rock climbing

RockClimbing

PhilWatts,PhD

NorthernMichiganUniversity

Pageii

LibraryofCongressCataloginginPublicationDataWatts,PhillipBaxter,1951Rockclimbing/PhilWatts.p.cm.(Outdoorpursuitsseries)Includesindex.ISBN08732281461.Rockclimbing.I.Title.II.Series.GV200.2.W381996796.5'223dc209538817CIP

ISBN:0873228146

Copyright1996byHumanKineticsPublishers,Inc.

Allrightsreserved.Exceptforuseinareview,thereproductionorutilizationofthisworkinanyformorbyanyelectronic,mechanical,orothermeans,nowknownorhereafterinvented,includingxerography,photocopying,andrecording,andinanyinformationstorageandretrievalsystem,isforbiddenwithoutthewrittenpermissionofthepublisher.

Animportantnotetoreaders:Thisisaninstructionalbookaboutrockclimbing,asportthatispotentiallydangerous.Becauseoftherisksinvolvedinrockclimbing,theauthorandpublisherstronglyrecommendthattheinformationprovidedinthisbookbeusedonlytosupplementqualifiedpersonalinstructionfromaclimbingexpertorguide.

DevelopmentalEditor:JulieRhodaAssistantEditors:SusanMoore,KirbyMittelmeier,AnnGreenseth,JohnWentworth,SandraMerzBottEditorialAssistant:JenniferHemphillCopyeditor:MichaelRyderProofreader:JimBurnsIndexer:BarbaraE.CohenTypesetters:StuartCartwrightandRubyZimmermanTextDesigner:KeithBlombergLayoutArtist:StuartCartwrightPhotoEditor:BoydLaFoonPhotographer(interior):RichardEtchberger,unlessotherwisenotedPhotographer(cover):DanielLevison/VerticalImageryCoverDesigner:JackDavisIllustrator:ThomasBradleyIllustration&Design

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Pageiii

Contents

Chapter1GoingRockClimbing 1

WhyRockClimbing? 2

TypesofRockClimbing 4

GettingStarted 10

AnOverview 11

Chapter2RockClimbingEquipment 15

ChoosingaRockShoe 16

Chalk 19

ChoosingaClimbingHarness 19

SelectingaRope 21

ConnectingtheAnchorSystem 25

BelayDevices 29

ArtificialAnchors 30

Helmets 34

AFinalNoteonSafeEquipment 36

Chapter3RockClimbingCorrectly

37

FaceClimbing 39

CrackClimbing 47

CounterpressureTechniques 52

ProtectingYourselfWhileClimbingHowtoSetUpAnchors 56

SettingUpaTopRopeAnchorSystem 61

Belaying 65

HowtoBeginLeading 70

LeadingSportClimbs 76

HowtoGetDown 78

Pageiv

Chapter4RockClimbingFitnessandSafety 81

PreparingtoClimb 82

DevelopingClimbingSpecificFitness 86

DressingfortheRock 92

ObjectiveHazards 92

Chapter5TheBestPlacestoRockClimb 95

UnitedStatesGetaways 97

CanadianClimbing 104

ClassicRockoftheUnitedKingdom 108

AEuropeanSampler 111

ClimbingDownUnder 114

OtherSummits 115

Chapter6PursuingClimbingFurther 117

CompetitiveSportClimbing 118

IceClimbing 120

AlpineMountaineering 121

ClosingThoughts 123

AppendixForMoreInformation 125

Organizations 125

Books 127

Guidebooks 127

Periodicals 128

Videos 129

RockClimbingLingo 130

Index 133

Acknowledgment 138

AbouttheAuthor 139

1GoingRockClimbing

TheSierraskyisaperfectblueand,althoughitismidsummer,themorningairiscomfortablycoolasyoumoveupward.Yourhandssearchforbumpsandknobsinandaroundthesinglecrackthatwandersupthiswhitegraniteslab.Thereisajoyinyourmovementsalightnessexpressedassubtlebalances,gentlepulls,andprecisestepsasyoufollowanancientfissure.Thelake,some300verticalfeetbelow,promisesarelaxingswimoncethesummitisattainedandacarefuldescentisnegotiated.Fornow,it'sjustthesun,thewind,andthemovementovertherock.Thisisrockclimbingatitsbesthighandfreeinabeautiful,naturalenvironment.

MountainsummitshavefiguredsignificantlyinhistorysinceMoses'earlytrekupMr.SinaiandtheEmperorHadrian's2ndcenturyA.D.ascentofMountEtnatoviewthesunrise.Intheearly18thcentury,theglaciercladAlpsofEuropebegantoattractafewadventurersandscientists,andbythe1850srecreationalmountaineeringwaswellestablishedandthefirstclimbingclubhadbeenformed.

Astheeasiersummitswereattainedandattentionturnedtowardmoredifficultpeaks,itbecamenecessarytodevelopsafetyequipmentandmaster

specializedskillsforclimbingrock.Evenintotheearly20thcentury,difficultrockclimbingwasconsideredtobemerepracticeforascendingtheworld'shighpeaks.Sincethe1930s,however,rockclimbinghasevolvedintoagreatoutdooractivityinitsownright.Today,climbersofallagesenjoyroutesupeasy,lowangledslabs,steep,verticalfaces,anddifficult,nearlyhorizontal,overhangs.

Rockclimbinghasbeendescribedasdancelike,evenplayful,likeagame.Climbsvaryfromshorttraversesjustinchesoffthegroundtocontinuousascentsofsoaringwallsthatinvolvethousandsofdizzyingfeet.Youcanjoininatwhateverleveliscomfortableforyou.

ThincrackclimbinginTuolumneMeadows,California.

WhyRockClimbing?

Oneattractionofrockclimbingistheopportunityforpersonalchallenge.Climbingroutesareratedfordifficultyonanascendingnumericalscalethatenablesyoutofollowyourprogressandselectnewchallengesasformeronesareachieved.

Asasocialactivity,climbingishardtobeat.Familiesandfriendscangatheratthecragforadayofroutes,thencasuallyreminiscearoundtheeveningcampfire.Thenaturalsettingofmostrockclimbingareasprovidesyouwithopportunitiestocombineclimbingwithotheroutdooractivities,likemountainbikinguptheOwensRiverGorgeinCaliforniaorbackpackingintotheEnchantmentLakeswildernessofWashington.

Thevarioustypesofrockyielddifferenttexturesandfeatures.Theseproducedifferent"moods"ofclimbing,fromthepowerful,steepquartzitecrankingatDevil'sLakeinWisconsintothedelicatebalanceandprecisefootworkrequiredontheglacierpolishedgraniteofTuolumneMeadowsinCalifornia.Learningtorecognizeandusethesefeaturesashandandfootholdsprovidesanintriguingelementofproblemsolvinginrockclimbing.

ROCKFEATURES

areteAsharp,outsidecornerofrock.

bucketsLargeholdswithpositivelips.

buttressAmajorcornerfeaturelargerthananarete.

chimneyAcrackbigenoughtofitmostorallofthebodyinto.

crimpersSmallyetpositiveedgesofrock,justbigenoughforthefingertipstogriporsmaller.

dihedralAninsidecornerofrock.Alsoknownasan"openbook."

edgesSmallledgesofrockofvarioussizes.

faceAsteep,flatexpanseofrock.

flakeAwaferlikesectionofrockthathaspeeledpartwayfromthemainface.Flakescanbeassmallassinglehandholdsorbigenoughtocrawlbehind.

hornA"hornlike"projectionofrock,usuallygraspedatthetop.

jugAprojectionorcolumnofrockthatisgraspedlikeajughandle.

knobsProjectionsofrockthataregraspedorpinchedwiththefingersorhand.Knobsareoftencrystalsimbeddedinthemainrock.

nicheApocketoralcoveintherockthatisatleastlargeenoughforbothhandsorbothfeet.Whenanicheisbigenoughforone'sentirebody,itisoftencalledanalcove.

overhangArockfeaturethatissteeperthanvertical.

pocketsHolesordimplesintherock.Abigpocketcanbeabucket.

rampAledgelikefeaturethatleadsupwardandacrossthemainrock.

roofAlarge,horizontaloverhang.Alsocalledaceiling.

slabAlow,angled,relativelysmoothsheetofrock.

Oneofthemajorbenefitsofrockclimbingisitscontributiontooverallphysicalfitness.Theavailablerangeofdifficultiesenablesalmostanyonetobeginclimbing,andcontinuingtheactivitygraduallydevelopsone'sstrength,endurance,flexibility,andbalance.Perhapsbestofall,rockclimbingleadstosummitstheelusivehighplacesofdreamsandvisions.

TypesofRockClimbing

Advancesinequipmentandtechniqueshavemadethesportavailableandrelativelysafeforpersonsofallages.Modernnylonclimbingropesarevirtuallyunbreakablewhenusedappropriately,andnewanchordeviceshavesimplifiedoverallprotectionfortheclimber.

Boulderingprovidesenergeticpracticeforasolitaryclimberorproblemsolvingchallengesamongfriends.

Themostbasicformofrockclimbingisbouldering,orclimbingoverrockclosetothegroundwithoutanchors,ropes,andharnesses.Easytoverydifficultmovementsmaybetriedinrelativesafety,particularlyifapartnerspots,orhelpstocatchtheclimberduringshortfalls.Thepurityofboulderingappealstomany:Exceptforapairofspecializedrockshoesandabitofgymnasticchalkforthefingers,it'sjustyouandtherock.

Whentherockgetshighenoughthatseriousinjuryordeathcouldresultfromafall,mostclimbersusearopeandananchorsystem.Theanchorsystemconsistsofoneormoresolidpointsofattachmentoftheropetotherock.Anchorsmaybenaturalfeatures,suchastreesorrockhorns,ormechanicaldevices,whichtheclimbercarriesandwedgesintotherock.Oneendoftheropeistiedthroughaharnesswornaroundtheclimber'swaistandattachedtotheanchorsbyspringgated,aluminumcarabiners.Theotherendoftheropeismanagedbytheclimber'spartner,whocanapplyabrakingforcethatenablestheropeandanchorsystemtohold,orcatch,afallenclimber.

Manysmallercragscanbetopropedtoprovideawidesafetymargin.

Often,aconvenienttrailprovidesaccesstothetopofarockcrag.Insuchcases,ananchorsystemfortheropemaybesetupatthetopofthecragbeforeclimbingbeginsandtheroutetoproped.

Sometimesthereisnoeasyroute,andyoumustleadtheropeasyouclimbbysettingintermediateanchorsalongtheway.Theseintermediateanchorsareestablishedatintervalsalongtheclimbingroute,andtheropeclippedontoeachanchorusingacarabiner.Thispracticelimitsfallstothedistancebetweentheclimberandherlastanchorplusthatdistanceagainasthefallcontinuespasttheanchorandtheropetightens.

Thetwotypesofleadingdifferinhowtheintermediateanchorsareestablished.Traditionalleadsinvolvetheclimberconfiguringanchorpointsintherockduringtheascentusinganassortmentofdevices,orprotection(proforshort),whicharecarriedonacordaroundtheneckorontheclimber'sharness.Theproisrecoveredbytheleader'spartner,thesecond,asshefollowstheroute.

Makingdecisionsaboutwhereandhowtoplaceprotectionaddstothechallengeoftraditionalleading.

Thesecondtype,sportleads,involvetheuseofpresetanchors,usuallysteelbolts,thathavebeenpermanentlyfixedalongtheroute.Theseanchorsnormallyarespacedsuchthatfallswillberelativelyshortandtheclimbercanconcentrateonsolvingthemovementcomplexitiesoftheroute.Forthisreason,sportroutestendtobedifficult.

Withboltanchorsinplace,sportleadingisoftencalled''clipandgo"climbing.

Bothtypesofleadinginvolvemorethanmerelymakingthemovesontherock.Theleadermustcontinuallymakedecisionsregardingthedirectionoftheroute,whenandhowtoplacesolidintermediateanchors,andhowbesttoconserveenergy.Leadingrockclimbsisseriousbusiness:Itrequiresasteadymindandbodyandtheexperiencenecessarytomakeappropriatejudgments.

DifficultyRatingsforRockClimbs

Onceyouhavemasteredthebasicsofrockclimbing,youcanevaluateyourprogressbyattemptingmoredifficultroutes.Publishedguidebooksthatdescribespecificroutesareoftenavailableforestablishedclimbingareas.Thegeneraldifficultyofaparticularrouteisassignedanumerical"Class"value:

Class1walkingoverrelativelyflatterrain.

Class2hikingovervariedterrainontrailsorthroughopencountry.

Class3scramblingoversteepterrainwherethehandsareoccasionallyusedforbalanceandsupport.BecarefulwiththetermClass3,howeveritdoesn'talwaysmeantheclimbingiseasy.Someguidebooksusethetermtoindicateclimbingunroped,regardlessofthedifficulty.

Class4climbingovereasyterrainrequiringsignificantuseofthehandsandarmsforsupportandwhereafallcouldbefatal.Manyclimberswillputonaharness,tieintotherope,anduseanchorsonClass4routes.

Class5technicalclimbingwherearope,anchors,andotherspecializedequipmentarealwaysusedforprotection.Class5climbing,alsoknownasfreeclimbing,istheprimaryfocusofthistext.Thetermfreeclimbinghereisnottobeconfusedwithfreesoloing,whichmeansclimbingtechnicalClass5rockwithoutarope(asyouwouldinClass3climbing)averydangerousproposition.

Class6climbingthatrequirestheuseofartificialmeanssuchaspullingontherope,standingondevicesplacedintherock,orascendingsometypeofladder.Class6climbingisoftenreferredtoasaidclimbingandisdesignatedbytheletterAfollowedbyanumber,from0to5,toindicatetheoveralldifficultylevel.

SubjectivesystemshavebeendevelopedaroundtheworldtoratethedifficultyofvariousClass5rockclimbs.TheYosemiteDecimalSystem(YDS)ismostcommonforNorthAmericanroutesandcurrentlyrangesfrom5.0through5.14d.Suchratingscanhelpyoudiscriminateamongseveralpotentialroutesandgiveyousomeideawhetherarouteisappropriateforanovice,orisonethatwouldscarehimoutofthesportforever.Thesenumericalsystemsalsoenableyoutonoteyourpersonalprogressinclimbing.

Itisimportanttorealize,however,thatalloftheratingsystemsaresubjective.Aparticularclimbmayactually"feel"quitedifferenttodifferentpersons.Traditionally,theratinghasindicatedthedifficultyofthehardest

ROCKCLIMBINGRATINGSYSTEMS

American French Australian Likelyperception

5.05.45.55.6

10111213

Straightforwardmoveswithvariablesizeholds.

5.75.85.9

5a5b5c

14151617

Morecomplexmovesandpositionsoversteeperterrainwithsmallerhandandfootholds.

5.10a5.10b5.10c5.10d

6a6b

18192021

Ahandand/orfootholdmaybemissingforsomemoves.Mayrequiresomespecifictrainingyetis"doable"bymeremortals.

5.11a5.11b5.11c5.11d

6c7a

22232425

Tinyormissingholdsformostmoves.Steeptooverhanging.Requiresproblemsolvingskills.Apegenesmaybehelpful.

5.12a5.12b5.12c5.12d

7b7c

252626272728

Progressivelymoredifficultproblemsolvingandmovementsequences.Extremelysmallandlimitedholdsonsteepterrainorsomegoodholdsonnearhorizontaloverhangs.

5.13a5.13b5.13c5.13d

8a8b

2829293030313132

Sameasfor5.12range,butharder.Specifictrainingvirtuallyrequired.Vergesonsciencefiction,butafairnumberofclimberscandoit.

5.14a5.14b5.14c5.14d

8c 323233333434

Unreal!Likeclimbingoverhangingglass.Definitelyworldclass,butpossible.

individualmoveonaparticularroute.Thus,a27meter5.9routecouldhaveonemoveof5.9within30easiermovesof5.6,oritcouldinvolveone5.9moveafteranotherfortheentire27meters.SomeguidebookswillprovideaprotectionratingbyfollowingtheYDSratingwithanRforrunout,indicatinglargedistancesbetweenintermediateanchorpoints,oranXindicatingnonexistentprotectionanddeathpotentialfromfalls.Alwaysgiveyourselfsomeflexibilitywhenexploringanewareaforthefirsttimeand,whenindoubt,selectroutesconservativelythatis,beginwitheasierroutesandworkuptheratings.

AscentStylesforRockClimbing

Thenatureoftherockandthenaturalfeaturesalongtheroutedeterminethelevel.ofdifficultyofanascent,andthusdictatethesubjectivedifficultyrating.Amongthedifferent"styles"ofclimbingaroute,however,someaddadegreeofdifficultywithoutchangingtheoverallnumericalrating.Adding

difficultybyusingamorechallengingstylecanenhanceyoursenseofaccomplishmentuponcompletingaroute.AseriesoftermshavebeenstandardizedtodescribetheparticularstyleofanascentofaClass5route:

onsightflashAcompletefirsttryleadoftheroutewithoutfallsandwithoutanypriorviewingorknowledgeoftheroute.Theultimatestyle.

betaflashAfirsttryleadoftheroutewithoutfalls,butafterreceivingsomeinformation,or"beta,"abouttherouteorspecificmovesinvolved.

redpointAcompleteleadoftheroutewithoutfalls,followingpreviousattemptsorpracticeontheroute.

pinkpointThesameasRedPointexceptthattheroutehasbeenpreprotectedwithanchorpointssuchthattheclimbermerelyhastocliptheropethroughthem.

topropeClimbingwiththeropealreadyanchoredabovetovirtuallyeliminatefalldistance.

GettingStarted

Climbsthatinvolvesettingupanchorsandusingharnessesandropescanbecomplicated.Thisbookprovidesyouwiththebasicfundamentalsofmovingonrock,selectingandusingequipment,andideasfortrainingtoimproveyourclimbing.However,thereisnoadequatesubstituteforpersonalcinstructionfromaqualifiedclimbinginstructororguide.Specificsafetytechniquesarepresentedthroughoutthetext,butifatechniqueorconceptismisinterpretedandincorrectlypracticed,theconsequencescouldbeseriousorfatal.

Manyuniversitiesofferbeginningrockclimbinginstruction,andlocalclimbingorganizationsandclubsoftenholdseminarsandclasses.Informationonwhatisavailablecanusuallybefoundatyourlocaloutdoorequipmentstore.TheAmericanMountainGuidesAssociation(listedintheAppendix)canalsohelpyouidentifyrockclimbinginstructorsandguidesinyourarea.

Rockclimbingisapartnersport.Evenboulderingusuallyrequiresapartnertospotyoufordifficultmoves.Youwillneedtobeselectivewhenidentifyingaclimbingpartner,becauseyourlifemaydependuponthisperson.Takethetimetofindsomeonewithwhomyoucancommunicatewell,andwhomyoucantrust.

AnOverview

Wewillbeginbyreviewingthearrayofequipmentusedinrockclimbing.Chapter2acquaintsyouwiththegear,fromsecuringyourselfintoaharnessthroughtyingintotheropeandclippingintoyourfirstanchor.MovementtechniquesforefficientandenjoyableclimbingarepresentedinChapter3.Youwillalsolearnmoreaboutusingtechnicalequipmenttoenablesafeclimbinginthischapter.InChapter4youwilllearnaboutspecifictrainingthatcanimproveyourclimbingperformance.Chapter5isacolorfulandexcitingtourofclassiccragsaroundtheworld.Thischaptershouldconjureupafewdreamsandfuturevacationplans.Manyrockclimbersalsoenjoyusingtheirskillsontheworld'shighmountains,wheretheroutesmaypassovericeandsnowinadditiontorock.BasicintroductionstoiceclimbingandAlpinemountaineeringarefoundinChapter6.Thischapteralsocontainssometipsaboutcompetitiverockclimbing.AttheendofthebookyouwillfindaninformativeAppendixthathasanextensivelistofresourcesforadditionalinformationandaGlossaryofbothtechnicalandslangtermsusedinrockclimbing.

GONETOTHEHAPPYHUNTINGGROUNDS

ItisnestledamongthepinesintheHawk'sNestareaofDevil'sLakeStatepark,Wisconsin24metersofadventureonslickredandpurplequartzite.Thenewcropofupstart,sportclimberhotshotsflashitonsightaratheraggravatingexhibition,sinceittookmefiveyearstomovethroughthemaincrux.Ofcourse,Ionlyattemptedtherouteahalfdozentimesoverthatperiod,butstill.....Theoneconsolationisthateveryonewhogoesupitcomesdownwithbloodengorgedforearms,sweatybrows,andmorethanabitofoxygendebt.AtleastnowIknowtherouteissupposedtobedifficult.

Untilayearago,IthoughtitwastherouteREx,whichwasratedF9BinthearchaicsystemoftheDevil'sLakeguidebook.TheF9Bratingwouldtranslateintosomethingaround5.9+to5.10ainanyothersource.Difficultbutnotimpossibleforafortyish,absentmindedprofessortype.Theinitial12meterswereworkedoutonthefirstdayofattempts,beforethecruxmovesstalledmejustbelowanexcellent,or"bomber"(shortforbombproof),horizontaledge.Iknewthatedgewasthekey.Iwouldbehomefreeupthetop12metersifIcouldjustgetitwitharighthand.Thenextyearithappened!Istemmedmyfootoutrightontoaslopinghold,liftedtheleftfootafewincheshigherintothebaseofthe

smalldihedral,andreached...yes!ThebomberIhadit!Iwasofftothetop!But,wait...realitycheck...Iwasgoingnowhere.Ipulleduponthebomberandlockedoffthearmwithmyelbowtightlyflexed,butnothingappearedforthelefthandandtherewaslessforthefeet.So,Ijusthungthere,lockedoffwithmyforearmsgorgedwithblood,orpumped,untilIfell.Andthat'sthewayitwentforthenextthreeyears:huffupthecrack,reachdelicatelyfortherightpocket,powerintothelayback,crank,crankagain,stemandreachforthebomber,pullandlockoff,hang...pump...fall.

NotallvisitstoDevil'sLakewerespentlockedoffonREx.Afterall,otherclassicssuchasCharybdis(5.8),Anomie(5.9),andAlphaCentauri(5.10d)arewithin9metersofithardroutesthatIcouldactuallydo.AlphaCentauriactuallybegantofeeleasy.Still,afterclimbingthesegreatroutes,IwouldglanceoveratRExandshrug.

AtsomepointduringthoseyearsIrealizedthatIhadmisinterpretedtheDevil'sLakeguidebook.WhatIthoughtwasRExwasactuallytherouteHappyHuntingGroundsandwasratedF10aintheguidebook'ssystem.Itcouldpossiblybecalled5.10d,maybeeven5.11a,anywhereelse.Thisallowedmetorationalizemylackofsuccessandprovidedanexcusetorepeattheotherroutesinstead.Ididoccasionallytryit,however,andevenrevealedittootherclimbers.Iwatchedafewoftheselockoffonthatbomber,reachupwiththelefthandandlevitateoverthebulge,meanderupandaroundtheblocks,andfinallyworkunderthebigroofandouttotheanchors.SomediditafteratryortwoTodd,Miles,hisbrotherBill,even"Gumby."However,Iwatchedmorethanthesefewlockoffatthebomber,pause,thenfallandlowertothegroundhuffingandcomplainingaboutgettingpumpedandruiningtherestoftheday.

Then,onarecentspringmorning,IwatchedasPaulflashedit!Paul,whohasonlybeenclimbingacoupleofyears,huffedandgruntedabitthroughthelowermovesthenlockedoffthe"bomber,"reached,grabbed,andfloateduptotheroof.Teenagers!

Thenitwasmyturn.AfteratwoyearsabbaticalfromHappyHuntingGrounds,Iwastiedintotheropeandpullinguptheliebacktosetupthereachforthebomber.Althoughthemoveswerenotthesmoothest,theywent.Igotfourfingersonthehold,pulled,lockedoff,pumped...andfell.

It'seasytobecomeobsessedwitharoute,butIknowthereareaboutazillionreasonableroutesoutthere,soanobsessionissimplynotjustified.WiththisthoughtIuntiedfromtherope,munchedaPopTart,andenjoyedthesunthroughthepines.Afewotherfriendstriedtheroute

andoneactuallygotthebomber,buteventhisonelocked,pumped,andfell.Paulhadtoleaveforhomeand,ashorttimelater,myfamilystartedpackingupforthehikedowntotheparkinglot.MyropehungunoccupiedonHappyHuntingGrounds.

WithinashorttimeIwastiedinandheadedupagainformyusuallockoff,pump,andfall.Afteronegofromtheusualperspective,Iallowedamoreexploratoryglanceouttotheright,aroundthesubtlecorner,andspiedasmalltriangularpocketbigenoughforatoe.Iswitchedhandsonthebombertoaleftclinginordertoreachthepocket,thenfingertippeda"littlenothing"bumpupontherightasIliftedmyleftfoothighintotheshallowdihedral.Carefulbalancethenallowedareleaseofthebomber,areachhighertoashallow,slopinghold,thenarighthanduptoagoodbucket.Iheardtrumpetfanfares!Fireworkslitthesky!Therestoftheroutetotheroofwaspurejoy.ThisnowclassicroutepresentedsomewildpositionsasImovedtenuouslyunderthedarkceiling,thendelicatelyouttotheright,searchingforthereachoverthelipandtheholdsleadinguptotheanchors.Theholdsappearedjustintime,andIlevitatedoutanduptothetop.Whew!Ievendidthecruxmovesagainjusttobecertain.Later,thesixhourdrivehomefromDevil'sLakeseemedbriefasitwasfilledwithpleasantvisionsofmovinguptheroute.Afterfiveyears,thisadventurous24meterstotheHappyHuntingGroundshadfinallybecomeafamiliarpath.

2RockClimbingEquipment

Yoursafetyandsuccessinrockclimbingdepend,invariousdegrees,uponyourequipment.Avisittothelocalclimbingshoporalookthroughoneofthecurrentgearcataloguescanbearealeyeopener.Awidevarietyofequipmentisavailablethesedays,andthepricetagsmayseemexcessive,particularlybecausemaintainingareasonablemarginofsafetyoftenprecludesthepurchaseofuseditems.

Fortunately,thenaturalprogressioninclimbingfromboulderingtotopropingand,eventually,toleadingascentsenablesagradualaccumulationofthenecessaryitems.Technicalclimbinginvolvestwoormorepersons,andmostclimberswillpooltheirequipmentatthecragforinstance,onepartnersuppliestheropeandtheothertheanchorgear.

Boulderingrequiresminimalequipment:awellfittedpairofclimbingshoesandachalkbagwillusuallydo.Topropeclimbingrequiresaropeandanchorgear,butitisstillrelativelyinexpensiveincomparisonwithmanyotherexerciseandsportactivities.Traditionalleadclimbingrequiresawiderassortmentofanchordevicesandassociatedgear,buteventheexpenseofaleadclimbingsetupcanbeminimizedwithoutcompromisingsafety.

ChoosingaRockShoe

Thereisuniversalagreementthattheoneitemofgearhavingthemostimpactonrockclimbingperformanceisfootwear.Rockclimbingwasoriginallypracticeformountaineering,andearlyclimberswouldslipandslideuptherockinstiff,unresponsivemountainorhikingboots.Throughtrialanderror,climbersfinallyfiguredoutthatthesofterrubbersolesofbasketballshoesworkedmuchbetter,thoughtheirextremeflexibilitycausedproblemsonsteepfaceclimbs.Thefirstshoesdesignedspecificallyforrockclimbingincorporatedsmoothrubbersolesforhighfriction,astiffforefootforsecurestancesonsmallrockedges,andlightweightmaterialstosaveweight.Thespecializedrockshoedesigncameintoitsowninthe1980swiththedevelopmentofaspecialrubberforthesolesandrands(thesidesoftheshoes).This"sticky"rubberenabledclimberstostandontiny,roundedcrystalsaswellaswaferthinedges.

Justoveradecadeago,therewereperhapstwoorthreebrandsofrockshoefromwhichtochoose.Today,thereareallroundstylesthatperformwellonalltypesofrockandterrainaswellasexoticspecialtyshoesdesignedforveryspecifictypesofclimbing.Amagazinerecentlyreviewedover40differentrockshoemodelsthatrangedinpricefromaround$90toover$140.Becausevirtuallyallmodernrockshoeshavestickyrobbersoles,themostimportantconsiderationswhenmakingachoicearefitandthebalancebetweenstiffnessandflexibility.

Althoughyoucangetrockshoesthroughoutdoorequipmentmailordercompanies,itisbesttoactuallytryonvariousmodels.Storesthatcarryrockclimbinggear,andindoorclimbinggymsinparticular,oftenrentshoesthatyoucantryout.Watchfor"demo"festivalswhereseveralcompaniesprovideshoesforyoutotest.

FittingaShoe

Wearingrockshoeshasbeendescribedasthe"agonyofdefeet."Contemporaryshoedesignshaveeliminatedpainandfootinjuryasthepriceyoupay

forashoethatperformswell.Still,youwanttoensurethatyourfootwillnotsliporrotateinsideoftheshoeandthattherearenoairpockets,particularlyintheforefootarea,thatcancollapseandbendwhenyoutransferyourweighttothefoot.Thus,asnugfitremainsessential.

Generally,youwillwearasizeortwosmallerthanyourstreetshoes.Theactualfitforagivensizevariesconsiderablyamongshoemanufacturers,andevenamongstylesofferedbythesamesupplier.Again,itisveryimportantforyoutotryseveralsizesandmodelsforthebestfit.Someclimberswearalightweightlinersock,butmostweartheirshoesoverbarefeettoensureasensitivefeelfortherocktexture.Whateveryourpreference,theshoemustfit.

Youcanexpectallrockshoestostretchabit.Linedshoeswillstretchlessandfeeltightlongerhowever,theymayofferlesssensitivityonsubtlerocktextures.Unlinedshoeswillshapetoyourfootandinitiallyprovidecomfortable,preciseperformance,butmaystretchseveralsizeswithuse.Newer,unlinedmodelsusespecialstitchingpatternstolessenstretchwithoutsacrificingflexibility.

StiffnessversusFlexibility

Therightbalanceofstiffnessandflexibilitylargelydependsonthetypeofrockandterrainoverwhichyouwillbeclimbing.Astiffershoeperformswellincontinuouscracksandonsteepfaceclimbsthatrequireedgingthesolesonsmall,sharpfeatures.Oncetheseshoesaresetandweightedonsmallrockedges,thestiffsoleprovidesavirtualledgetostandon.Ontheotherhand,verystiffshoesofferlittleadvantageonlowerangledfrictionclimbswheremaximizingthecontactareabetweenrubberandrockisimportant.

Whencontactareaandtheabilityto"grab"holdsiscritical,aflexibleshoewillprovidesuperiorperformance.Manyoftheverydifficultmodernsportclimbs,andindoorclimbingwallsinparticular,requireaflexibleshoethatallowsyoutofeelandadjusttosubtlefeaturesinthesurface.

Arockshoeshouldhaveafairamountofrobberextendingaroundthetoeandalongtherandsoftheshoe.Stickyrobberrandsareessentialforcrackclimbingwheretheshoewillbewedgedor"jammed"inthecrackduringmoves.

TheclimberwhowantstoenjoythesteepcracksofYosemite,thesmoothfrictionofStoneMountain,andthesharp,crystaledgesoftheRushmoreNeedlesbyusingasinglepairofrockshoesmightconsideramoderatelystiffallroundmodelforthatinitialpurchase.

Differenttypesofrockshoes(lefttoright):allpurposeshoe,structurededgingshoe,unstructuredflexibleshoe,lightweightslipper.

Allrockshoeswilleventuallybreakdowninstructureorstretchandbecomesloppy.Oncethecorrectfitislost,performancewilldiminish.Propercareandattentiontowearonthesolesandrands,however,shouldenableyoutouseashoefortwotothreeyears.

CaringforYourShoes

Minimizewearonthesoftsolesbylimitingwalkingandstandinginyourshoes.Ifyoumustkeepthemonwhileyouarenotclimbing,wearalargesockovertheentireshoe.

Protectthesolesfromexcessivedirtandanyoilyresidues.Anoccasionallightbrushingwithabrasssuedebrushcanhelprestore''stickiness"totherubbersurface.

Allowshoestodryoutthoroughlybetweenusestopreventrottingofthestitching.

Resoleyourshoesbeforetherandsaredamaged.Haftsolescanbeputonforasmallfractionofthecostofshoereplacement,butbesuretohaveanexperiencedrockshoecobblerdothejob.Resolingservicesadvertiseinallofthemountaineeringandrockclimbingspecialtymagazines.

Chalk

Byminimizingtheeffectsofhandandfingersweat,gymnasticchalk(magnesiumcarbonate)canincreaseyourabilitytogripholds.Chalkistypicallycarriedinahandsizedchalkbag,whichiseitherclippedtotheclimbingharnessortiedaroundthewaistonacord.Youcangetachalkbagforaround$12to$15,andablockofchalkforjustover$1fromstoresthatcarryclimbinggear.

Althoughmostclimbersusechalk,itdoespresentaproblemfromanecologicalstandpoint.Thenaturalbeautyofmanyrockcragsandformationshasbeenmarredbycountlesswhitedotsleftfromthechalkedhandsofclimbers.Theuseofchalkhassometimesbeencharacterizedasaformoflittering.Inmostcaseschalkwillwashoffinthenextrainhowever,onheavilyusedroutesandunderoverhangsandroofs,itmayremainforgenerations.Theimpactofchalkmaybeminimizedthroughconservativeuseandperiodiccleaningoftherockbyconcernedclimbers.Alwayscheckwithlocalclimbersorrecreationareamanagersconcerninganarea'sunwrittenethicorestablishedrulesconcerningtheuseofchalk.

ChoosingaClimbingHarness

WhenIbeganclimbing,Iwouldsimplywraptheropearoundmywaistandsecureitwithabowlineknotbackedupwithacoupleofoverhands.Simple,yes,buttofallmeantapainfulconstrictionandnearsuffocationastheroperodeupovermylowerribs.Isoonswitchedtoa"swamibelt,"madebywrappingstrong,tubularnylonwebbingaroundmywaistseveraltimesandtighteningitwithawaterknot.Theropewasthentiedaroundtheswamibeltandsecuredwithafigure8followthroughknot.Thiswasaslightimprovement,butmywaiststillabsorbedalloftheforceofafall.Asaresult,Istucktoeasierroutestoavoidfalling,andconsequentlylimitedmyprogressandskilldevelopment.

Awidearrayofcommercialclimbingharnessesarenowavailablethatarecomfortable,lightweight,andstrong.TheUnionInternationaledesAssociationsD'Alpinisme(UIAA)hassetstrengthstandardsforclimbingharnesses,andallmainbrandcommercialharnessesmeetorexceedthesestandards.Harnessdesignsareavailablethatarespecificallytailoredformen,women,orchildren.Theharnessmustfitsnuglyaroundyourwaistatthetopofthehipbones,andthewaistbeltmustbelongenoughforyoutodoubleitbackthroughthebucklesystem.Becausevariousmodelsandstylesmayhavesubtlefitdifferences,tryseveralonbeforemakingyourfinalpurchase.

HARNESSFEATURES

Thepriceofaharnessgenerallyreflectstheparticulararrayoffeaturesitoffers.Pricesrangefrom$35to$80.

1.Theharnessweightwillnotusuallyaffectitsoverallstrengthmuchandmayseemtrivialbecauseallharnessesarerelativelylightweight.However,alighterharnessmaybecriticalforsuccessonthemostseveresportclimbingroutes.Generally,thelightertheharness,thegreaterthecost.

2.Forsummerclimbinginshortsortights,astandard,nonadjustableharnessisthemosteconomicalchoice.However,adjustablelegloopsmaybeusefulifyouclimbincolderweatherwithmoreclothingorsharetheharnesswithafriendofdifferentproportions.

3.Easeofuseismorethanaconvenienceinstressfulsituationswherecomplexitycanleadtoerrorandpotentialaccidents.Aqualityharnessshouldoperatesimplyandbeeasytowearandremove.

4.Theavailabilityofattachedgearloopsprovidesaneasywaytotransportanchordevicesandothersmallequipment.

SAFETYTIPProperuseofyourharnessisessentialforsafety.Harnessesdifferinhowtheyaresecuredontheclimber,butmostinvolveadoublepassbucklethroughwhichthewaistbeltwebbingmustbedoubledback.Checkyourbucklesystem(andyourpartner's!)beforeyoubeginaclimbandfrequentlythroughouttheday.Harnessesalsodifferinthepropermethodoftyingintotherope,sobesuretogetspecificinstructionsconcerningyourharness.Protectyourharnessfromchemicalsthatdamagenylonandfromunnecessaryabrasion.Inspectyourharnessfrequentlyfordamageandabradedstitching,andretireitwhenyouhavedoubts.

SelectingaRope

ThenaturalprogressionfromboulderingistechnicalClass5climbingwitharope.Whenyouaretryingwildmovesandpushingyourlimits,fallsaretobeexpected,sodon'tskimponyourmainlineofprotectiontherope.Fortunately,modern,dynamicclimbingropes,testedandapprovedbytheUIAA,donotbreakundernormaluse.Ontheotherhand,ropescanbecutbyfallingrockorslicedbybeingstressedoverasharpedgeofrock.Improperusealwaysinvitesdisaster,solearnthecorrectprocedureswithyourlifeline.

Climbingropeshaveevolvedfromstrandsofnaturalmanilafibers,whichwerequestionableatholdingfalls,totoday'sstrong,nylonkernmantle(coreandsheath)ropes.Theusualdimensionsofkernmantleropesare50meters(1meter=3.28feet)inlengthby10to11millimeters(1millimeter=0.39inches)indiameter.Normally,youshouldavoidshorterropesbecausemanyestablishedclimbingroutesassumethattheclimberisusingaropeofatleast50meters.Onleadclimbsitcanbeunnervingtorunoutofropebeforethenextanchors.Someropesarespeciallydesignedtobeuseddoubledtheyrangefrom8.5to9.0millimetersindiameter.

Thespecificqualitiesofnoteformodernropesincludethenumberoftestfallsheld,impactforce,staticandimpactforceelongation,weight,andwaterrepellency.Ropemanufacturerswillincludethisinformationonatagattachedtoallnewropes.Dependingontherope'sspecificcharacteristics,pricesnormallyrangefrom$130to$180per50meterrope.

CharacteristicsandRatingsofClimbingRope

TheUIAAtestsandratesdynamicropesforuseasasingleropeorasdoubleropes(tworopesusedtogether).TheprincipleUIAAtestinvolvesaworstcasescenariofalltesttodeterminethenumberof5meterfallsofan80kilogram(1kilogram=2.205pounds)weightthata2.8metersectionofropecanwithstandbeforebreaking.Mostsingleropeswillaveragebetween5and12fallsinthisseveretest.Aropemustsurviveaminimumof5fallstoearnUIAAapproval.Impactforce,ortheexpectedforceontheclimberandanyanchors,isalsomeasuredduringthestandardfalltestandmustnotexceed11.8kiloNewtons(kN),or2,650pounds(1kiloNewton=224.8pounds).

TheUIAAstatictensiontestdeterminesthedegreeorpercentageofstretchovera1metersectionofropeunderan80kilogramload.Singleropesmustnotstretchmorethan8percent,andanapproveddoubleropemustnotstretchgreaterthan10percent.Thedynamicstretchbuiltintoclimbingropesreducestheimpactforcesontheclimberandanchorsystem,

butalsoincreasestheoveralldistanceofagivenfallandthechanceofhittingsomethingonthewaydown.Thus,theUIAAstandardsprovideareasonablecompromise.

ItshouldbenotedthattheseUIAAratingsarefordynamicropesspecificallydesignedforrockclimbing.Ropesareavailablethatpossessstrongstaticqualities(verylittlestretchunderforce),butthesecanresultinseverestressloadsonafallenclimberandontheanchorsystem.Staticropesareusuallyusedforrappellingandasfixedlinesfordescendingintoandascendingoutofcaves.Usually,itisbesttoavoidstaticropesfortechnicalrockclimbingapplications.

Ropeweightsdependondiameterandspecificconstructiondesigns,averagingbetween65and80grams(1gram=.035ounces)permeterfor10to11millimetersingleropes.Ropesdesignedforuseindoubleropesystemsarelighter,at45and55gramspermeterhowever,tworopesarerequired.

Youcanusuallypurchaseropeswithorwithoutawaterrepellentcoating.Ropestreatedforwaterrepellencyarecalleddryropes.Suchtreatmentreducestherope'stendencytosoakupwaterthatotherwisewouldincreasetherope'sweightanddecreaseitsstrength.Somefeelthatthewaterrepellenttreatmentimprovestherope'sresistancetoabrasionaswell.Iftheaddedcostandweightcanbetolerated,mostclimberspreferdryropes.

RetiringaRope

Noonereallyknowsexactlyhowlongaropeshouldlast,andthecoreoftheropemaybedamagedwithoutanyvisibleprobleminthesheath.Ingeneral,mostclimberswillretirearopeafterfouryearsregardlessoffrequencyofuse.However,ifyouuseyourropeonmostweekends,perhapstwoyearsismoreacceptable,whileextensiveusemayrequiremorerapidturnover.Exposuretoasevere,longfalljustifiesimmediateretirementoftherope.Keepinmindthattopropefalls,asopposedtofallswhileleading,aremuchlessstressfulontheropebecausetheoverallfalldistancesareusuallyquiteshorter.

StackingandCoilingtheRope

Whenyoupulltheropefromyourpack,lookaroundforagoodlocationtoplaceit.Avoidtossingtheropeintothedirtorotherdebris.Specialropebagsareavailablethatopenoutintoagroundclothonwhichtolayouttherope,althoughajacketorstuffsackworksjustaswell.

Mostclimberswilltransportandstoretheirropeinacoil.However,wheninuse,theropetendstotanglelesswhenrandomlystacked.Layoutoneend

oftheropetothesidesothatitwillbeeasytofind,thenstacktheropeinaneatbutrandompile.

Whenyouwanttomovetoanotherrouteyouwillneedtoneatlycoiltherope.Thereareseveraleffectivemethodsofcoiling,butmostclimbersusesomevariationofthebutterflycoil.Toexecutethiscoil,matchthetwoendsoftheropeandpullthroughaboutthreedoublearmlengthsofropetoleavefree.Nowbeginpullingthroughdoublearmlengthsandlayingthesebutterflywingsoveralternatesidesofoneopenhand.Whenyougettothedoubledendoftherope,splitthedifferenceacrossyourhand.Wrapthefreeendsseveraltimesaroundthecoilbelowyourhandthenpushabight,orbend,oftheremainingropethroughtheeyeletformedbythewraps.Threadthedoubledfreeendsthroughthisbighttosecurethewraps,andtheropeisreadyforstorage.

Youcanrigthebutterflycoiltocarryonyourbackbylayingeachfreeendoverashoulder,thenwrappingthembackacrosstheropecoilsandyourwaist.Securethefreeendsinfrontwithasquareknot,andyouarereadytoscramble.

TakingCareofYourRope

Onceyouhavepurchasedanewrope,properuseandcareisessentialtoensuremanyhoursofsafeclimbing:

Protectyourropefromdirtandotherdebrisasmuchaspossible.Nevertossyourropeintothedirtatthebaseofthecrag.Useagroundcloth,pack,orjackettostacktheropeon.Also,avoidsteppingontherope,asthiscangrindsharpparticlesofsandanddirtthroughthesheathandintothecore.

Minimizeexposureofyourropetoexcessiveheatandthesun'sultravioletrays.Considerstoringyourropeinastuffsackorcustomropebagwhennotinuse.

Avoidexposingtheropetoanysubstancethatisharmfultonylon,includingcertainsolventsandcorrosiveproducts.

Donotlendoutyourrope.Whowilltreatitwiththesamecareasyoudo?Forthesamereason,neverpurchaseausedrope.

Inspectyourropefrequentlyforvisibledamage.Remember,though,thatthecoremaybedamagedwithoutanyvisibleevidence.Whenindoubt,retiretherope.

TyingInTheFigure8FollowthroughKnot

Thestandardknotusedtoconnecttheropetoyourharness,aprocedurecalledtyingin,isthefigure8followthrough.Thisisasolidknotthatbecomestighterwhenforceloaded,yetcanbeuntiedreasonablyeasilywhenyouwish.Afigure8knotisfirstputintotheropeaboutthreefeetfromtheend.Thefreeendisthenthreadedthroughtheharness(checkyourharnessdesign,astheproperwaytothreaddiffersamongmodels)andthefigure8rewoven,orfollowedthrough,untiltheendexitstheknotinadirectionawayfromyourharness.Youmustleaveatleastthreeinchesoftailtopreventtheendaccidentallyslippingpartwaythroughtheknotinafall.Checkyourtieinknotoftenduringaclimbingouting.

Howtotiethefigure8followthroughknot.Alwaysleaveatleasta7.5centimeter(3inch)tailwhentheknotispulledtight.

ConnectingtheAnchorSystem

TechnicalClass5climbingalwaysinvolvesoneormoreanchorsystemsthatsecuretheropeandclimberstotherockorground.Whethertheanchorsaresturdynaturalfeaturessuchastreesandboulders,orsometypeofartificialanchordevice(discussedlaterinthischapter),theconnectiontotheclimbersandropemustbestrongandeasilyused.Anchorsusuallyareextendedbynylonwebbingloops(runners),andeventuallyconnectedtotheclimber'sharnessortotheropeusingmetalsnaplinks(carabiners).

Runners

Oneinchtubularnylonwebbingisthemainstayformakingrunners(sometimescalledslings),althoughwidthsof14.3millimetersand17.5millimetersareavailableaswell.A1.7meterlengthofwebbingisnormallytiedintoaloopusingawaterknotforastandardlength,orsingle,runnerwhile2.9metersaretiedtomakealong,ordouble,runner.Intopropeclimbing,wheretreeandboulderanchorsmaybeseveralfeetbackfromthecliffedge,longerlengthsof6to9metersareoftenconvenient.

Oneinchtubularnylonwebbingisbothstrongover1,800kilogramsbreakingforceandinexpensiveatapproximately$1.00permeter.Youcanalsopurchaserunnerspresewnwithbartacks,whichprovidegreaterstrengthandlessbulkthanknottedrunners.Ofcourse,sewnrunnersareabitmoreexpensiveanddonotprovidetheversatilityofchangeablelengththattiedrunnersdo.

AnewerandstrongerfibernowavailableforsewnrunnersisSpectra,whichis,poundforpound,about10timesasstrongassteel.Spectrarunnersareavailableina15.8millimeterwidthandarealwayspresewnbecauseSpectradoesnotholdknotswell.Spectraismoreexpensivethantubularnylonandmustbeprotectedfromheatduetoitslow(300degreeFahrenheit)meltingpoint.

JoiningTwoEndsofWebbingorCord/Rope

Thewaterknotisusedtojointheendsofastrandofwebbingtoformalooporrunner.Beginwithabasicoverhandknot,thenfollowtheoverhandbackthroughwiththeotherendofwebbing.Pulltheknottogethertightlyandleaveatleast7.5centimetersforeachtail.Remember,neverattempttotieSpectrawithaknotitwillslipeasilyandcomeundoneunderlowforces.

Thegrapevineknotismoreappropriateforroundmateriallikecordandrope.Oncetied,settheknottightly.Aswiththewaterknot,7.5centimetertailsshouldbeleftinthefreeends.

Howtotiethewaterknotinflatwebbing.

Howtotiethegrapevineknotincordorrope.

Carabiners

Beforeyoubegintechnicalrockclimbing,youwillneedtoobtainaselectionofcarabiners.Thesealuminumalloysnaplinksareusedtoconnectthevariouscomponentsoftheclimbingsystem.Carabinersaredesignedwithaspringloadedgatewhichcanbeopenedtoaccepttherope,webbingloops,oranchorconnections.InordertoobtainUIAAapproval,acarabinerdesignmusttesttoaminimumbreakingstrengthof19.5kiloNewtonsalongthespine,orsolidside,and4.0kiloNewtonsalongthegatedside.Most"biners"willberatedwellabovetheseminimumvalues.

Carabinersareavailableinthreebasicdesignsbasedontheiroverallshape.Ovalsaresymmetrical,withthepointofmaximumlengthmidwaybetweenthespinesideandthegatedside.Thesebinersareveryversatileandenablepositioningwiththegateupordown.Dshapedbinersarelongeralongthespinesidethanthegatedside.Thisresultsinforcesbeingdirectedmorealongthespinesideandastrongerdesignperweightunitthantheoval.Thus,aslightlylighterDbinercanbeseveralhundredkilogramsstronger

Carabiners(clockwisefromtop):Standardoval,standardD,asymmetricalD,bentgateD,lockingD,HMS.

thanastandardoval.Asymmetrical,oroffsetDcarabiners,arewideratthegateopeningendtoenableeasierclippingoftheropewithoutsacrificingthestrengthadvantageoftheDshape.AmodifiedasymmetricalDbiner,popularforleadingsportclimbs,isthebentgateD.Thebentshapeofthegateonthesebinersprovidesalargergateopening,whichmakesclippingtheropeeasier.

ManyofthestandardD,andlargerasymmetricalD,carabinersareavailablewithgatelockingsleeves.Theselockingbinersprovideanincreasedmarginofsafetyinsituationswherethegatemaybeaccidentallybumpedopen.Lockingbinersareavailableinscrewgatedesigns,wherethegatesleevemustbescrewedmanuallyintoplace,andintwistlockdesigns,wherethesleeveisspringloadedandsnapsintothelockedconfigurationuponrelease.

Oneusefulmodifiedlockingcarabineristhepearshaped,orHMS,biner.Theselarge,offsetlockingDbinersacceptalargevolumeofclippedmaterialsandusuallyareusedinaspecialropebelaytechniquecalledtheMunterHitch.

ATAGLANCE:CARABINERS

Design Advantages Disadvantages Price*

Standardoval Versatileallpurposedesign.Lowcost.

Lowerstrengthtoweightratio.

$4.50$5.50

StandardD Goodallrounduse.Strongerthanstandardoval.

Lessversatilethanovalsinsomesituations.

$5.00$6.00

AsymmetricalD Verylightweight,whileretainingstrengthoftheDshape.Easytoclipandunclip.

Normallymustbeorientedwiththegatedownward.CanunclipeasierthanstandardovalorD.Expensive.

$7.00$13.00

BentgateD SameasasymmetricalDpluslargergateopeningeasiertoclip.Mainstayforsportclimbing.

SameasasymmetricalD.Shouldonlybeusedfortheropeendofconnections.

$7.00$13.00

Locking(variousdesigns)

Locksystempreventsaccidentalopeningofgate.IncreasedstrengthMainstayforbelayandtopropeanchors.

Heavyandcostlyforstandardoveralluse.Specialdesignsareexpensive.

$7.00$20.00

*PricesinU.S.dollars.

SAFETYTIPThegateistheweakestlinkinallcarabiners.Avoidsetupsthatputpressuresidewaysacrossthebinerandontothegate.Acarabiner'sstrengthisreducedbymorethan50percentwhenthegateisopen,somakesureyourbinerssnapclosedeasilyandcompletelywhenreleased.

BelayDevices

Thesetupandtechniquesofmanagingaclimber'sropeandcatchingfallsiscalledthebelay.Iremembermyfirstbelaylesson.Iwasclippedintoananchoratthetopofa12meterquartzcragwiththeropewrappedaroundmywaistforfrictionandthefreeendgraspedinmyglovedhand,readyto

Belaydevices(lefttoright):ATCplate,StichtPlate,Figure8ring,MunterHitch.

increasethebodywrapwhentheclimberfell.Andfallhedid,all200poundsofhim.SomehowIhungontotheropewithvicelikefingersasitpainfullytightenedaroundmywaistandmybreathingtemporarilystopped.Thiswasthebodybelayexperience,agoodskilltoknowforemergencies,butIwasencouragedtoquicklyplaceanorderforamechanicalbelaydevice.

Belaydevicesincreasethefrictionontheropeduringafall,whichenablesthebelayertocontroltheforcegeneratedbythefall.MostbelaydevicesaremodificationsoftheslottedStichtPlateinventedinGermanyinthe1970s,throughwhichabendofropeispassedandtheloopclippedintoalockingcarabiner.Thesystemisthenclippedtothefrontofthebelayer'sharness.Mechanicalbelayplatesmakeholdingtheropeduringfallsrelativelyeasyandhaveeliminatedthefrictionburnscommonwiththebodybelay.

Severalbelaydevicedesignsareavailable.ModificationsoftheoriginalStichtPlatedesignprovideexcellentfrictionyetresistlockingupagainsttherope.Figure8belaydevicesallowforsmoothropemanagement,butmanyprovidelessfrictionthanaplatedesign.Pricesaveragearound$13to$15foreitherdesign.

Thereareacoupleofspecializedbelaydevicesavailablethatsecuretheropeduringafallevenifthebelayer'sbrakehandisofftherope.Suchautolockingbelaydevicesassurethatabelayerwillnot''drop"afallenclimber.Theseare,however,aboutfourtimesasexpensiveasabasicbelaydevice,andshouldnotberelieduponassubstitutesforaknowledgeableandexperiencedbelayer.

Manybelaydeviceswillalsoworkasafrictionmechanismforrappellingbacktothegroundafteranascent.Forthoselongormultiplerappels,itiswisetoacquireafigure8descender($11$15),whichwillbettertoleratetheheatbuildupfromfriction.

ArtificialAnchors

Anchorsareusedinavarietyofcircumstancesinrockclimbing,andmustalwaysbestrongandsecure.Someofthebestanchorsareestablishedbytyingoffnaturalfeaturessuchastrees,largeblocksofrock,chockstones,orrockhorns.Whennaturalfeaturesareunavailable,artificialanchordevicesareused.Artificialanchorsaredesignedtofitintocracksorpocketsintherockandareavailableinavarietyofmodels.

Asmallselectionofartificialanchorswillsufficeformosttopropingsituations.However,traditionalleadclimbingdemandsadditionalpiecesandawiderrangeofdesigns.Sportstyleclimbingrequiresonlyaquickdrawashortrunnerwithtwocarabinerstoclipintoeachfixedboltanchoralongtheroute.Still,itmaybewisetopurchaseafewanchorstobackuporsupplementthefixedanchorsonsomesportroutes.

Nuts,Hexcentrics,andTriCams

Themostbasicdesignforanartificialanchordeviceisataperedmetalwedgecalledthenutorchock.Thenutisplacedaboveorbehindaconstrictioninacrackintherockwhich,ifallgoeswell,willpreventitfrompullingout.Mostnutsaretaperedintwodimensions,whichenablesthepiecetofittwosizesofcrack.

Someoldernutshaveholesthroughwhichaloopof5to8millimeterperlon(nylon)cordisthreadedandtiedwithagrapevineknottoprovideacarabinerclipinloop.Mostmodernnuts,however,areswagedonstrongsteelcablesthatprovidetheclipinloops.Nutsrangefromapproximately7/4millimetersto38/28millimetersforheight/widthsizesandwithstanddynamicforcesfrom2.5toover10.0kiloNewtons.Pricesforwirednutsrangefromabout$6to$8dependingonthesize.

Hexcentricsaresixsidedaluminumalloychocksthatcanfitfourdifferentcracksizeseach.Thesmallesthexcentricscomewiredhowever,mostarethreadedwithKevlar,Spectra,orthenewerGeminicord,whichistiedwithagrapevineknottosecureaclipinloop.Unwiredhexcentricsarenotratedforstrengthbecausethetypeofcordandknotusedfortheclipinslingdeterminestheweakestpoint.Givenastrong,welltiedcord,hexcentricsareoneofthestrongestformsofartificialprotectionavailable.Hexcentricpriceswillrangefrom$6to$9each,butthecostofthecordfortheclipinslingmustbeadded.

AhybridbetweennutsandhexcentricsistheTriCam,madebyLoweAlpine.TriCamslookabitlikenuts,andmaybewedgedassuch,yettheiruniqueshapeenablesthemtofitunusualcontoursintherock.Thebigadvantageofthisdesignistheroundedshapethattendstorotateandwedgetighter,orcam,inacrackwhenforceloaded.Whentheclipinslingiswrappedbetweenthetwospinerailsandthepieceissetwithastrongtug,theforceofafallwillresultinincreasedpressureoftheTriCamagainsttherock.WhilelearningtoplaceTriCamscorrectlymaytakepatientpractice,theyareverystrongat8.420.4kiloNewtonsdependingonthesize.Elevensizesareavailable,ranginginpricefrom$13to$39each.

Nutsandhexcentricsarerelativelylightweightandinexpensiveasartificialanchorsgo.Aselectionof8to10nutsandhexcentricsofvarioussizeswilllikelysufficeforallofyourtopropeclimbingneeds.Ifyouplantoleadupsometraditionallyprotectedroutes,alargerselectionwillprovidemoreversatilityandthenecessaryextrapiecesforintermediateanchors.Ifyourbudgetallows,TriCamsmakeamoreversatilesubstituteforhexcentrics.

SpringLoadedCammingDevices(SLCDs)

Thefirstactivecamminganchorsappearedinthelate1970sandwerecalledFriends.Theseunusuallookingdevicesinvolvedfourkidneyshaped

cammingunitsspringmountedtoasingleaxleandrigidstem.Acableandtriggermechanismallowedonetoeasilycontractthecamsforplacementinacrack,whilereleaseofthetriggerwouldfreethespringmechanismtoexpandthecamsagainsttherock.Thiswouldholdthepieceinpositioneveninparallelsidedandflaringcracks.Aclipinslingtiedthroughaholeinthestemenabledattachmentoftheropeviacarabiner.Theshapeofthecamsresultedinawideningoftheunitandincreasedfrictionifaforcewasappliedthroughtheclipinsling.

Thesemiracleanchorsenabledrapidplacementandsecurityincrackswherenothingelsewouldwork.Withthisversatility,anabilitytofitawiderangeofcracksizes,andhighstrength,itiseasytoseewhyaSLCDistrulytheclimber'sfriend!

Today,SLCDscomeinseveraldesigns.Mostmanufacturershavereplacedtherigidstemwithflexiblesteelcablethatcanconformtorockedgesinsteadofriskingbreakagefromlateralforces.SomeSLCDshaveonlythreecamstoprovideanarrowerprofileforsmallcrackfeatures.OnemodelemploysadoubleaxledesignthatenablestheSLCDtofitawiderrangeofcracksizesandprovidessecurityasapassiveanchorevenwiththecamsfullyextended.

Allofthisconvenienceandversatilitydoesnotcomecheap,however.SLCDpricesrangefrom$45tojustunder$70peranchor.Afullwidthrangeofabout1870millimeterswillrequirefourtosevenunits.

Artificialanchors(clockwisefrombottom):wirednuts,wiredhexcentrics,TriCams,SLCDs.

Quickdraws

Sportroutesareusuallyprotectedbypermanentlyfixedanchors.Onthemoremodernroutes,themostcommonfixedanchorisa9.5millimeterboltthatissetintoadrilledholeintherockandequippedwithahangerthatacceptsacarabiner.Allyouneedtoattachtheropetotheseanchorsisaselectionofquickdraws.

Choosefromthemanytypesofquickdrawstoattachyourropetotheanchor.

Aquickdrawconsistsofashortloopofsewnwebbing,usually14.3millimeternylonor15.8millimeterSpectra,intowhichtwocarabinersareclipped.AstandardorasymmetricalDbinerisusedfortheclipintothebolt,whileabentgateasymmetricalDisconvenientfortheropeclipendofthequickdraw.Thestrengthratingsofsewnquickdrawrunnersvary,butareusuallyover20kiloNewtons.

Pricesforquickdrawslings,ranginginlengthfrom127203millimetersbinertobiner,are$2.50to$3.50.Youwillbeabletodomostboltedsportclimbswith8to10quickdrawshowever,longerroutesmayrequire12ormore.

GearRackSling

Thecollectionofcarabinersandartificialanchorgearthatyouwillhaularoundiscalledtherack.Youcanclipeverythingintoastandardrunnerloopedoveryourshoulder,butapaddedgearracksling($12$15)willbemorecomfortable.

Someclimbersprefertoclipgeartoloopsthatareavailableonmostclimbingharnesseshowever,spacemaybecomelimitedforthegearnecessaryforlonger,traditionalleadclimbs.Assportroutesrequireonlyquickdraws,theseharnessgearloopsarequiteadequate.

ProtectionMaintenance

Spendsometimepracticingplacementofartificialanchors.Thiswillhelpyoudevelopan"eye"forthecorrectsizeofanchorforagivencrack.

Inspectyourprotectionoftentocheckfordamage,especiallyfraysinthewireorcordclipinslings.

Whenthetriggermechanismonaspringloadedcammingdevicebecomessticky,washthepiecewithsoapandwater,rinsethoroughly,andlubricatetheaxlewithalightsprayofTeflon(nonoily)lubricant.

Retireanyartificialanchorthatsustainsasevereleaderfall.

Helmets

Ifyouthumbthroughoneofthecurrentrockclimbingmagazinesorvisitanestablishedclimbingarea,youwillnotlikelyseemanyclimberswearinghelmets.Climbersstatemanyreasonsforthislackofheadprotection:

helmetsaretoohottheyobstructvisionoftherouteaheadtheyconstrainthefreedomofclimbingtheyarenot"instyle."Thefactremains,however,thatmanyseriousclimbingrelatedinjuriescouldhavebeenprevented,ortheirseveritylessened,hadthepersonwornahelmet.

Ahelmetmayprotectyourheadfromfallingrockandotherdebris,aswellascushionitduringtumblingfalls.Whileestablishedcragsareusuallyfreeoflooserock,thechangingnatureofthemediumurgescaution.Ifyou

GEARINGUPTOCLIMB

Gearitems Price*Bouldering: Rockshoes $125.00

Chalkbagandchalk $15.00

Total=$140.00

Toproping: Boulderinggear($140.00)plus...

Harness $40.00

Rope(50mx11mm) $150.00

NylonwebbingAbout21metersinassortedlengths

$21.00

Standardcarabiners(6) $30.00

Lockingcarabiners(2) $15.00

Belaydevice $14.50

Stoppers/hexcentrics10inassortedsizes

$75.00

Nutpick $6.50

Helmet $50.00

Pack $40.00

Total=$582.00

Leadclimbingtraditionalstyle:

Allgearlistedfortoproping($582.00)plus...

Set(45)ofsmallerwiredstoppers $35.00

Setofspringloadedcammingdevices6to8from1.5to7.5centimeters

$350.00

Standardcarabiners(25) $100.00

Largelockingcarabiner $16.00

Standardnylonrunners(8) $25.00

Longrunner(1) $8.00

Quickdrawslings(6) $20.00

Gearracksling $18.00

Total=$1154.00

sportstyle: Shoes,chalkbag,harness,rope,belaydevice,2lockingcarabiners($359.50)plus...

StandardDcarabiners(1014) $60.00

Bentgatecarabiners(1014) $90.00

Quickdrawslings(1014) $36.00

Standardnylonrunners(23) $12.00

Total=$557.50

*PricesinU.S.dollars.Allamountsareestimatedaveragesformediumpriceditems.

progresstoalpinerockclimbingandmountaineering,wherefallingrockandicearerealprobabilities,useofahelmetisthenorm.Ihaveappreciatedmyhelmetonoccasionwhen,asIconcentratedonfootwork,Iconkedmyheadunderanoverhang.

Whenshoppingforahelmet,compareonlythosemodelsthatareapprovedforrockclimbingbytheUIAA.Makesurethefitisappropriate.Mosthelmetshaveadjustablesuspensionsystemstoaccommodateavarietyofheadcoverings,asweatherdictates.

AFinalNoteonSafeEquipment

Failureofequipmentinrockclimbingpresentsadifferentsetofproblemsthaninotherrecreationalactivities.Blowingatirewhilecyclingisaninconvenienceandcoststimetorepair.Fashioningareplacementforabrokencanoepaddleinmidstreamcanplaceastrainonyourcreativity.Inrockclimbing,however,mostequipmentfailureswillhaveimmediateconsequencesthataremorethaninconveniences.Yourchancesofrecoveringfromapulledanchor,brokencarabiner,orcutropeareminimaltonone.Whenyourlifeisontheline,equipmentsimplymustnotfail.Thesearethethreemostbasicsafetypointsregardingclimbingequipment:

SelectqualitygearapprovedforrockclimbingbytheUIAA.

Learnhowtouseeachitempracticebeforeyourlifedependsonit.

Takecareofyourclimbinggear.Retireanythingthatyouhavedoubtsabout.

3RockClimbingCorrectly

Movementoverrockcombinesthephysicalcomponentsofbalance,flexibility,strength,andendurancewiththetaskofsequentialproblemsolving.Practiceandmasteryofafewbasicclimbingprincipleswillenableyoutoexploretherockanddevelopyourpersonalstyleandrepertoireofmoves.

Rockclimbingalsodemandspoiseanddiscipline.Thereisnothingquitelikebeinghighonawindycrag,movingsmoothlyfromproblemtoproblem,workingtherockandtheprotection.Timeontherockwillyieldadegreeofcomfortandsensitivitythatwillenableclimbingtobecomemuchlikeacreativedanceforyou.

Thischapterfirstreviewsthefundamentalclimbingtechniquesusedforvarioustypesofrockfeatures.Laterinthechapter,thetechnicalaspectsofropedclimbingareintroduced.Thetechniquesinvolvedinmovingoverrockarebestpracticedanddevelopedthroughbouldering,wherethe

intricaciesofequipmentandinhibitionsarereduced.Sograbyourrockshoesandaspotter,andtryoutsomemovesontheboulders!

THEFOURMOVEMENTPRINCIPLES

Maintainthreepointsofcontactwiththerockwheneverpossible.Thiswillmaximizeyourbalanceandstability,likeatripodsteadiesacamera.Oneasierclimbsthiswillbeasimplematterofmovingonefootorhandatatime.However,ondifficultroutes,somehandholdsorfootholdsmaybeabsent,andyouwillbeforcedtogetbywithlessthanthreepointcontact.

Balanceoveryourfeet.Sincethelegsarenormallystrongerthanthearms,youshouldpositionasmuchweightaspossibleoveryourfeet.Thiswillminimizetheforcesonyourarms.Lookaroundconstantlyforfootholds,andconcentrateonpositioningyourbodytomaximizeyourweightoveryourfeet.

Learntosenseyourweighttransferfromcontactpointtocontactpointduringmovements.Beginnerclimbersoftenspeakof"fightinggravity"alimitingmisconception.Learntousegravity.Itisthesourceoffrictionthatkeepsyouontherock.Asyoumove,yourweightistransferredfromholdtohold.Asyoulearntofeelthis,youwillbeabletoanticipatehowgravitywillpullyouontoorintothenexthold.Thus,youcanpositionyourhandorfootaccordingly.Thisanticipationwillenableyoutoplanaseriesofprecise,efficientmovementsthroughtheroute'scrux.

Learntorestwithoutcomingdown.Fatiguecausesclimberstobecome"pumped,"andmanyfallsresult.Learningtorestontherockwillhelpyouresistfatigueandenableyoutoclimblonger.Whenholdingastaticpositionontherock,seehowmuchyoucanrelaxyourgripwithoutcomingoff.Trydifferentbodypositionsandcombinationsofholdstofindthebestresteveryfewmoves.Avoidpullingonholdsduringrests.Instead,hangfromastraightarmwhileyoulowerandshakeouttheother.Keepbreathing.Climbingshouldbeasaerobicasyoucanmakeit.

SAFETYTIPAlthoughyouwillnotusuallygoveryhighduringbouldering,youdohitthegroundwhenyoucomeofftherock.Attentiontoafewpointscanmakeboulderingsafer.

Clearawaylooserockanddebrisfromthelandingareabelowtherock.

Useanalertspottertohelpcontrolfallsandprotectyourheadandshoulders.

Iftheroutetakesyououtofyourspotter'sreach,setupatopropeanduseit.

FaceClimbing

Rockfacescomeinalltexturesandanglesanddemandthegreatestvarietyinhandandfootpositions.Thekeystosuccessonallbutthemostoverhangingfacesarebalanceandweighttransfer.Footworkandbodypositionarecritical.

UsingYourFeet

Footworkisthemostimportantaspectoffaceclimbing.Thetwobasicmethodsofstandingonfaceholdsaresmearingandedging.Therockwilldictatewhichtechniqueisbestforagivensituation.

Smearingismostcommonlyemployedonlowerangled,slabbyrockthatlacksdefiniteedgesorknobs.Thesoleoftheshoeatthebaseofthetoesis"smeared"ontoanindentation,roundedbump,orotherirregularity.Thismaximizesthesurfacecontactareabetweentheshoerubberandtherock.Weighttransferovertheplacedfootincreasesfrictionandholdingforce.

Smearingisalsousefulfortinymicroedgesonsteeperrock,asthesoleoftheshoeconformstotheedgecontours.Placeyourshoejustabovetheedge,thenallowittoslidedownandoverthehold.

Practicesmearingonavarietyofrocktexturesandangles.Lookforsubtleindentationsandfeaturesonwhichtotestvariousfootpositionsandbalancepoints.Remember,smearingworksbestwhenmostofyourweightispositionedoverthefoot.

Onsteepfaces,youwillneedtolookfordefinedholdsonwhichto"edge"theshoe.Edgingismostoftendonewiththeinsideofthefootatthebaseofthebigtoe.Thestrengthofthisareaofyourfootandtheinherentstiffnessofmodernrockshoesinthispartofthesoleprovidesurprisingsecurityonsharpholds.Someclimbingproblemsmaydictatethatyouedgewiththeoutsideofthefoot,justbackofthesmalltoe,orevenwiththepointofthetoeatechniquecalled"toeingin."Toeinginisimportantwhenclimbingpocketedsandstoneandlimestone,wherethelipofthepocketisusedasanedge.

FaceClimbing

Onlowerangledslopes,commonlycalledslabs,youshouldstandfairlyverticalrelativetothepullofgravity.Thiswillpositionyourhipsawayfrom

therockandyourweightdirectlyoveryourfeet.Yourupperbodymayleanforwardabittoallowhandcontact

withtherock,butthetendencyto''hug"therockshouldberesisted.Leaningtoofarinwillpitchyourweightforwardof

yourfeetandleadtoslips

Astheterrainbecomessteeper,youwillneedtobringthehipsandupperbodyclosertotherockandthebalancepointoveryourfeetwillbecomefiner.Itis

importanttokeepthehandsnearthelevelofyourshouldersorheadduringsteepfaceclimbing,asanextremelyhighreach

willpullyouintotherocktoomuch.

Occasionallyonverticalterrainyoucanleanawayfromthefaceusinggood,bomberhandholdstocreatecounterpressurebetweenyourfeetandthe

rock.Thisisparticularlyusefulwhenfootholdsaresparse.Makecertainthatyourhandholdsaresolid,and,because

thistechniqueisverystrenuous,movequicklytoamorebalancedstance.

Sustainedoverhangingrockwillpreventyoufrompositioningmuchofyourweightoveryourfeet.

Youmuststillworktomaintainfootcontact,however,toreducetheoverallloadonthearmsandprovideabaseforcounterpressure.Whennotmoving,hangonstraightarmstoplacemostoftheforceonyourskeletoninsteadof

themuscles.Thishelpsreducefatigue.

Foottechniquesforfaceclimbing:smearing(top),edging(bottomleft),tocingin(bottomright).

Aswithsmearing,positioningyourbodycorrectlyandplacingyourweightoveryourfeetarecriticalforeffectiveedging.Bothsmearingandedgingrelyonthefrictioncreatedwhenyoutransferyourweightoverthefoot.Practicebothtechniquesonavarietyofterraintodiscoverhowsmallarockfeatureyoucanstandonwithoutslipping.

Onsteepandoverhangingrock,afootoccasionallywillbeusedlikeanextrahandtogetapartialgriponahold.Onesuchtechnique,calledheelhooking,involveskickinguporouttoahold,hookingitwiththeheeloftheshoe,andpullingwiththeleguntilahandholdcanbereached.

Radicallysteepoverhangswilloftenrequireyouto"paw"aholdwiththefoot,justtokeepitontherockandtheweightofthelegoffthearms.Sincetherockistoosteepforyoutoplaceyourweightoverthefoot,youmustrelyonlegstrengthandcounterpressuretomaintainthenecessaryfriction.

Regardlessoftheterrain,learntoplaceyourfeetpreciselyonholds.Onceafootisset,avoidmovingitaboutontheholduntilyougointothenextmove.Ifyourlegbeginstoshakewhileholdingafootposition,aphenomenonknowntoclimbersas"sewingmachineleg,"loweryourheeltorelaxthelegmuscles.Preciseandefficientfootworkwilltakesomepracticetodevelop,butthatisthepurposeofbouldering.

UsingYourHands

Whileitmayseemthataviselikegripisessentialinclimbing,inmostsituationsthefingersaresimplyconfiguredtotheholdcontoursandthebodyispositionedtoenablegravitytopullthehandontotherock.Thelargermusclesoftheupperarmsandshoulders,combinedwiththeliftingactionofthelegs,arethenusedtopullthebodythroughthemove.

Theunderclinggrip(palmsup)ismoresecureasyoumoveyourfeethigher.

TypesofGrips

OpenGripIntheopengrip,thehandconformsto

theholdcontoursfrictionfromthefingerpadssuppliespurchase.Someholdshavepositiveincut

edgesthatthefingersbendaroundlikeahook.Theopengripistheleastinjuryproducingholdbecausethefinger

tendonsareusuallysparedseverestress.

ClingGrip("crimper")Theclinggripisusedonflattoppededgesor

sharpmicroedges.Onlythefingertipscontacttherock,andthefirstknuckleishyperextendedtoresistcollapseof

thefingerunderpressure.Whenpossible,thethumbshouldbewrappedacrossthehyperextendedknucklesasabrace.Although

thisgripisverystrong,whenusedonsmallholdsforextrememoves("crimping")itmakesthefingersvulnerabletotendoninjury.Thefingertips

canalsobelacerated,orgiven''flappers,"bysharprockedges.

WrapGripRoundedandknoblikeholdscanoftenbewrapped

bythefingersortheentirehand.Thisisoneofthemostsecuregripsduetothelargecontactsurfaceareaandgreater

muscleuse.Whenpossible,wrapsaredonewiththeouteredge(the"pinkie"side)ofthehandagainsttherock.

Thisusuallyallowsamorebalancedbodyposition.

PinchGripWhenthereisnoholdedgethatgravitycan

pullyourhandinto,youwillneedtousemuscleasthesourceofholdingforceandpinchthehold.Pinchgripsaremostusefulonsmallknobsandpebblelikeholds.Thestrongestpinchisoftenbetweenthethumbandsideoftheindexfinger.

Thereareinnumerableprecisehandandfingerconfigurations,anditwouldbesuperfluoustodescribealltheoptionsinthistext.Exploringtherocktodiscoverwhatworksbestispartoftheclimbingexperience.Thereare,however,fourbasichandpatterns,or"grips":theopengrip,thecling(or"crimper"),thewrap,andthepinchgrip.

Twoadditionalhandandarmtechniquesthatareveryusefularetheunderclingandthemantle.Theunderclingusesanupsidedownhold,suchasaflakeoroverhangedge,bygrippingwiththepalmupward.Pullingupandoutonthehold,usuallybyleaningthebodyoutfromtherock,providescounterpressureforthefeet.Thesecurityofanunderclinggetsbetterasyoumoveyourfeethigherhowever,thestressonthearmsincreasesaswell.

Themantleisusedtogainaledgeorflattoppedfeatureand,asthenameimplies,ismuchlikeclimbingontoafireplacemantleorcountertop.Withbothhandsontheledge,bringyourfeetuptohighholds.Now,hoistyourbodyuntilonehandcanbepositionedheeldowntopressthebodyfurtherupward.Whenyourbodyisupasfaraspossibleaboveyourhands,liftafoottotheledge.Lookforahandholdhigherontheface,andstanduponthe

Combiningamantlewiththearmandahighsteptogainaledge.

ledge.Mantlingisaverystrenuousmaneuver,and,whennogoodhandholdabovetheledgeisavailable,standingupmayseemlikebalancingonaflagpole.Wheneverpossible,itisbesttoavoidfulloutmantles.

CrackClimbing

Whilecracksmakeiteasytofindarouteyousimplyfollowthelinetheyoftenlackhorizontaledgestostanduponortograspwithyourhands.Thefourmovementprinciplesstillapplywhenclimbingcracks,butpurchaseforholdsmustcomefromavarietyof"jamming"techniquesforhandsandfeet.

Ifyouhavespentmostofyourtimehoningfaceclimbingskills,exposuretoasteepcrackcanseemforeignandparticularlystrenuousuntilthepropertechniquesbecomefamiliar.IexperiencedthisacutelyonaroutenamedSoleratDevil'sTowerNationalMonument.MypartnerandIhadspentthepreviousfourdaysclimbingknobbyfaceroutesintheNeedlesofSouthDakota,butnowwehungfromtworustyboltsandasolidSLCDinacrack,46metersabovetheledgewheretheropedclimbinghadbegun.Therockabovewassteepandfeatureless,exceptforasingle,narrowcrackthatslicedthenext30metersinastraightline.Themovesupthisfissurewouldrequirepurecrackclimbingskills.ThevariousfingerpinchandclinggripsthatwehadusedintheNeedleswouldnotapplyhere,sowedustedthebacksofourhandswithchalkandpreparedtojam!

Inthebestcrackclimbingcircumstances,afinger,hand,fist,toe,orfootisslottedjustaboveaconstrictioninthecrackandpulledorpusheddowntowedgeagainsttheconstriction.Inparallelsidedcracksthosewithoutconvenientconstrictionssometypeoftorque,cammingaction,orotherexpansionmustoccurtojamtheappendageinthecrack.

Cracktypesaredescribedaccordingtothepredominanthandtechniquethatthecracksizedictates.Ofcourse,climbershavedifferentsizedhands,whichdoesbecomeafactor,butforthemostparttheterminologyapplies.Thefourprimarytypes,inascendingsizeorder,arefingercracks,handcracks,fistcracks,andoffwidthcracks.Largercracksintowhichmostorallofyourbodywillfitarecalledchimneys.

FingerCracks

Fingercracksmakeforexcitingtechnicalclimbing.Theclassic"fingerlock"jaminvolvesplacingthefingersinthecrack,usuallythumbdown,andlockingtheknucklesaboveaconstriction.Whenthearmpullsdown,thetorqueonthehandcamsthefingerstightlyintothehold.Althoughthethumbdownpositionisusuallypreferable,thincracksmayonlyadmitthe

fingertipsofthepinkieandringfingers,inwhichcaseathumbuphandpositionisrequired.Whateverthesituation,trytogetasmanyfingersasdeeplyintothejamaspossible.

Thefootworkforfingercracksinvolvestoejamming.Thisiswhererockshoeswithnarrow,pointedtoesreallyperform.Thefootisturnedsidewayswiththebigtoeupandthekneeout,whilethetoeoftheshoeisplacedinthecrack.Thejamissetbyrotatingthekneeupwardandweightingthefoottocamtheshoeinthecrack.Searchoutthecrackcarefullyforgoodtoejamspots,asfingercrackswillnotoffermuchinthewayofspaceforthefeet.

Youcan"leapfrog"yourhandsupthecrackwhilemaintainingthethumbsdownorientationoryoucanshufflejamswithoutcrossingthehandsover.Oftenitisbesttojamonefootinthecrackwhiletheotherworksonfaceholdstothesideofthecrack.Practicewillenableyoutoworkwiththepersonalityoftherockandfindthemostefficientmovesandpositions.

Workingafingercrackwithonefootsmearingontheface.

Whenthecrackleanstooneside,thehandonthatsidewillusuallyleadinthethumbdownposition.Yourbodywillstayonthedownsideofthecrack,andthefootonthatsidewillprobablystayonthefacetoeithersmearoredgewhiletheoppositefootjamsthecrack.

HandandFistCracks

Handsizedcrackscanmakeforrapidupwardprogressassecurehandandfootjamsaresetoverandoverinrhythmicsuccession.Theclassichandjamissimilarto"shakinghands"withthecrack.Thehandisinserted,thumbupwithfingersstraight,thenthethumbisbroughttightlyacrossthepalmtowardthebaseofthepinkie.Itisthisthumbactionthatexpandsthehandagainstthesidesofthecracktosetthejam.Whenexecutedproperlyinanappropriatelysizedcrack,thehandjamisaboutassecureasclimbingholdsget.

Classichandandfootjamminginaverticalcrack.

Differentcrackwidthsrequiremodificationsofthebasichandjamtechnique.Thefingersmaybeflexedatthesecondorthirdknuckletoprovideanarchortentlikeconfigurationinwidercracks.Forjamsabovethehead,thehandmaybeinsertedthumbdownandtorquedintoasecurejam.

Aswithfingerjams,handjamsmaybeleapfroggedorshuffled.Ingeneral,athumbdownhandjamwillbesecurewhenplacedoveryourhead,butitlosespurchaseasyoumoveupandpast.Thethumbupjamismostsecureatfacelevelandbelow.

Footjamsaresecuredinthesamemannerastoejams.Turnthefootonitssidewiththekneeoutward,slottheshoeinthecrack,rotatethekneeupward,andstandupontheleg.Aswithhandjams,footjamsmaybeleapfrogged,oneovertheother,orshuffled.Donotsetfootjamstoodeeplyinthecrackorlegmovementwillbecompromised.Apositionthatacceptsthetoeandballofthefootusuallyprovidesmaximumsecurity.

Whenthecrackistoolargeforsecurehandjamming,thehandmayberotated45degreestoenableafistjam.Thefistisplacedintopositionfairlyrelaxed,thenflexedtoapplypressureagainstthesidesofthecrack.Fistjamsmaybeplacedstraightin,asifpunchingthecrack,orreversed,withthepalmfacingoutofthecrack.Thethumbispositionedeitheroutsidethefistoverthefingersortuckedintothepalm.Sincethereislessabilitytoexpandthehandinafistpositionthaninthehandjamposition,itisimportanttorecognizeslightconstrictionsandpinchesinthecrackcontoursabovewhichtoplacethefist.

OffWidthCracks

Climbingoffwidthcracksthosetoowideforfistjamsbuttoonarrowtochimneyisawkward,strenuouswork.Furthermore,thepropertechniqueseemsdifficulttomaster.Suchfissuresareoftenreferredtoas"awfulwidth."

Fortunately,fewmodernclimbingroutesinvolveoffwidthtechniquesincecontemporaryclimberstendtoavoidcracksthatrequireit.Historically,however,routesfollowednaturallines,cracks,andchimneysystems,andthemostdifficultoftheseinvolvedoffwidth.Youmaythereforefindshortorlongstretchesofoffwidthterrainonsomeoftheolder"classic"routes.

Offwidthcracksareclimbedsideways,withonefootandarminsidethecrack.andtheotherfootandarmontheoutside.Beforeyoulaunchupanoffwidth,youneedtodecidewhichdirectiontofaceasitisusuallyimpossibletoswitchwhileinthecrack.

Theinsidearmisusuallyinanarmbarpositionextendedintothecrackwiththepalmpressedforwardagainsttherockandtheelbowandupperarm

pressedbackagainsttheoppositesideofthecrack.Theinsidelegstrugglestofindsomecombinationofcounterpressurebetweenfootandkneeorkneeandhip.

Theoutsidelegmustprovidetheforcetomovethebodyupwardusingaheeltoejamorworkingoffedgesalongtheouterlip.Theoutsidehandcanbeusedhighorlow,pushingappropriatelytohelpkeepyouinthecrack.

Occasionally,thecrackmaynarrowdowntowherethehandscanbestackedforasecurejamuntilthelegsaremovedup.Ofcourse,youwillneedtogetsometypeofgoodholdorjamforthelegs,oryourhandswillbestuck.

ProtectYourHands

Learningcrackclimbingcanbeapainfulexperienceasyoustruggletodevelopefficientjammingtechniques.Manyclimberstapethebacksoftheirhandswithclothathletictapetoprotectfromabrasions.Todoso,firstlayafewstripsoftapeacrossthebackofthehandtoformtheinitialpad.Holdthehandinaslightlycuppedposition,flexedabitforwardatthewrist.Beginningonthepinkiesideofthehand,bringastripfromthewristareadiagonallyacrossthebackofthehand,aroundtheindexfinger,andbacktothewrist.Repeatthisfromthethumbsideofthewrist,acrossthehand,andaroundthepinkiefingerandback.Finally,wrapacoupleofcompleteturnsaroundthewristtolocktheendsofthediagonalwraps.Avoidmakingthewrapstootightly:Circulationcanbeimpededandmobilityofthewristandhandlimitedbythetape.

ClimbingChimneys

Whenthecrackisbigenoughtoaccommodateyourentirebody,itiscalledachimney.Chimneytechniquesvaryaccordingtothesizeofthegap,butascendingalwaysinvolvessometypeofcrossbodypressureagainstthesidesofthechimney.

Narrowchimneysareusuallyclimbedusingpressurebetweenthekneesandback.Theflexedkneesarepressedagainsttheforwardwall,whilethefeetandbackarepressedagainstthebackwall.Maximizefootfrictionbykeepingthetoespointeddownwardandthesolesflatagainsttherock.Thehandspressforwardtostabilizetheupperbackasthebodyisratchetedupward.

Inwiderchimneys,crossbodypressureisaccomplishedbetweenthefeetandback.Extendedlegspressthefeetagainsttheforwardwall,andthearmsremaindownwardwiththehandspressedagainstthebackwall.Amoveis

madebypressingdownandbackwiththearmsenoughtoreleasethebackpressure,asthetorsoslidesslightlyupward.Onefootmaykickbackagainsttherearwalltoaidinpushingthetorsoupward.Forthenextupwardmove,thisfootisextendedtotheforwardwallandtheoppositefootkickedback.

Climbnarrowchimneysusingpressurebetweenthekneesandtheback.

CounterpressureTechniques

Thecrossbodypressureusedinchimneytechniquesisaformofcounterpressurewhereforceappliedinonedirectioncreatesanotherforceintheoppositedirection.Counterpressuretechniquescanbeusedwhenthe

forcesyoumustapplytoholdsarenotdirectlyinlinewithgravity."Stemming"withthelegstocreatecounterpressurebetweentwolateralholdswilloftenyieldasecure,evenrestful,position.Classicstemmingisthetechniqueofchoiceforbridgingthespacebetweenthewallsofaninsidecorner.

Stemmingtoprovidecounterpressureforthefeet.

Faceholdsmayalsobestemmedtoprovideastancewhilehandholdsaresearchedout.Comingoutofastemonfaceholdsusuallyrequiresyoutorockyourbodyweightupintoabalancedpositionoveronefoot.Thismoveiscalledarockupandisfollowedbyasteptothenextholdbytheoppositefoot.

Somechimneysaresowidethatyoumuststemcompletelyacrossthegapwiththelefthandandfootononewallandtherighthandandfootonthe

other.Thecounterpressureproducedbythisspreadeaglepositionkeepsyouontherockwhileyourhandsandfeetshuffleupwardinsmall,carefulincrements.

Stemmingtechniquesarenotlimitedtosupportpositions.Occasionally,yourpositionontherock,particularlyonoverhangingfaces,willproduceatendencyforyourbodytorotateorswingtooneside.Thissocalled''barndoor"effectcanbepreventedbystemmingafootouttothesidetoblocktheswing.Youcanalsouseacounterbalancetechniquetocorrectthebarndooreffectby"flagging"onelegofftherock,acrossyourmidline,andbehindyoursupportingleg.

Flaggingalegtooffsetthebarndooreffect.

Offsetcracksandcracksincornersareoften"liebacked"usingcounterpressurebypullingwiththearmswhilepressingwiththefeetintheoppositedirection.Liebackingrequiresthatyoumaintaingoodhandcontactwiththerocksinceitistheleanoffyourarmsthatprovidesthecounterpressureforthefeet.Handsandfeetmaybeleapfroggedorshuffledasyoumoveupward.Liebackingisanotherstrenuoustechnique,butyoucanminimizefatiguebymaintainingstraightarms,thusplacingmuchoftheforceontheskeleton.

Pureliebacktechniqueupacornercrack

TipsforClimbingOverhangs

1.Althoughyoumaybeunabletopositionyourweightdirectlyoveryourfeetonoverhangingrock,footworkisstillimportant.Lookforedges,placestohookaheel,andotherfeaturesthatcanbeusedtotaketheweightofyourlegsoffyourarms.

2.Oftenyoucanworkyourfeetuphighbetweenmoves,wheretheycanhelppushyouintopositionforthenextreach.

3.Whenreachingforahold,youmayneedtopullinquicklywiththeoppositearmandhandclosetotheshouldertolockoffasyoumakethenextreach.Thisisastrenuousmaneuver,sotakeaimonthenextholdandmovequickly.Fromsomepositionsyoucanreduceoverallarmstressbykeepingthesupportarmstraight,insteadofpullingintoalockoff,andpushingthebodyupwardwiththelegs.

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4.Lookandfeelforopportunitiestousecounterpressure,flagging,andcontrolledbutdynamiclungestoavoidstrenuouspullups.Placingtheoutsideedgeofonefootonaholdandtwistingthebodyintotherockonthatsidemaysometimesenableyoutoreachahighholdwiththeinsidearmatechniquecalled"twistlocking."

5.Hangonstraightarmswhileinstaticpositionstoletyourskeleton,insteadofyourmuscles,takemostofyourweight.

Usinga"twistlock"toreachahighholdonoverhangingrock.

ProtectingYourselfwhileClimbingHowtoSetUpAnchors

Ifmovementovertherockisthoughtofasthe"art"ofrockclimbing,protectingyourselfwithaharness,rope,andanchorsisthe"science,"althoughagooddealofcreativityisinvolvedhereaswell.Learningthepropertechniquesforropedclimbingisaseriousmattersincemostacci

dentsinvolvementalerrorsmadebyclimbers.Theuseofthefigure8followthroughknottotietheropeintotheclimbingharnesswascoveredinChapter2.Thischapterconcentratesontheanchorsystemanditsintegrationwiththeropetoprotecttheclimber.

Ofprimaryimportanceinropedclimbingisestablishingsolid,failsafeanchors.Inleadclimbing,theprimaryanchorisforthebelayer,thepersonwhomanagestheropeandprotectstheclimberduringfalls.Mosttopropesetupswillinvolvetwoanchorsystems,oneforthebelayerandonefortherope.

UsingNaturalAnchors

Thebestanchorsareoftennaturalobjectsandfeatures,suchastrees,boulders,androckhorns.Oneadvantageofnaturalanchorsisthattheyareoftenmultidirectionalorabletotakeforcesfromseveraldirections.Whenanchorsmustbedirectionalandcounterforcesinonedirectiononly,youmustcarefullypredictthemostlikelydirectionthatforcewillbeappliedinthesystem.Beforeusinganaturalanchor,checktomakecertainitissolidbyvigorouslytuggingandpushingonit.Someclimbersusethe"sixbysix"rulefortrees:sixfeettallbysixinchesthickatthebasehowever,thisisratherarbitrary.Ofmoreconcerniswhetherthetreeislivingandfirmlyrooted.

Naturalanchorsareconnectedtotheropeorclimberusingsewnortiedwebbingrunnersandcarabiners.Therunnerisdoubledorgirthhitchedaroundtheanchor.Inthecaseoftiedrunners,thewebbingloopmaybetieddirectlyaroundtheanchorwithawaterknottoalloweasieradjustmenttothecorrectlength.Placetherunnerclosetotheanchor'sbasetominimizetorqueeffectswhichcouldbreakoruproottheanchor.

UsingArtificialAnchors

Whetheryouaresettingartificialanchorsforatopropesystemorworkingtogetintermediateprohalfwayupasteepfaceroute,theprinciplesofusingprotectiongear,called"chockcraft"bysome,arethesame.Youshouldtaketimetolearnthecorrectmethodsforplacingartificialanchordevicesandpracticeuntilyouarefamiliarandefficientwiththegear.Settinguptopropeanchorsystemswithartificialgearenablesyoutolearnthebasicsinamorerelaxedsettingthanyou'llencounterwhenstrungoutonaleadwithyourforearmspumping.

ChockcraftBasics

Anartificialanchorisonlyasgoodastherockitcontacts.Inspecttheplacementsiteandavoidsuspicious,crumblytextures,looseflakesorblocks,anddirty,vegetatedslots.

Selectthesizeandshapethatbestfitsthecontoursoftheplacementspotintherock.

Usethelargestsizethatwillfitappropriately.

Placethepiecesuchthatcontactareawiththerockismaximized.

Orienttheslingorcableinthedirectionoftheanticipatedforce.

PlacingNuts,Hexcentrics,andTriCams

Asartificialanchorsgo,nutsarehardtobeatduetotheirsimpledesignandoverallstrength.Thestandardnutistaperedontwosidesandwillfittwosizesofcrack.Itisalwaysbesttoplaceanutlengthwisetoprovidemaximumcontactarea.

Somenutsarecurvedslightlyandhave"left"and"right"orientationsforyoutochoosebetweenasthecrackcontoursdictate.Findthebestorientationtomaximizecontactwiththerock,and,inthecaseofaparallelsidedcrack,assureawedgewiththreegoodpointsofcontact.

Wheneverpossible,placeanutwherethecracknotonlypinchesoffinthedirectionofthemostlikelyforce,butalsopinchesintheoutwarddirectionthishelpstokeepthepieceinthecrack.Agentletughelps"set"thenutinposition.

Itisimportanttoextendtheclipendofwirednutswithaquickdraworrunnertoprovideaflexiblelinktotherope.Adirectsidewayspullonthestiffcablecantorquethenutandliftitoutofthecrack.Itisascarysightfortheleadertolookbelowandseeherlastnutslidingdowntheropetowardthebelayer.

Hexcentricsareabitmoredifficulttoplacecorrectlythannuts,but,onceset,arestronganchors.Hexesoffertwoplacementorientationsintheprimarylateralpositionandathirdwhenplacedendwiseinacrack.Theprinciplesinvolvedingoodnutplacementapplyforhexesaswell.Theunevensidesofahexandtheorientationofthecordcanprovidesomepassivecammingforcewhenthepieceisforceloaded.Thiscammingactionisobtainedfrombothprimaryplacementpositions,butnotfromtheendwiseposition.

TriCams

TheunusualshapeoftheTriCamenablesittofitsomespotsinaccessibletoothergear.TherearethreemodesofplacementforTriCams:wedgedaboveaconstrictionlikeanutwiththeslingthreadedbetweenthespinerails

Nutsmaybeplacedintwoorientation,buttheplacementontheleftispreferred.

Ahexcentricplacedendwise(left)andinapassivecammingorientation(right).

ATriCamplacedasawedge(left)andasapassivecam(right)

SLCDsarestrongestwhenthecamsareevenlysetat10to50percentfulldeployment.

forpassivecammingactionandpokedintosolutionpockets,thencammedbehindthelip.

Whenconfiguredasapassivecam,thefulcrumpointshouldbeplacedinanindentationorbehindabump,withthespinerailsagainsttheothersideofthecrack.Allthreepointsmustbeincontactwiththerock,andthepiecemustbesetwithatug.BewareofunstableTriCamplacement,andconsiderextendingtheslingwithaquickdraw,asasidewayspullcanrattlethepieceloose.

UsingSpringLoadedCammingDevices(SLCDs)

Springloadedcammingdevicesaredesignedtofitparallelsidedcracksthatoffernoconstrictionforwedginganutorhexcentric.ThespringloadedcamsprovidefrictionthatholdstheSLCDinplace,whiletheirshaperesultsinatighterwedgewhentheunitisforceloaded.AlthoughSLCDsareoftentoutedas"simpletouse"and"failsafe,"thereareseveralimportantpointstounderstandaboutthem.

Mostreported"failures"ofSLCDsaretheresultoftheunitsskiddingoutofthecrack.Insoftsandstone,SLCDshavebeenknowntoskidseveralincheswhenseverelyloaded.AlwaysconsiderthequalityoftherockinwhichyouareplacingaSLCD.Iftherockissoftorloose,bewary.

IftheactionoftheropecausestheSLCDtowigglebackandforth,itcan"walk"deeperintoacrack,makingretrievalimpossible.Youreducethistendencybyextendingtheplacementwithaquickdraworrunner.

TheindependentspringloadedcamsonaSLCDenabletheunittoconformtoirregularcrackcontours,buttheunitmaynotbeasstrongwhenthecamsareoffsetinthismanner.ThestrongestSLCDplacementsarethosewherethecamsareevenlysetat1050percentdeploymentandthestemorcableisalignedwiththemostlikelydirectionofanticipatedforce.Acamistoosmallforthecrack,anditsstrengthandstabilitywillbelow,ifitisnearlyfullydeployed,or"tippedout."Ontheotherhand,ifyouforceaunitwithnearlyfullycontractedcamsintoacrack,itislikelytogetpermanentlystuck.

SettingUpaTopRopeAnchorSystem

Thegeneralruleforanchoringtheropefortopropedclimbingistoconnectaminimumofthreeindependentanchorsatthetopofthecrag.Runnersareusedtoextendtheanchorpointsovertheedgeoftheclifftopreventtheropefromabradingoversharprock.Themiddleoftheropeisconnectedtotheserunnersbyaminimumoftwocarabiners,andtheropeendshangtotheground.Inthissetupthebelayermanagestheropefromgroundlevel.

Afterhikingupatrailorscramblingovereasyterraintothetopofthecrag,determinethebestlocationfortheanchorbinerstoextendovertheedge.Normallytheanchorbinersareplacedattheendoftheroute.Whentheroutefollowsafairlystraightverticalline,theropewillalwaysbedirectlyabovetheclimberandfallswillberelativelyinconsequential.Iftheroutetraversestotheside,andtheropelineisatanangle,theclimberwillbeexposedtoapotentiallydangerousswingifshefalls.Thisiscalleda"bellringer"andshouldbeconsideredwhenlocatingtheupperanchors.

Athreeanchortopropesysteminvolving(lefttoright)atreetiedoffwithwebbing,alongrunnergirthhitchedtoatree,andaSLCDinacrack.

Lookaroundforconvenient,bombproofnaturalanchorsandplacementpossibilitiesforartificialanchors.Onceyouhaveestablishedtheanchorpoints,usewebbingrunnerstoextendtheanchorsoverthecliffedge.Ifasinglerunnermustbeusedtoconnecttwoseparateanchors,useaselfequalizingsliderbyputtingatwistononeendofthedoubledrunnerbeforeclippingthebiners.Avoiddirectingtherunnersoveranysharpedgesthatcouldcutordamagethewebbing.Ifsharpedgesareunavoidable,youcanpadtherunnerwithclothingorapack.

Clipaminimumoftwocarabinersthroughallanchorrunnerstoaccepttherope.Atleastoneofthesecarabinersmustbealockingtype.Wheneverpossible,usetwolockingbinersattheropeconnection.

Whenthecarabinersareplacedintopositionovertheedge,theextensionrunnersfromtheanchorsmustcometogetherattheropeconnectionsuchthatallanglesbetweenrunnersarelessthan120degrees.Limittheanglesto90

Usingasinglerunnerasaselfequalizingslidertoconnecttwoanchorpoints.

degreeswheneverpossible.Keepingtheseanglessmallensuresthatnosingleanchorwillhavetoabsorbthetotalforcegeneratedinafall.

Oncethemiddleoftheropeisclippedinandalllockingbinerssecurelylocked,placethesystemovertheedgesuchthatthegateofthelockingbinerfacesout,awayfromtherock,withthegateopeningpositioneddownward.Thesecondcarabinershouldbeplacedwithitsgateinoppositiontotheprimarylockingbiner.

InReview

Doublecheckthefollowingpointsconcerningconnectiontheanchorstotheropecarabiners:

Wheneverpossible,useindependentrunnerstoextendandconnecttheanchorstotherope.Thisbuildsredundancyintothesystemshouldonerunnerfail.

Equalizethetensionfromallanchorconnectionstothedoubledbinersthatwillaccepttherope.

Ensurethatnoanglebetweenanchorextensionsexceeds120degreesanglesof90degreesorlessarepreferred.

Avoidplacingcomponentsoftheanchorandextensionsystemoversharprockedges.Usepadswherenecessary.

Beforetossingtheropedown,makecertainthatitcontainsnoknotsthatcouldgetsnaggedinacrack.Coilitinonehand,andshout''rope"towarnpeoplebelowthatit'scomingdown.Aimwhenyouthrowtheropetoavoidtossingyourlifelineintodirt,poolsofwater,orthetopsoftrees.

Oncetheropeishung,checkthattheanchorextensionsareatequaltensionsothatforceswillbedirectedtoallanchorsevenly.Youmayneedtoshortenorextendsomerunnersappropriately.

Doafinalchecktoensurethatthecarabinersarepositionedcorrectlyandthatalllockingbinersarelocked.

Whensettinguptopropeanchors,takeyourtimetoestablishabombproofsystem.Ifyoumustworkclosetotheedgewhileriggingthesystem,putonaharnessandtieintoananchor.Doublecheckallknotsandconnectionsbeforehikingdowntoenjoytheroute.

Topropedroutescanbebelayedfromthetopoftherockbyarrangingthelengthoftheanchorextensionstoplacethebelayeratthecliffedge,facingoutward.Theanchorcarabinersareclippedintothebelayer'sharness

waistbeltandlocked.Theanchorextensionsshouldbeontensionwhenthebelayerisinpositionlestafalljerkhimovertheedge.

Whilethissystemprovidesthebelayerwithanexcitingperchandenableshimtotopropelongroutes,itdoeshaveafewdisadvantages.Theropewillusuallypassovertheedgeoftherockandcouldbedamagedbyafallorwhenloweringaclimber.Oftenthebelayerwillbeunabletoseetheclimber,socommunicationmaybedifficult.Also,morecareisrequiredwhenexchangingplacesbetweenclimberandbelayeratthetopofthecragthanwhenontheground.Whentheclimbingrouteisshortenoughtoallowtheropetobedoubled,thegroundbelayisthestandardofchoicetoday.

Belaying

Tobelaymeanstomakesafeorsecure.Inrockclimbing,thebelayermanagestheropeandprotectstheclimberifafalloccurs.Thebelaysystemconsistsofthreecomponents:thebelayer,therope,andtheanchors.Theintegrityofthesecomponentsmustbemaintained,sincefailureofanyonecomponentwillusuallyleadtodisaster.

Intopropeclimbing,thesecurelyanchoredbelayerconnectstheropethroughabelaydeviceattachedtohisclimbingharnesswithalockingcarabiner.Thebelayerthentakesinropeastheclimberascendsorfeedsitoutiftheclimbermovesdown.Oncetherouteiscompleted,ortheclimberwishestodescendforarest,thebelayerslowlyfeedsoutropeloweringtheclimbertotheground.Ifafalloccurs,itisthebelayer'sresponsibilitytoeffectivelyarrestit.

SettingUptheBelay

rock climbing

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