r.l.w republic locomotive works slatyfork sawmill · dealing with model paints, and work in a...

1

R.L.W.

HistoryThe McCabe Lumber Co. Slatyfork Sawmill was built in1933 after the Coon Gap Sawmill burned to the ground.Slatyfork is a double bandsaw mill that can handle the loadand is the centerpiece of the McCabe Lumber Company.

Serial NumberSince this kit is a limited-edition, it has beenassigned a serial number.Please reference thisnumber when contacting us about this kit.

WarrantyAll R.L.W. products are guaranteed against defects inmanufacturing and will be replaced or repaired as determinedby R.L.W. after inspection of the part. Contact R.L.W. for areturn authorization prior to returning any damaged parts.R.L.W. will also replace parts that are damaged duringassembly. This part of the warranty is voided if the kit hasbeen modified in any way.

Drop OutsThe laser-cut sheets may look like pieces are missing, butthese holes are intentional. The opening for windows, doors,etc., are removed by the laser to make building this kit easier.These waste pieces, called drop outs, may still be clinging tothe sheet and fall out when touched. Save them for use asclutter and scraps when doing the final detailing.

Remove the pieces from the carrier sheets with a sharphobby knife as they are needed, and lightly sand off theremainder of the tabs. On the thicker pieces there is a slightdraft angle caused by the laser. This angle can be removedwith a pass or two of a fine sanding block.

Identify all the parts, checking them against the parts list.Most wood parts have a number either on them or nearby.Do not remove the parts from the carrier yet!

Repetitive StepsEvery different procedure or method is discussed in detail inthe instructions; however, once it has been discussed, it isnot repeated in detail again.

Dimensions and DirectionsAll dimensions specified in the text are actual feet and inchesunless used with the word “scale” before or after them.Specific parts are referenced by front, back, and sides. Thefront of the building has the jack slip.

Atmospheric ConditionsWood and paper products are effectively live materials onwhich humidity and temperature changes will change thesize of parts slightly. Our climate is moist so you may findminor changes in the proportion of the parts when moved toa dryer climate.

Republic Locomotive Works

Slatyfork SawmillA McCabe Lumber Company Kit

N Scale#28300

McCabe Lumber Company

2

End User Information

This kit is not intended for use by novice modelers, orindividuals under the age of 18 without the supervision ofan adult. Additionally, the modeler assumes all liabilityregarding the proper use of this product or any productsuggested. The user must become familiar with the kitinstructions, and instructions on any product used tocomplete this kit. Please read and follow all safetyprocedures for all products used to finish this kit. Detailsmay vary between scales and from the sample model shown.Color PalletThe basic colors are from the Floquil railroad colors lineexcept as noted. You may follow our suggested pallet:Paints:

Oxide Red Grimy Black EarthCaboose Red Antique White Old SilverConcrete Aged Concrete Reefer GrayLt Gray Rust Engine BlackRail Brown Reefer White MudRail Tie BrownWoodland Scenics' Mini-Scene Paint Set

Stains: Honey OakNaturally, you may use any colors you wish. Just

remember that flat, dull colors are preferable to loud brightcolors for a realistically-finished model. Some colorsapparent in the photos are mixtures of two or more of thebasic colors. These mixtures are used only on detail itemsand are not critical.

On the model, Oxide Red was drybrushed over a baseof Aged Concrete on the siding. Reefer White was used onthe window sashes. Interior flooring and frames were stainedwith Honey Oak. Foundation and jack slip parts were stainedwith thinned Rail Tie Brown. All parts should be paintedprior to assembly.

On all door and window frames, the same procedure isfollowed. After gluing the frames, headers, and sills in place,dress the inside edges with an emery board, then paint theinside edges of the opening to match the frames. This shouldbe done prior to the installation of the window sashes.

Please, wear rubber gloves and a paint mask whendealing with model paints, and work in a well-vented area.Some of the solvents are not user-friendly!Wood Grain and ColorWood grain is just one of several items that is well worththe time necessary to apply it and gives a proper look andfeel to a wood structure. It will look better if the wood graingoes on after the initial base color coat. The addition of

wood grain will also make the nail holes on a given wallless prominent. Please remember that wood grain shouldonly be applied to parts representing wood on the finishedmodel.

1. Use a sharp hobby knife to apply the wood grain.

2. Add two to three lines of wood grain per laser-cut boardor laser-scored board. Do this by beginning at the end of ascale board and working to the other end in one continuousline. Do not try to make these lines straight, but rather justtry to stay on that board. Slight waviness is exactly the resultyou will want.

3. Trim the ends of some boards shorter than others andcarve away some of the material between boards.

4. A base coloration of thinned light gray, such as AgedConcrete, is used for all of the wooden components in thiskit not specified to be a specific color. Some folks think itis necessary to sand the black edges off of all of the laser-cut parts. Not true. If you follow the suggested paintingtechniques, you will not have to spend time sanding all theedges of parts before assembly. Laser-cut edges can be base-colored with Antique White prior to applying a light color.This will easily hide any burned edges. Random additionsof stains such as Oak, Maple, Rosewood, Natural Pine, etc.,will add realistic variations to the coloration. Leaks andwet areas can be simulated by adding stains which are darkerthan the base color. A final wash of weathering stain willblend everything together.Weathering StainsThe gray weathering stain formula used is based onexperience with laser-cut components and castings. Too darka formula of weathering stain against a relatively-light finishcoat will tend to overemphasize laser-engraved nail holes.You may wish to try this weathering stain formula:

• Obtain a one ounce empty bottle. • Fill your bottle about 3/4 full with denatured alcohol. • Add about 30 drops of India ink and mix well.

This Alcohol & India Ink (A&I) stain will be usedthroughout the weathering of this kit. If it needs to be slightlydarkened, just add more ink. However, it is a good practiceto re-stain an object rather than use a stain which might betoo dark. This stain should be used on all of the castingsand buildings after painting them, and after final placementto mute the colors realistically. When first applied, it willlook terrible, but let it dry before passing final judgement.

3

R.L.W.The second stain is a reddish-brown mixture. Using the

same procedure listed above, simply substitute brown shoedye for the India ink to create an Alcohol & Dye (A&D)stain. It can be used on all castings also.

An alternate method for final weathering, rather thanusing the weathering stain, is to use powdered charcoalfound at an art supply store. One can will last a lifetime!You will also need a 1” wide soft brush. Never use thisbrush for anything other than charcoal work. And neverwash this brush! Use your brush to dust all exterior surfacesof the model. Brush and blow off excess charcoal. Practiceon scraps prior to dusting the model. The proper effect willdarken the model slightly and will darken the wood grainlines added to the model.CastingsThe castings in our kits are made most often of metal.However, they may also be injection-molded styrene or cold-cast urethane. These latter two types of parts must be washedwith warm soapy water instead of lacquer thinner. It is alsovery important to thoroughly rinse them after washing them.Urethane parts may be sanded and filed easily, but the dustshould not be inhaled! Paint all styrene parts with Barrierbefore painting them with other Floquil paints. Urethaneparts may be directly painted with Floquil paints. Severalalloys are used to produce metal parts for our kits. All themetal parts should be handled with care as denting andbreakage may occur if they are dropped.

WARNING: The metal castings in this kit may containvery minute levels of lead. Most of the castings in this kitare now 99.5% or more lead free. But to be on the safe side,keep all parts away from pets and small children, don’t lickyour fingers while building this kit, and always wash yourhands after handling the castings!.

Cleaning the metal castings is quite easy. Severaljewelers’ files and a sharp hobby knife work well for thisprocedure. After you have completed the initial cleanup ofparting lines, sprues and flash, wash all the castings inlacquer thinner, or denatured alcohol, and allow them todry. Handle these after washing by wearing gloves to avoidgetting them contaminated with the oils from your hands.

Sometimes the metal castings in the scene were treatedwith Blacken-It according to the product instructions. Thechemical reaction between the Blacken-It and the metalcreates a very realistic weathered-metal finish. Additionally,all metal castings can be treated in this manner to providegreater paint adhesion.

Painting the castings is quite easy and can beaccomplished with a brush or airbrush. A good base coatwill be created by airbrushing your castings with FloquilEarth or light gray paint. Krylon gray primer in a spray canworks well as an alternative to an airbrush. Choose relativelydull colors for your castings. Models tend to look morerealistic using shades such as Mud, Grimy Black, etc. byFloquil, or similar dull shades. Rarely should you considerusing bright colors in model scenes. The Woodland Scenicswater-base colors work well for this.Tools Required for AssemblyTools required for this kit: Hobby knife and sharp blades(we buy surgical blades from the pharmacy - very sharpand extremely thin), sanding block/emery boards, metalstraight edge/hobby scale, glues (ACC, Titebond woodcement, Elmers White Glue, JB Weld Epoxy), paints/stains,assorted twist drills and pin vise.SandingIt has been said that sanding is not necessary on a laser-cutkit. This is not true! Proper sanding makes the differencebetween a kit simply assembled and one that shows the touchof a true master craftsman. While the laser can cut precisely,the amount and types of glue used in assembly can alter thefit. Dressing the edges with a quick pass of the sandpaperwill greatly improve the appearance of the finished model.Always keep an assortment of sand papers and emery boardsin your tool box. Grits ranging from 200 to 600 will behelpful. Just about all exposed joints need to be dressedwith fine sandpaper like 600-grit. This will greatly improvethe appearance of the model.PhotosIn some of the assembly photos, the parts have not beenpainted. This was intentional to help show off the differentpieces easier. In some cases, the photos may show a modelthat looks slightly different from the final, improved version.This will not affect the assembly of the kit. And some photosmay show parts assembled slightly out of the recommendedorder.GluingTitebond, a brand name of strong wood glue, is used toassemble the large components in this kit. The residue fromthis glue will have a yellow tint, so be sure to clean up anyexcess. White glue is used to attach the smaller parts as thisglue will dry clear. When applying glue to the smaller parts,it is best to use a toothpick to apply a thin layer of glue tothe back of the parts and then press them in place on thestructure. Any excess glue can be wiped off with a dampcotton swab.


4

Foundation

Glue the long mill leg pieces (A.1, A.2) and the shortmill leg pieces (A.3, A.4) together as shown. With theassemblies lying flat on the workbench, use a straight

edge across the top to keep them straight, and glue thelong leg bracing (C.1) to each side of the long legassemblies (A.1, A.2). The brace should be at the top ofthe leg, but not extend higher into the horizontal beam.Paint or stain the legs a dark weathered gray or brown.

The mill is designed to sit upon a layer of ¾” foam boardthat slopes down into the millpond. While building themill, things will be made easier by having a piece of ¾”foam handy to hold up the back of the mill.

The main floor joists (B.1) are now glued to the legassemblies. The ‘front’ of the joist is the tall end wherethe part number is engraved. Glue the five long legassemblies into the front five notches on the bottom ofthe joists, and the six short leg assemblies into the back

notches. Keep these leg assemblies perpendicular untildry, and make sure the whole assembly is kept square.Paint the outsides of the two outer joists flat black.

Glue the short leg braces (C.2) diagonally to the sides ofthe long legs to form an 'X' as shown in the photos of thefinished model in the back of this instruction manual.

Wall Frames

Note that the side of the frame walls (B.6-B.12) withthe part number is the interior side. And be careful,these frames, while cut on thick wood, are somewhatfragile. Broken pieces should be glued back in placecarefully.

Assemble the right and left side frame walls by gluingthe sawfiler right wall frame (B.8) onto thenotch on top of the right wall frame (B.7),and the sawfiler left wall frame (B.11) ontothe notch on top of the left wall frame (B.10).Keep these lying flat on the bench under aweight until the glue is dry.

5

R.L.W.Glue the front (B.9) and back wall (B.6) frames to theassembled sides; keep the corners square. Glue the frontand back sawfiler wall frames (B.12) to its sides.

Glue the sawfiler floor supports (B.14) into the holes onthe inside of the side wall frames at the base of the sawfilerroom. Add the main floor supports (B.4, B.5) to the insideof the wall frames just above the rows of single windowson the sides.

Wall Sheathing

The wall sheathing is scribed on both sides so the boarddetail will be visible on the inside of the mill. It is best tostain the interior of the sheathing prior to gluing to theframe. The outside of the wall sheathing has the partnumber engraved on it.

The side sheathing (C.3, C.4) glues in place first. Use amedium brush to apply a thin coat of glue to the left sidewall frame (B.10). Work quickly so the glue will not dry.Place the sheathing (C.3) onto the frame and position itusing the windows as a reference. After this is dry, dothe same with the right wall sheathing (C.4). Make surethat any overhang at the front and back walls is sandedsmooth.

Glue the front wall sheathing (C.8) to the front frameworkand the back wall sheathing (C.9) to the back. Sand thecorners smooth after the glue dries.

The sawfiler front and back wall sheathings (C.7) arepositioned using the doorway as a reference. Glue themin place and sand the corners smooth.

Glue the corner trim to the mainwalls as follows. Start with the frontand back angled pieces (C.10) gluingthem to front and back walls flushwith the edges. After these are dry,glue the straight side trim (C.11) tothe sides overlapping the angled trim.The sawfiler’s room receives angledpieces (C.13) on the sides gluing them flush with theedges. After these are dry, glue the front and back sawfilertrim (C.12) to the front and back corners overlapping the

side trim. The side trim (C.14) is placed horizontal justunder the corner trim of the sawfiler’s room. When dry,sand the corners smooth and touch up the paint.

Main Floors

Glue the main floor (D.10) into the wall frame assemblyresting it on the main floor supports.

This completed assembly is now placed, not glued yet,onto the foundation. Mark on the bottom of the mainfloor the locations of the two notches in the tops of themain floor joists. These marks are the positions for the

long main floor braces (B.3) to be glued across the bottomof the floor for added support. The two short main floorbraces (B.2) are fit centered across the back extension ofthe main floor for added support. Remove the frameassembly from the foundation and glue these braces tothe bottom of the floor.

��


6

Glue the interior walls (D.11-15) into the slots of thelower level floor (D.8) with the scribed boards facingthe scribed flooring. This assembly is now glued to thebottom of the main floor at the rear of the mill. Beforethe glue sets, replace the frame assembly onto thefoundation and make sure the lower level floor is flushwith the edges of the door openings. The frame shouldnot be glued to the foundation until all the window sashesare installed.

There are two center posts (B.30) that support the frontand back walls of the sawfiler’s room. Glue these intothe holes in the main floor and under the centers of thefront and back sawfiler’s walls.

Sawfiler Floor

The long joists (D.19) have an extension on the bottomthat will fit between the two floor beams (B.13). Gluethe two outermost joists into the slots with the extensionholding the two beams in the right place; keep thisassembly square and until dry.

Using the sawfiler floor (D.16) as a guide, mark thelocations for the medium and short joists (D.17, D.18).

These shorter joists allow for the openings in the floorfor the stair and saw blade lift areas. Three medium joists(D.18) will be positioned opposite the saw lift openings,and one short joist (D.17) will be opposite the staircase

opening. Long joists (D.19) will glue into all the otherslots. Glue these joists into position, and add theremaining long joists. Glue the floor to the top of thejoists and place under a weight to dry. Test the fit intothe framework and sand the edges if necessary.

Add the handrails around the openings by gluing the posts(D.20) into the holes. Railing (L.14, L.15) are gluedaround three sides of each saw lift opening with a railingat the top and one glued to the side of the posts half waydown. Add the stairhole railings (L.16, L.17) around threesides of the stair opening the same way.

Assemble the long, sawfiler’s staircase by gluing thetreads (L.7) to the carriages (K.5). Note that there is a

7

R.L.W.difference between the top and bottom of the carriages;the top of the carriage has a small tab. Start by gluing atread to the bottom of the carriages and near the top; donot glue a tread to the uppermost position of the carriage.When these two are dry, add the remaining treads andthe top tread (L.6) to the top of the carriage. Sand thesides smooth and add two lower handrail posts (K.9) tothe bottom of the staircase with the flat edge of the postat the bottom and the sloped top parallel with the carriage.Four handrail posts (K.8) glue to the sides of the staircaseas shown in the photo.

Glue the assembled staircase into the bottom of theopening in the sawfiler’s floor. The top tread of thestaircase will be flush with the floor. Put the floorassembly into the building to make sure that the bottomof the staircase rests on the main floor. When this is dry,glue the two stair supports (D.34) to the sides of thestaircase and the bottom of the floor assembly. Glue thestair rails (L.12) to the inside of the handrail posts atthe top of the posts.

Roofs

The three main roofs are designed to be removablefor access to the interior. The scribing on all roof pieceswill face the interior of the mill.

Build the back main roof by gluing the long clerestoryrails (D.1) into the notches at the bases of the clerestorypart of five center trusses (B.16) and one clerestoryend truss (B.18) as shown. Build thefront main roof in the same mannerusing the short clerestory rails (D.2),two center trusses (B.16), and one endtruss (B.18). Set these assemblies onthe walls and keep them square whiledrying.

Glue the clerestory walls (D.3-D.6) tothe sides of the trusses and theclerestory rails. The ends with thepaired windows will be at the end withthe end truss (B.18).

The scribing on the roof pieces will be on the inside ofthe roof so keep this in mind while sanding the edges.The top edges of the adjoining roof pieces (B.20-B.29)need to be sanded to an approximate 150 angle so whenplaced on the trusses, they meet flush at the ridge. Alsosand the same angle at the top edges that will be next tothe clerestory walls.


8

Glue the main roof pieces (B.20, B.21, B.24, B.25) tothe trusses. Add the end main truss (B.17) by gluing itinto the slots on the outer ends of the front and back roofs.And glue the clerestory gable wall (D.7) to the ends ofthe clerestory.

Now is the time to add the clerestory window details.Glue the casings (I.3, I.4) around the window openings.The drip caps (I.7, I.8) glue as an overlay flush with thetop edge of the casings, and the sills (J.11, J.12) fit intothe bottom of the openings.

Add the clerestory sashes (H.4) after glazing. The wayto glaze them is much easier than trying to align a smallpiece of pre-cut styrene behind a small window sash.Simply remove the sash from the carrier sheet, peel offthe protective backing, and press firmly in place on thelarge, clear styrene sheet close to an edge. Trim the sashfrom the sheet by leaving a 1/32" or smaller border ofclear styrene around the edges of the sash. This borderwill form a tab to use for gluing the window in placefrom inside the building.

Glue the roof gangways (N.9, N.10), scored side down,to the bottom member of the trusses in line with thesawfiler’s doors. N.9 goes into the short front clerestory,and N.10 into the long rear clerestory.Glue the clerestoryroof pieces (B.22, B.23, B.26, B.27) to the trusses.

Assemble the sawfiler’s roof by gluing the roof pieces(B.28, B.29) to the seven trusses (B.19). Glue the roofstops (B.15) into the slots snug against the outer trusses.

Roofing is now installed. Trim the sheets of roofing paperinto scale 36-inch wide strips. Start at the lower edge ofthe roof and work with one piece at a time. Apply a thinlayer of glue to the roof, and press the paper in place.Proceed on to the next piece, overlapping the previousone by about six scale inches progressing to the top ofthe roof. Overlap the joints when starting with a newstrip. A ridge cap can be formed from a strip of roofingpaper folded lengthwise down the middle. Trim the excessfrom all edges of the roof.

Two smokejacks need to be mounted on the roofs, ifdesired. The cone-top smokejack is to vent the sawfiler’shearth. It can be located as shown in the photos. The flat-top smokejack is to vent the expended steam from thesteam engines in the lower level of the mill. It should beplaced against a side wall toward the rear of the mill. Inboth cases, drill holes where desired and glue thesmokejacks in place. JB Weld epoxy can be used as anadhesive, and any excess can be smeared around the baseof the smokejack to represent the roofing tar used to sealthe seams.

9

R.L.W.Window & Door Detail

Add the window and door details to the exterior walls.The single windows on the lower level and ends use thesingle casing, and all the other, paired windows use thedouble casings. Glue the casings (I.1, I.2) around thewindow openings. The drip caps (I.5, I.6) glue as anoverlay flush with the top edge of the casings, and thesills (J.9, J.10) fit into the bottom of the openings.

Glue the door casing (J.1) around the door scribed on thefront wall of the mill. As with the windows, the drip cap(J.3) glues as an overlay flush with the top edge of thecasing. The threshold (J.13) glues into the bottom of thedoor opening. The side and back doors receive casings(J.2), drip caps (J.3) and thresholds (J.6). The freight dooron the left side gets casing (J.4), drip cap (J.5), andthreshold (J.7).

Assemble the doors by peeling the backing paper fromthe frames and pressing them in place on the cores. Thefreight door uses core (J.8) which has a larger margin atthe top. Press the frames (H.1) onto each side of the corewith the top of the frames overlaying the large margin ofthe core. Sand the edges smooth, and glue into the openingin the wall from the inside in an open or closed position.Glue the freight door rail (D.21) to the inside of the wallresting on the top of the freight door.Glue the handle to the exterior side ofthe door.

The exterior doors are built using frames(H.2) and cores (I.9). Press one frame

onto the core with the bottom edges flush. Press a smallpiece of clear styrene across the top of the frame at thetransom sash. Finally, press the second frame onto theback of the door assembly and sand the edges smooth.Build two doors in this manner, and glue it into the dooropenings from the inside on the back and side of thesawmill. If open doors are desired, trim the transom offthe top of the door and glue into the top of the dooropening from the inside flat against the casing. Glue thedoor knob about 36 scale inches up from the bottom onthe outside of the door.

Sawfiler doors are built using frames (H.3) and cores(I.10) by pressing the frames onto each side of the coresand sanding the edges smooth. Glue these into theopenings in the sawfiler’s walls in an open or closedposition.

The window sashes are double-hung types and are treatedjust a bit differently than the clerestory windows as thereare two sashes per window opening. Simply remove alower sash (H.5) from the carrier sheet, peel off theprotective backing, and press firmly in place on the clearstyrene sheet close to an edge. Trim this sash from thestyrene sheet by leaving a 1/32" or smaller border of clearstyrene around the edges of the sash. Glue in place intothe window opening from the inside with the double panesat the bottom. Open windows can be created by cuttingoff part of the top of this sash, and gluing it into thewindow opening in a raised position.

The glass on the upper sashes (H.6) of double-hungwindows will need to be trimmed flush with the edges asthese are installed from the outside after the lower sash(H.5) is installed from the inside. Apply a small amountof glue around the side and upper edges and place intothe top of the window opening from the outside.

Jack Slip.

The bents for the jack slip are assembled from the bents(A.5-A.9) and caps (A.10). Glue the caps onto the topsof the bents and allow to dry. The bents are counted fromthe sawmill out to the end of the jack slip, so bent #5(A.9) is at the lower end of the jack slip, and three bent#1s (A.5) are closest to the mill.


10

Single, diagonal cross braces, one per side, are added tobent #5 (A.9) using braces (P.1) and bent #3 (A.7) usingbraces (P.3). Bent #4 (A.8) will use braces (P.2), one perside. Glue these braces to the bents diagonally as shownand where the braces cross the bent, drill a small holeand glue in place one of the plastic N-B-W casting.

The remaining bents #1 and #2 (A.5, A.6) receive ahorizontal bent joist (P.4) on each side approximately

half way up the bent. The bent braces (P.2) glue diagonallyabove and below these horizontal braces. N-B-W castingsare added as on the smaller bents.

The jack slip trough consists of two sets of beams, lowerand upper, (O.1-O.3) which are connected by the “V”shaped joists (O.4, O.5). The tops of the beams havenotches that indicate the placement of the joists. And thebottom of the joists have notches to help align the beams.Glue the lower joists (O.4) to the four lower beams (O.2,O.3) keeping the scribed lines on the beams to the outsidewhere they can be seen by gluing the joists to the twoouter beams, then when dry, add the center beams to eachside of the center notches on the joists. Keep this assemblysquare as the glue dries.

Note that on the upper beams (O.1) the eight joists thatare close together will be inside themill, are the last ones on the beams,and must be the upper joists (O.5); sixof these will be spaced to allow the loglifts to fall between them. Glue thejoists to the two outer beams, then whendry, add the center beams to each sideof the center notches on the joists.

Glue the bents to the notches on thebottom of the beams. Remember theorder with the lowest number bent, #1,being next to the sawmill; these three#1 bents will glue to the notches in thebottom of the upper beams. When theseare dry, glue the lower beam assembly

On its Side

11

R.L.W.

to the upper assembly where they meet on the outer bent.Add the remaining bents to the bottom of the lower beamassembly.

There is a walkway support (O.6) that will glue to thebottom of the joists at the lower end of the jack slip. Usethe lines of nail holes on the lowest walkways (E.14) toalign this support. Glue the walkway risers (E.16) to theouter back edges of the three lowest bents as shown inthe drawing. Sand the front edge of the bent cap (A.10)to allow the walkway to attach smoothly.

Now add the walkways (E.9-E.14) to the tops of the bentsworking from the top down. To do this, place, do notglue yet, the jack slip assembly into the front of the mill.The deep notch on the upper beams will fit over the lipof the wall. Glue the uppermost walkway (E.9) flushagainst the front of the mill. Sand a slight bevel to theends of the remaining walkways prior to gluing them inplace. This will result in a smoother joint betweensections. Glue the remaining walkways in place basedupon their number. The walkway cleats (P.6) are nowglued to the walkways spaced about two scale feet apart.

The trough is now installed. These trough pieces (E.1-E.8, E.15) glue to the inside angled sides of the joistsstarting with the top of the jack slip and working down.There will be gaps between the first three sections of

trough as this is where thelog lifts rest. Start at thetop, the flat end of the jackslip that will be inside themill, and glue the threetrough #8 (E.8) pieces tothe bottom and angledsides of the first andsecond joists. Glue thenext three trough pieces#7 (E.7) across the spacebetween the two, closely grouped sets of joists. Theseclosely grouped sets of joists provide the locations of thelog lifts.


12

Now glue trough #1 (E.1) pieces to the angled sides ofthe joists, and place the trough #9 (E.15) on the flat bottomof the joists as shown. After sanding the underside of theends as was done on the walkways to insure a good fitbetween segments, glue the remaining troughs #2-6 (E.2-E.6) to the joists.

The ‘metal’ center part of the lower trough is built upfrom three pieces. Glue the ‘U’ channel into the notch inthe middle of the joists after bending the upper end downto meet the floor. The two trough sides (M.1) glue oneach side of the channel. Trim off any excess at thebottom.

Add the dogs (M.2) to the trough spaced about scale 10’apart. Gently bend the dogs into a ‘U’ shape and glue tothe bottom of the channel with the 'U' facing up. Glue alength of chain into the trough at the top and drape itover the dogs. At the bottom of the channel, run the chainback under the channel and glue that end in place.

Four sway braces need to be added to each side of thebents as shown in the photos. These braces (P.2) are gluedto the sides of the bents. Now is the time to glue the jackslip to the mill making sure it is centered in the opening.

Add the log bumper by gluing the three lower log stops(A.11) to the floor ina single stack at themill end of the trough.The stop with twoholes (A.12) is gluedto the top of the stack,and two N-B-Wcastings glue into theholes. The two braces(A.13) glue behind thebumper inline with the N-B-W castings.

Assemble the jack slip shed by gluing the front wall (F.8)into the notches of the side walls (F.5, F.6). Glue thetrusses (F.7) to the top of the side walls with one at theback of the shed and the other centered. Glue the frontsheathing (C.6) to the front of the shed, and the sidesheathing (C.5) to each side. Sand the corners smooth.

Glue the casings (I.2) around the window openings. Thedrip caps (I.6) glue as an overlay flush with the top edgeof the casings, and the sills (J.10) fit into the bottom ofthe openings. As was done with the other window sashes,glaze the lower sashes (H.5), install them from the inside,and after glazing, add the upper sashes (H.6) from theoutside.

Glue the roof halves (E.21) to the shed with the scribedlines facing the inside of the shed and the back edgesflush with the back of the walls. Apply the roofing aswas done on the main roof. Glue the completed shed tothe front of the mill and the walkways on the jack slip.

Glue handrail posts (N.1) to the edge of the five lowerbents under the walkway as shown in the photos. Railingis to be cut to fit from the walkway handrail (P.5) andglued to the inside of the posts. The top, horizontalhandrail will extend to the sides of the jack slip shed.

Log Decks.

When the logs reach the top of the jack slip, they arelifted to the log decks and there they wait their turn onthe carriage. Two metal arms lift the logs out of thetrough, and a pair of movable stops prevents them fromrolling down onto the carriage until the sawyer desiresit.

13

R.L.W.

There are six frames for each log deck; one right frame(N.2), one left frame (N.3), and four inner frames (N.4).Line them up in this order, and glue the three left upperjoists (N.5) into the slots along the top of the frames, andthe three left lower joists (N.6) to the bottom of the framesto create the left frame.Do the same with the right logdeck components using one right frame (N.2), one leftframe (N.3), four inner frames (N.4), three right upperjoists (N.7), and three right lower joists (N.8)

Drill the base of the four log stop castings with a #56 bit.Glue a ¼” long piece of 0.046” wire into each hole andcenter the casting on the wire. On each log deck, glue thetwo log stop castings into the notches on the top of thefour center legs. These may be glued in a raised or loweredposition. The log decks (E.17, E.19) now glue to the topof the frame assemblies.

The four log lift casting bases are also drilled out with a#56 bit. Cut four lengths of 0.046” wire about 3/8” long.Position a log lift between each of the paired inner framesand insert the wire from the side of the frame through thelog lift to hold it in place.

Not Scale Size


14

The three log deck face pieces (E.18) glue to the top ofthe angled side of the left deck assembly, and log deckface pieces (E.20) glue to the top of the angled side ofthe right deck assembly. Sand the top edges smooth.

The completed log decks fit flush against the sides of thelog trough with the log lifts fitting into the slots of thetrough. Apply glue to the bottom joists and press intoplace.

Transfer Shed

Glue the five legs (F.1) into the slots of the roof joist(F.2). Glue a deck joist (D.31) centered over each leg.

Turn the assembly over, and add the ten beams (K.2) toeach side of the leg pieces. Their ends should be flush

with the sides of the legs and pressed tight against thebottom of the floor joists. Glue a leg brace (L.1) to eachside of the bent legs at an angle so that it forms an ‘X’.Glue sway braces (L.3) to the outer legs forming an ‘X’as shown in the photos.

The deck (G.1) should be distressed prior to assembly.Apply a light layer of glue to all floor joists, and drop thefloor into place.

Trim the two rails to a length of 6.5 inches. File the endssmooth. The rails should be inset about four scale inchesfrom the front end of the deck.

Small spikes are included to attach the rail. The rails canbe glued to the deck prior to spiking. Push a spike intoeach hole in the deck on the sides of the rail. Turn theassembly over and glue the spikes in place with ACC.

A bumper protects the front endof the track on the transfer shed.Glue the two angled braces (B.32)to one side of the bumper (B.31).Glue the bumper between the railsat the front end of the shed.

15

R.L.W.

Glue the transfer shed assembly to the side of the millkeeping the mill floor level with the deck. Using one ofthe rafters (K.1), locate the position on the mill wall forthe transfer shed beam (D.32). This beam will glue tothe wall with the notches facing up so that the notch inthe upper end of the rafter can glue into it and the bird’smouth, the notch near the lower end of the rafter, canrest on the roof joist over the outerlegs. Glue the beam in place on thewall, and glue the rafters (K.1) to itand the roof joist already in place.

Glue the transfer shed roof (K.10)to the rafters with the scribed linesfacing down. Apply the roofing aswas done on the main roof.

Loading Dock

If the Tramway & Storage Yard Kit, #28250, is to beused with the sawmill, and a connection with its loadingdock is desired, use the connecting dock assembly to jointhe two. Depending upon the configuration chosen, theconnecting dock might need to be shortened. It is best tolayout the tramway connection to the transfer shed first,

then work the other componentsaround it.

Build the loading dock bentassemblies by gluing the beams(K.3) to each side of four longloading dock legs (F.4). Thesebeams will be flush with the top,and flush with the sides of thebents.


16

Glue a leg brace (L.2) toeach side of the bent legsat an angle so that itforms an ‘X’.

Build the two connectingdock leg assemblies thesame way using beams(K.4) on each side of theshort dock leg (F.3). Gluethem in place centered onthe bent with the topedges flush. Add thebraces (L.4) to each sideof the bent assembly.

While the bentassemblies are drying,turn the decks (G.2, G.3) scribed side down and glue thejoists (G.6, G.7) to the bottoms. Note that there are smallscribe marks on the bottom of the joists that mark thelocations of the bents; glue the joists to the deck so thatthese marks are visible. The long deck (G.2) gets fourjoists (G.6) and the short deck (G.3) gets four joists (G.7).Two joists glue inset from the edges about one scale inch,and the other two will line up centered under the nailholes on both decks. Weight these down and let themdry.

When all the subassemblies are dry, turn the deckassemblies scribed side down. Small score marks are nowvisible on the joists; these mark the locations for the bents.Glue the long bent assemblies to the marked positionson the loading dock deck andthe two short bent assembliesto the connecting dock deck.Glue sway braces (L.3) to theouter legs of the loading dockforming an ‘X’ as shown in thephoto above.

Glue the loading dockassembly to the left side of themill as shown above.

Glue the three roof supports (D.29) into the slots of thedock roof (D.23). The roof joist (D.30) glues under theroof, snug against the ends of the supports. Cover theroof with tar paper as was done on the other roofs. Gluethis assembly to the loading dock side of the mill centeredover the doors as shown below.

External Walkway

A walkway runs from the door on the front of the millaround to the side. Note that on the walkways (K.11,K.12) there are scribed board separations. These are thelocations for the deck supports (D.24). Glue the decksupports to the foundation legs and the walkways to theposts as shown. The horizontal corner deck support (D.25)glues under the joint between the two walkways, and after

trimming the top to fit, theangled corner support (D.26)glues from the foundationleg up to the horizontalcorner deck support.

Glue the handrail posts (N.1)to the underside of thewalkways and the side of thedeck supports with three onthe short walkway and five

17

R.L.W.

on the long walkway. At the corner, glue a handrail post(N.1) under the walkway with the support arm parallelto the short walkway. Glue handrails (P.5) to the insideof the posts, trimming them to length as needed.

After the mill is installed, glue the walkway ramp (K.13)to the end of the long walkway angled down to the ground.

Rear Porch

The porch looks complex, but is easy to assemble. Gluethe deck (L.5) to the subdeck (G.8) with one of the longsides flush. This will allow an overhang on the other threesides. Turn this assembly over and glue the four legs (G.9)into the holes.

Glue three handrail posts (G.10) to the sides of the

subfloor as shown. Add the porch railing (P.5); this isone of the few pieces in the kit that will need to be cut tofit due to the possibility of different mounting places forthe posts.

Glue the completed porch against the back wall of thesawmill.

Internal Railing

Glue the handrail posts (D.22) to the main floor; thereare scribed squares on the floor edges to mark thelocations. Keep these posts perpendicular with the flooruntil dry. Main deck rails (L.8-L.11) glue to the inside ofthe posts, one at the top and one in the middle, as indicatedin the photo. Trim the ends as needed.

Stairs

Assemble the six staircases by gluing the treads (L.7) tothe carriages (K.6, K.7). Note that there is a differencebetween the top and bottom of the carriages; the top ofthe carriage has a small tab. Start by gluing a tread (L.7)to the bottom of the carriages and one near the top; donot glue a tread to the uppermost position of the carriage.When these two are dry, add the remaining treads (L.7)and the top tread (L.6) to the top of the carriage.

Sand the sides smooth. The external stairs have a singlehandrail on the right side of two stairs and one on the leftside. The internal stairs have a single handrail on the rightside of two stairs, and one stair has handrails on bothsides. With these requirements in mind, glue the lower


18

handrail post (K.9) to the bottom of the staircase withthe flat edge of the post at the bottom and the sloped topparallel to the carriage. Handrail posts (K.8) glue to thesides of the staircase at the top. Glue the stair rails (L.13)to the insides of the posts flush with the tops of the posts.

The three internal stairs glue to floor as shown in thephotos. The external stairs glue to the porch, loading dock,and transfer shed.

Lumber Cart

Assemble the lumber cart. The cart beams (D.28) glueperpendicular to the sides (D.27) and fit against the highmiddle sections. The holes for the axles should be at thebottom of the side. Usetwo small lengths of0.020" wire for theaxles. Clean up thewheel castings and gluein place on the axlesflush against the sides ofthe cart. The cart isdesigned to fit on therails.

Bandsaw Wheel Shipping Crate

The mill has just received a new wheel for the bandsaw.It is sitting on the loading dock waiting to be unpacked.

Paint the brass bandsaw wheel either green or gray. Gluethe two halves of the crate frame (D.33) together andslide the wheel into the opening. Note that the thicker

edge is the bottom of the crate. Glue the side frames (I.11)to the frame and add the angled brace (I.12), one to eachside diagonally across the side frame. Sand the edgessmooth.

Glue the assembled crate into the bases (G.4). The sidebraces (G.5) glue into the notches of the base and restagainst the side of the frame.

Glue the completed shipping crate to the loading dock.

Chairs

Glue the chair back (P.9) into the single slot at the backof the subseat (P.8). Glue the chair legs (P.7) into theparallel slots on the subseat with the angled legs pointingto the back. The seat (P.10) glues to the base. Stain withmaple stain or paint white. Place these anywhere a tiredsupervisor can easily find them!

Ladders

There are three ladders in this kit and all assemble thesame way. Glue the rungs (L.21) into the slots on therails (L.18-L.20) to form the ladders as follows. Glue arung into the end slots to tie the rails together. Allowthese to dry completely, and add the remaining rungs.When all are dry, sand the sides of the rails smooth andpaint.

19

R.L.W.The two short ladders (L.20) are for the roofs of thebuildings to allow access to the clerestory roofs. Gluethem to the roofs near the sawfiler’s room. The longladder with the extended rail is included to be used asclutter or additional detail; it is not used on the sawmill.

Lamp Shades

There are six plastic lamp shades in the kit. Use lengthsof 0.020" wire to form the brackets and glue a lamp shadeto the bracket. The cast plastic lamp bulb glues insidethe shade. Paint these gray with white on the inside ofthe reflector. The completed shade and bracket can beglued into a hole drilled into thebuilding. These are for adding light tothe areas around the doors andstaircases. A couple can be added alongthe walkway also.

Saw Blades

Included in the kit are several blades for detailing thesawfiler’s room or junk pile. Glue the ends of the bandsawblades (M.4) together to form a loop. The circular sawblades (M.3) can be used as is. Paint all the blades withOld Silver or Rust depending upon their intended use.

Sawmill Machinery

Since Keystone Locomotive Works already has somehighly detailed machinery available, there was no needfor duplication. The drawing shows the location of thenecessary machinery. Follow the instructions that comewith each kit, and glue them in place in the mill.

One note of interest is that the transfer tables will be atan angle with the upper legs on the raised floor and thelower legs on the lower floor.

Final Odds and Ends

The assorted drums, boxes, and various detail castingscan now be painted and added to the scene during theground cover stage which follows.

There are a couple of people figures in your kit. If youhave not already done so, you should paint and installthese figures now. It is natural for these workers to wear

��


20

dark blue trousers and light blue shirts, and tan and red isalso a good combination. Put a white shirt on the Boss,and finish these guys off with a wash of A&I; it will tonethem down, and highlight the details. Place them to suityour desires, or where we did on our model. Try to havethem in resting positions rather than action ones.

Add the pigeons. Ours are painted white, shades of gray,and brown, with darker heads. Be sure to add some birddroppings to your roofs with the end of a pin or fine tippedbrush dipped into White paint and applied as. . . well,you know what bird droppings look like! A little goes along way! An alternate method of applying bird droppingsis to obtain a white oil pastel stick. Use just the very fineedge of the stick, or a slightly sharpened edge of the stick,to add slight small streaks and dots. Practice this on apiece of paper prior to trying this on your roof. Use alight quick motion for best results. Once you master thistechnique, you will be able to add this detail in secondsto any given model.

Apply the signs wherever you desire. Trim each fromthe page and glue them in place with white glue. Eachone can be slightly weathered with a light sanding of600-grit sandpaper after the glue dries. Tone down all ofthe signs with a thinned A&I stain to age them a bit.

The Slatyfork decal can be applied over the door on theback of the mill. Trim it to the black outline, soak inwater for a minute, and when loose, slide onto the wall.Use any decal setting solution to get the decal to snuggledown over the boards.

Scenery

Scenery is one of the single most varied subjects thatone can discuss in model construction. Consider the factthat the world as a whole is comprised of many differentscenic forms. We are all aware of plains, mountains anddeserts. However, these large categories are not inclusiveof all possible categories, let alone, sub categories. Thenet result being that the world has an amazing array ofpossible scenic forms.

Modeling the scenic forms found in our world has aboutas many approaches as there are scenic forms to model.

This manual presents only a limited and brief account ofour preferred method of scenery construction. Many ofyou reading this may have another preferred method thatyou regularly use. If you do, then by all means proceedon your own. If you do not, then we suggest you give ourmethod a try. Those of you who are interested in a morecomplete explanation of this method of sceneryconstruction should consider purchasing a copy of Howto Build Realistic Model Railroad Scenery by Dave Frary;an excellent book by a fine gentleman. You will alsofind various water modeling techniques in this book.

No scenery material is included in this kit, but some isavailable to you at a very low cost. First, get some lighttan or brown dirt. Find a source (your yard, a creek bed,etc.) which you can return to and get more dirt as needed.You will find that for modeling purposes it is best tohave one basic dirt color throughout your layout. Do notchoose a dark or yellow color for your dirt. Yellow tendsto impart a dead look to a scene while dark dirt looks toodark under artificial lighting.

Remove the large rocks, twigs, etc., and place the dirtinto a metal baking dish and bake it for a hour or so at3000. This will help dry the dirt out, and kill any smallliving things that might be buried in there!

Sift your dirt through a layer of panty hose to produce apowder that is as fine as dust. Once sifted you can applyit to your diorama with a small disposable spoon by gentlytapping the side of the spoon. Under most instances youdo not want to apply a layer thicker than 0.20" to thesurface you are covering. This grade of dirt works bestfor roads and fairly level areas. The other areas on ourdiorama used basically non-sifted dirt.

Prior to the actual application of dirt it is best to lay downan undercoat of latex paint. A layer of latex house paintmakes a good undercoat. The paint should be applied insuch a manner as to coat the entire surface which will becovered with the dirt. This undercoat will serve as both aglue to stick the dirt to the diorama, and as a close matchto the color of the dirt just in case some of it is brokenloose.

21

R.L.W.The color of latex paint should be as close as possible tothe dirt color after the dirt is glued down with the waterand glue mixture described below.

Apply the non-sifted dirt to all areas except the dirt roads.Apply the sifted dirt to the dirt roads.

Wet slopes on the diorama slightly if the dirt does notstick to them. Additionally, wet all the dirt once it isapplied with wet water which is water with a couple ofdrops of dish soap added. Due to the nature of the diorama(a building which is glued in place), the use of aneyedropper to apply the water is highly recommendedover the spray bottle. Application of the wet water witha spray bottle is suggested by some, but it is hard to controland can lead to warping of wooden structures.

Once all the dirt is thoroughly soaked with water, youcan apply a mixture of 1/3 white glue or matte mediumto 2/3 water, with a drop or two of dish soap added, overall the dirt. You may find it easier to do this step now andadd plant life to the terrain later.

Now apply ground foam. Try to stay away from brightcolors that look artificial in a model scene even if theyare appropriate in real life. Dull greens, browns andyellows work the best. Start with the fine grades of foamand work up to the coarser grades of foam to give anindication of larger weed growth. Remember not to coverall parcels of terrain evenly with foam or colors of foam.Nature tends to be randomly arranged rather than orderlyarranged as we often arrange plants. Here is a methodusing ground foam from Woodland Scenics that workswell:

A) Apply a light dusting of fine Earth foam.

B) Add a moderate dusting of fine T49 mixed Green foam.

C) Apply a light, random dusting of Burnt Grass foam.

D) Apply a light, random dusting of Yellow Grass foam.

E) Apply, in random groups, a combination of coarseMedium Green, Burnt Green and Light Green foam.

F) Use the glue solution to bond it all together.

Taller weeds can be made from short pieces of ropeseparated into groups of fibers. Simply place a dab ofwhite glue where you want a weed, separate a group offibers, and snip off a short piece. Plant it in the glue. Fanthe weed out before it dries. Assuming your terrain isstill wet, the excess glue will soak into the terrain andthe weed will look as though it were growing out of thesoil when the terrain is dry.

Now add all the castings to your terrain. Some of thecastings may need to have parts cut or sanded away tomake them appear as though they are buried in the terrain.Other items are just pressed into the terrain. A drop ofwhite glue below each detail will secure it in place. Aftereverything is dry, any loose details can be gluedpermanently in place with 5-minute epoxy.

Pieces of scrap wood and paper can be added now. Besure to add a few scraps of paper to your road. Use anyleftovers from the kit as part of the scenery details. Junkpiles should include scrap wood, old bent pipes, etc. Blendit all together with a final application of A&I.

The job of final detailing will go on forever as youdiscover new items and new techniques. Enjoy this partof the hobby as it really makes everything come together.

Trivia about the Slatyfork Sawmill• By the time you finish this kit, you will have touched andassembled over 1,600 pieces, and have a great model!

• There are over four hours of laser time on a 1,000 ppi(points per inch) laser in each kit.

• Prior to doing the design work, we studied many loggingbooks and every magazine article we could find to betterunderstand the requirements on this kit. Much inspirationcame from photos of the Swayne mill in CA and the MeadowRiver mill in WV. While the kit is a work of fiction, it isbased upon fact.

All information in this instruction manual is the sole propertyof R.L.W.. and may not be reproduced in any manner without

written permission. Copyright 2003

R.L.W.16 Little Cape Horn * Cathlamet, WA. 98612

www.republiclocomotiveworks.com


22

23

R.L.W.

Description ( N Scale Version will be different) Qty20-Gal Drum, Concrete Block, Radiator 15-Gal Strewn Can 1Roof Vents, Tire, 30-Gal Drum, Warehouse Vent 1Junk Drum, Trash Can w/Trash, Wood Junk Drum 1Stacked Crates with Lantern and Bucket 155-Gal Drum and Box 1Wooden Crates 130-Gal Drums, 2 Barrels 12 Crates, 1 Barrel 1Barrel, 2 Crates, Pigeon 1Pallet Stack 2Crushed Drum 2Wood Crates 2-lg 3-sm 530-Gal Junk Drum 3Trash Can w/Trash 3Small Junk Pile 1Fire Hose Box 155-Gal Wood Junk Drum 2Quart Can 3Grinder 3Acetylene Tank 4Oxygen Tank 3Cone Top Smokejack 1Jug Pallet 1Cart Wheel 8Log Lift 4Log Stop 4Loggers Lube Can 3Wire Spool 3Broadax 1Large Wooden Barrel 3Small Wooden Barrel 3Sawmill Machinery 0Anvil 2

Fire Extinguisher 2Peavey 2Metal Bucket (one each style) 2Pickaroon 1

Paint Can 2Large Band Wheel 1Bandsaw Drive Wheel 3Pallet 755 Gal Dirt Drum 3

1Flat Top Smokejack 1Pipe Drum 25 Gallon Can 3Spitoon 2Junk Box 3Junk Drum 2

Door Handle Set 0Door Knob And Plate 0Pigeon 955-Gallon Drum 11Stumps, Small (one each style) 2Workers 3Tool set 1Chain 1Lamp Shades (contact www.ngineering.com) 0Spikes 20NBW 0Saw blades 1Rail, Code 40 2Wire, 0.012" x 6" 1Wire, 0.022" x 4" 1Channel, 0.080" x 5" 1Tar Paper, 1.5 x3 4Tar Paper, 5 x 3 3Clear Styrene 1Signs & Decal 2

Part Description Qty MaterialNumber

A.1 Mill Leg, Long Right 5 1/8 BassA.2 Mill Leg, Long Left 5 1/8 BassA.3 Mill Leg, Short Right 6 1/8 BassA.4 Mill Leg, Short Left 6 1/8 BassA.5 Jack Slip Bent, #1 3 1/8 BassA.6 Jack Slip Bent, #2 1 1/8 BassA.7 Jack Slip Bent, #3 1 1/8 BassA.8 Jack Slip Bent, #4 1 1/8 BassA.9 Jack Slip Bent, #5 1 1/8 BassA.10 Bent Cap 7 1/8 BassA.11 Log Stop, Lower 3 1/8 BassA.12 Log Stop, Upper 1 1/8 BassA.13 Log Stop Brace 2 1/8 Bass

B.1 Main Floor Joist 5 3/32 BassB.2 Main Floor Brace, Short 2 3/32 BassB.3 Main Floor Brace, Long 2 3/32 BassB.4 Main Floor Support, Front 1 3/32 BassB.5 Main Floor Support, Side 2 3/32 BassB.6 Frame, Back Wall 1 3/32 BassB.7 Frame, Right Wall 1 3/32 BassB.8 Frame, Sawfiler Right Wall 1 3/32 BassB.9 Frame, Front Wall 1 3/32 BassB.10 Frame, Left Wall 1 3/32 BassB.11 Frame, Sawfiler Left Wall 1 3/32 BassB.12 Frame, Sawfiler Front/Back 2 3/32 BassB.13 Sawfiler Floor Beam 2 3/32 BassB.14 Sawfiler Floor Support 2 3/32 BassB.15 Sawfiler Roof Stop 4 3/32 Bass

Slatyfork Sawmill Parts List


24

25

R.L.W.B.16 Main Truss, Clerestory Center 7 3/32 BassB.17 Main Truss, End 2 3/32 BassB.18 Main Truss, Clerestory End 2 3/32 BassB.19 Sawfiler Truss 7 3/32 BassB.20 Main Roof, Front Left 1 3/32 BassB.21 Main Roof, Front Right 1 3/32 BassB.22 Clerestory Roof, Front Left 1 3/32 BassB.23 Clerestory Roof, Front Right 1 3/32 BassB.24 Main Roof, Back Left 1 3/32 BassB.25 Main Roof, Back Right 1 3/32 BassB.26 Clerestory Roof, Back Left 1 3/32 BassB.27 Clerestory Roof, Back Right 1 3/32 BassB.28 Sawfiler Roof 1 3/32 BassB.29 Sawfiler Roof 1 3/32 BassB.30 Sawfiler Center Post 2 3/32 BassB.31 Bumper 1 3/32 BassB.32 Bumper Brace 2 3/32 BassB.33 Not Used 2 3/32 Bass

C.1 Long Leg Brace 10 1/64 PlyC.2 Short Leg Brace 16 1/64 PlyC.3 Sheathing, Left Wall 1 1/64 PlyC.4 Sheathing,Right Wall 1 1/64 PlyC.5 Sheathing, Jack Slip Shed Side 2 1/64 PlyC.6 Sheathing, Jack Slip Shed Front 1 1/64 PlyC.7 Sheathing, Sawfiler Front/Back 2 1/64 PlyC.8 Sheathing, Front Wall 1 1/64 PlyC.9 Sheathing, Back Wall 1 1/64 PlyC.10 Corner Trim, Angled, Front/Back 4 1/64 PlyC.11 Corner Trim, Side 4 1/64 PlyC.12 Corner Trim, Sawfiler, Front/Back 4 1/64 PlyC.13 Corner Trim, Angled, Sawfiler, Side 4 1/64 PlyC.14 Side Trim, Sawfiler 2 1/64 Ply

D.1 Clerestory Rail, Long 2 1/16 BassD.2 Clerestory Rail, Short 2 1/16 BassD.3 Clerestory Wall, Long Right 1 1/16 BassD.4 Clerestory Wall, Long Left 1 1/16 BassD.5 Clerestory Wall, Short Right 1 1/16 BassD.6 Clerestory Wall, Short Left 1 1/16 BassD.7 Clerestory Wall, Gable 2 1/16 BassD.8 Floor, Lower Level 1 1/16 BassD.9 Not Used 1/16 BassD.10 Main Floor 1 1/16 BassD.11 Interior Wall, Right Front 1 1/16 BassD.12 Interior Wall, Right Side 1 1/16 BassD.13 Interior Wall, Back 1 1/16 BassD.14 Interior Wall, Left Side 1 1/16 BassD.15 Interior Wall, Left Front 1 1/16 BassD.16 Floor, Sawfiler 1 1/16 BassD.17 Joist, Sawfiler, Short 1 1/16 BassD.18 Joist, Sawfiler, Medium 6 1/16 BassD.19 Joist, Sawfiler, Long 18 1/16 BassD.20 Handrail Post, Sawfiler Floor 12 1/16 Bass

D.21 Freight Door Rail 1 1/16 BassD.22 Handrail Post, Main Floor 20 1/16 BassD.23 Loading Dock Roof 1 1/16 BassD.24 Deck Support 8 1/16 BassD.25 Deck Support, Corner Horizontal 1 1/16 BassD.26 Deck Support, Corner Angled 1 1/16 BassD.27 Cart Side 2 1/16 BassD.28 Cart Beam 2 1/16 BassD.29 Loading Dock Roof Support 3 1/16 BassD.30 Loading Dock Roof Joist 1 1/16 BassD.31 Transfer Shed Deck Joist 4 1/16 BassD.32 Transfer Shed Beam 1 1/16 BassD.33 Wheel Crate Frame 2 1/16 BassD.34 Stair Support, Sawfiler 2 1/16 Bass

E.1 Trough, #1 2 1/32 BassE.2 Trough, #2 2 1/32 BassE.3 Trough, #3 2 1/32 BassE.4 Trough, #4 2 1/32 BassE.5 Trough, #5 2 1/32 BassE.6 Trough, #6 2 1/32 BassE.7 Trough, #7 3 1/32 BassE.8 Trough, #8 3 1/32 BassE.9 Walkway, #1 2 1/32 BassE.10 Walkway, #2 2 1/32 BassE.11 Walkway, #3 2 1/32 BassE.12 Walkway, #4 2 1/32 BassE.13 Walkway, #5 2 1/32 BassE.14 Walkway, #6 2 1/32 BassE.15 Trough, #9 1 1/32 BassE.16 Walkway Riser 6 1/32 BassE.17 Log Deck, Wide Spacing 1 1/32 BassE.18 Log Deck Face, Wide Spacing 3 1/32 BassE.19 Log Deck, Narrow Spacing 1 1/32 BassE.20 Log Deck Face, Narrow Spacing 3 1/32 BassE.21 Roof, Jack Slip Shed 2 1/32 Bass

F.1 Transfer Shed Leg 5 3/32 BassF.2 Transfer Shed Roof Joist 1 3/32 BassF.3 Loading Dock Leg, Short 2 3/32 BassF.4 Loading Dock Leg, Long 4 3/32 BassF.5 Jack Slip Shed Wall, Left 1 3/32 BassF.6 Jack Slip Shed Wall, Right 1 3/32 BassF.7 Jack Slip Shed Truss 2 3/32 BassF.8 Jack Slip Shed Wall, Front 1 3/32 Bass

G.1 Transfer Shed Deck 1 1/16 BassG.2 Loading Dock Deck 1 1/16 BassG.3 Connecting Dock Deck 1 1/16 BassG.4 Wheel Crate Base 2 1/16 BassG.5 Wheel Crate Side Brace 4 1/16 BassG.6 Loading Dock Joist 4 1/16 BassG.7 Connecting Dock Joist 4 1/16 BassG.8 Porch Subdeck 1 1/16 Bass


26

Above - Stairs and railing loca-tions at the back of the mill.

Right & Below - Sawfiler's roomdetails.

Window Casing Detail

27

R.L.W.G.9 Porch Leg 4 1/16 BassG.10 Porch Handrail Post 3 1/16 Bass

H.1 Freight Door Frame 2 1/64 PSH.2 Exterior Door Frame 4 1/64 PSH.3 Sawfiler Door Frame 4 1/64 PSH.4 Clerestory Window Sash 40 1/64 PSH.5 Lower Sash 80 1/64 PSH.6 Upper Sash 80 1/64 PS

I.1 Window Casing, Large, Double 20 1/64 PlyI.2 Window Casing, Large, Single 40 1/64 PlyI.3 Window Casing, Small, Double 4 1/64 PlyI.4 Window Casing, Small, Triple 10 1/64 PlyI.5 Drip Cap, Large, Double 20 1/64 PlyI.6 Drip Cap, Large, Single 40 1/64 PlyI.7 Drip Cap, Small, Double 4 1/64 PlyI.8 Drip Cap, Small, Triple 10 1/64 PlyI.9 Door Core, Exterior 2 1/64 PlyI.10 Door Core, Sawfiler 2 1/64 PlyI.11 Wheel Crate Side Frame 2 1/64 PlyI.12 Wheel Crate Angled Brace 2 1/64 Ply

J.1 Door Casing, Front Wall Door 1 1/64 PlyJ.2 Door Casing, Back/Side Walls 2 1/64 PlyJ.3 Drip Cap, Door 3 1/64 PlyJ.4 Door Casing, Freight Door 1 1/64 PlyJ.5 Drip Cap, Freight Door 1 1/64 PlyJ.6 Threshold 2 1/64 PlyJ.7 Threshold, Freight Door 1 1/64 PlyJ.8 Freight Door Core 1 1/64 PlyJ.9 Sill, Large Double Window 20 1/64 PlyJ.10 Sill, Large Single Window 40 1/64 PlyJ.11 Sill, Small Double Window 4 1/64 PlyJ.12 Sill, Small Triple Window 10 1/64 PlyJ.13 Threshold, Front Wall Door 1 1/64 Ply

K.1 Roof Rafters, Transfer Shed 26 1/32 BassK.2 Beam, Transfer Shed 10 1/32 BassK.3 Beam, Loading Dock 8 1/32 BassK.4 Beam, Connecting Dock 4 1/32 BassK.5 Stair Carriage, Sawfiler 2 1/32 BassK.6 Stair Carriage, External 6 1/32 BassK.7 Stair Carriage, Internal 6 1/32 BassK.8 Handrail Post 14 1/32 BassK.9 Handrail Post, Lower 12 1/32 BassK.10 Transfer Shed Roof 1 1/32 BassK.11 Walkway, Long 1 1/32 BassK.12 Walkway, Short 1 1/32 BassK.13 Walkway, Ramp 1 1/32 Bass

L.1 Leg Brace, Transfer Shed 10 1/64 PlyL.2 Leg Brace, Loading Dock 8 1/64 PlyL.3 Sway Brace 14 1/64 Ply

L.4 Leg Brace, Connecting Dock 4 1/64 PlyL.5 Porch Deck 1 1/64 PlyL.6 Top Stair Tread 8 1/64 PlyL.7 Stair Tread 72 1/64 PlyL.8 Main Deck Rail A 2 1/64 PlyL.9 Main Deck Rail B 2 1/64 PlyL.10 Main Deck Rail C 2 1/64 PlyL.11 Main Deck Rail D 2 1/64 PlyL.12 Stair Rail, Sawfiler 2 1/64 PlyL.13 Stair Rail 10 1/64 PlyL.14 Sawhole Handrail, Long 8 1/64 PlyL.15 Sawhole Handrail, Short 4 1/64 PlyL.16 Stairhole Handrail, Long 4 1/64 PlyL.17 Stairhole Handrail, Short 2 1/64 PlyL.18 Ladder Rail, Long Extended 1 1/64 PlyL.19 Ladder Rail, Long 1 1/64 PlyL.20 Ladder Rail 4 1/64 PlyL.21 Ladder Rung 15 1/64 Ply

M.1 Chain Trough Side 2 White CardM.2 Chain Dog 6 White CardM.3 Circular Saw Blade 5 White CardM.4 Bandsaw Blade 2 White Card

N.1 Handrail Post 20 1/16 BassN.2 Logdeck Outer Frame, Right 2 1/16 BassN.3 Logdeck Outer Frame, Left 2 1/16 BassN.4 Logdeck Inner Frame 8 1/16 BassN.5 Left Logdeck Upper Joist 3 1/16 BassN.6 Left Logdeck Lower Joist 3 1/16 BassN.7 Right Logdeck Upper Joist 3 1/16 BassN.8 Right Logdeck Lower Joist 3 1/16 BassN.9 Roof Gangway, Long 1 1/16 BassN.10 Roof Gangway, Short 1 1/16 Bass

O.1 Jack Slip Beam, Upper 4 3/32 BassO.2 Jack Slip Beam, Lower, Right 2 3/32 BassO.3 Jack Slip Beam, Lower, Left 2 3/32 BassO.4 Jack Slip Joist, Lower 14 3/32 BassO.5 Jack Slip Joist, Upper 8 3/32 BassO.6 Walkway Support 1 3/32 Bass

P.1 Bent Brace, #5 2 1/64 PlyP.2 Bent Brace 29 1/64 PlyP.3 Bent Brace, #3 2 1/64 PlyP.4 Bent Joist 8 1/64 PlyP.5 Walkway Handrail 16 1/64 PlyP.6 Walkway Cleat 50 1/64 PlyP.7 Chair Leg 4 1/64 PlyP.8 Chair Subseat 2 1/64 PlyP.9 Chair Back 2 1/64 PlyP.10 Chair Seat 2 1/64 Ply

1680 Total


28

Stairs and railing locationsat the back of the mill.

29

R.L.W.

Overall McCabe Lumber Co. ComplexApproximate size - 66" x 36"

A Slatyfork Sawmill 28300B Planing Shed 28225C Sawdust Shed 28220D Drying Kiln 28230E Tramway & Storage Yard 28250

Includes 8 Drying Racks & Can be enlarged with Tramway Extension #28255F Additional Drying Racks 28240G Boxcar Storage Shed 27507H Log Dump 28235I Pump House 28245J Bunk Cars, 7 Versions 28265 & 28270K Slash Burner 28305L Fire Hose Storage & Tank 28260M Company Office 28285N Power House 28295


30

N Scale Addendum

The N Scale version of this kit will be slightlydifferent than the HO version for which the instruc-tions are written. I have tried to make correctionswithin the written part of the instructions but youmay find places where the instructions say to use apiece of 0.046" wire. Since none is supplied and theparts list refers to 0.022 wire, that is what you aresupposed to use. The white metal parts will not beexactly the same as that listed in the HO list be-cause my castings are different. I do not intend tosupple NBW (nut, bolt and washer detail because Ido not believe that most people will choose tomodel this detail, due to so much other detailsupplied in the kit. I have not supplied lamp shadesfor the same reason. Please bear in mind that if thiskit was not designed for the larger scales, youwould never have this level of detail in N Scale.

Sawmill Machinery listed in the instructions refersto using Keystone machinery in HO Scale. Noneexists for N Scale. If I have enough requests I canmake up an add on kit that consists of white metalcastings from the Coon Gap Sawmill. This willinvolve a lot of work because SlatyFork is a muchlarger mill and therefore will require more machin-ery. I will have to make new masters, new moldsand write new instructions. I did not include themachinery because I wanted to keep the cost of themill down to an affordable level.

Our policy here at RLW is to provide you a qualityproduct at the most reasonable price. RLW willreplace any missing, defective or broken parts atno charge. In addition if you break, ruin or loose apart to the rug dragon, I will replace that at nocharge also.

If you have any questions or problems with this kit ,please contact RLW. Do not contact BTS, as weare solely responsible for the contents of this kit. Ifyou like this kit please contact Billy Wade owner ofBTS and Master Creations. Without his efforts andattention to detail, this beautiful structure and theother ones in the logging series would never happen. Contact Bill at: [email protected]

Marshall

r.l.w republic locomotive works slatyfork sawmill · dealing with model paints, and work in a...

Documents