WEB BASEDAPPLICATION SPECIFIC INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

ReplacingSteelWindows

Although all possible measures have been taken to insure the accuracy of the material presented, WIXSYS, and the author are not liable and do not assume any liability in case

of misinterpretation of directions, misapplication, improper installation, or typographical error.

Replacing Steel WindowsVinyl Windows used as Replacement Windows weredesigned to fit into old wood double hung frames with both sash removed. However, due to consisten-cies in wall thickness of most buildings, other win-dow types (casement, sliders, and other metal win-dows) can be removed and the opening prepared toreceive replacement windows designed to be installed against an exterior “stop.” It is impor-tant to measure accurately and order exact sizes tomaximize fit and minimize trim work. As you readthe following guidelines you can better judge how tospecify windows for a particular installation and howto more accurately estimate labor.

Replacing A Steel WindowNote: These drawings are typical installations.Though not to exact scale, they are representative ofmost situations and are meant as a guide only.

Steel windows were usually installed with screws intothe frame around the opening under the sash ofoperating units or outside the glass of fixed units.Usually covered with putty, most can be located witha little work.

Fixed PanelOperatingPanels

ScrewScrew

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Remove those you can and drill out those you can’t.Once the screws are removed, the whole window unitcan be removed and the opening prepared with cap-ping and/or new blindstop of aluminum/vinyl orwood as described in “aluminum window removal.”

Under frequent circumstances, however, old steelwindows are too firmly embedded to be “removed” asdescribed above. The first step, then, is to removethe window operating assemblies by unscrewing orcutting with recipro-saw or hacksaw.

Once operating assemblies are removed, carefullyremove or tape-protect all glass in the fixed panels.

Using the recipro-saw or hacksaw, cut all remainingmuntins and bottom metal frame leaving sides andtop intact to serve as outside blindstops.

There are a couple of ways to create "the blindstop"to mount the new window against. First is to leavethe old frame intact. Using coil stock, shape a “cap”to fit over the old steel frame remaining in the open-ing. The “U” shaped cap (app. 1”x1”x1”) will coverthe frame and hide the old exterior putty or concreteembedment. Once caulked, the exterior will be neat, finished, and weathertight.

Cover or caulk all cracks and holes. Install new win-dow against outside “blindstop” formed by remainingframe pieces covered by the “U” cap.

The second option is to nail a 1" x 2" around theopening. This wood "blindstop" can be mounted witheither the old steel frame completely removed or leftintact. If the removal of the old frame creates a dam-aged area larger than the 1" x 2" can cover, a largerpiece of wood can be used. If the opening is complete-ly disrupted, a wood buck or frame of 1" x 4" can beattached on all four sides and then the 1" x 2" blind-stop affixed. If the wood buck is necessary, don'tmeasurefor thenew win-dow untilthe woodbuck is in place.

Pre-extrudedshapes or “SnapTrim” canmake thejob easier.Mount the angleof thesnap trimwith “poprivet” or snap into accessory groove to the top of win-dow. After placed in opening, mount angle to othersides.

Cap and caulk additionally as necessary outside, andcaulk and/or trim interior as required.

NOTE: If you can remove the whole frame which isembedded in the masonry/brick, then you can use “F”Channel effectively to cover the opening and install thenew window. See the section of F-ChannelInstallation elsewhere in this manual.

Recipro Saw

Duct Tape

Remaining Steel Frame

Steel Frame Caulk

Capping

Capping

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Bucking theOpening

It is best to install awood buck to cover theold joint. Use Tapconsof sufficient length to

penetrate the masonry1-3/8 “ properly spaced

matching the test.

Mounting NewWindows in

MasonryIf the old window is

mounted in a masonryopening or an opening

with a masonry or brickveneer, and the old

window is completelyremoved, frame and all,it is critical to allow theproper anchoring of thenew window to matchthe required spacingand fastener length.

Anchoring in the home must match the mounting in thelab to duplicate the lab performance in the home and meetcode requirements.

There is a formula that can be used to deliver acceptablespacing for residential installation. Number of fastenersper side = Test Pressure x Width x Height x .0001/4

A 36” x 60” window for a required 40 psf wind pressure:No. of fasteners = (P x W x H)(.0001)/4 figures to be (40psfx 36” x 60”)(.0001)/4 = 2.16 clips

Rounded up to the next higher number, install 3 fastenersstarting 4”-6”” from top and bottom and no more than 16”between - or as specified in the test results.

Mounting the NewWindow

Foam wrap the newwindow and insert intothe opening. Use Screwfasteners of sufficientlength to penetrate the

wood buck 1-3/8”properly spaced tomatch the test. It is

best to avoid penetrating the sill

Finish SealingMounting to the wood

buck will leave the outside face of the buck

exposed. Use finishcapping (aluminum or

pre-fab trim) to seal theexterior to the weather.

Allow adequate silldrainage.

TapCons

MountingScrews

ExteriorTrimPieces

ExposedBuck

AWDI recommends anASTM C920, Class 50sealant such as OSI®QUAD® MAX that isdesigned for exterior/inte-rior use for sealing around windows, siding anddoors. Sealants like OSI®QUAD® MAX bond best to a wide variety of materi-als and their versatility inperformance providesvaluable features and ben-efits for all installers.

AWDI understands that the application of a sealant isas crucial as the choice of sealant. When a bead ofsealant is applied to a joint there are three factors toconsider:• Adhesion• Flexibility• DurabilityWithin these three performance aspects there arecountless combinations of applications, substratesand conditions a sealant is exposed to.

Bedding Joints: For bedding joints, it is especiallyimportant that the sealant is of theright consistency and made up of100% solids so it will not shrinkafter cure, unlike solvent and latexbased sealants that shrink and cre-ate gaps after curing.

Fillet Joints: A fillet joint is formed whentwo surfaces come together toform a right angle. Thesealant used to join these twosurfaces is triangular inshape. The sealant mustadhere to the variety of sub-strates you’re faced with.Without strong adhesionthere is a high chance thatthe sealant will pull awayfrom the substrate allowingfor air and water infiltration.

Control Joints:A control joint is formed when two similar or dissimi-lar materials meet or when substrates do not form aright angle. This joint will require both a backer rodand sealant for proper application. This joint can beas wide as 5/8 inch and be prone to extreme movement, a highly flexiblesealant is necessary for a reliable seal with thisapplication. In order to successfully install a win-dow or door and effect alasting weathertight seal,

Picking the Proper Sealant

Desired Properties

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ADHESIVE JOINT

BOND BREAKER

TAPE

ANGLED JOINT

BACKER ROD

No Shrinkage

Locks out air and water infiltration to protectintegrity of the seal

Proven Wet Surface Application

Ability to use the same sealant in warm and cold temperature situations to produceconsistent results. 0F – 140F cold and warmweather application

Strong Adhesion / All Surfaces Will stick toeven the most difficult to bond buildingmaterials

5X stretch, 50% joint movement Long termdurability assurance even with expansionand contraction of building materials

24 hour fast cure, paintable 1 HR. Fast cureto protect the building structure from outsideforces and quick paintability saves time

Achieves bubbling resistance faster to ensureoptimal aesthetics

4,600 + Color Matches ensures perfect colormatch to all primary building materials

Dirt & Dust Resistance ensures optimal visual appeal long after an installation

UV Resistance

Long term durability to compliment the durability of the building structure

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While the term “Spray Foam” is often widely used inconstruction, there are two different types and eachhas its advantages and disadvantage.

Spray foam has been shunned by window installersand manufacturers over the years because foams, inthe past, have either continued to expand after trimhas been applied deforming the more pliable vinylwindow frames, or because they have been over usedto fill the gaps left when old windows are removedand the underlying rough opening has been exposed.

Make sure the foam you use has been tested toindustry standards and is labeled conforming tostandards as a low expansion, low pressure foam.

Most standards applying to window installation donot delineate between open cell foam and closed cell foam, the more popular “minimal expansion”foams are most frequently used and they are mostlyclosed cell. More confusing yet, is when foams arerecommended, the compressed foam tape alternativesare called out to be open cell.

When it comes to Spray Foams, it helps to under-stand the differences.Open-cell spray foam (ocSPF)has a cell structure where the cells are filled with air.The open-cell structure renders soft, flexible foam,with a density of about 0.5-0.8 pounds per cubic foot(pcf).

The R-value per inch of open-cell foam typicallyranges from R3.6 to R4.5 per inch. Unlike fiberglassand cellulose, the fine cell structure of ocSPF makesit air-impermeable at certain thicknesses. The air-impermeability of ocSPF qualifies it as an air-barriermaterial, dramatically reducing air leakage throughthe building envelope, significantly lowering thebuilding’s heating and cooling costs. However, ocSPF, like fiberglass and cellulose insulations, is moisture-permeable, and may require the installa-tion of a vapor retarder in colder climates.

Closed-cell spray foam (ccSPF) has a closed cellstructure which yields rigid hard foam, with a

density of 1.8-2.3 pound per cubic foot (pcf), and can provide structural enhancement in certainframed buildings. The smaller cells trap insulatinggas from the curing, which has a lower thermal conductivity than still air, and increases the R-valueto anywhere from R5.8 to R6.9 per inch.

Like ocSPF, ccSPF is also air impermeable at certainthicknesses and can qualify as an air-barrier materi-al. The bigger benefit is that the closed-cell structureof ccSPF also makes it water-resistant, and is theonly spray foam that can be used where contact withwater is likely.

At a thickness of 1.5 inches, no additional vaporretarder is required for most applications.

Spray Foam Insulation

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Industry tested and labeled as a LowPressure/Low Expansion; i.e., will not warp or deform windows & doors

Quick Setting Formulation: can be cut ortrimmed in less than 1 hour

Cold Temperature Application: can beapplied in temperatures as low as 14F

Insulation Value of R5: makes it an efficientmethod for stopping air and moisture infil-tration

Remains Flexible Once Cured: will not crackor dry out

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Desired Properties

Using Spray FoamFor the best installation, it is necessary for the gaparound the window or door to be sealed to block outair, water and vapor penetration. ccSPF can do thatwell if selected and used properly. Improper use cancreate water traps, impede drainage and exert exces-sive pressure to the window frame during expansion.

Remember: Vapor barriers need to applied on thewarm side of the opening. Double vapor barriers (one on the warm side and another on the cool side)encourage condensation between and will trap theresulting condensation. Also, window installationcavities (the space between the window frame and the rough opening, or left-in-place old window frame)need to “breathe” to the outside, and allow drainageof collected water to the outside.

Used wisely, ccSPF can be the best solution. AWDIrecommends ccSPF’s like OSI® QUAD® Foam whichis a polyurethane closed cell, low pressure/lowexpansion sealant to fill the gaps as protectionagainst moisture and air. OSI's closed cell foam alsoachieves a thermal performance of R5 per inch.

ApplicationOSI® QUAD Foam is applied using a Foam ApplicatorGun. This foam and gun combination allows for moreprecise application than the straw grade foam alter-native. This gun offers a rear valve used to controlthe size of bead applied into the openings. The valvealso allows the life of the foam to be extended by clos-ing the opening of the barrel for future use.

For even smaller openings, a detachable screw on topis included with the gun to be able to fill gaps assmall as ¼” wide.

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Important tips:• Similar to the sealant gun, it is critical that you balance the movement of the foam gun or straw barrel and how you dispense the foam so that thefoam makes contact with both the rough or existingwindow frame and replacement window frame.

• If the dispensed foam does not make contact withboth the rough frame and the window frame, therewon’t be an adequate bond to seal out water and air.

• Industry Standards suggest application of 1 inchbeads, separated by an equal space. Be careful not to create two vapor barriers - one at the exterior andone at the interior. Make sure there is the ability forthe opening to breathe to the cold side for drying anddrainage. Use backer rod about one inch in the sill asa stop to make a workable back dam

• When applying foam around the perimeter of the window or door, you must maintain a minimumdepth of 1 inch. This depth is required to provide the correct thermal performance, to help improveenergy savings, and to protect against condensationproblems.

• When applying foam as a back dam to the gapbetween the window frame and the rough sill, do not allow the foam to extend to the exterior edge ofthe opening. Maintain a minimum of a 1 inch gapbetween the foam and the exterior edge of the roughsill. If foam fills this gap at the sill, any water fromleakage will not be able to drain to the drainage planeor exterior cladding surface. Place backer rod thelength of the sill, 1” from edge and use it as a backdam guide.

Backer Rod

1”Set Back

FoamBead

FoamBead