roaches topo

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The Roaches

"I have generally found that things get better,

the further west one goes..."

Oscar Wilde.

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Ed Hill on the second pitch of Peter Harding's 1946 masterpiece, Valkyrie (page 59). With the hardest

climbing now behind him, the climber can enjoy the exposure of the final tower of the essential Roaches VS.

Photo: James Maddison.

Staffs Grit B1 lower tier A5.indd 32-33 16/09/2009 13:26:51


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A gothic cathedral o a crag; a place o pilgrimageor disciples o st-jamming and pebble-pulling, asite o ritual observance or devout boulderers. TheRoaches is steeped in a history that reaches rom thepioneers o gritstone climbing, through the Golden

Age o jamming, to state o the art testpieces. It hasenclosed misty cloisters and airy pinnacles and ter-riying gargoyles; the sketchiest o nail-biting slabs,the most carnivorous o cracks and the wildest oroos. This wealth o development and diversity ostyles has resulted in classic routes over the ullspectrum o grades. Here the most accessible andenjoyable o VDis may be ound within metres othe most uncompromising E8s. All this with water-colour pastoral views, and all within an hours driveo the Potteries and Manchester.

Access

The land is currently owned by the Peak DistrictNational Park Authority and there is generally openaccess to all climbing areas. However, access to areaso surrounding open moorland, especially to theeast o the Upper Tier, Skyline, and Five Clouds isdiscouraged apart rom using the obvious publicootpaths. These areas are some o the ew remain-ing quiet locations or wildlie, particularly

ground-nesting birds between March and July inany year. This is relevant or access to the Cube,which should be approached via ootpaths rom thesouth-east (i.e. rom the right-hand side o the UpperTier), and not directly rom the path to the Skyline.

The other rule relates to bouldering on the Hard VeryFar Skyline area. A local understanding has beenarrived at that there should be no bouldering on theriable buttresses above the main path rom RoachEnd. Occasional local bird restrictions may be in placeat Five Clouds, Nth Cloud, and the Upper Tier. Thesewill be clearly signposted on site as well as publishedin the BMC's. website (www.thebmc.co.uk) under theRegional Access Database which is amended immedi-ately changes take place. Peregrines have occupied aledge in the Humdinger area in recent years beoremoving on to Hen Cloud. Any necessary restrictionswill be placed on site and onto the BMC RAD site. I

you speak Peregrine then encourage the birds to con-tinue to use Hen Cloud as it is a lot less restrictive onclimbing and bouldering.

Parking & approachFor the main areas o the Roaches and Five Clouds,park in the lay-bys on the road below the crag.Parking outside the marked areas (including in ront

The Roaches Area Map

34 The Roaches

The Roaches

P

P

P

P

to Upper HulmeRoaches Tea Rooms

gate

toBackForest

Hen Cloud

TheFiveClou

ds

Nth Cloud

The Cube

TheS

ky

line

TheS

kylin

e

Upp

erTier

LowerT

ier

LowerT

ierN0 500m

The Roaches 35

LowerTier

The Cube

Rock Hall

The Clouds

Upper Tier

The Skyline

Piece of Mind Boulders

Upper Tier Boulders

Lower Tier Boulders

Spring Boulders



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o the cottage) will almost cer tainly result in a ne.The police do not tolerate any partial blocking othe highway and local residents are reporting con-traventions. Access is needed or locals andemergency vehicles at all times. Thet rom vehiclesat the Roaches and other isolated parking locationsis still a problem. Leave nothing on show. For TheVery Far and Hard Very Far Skyline areas a quickerapproach is to park at Roach End. Follow the lane

north under the Five Clouds through a gate (pleaseclose behind you), and over a cattle grid to parkingjust north o the grid and round the bend. Do notpark in the lanes leading west and north as this canimpede the armers vehicles and animal move-ments. A well-engineered path leads up the ridge tothe trig point (10 minutes). From here, the HardVery Far Skyline and bouldering areas are within 5minute's easy walk.

Staffordshire Grit

36 The Roaches

The Roaches 37

P

P

Great Slab Area

Rock Hall

Upper Tier

Hen Cloud

Five Clouds

Spring Boulders

Doug-less

Doug-less

The Cellar Area

Calcutta Buttress

Ou Est le Spit

Lower Tier Boulders

Lower Tier Boulders

LowerTierLeft

Lower

TierRight

Piece of Mind Boulders

Upper

TierLeft-H

and

UpperTierUpper Tier Boulders

Upper Tier Boulders

The Skyline

stepstoFiveClou

dsandUp

perTier

UpperHulme1.5km

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0 100m

The Roaches Tiers Map

Climbers lost among the boulder backwash of the final spillings of the Lower Tier as the mighty bastions of

Valkyrie Buttress and Kestrel Buttress diminish into the smaller slabbier buttresses beyond, and finally into the

gentle Piece of Mind Boulders. Climbers can be seen on Commander Energy, while two lost souls pray for

salvation. Photo: Jon Read.



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38 The Roaches

A: The Fly Boulder

1 The Fly V4 (6a)The overhanging prow on the arthest boulder.Starting low on the fake is V7 (6c).

2 The Lurch V5 (6b)Attain and ascend the hanging scoop right o theprow with all guns blazing.

B: The Ramp Boulder

3 The Ramp V1 (5c)

4 Ramphole of the Roaches V2 (6a)Move up and mantel rom the shallow hole.

5 Flakes V0 (5b)The faky arte.

6 Pod 'n' up V2 (5c)Move up rom the let end o the pod on the backo the boulder.

C: Shothole Boulder

7 Violence V2 (5c)Scurry up the beautiul scoop.

8 Impotence V2 (5c)The blunt nose direct.

Spring Boulders

The rst rock arrived at on the walk up is a collection o ne boulders on the let o the path. This is aairly good circuit with a good mix o slabby pebble-pulling testpieces as well as the usual Roaches brutality.It tends to be very boggy under lots o the problems, and extremely boggy under some, in which case youmay want to borrow a riends bouldering mat. The slabs on Boulder F are a great place to learn to smear,while alling o the owidth on Boulder C is a great place to learn to swim.

Rock HallLower Tier

Lower Tier Boulders

Wall

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2

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A

B

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G

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H

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9 Lout V1 (5b)Ledge to slopey topout.

10 Seconds Out V1 (5b)The owidth will suit those with a strong workethic. Climbing the let arte itsel is V2 (5c).

11 Skinned Rabbit V6 (6b)You will be. Move up rom the shotholes to arounded topout.

12 The Grind V4 (6b)I you enjoyed the Skinned Rabbit Hole, fake andtopout. A sit-start makes it V6, mainly because o theweight o your wet pants.

13 Arte on Left V6 (6b)

14 Arte on Right V5 (6b)

15 Mr Nice V4 (6b)Hurdle the dark sidewall to the right using a singlechipped oothold.

16 Mr Left V5 (6b)From the arte to the right, pull out let into thescoop and go up. A direct start to this looks impossi-

ble, but then again, they said that about time travel.

17 Arte on Left V3 (5c)The arte all the way.

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8

910

1112 13

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Roaches Lower Tier Spring Boulders

Sarah Warburton on Spring Slab, V7 (page 41). Photo: Adam Long.



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Staffordshire Grit

40 The Roaches The Roaches

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D: Little Summit

18 Summit Arte V0 (4b)The slabby arte o the small boulder.

19 Slab to Summit V0 (5a)The slab to the right to the highest point.

E: Bog Boulder

A good boulder although some o the problems onthe ront have a sponge actor.

20 Bog Arte Left V0 (4a)

21 Bog Arte Right V3 (6a)

22 Pebbles and Seam V2 (6a)Tinkle up the steep slab past a seam.

23 Bog Monster V2 (5c)Climb the top eatures to a eatureless top. Climberswho have allen into the incredible sponge belowthis route have reappeared in Peking. aC

24 BogStandard V1 (5c)Layback the shallow fake to a rounded top.aC

On the back o the boulder:

25 Bog Slab V0 (4c)Climb the slab to the nish o the next problem.

26 Poxy V0 (4a)

Follow the line o shallow pockles.aC

27 The Swinger V0 (5a)Use a rounded hold to gain the antastic porthole,then use this to swing let onto the slab.

28 Back Wall V1 (5b)Climb the short wall using undercuts and sidepulls.

29 Boo Meringue V1 (5b)A ramble. Step onto the arte o Problem 20 thenmake a smeary low-level traverse to the let arte.Swing up then hand traverse the top on deepholes to regain Problem 20. Move up or down

rom here.aC

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30 31 32

F: Spring BoulderA super-classic slab with some o the best smearingproblems at the Roaches. The landings are usuallyairly dry, unless you all into the spring, o course.

30 Spring Slab V7 (6b)The let side o the slab, on pocks n pebbles, hasbecome harder over the years: see photo on page 39. Avery thin time can be had traversing the invisibleseam rom let to right: Bobas Traverse V7 (6c).

31 C3PO V6 (6b)Climb the slab to the right on buttery smears.aC

32 Boba Fett V8 (6c)Climb the tallest part o the slab on nothings. Asmearing masterpiece. Avoiding the arte com-pletely earns you a V9 (7a) tick.

33 Bobarte V7 (6b)Skedaddle right to the arte and climb this.Worryingly placed above a watery hole.

On the back o the boulder is:

34 Sprung V3 (6a)From a sit start on the sidepull jug, move up and usethe seam and the groove to gain the summit.

35 Sprat V0+ (5a)From the same sit start, groove up and right to thetop o the boulder.aC

36 Sprite V0 (5a)The layback arte to the right, on its let.

G: Little Boulder

37 Spring Roll Left V2 (6a)A quick shimmy over the blunt nose just right.

38 Spring Roll V0 (5a)Climb the short arte on its right.

H: The Dougless BoulderA great big boulder just inside the walls o thecottage with a stul o burly highballs. Some o theproblems here may require brushing rst.

39 Particle Exchange V6 (E4 6b)From the crack, step let on a brushed oothold andgain the arte. This will eel a lot harder i it is at all

dirty, so it may be worth brushing rst.

40 Doug-less V4 (E3 6a)Climb the crack to the horizontal eature, andmantel it. Getting on or being a route.

41 The Rumour V7 (6c)A bit o a classic ollowing the wall to the right othe crack past the ripples.

42 Sketchy Rib V2 (5c)The slabby rib to the right.

43 Slabby Arte V0 (4b)

The more dened arte just right again.

On the opposite side o the boulder:

44 Scratchy Scoop V3 (E1 6a)The slabby scoop to the right o the chippysteps.aC

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Roaches Lower Tier Spring Boulders



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Crag_Name

The Roaches 4746 The Roaches

Fiercely classic climbing with topnotch routes o all grades. The crag is

made up o a run o smooth pebble-dashed slabs on the let side, and aseries o jutting prows on the main,right-hand side. The two are dividedby a set o steps running to the UpperTier.

Conditions & aspectThe Lower Tier tends to be airly shel-tered, not being as high up the ridge,and with many trees nearby to break thewind. This shelter also makes some othe aces slow to dry and sometimes

green, although, surprisingly, this greendoesnt always eect the climbing. Facessouth-west, getting sun rom aternoononwards.

ApproachA horrendous 5 minute march is need-ed rom the main car-park.

Teck Crack

DougLower Tier

Boulders

Lower Tier

Boulders

Rock Hall

Teck Crack

Doug

Rock Hall

Steps

Piece of Mind

Boulders

Piece of Mind

Prow Corner

Kestrel Crack

Swan Wall

Raven Rock

Bengal ButtressBengal Buttress

to Skylineand Cloudsto Skylineand Clouds

Spring

Boulders

N0 25m

The Lower Tierby Andi Turner

O.S. Ref. SK006622 Altitude: 400m a.s.l.

Climbers having a little damp green fun on Prow Cracks, HD (page 67). The right-hand end of the Lower Tier

has a good array of well-protected cracks and corners in the low grades and is an excellent venue to hone

leading skills. Photo: Niall Grimes.



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1 Snap, Crackle and Andy PoppE1 5c 1987

7m Climb the let-hand end o the wall, just to theright o the holly. Full leathers may be required toavoid being atally mauled!

2 Apache Dawn E5 6c 19938m From the middle o the pod, climb directly upon pebbles to a shallow divot and top out.Intimidating and intense: highball V7.

3 Catastrophe InternationaleE5 6b 1985

8m Pure pebble climbing at an uncomortableheight. From the pod, choose your pebbles. Theobjective is a rounded boss on the right, just belowthe top ollowed by an entertaining pull over ontrustworthy heather: highball V6.

4 Slippery Jim HVS 5a 1958

7m Climb the corner crack to its heathery conclu-sion. A Rock and Ice classic: see photo on page 50.

5 Bareback Rider E4 6b 19808m Ron Fawcetts avourite E3! Try to avoid beingthrown rom the technical and bouldery artebeore an awkward mantelshel gains the slopingrib. Continue airily up the slab: highball V4.

6 K.P. Nuts E6 7a 19898m A technical, nerve-racking and, so ar, unrepeat-ed Nadin testpiece. Climb the wall and make a

technical rockover to gain the slab above using thepeanut-shaped pebbles. Compose yoursel and foatup the slab above to join Ascent o Man at the nish.

7 Traverse of Man V2 (5c)Start in the cave below the next route and traverselet, into the corner, then all the way to the holly. Therst section alone, into the corner, is V0+ (5a).aC

8 Ascent of Man E3 6a 197410m Welcome to pebble pulling. Make a hard moveto reach a good break and then the ne fake above:a V2 in its own right aC. Place wobbly runners andmake a committing step let onto the pebbly ramp.Mantel onto the top as soon as you dare.

An independent right-hand start slapping up thetwin ribs (V4), combined with a direct nish usingthe (rom this side) even wobblier runners, is thevery worthwhileAscent of Woman(E4 6a, trad).

9 Days of Future Passed E3 6b 19749m The arte o the buttress has a powerul start (orjump) and a belly-fop nish with bafing roundedside-pulls in between.

10 The Aspirant E3 5c 19788m From the pedestal at the base o the let wall othe gully, make a surprisingly committing move tothe obvious hold and then exit careully onto therib above.

The Lower Tier The Left-Hand Section

The Left-Hand Section

The main path leads up through the larchestowards the steps to the Upper Tier. To the let,above the popular bouldering circuit, stands animpressive set o buttresses, sometimes slabby

above, but always ercely steep at their base. Hereis the highest concentration o hard routes to beound at the Roaches. This, combined with thepopularity o this area with boulderers, meansthat the lower sections o many o the routes hereare requently well-chalked: the upper sectionsless so! The climbing oers a satisying balance othe strenuous and the tenuous, with more than adash o the bold.About 20m beyond the let-hand end o the mainwall is a small buttress consisting o a jumble o

boulders, with a characteristic stunted tree growingat their base. This holds Beware Coconuts (VS 4b,1995), climbing the arte and squirming betweenbranches to reach the top. Just to the let o the edgeproper is a small cave with an obvious prow above,providing two short routes. Burrito Deluxe (E3 5c,

1979) is quite a serious little climb up the greenlet-hand wall o the prow rom a grassy ledge.National Hero (E2 5c, 1978) climbs out o the right-hand side o the cave and up the right-hand side othe prow. The let-hand end o the rst mainbuttress is marked by a vigorous holly tree, whichconceals a secret way to the top or the thick-skinned.

Above: Doug Moller, Lord and King of the Roaches

axeman, poet, royalty stands before his one-time

home, Rock Hall. Photo: John Beatty.

48 The Roaches The Roaches 49

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11 Ackit HVS 5b 195815m The hanging corner. A strenuous start and thensome tough laybacking lead to a welcome rest belowthe tricky nal bulge above, which oten ails to getthe det technique it deserves. A great leveller!

12 Just for Today E6 7a 19949m A desperate eliminate, starting as or Barriers thentaking the slab just to the let, with runners in Ackit.

13 Barriers in Time E6 6b 198316m The impressive stepped arte marked a majorbreakthrough or its time and is still an unorgettablelead today. Climb the scalloped wall to the secondbreak and protection. Proceed thoughtully to thetop via the rounded arte as the runners recedealarmingly. Traverse let into Ackit at the top.

14 Inertia ReelTraverse V12 (7a)Moatt's awesome traverse is as hard as they come,and sees ew repeats. Traverse the all-sloping shelrom let to right: see photo on page 45.

15 Ant Lives V6 (6b)A gruesome mantel o the lower shel to gain thesloping ledge above. Originally topped out on theright, adding a grade or two.

16 Sunday at Chapel E6 6c 19889m The lower arte o Barr iers in Time, climbed onits right-hand side starting rom Ant Lives, via acrazed series o slaps, using a side runner in Ackit.Once on the ledge simply escape down towards thebelay below the crack on Teck Crack.

The Lower Tier Teck Buttress

The Roaches 51

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Today's image of Don Whillans often involves a flat cap, a pint of beer and a fat belly. It's easy to forget

that he was one of the best climbers Britain ever produced. In this early image of a young Don on the first

ascent of Slippery Jim (page xxx), the athleticism, attitude and body magic that made him the climber he

was are only too obvious. Go on Don, 'av it! Photo: Nat Allen Collection.



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Staffordshire Grit

52 The Roaches The Roaches 53

25 The Boozy Traverse V8 (6b)From the holly, traverse let, nishing with a verypumpy sloping section.

26 Pindles Numb E4 6b 198411m Hand-traverse the handrail with increasingdiculty, until it is possible to pull desperately intothe groove above: highball V5.

27 Crystal Grazer E5 6a 198211m From the ramp, pull up let until standing onthe lip o the overhang. Foot traverse past a shallowgroove until it is possible to move up and gain theobvious hold directly above the holly. Unprotected.

28 A Fist Full of Crystals E6 6b 198312m Brilliant, balancy and bold climbing on smearsand pebbles. Start as or Crystal Grazer as ar as thegroove. Climb this and either step let onto anishing oothold or continue direct. Surmountingthe overhang to gain the groove directly is Heredity(E6 6c, 1989).

29 Doug E8 6c 198612m A historic route, the country's rst E8. Hard,blind and unprotected pebble-pulling up the shal-low scoop at the right-hand side o the slab. Start asor the two previous routes but then climb immedi-ately up the right-hand side o the ront ace o thebuttress to nish up the hanging scoop.

30 Freds Caf VS 5a 197812m A green climb up the rightward-slanting crackat the right side o the buttress, nishing letwardsup fakes.

17 Inertia Reel V7 (6c)A Dawes classic starting just let o the vague nose.Undercut, bridge, palm and dyno to gain the ledge.Desperate. The sit start, Turbo, is all too obvious andobviously all too hard: V10 (7a).

18 Teck Crack Direct V5 (6b)Quick moves across the sloping shel leads to des-perate lunges to better holds by the blind crack. Upthis to the terrace. aC Thud V8 (6c) is a unique lowstart. Pull on with hands in a low undercut and around dish (feet on back wall), then swing up andgain the shelf of the direct with your feet. Do all youcan to re-establish conventional mode and continue.Helmet advised.

19 Teck Crack Super-Direct V9 (6c)Levitate up the cruel seam. Six-footers only needapply!

20 The Dignity of Labour V6 (6b)Step off the boulder and traverse left until dynamicmoves up lead to an intimidating mantel using asquare pebble. An adventurous landing may meanthe original E3 is still deserved.

21 Teck Crack HVS 5b 195826m A antastic sandbag, with steep laybacking in

an impressive situation; a Lower Tier classic. Startrom the big ledge (best gained up the ramshacklegully below and right). Commit to the crack ullyand it will succumb. Finish up the continuationcrack to a historic bolt and seat belay.

22 Skydivin V5 (6b)Jump rom the boulder and gain the nose. Continueup this.A Modest Proposal V6 (6b), gains the samenish by slapping out rom the break below, via thelet-hand prow. The roo crack has been climbed atE3 6a (V5), reputedly by Joe Brown.

23 Lightning Crack HVS 5b, 4c 19581. 8m Ater a puzzling entry, layback the crack toreach a tree.

2. 12m Move up behind the tree and climb thetriangular wall behind. Climb up to the slopingledge and either nish direct or, better still, by aletward rising pod.

24 Mushin V10 (7a)Ben Moons brutal direct start to Pindles Numb.Start rom the break, move up to undercuts thenpower outwards on sloping dishes to a junctionwith Pindles. Most boulderers will jump o romhere.

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Neil Foster on the first ascent of Steps, E5 6b

(page 57). Photo: David Simmonite.

The Lower Tier stepsand the pathway along the ridge were

built in 1860, along what is possibly a

Roman causeway. On August 23rd, 1872,

the steps were used by the Duke and

Duchess of Teck and Prince Francis to

gain the upper tier for a picnic. A seat

was carved into the rock for the Duch-

ess, and railings put in place for safety.

The Lower Tier Crystal Grazer Area



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The Roaches 55

The Right-Hand Section

The frst route starts immediately right o the steps.

31 Yong Arte S 1957687m An interesting route climbing the blunt rib.Protection arrives too late or the leader, but may beappreciated by the second.

32 Poisonous Python E2 5b 19788m The innocent-looking curving cracks through

the overlap give some surprisingly dicult climbing.A good variation pulls out right to the arte, onceover the overlap, to nish up this.

33 Yong HVD 4a 1957689m The crack in the shallow corner is climbed onsuperb jams throughout, and is excellently protected.A perect route or beginners: see photo opposite.

34 Something Better Change E2 5b 19789m The chipped slab right o Yong is climbed direct.Good. A side-runner reduces the grade to HVS.

35 WisecrackVS 4c 1957688m The slanting crack in the let side o the buttress.

36 Hypothesis E1 5b 196810m The excellent cracked arte is technical,sustained and only just protectable.

37 Destination Earth E6 6b 198412m The centre o the ront ace is consistently hard,with a particularly testing crux at 7m.

38 Cannonball CrackS 4b pre-191311m Slither up the crack in the let ace, until a movelet onto a boulder allows the top to be gained.

39 Graffiti E1 5b 197815m Climb the arte until a move let gains a slimcorner, which is climbed to the crack above andthen to the top.

40 Dorothys Dilemma E1 5a 195118m Climb the exposed arte in its entirety by aseries o absorbing moves in a serious situation.

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The Lower Tier Yong Area

The Roaches at its summer best, with a gentle warming sun and a cooling breeze to keep the rock sweet and

the midges at bay. Tina Gardner satches it up on the crux section of Yong, HVD (opposite page) while Ana Jolly

belays. Photo: Niall Grimes.


Th L Ti R R k


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The Roaches 57

41 Bengal Buttress HVS 4c 19132430m An inspired production rom ancient times,being exposed, delicate and, even today, havingdisheartening protection. It takes a meandering, butlogical line up the ront o the buttress. Move up toa grassy ledge, then go r ight up to a break, runners.Move up to gain an airy position on the right o thearte where a trying move leads to the top o RavenRock Gully. Step let and go up the short crack.

42 Schoolies E4 5c 197822m A dangerous and articial line up the ront othe buttress. Reachy roo moves gain a ledge.Continue boldly up the slab until crux moves gaineasier-angled rock.Raven Rock

To the right, a ne tower stands proud rom thecrag. It gives magnicent routes o all grades andalthough the climbs tend to be steep, by deviousand inventive route-nding they usually manageto weave their wonderul ways upwards by guilerather than brute orce.

43 Steps E5 6b 200323m Starting 2m let o Crack o Gloom, pullstraight around the big roo, then climb to reach abreak. Step let and climb a short let-acing corner,

then traverse out along the lip o the big roo togain the fake, which is ollowed to a wide shel.Finish up the rib above: see photo on page 53.

44 Crack of Gloom E2 5b 195823m A superb, dark and shadowy climb, with acharacter all its own, taking the mighty gloomylooming crack in the let wall o the recess, exitinglet around the chockstone in a great position.

45 Raven Rock Gully Left-Hand VS 4b 196920m Ascend cracks and grooves in the let side othe gully, exiting through the skylight above. Good.

46 Raven Rock GullyD 190120m A lthy climb, popular with deviants or overa century. An absolute must! Follow the fakes in the

back o the gully until it is possible to squirmthrough the manhole above. The steep crack in thewall to the right is Swinger(VS 4c, pre-1973) which canbe used as a direct start to Via Dolorosa.

47 SidewinderE5 6a 198025m A wild route up the hanging arte above theoverhang. Possibly unrepeated. From the gully,hand-traverse right to climb the shallow groove inthe blunt arte. Climb the let-hand side o the hugeroo via the dubious protruding fake then make along reach to gain a vertical fake on the wall.

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Niall Grimes on the crux of Northern Comfort, E6 6c (page 59) on the first ascent. Photo: Richard Harland.

The Lower Tier Raven Rock


St ff d hi G it

Th L Ti R R k


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quite polished, the start o Pebbledash making or amuch more sustained and interesting beginning.2. 23m Climb up and over and down the huge fakeuntil an awkward move let (all very thrilling)brings generally easier climbing up the ront o thebuttress. Careul ropework advised, especially toprotect the second: see photo on page 32.

The next routes all start rom Valkyries Crevasse stance.

54 Northern Comfort E6 6c 199610m Technical and slappy climbing with a sae all-out zone. From the crest o the Valkyrie fake, climbdiagonally letwards to reach a rounded notch onthe arte (crux). Pull back right and ollow theeasier fake to the top.: see photo on page 56

55 Licence to Run E4 6a 198010m A ngery wall climb with some obscure moves.Protection is good but exhausting to place. From thestance, climb up and right to ollow a layback fakeuntil it is possible to break out right to another fake.Tricky moves up and right gain a nishing jug.

56 Licence to Lust E4 6a

198710m Climb the wall to the right o Licence to Runto its second smaller fake. Step let and ollow thethin crack-line to the top. A direct line linking thestart o Licence to Run to the nish o this route isLicense to Kill, E4 6b (2000).

57 Valkyrie CornerHS 4b traditional25m The major corner. Follow it all the way, orescape through the tunnel or, better, climb the fakeon the let to the top. The ramp trending up andright also mike a ne nish, easy but exposed.

Staffordshire Grit

48 Via Dolorosa VS 4c, 4a, 4c 19132433m A great historic climb, one o the very best oits grade in the area.1. 8m Ascend a narrow glassy slab (hard, andalmost becoming unpleasantly polished), thenmove up let through the holly to reach a ledge.2. 10m Traverse let to the rib and ollow a shortcrack, then a slab around to the let. Belay at a block .3. 15m Climb boldly up right to a fake. Surmount

this then move right round the arte and go up tothe top. Sit down and enjoy the view.

49Via Dolorosa VariationsHS 4a traditionalBy avoiding the polished corner (starting on thehigher ledge on the right), and nishing let intoRaven Rock Gully to avoid the last pitch, this superbclimb can be enjoyed at a much lower standard.

Cold Bone Forgotten (E3 6b, 1988) climbs the lowerroo let o Via Dolorosa with a runner in the tree.

50 Valkyrie Direct HVS 5b 195125m A superb climb in a supreme setting, taking asteep direct line through the parent route. A goodgritstone ght. Force a steep line straight up to thelet side o the Valkyrie fake. From here, step let,and nish up the obstinate crack to join Valkyrie.

51 The Gutter V7 (6b)Start in undercuts at the back o the cave and comeout to slap up the angular arte up and let.

52 Matinee HVS 5a,5b 195123m A magnicent, and very testing, exercise in jam-ming, this climb takes the huge, beautiully ugly crack,which splits the right-hand ace o Raven Rock.

1. 15m Climb the sometimes green crack on gloriousjams to a belay on the ne ledge (The Crevasse).2. 8m Continue up the widening crack to the nalbulge. Technicians will elegantly side-step this, butor mortals much humiliating foundering awaits.

53 Valkyrie VS 4b, 4c 194638m Simply one o the best routes on gritstone intricate, exposed and varied, and while it is onlyVS,it denitely climbs through HVS territory.1. 15m Follow the corner then traverse let to a nebelay on the Crevasse. A nondescript pitch, also

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Some years laterI went back to try to get some photos of the climband was fortunate to find two young lads on the route.

Meeting them at the top to congratulate them, I shyly

mentioned that I had done the first ascent. At this they

both went wide-eyed: the older one seized my hand,

shook it vigorously and said: You must be Joe Brown.

Then, looking at me askance, he added: But I al ways

thought you were short and stocky with teeth like

tombstones. Well, what else could I do but stay silent,

try to look smaller, and give the toothiest smile I

could muster? Valkyrie pioneer, Peter Harding

"At what is now the hard move Peter paused for several minutes because the

face was mossy and the finger holdswere choked

with soil and moss. He sh outed for Veronica to

pass him his penknife which was lowered down

on a rope. He scratched the moss away, closed

the knife, without more ado carried on to the

top."

Bowden Black on the first ascent o f Valkyrie

The Roaches 59

The Lower Tier Raven Rock

58 The Roaches


Staffordshire Grit


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Staffordshire Grit

60 The Roaches

The Swan Wall

The steep wall to the right eatures perect gritand a collection o routes generally marked byerce ngery cranking, usually with a bit oheart-futtering thrown in as well.

58 Eugenes Axe E2 5c 197920m Climb the arte to the cracks above (very highside-runner in Pebbledash at this grade). Use theseto gain a ramp, and nish up this.

59 Pebbledash HVS 5a, 4b 19691. 12m Climb the chimney and crack to a junctionwith the previous route. Scamper across the slab let-wards to the sanctuary o a belay ledge in the corner.2. 9mThe fake, corner or ramp above (or Valkyrie).

60 Secrets of Dance E4 6a 198420m Follow Pebbledash to the crack above. Fromhere, gain and ollow the nger-ramp above. Finishvia pockets and breaks. Not overly protected onceout o the crack, but the climbing does ease, a little.

61 Against the Grain E6 7a 198520m A stunning ngery sequence above a relativelysae allout zone. Easy ground leads to good cracks.From the cracks, step letwards and make a desperatesequence o increasingly dicult moves on tinyedges diagonally letwards to gain the sloping rampon Secrets o Dance. Finish up this.

62 Thing on a Spring E6 7a 198620m One o Simon Nadins most technical creationswith some o the hardest climbing in Staordshire.

From the cracks step right onto the ramp and oottraverse this to its end. Now compose yoursel, andpop or the sloping break above. From here, rompcondently to the top: see photo on page 29.

63 The Swan E3 5c 196924m Manageable climbing in outrageous positionsmakes this a memorable lead. From the cracks (highrunners), nger traverse out right. The ootholdsdiminish as the handholds get bigger, culminatingin a tough rockover to gain the rounded break.Follow the wide crack above to the top.

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In an era when we have gone to the moon, to the poles, the highest mountain tops and the bottom of the

ocean, it is still widely acknowledged that the lonliest place on earth is still right here in Staffordshire.

Mark Sharratt poised between his past and his future in the middle of the slab of Elegy, E2 5c (page 64).

Photo: David Simmonite. That's a brilliant photo, Dave.


The Lower Tier Smear Test


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64 Up The Swanee E4 5c 197122m As or The Swan, but using the handholds orootholds across the traverse. Delicate.

65 The MincerHVS 5b 195120m Steep jamming with a tough reputation.Climb the crack through the stepped overhangs. Theoverhang is the crux and will reduce all but themost adept to a failing display o appalling

technique. All that remains is the wide crack above.

66 Swan BankE4 5c 198120m From The Mincer, move let to a fake and thengo directly up to the wide crack above. Not well-pro-tected, and involving the hard move up on The Swan .

Smear Test Slab

Thin smearing test-pieces mark out the climbingon this beautiul hanging slab, although theroutes tend to be eliminates.

67 Smear Test E3 6a 197711m A good introduction to the harder slabs herea-bouts. From The Mincer, traverse horizontallyrightwards to nish up the bottomless crack. Anindependent start can be made up let rom the starto Pincer joining The Mincer at the overhang.

68 PincerVS 5a 19576820m A good bouldery start, but the top lacks direc-tion. Follow the groove (crux) into Guano Gully.Ascend this until it is possible to step back let ontothe slab to reach the bottomless crack.

69 Bloodstone E5 6b 1983

19m A good eliminate, with some exposed slabclimbing. Climb Pincer, or the bouldery bulge to theright, to the roo and good gear. Make a hard moveover the overlap, the kicking bird move, then blastdirectly up the slab. Runners are placed low in TheMincer, and in the upper crack. Kicking Bird (E4 6a 1978) is an earlier version that avoided the lowersection o slab by climbing The Mincer.

70 Bloodspeed E6 6b 198419m Probably the best line on this beautiul slab.From the ledge, smear up to the salvation o the

crack (to nd it isnt a crack). Climb this or the slabon its right. Very blank and insecure throughout.

71 Cold Blood E5 6b 200613m A recent route that lls a gap as good as any onthe slab. From the junction o Guano Gully and ThePincer, place gear in the good slot then rock up andlet onto the slab. Continue direct up the slab, ol-lowing a line to the right o the hanging crack.

72 Guano GullyHS 4b 1927

13m Start in the corner under the overhang. Followthis then undercut letwards to gain the main uppercorner. The direct start up the lower crack is VS 5a.

73 Mouseys Mistake E2 5b 197815m Climb Guano Gully, or its direct start, then passthe boulder / overhang on its right. Climb the letside o the slab above. Bold.

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The Roaches 63

The Lower Tier Smear Test

A climber on Fledgling's Climb, S 4a. This is one of the easier classics of the Lower Tier although, with its

bold and sloping lower section, one that's best enjoyed in nice dry conditions (page 64).

Photo: Niall Grimes.


Staffordshire Grit The Lower Tier Kestrel Buttress


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Elegy Slab

The hanging slab contains a gnarly classic andtwo contrasting desperates.

74 A Little PeculiarE7 7b 199316m Unique. Cross the roo and make once-in-a-lietime moves to get established on the slab above.Finish up Elegy.

75 ElegyE2 5c 196016m An absorbing route o the utmost quality, witha tough crux ollowed by a sizzling runout. Withhigh gear in The Bulger pull let around the bulge(technical crux). Follow the fake let to its end thenclimb the slab above on smears and slopers (psychocrux): see photo on page 61.

76 Clive Coolhead Realises the Excitement

of Knowing You May Be the Author ofYour Own Death is More Intense ThanOrgasm E5 6b 1983

16m Start as or Elegy, but once round the bulgeestablish yoursel over the fake (crux) and climbthe right o the slab above. Takes longer to memo-rise the name than to do the route! Gear is placed inThe Bulger and the Elegy fake.

77 The Bulger VS 4c 195116m The crack climbed throughout. More dicultthan would rst appear and strangely rewarding.

78 Dirty Wee Rouge E3 6a 200313m A narrow journey up the ront o the pillar,taking the overhang direct and avoiding The Bulger.

79 Fledglings Climb S 4a 192713m A bold and balancy route. Good ootwork isrequired to start the wall, which is ollowed rstlet, then back right, to nish up the arte above.Protection is awkward, and the route is precariouswhen damp, so fedglings beware: photo on page 62.

80 Wing Wing HS 4a traditional9m A bolder variation on the last climb ollows thegroove in the middle o the wall beore a couple opulls gain the diagonal fake. Rock right onto thetriangular ledge above to nish. Poorly protected.

81 Little ChimneyM 1949519m The little chimney can provide a quick waydown or the competent.

82 Battery Crack VS 4b 19687310m The wide crack just right, with a taxing exitout o the sentry box. Finish up the chimney.

83 Lucas Chimney S 4a 192711m A good traditional thrutch up the wide chimneyin the corner, swinging careully let to nish.

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Kestrel Buttress

The attractive slim buttress to the right, and justabove the roo o Rock Hall, with a powerulcrack-line cleaving its centre.

84 Hawkwing E1 5b 197821m This weaves up the ace giving reasonable, butsustained climbing, with protection that requiressome care. Follow a curving crack-line rightwardsonto the ront ace to join the wide crack (KestrelCrack). Climb this or 2m then traverse back let viathe parallel slanting cracks to nish up the let arte.

85 Carrion E3 5c

198019m Good climbing, and while it is low in thegrade technically, it has an exposed eel. Fun, pro-tectable moves lead over the lower roo to gain theledge on Hawkwing. Follow the centre o the aceabove via long stretches between nice roundedbreaks. A meaner variation is Poison Gift (E4 6a, 1980).This ollows Carrion to the ledge (where you mightwant to place a runner up and right). Gain the thinlower break, and crimp along this letwards until astretch gains the let arte (crux). Use this to getonto a good oothold, and a quick, easy nish.

86 Kestrel Crack HS 4b 19132420m A great rounded gritstone tester, varied andwell-positioned. Just right is an impressive groove.Climb this with sti gymnastic moves (or a wedgeand a squirm) to gain a ledge. (It is possible, butharder, to gain this coming in rom the r ight.) Thegrand upper crack is made harder or easier depend-ing on which way you ace.

87 Headless Horseman E1 5b 197820m From the chockstone o Kestrel Crack, moveout right to climb the striking arte on its let side.Poorly protected..

88 Logical Progression E7 6c

199818m An inventive solution to the challenge o thebig blank wall. Make a desperate letwards traverseo the lip to the obvious pockets (possible poorcam). Delicately rock up into these and nish moreeasily into Headless Horseman.

To the right o Logical Progression is a smooth wallwhich has so ar only been breached by a 7a toprope problem up the blunt nose and arte below thesmall triangular roo. Watch this space...

"Routes like Elegyare easier to solobecause you know where you stand.Although, there was that time in the seventiesPhil Burke tried to solo it midweek. He got onthe slab, got gripped, and just started screaming

his head off, but, of course, there was nobodyabout. But then Dougie appeared at the top andlooked over, and Burke was screaming, Throwme a rope, quick! Dougie disappeared,and when he came back, he tossed this loop ofblue nylon rope down at Burke which tumbleddown the slab and hit him but Dougie hadnttied it on to anything at the top, so the wholething just snaked past Burke and fell to t heground, and so he just had to set off andshake his way to the top."Ron Fawcett

The Lower Tier Kestrel Buttress

The Roaches 6564 The Roaches


The Lower Tier Prow AreaStaffordshire Grit


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98 Hunky DoryE3 6a 197510m A steep Roaches classic that requires a bit oeort. Climb the snaking crack until it is possible tobreak out right onto the resting ledge. Continue upthe bold wall to an easier-than-it-looks nish. It isalso possible to nish let at the top o the crack bymeans o a less bold 6a mantel. Fluorescent Stripper(E3 6a, 1985), continues articially up and rightwardsrom the resting ledge.

99 Prow CornerVD 19576812m The main corner is a good climb. Climb the tallcrack and nish up the spectacular fying crack.

100 Corner Cracks HVD 4a

traditional10m A good variation on the last climb is to stick tothe twin cracks on the right all the way, with a well-protected crux. All classic stu.

101 Chalkstorm E 3 5c 197710m A bold route requiring some concentration.Climb the centre o the slab on sloping holds androckovers. Traditionally climbed with a side-runner,which reduces the grade to between HVS and E2depending on how high you place it. The narrowslab just let has been climbed at 5c.

102 Prow Cracks HD 19576810m Ascend using both cracks and a variety o tech-nique. I you cant jam, youll need to bridge and iyou cant bridge, then learn to smear. A good rstlead. Either crack can be climbed independently atHVD. Both are good: see photo on page 47.

103 Voila 3 E4 6a 19898m An alarming route that gains the fying arte othe next route rom the let, with a mighty spanrom Prow Cracks. Continue laybacking on the letto glory.

104 Commander EnergyE2 5c 1975

12m A route o tremendous exposure up the outthere arte. Climb the rounded right arte o theslab to the triangular roo. Pull over this on a goodfake (spike runner) and layback dramatically up thefying arte above.

105 Sumo Cellulite E4 6a 198912m For the same exposure, only without the holds,climb the upper slab to the right o CommanderEnergys fying arte. From below the roo, teeterright up the curving crack, beore a precarious stepup gains a thin hold, then continue direct.

89 Flimney S 4a 19576818m Although somewhat overgrown, the jungle bash-ing proves to be great un. Climb a large fake let othe bushes and nish up the crack and corner behind.

90 The Death Knell E4 5c 197010m A bold route that deserves more attention.Climb the short arte until a good hold can beattained in the crack. Using this, get established onthe upper wall (crux), then continue more easilyusing either the crack or the arte. The original ver-sion stepped let above the crux into cracks nowchoked with vegetation.

91 Rhodren HVS 5b

195811m A great climb taking the stepped corner, withconstricted undercutting making it a good warm-up or The Mincer.

To the right is a allen fake orming an interesting arch,which marks the starts o the next two routes.

92 Flake Chimney D 19495114m A great adventurous little route. Take the edgeo the allen fake, then walk the plank into thecorner on the right. The chimney leads to the top.

93 Straight Crack HS 4a 19576810m Bridge against the fake to start, then climb thecrack just right o Rhodren.

94 Punch E3 6b 19576814m At the let end o the overhang to the right,behind an ominous rhododendron is a short hang-ing groove, which is, unortunately, oten verygreen. Pull into this (crux) and climb the cracksabove. Only or the gritstone thug.

95 Choka E1 5c 195812m The large roo 3m right o Punch is overcomeby gymnastic nger-jamming. Only the small detail

o the owidth above remains.

96 Stolen Days E2 5c 199610m Start on the bottom slab o Circuit Breaker. Steplet onto the slab and climb it, trending letwards tothe top.

97 Circuit Breaker E3 6a 198010m From the crack, move immediately let to thearte and pull over the bulge. Place protection thenclimb the fake in the arte above to a pull over ontothe slab.

The Lower Tier Prow AreaStaffordshire Grit

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The Lower Tier Girdle TraversesStaffordshire Grit


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106 Rocking Stone GullyVD traditional8m The chunky corner to the right lives up to itsname. Elegant semi-layback moves avoid the hal-way grovel.

107 Captain LethargyVD traditional8m Climb the well-ormed crack right o the cor-ner. Finish on the let.

108 Siftas Quid HS 4c 19689m An entertaining climb, with an entertaininghistory. Climb to the ledge. Now either climb outover the bulge, or or much more un, squeezethrough the tunnel by the huge boulder under

the roo. The scene o much amusing thrutching,most o it on the spot. A classic Roaches rite opassage.aC The roo just to the let is breached byDougie Returns Home (E1 5b, 1992).

109 Obsession Fatale E7 6b 199211m The unprotected centre o the slab is climbeddirect to its utterly blank and unorgiving crux atthe very top. Regularly abseiled, requently top-roped and sometimes headpointed: howeveron-sight attempts have ended in North StaordshireA&E on more than one occasion.

110 Piece of Mind E6 6b 197711m The blunt central arte is a very serious propo-sition demanding the cleanest o technique and thecoolest o heads. Balance up via scoops until a pre-carious step right can be made onto a aith inriction oothold and so the top. One o the rstroutes o its type on gritstone, well ahead o itstime. A direct nish has also been climbed at asimilar grade, The Emergency Exit.

111 Final Destination E8 6c 20039m The steep slab, starting as or the next route andnishing just right o Piece o Mind. Like all theroutes on this slab, it is utterly serious.

112 The Thin AirE5 6a 19809m Quality climbing on the right-hand side o theslab, above a serious landing. Starting in a scoop onthe let, climb rightwards to a distinctive ripplewhence an airy rockover gains the rounded andeasily-fuable top.

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Lower Tier Girdle Traverses

The Golden Age o Girdle Traversing appears tohave passed. In case it again becomes ashionable,the descriptions o three o the genre are includ-ed in all their original splendour.

113 The Girdle Traverse HVS 5a 196080m A wandering line but pleasant nonetheless.

From almost the top o Bengal Buttress, traverse thechockstone and continue to join Valkyrie at the lip.Reverse this to the stance in the crevasse, then moveright to the corner. Go up a short way, and move rightacross the great wall via high-level breaks. Descendinto The Mincer and continue by a line almost at thetop o the crag into The Bulger to nish.

114 The Underpass E1 5b 196850m A variant on the Girdle Traverse. From the endo the traverse on Bengal Buttress, reverse the cruxo Crack o Gloom into the gully and pass right-wards beneath the chockstone into Raven RockGully. Continue the traverse round under the great

overhang to meet Valkyrie Direct. Awkward movesgain Matinee which is ollowed almost to the top.Take the right-hand branch o the crack to nish.

115 The Super Girdle E4 5c, 6a, 5c 198045m Perhaps a hybrid, but still marvellous horizon-tal movement on the best o gritstone slabs.1. 22m Follow The Swan, but continue at the samelevel to join The Mincer.2. 11m Traverse Smear Test, place gear, then continueslightly downwards into Guano Gully by sustainedtiptoeing.3. 12m Move out again onto the Elegy slab, and

traverse boldly across the slab horizontally to meetand nish up The Bulger. It is advised to step downand arrange protection in the fake o Elegy at hal-way.

"Staffordshirewas always avery important area forme.I wasnt putting up the hardest routes there,

but while I was doing my own first ascents

around Sheffield, I would regularly go over

to test myself against other peoples routes,

kind of like a gauge if you like, by which to

measure myself, my own performance, my own

routes. I remember one day doing Bloodspeed,

Script for a Tear, A Fist Full of Crystals, Barriers,

all E6s, all on-sight, then trying to finish off with

Piece of Mind. I slipped off the last move and

bounced all the way down the slab, then ran

through the boulders, until my shoe lace caught

on a tree root and stopped me. The laceprobably saved my life."

Johnny Dawes

68 The Roaches


The Lower Tier Piece of Mind Bouldering


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Piece of Mind Bouldering

A very quiet circuit with masses o problems. They mostly tend to be short and, while there is good variety,many tend to be o the rollover type, although theres a good selection o slabs and artes as well as a ewoddments. It gets the sun rom rst thing to last. Generally clean, but with the lack o trac some o thesuraces can be a bit biscuity. The rst problem is on a boulder down near the wall surrounding Rock Hall.

1 Cottage ArteV2 (5c)

The square arte o theboulder just outside thewall, on its right-handside. A nice V1 (5b) onits let.

2 Open Bum CleftV3 (6a)

The swooping groove ona boulder to the right,acing Hen Cloud, willeel harder or the short.aC

On a slab, 10m right:

3 Sail Slab V0 (4a)The gentle let edge othe slab.

4 Mantel andPocket V0 (4b)

Udge over the bulgeand ollow the slab 2mlet o the arte.aC

5 Sail ArteV0 (5a)

Start on the right anduse a round hold toswing let onto theslab.

6 Sail Rib V0 (5a)Pad up the vaguearte.aC

7 Tittersworth RibV2 (5c)

The tall arte behind theslab, climbed on eitherside. Done rom a sitteron the right is V4 (6b).

8 Chips AhoyV1 (5b)Sail directly up the slab

rom the rst chip to ascary rounded top.aC

9 Ramp V0 (5a)The wall acing HenCloud.

10 Potty V0 (4c)Pull into the scoop.

11 CroissantGroove V2 (5c)

The groove on the lowboulder acing Hen

Cloud.

Way back again towardsPiece o Mind is:

12 The Jams V2 (5c)The highball, let-handcrack line.

13 The Teacup V1(5b)

The hanging slab onround fakes.aC

14 Twisted CrackV4 (6b)

The wide crack can beclimbed on its let orright sides, or directlyby deviants.

15 Off Work V2 (5c)Surrender to theowidth you swine!aC

16 Flake and ArteV2 (5c)

The nice arte with areachy top.

17 Wildys ArteV2 (6a)

The arte on its let. Thesit-start is V5 (6b).

18 Wildys RightV3 (6a)

A ne problem ollow-ing the arte on itsright.aC

19 Slab and CrackV0 (4c)

The slab and crackedbulge above. Finishinglet, using the crack torock onto the slab, is agood V1 (5b).aC

20 Jobby V0 (4b)The easy arte on theright side o the boulder.

21 Micky V0 (4a)The thin crack on theback o the boulder.

In the chasm behind is:

22 Scab V2 (5c)

Climb the eisty crackin the chasm betweenthe boulders rom a sit-ting start.

23 Buster V4 (6b)From the jams at thebottom o Scab, reach upand right to a blind fake.Move up and continuealong the lip to make arollover at the end.

The next problems are basedaround the collection oboulders up and behindPiece o Mind. that orm asmall square 'room'. Theyare sometimes a wee bithigh. The rst o these takes

a very exposed ramplinethat leads letwards aroundthe letmost boulder.

24 Dropsy V1 (5a)Smear letwards up therounded groove in anexposed position.

25 The Blob V1 (5b)Up the arte o theboulder to the blob.

26 Crinkles WallV5 (6b)

The very thin wall inthe boulder room.

27 Rock Room SlabV1 (5b)

A quaint little slab onthe opposite side o theroom.

28 Annies EggV5 (E4 6a)

On the back o theboulder, jump acrossthe gap to gain andclimb the hangingscoop, and dont allo.

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