revista 054 - nº48
DESCRIPTION
Revista 054 / Nº 48 / Verano 2012-2013 /// Translations in the end of this issue.TRANSCRIPT
foto
: AR
IEL
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IDEA Y DIRECCIÓNAriel Dress / [email protected]ÓNAriel Dress - RaelDIRECCIÓN COMERCIALDarío Dress [email protected]ÓN PALERMOMartín Cerón / [email protected] DIRECTOR DE ARTERael / [email protected]ÓN DE FOTOGRAFÍAMaría Laura Abigador / [email protected] Dress / [email protected]án Dress / [email protected] Logue / [email protected] Lubenfeld / [email protected] Cohen (Fotos) / www.gabrielcohen.com.arTRADUCCIONESSergio Murias / [email protected] EN ESTE NÚMEROJulián - Raúl Manrupe - Daniel Gómez - El GoryJuan Faerman - Ariel López V.
Si querés contactarnos:(0054-11) 3959-0054 / (011)[email protected]
La Revista 054 y 054™ es propiedad de Darío F. Dress. /// Domicilio Legal: Fray Cayetano Rodriguez 325 3ºE, Buenos Aires, Argentina. /// Publicación trimestral y de distribución gratuita. /// 2002 © Hecho el depósito de la ley 11.723. /// Se prohíbe la reproducción total o parcial del contenido de la revista sin la debida autorización por escrito del Director. /// Reserva: Ni 054 ni el Director de la Revista 054 se responsabilizan por el contenido de los anuncios publicita-rios que se incluyen en esta edición.Impresa en Latingráfica. Impresa en papel argentino.
año 11 Nº48enero-febrero-marzo 2013 (verano) | gratis
Foto de tapa: Laura Abigador
TRANLATIONS IN THE END OF THIS ISSUE
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Den Excursión Glaciar Perito Moreno Tradicional /
in Perito Moreno Glacier Traditional Excursion
texto y foto: DANIEL ALDO GÓMEZ*
* Lic. en Cs. Biológicas (UBA) y Master en Fotografía Documental (Newport College of Art, Reino Unido) - www.danielaldogomez.com
s cierto que el fútbol (o el automovilismo, el tenis, el rugby,
el basquet, el volley, etc.) es mucho más popular. Hasta sus primos ecuestres, el polo y las carreras de caballos, tienen mucha más presencia en los medios. Entonces ¿por qué es el Pato el Deporte Nacional?
La respuesta es que, a dife-rencia de los otros, el Pato fue creado en nuestro país. A co-mienzos del siglo XVII ya se registra su existencia. Un de-creto del presidente Perón lo convirtió en Deporte Nacional recién en 1953. En el medio hubo muchísimos años de pro-hibiciones y clandestinidad. Y hasta la amenaza de la iglesia católica de excomulgar al que participara de él.
Es que en sus comienzos, era muy violento. Su nombre viene del uso de un pato vivo en lu-gar de la infinitamente más civilizada pelota con manijas que se usa actualmente. No ha-
bía reglas: todo valía para
sacarle el pato al adversario. Y no pocos partidos terminaban con un jinete muerto al rodar su caballo o al caer y ser atro-pellado por el resto de los juga-dores, que podían llegar a ser unos 200. Algunos más que los 4 por equipo de hoy que se enfrentan en una cancha de 90 x 220 metros. Antes se jugaba en una especie de pista de 1 legua de largo (¡5 kilómetros!). En los extremos, estaban las metas para ambos equipos, a las que había que llegar en posesión del pobre pato y no un aro donde embocar la pelota, como ahora.
Para 1938 se reglamentó el juego, dándole una moderna concepción deportiva. Así se logró que se derogara su prohi-bición y en 1941 se fundó la Federación Argentina de Pato, para fomentar y organizar su práctica.
Pero ni la enorme destreza que nuestro deporte nacional demanda de sus jugadores y ca-ballos, parece alcanzar para lo-grar su popularidad.
texto: RAEL fotos: ALEJANDRO PAGNI dibujos: FRANCISCO MOLINA CAMPOS Si te interesa ver un partido, se puede consultar el calendario y la ubicación
de las canchas en la web de la Federación Argentina de Pato: www.pato.org.ar
A lo lejos en el arrabal suena la queja de un bandoneón que, entre cortes y quebradas, resopla el lamento de una triste melodía. Un tango que añora esas veinte primaveras que ya no volverán. Un tango que lo dice todo sin palabras, porque si no diría que veinte primaveras es, a ra-zón de tres meses por primavera, algo así como sesenta meses, y cinco años es una edad quizás un tanto prematura como para ser un guapo hecho y derecho.
Es tremendamente conmovedora la pena de ese bandoneón que rezon-ga, llora, gime, refunfuña, solloza: se nota que de chico le han faltado unos buenos límites. Pero la psicología no tiene lugar en su fuelle: el bandoneonista es un poeta que sólo cuenta historias de honor. Historias de guapos que no saben lo que es la humillación. De guapos que ig-noran lo que es la vergüenza. De guapos que no conocen la deshonra y la ignominia. De guapos que deberían comprarse un diccionario. De malevos compadritos que hablan con su puñal, como Ecuménico Eichelbaum, alias “El tano”: un bravo varón que cosió a puñaladas a su china, cuando la encontró en los brazos de otro en plena calle, una noche que volvía de la milonga. Es verdad que no se frecuentaban hacía ya ocho años, pero tan cierto como que Ecuménico era poco dado a las decisiones apresuradas y necesitaba un tiempo prudente para procesarlo.
Pero eso es vieja historia, porque Ecuménico ha sabido dejar atrás sus penas, ahogándolas en la bebida. Y aunque el trago hoy puede
ser compadre del olvido, tarde o temprano termina cobrando cara su compañía: cada tanto el dolor del recuerdo vuelve a atormentar a Ecuménico, y no hay alcohol que alcance para tapar las heridas; para eso también hacen falta apósitos estériles y cinta. En lo posible, hipoalergénica.
A pesar de su eterno chambergo con el ala volteada sobre los ojos, Ecuménico no puede disimular que algo lo perturba: su pasado lo persigue. Y esta vez parece que lo ha encontrado: ya irrumpe en la milonga el pobre varón a quien otrora le ha arrebatado su querer, quien le grita puñal en mano: «Si sos tan bravo, acá te espero para arreglar cuentas». Ecuménico sabe que su hora ha llegado y quizás bien merecido lo tenga. Por eso, sin oponer resistencia, extiende sus manos y cierra los ojos, como entregándose. Pero cuando ya casi puede sentir el frío del acero abriéndose camino entre su abdomen, un grito estridente de mujer lo sobresalta: es ella, aquella chinita, que está vivita y coleando. Maravillas de la medicina e ironías del destino, quien él pensó que estaba muerta, fue quien le terminó perdonando la vida.
Entonces, con una sutil reverencia, Ecuménico agradece el gesto mientras se acerca a la mujer y le pregunta: «¿Por qué?». La mujer sonríe y le responde: «No se alegre tanto que para usted tengo reservado una agonía mucho más dolorosa: se llama “pensión por alimentos”. Usted ya sabe… el método de los días puede fallar.».
cuento: JUAN FAERMAN / ilustración: ARIEL LÓPEZ V. COSA DE GUAPOS
B-2 36 BILLARES (Bar) Avenida de Mayo de 1265 (Centro/Downtown) / www.los36billares.com.ar F-1 ACABAR (Cocina Porteña-Juegos) / Honduras 5733 (Palermo Hollywood) / 4772-0845 E-1 ANGELIN (Pizza de barrio) / Córdoba 5270 (Palermo) / 4774-3836 F-2 AUTODROMO VIRTUAL Fitz Roy 1970 (Palermo Hollywood) / 2074-7662 / www.autodromovirtual.com.ar E-1 BAR 6 (Bar - Cocina Internacional) / Armenia 1676 (Palermo Soho) / 4833-6807 E-1 BAR ABIERTO (Resto - Bar) / J.L.Borges 1613 (Palermo Soho) / 4833-7640 A-2 BAR EL FEDERAL (Resto - Bar) / Perú y Carlos Calvo (San Telmo) / 4300-4313 B-1 BAR DE CAO (Bar) / Av. Independencia 2400 (Boedo) / 4943-3694 F-1 BASTA PABLO (Resto-Bar) / Honduras 5615 (Palermo Hollywood) / 4771-1331 F-1 BUENOS AIRES VERDE (Restaurante Orgánico-Vegetariano) / Gorriti 5657 (Palermo H.) / 4775-9594 B-3 CAFÉ TORTONI (Bar tradicional) / Av. de Mayo 825 (Centro/Downtown) / 4342-4328 E-2 CARACAS (Bar) / Guetamala 4802 (Palermo Soho) / 4776-8704 E-1 CHUPITOS BAR (Shooters Bar) / Gorriti 5053 (Palermo Soho) / 4777-3044 B-2 CLUB SEVERINO (Boliche) / Monday Party / H.Yrigoyen 851 (Centro/Downtown) / www.clubseverino.com.ar E-1 CONGO (Bar) / Honduras 5329 (Palermo Soho) / 4833-5857 B-4 DADA (Bar - Restaurante) / San Martín 941 (Centro/Dowtown) / 4314-4787 B-4 DOWNTOWN MATIAS (Pub) / San Martín 979 / 4312-9844 • Reconquista 701 / 4311-0327 (Centro/Downtown) F-2 DUBLINERS (Pub Irlandés) / Humboldt 2000 (Palermo Hollywood) / 4771-6178 D-1 EL BANDERÍN (Café-Bar) Guardia Vieja 3601 (Almagro) / www.elbanderin.com.ar C-3 EL CUARTITO (Pizzería) Talcahuano 937 (Barrio Norte) / 4816-4331 / www.galeriaelcuartito.com.ar A-4 EL OBRERO (Cantina) / Cafarena 64 (La Boca) / 4362-9912 E-1 ESPECIAL (Video Bar) / Av. Córdoba 4391 (Palermo) / 4776-5852 B-1 ESQUINA HOMERO MANZI (Café-Cena-Tango) Av. San Juan 3601 (Boedo) / www.esquinahomeromanzi.com.ar B-4 FILO (Bar - Restaurante) / San Martín 975 (Centro/Downtown) / 4311-0312 A-2 GIBRALTAR (Bar) / Perú 895 (San Telmo) / 4342-5310 F-2 GREEN BAMBOO (Resto - Bar Vietnamita) / Costa Rica 5802 (Palermo Hollywood) / 4775-7050 B-3 GUERRÍN (Pizzería) Av. Corrientes 1368 (Centro/Downtown) / 4371-8141 A-2 HABIBI (Cómida Árabe) / Humberto Primo 527 (San Telmo) / 4300-7172 ó 4307-5833 D-4 HARD ROCK CAFE (Bar - Restaurante) / Av. Pueyrredón 2501 2° piso (Recoleta) / 4807-7625 F-1 HYPE (Boliche) / Tuesday party / Honduras 5339 (Palermo Soho) / www.hype-ba.com F-1 IL BALLO DEL MATTONE (Cocina Italiana) / Gorriti 5737 (Palermo Hollywood) / 4776-4247 F-1 IL BALLO GALLERIA (Bar - Galleria de arte) / Gorriti 5950 / 4776-8648 A-2 ITAMAE (Sushi) / Perú 1112 (San telmo) / 4361-3823 C-4 JACK THE RIPPER (Resto Bar) / Libertad 1275 (Barrio Norte) / 4816-7508 F-3 JACKIE‘O (Resto Bar) / Báez 334 (Las Cañitas) / 4774-4844 E-2 JANIO (Bistró porteño) / Malabia 1805 (Palermo Soho) / 4833-6540/1 / www.janiorestaurant.com A-2 KRAKOW (Café - Bar) / Venezuela 474 (San Telmo) / 4342-3916 B-4 LA CIGALE (Pub) / 25 de Mayo 597 (Centro/Downtown) / 4893-2332 E-1 LA FABRICA DEL TACO (Tacos Mexicanos - Tequila) / Gorriti 5062 (Palermo Soho) / 4833-3534 A-2 LA POESIA (Bar literario) / Chile 502 (San Telmo) / 4300-7340 E-1 LA PECA (Restaurante) / Gascón 1493 (Palermo) / 4867-4280•4864-5926 E-1 LA PULPERIA (Restaurante Argentino) / Uriarte 1667 (Palermo Soho) / 4833-6039
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F-1 LA ROSADITA (Fondue) / Honduras 5710 (P.Hollywood) / 4771-6864 • E-1 Thames 1696 (P.Soho) / 4832-0151 A-3 LA TRASTIENDA CLUB (Bar - Resto) / Balcarce 460 (San Telmo) / 4342-7650 / www.latrastienda.comC-1 LAS VIOLETAS (Confitería) Av. Rivadavia 3899 (Almagro) / 4958-7387 / www.lasvioletas.comE-2 LELE DE TROYA (Resto Bar) / Costa Rica 4901 (Palermo Soho) / 4832-2726F-3 LOTUS NEO THAI (Comida Sudeste Asiático) Arribeños 2265 (Belgano “Barrio Chino”) / 4783-7993F-3 LUPITA (Restaurante - Lounge Mexicano) / Baez 227 (Las Cañitas) / 5197-5149E-2 MAGDALENA’S PARTY (Social Bar) / Thames 1795 (Palermo Soho) / 4833-9127B-1 MARGOT (Café) / Av. Boedo 857, esq. San Ignacio (Boedo) / 4957-0001E-1 MARK’S (Café & Sandwiches) / El Salvador 4701 (Palermo Soho) / 4832-6244E-2 MAXIM (Bar & Bristo) / Borges 1750 (Palermo Soho) / 4831-4002C-3 MILION (Bar - Restaurante) / Paraná 1048 (Barrio Norte) / 4815-9925E-1 MUNDO BIZARRO (Resto - Bar) / Serrano 1222 (Palermo Soho) / 4773-1967F-1 NICETO (Pub - Disco - Multiespacio) / Niceto Vega y Humbolt (Palermo Hollywood) / 4779-9396F-2 NO AVESTRUZ (Bar - Espacio de cultura) / Humboldt 1855 (Palermo Hollywood) / 4777-6956C-3 NOTORIOUS (CD’S - Bar) / Callao 966 (Barrio Norte) / 4813-6888 • 4815-8473E-1 OFELIA (Teatro - Bar - Tapas - Eventos - Arte) / Honduras 4761 / 4831-4037F-1 OLSEN (Restaurante Nórdico) / Gorriti 5870 (Palermo Hollywood) / 4776-7677F-2 OUI OUI ( resto Bar) Nicaragua 6068 y 6099 (Palermo) / 4778-9614 / www.ouioui.com.arF-2 PERÓN PERÓN (Resto - Bar) / Angel Carranza 2225 / 4777-6194C-3 PIOLA (Pizzerie Italiane) / Libertad 1078 (Dowtown) / 4812-0690 /// F-1 Gorriti 5751 / 4777-3698 (Palermo)A-2 PRIDE CAFE (Bar - Café) / Balcarce 869 (San Telmo) / 4300-6435F-1 RAVELLO (Restaurant) / Honduras 5906 (Palermo Hollywood) / 4770-9400 / www.ravello.com.arE-1 QUERIDO GONZALEZ (Resto - Bar) / Honduras 4999 (Palermo Soho) / 4833-2371A-2 SANDINO BAR (Bar) Bolivar 624 (San Telmo) / Abierto de 5pm a 5am los Jueves, Viernes y Sábados.E-1 SANS (Panes & Cerveza) / Serrano 1595 / 4832-7266E-1 SARKIS (Cocina Oriental) / Thames 1101 (Palermo Soho) / 4772-4911F-1 SONOMAN (Bar) / Fitz Roy 1655 (Palermo Hollywood) / 4775-7179F-3 SOUL CAFE (Resto - Bar) / Báez 246 (Las Cañitas) / 4778-3115A-2 SR. TELMO (Pizzas y empanadas a la parrilla) / Defensa 756 (San Telmo) / 4363-0100F-2 SUDESTADA (Cocina Asiática) / Guatemala 5602 (Palermo Hollywood) / 4776-3777 E-2 SUGAR (Resto - Bar) / Costa Rica 4619 (Palermo Soho) / 4831-3276F-3 SUSHI CLUB Ortega y Gasset 1812 • Báez 268 (Las Cañitas) / 0800-222-SUSHI / www.sushiclubweb.com.arE-1 TE MATARE RAMIREZ (Comida Afrodisíaca) / Gorriti 5054 (Palermo Soho) / 4831-9156F-2 THE FITZ ROY (Bar) Fitz Roy 1995 (Palermo) / 4779-0519B-4 THE KILKENNY (Irish pub - Restaurante) / M.T. de Alvear 399 (Centro/Downtown) / 4312-7291C-3 THE SHAMROCK (Irish pub) / Rodríguez Peña 1220 (Barrio Norte) / 4812-3584E-2 THELONIOUS CLUB (Jazz Bar) Salguero 1884 1ºpiso (Palermo) / 4829-1562F-1 TIEMPO DE GITANOS (Tablao - Fonda) / El Salvador 5575 (Palermo Hollywood) / 4776-6143F-3 VAN KONING (Bar Holandés) / Báez 325 (Las Cañitas) / 4772-9909A-2 VIA VIA (Cocina del mundo) / Chile 324 (San Telmo) / 4300-7259 / www.viaviacafe.comE-1 VIEJO AGUMP (Cocina Armenia) / Armenia 1382 (Palermo Soho) / 4773-5081A-2 WAFLES SUR (Wafles) / Estados Unidos 509 (San Telmo) / 4307-2177
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• DUARTE - Godoy Cruz 1725 > 1- Ariel, Ana y Ezequiel 2- Marina e Ingrid• SHELDON - Honduras 4969 > 3- Sofía y Denise 4- Renato y Talita
• CARACAS - Guetamala 4802 > 5- Mario, Tomás, Cristine y Tobías 6- Martina e Ingrid• LA CIGALE - 25 de Mayo 597 > 7- Laura y Yanina 8- María
• SUGAR - Costa Rica 4619 > 9- Enrique, Tim y Valentine 10- Fernando y Mariano• OFELIA - Honduras 4765 > 11- Natalia, Edith, Nati y Gustavo 12- Maura y Betina
• SULLIVAN’S - Jorge Luis Borges 1702 > 13- Kattina y John 14- Florencia y María José• CHUPITOS SHOOTERS BAR - Gorriti 5033 > 15- Estefanía y Ma. Alejandra 16- Mariela y Horacio
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RECORRIENDO BARES >
• LA ADORADA - Gorriti 5055 > 17- Ángela 18- Juan Manuel, Ángela, Nicolás y Nahuel• KRAKOW - Venezuela 474 > 19- Gisel, Audrey y Catalina 20- Juan, Max y Diego
• MARK’S - El Salvador 4701 > 21- Duma, Paula e Ivana 22- Karen y Florencia• LA FÁBRICA DEL TACO - Gorriti 5062 > 23- Ma. Andrea, Ma. Laura y Juliana 24- Lena, Elsa y Paul
• MAXIM - Jorge Luis Borges 1750 > 25- Nina y Bárbara 26- Ashley y Jun• MAGDALENAS PARTY - Thames 1795 > 27- Nahuel, Gastón, Gabriel y Gonzalo 28- Meme y Jenna
Fotos: Gabriel Cohen - www.gabrielcohen.com.ar
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+ CENTROS CULTURALES Y MUSEOS (CULTURAL CENTERS AND MUSEUMS) +D-4 C.C. RECOLETA Junín 1930 / 4803-1040 / www.centroculturalrecoleta.orgC-2 C.C. RICARDO ROJAS Av. Corrientes 2038 / 4954-5523 / www.rojas.uba.arB-4 C.C. BORGES Viamonte y San Martín / 5555-5359 / www.ccborges.org.arB-2 C.C. GRAL. SAN MARTÍN Sarmiento 1551 / 4374-1251 / www.ccgsm.gov.arC-1 C.C. KONEX Sarmento 3131 / 4864-3200 / www.ciudadculturalkonex.orgE-4 MALBA Av. Figueroa Alcorta 3415 / 4808-6500 / www.malba.org.ar D-4 MUSEO DE ARTE DECORATIVO Av. del Libertador 1900 / 4801-8248A-2 MUSEO DE ARTE MODERNO Av. San Juan 350 / 4361-1121 / www.aamamba.org.ar E-3 MUSEO EVA PERON Lafinur 2988 / 4809-3168 / Ma a Do 14 a 19:30 hs. / Bono $5D-4 MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES Av. del Libertador 1473 / www.mnba.org.ar D-2 MUSEO XUL SOLAR Laprida 1212 / 4824-3302 / www.xulsolar.org.ar C-4 PALAIS DE GLACE Posadas 1725 / 4804-1163A-4 FUNDACION PROA Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1929 / 4303-0909 / www.proa.orgF-4 MUSEO EDUARDO SIVORI Av. Infanta Isabel 555 1900 / 4774-9452F-2 MUSEO ENRIQUE LARRETA (Arte Español) Av. Juramento 2291 / 4784-4040
+ FERIAS (FAIRS) +E-1 FERIAS DE ARTE Y DISEÑO Serrano y Honduras / Sa y Do 12hs
F-1 FERIA DE DISEÑO EL DORREGO Av. Dorrego y Zapiola, PalermoB-1 FERIA DE MATADEROS Av. de los Corrales y Lisandro de La Torre / Do 11 a 20hs
A-2 FERIA DE SAN TELMO Humberto I y Defensa, Pza Dorrego, San Telmo / Do de 10 a 17hs
A-4 FERIA DEL PASAJE CAMINITO La Boca / Lu a Do 10 a 18hs
A-3 PASEO EL RETIRO Calabria y R. V. Peñalosa, Pto. Madero / Sa 12 a 22, Do y fer 11 a 22hs
D-4 PLAZA FRANCIA Av. Del Libertador y Pueyrredón / Sa y Do desde 10hs
A-4 FERIA VUELTA DE ROCHA Av. P. de Mendoza y Palos, La Boca / Ju a Do y Fer de 9 a 19hs
+ SITIOS DE INTERES (TOURIST ATTRACTIONS) +D-4 BIBLIOTECA NACIONAL Agüero 2502 / 4806-1929 / www.bibnal.edu.arB-3 CABILDO Av. de Mayo y Bolivar / www.patiodelcabildo.com.arA-3 CASA DE GOBIERNO Balcarce 50D-4 CEMENTERIO DE LA RECOLETA Junin 1760 / 4803-1594 / Lu a Lu 7 a 17:45hs
B-3 CATEDRAL METROPOLITANA Av. Rivadavia y San MartínB-2 CONGRESO DE LA NACION H. Yrigoyen 1849A-4 ESTADIO BOCA JUNIORS Brandsen 805B-3 TEATRO COLÓN Libertad 621 / www.teatrocolon.org.arE-3 JARDÍN ZOOLÓGICO Av. Las Heras y Av. Sarmiento / 4806-7412E-3 JARDÍN BOTÁNICO Av. Santa Fe y Av. Las Heras / 4832-1552E-4 JARDÍN JAPONÉS Av. Casares 3401 / 4804-9141 / www.jardinjapones.comA-3 MANZANA DE LAS LUCES Bolívar, A. Alsina, Perú y MorenoB-3 OBELISCO Av. Corrientes y 9 de JulioB-2 PALACIO BAROLO Av. de Mayo / Lu a Vi de 7 a 22 y Sá de 7 a 12 E-4 PLANETARIO Av. Sarmiento y Roldán / 4771-9393 / www.planetario.gov.ar A-3 PLAZA DE MAYO Av. Rivadavia, Bolivar, H.Yrigoyen y BalcarceA-4 RESERVA ECOLÓGICA Av. Tristán A. Rodríguez 1560 / 0800-444-5343 B-4 TERMINAL DE OMNIBUS RETIRO Av. Antártida Arg. y Calle 10 / 4310-0700
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foto: ARIEL D
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ra un juego, una travesura. Pero con el irresistible sabor de lo clandestino.
Y hasta con el diabólico cosquilleo del peligro. ¿Y si te pescaban? ¿Y si te identificaban? Porque nada como la adrenalina de hacerlo en el propio barrio. Sobre todo a esos vecinos antipáticos. Sólo ha-bía que tomar la precaución de que la cuadra estuviera desierta.
En grupo, la cosa podía estar planeada o, de pronto, uno se
ponía a correr. Cuando el resto entendía lo sucedido emprendían la huida por un crimen que no habían cometido. Solidarios. O cagados en las patas. Para el caso era lo mismo.
El portero eléctrico de un edifi-cio era un piano para una verda-dera toccata y fuga en honor a Bach. Había que tener cuidado con los porteros (no con los eléc-tricos, con los otros, los de carne y hueso).
Saña: volvías a los pocos minu-tos a la misma casa. Crueldad: pegabas un pedazo de cinta scotch o una curitas sobre el botón pa-ra que el timbre no dejara de sonar mientras huías. Sólo para valientes: corrías algunos metros pero volvías caminando para pa-sar, justo cuando salía alguien a atender el falso llamado, con cara de yo no fui. Traición: que en el grupo hubiera un gordito o uno con una pierna enyesada. Voyeur:
lo ideal era encontrar algún escon-dite cercano desde donde disfru-tar el resultado, la cara del vecino enojado ante el engaño.
Por supuesto que uno después crecía, maduraba, llegaba a la adolescencia. No ibas a andar ha-ciendo ring-raje como un nene. ¡No cuando uno ya salía a bailar y podía disfrutar de hacerlo a la madrugada!
Les podría contar mil anécdo-tas, pero los tengo que dejar. Está sonando el timbre.
texto: RAEL
EDITORIAL >>> For this issue’s trip, we did something we’d never done before in the more than 170 thousand kilometres we’ve travelled around Argentina: including another country as part of our main travel story. It’s not that we hadn’t considered it before, nor had it been part of the travel plan for this issue. It simply happened, and it turned out to be highly enrichening. Looking for a route to Calafate which would be different from our previous travels, we found that we could cross the Chilean Patagonia by ferry. There are no rules for travelling, all the more so to visit new places and do stuff we hadn’t done before. And that’s the idea, to be open to whatever the journey brings with it, going with the flow, feeling it, experiencing it. So did Darío and Gaby, who took more than 2000 pictures in two weeks, all of which were spectacular. It wasn’t easy to pick just a few for the story. Then let’s go travel with them!
CALAFATE AND CHALTEN (via Chilean Patagonia) >>> DAYS 1 AND 2: It took a 22-hour journey to get to the first stop, Bariloche, only to go to bed. /// After midday, we reached the second stop: Puerto Montt, in Chile. We checked in at a second-rate hotel and went out to see around. There were thousands of stores of all sorts, lots of people, and the typical hustle and bustle of a port town. Very picturesque. We bought some groceries, chocolates and red wine, and that same afternoon we got on board a boat heading for the Chilean fjords. /// DAYS 3, 4 and 5: Already in the boat, we couldn’t stop wondering at the endless string of stunning and dazzling views. We spent most of the time on the deck. We met people from all over the world, all very friendly, particularly some Chileans who offered us some Piscola (pisco + coke) to warm up, as we shared travel stories. The journey lasted 3 days. The peace and quiet sent by the silence of the sea and those scenic views filled our souls. Snow-capped mountains watched us all the time, glaciers ended their journey into the sea, blocks of ice surrounded us throughout the journey. We even had the privilege of getting down into a little boat and get a closer look at one of them. The pilot brought a couple of small ice blocks onto the boat, which he surely used for the drinks we had that night, when we all ended up dancing at an improvised disco in the boat’s bar lounge.
At sea, the waves rose high and rocked the boat, which was unpleasant for Darío, who had to rush to the cabin to ease the discomfort. /// We slept in an almost ABSOLUTE silence, only disturbed by the distant, purr-like sound of the big engines and the waves that hit the hull of the boat; but far from disturbing the sleep, these soft noises, together with the swing of the boat, made our rest more pleasant. /// DAY 6: Back on solid ground. Puerto Natales (Chile). We were distracted and missed the bus to the Argentinean border. The slip cost us a lot of money, damn!!! But we managed to reach our destination: Calafate. And we received the warmest possible welcome. We met with Julián, a friend of the house, who treated us to some pizza and beer. /// DAY 7: We stretched our legs walking to lake Nimez, about 450 yard distant from Lago Argentino. It’s a very quiet natural preserve. /// In the afternoon, it was time for adventure. A truck picked us up and took us straight to a rock 50 ft high which we were supposed to climb. Hanging up there, holding only with our hands was a little scary, but we made it! Then we rappelled down the rock, it was so much fun! Finally, we took a 27 yd zip-line ride at 10 yd from the ground. Hanging only by a rope, we were scared to death, but it was really exciting.
In the evening, we visited the “25 de Mayo” ranch. We drank mate and ate torta frita, we watched how they sheared a sheep in a few minutes, we drank café carretero, a traditional, rustic way to prepare coffee, by a fire, tried caramel-coated lamb with red wine, and finished off with a stunning Patagonian barbecue as we watched a folk music show. /// DAY 8: The great day arrived: Perito Moreno Glacier day. We put on the crampons and took a long trek on the ice. It was something indescribable, a giant snow carpet below your feet. Each of us was supposed to take their own meal, but we obviously forgot… but managed to eat something thanks to the guides and their homemade pudding. Then we stepped onto the walkways, where we had the glacier in front of us. Listening to the ice ruptures is an unparalleled experience, with the blocks of ice breaking off those massive walls and crashing with a thunderous crash in the middle of a glacial silence. Standing in front of such a wonder is a sublime experience.
DAY 9: Time for a horse ride in the old Lago Roca ranch. Mr. Lucho assigned us a couple of horses and we went out to the hills and the Calafate valley against the incomparable background of the Perito Moreno Glacier, the Roca lake, Cerro Moreno, Cerro Frías, the Magallanes peninsula, the valley of Camiseta river, all of them spectacular. Then Lucho made us lunch, and some lunch it was! He grilled a few steaks with some mushrooms he had picked up along the way. Hard to find words to describe it. At night, after a relaxing
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hydromassage session at the hotel, we went for a few drinks to a downtown bar. /// DAY 10: Next destination: El Chalten. There, everything is amazing. This little village immediately seduces you with its beauty and warmth. We went straight away to conquer some hills. In Chalten you breathe life and freedom, with an incredible atmosphere of peace and quiet. From the top of the Los Cóndores hill, you can see El Chaltén, as in a postcard, and from the top of the Las Águilas hill, you can see lake Viedma and the Túnel bay. It sucked away from us every intention of going back to civilization.
DAY 11: Early in the morning, we had a hearty breakfast and set out to the “Laguna de Los Tres”. The way up was hard. It took us four hours to climb up! On our way to the lake, we went past lake Capri and Pointenot. The silence is overwhelming. Only the wind made itself noticeable, as well as the cold, when the clouds covered the sun. The view was beyond compare. Sitting on a rock, with the majestic mount Fitz Roy before us, we enjoyed a few delicious sandwiches. Some diner we were eating at!! Soon afterwards, the picture turned even better: three American girls joined us with beer. The journey back was slightly shorter: three hours. Our legs ended up numb. /// That night we ended up having a hearty picada with smoked cold cuts and wine in the company of a couple who had traveled the entire American continent by bike, all the way from Argentina to Alaska! We spent the entire evening hearing their many travel stories. /// DAY 12: We were so tired that we took the day off. That evening we said goodbye to El Chaltén with a tasty asado and joyfully started our journey back. Ahead of us lay Route 40. /// DAY 13: We crossed the immense and beautiful Argentinean Patagonia. We slept the night in Perito Moreno. /// DAY 14: More Route 40 up to Bariloche. Bought chocolates. /// DAY 15 (last day): Slept the night on seats 31 and 32 of the bus to Buenos Aires. Happy. /// In Patagonia, you always meet Aoinikenk (villagers).
The story behind the picture > THE SHARK OF THE PONDS >>> It’s a hot and suffocating summer evening, in mid-January, in the heart of the shrubland of the province of Salta, in northern Argentina, precisely in a little village on National Route 81 called Morillo, but listed in the maps as Coronel Juan Solá, about 37 miles off the border with the province of Formosa. We’re sweating like crazy, wearing rubber boots, armed with torchlights and photo and video cameras, chasing toads and frogs around the village streets at 3 in the morning. /// I was with Andrés and Boris, two herpetologists (amphibians and reptile researchers and specialists) from the Bernardino Rivadavia Natural Science Museum in Buenos Aires. Destiny had us meet by random. A nature documentary producer I had worked with in the past asked me to find out about amphibians for the BBC Natural History Unit’s new mega-series LIFE. I couldn’t think of anyone more fit than these unconventional scientists to show the most amazing stuff of the world of Argentine amphibians. /// In the talks we had I learnt that every year, simultaneously with the torrential summer rains, an unparalleled phenomenon takes place in the Chaco region: the so-called “reproductive spurt” of toads and frogs. This means that in a very short period of time, about a few weeks long, almost all species of amphibians in the area go into a reproductive frenzy without equal. Somethich which the BBC was certain to be interested in, as it had never been caught on camera before. /// “Look, Daniel! It’s over there!,” Boris yelled at me, ecstatic. “It’s the Lepidobatrachus Ilanensis, a species endemic to the area, it’s very rare, try to get a picture!” Andrés lighted up the pond with two torchlights to help me find the batrachian. I spot it. It’s huge. It looks like a round, rough stone, with eyes bulging like periscopes. Its head is almost as big as its body. Andrés tells me that this frog is the “shark” of the ponds. It feeds on other frogs and toads, which it swallows in one gulp. It will even eat its own kind, as long as they fit in its mouth! /// I have to lay on my belly on the dirt road, so I can be at a same level with those cold staring alien-like eyes. I don’t mind getting wet and dirty with mud, nor do I care about the fetid smell of the still waters, or the mosquitoes torturing me. I only care about getting the picture. /// By Daniel Aldo Gómez - Biologist (University of Buenos Aires, Master of Documentary Photography (Newport College of Art, United Kingdom).
PATO >>> True, soccer (and even car racing, tennis, rugby, basketball, volleyball, etc.) is much more popular. Even its equestrian nex-of-kin, polo and horseracing, receive much more extensive media coverage. So, why is pato Argentina’s national sport? /// The answer is that, unlike the other sports, pato was actually created in Argentina. It dates back to the early 17th century. A decree issued by president Perón declared it National Sport as late as in 1953. In between, there had been many years of prohibition and underground play. Even the Catholic Church threatened to excommunicate anyone who played the game. /// In its early days, it was a very violent game. It gets its name from the fact that originally the game was played with a live duck (Spanish ‘pato’) instead of the infinitely more civilized ball with handles used today. There were no rules: every kind of move was allowed to get the duck out of the rival’s hands. And many a match ended up with a rider rolling down his horse and getting trampled to death by the other players, sometimes as much as 200, a little more than the 4 players per team that nowadays play in a 100x240 yd field. In the past, the play field was a strip about 3 miles long. At the ends were the goals, which players had to reach while holding the unfortunate duck, rather than rings through which you had to shoot the ball, as it is today. /// By 1938 rules were adopted, according
to which the game acquired a modern sport’s shape. This contributed to lifting the ban, and in 1941 the Argentine Pato Federation was established to promote and organize the practice of the game. /// And yet, not even the huge skill required by Argentina’s national game from players and horses alike seems to be enough to make the game popular. /// If you’d like to watch a game, you can check out the fixture and location of pato fields on the Federation’s website: www.pato.org.ar LAMENT FROM A BANDONEÓN - A MACHO MAN ISSUE (short story) >>> From the distance of the poor quarters came the lamenting sounds of a bandoneón which, amidst the swings and turns of tango dancing, blows the mourning notes of a sad tune. A tango song which longs for those twenty springs that will never come back. A tango song which says it all without any words; otherwise, it would say that twenty springs, at a rate of three months per spring, equals about sixty months, perhaps not enough time for someone to grow up to be a fully-fledged tango macho man. /// That bandoneón’s lament is extremely touching, with its weeping, grumbling, sobbing, crying: obviously, it was completely spoiled as a kid. But psychology has no place in its bellows: a bandoneón player is a poet who only tells stories about honor. Stories about bullies who don’t know what shame is. Who don’t know what dishonor is. Who don’t know what ignominy is. Who should probably get a dictionary. Stories about bullies who speak through their knives, like Ecuménico Eichelbaum, a.k.a. “the Italian”: a fierce man who stabbed his girl when he found her in the arms of another in the street, one night when he was coming back from a dance. True, they had split up eight years before, but it is no less true that Ecuménico was reluctant to take hasty decisions and needed some time to think things through. But that is old his-tory, because Ecunémico has managed to get it all behind, drowining his grievances in alcohol. And even though drinking may help forget, sooner or later it will take its toll: every now and then, the pain of those memories once again tortures Ecuménico and it seems there isn’t enough alcohol to heal his wounds. For that, he will also need sterile bandages and medical tape. Hypoallergenic, if possible. /// In spite of his distinctive hat with its brim pulled down low, Ecuménico can’t hide away from the fact that something is upsetting him: his past is after him. And this time it seems to have found him: breaking into the dance is the poor lad whose girl he had once stolen, and who shouts at him, knife in hand: “Let’s see if you’re brave enough to settle things now.” Ecuménico knows that his time has come, and perhaps he had it coming. Thus, without resisting, he stretched out his hands and closed his eyes, as if he were giving in. But right before he could feel the cold steel forcing its way through his belly, a woman’s shrieking cry startled him: it was her, her old love, alive and kicking. Wonders of medicine and ironies of fate. She, who he thought dead, was saving his life. /// Then, with a subtle bow, Ecuménico thanked her noble gesture as he came up to her and asked: “Why?” The girl smiled and replied, “Don’t be so happy. I have a much more painful agony reserved for you. It’s called ‘child support’. You know… the calendar-based method can fail”.
PICK-UP LINES FROM BUENOS AIRES >>>Could you tell me the time? I need to tell my shrink the exact moment I went mad. /// You’re so sweet you gave me a toothache. /// What were the pirates thinking when they left behind such a treasure?! /// I’d give you a mirror; the most beatiful thing next to you is your mirror-image. /// Baby, all those curves, and me with no brakes!!! /// Dazzle me with your eyes so we’ll collide head-on. /// You should be called Google: you’ve got everything I’m searching for. /// Your mom must be a toymaker, ‘cause you’re such a doll.
MEMORIES OF RING-AND-RUN >>> It was just a game, a prank, but with the irresistible flavor of the forbidden. And even the devilish tickle of danger: What if you were caught? What if you were spotted? Because there’s nothing like the thrill of doing it in your own neighborhood. Especially doing it to those unsociable neighbors. You only had to check in advance that the street was desert. /// When done in group, the prank could either follow a scheme or you would simply ring and shoot off. When the rest realized what was going on, they fled the scene of a crime they had not committed, out of solidarity, or out of fear. It made no difference. /// A building’s doorphone was like a piano in which you could play a toccata and fugue–and then become a fugitive in your own right. You had to beware of doormen. /// If you wanted to be particularly cruel, you attacked a house again a few minutes later. The maximum level of cruelty was sticking a piece of scotch tape or a band aid on the doorbell so that the bell wouldn’t stop ringing as you ran away. This one was just for the brave: you ran for a few meters but went back slowly past the door at the precise moment when someone came out to address the false ring, acting as if you didn’t know. This one was treacherous: playing ring-and-run when one of your buddies was a little overweight or had a plastered leg. And there was room for voyeurism too: finding some nearby hiding place from where you could enjoy your achievement, the face of the victim, angry at finding out they’d been had. /// Of course, you then grew up into your teenage years, and that wasn’t a time of your life to play ring-and-run like a kid anymore. Not when you already were going dancing and could play it in the early hours! /// I could tell you a thousand stories, but I gotta go now… They’re knocking at my door.
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