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WEB BASEDAPPLICATION SPECIFIC INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

ReplacingAluminumWindows

Although all possible measures have been taken to insure the accuracy of the material presented, WIXSYS, and the author are not liable and do not assume any liability in case

of misinterpretation of directions, misapplication, improper installation, or typographical error.

The Illustrated Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows Contents © 2004-14 Do not reproduce without permission

Replacing Aluminum Windows

Aluminum windows are usually secured by fastenersthrough the exterior flange into the plywood sheath-ing or wall studs. Also fasteners can be mountedthrough the jamb (in the sash channel) into the wooden frame around the opening.

This method works well when the old window is care-fully removed. NOTE: For an alternative method ofreplacing an aluminum or other finned window, go toAlternative Method of Replacing an AluminumWindow in this manual.

Most aluminum window frames can be pried up andout of the opening without disturbing the siding orinterior finish. Begin by removing the operating sashfrom the window. If there is a fixed panel, removeglass carefully. In windows with fixed panels, theglass may need to be broken to remove it. Use nylon filament tape in a criss-cross pattern to mini-mize shattering.

Remove all visible screws in the window jambs. Ifthis does not free the window, use a flat putty knifebetween the window frame and the internal jambtrim to locate the flange screws.

Using a cold chisel or putty knife, attempt to shearall the mounting screws between the flange and theside of the house.

Note: The drawings are typical installations. Though not to exact scale, they are representative ofmost situations and are meant as a guide only.

Once all fasteners are sheared or weakened, carefullypry up the bottom frame using a block under the prybar to protect the inside sill. If fasteners can’t besheared or weakened, careful prying can remove thewindow. Protect the opening as much as possible tominimize damage to siding or interior finish.

Once the bottom frame is arched sufficiently, use arecipro-saw or hacksaw and cut the frame piece.After it is cut, gentle use of the pry bar can removeboth sides and top of frame without disturbing thesiding or interior jamb, head, or sill trim.

OldAluminumWindow

ReplacementWindow


Depending on the condition of the opening and thetype of exterior trim or siding, it may be necessary to cap the opening to make a smooth transition ofouter and inner surfaces in preparation for the newwindow. At least cover or caulk all cracks and holes.

Wood furring can be used to fill gaps in between siding and interior walls and to provide structuralsupport in the opening.

Most openings will now be ready for the installationof exterior "blindstops". Aluminum or vinyl angles(1” x 3”) or wood (1” x 1” or 1” x 2”) can be used forstops and should be installed to the outside allowingfor depth of replacement window (3 1/4”). Installthese stops on head and both jambs only. Slopedsills require the use of the provided sill angle. Flat sills should be caulked where the window meets the sill so as not to block drainage.

Install new window against outside stop, caulk andtrim interior and cap exterior as necessary. It maybe wise to cap the furring or outside stop beforeinstallation to minimize after-installation trim work.

Pre-extruded shapes or available “Snap-Trim” canmake the job easier. Mount the angle of the snaptrim with “pop rivet” to the top of window. Afterplaced in opening, mount angle to other sides.

Plumb and square window using snap-trim angleand pop rivet to window and screw trim angles tointerior window opening, cap exterior and caulk.Once all trim angles are secure “Snap Over” trim and caulk. The use of Snap Trim eliminates the need of stops and shims.

NOTE: When removing finned windows it is possibleto tear the underlying building paper and weatherbarrier. If so, consider a “Jump Frame” installationdescribed elsewhere in this manual.

ThreeInstallationMethods


Leaving the Old Frame in PlaceFor Aluminum Windows that have been mounted to theunderlying sheathing through a nailing fin, it is possible toleave the old frame in and not disturb the siding.

First, you need to remove the operating sash and the fixedsash, Usually this is easy to do unless the fixed glass is glazeddirectly into the window framing. If so, tape the glass withduct tape to help hold the glass together in case you need touse force to get it out.

Once the glass panels are safely removed, used a reciprocatingsaw to cut through the vertical meeting stile as close to theheader and sill frame members as possible.

Once the center meeting stile is removed, caulk the exterior ofthe left-in-place frame with quality sealant and place the wideflange window against the old frame and seat the sealant.

Trim the interior as needed. Be sure to address where theflange of the new window sits against the old header to makesure water is diverted out and over the new window ratherthan behind it as it cascades down the side of the exteriorwall.

It is imperative that the top of the new window is sealed toprevent cascading water from penetrating behind the exteriorflange and into the cavity between the window and the open-ing.

Making the Choice:Leaving the OldFrame In

Removing the Old FrameDepending on how the old window is finished on the outside,you can choose to remove the old frame completely versusleaving in the old frame. You start the same by removing thesash (operating and fixed) and cutting out the meeting stile.

Once the meeting stile is removed, used the reciprocal saw tocut the sill and header part of the frame slightly to facilitatebending and collapsing it using a crow bar to pry it up.

Use a wood block under the crowbar to minimize potentialdamage to the sill and header. Pry directly up and the framewill come out from between the siding and the sheathing. Itwon’t take much effort to do so and that will “tear” the nailingfin slots away from the nails allowing the frame to collapse.

Do it on the bottom, the sides and the header and you shouldbe able to remove it completely.

Take care to cover the gap and use slow expansion foam seal-ing tape and/or insulation to cover the gap before setting thenew window in against the old framing members along theinside jambs, sill and header.

Seal the new window along the outside, taking care to leaveweep gaps in the sealant along the sill before setting newmolding against the new window frame to fill out the spaceout to the siding.

Carefully seal the outside to divert water away from the win-dow rather than letting it get in behind the trim.


Making the Choice:Taking the OldFrame Out


Step 2:Remove Exterior Casing.

Step 4:Create Sill Flashing using adhesive-backedflashing, and/or liquid applied flashing to cover the old sill andextend up the jambsabout 6 inches.

Metal Frame-Out- Replacement Sequence

Step 3:Removed the nailscarefully from the oldwindow’s fin.

Try to disrupt oldflashing as little aspossible.

Step 1:Most original windowswith a fin have beentrimmed with appliedexterior wood trim orcasing to cover themounting fin and abutthe siding.

Carefully break anysealed joints betweenthe casing, the sidingand the window.

If there is no casing and the siding butts to window frame usinga “J” Channel, cut-backthe siding with circularsaw or Fein Tool toexpose the old window’sfin, and proceed thesame from there.

At the finish, use “J” Channel or extended leg “C” Channel to “cap” the siding’s cut ends and form a joint with the new casing trim.

Removed trim will expose old window and its mounting fin.


Step 5:Re-establish jamb and headerflashing using adhesive-backedflashing or liquidapplied flashing.

Where adhesive-backed flashing isused, overlap the sillflashing with thejamb flashing, andoverlap the jambflashing with theheader flashing.

Step 6:Set the new window inplace. Carefully shimto leave drainagespace at sill and makenew window plumb,square and level.

Carefully fasten beingcareful not to nail thenew window too tight.

Use Simplex (or equal)cap nails at header toallow expansion.

Step 7:Apply new pvc trimcasing over flashedfin on header andjambs and then seal.

Trim placed along bottom must allowdrainage of anywater that may accumulate in sill.

Step 7:Apply Adhesive-backedflashing over fin andtuck under siding.

Place Drip Cap on top.

Simplex Cap Nails OVER fin allows frame to move betterthan nails through mounting slots

g

Drip cap

Window frame

WIXSYS Online Window Installation Resource © 2015 AWDI, LLC Do not reproduce without permission

Step 2:Cut-back the sidingwith circular saw orOscillating Tool sufficient width(approximately 1/2”to 2”) to expose theold window’s mounting fin.

Take care not to cuttoo deep.

Step 4:Removed the nailscarefully from the oldwindow’s fin.

Nailing Fin Frame-Out- Alternate

Step 3:Removed the sidingcarefully nails carefullyfrom and make adjust-ments as necessary toexpose the completefin.

Try to disrupt oldflashing as little aspossible.

Remove all the sidingpieces from around thewindow as cleanly aspossible- trying to preserve any flashing.

The cleaner the cutaway, the easierand better the finishedreplacement will be.

Step 1:A very common windowinstallation of an oldfinned window has themounting fin covered by“J” Channels and dripcap and has the siding butting up to the “J” Channel.

Re-flash the exposed mounting surface using adhesive-backed flashing or liquid flashing. Cut a new drip cap to tuck under the siding after the new window is installed.

If a Fin-Mounted Window has the fin covered with J-Channel and siding, the siding can be cut back to expose the nailing fin making the oldwindow easy to remove. Once the new window is installed and flashed, exterior trim molding can be applied as shown on previous page.

AWDI recommends anASTM C920, Class 50sealant such as OSI®QUAD® MAX that isdesigned for exterior/inte-rior use for sealing around windows, siding anddoors. Sealants like OSI®QUAD® MAX bond best to a wide variety of materi-als and their versatility inperformance providesvaluable features and ben-efits for all installers.

AWDI understands that the application of a sealant isas crucial as the choice of sealant. When a bead ofsealant is applied to a joint there are three factors toconsider:• Adhesion• Flexibility• DurabilityWithin these three performance aspects there arecountless combinations of applications, substratesand conditions a sealant is exposed to.

Bedding Joints: For bedding joints, it is especiallyimportant that the sealant is of theright consistency and made up of100% solids so it will not shrinkafter cure, unlike solvent and latexbased sealants that shrink and cre-ate gaps after curing.

Fillet Joints: A fillet joint is formed whentwo surfaces come together toform a right angle. Thesealant used to join these twosurfaces is triangular inshape. The sealant mustadhere to the variety of sub-strates you’re faced with.Without strong adhesionthere is a high chance thatthe sealant will pull awayfrom the substrate allowingfor air and water infiltration.

Control Joints:A control joint is formed when two similar or dissimi-lar materials meet or when substrates do not form aright angle. This joint will require both a backer rodand sealant for proper application. This joint can beas wide as 5/8 inch and be prone to extreme movement, a highly flexiblesealant is necessary for a reliable seal with thisapplication. In order to successfully install a win-dow or door and effect alasting weathertight seal,

Picking the Proper Sealant

Desired Properties

Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows ©2015-2016 All Rights Reserved

ADHESIVE JOINT

BOND BREAKER

TAPE

ANGLED JOINT

BACKER ROD

No Shrinkage

Locks out air and water infiltration to protectintegrity of the seal

Proven Wet Surface Application

Ability to use the same sealant in warm and cold temperature situations to produceconsistent results. 0F – 140F cold and warmweather application

Strong Adhesion / All Surfaces Will stick toeven the most difficult to bond buildingmaterials

5X stretch, 50% joint movement Long termdurability assurance even with expansionand contraction of building materials

24 hour fast cure, paintable 1 HR. Fast cureto protect the building structure from outsideforces and quick paintability saves time

Achieves bubbling resistance faster to ensureoptimal aesthetics

4,600 + Color Matches ensures perfect colormatch to all primary building materials

Dirt & Dust Resistance ensures optimal visual appeal long after an installation

UV Resistance

Long term durability to compliment the durability of the building structure

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While the term “Spray Foam” is often widely used inconstruction, there are two different types and eachhas its advantages and disadvantage.

Spray foam has been shunned by window installersand manufacturers over the years because foams, inthe past, have either continued to expand after trimhas been applied deforming the more pliable vinylwindow frames, or because they have been over usedto fill the gaps left when old windows are removedand the underlying rough opening has been exposed.

Make sure the foam you use has been tested toindustry standards and is labeled conforming tostandards as a low expansion, low pressure foam.

Most standards applying to window installation donot delineate between open cell foam and closed cell foam, the more popular “minimal expansion”foams are most frequently used and they are mostlyclosed cell. More confusing yet, is when foams arerecommended, the compressed foam tape alternativesare called out to be open cell.

When it comes to Spray Foams, it helps to under-stand the differences.Open-cell spray foam (ocSPF)has a cell structure where the cells are filled with air.The open-cell structure renders soft, flexible foam,with a density of about 0.5-0.8 pounds per cubic foot(pcf).

The R-value per inch of open-cell foam typicallyranges from R3.6 to R4.5 per inch. Unlike fiberglassand cellulose, the fine cell structure of ocSPF makesit air-impermeable at certain thicknesses. The air-impermeability of ocSPF qualifies it as an air-barriermaterial, dramatically reducing air leakage throughthe building envelope, significantly lowering thebuilding’s heating and cooling costs. However, ocSPF, like fiberglass and cellulose insulations, is moisture-permeable, and may require the installa-tion of a vapor retarder in colder climates.

Closed-cell spray foam (ccSPF) has a closed cellstructure which yields rigid hard foam, with a

density of 1.8-2.3 pound per cubic foot (pcf), and can provide structural enhancement in certainframed buildings. The smaller cells trap insulatinggas from the curing, which has a lower thermal conductivity than still air, and increases the R-valueto anywhere from R5.8 to R6.9 per inch.

Like ocSPF, ccSPF is also air impermeable at certainthicknesses and can qualify as an air-barrier materi-al. The bigger benefit is that the closed-cell structureof ccSPF also makes it water-resistant, and is theonly spray foam that can be used where contact withwater is likely.

At a thickness of 1.5 inches, no additional vaporretarder is required for most applications.

Spray Foam Insulation


Industry tested and labeled as a LowPressure/Low Expansion; i.e., will not warp or deform windows & doors

Quick Setting Formulation: can be cut ortrimmed in less than 1 hour

Cold Temperature Application: can beapplied in temperatures as low as 14F

Insulation Value of R5: makes it an efficientmethod for stopping air and moisture infil-tration

Remains Flexible Once Cured: will not crackor dry out

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Desired Properties

Using Spray FoamFor the best installation, it is necessary for the gaparound the window or door to be sealed to block outair, water and vapor penetration. ccSPF can do thatwell if selected and used properly. Improper use cancreate water traps, impede drainage and exert exces-sive pressure to the window frame during expansion.

Remember: Vapor barriers need to applied on thewarm side of the opening. Double vapor barriers (one on the warm side and another on the cool side)encourage condensation between and will trap theresulting condensation. Also, window installationcavities (the space between the window frame and the rough opening, or left-in-place old window frame)need to “breathe” to the outside, and allow drainageof collected water to the outside.

Used wisely, ccSPF can be the best solution. AWDIrecommends ccSPF’s like OSI® QUAD® Foam whichis a polyurethane closed cell, low pressure/lowexpansion sealant to fill the gaps as protectionagainst moisture and air. OSI's closed cell foam alsoachieves a thermal performance of R5 per inch.

ApplicationOSI® QUAD Foam is applied using a Foam ApplicatorGun. This foam and gun combination allows for moreprecise application than the straw grade foam alter-native. This gun offers a rear valve used to controlthe size of bead applied into the openings. The valvealso allows the life of the foam to be extended by clos-ing the opening of the barrel for future use.

For even smaller openings, a detachable screw on topis included with the gun to be able to fill gaps assmall as ¼” wide.


Important tips:• Similar to the sealant gun, it is critical that you balance the movement of the foam gun or straw barrel and how you dispense the foam so that thefoam makes contact with both the rough or existingwindow frame and replacement window frame.

• If the dispensed foam does not make contact withboth the rough frame and the window frame, therewon’t be an adequate bond to seal out water and air.

• Industry Standards suggest application of 1 inchbeads, separated by an equal space. Be careful not to create two vapor barriers - one at the exterior andone at the interior. Make sure there is the ability forthe opening to breathe to the cold side for drying anddrainage. Use backer rod about one inch in the sill asa stop to make a workable back dam

• When applying foam around the perimeter of the window or door, you must maintain a minimumdepth of 1 inch. This depth is required to provide the correct thermal performance, to help improveenergy savings, and to protect against condensationproblems.

• When applying foam as a back dam to the gapbetween the window frame and the rough sill, do not allow the foam to extend to the exterior edge ofthe opening. Maintain a minimum of a 1 inch gapbetween the foam and the exterior edge of the roughsill. If foam fills this gap at the sill, any water fromleakage will not be able to drain to the drainage planeor exterior cladding surface. Place backer rod thelength of the sill, 1” from edge and use it as a backdam guide.

Backer Rod

1”Set Back

FoamBead

FoamBead

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