 (waste water discharges from wet-processing) for their waste water.

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Supplier 6: none

Supplier 5 (as applicant): Responsible for all the criteria – either document that the criteria are not relevant or make sure that there are documentation.

26 (formaldehyde),

33 (voluntary energy and water use),

40 (information on the eco-label)

all the fitness for use criteria are relevant

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Question 4: How must the relevant criteria be documented? (include the page nos. as given in the user manual and what should be attached with the various declarations)

For criterion 2 (cotton): page 19-25 depending on what type of cotton it is….

For criterion 8 (polyester): page 49-51

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For criterion 10 (auxiliaries and finishing agents for fibres and yarns): page 56-58

For criterion 14 (auxiliary chemicals) and 15 (fabric softeners): page 65-68

For criteria 17 (impurities in dyes), 22 (dyes that are CMS), 23 (sensitizing dyes), 24 (halogenated carriers for polyester) and 26 (formaldehyde): page 70-87

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Question 4: Continued.

For criterion 27 (waste water discharges from wet-processing): page 88-90

For criterion 33 (voluntary energy and water use): page 103

For criteria 34 (dimensional changes), 35 (colour fastness to washing), 36 (colour fastness to perspiration), 37 (colour fastness to wet rubbing), 38 (colour fastness to dry rubbing) and 39 (colour fastness to light): page 104-109

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Question 4: Continued.

For criterion 40 (information on the eco-label): page 110

But for the applicant also all other criteria need to be documented – at least by “no use (in this case e.g. criterion 20 (metal complex dyes))” or “not relevant in the production process (in this case e.g. criterion 25 (printing))” – AND all the general application forms (page 7-16).

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Additional point-Additional point-

If Tasteful Textiles were to use

Fabric with less than 5 % Polyester

Or use certified organic cotton

Their job would be easier !

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Second PointSecond Point

Should Tasteful Textiles change their product range by adding New Dyes for new colour range Printed designs A different Fabric Composition

Can they still use the EU Flower Eco Label ?

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NO !NO !

But they can approach their competent body with additional data, documentation and information to ask for an extended certification.

Chemical legislation Chemical legislation

relevant for relevant for

textiles textiles

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Main LegislationsMain Legislations

REACH

Azo Dyes

Nickel

Formaldehyde

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Others of interestOthers of interest

Phthalates

Heavy Metals (Lead / Cadmium)

APEOs

Flame Retardants

Chlorinated Phenols

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REACH: Definition of articleREACH: Definition of article

Article:

means an object which during production is given a special shape, surface or design which determines its function to a greater degree than does its chemical composition

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REACH: RegistrationREACH: Registration

Registration of a substance in articles is mandatory for an article producer or importer only if the following two conditions are met:

Intended release

> 1 tonne per year.

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REACH: NotificationREACH: Notification

Notification of a substance in articles is required by an article producer or importer when all of the following conditions are met:

At the candidate list

> 0.1% (w/w)

> 1 tonne per year

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REACH: SVHCREACH: SVHC

A list over the substances of very high concern (SVHC) is to be found in Annex XIV or at the candidate list to Annex XIV.

The following categories of substances are candidates for Annex XIV (see article 57):

CMR

PBT & vPvB

endocrine disrupting

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Azo dyesAzo dyes

release one or more of the aromatic amines listed in the appendix concentrations above 30 ppm

(in the finished articles or in the dyed parts thereof) come into direct and prolonged contact with the human skin or oral cavity

The Label for TextilesThe Label for Textiles

The Application Process

made Simple !

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The 6 application stepsThe 6 application steps

Check if your product is eligible

Check if you are eligible

Decide your Competent Body

Complete the Application Form

Create the dossier

Send in your Application

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Step 1Step 1

Check if your product is eligible:

Confirm that your product comes under one of the product groups included in the scheme.

Go to http://ec.europa.eu/ecolabel and choose “product groups” on the menu on the left.

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Step 2Step 2

Check if you are eligible :

Manufacturers, importers and service providers can all apply for the Flower.

Traders and retailers can also apply, but only for products marketed under their own brand names

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Step 3Step 3

Contact a Competent Body:

Your Competent Body (CB) is the national organization responsible for the application of the European Eco-label in the European country where your product is made.

If the product is made outside Europe, contact a CB in the European country where the product is sold

Go to http://europa.eu.int/ecolabel and choose “contact & links” on the menu on the left.

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Step 4Step 4

Complete the Application Form:

Form will be provided by your CB

Follow the instructions provided by your CB

Fill in the administrative documents.

Complete a dossier of supporting documentation (compliance, declarations, test results).

This will take you the longest time !!This will take you the longest time !!

Next ?Next ?

SUBMIT THE COMPLETED

FORM WITH ALL

DOCUMENTATION TO THE CB

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Recap : What are competent bodies ?Recap : What are competent bodies ?

Competent Bodies are independent and impartial organisations, responsible for implementing the EU Ecolabel scheme at national level.

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Choice of Competent BodyChoice of Competent Body

For non European Applicant - any one, your choice. But typically the one where your products would be sold the most.

For a Europe based applicant – body of the country of manufacture or the largest country of sale.

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Few Guidance Points :Few Guidance Points :

Download an application packScrutinize requirements to find if you will

qualifyAppoint a leader for the projectDecide on a competent body to approachApproach the CB and start contact.Gather information & data as required.Obtain test reports as requiredBuild your dossier

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Further …Further …

Take help of experts as necessary.

Send in your application pack with fees

Expect an audit team from the EU

On a successful audit, await certification.

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IMPORTANT ! IMPORTANT !

None of the requirements are negotiable – these are written into EU Law and cannot be cannot be changedchanged.

Criteria has been designed to ensure only the top products qualify – this is not for all.this is not for all.

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The EU Flower – an Ideal Sustainability ToolThe EU Flower – an Ideal Sustainability Tool

Covers all textile fibres

Covers all processes in manufacture

Covers Social Aspects as well

Covers Work Environment

Covers Waste Management

Covers Energy Management

Covers Chemical Restrictions

Covers Product Performance

Best of Luck !Best of Luck !

Hope some of you will look to be

EU Flower Certified later this

year !

Thank you.Thank you.

[email protected]

Photographs in this presentation have been used for representational purposes and sourced from the internet. All logos are trademarks owned by respective organizations.

Texanlab Laboratories Pvt. Ltd., R-855 1st Floor, TTC Industrial Area Rabale, PO Ghansoli, Navi Mumbai 400701. Tel : +91 22 61417100, Fax : + 91 22 61417101. Email : [email protected]