Remove Maytag Washing Machine Tubhttp://www.ehow.com/how_5660805_remove-maytag-washer-tubs.html

Although the Maytag washer is a reliable appliance, parts do wear out. Most of the parts inside the Maytag washer are accessible by removing the cabinet from the machine. However to get to the tub seal and transmission, it is necessary to remove the tub from the Maytag washer. The Maytag washer wash tubs consist of an inner and outer tub assembly covered by a tub cover.

InstructionsThings you'll need:

Phillips-head screwdriver¼-inch socket wrenchSpanner wrenchMalletTorx wrenchThin flathead screwdriverWrench set

STEPS01. Disconnect the power cord of the Maytag washer from the wall outlet. Remove the two screws on the

bottom edge of the front panel with a Phillips-head screwdriver. Pull the bottom of the front panel away from the washer to disengage the clips under the top panel. Move the front panel out of your way. Raise the top panel up and set it back to rest on the service hinges.

02. Press down on the tub cover and unsnap the plastic clips around the tub cover. You will have to press down above each clip to unsnap each one. Lift the tub cover off of the inner and outer tubs.

03. Turn the agitator to locate and access the bolt that secures the agitator to agitator shaft. The bolt is near the bottom of the agitator on the side. Use a ¼-inch socket wrench to remove the bolt. Grab the bottom of the agitator with both hands and pull the agitator out of the Maytag washer tub.

04. Place a spanner wrench over the nut in the bottom of the washer inner tub. The nut is a left-hand thread so the nut must be turned clockwise to remove it from the washer. Tap the side of the spanner wrench with a mallet to initially loosen the nut and then spin the nut completely off using the spanner wrench.

05. Pull the inner tub out of the Maytag washer. Locate the Torx set screw on the bottom of the mounting stem. Remove the set screw using a Torx wrench. Place the spanner wrench around the mounting stem and remove the mounting stem just as you did with the nut earlier, The mounting stem is a left-hand thread and will be loosened by turning the mounting stem clockwise. Lift the mounting stem out of the outer tub to gain access to the o-ring and boot seal.

06. Use a thin flathead screwdriver to remove the o-ring. Twist the boot seal clockwise to loosen and remove the boot seal. Take care not to grab the boot seal around the carbon ring. Remove the three bolts that secure the outer tub to the tub braces with a wrench. Pull the outer tub out of the Maytag washer.

Read more: How to Remove Maytag Washer TubseHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_5660805_remove-maytag-washer-tubs.html#ixzz1HUHmNA6i

How to change the tub seals and center bearing....http://www.applianceaid.com/tub_seal_replacement.html

Observations you should make while doing these procedures....i. Note position of tub clamp screws.

ii. Note where top cover is in relation to clamp and inside spacing.iii. Note how old seal is in, there are two different sides.iv. Have a clean rag to wipe clean the area where the seal meets the inside of the outer tub.

STEPS01. Unplug washer and Remove two Philips head screws holding front panel in ( newer models have clips

on the bottom and no screws )02. Remove front panel, lift panel from sides, has two "tabs" on top03. Remove two 3/8ths hex head screws holding the top down04. Lift up top, it's somewhat hingedso be careful lid doesn't smash against wall or pipes05. Disconnect water tube on left side to top cover06. Loosen the two screws on the steel band... straight or 5/16th ( newer washers have a plastic tank cover,

pry out the tabs and lift up to remove the plastic tank cover )07. Gently but forcefully remove the top cover08. Be careful not to break or bend the plastic tabs or band and do not cut the gasket09. ►Remove the agitator by grasping firmly and pulling up towards your chin, carefully!

► ( many have 1/4 hex head screw on agitator, down the side near the base, older ones have a rubber ring on transmission shaft )

10. Using a hammer and your spanner wrench remove or cut off the spanner nut, it is a left hand thread so it must come off clockwise, careful not to chip the tub, if it is not stainless steel

11. Remove the inner tub,, it's heavy with the concrete counter balance12. Take the Allen wrench screw (or torx) out of the mount stem (see one of the 4 dimples for the set

screw) 13. Using your hammer and spanner wrench take the mount stem off, mount stem is a left hand thread so it

must come off clockwise14. Now grasp the seal and remove, careful you can slip ( many have 1/4 hex head screw on agitator, down

the side near the base, older ones have a rubber ring on transmission shaft )15. Now grasp the seal and remove, careful you can slip ( Also if just replacing just the "Seal and stem kit"

skip to 33. and continue )  It is not recommend replacing the seals only without the tub bearing!16. Put a 1/2" socket on the nut on the front and 1/2" box wrench or adjustable wrench on the inside bolt,

and loosen using the socket on the outside, but not remove entirely the front nut17. Then using the same two tools remove the left and right bolts and nuts and lock nuts and plate, noticing

the fiber washer18. Then remove the front one19. Remove tub to pump top hose clamp and pull off up 1/2 of that hose, now work the outer tub loose and

lift up but not out entirely20. Remove the pressure hose on your rear right side21. Take out the tub22. Stomp (using your foot) out the tub bearing housing from inside the outer tub23. Remove the "metal sleeve collar" on the transmission shaft24. A. you're half started25. Turn the outer drum over26. Take the new tub bearing and "stomp" it into the outer tank...flush, take your time and double/triple

check yourself on these steps, (takes less time to recheck and verify than to tear down and start over)27. Put the new collar over the transmission28. Put the outer tub back on and reattach the pressure hose and pump hose

29. Line up the front hole and put the front (short) bolt in, making sure you have the fiber washer on the outside of the tub

30. Put the rectangular flat washer on, then the lock washer and the nut by hand... thread it on a couple of turns but leave loose

31. Put the right and left bolts and stuff on, tighten well32. Tighten up the front one33. Check for rust and clean as required. Put the seal on next, careful not to tear the seal, but it needs to be

all the way down. One side has a special edge of carbon or something like that and that needs to be UP towards you. Sometimes taking a little bit of liquid laundry detergent and lining the inside bottom lip of the seal with it can help with the installation of the seal onto the tank.

34. Take the torx screw out of the new mount stem, and screw down the stem mount, tighten with spanner wrench ( don't over tighten! ), install the torx screw

35. Put the inner tub on36. Check the spacing around the top of the inner tub (making sure that the tub is not listing one way or

another)37. Put the metal cover on and spanner nut38. Put the top cover on and push it all the way down39. Check and clean the gasket and put it back on. Check for rust and clean as required.40. Put the clamp back on over the gasket41. Tighten to a moderately firm but not tight setting42. Carefully with a long straight screwdriver pry up the top part, bit by bit run your fingers around the

clamp to make sure the gasket didn't pop up43. When you think you have a good position, take your index finger and on the inside put it between the

top cover and top of the inner basket and make sure you have this space all round so that the inner basket doesn't rub against the top cover

44. Tighten the clamp45. Reinstall the hose from the injector to the top cover46. Plug unit back in and turn to spin47. Let it spin for a couple of minutes48. Turn timer to fill and put water in49. Water test before securing top and reinstalling front panel

Tools needed include "spanner wrench", hammer, 1/4"nut driver, socket set with 5/16", 3/8" & 1/2" socket, 1/2" box head wrench or adjustable wrench, "heavy foot", hose clamp pliers or good set of pliers, Allen wrench - torx screwdriver or bit sit, screwdrivers, Phillips and straight .

More Info01. Remove all parts inside outer tub.(spinner or inner tub, tub seal, metal hub.) 02. Then remove all 6 tub balance springs, disconnect tub to pump hose and pressure switch hose at outer

tub. (be careful of air dome, could break off if catches on body when removing tub and base assembly. 03. Remove belt. 04. Remove outer tub assembly and base as whole assembly and turn upside down onto outer tub. You

should be looking at transmission pulley, remove thrust bearing, brake stator and spring. The spring is under extreme pressure. The only thing containing spring is the metal cover with 6 5/16 screws. Proceed with caution, do not remove cover to brake unless you can take pressure off of spring. You will need special tool or could find post at this web site on how to without. Once you remove brake and spring assembly you will find three screws remove those and six screws that house brake and springs. make sure to mark tub support pan and tub bearing assembly orientation it will make a difference on

reassembly. ( in relation to outer tub). Again do remove brake stator without relieving pressure on spring 18 on your diagram.

PS. - red stains caused by water mixing with grease inside tub seals and rust from bearing.Note - depending on series of your washer you may be able to buy tub seal and bearing kit which would come with everything you need. see prev post about series number! you might be able to borrrow or rent speciality tools from where you buy parts.

Read more: The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum - Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help - ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums http://applianceguru.com/view_topic.php?id=5563#ixzz1HHsNZqL8 Get appliance parts at http://parts.fixitnow.com