ricks musings on the 451

Larry G

oodson M

arine S

urveyo

r Inc.

Anyway, I don't know alot about the 110's history, but DO know something about the 51. The 51 series came to be late in 1952, was only made till early '54. So about a year I heard. Mine's a '53 4-51. It was designed to be America's most inexpensive diesel engine and was used mainly for stationary applications and in construction machinery, and was also made with a "downshot" exhaust manifold for small trucks (must have been a terriffic performer!) as well! It was a "use it for everything" engine. Ironically, it flows and breathes alot better than a uniflow 53, 71, etc engine! With a non restrictive exhaust it's VERY VERY efficient! In fact, loop scavenged 2 stroke diesels are notorious for their efficiency. As long as the exhaust is free flowing they're ultra efficient. And no valves to cause potential problems. it was only made for a short time because I heard the uniflow 53's came about in '53 and there was no reason to continue with the 51. Too bad because this was one of the best diesel designs ever concieved! I only ever have seen 3 of these in my life---the 4-51 my dad had cobbled into a Case 1000 track loader back when i was a kid in the 1970's, and the one I own now I got from California, and one recently listed on ebay. I've only seen pictures of the 2-51 and never saw one in the flesh. I'd love it if they'd have built a 3-51---a 3 cylinder valveless 2 stroke would sound so WAY cool! Can you say "snowmobile on steroids" anyone? The 51 was balanced better than a Rolls-Royce. Literally. My bud at the fair balanced a quarter or a nickle (not sure) on the rocker cover while my 4-51 was idling then told me to run it up to full governed no load RPM then back down and I did---several times, and the coin never budged! It just sat dead steady. The simple balancing arrangent and the 2 stroke principal combine to make a diesel that's something most aren't--SMOOTH! Ironically no 4 stroke could ever match the balance of a Detroit that didn't even have valves in it! LOL! They were rugged, smooth, powerful extermely thrifty on fuel, and notoriously clean burning. Add to this they were relatively light weight for a diesel of the times (1953) and they sounded amazing (yes---they sound BETTER than any uniflow Detroit you'll ever hear---I was amazed at that!) and they are a real joy to work on and maintain. (tho rather dirty like all diesels) This beauty was only made a year or so, ditto on the 2-51 which may have only been made a month or 2! The prefect diesel and we didn't have the sense to realize it! Anyway, hope this helps a little. My 4-51 is a sweetie, and she LOVES to run---and run and run, full load, wide open, and making that amazing music only a high speed valveless 2 stroke can! Rick C-6.

of 1DetroitDiesel : Message: Re: [Detroit Diesel] Re: 51 HEY RICK

6/11/2007http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/DetroitDiesel/message/6825

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/DetroitDiesel/message/6825

Larry G

oodson M

arine S

urveyo

r Inc.

Block heaters help, but on a detroit they just waste electricity unless it gets WAY below zero and/or the engine is worn quite a bit. Remember--Detroits run low compression for a diesel---16:1 (typically the same as a spark-ignition top fuel dragster engine actually) for the valve uniflow 53, 71 and 92, etc series, and slightly higher 18:1 for the valveless 51 series. Therefore cold starting with ether os something that was designed right into a Detroit. some high compression 4 strokes will immediately knock and even lock on ether even when spinning over fast. A Detroit just simply starts up, no knocks no problem. Even if ya hear a little rattling and knockiong don't fret as it's slight and will not harm the engine and it'll be fine. Also, using the above method saves starters and batteries, saves fuel, saves the engine from possible oil dilution and saves electricity and the fire hazard of using charcoal ot other heat sources and the wasted time doing it. What takes between 3 minures to 5 hours will take like 15-45 seconds this way! after all the years I've been around these engines, I've never damaged one using this method and it nearly always works as long as the batteries are strong. A battery heater is a good idea, not a block heater on a Detroit. Rick C-6.

Page 1 of 1DetroitDiesel : Message: Re: [Detroit Diesel] Manuals and Winter starting woes.



Larry G

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This is SO cool! Just like mine except mine has the small air cleaner mounted directly on the blower, and doesn't have the rear cowl for a hood, only the front one on the radiator because the guy made his own base for it. Whoever buys it will have to free up the injectors like I did on mine. I know what to do now, so if any of ya buy her, i can guide ya thru the injector restoration process. Seems fuel gums up in these and sticks the injectors like gum in a carb plugs the jets. With a good cleaning there's no doubt this baby will purr just like mine and you can hear the best running diesel ever built! These even make the uniflow Detroits seem a bit lame. Terriffic engine! I'm taken aback one is on ebay tho! Rick C-6!

Page 1 of 1DetroitDiesel : Message: Re: [Detroit Diesel] 4-51 Detroit Diesel on Ebay



Larry G

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DETROIT DIESEL 4-51 COMPLETE POWER UNIT Only made 3 years 1951-1953. Complete with PTO Clutch. Starting bid: US $1,000.00 Time left: 6 days 19 hours 7-day listing, Ends Oct-14-05 14:22:04 PDT Start time: Oct-07-05 14:22:04 PDT History: 0 bids Item location: Memphis, TN United States Ships to: United States Seller information 1gwdiesel ( 1 ) Feedback Score: 1 Positive Feedback: 100% Description Cleaning out the classics from the G&W Diesel warehouse! This auction is for a SUPER CLEAN, COMPLETE power unit. This is a four cylinder, Series 51 engine. This is the predecessor to the venerable 53 series. This engine was only made between 1951 and 1953. The serial number indicates this is about a 1952 model. The Series 51 engine HAS NO VALVES. It is a TRUE 2 CYCLE. It only has ports in the liners for the intake and exhaust. The engine is appx. 55 horsepower. The rated speed on this engine is 2,250 RPM. The maximum RPM for the 51 Series engine is 3,000. Power Unit comes complete with radiator, gauges, stop/run controls, oil bath air cleaner, muffler/flapper, frame rails and a General Motors (Rockford) 10" P.T.O. clutch. Included in this auction is a vintage, General Motors Diesel, Series 51, Operator's Manual, dated Jan. 1953. This engine was in running condition before storage in our warehouse about 15 years ago. The engine runs on WD-40, but will not keep running on Diesel. The injectors must be stuck after sitting for all these years. On WD-40 the engine runs smooth and has good oil pressure. With a little TLC, this would make a great conversation piece for your Flywheelers Antique Equipment Club, or a classic power to run that small saw mill, grist mill, sorghum mill or duck pond pump. Bid to own, no reserve.




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Email your zip code to get a shipping quote. This unit weighs about 2,000 lbs. Shipping will be added to the total, checkout price, or we can ship freight COD using your choice of shippers. For over 48 years: G&W Diesel Services 892 Kansas St. Memphis, TN 38106 1-800-458-8748




Larry G

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r Inc.

Mart--alot! First, the body is a different design and shape, second, the spray pattern is a wide, almost flat "umbrella" pattern because the combustion chamber in the loop scavenged valveless 51's is in the head, not the piston. Also, the racks are really rotary disc valves with arms on the discs. A flat bar runs alongside the injectirs and attaches to each arm sticking out the side. The conrol bar moves forward and back. In doing so, it merely swings the protruding arms on the disc valves fore and aft, There is no rack sontrol tube that turns with doenward protruding arms that have balls on the end that mesh with the "U" shaped yokes on the ends of the racks, the rotary motion of the tube moving the control arms and oushing and pulling the racks straight in and out. So the comtrol machanism is completely different. To set the racks on a 53, 71, or 92, you loosen ste rack arm set screw or clamp, and turn the adlusting screws to move the rack in or out till all are set the same--at the extreme end of the travel, so all move in exact unison. In the 51, you leave the injector clamps loose (with the lines attached) and put a big ol' crescent type wrench on the flats of the injectir body, and with the control bar at the extreme end of it's travel (usually shut down, but also full throttle will do it too), you turn the entire injectir till the control valve arm ciontacts the end of it's slot. Then tighten the clamp, repeat with the othere till all are at the end of the slot. same idea, different way to do it. Another majir difference here is the connections to the injectfeed and return lines. On regular DD injectors the connections are usually on one side of the plunger and stich straight up. On the 4-51, the connectors are on the sides of the body, directly opposite each ther, at about a 30 degree upward angle. So even the lines are way different. The rocker shaft is sectional, with a seperate short section for each rocker (remember--no valves, only 1 rocker to a cylinder) connected together by short hoses for carrying the oil. A novel yet simple design! Rick C-6.

Page 1 of 1DetroitDiesel : Message: Re: [Detroit Diesel] HELP! 4-51 INJECTORS NEEDED, A...



Larry G

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I have a magazinf ad from 1953 showing a 4-51 on an irrigation pump. As used, it was making 85 HP, well below what it can make. The valveless Detroit has virtually no upper HP limit, per-se. 125HP is about right, and it will make 200 or more if set up right and run at high revs. The valveless design is known for high efficiency and large HP and RPM capabilities---no ither engine can breathe as freely as a valveless loop scavenged, or opposed piston uniflow scavenged 2 stroke diesel. The valve uniflow design was clever on Detroits, but it was horribly restrictive and limited HP ratings terribly. Even the 'N' series 4 valve head Detroits can't even come close to the performance potential of a valveless 51. And a 2 valve per pot 4 stroke is just plain a JOKE! Even the 4 valve 4 strokes (2 intake 2 exhaust) are horribly inefficient and make no HP at all unless they have a turbo or blower shoving the air in, but still, the exhaust still has trouble getting out. The 51 series were noted for especially clean combustion with a totally smokeless exhaust because ALL the burned gases were thoroughly blown out, and the engine always had an excess of combustion air. Throw a restrictive long exhaust pipe or worse yet a car muffler on, and the 51 becomes a dog, smoking and making little usable power. Straight pipe it or use a straight thru muffler and a short pipe, abd she makes bookoo HP and responds instantly The stock exhaust manifold was the main design goof up on these fine engines. It did have a large passage size, but it was a "log" tyoe manifold, and this still restricted the exhaust flow a bit, but usually not enough to be a problem if the right exhaust was used. If a clever person created a pair of steel headers, with 2 cylinders each to a 3" pipe, for dual exhaust on the 4-51, the HP would go well higher---I mean it'd increase quite a bit more over stock! Besides, a set of headers would look and sound amazing on a 4-51! Rick C-6. 0one seperate open dragster style pipe per cylinder would be SO rad!) mart4@... wrote:I saw an magazine ad, dating from the early 1950's, for sale on e-bay recently, for Detroit Diesel 4-51 marine engines. D.D. was pushing them at the time, as main powerplants for small to medium sized (30 to 45 ft) pleasureboats and yachts and to drive marine gensets on bigger boats. The "marine powerplant" version was rated at about 125 hp, I think. I didn't bid on the ad or even save the pic from ebay. Arrgh! : (.

Page 1 of 1DetroitDiesel : Message: Re: [Detroit Diesel] 51 Series



Larry G

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Re: [Detroit Diesel] 51 Series Yup. It works on the simple 2 stroke principle just like a gasoline 2 stroke. In fact the port arrangement is identical to a gas 2 stroker. First: the piston has just covered the ports. The cylinder is full of fresh clean air. It rises amnd compression begins, and the air is compressed to 1:18th of it's original volume, or 18:1 compression ratio. This heats the air to around 1,000-1500 degrees, in typical doesel fashion, and near the top of the compression stroke, the fuel is injected, and it ignites. Then the power stroke commences as the piston starts downward. The hot expanding gases push the piston down on the power stroke like in any diesel or gas engine. NOW: the exhaust ports are taller than the intakes which ar directly on the opposite sides of the cylinder. The air passage to the intake ports (airboxes) are specially angles sharply upwards for a reason I'll explain in a second. Since the exhaust ports are taller, as th piston goes down and nears the completion of the power stroke, it uncovers the exhaust ports first, and the hot, pressurized burnt gases begin to escape, causing "blowdown" where the pressure in the cylinder drops to that of the atmospher surrounding the engine, and the vast majority of the burnt gases escape to the air via the manifold and pipes, etc. This is what makes the actual exhaust sound, the instant the exhaust ports open. The piston continues downward towards bottom dead center (BDC), and shortkly after the exhaust ports open and blowdown occurs, the intakes on the opposite side of the cylinder begin to open, and air under pressure from the blower begins to enter the cylinder. Here's where the special angle of the airbox in the 51 comes in. The angle directs the air nearly straight up the f dide of the cylinder to the head, where it hits the head anmd bounces off, 'looping" down the opposite side towards the exhaust ports, pushing remaining burned gases out ahead of it. as the piston gets to TDC and fully uncovers the intake ports, not inly does it loop up to the head and back down, but it also goes straight across, thoroughly removing all the burned gases in the process, blowing them out the exhaust. The same thing happens in a gas 2 stroke, except g for 2 things. First in the diesel, pure air is used to scavemge out the burned gases. In the gasoline engine a fuel-air mixture scavenges the cylinders. And second, in the diesel, a blower supplies the necessary pressurized air. In the gasoline engine, the crankcase is used as a pump instead of a blower. Otherwise it's identical in both. After the cylinder "scavenges" and is filled with clean fresh air, the piston rises again, and the intake ports close first, then the exhaust ports, compression begins, and the 2 strokes repeat over and over, so it's compression, power/scavenging. The 2 strokes. Hence the term 2 stroke diesel. The principal sounds complex, but it's as simple as possible--no engine is simpler than a valveless loop scavenged diesel or gas engine. And in spite f what the engineers think, they are VERY efficient AS LONG as the exhaust is free and unrestricted. Back pressure will make a 51 run real bad because it won;t allow free scavenging of the burned gases. On the other extreme, a gasoline 2 stroke nEEDS back pressure to a certain extent to prevent the fuel/air mixture from excessively being wasted out the exhaust, causng power loss, "4 stroking" or "stuttering". anmd high fuel consumption, so a properly tuned exhaust is essential on the gas engine. on the diesel, only air is lost, and the cylinder still fills to the proper volume, so an open exhaust is best for peak power and efficiency on a 4-51 or 2-51. I have bith a service manual AND an operators' manual for my 4-51. Like the engine, the book is EXTREMELY RARE. The service manul has many pages, but i may be able to copy t, if you want to pay for the copies and shipping. It'll be ALOT of loose pages tho! LOL. I will not lend it our nor sell it. too risky and too rare. Do you have a 51? Rick C-6!

Page 1 of 1DetroitDiesel : Message: Re: [Detroit Diesel] 51 Series



Larry G

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r Inc.

The 51 only has ONE rocker arm per cylinder instead of 3. The other 2 outer ones in "normal" Detroits operate either the 2 or 4 exhaust valves. The center operates the injector. In the 51 there are only the center ones for the injectors, as this engine has NO valves at all. It's a simple (and efficient to beat the band too!) "loop" scavenged 2 stroke pretty much identical to a chainsaw or snowmobile or outboard motor engine in basic design and principle. Only differences are it uses compression ignitioon and fuel injected directly into the cylinders in ordinary diesel fashion, and uses the typical detroit blower to scavenge the cylinders as opposed to crankcase compression in the gasoline equivalents. Basically a giant chainsaw engine with no spark plugs. The head is different in many ways from a typical Detroit. The injectors are different, witu little toggle type levers protruding out the sides that are actuated by a square solid rod with pins that engage holes in the ends of the "toggle arms" on the injectors and arew retained by simple spring clips attached directly to the square rod if I remember correctly. The rod slides back and forth longitudinally with the length of the head, and rides in lieelt machined "saddles" cast into the head. The governor is at the back of the head, on the blower side and is a simple vacuum diaphragm type operated off vacuum in the intake side of the blower and regulated by a butterfly valve and venturi in the blower. Increased vacuum closes the injector throttles till equilibrium is reached. less vacuum opens the throttle till again equlibrium is reached. When yu operate the throttle, it has NO mechanical connection with the "racks" at all in a 51. You merely open and close the butterfly in the intake to vary the vacuum and the governor spring controls the rack over the diaphragm. Simple as can be and works great. A seperate lever in the head mechanically throws the "rack" to no fuel position independent of the vacuum throttle lever to shut it down. The combustion chambers are in the head, so therefore not the "open" type of chambers used in valve uniflow DD's, and the head has recessions for the chambers and not flat like the deck type head of a uniflow DD with valves. The injector sprays in an inverted pattern UP into the chamber in the head, instead of down in a narrow cone into the swirl design of the uniflow DD's open chambers in the piston crowns. Therefore the combustion takes place in the HEAD after initiation of injection in a 51, and in the PISTON in all other DD models. The head also uses external fuel manifolds and these are NOT cast as part of the head. And the water pump is bolted to the head too like on an old 2 stroke SAAB I think. Rick C-6.

Page 1 of 1DetroitDiesel : Message: Re: [Detroit Diesel] Junkman



Larry G

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OK, I was in tears last night thinking of my 4-51 sitting n that museum and freezing solid this winter breaking into shards. i expressed my large concerns to my best friend in the club, Ed Gifford, and he said he'll gladly drain it and put anti freeze in next week for me. We can't start it, but anti freeze should do it. I got pretty emotional, and he said we're def making an appointment to get that done as I cannot reach it with my chair at all, he saw where it is. He'll be able to do it easily tho. What a load off my chest. I also almost had a sound clip but they put it away before I could record it. I bought a tape recorder but returned it yeaterday, no sense in keeping it, because it'll sit till next year--I'll deal with getting a clip then. I need that money now at least until i get disability hopefully soon or I'll starve to death here (aother story entirely, and I won't go into details here)! LOLOLOL! Anyway, looks like problem solved. Rick C-6.

Page 1 of 1DetroitDiesel : Message: 4-51 water still in it---UPDATE



Larry G

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Hi, all! The beast has awoken from it's long slumber, and it took alot of work to awaken it! I got it all done except the idler pulley from an anti-tipper because this will not fit between the fuel pump and fan. So, i removed the belt totally--who needs a radiator anyway to fire an engine up I said! LOL! The water pump is also obviously disabled. But with a block full of water, you can run an engine with no load at least 20 minutes safely. I cranked and cranked and cranked, till I started seeing smoke, and used some ether, got a few firings and it even kicked back, but my battery kept dying fast. Eventually we junped the battery off my truck, and the first try it darn near started. I then let it sit a few minutes and drained more old junk out of the secondary stage filter. I pumped up the primer bulb in the outboard motor fuel line, and my bud at the fair said try er again. I touched those 2 wires servng as my "starter button" together,, she cranked, then started cranking wicked fast. I stopped, and let it sit a few seconds and touchd the wires again, she spun over really fast assisted by firings, and came to life, showering us all with czrbon particles! I only revved it slightly at first, then gradually brought up the RPM. Bear in mind the water pump and fan were not working at all. The restrictive fitting in the return manifold was missing, so I used a 1/4" ball valve, and during start up had it closed completelly to force some fuel under high pressure into the injectors--a smart thing to do. it helped get things working. After a few seconds i realized the throttle was lightly sluggish and it was smoking heavily, and I realized it had too much fuel pressure because the return "restrictor" valve was closed! LOL! I opened it, and she started picking up RPM immediately and the sluggishness went away! like a carb being too rich--same in a diesel. I'll have to fine tune my homemade "restrictor valve" when i get the fan belt on and can run it continuously, till the exhaust becomes clean and clear. Also, the 4-51 can run on straight kerosene just fine. says so in the manual. Right now, i have year old (actualy alot older) home heating oil in it from last year taken from the 2-71 tank. It's black and heavy,, so this prolly was whet made it so darn hard to get started, as well as he fuel prime, injectors needing to get working again, and likely partially stuck rings lowering compression. I'll just mox xome fresh diesel and kero into this fuel oil, and use it all up. Then maybe run it on a mix of 90% kero, and 10% diesel, with marvel oil it it for storage. Amybe even run it on near straight marvel oil to protect the injectors. I'll add diesel fuel conditioner to the fuel tomorrow as well. And marvel. HOW IT SOUNDS! One word--TERRIFFIC!!!!!!!!! And that's beyond all belief! Basically, if you close your eyes, you hear a 318 8V71N in this engine 100%! It sounds practically exactly like a 318 V-8 'troiter! It does NOT sound like any other 4 banger Detroit except for a passing resemblance. Honestly, no offense to you 4-53 fans, but I never liked the sound of this venerable 'Troiter. These are "tinny" sounding like a dirt bike 2 stroke motor, and no matter what exhaust they have they sound kinda harsh. The 4-71 sounds much throatier and better but still a bit harsh especially at high revs. But this-----the 4-51 sounds perfect! If ever there was a perfect diesel

Page 1 of 2DetroitDiesel : Message: Re: [Detroit Diesel] IT LIVES!!!! YAY!!!! THE 4-51 IS M...



Larry G

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exhaust note this is it. Bear in mine this has no muffler--just a 2 foot straight pipe with a rain flapper. BUT--to me surprise and amazement, it was NOT the loud, nasty screaming beast I thought it'd be. To the contrary--its ultra mellow, quiet, and low pitched. At idle it has a throaty growl that surpasses a 318 'Troiter and for sure any 4-53. It revs smoothly thru the full range, that vacuum governor a wonder of smooth response, and absolute precision operation. The note gets lightly higher pitched, but even at about 4,000-4500 RPM (which I had it to for like 2 minutes straight to blow carbon out) it's mellow, soft, quiet, and most pleasing. I will venture to say that even under full load, this will be well in the tolerable volume range! The full sound spectrum is perfect from idle to full revs and even at slght overspeed. no fear of overspeeding--this engine handles it so easily it's uncanny! This is wothout a doubt the most musical 'Troit ever built, period! The uniflows sound great, but will sound like they have problems if run next to a 4-51. Even my fave--the 12V71, has been pushed just below the 4-51 on my scale of favorite detroit sounds! This is some SWEET stack music---this even sounds better than a classic American V-8 or a 426 HEMI! MUCH better! The fact it's quiet amazed me, but than again I'm not surprised by a Detroit doing the opposite of what you'd expect in terms of raw sound volume! A muffler is redundant and unnecesary on this engine. As for performance----this is one FINE engine all the way! I can't believe this was a "cheapie" model from Detroit! They have banlanced this engine so carefully, it'll easily make a Rolls-Royce silver shadow engine seem rough. And this is no joke--it's literally! I had removed a brass plug from the blower to spray a little ether in to help get the fire atarted and make her knock some to free the rings. This plug was in a precarious position on the bell housing, and it never even moved! from idle to full revs, this engine runs smoother than an electric motor! It's perfectly balanced and just a mechanical wonder to behold. This engine, if it was ever made in 6, 8, and 12 cylinder versions for trucks would literally make today's 4 strokes seem archaic in comparison. I didn't know a diesel was capable of this kind of smoothness till today! This is engineering at it's best, and a fine peice of machinery that the folks at Rolls-Royce and Mercedes-Benz would go crazy about and admire to the fullest! What a beautiful piece of engineering this little valveless detroit is! She loves to sing me tunes when I play t wioth that throttl lever too------2-stroke music! All with no valves! What was that about 4 srokes being better? In what way? LOL! Rick C-6--excited beyond

Page 2 of 2DetroitDiesel : Message: Re: [Detroit Diesel] IT LIVES!!!! YAY!!!! THE 4-51 IS M...



Larry G

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OK, I'm ready to reinstall the injectors in the 4-51 and make some serious noise. But, there's one issue I want opinions on. The noses of the injectors had rusted a little, one injector out of 4 rusted all round the nose, and is pitted a little after clean up. I cleaned them off with a brass wire brich, and they look decent except for the pitting. Before I drop em back into the coppers, should I coat the noses with something to seal em and compensate for this slight pitting? I honsetly don't think it'll cause enough leakage if any to cause problems. My pop said there was a guy in the military who was a Detroit whiz, and this guy and 2 others could literally completely rebuild a 6-71 in an hour and a half! He said to my pop sometimes the injector noses get rusty when sitting on the bench, he just brass brushed em like I did, put some grease on tm, and dropped em in, and away she went. I agree with this. Just slather some grease on and they should seal plenty fine. When the grease cooks a bit, it'll form a dandy sealing compound. What do ya think? It;s a cinch I have to use em in spite of slight puitting from rust, and I think trying to lap a fresh surface is too risky. I guess I can pick up some crocus cloth and use it with oil and clean the pits up a bit especially on the one worst one. But I still say, crocus or not, if they're greased, they'll seal just fine in the coppers, especially since the soft copper will mold itself to the pitted areas. What'cha think? I think it's a Detropit and it won't care about slightly pitted injector noses myself! If this was a Come-Apart you'd have to friggin' polish the new injectors or the POS won't run at all---but this isn't a lousy no-go 4-joke Cummins Come-Apart. It's a rugged bulletproof pour sand in the cylinders while reassembling and get grit in the bearings by dropping them in the dirt doesn't care about stuff like that Detroit! So I think I'm homefree here. I misplaced my damn book too, so I'll have to go it by memory. Watch the friggin' book turn up a month after I get this animal belching flames out of the stack and pleasing crowds! LOLOLOL! Rick C-6! (feeling pretty good about how I saved those injectors!)

Page 1 of 1DetroitDiesel : Message: OK GOT THE INJECTORS WORKING, NOW ONE MIN...



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Ivan I agree! Like the 4-51---people rail me about the DD with no valves that had no power at all. Really? So 85 HP is no power? I'd like to see a modern 4 stroke with no turbo with this displacement make what this does, and do it reliably! Ain't gonna happen! And that SOUND! Man! Here's an engine that's been around since the early 1950's and is still excellent mechanically, and after I reinstall the injectors, ready for years of trouble free service! And these little valveless 2 strokes were known for a totally clear and clean exhaust--no smoke at all. What more could you want from a diesel? And no valves to play with or give trouble to boot---the 4-51 was an ingenius design that deserves the highest honor like any DD. Rick C-6.

Page 1 of 1DetroitDiesel : Message: Re: [Detroit Diesel] Re: cubic inch to cc, litres,, XXXX cc to...



ricks musings on the 451

Documents

exhaust ports open

uniflow dd

burned gases

power stroke

high revs

gasoline 2 stroke

ry ar

full revs