right on replicas, llc step-by-step review 20150506*right on replicas, llc step-by-step review...

Right On Replicas, LLC ©2015 All rights reserved. *All registered trademarks are the property of their respective brands. Follow the manufacturer’s safety recommendations for any product mentioned here.

Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20150506* Tommy Ivo’s Showboat with Figure 1:25 Scale Revell SSP Model Kit #85-1285 Review

“One is good, two is better, then Four Fire Breathin' Nailheads Oughta Be TERRIFIC!” Said Tommy Ivo back in 1961 when he built one of the wildest drag cars ever to hit the strip. FOUR 454 cubic inch motors IN ONE CAR! 32 cylinders, or 1,856 cubic inches, and with 2,000 horsepower this four wheel drive car ripped up the strip with 4 M&H 9.00X15.00 slicks, covering the quarter at over 170 mph in 9.14! Tommy Ivo is an actor and drag racer, who was active in the 1960s racing community. The 4-motor car, christened “Showboat” debuted on July 23, 1961 at the San Fernando drag strip in the San Fernando Valley. Although it wasn’t Ivo’s most winning creation, the four-engine “Showboat” is probably his most famous machine. The quad Buick Nailheads were linked in pairs, making them essentially V16s. One pair drove the rear wheels and the other, turned backward, powered the fronts. “It was such a heavy car,” Ivo says. “If you hit a bump, it hurt! It wasn’t like those light flexi dragsters.” Still, it put on quite a smoke show. At the time, it was reported to have cost $13,000 which was a lot of money back then.

For the modeler: This review covers the current Re-release (Re-Pop) of the TV Tommy’s Showboat from Revell, Kit #1285. This is a Skill Level 3, for advanced builders, 1/25 scale kit and is a Limited Production release under Revell’s Selected Subjects Program (SSP). The kit has 214 parts molded in White and Chrome with Vinyl tires and Metal axles. You get a fully painted Resin figure included with your build. The Instruction Sheet is in typical book format as with all Revell’s newer releases. A small decal sheet is


included. The motors are highly detailed and assemble in multiple stages; a majority of the build is for the motors. The frame is simple and straight forward. There is no interior being a drag car. The body is in multiple parts but easy to assemble. The tires represent a good replica of what was on the real car based on reference photos. Overall dimensions are: Length: 6-3/4", Width: 2-11/16", Height: 1-11/16".

BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure.

Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your imagination to create the car YOU want! Unless you are building a “Factory Stock” or a “Replica” car your choices of color and build options is completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no “Wrong way” to build your kit! Have fun and enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence. Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly.

PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as released in the SSP 2015 version. Unless otherwise stated I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer’s White Glue. Paints consist of Testors Enamel or Tamiya Acrylic bottle paints and “Rattle can” spray paints. The body is finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than an hour and clear cures in about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use simplified colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion.

Note to remember: Always follow the Manufacturer’s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the review for your own protection.


PIC 2 PIC 3 Here are the decals. You get the few sponsor decals and nothing else. These are typical of the high quality decals Revell has released lately and will float easily and adhere quickly. I use setting solutions to give me more time to place the decal on the body. Microscale Ind. has one of the best solutions on the market and is the most compatible with the different brands of decals I have used it on.

PIC 4 Start with the intakes. You will make four of them.


PIC 5 Paint the rail Red. Use superglue and attach the velocity stacks in place.

PIC 6 PIC 7 Build the base motor blocks. Assemble the block bottom, top halves and heads. Paint as a unit Red. The engine top is Steel. The oil filter is White with a Steel mount. Use very thinned Black paint to highlight the valve cover details almost like a rinse.


PIC 8 Assemble the motor’s top by sliding it between the heads and block. Attach the valley cover and add the intake built in step 1. Add the oil filter. Do this to ALL FOUR MOTORS.

PIC 9 The exhausts need assembly next.


PIC 10 Paint the flange Aluminum. There are two assembly fixtures used to make assembly of the pipes correct.

PIC 11 Using Fixture A assemble FOUR sets of exhaust. Insert the flange in place and Superglue the headers to the flange. This will be EXHAUST A in later assembly.

PIC 12 PIC 13 Using Fixture B assemble TWO sets of exhaust with all four headers UP. This will be EXHAUST C in later assembly. Assemble TWO sets with three headers UP and a short header DOWN as seen in the photos. This will be EXHAUST B in later assembly.


PIC 14 RIGHT FRONT motor assembly only: Paint the oil pan Red. Paint the rear gear Flat Black with a Steel gear. Paint the fuel pump and pump drive Steel and assemble. I will wire this motor so remove the magneto. Attach the oil pan in place. Attach the timing cover and rear gear in place. Attach the fuel pump. DO NOT attach the exhaust yet.

PIC 15 PIC 16 OPTIONAL: I wanted to do a little extra detail so I will wire the motors. Using a wiring diagram I will wire the motor. First drill out the hole for the shaft. Paint the shaft Steel. Drill out the locations on the heads. Make the distributor from pieces of brass rod for the distributor body and a piece of plastic rod for the shaft. Cut some small diameter wires about 3” long and glue them all together with superglue. Cut a small part of the Black wire for boots and slide it on each wire. Match the wires up to the diagram and cut to fit. Slide each wire into place with the boot at the hole to make it look correct. Superglue all the wires in place.


PIC 17 PIC 18 The wires are routed and made to look realistic. Attach EXHAUST A to the Right side.

PIC 19 PIC 20 RIGHT REAR motor assembly: Paint the oil pan Red. Paint the transmission lower plate Flat Black. Assemble the timing cover, oil pan, plate and transmission on to the motor. Wire the motor as before. Add the EXHAUST A in place.

PIC 21 PIC 22 Assemble the motors together using the pins on the rear gear from the front into the timing cover of the back and add the engine braces.


PIC 23 PIC 24 LEFT FRONT motor assembly: Paint the oil pan Red. The transmission plate is Flat Black. Install the pan, plate, transmission and timing cover as before. Wire the motor as before and add the EXHAUST C to the Left side.

PIC 25 PIC 26 LRFT REAR motor assembly: Paint the oil pan Red, The rear gear is Flat Black and Steel. The fuel pump and drive are assembled and painted Steel. Assemble the same as before. Wire and add EXHAUST C in place.

PIC 27 PIC 28 Assemble the motors as was done with the Right side.


PIC 29 PIC 30 Assemble the rear axle. The gear box is assembled and painted Flat Black. The axles and quick change plates are Steel. Attach the short side to the quick change, that to the gearbox. The long side attaches to the end plate and then the gearbox.

PIC 31 Assemble the frame. The rear brace and front brace are installed and the frame glued together.

PIC 32 Paint the unit Black with Steel couplers on the frame. Install the rear axle brake handle and shifter.


PIC 33 PIC 34 The body needs to be painted as a unit before the next step as the lower panel is needed. Note in the photo on the lower panel both sides have Copyright script that needs to be removed and the area smoothed.

PIC 35 Water sand the parts with 800 grit paper and prepare them for Primer. Prime the inner and outer areas. Wet sand the parts again with 800 grit paper to prepare for paint.

PIC 36 PIC 37 The inner areas are painted Flat Black and the outer areas are Red.


PIC 38 Body Decaling and Finishing: After you have your base coat on the car you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS surface and will not adhere properly on a FLAT surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to work with and plan out how the best way to lay them out without handling previously laid decals will be. I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the car in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again. Once you have a plan of action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it “Floats” loosely on the carrier paper. Microscale Industries has a product set called Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. The purpose is to soften the decals to help them conform to the contours of the body and lay smooth. To apply Micro Set, use a soft brush and apply Micro Set to the part where you are going to apply the decal. Next apply the decal as normal. Use a small pointed tip synthetic bristle brush and carefully position the decal. Blot the decal carefully with a Q-tip or paper towel so as not to move it and allow it to dry. For a tougher decals apply Micro-Sol with a small flat brush on to the decal. Apply with as few strokes as possible so as not to disturb the decal. As the decal dries slowly work any creases or blemishes in the decal out with a Q-tip or damp paper towel. Work slowly as not to damage the decal. A second coat of Micro-Sol can be added if needed. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car. Let the decals cure at least overnight before applying your clear coat.

PIC 39 The cockpit is started next. Paint the firewall and instrument panel Flat Black. The dials on the panel are highlighted Silver. The pedals are Aluminum.


PIC 40 Attach the gear cover in place. Add the pedals. Add the instrument panel. Install the body bottom pan. Install the firewall and steering rod.

PIC 41 PIC 42 Finish the cockpit. The chutes are assembled and painted Flat Black. The seat is Flat Black. The driveshaft is Steel. Install the chutes and use DECAL 6 on the top. Add the push bar on to the chute underside. Install the seat. Install the driveshaft. Add the body panels into place.

PIC 43 Assemble the front axle pieces.


PIC 44 The brakes, quick change and end plate are Steel. The gear box is assembled and painted Flat Black. Attach the endplate, short axle, retainer and brake in place. On the other side attach the quick change, long axle, retainer and brake. The steering assembly is assembled on the finished axle.

PIC 45 Attach the drive housing to the gear box. Add the steering gear. The tie rod is attached to the brakes and the drag link to the tie rod and drive housing. NOTE: the instructions show the tie rod on the OUTSIDE of the steering gear, it is attached INSIDE on the build.

PIC 46 The finished unit is installed on the chassis. DECAL 5 is installed on the long axle.


PIC 47 Install both the left and right motors in place. Attach the drive shafts to front and back.

PIC 48 There are no rear attachment points on the frame the motors just sit against the frame. DECAL 4 is installed on the left transmission.


PIC 49 PIC 50 Paint the rear brakes Steel. The wheel is Black with Aluminum spokes. Install the brakes on the rear axles and the wheel to the steering shaft.

PIC 51 PIC 52 Assemble the gas tank halves and install in place on the tank mount. Paint this as a unit Black. Add the cap and install in front of the Right motors attaching it to the frame.

PIC 53 PIC 54 Assemble the front tires. To create a worn look on the tread use 220 grit sandpaper and press the tread while rolling it on the paper. The tires have text on the front side only.

Attach the hub to the rim and insert the rim in the front of the tire, insert the rear ring in the back of the tire.


PIC 55 PIC 56 Assemble the rear tires. To create a worn look on the tread use 220 grit sandpaper and press the tread while rolling it on the paper. The tires have text on the front side only. Insert the rim in the front of the tire, insert the rear ring in the back of the tire.

PIC 57 PIC 58 Insert the SHORT metal axle in the rear axle and slide the tires in place. I added a dab of Superglue on the metal to hold the tire on. Use the LONG metal axle and repeat for the front tires.


PIC 59 PIC 60 Install the headers on the right (EXHAUST B) and left (EXHAUST A) outside the motors. This completes the build.

PIC 61 Here is a side view of the assembled car for ride height.

PIC 62 PIC 63 Here is a front and rear shot of the completed car.


PIC 64 You get a fully detailed TV Tommy Resin figure to display with your build.

OVERALL IMPRESSIONS: This one is not for the faint of heart. It is a Skill Level 3 and they mean it. Assembly can be touchy on the motors. The parts are small and attachment is not easy on the velocity stacks or the exhaust. During building I had to stop and repair parts that had fallen off from handling. The frame fit fairly well but my sample had a slight warp. I did get most of the twist out but it is still slight. Both the rear and front axles on the short side are installed with a slight angle. I tried to fix it but the parts seemed to not fit right. The body did fit tight but has a good look when assembled. Overall the car is a good looking build and with the wired motors looks very nice on the shelf. With time and patience you could get a Contest Winner from this kit. But that is the secret, WORK SLOWLY. I used Superglue for a majority of the assembly for both extra strength and due to the fact that Testors Glue will not bond to Chrome. I do like the finished build and this was something that will challenge you to a degree. On a scale of 1 to 10 I do rate this as an 8. It was a tough build at times and part locations can be vague in the instructions.

right on replicas, llc step-by-step review 20150506*right on replicas, llc step-by-step review...

Documents