rostock printer kit

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Rostock Printer Kit Regular Price: $189.55 MakerGeeks Price: $79.5 Availability: Usually ships in 5-7 business days MakerGeeks Description Rostock is a delta robot 3D printer prototype, built in 2012 by Johann in Seattle, USA. Several variations have taken root, including: Kossel, Rostock Mini, RostockMax, Rostock Prisma, Cerberus, and ProStock. Maker Geeks.com prints each Rostock 3D Printer Kit directly from the Rostock GitHub repository so you are sure to get the most up

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Page 1: Rostock Printer Kit

Rostock Printer Kit

Regular Price: $189.55

MakerGeeks Price: $79.5

Availability: Usually ships in 5-7 business days

MakerGeeks Description

Rostock is a delta robot 3D printer prototype, built in 2012 by Johann in Seattle, USA. Several variations have taken root, including: Kossel, Rostock Mini, RostockMax, Rostock Prisma, Cerberus, and ProStock.

Maker Geeks.com prints each Rostock 3D Printer Kit directly from the Rostock GitHub repository so you are sure to get the most up to date parts for your Rostock 3D Printer!

Each Rostock 3D Printer Kit comes with the following: 3x Motor Ends 3x Carriages

Page 2: Rostock Printer Kit

3x Idler Ends

1x Platform

1x Penholder

12x Jaws

12x Joints

3x Endstops

1x Airtripper V3.0 Bowden Extruder (this is the newest version just updated 12/30/2012!!)

MakerGeeks.com can also print your Rostock 3D Printer Kit parts in ANY color you like.. all at no extra charge and don't forget shipping is always fast and FREE!

Accessories

Get the rest of your 3D Printer Kit parts in this awesome MakerGeeks.com3D Printer booster pack...

3D Printing Facts, Tips, Tricks & Other Bottom of the Page Nuggetsfrom MakerGeeks.com

What Temperature to 3D Print your Filament at?

While each 3D Printer is different and you will need to play around with the temps to get the best print here are some starter temps for you; these are all temperature profiles that are verified and confirmed print temps on the MakerGeeks.com 3D Printers (9 different machines from pre-built D3 and D4 to our own DIY custom Reprap printers) with the actual filament we sell to you... so they will get you 99% of the way there!

PLA Glow in the Dark PLA ABS Glow in the Dark ABS

195c - 210c 210c - 215c 230c - 235c 250c

Page 3: Rostock Printer Kit

LayBrick LayWoo - D3 PET Taulman 618 Nylon

175c - Smooth210c - Rough

165c (light colored wood)210c (very dark colored wood)

210c 260c

EcoFlex PLA Taulman 645 Nylon

210c 265c

How do I get my filament to stick and STAY stuck?

This one is a multi-faceted answer but here are the basics:

1. Your print bed has to be level!! I mean, spend some time on this one... if it isn't level like a... well... like something that's really level - then your print won't stick and it won't come out looking right.

2. Next... CLEAN, CLEAN, then RE CLEAN, have a sandwich and a soda-pop and then CLEAN again... use acetone and a lint free towel to make sure your print surface is clean and free from oils and dirt.

3. If you are having a hard time printing on glass try using some Kapton tape as that will give you a little better stick

4. If you have a heated print surface... TURN IT ON!! Even when the filament used might not call for it, I always turn on my heat bed (who doesn't like a warm bed!!); even if it's just 40c it will really help. For PLA normally you'll want about 60c and for ABS you'll want 110c

5. For ABS 3D Printing room temperature really matters... you need to keep your entire build warm; so if you can't print out in a warm room try putting a box over the printer to keep that build area as warm as possible.

6. Try making "ABS Juice" - just add some scrap ABS filament to a bottle of acetone and let it dissolve and then use that to clean your print surface as normal; the dissolved ABS will give your printer extra STICK OR you can use "Aqua-Net Super Hold" hair spray (must be this brand to work right)... just clean your board as always and then lightly spray the Aqua-Net on the print board and print away (this method is my favorite as it seems to work best for me!)

7. KEEP trying!! You'll get it and once you do have it dialed in then you have it forever... each printer is different; make sure you make notes of what works and what doesn't for each filament you use and each printer you have. So, in the future when you want to print out that EPIC "Yogi Bear" figurine in MakerGeeks.com Blue you know what to set up your GCODE for.

What is the main differences between PLA and ABS 3D Printer Filament?

Page 4: Rostock Printer Kit

The main difference between PLA filament and ABS filament is that ABS is produced from fossil fuels and PLA is derived from biological resources, which makes PLA plastic biodegradable. When it comes to 3D printing the key differences between ABS and PLA are:

PLA is a rigid liquid and ABS is a crystallized liquid, meaning that when heated ABS transits slowly from a gel to liquid and PLA transits direct from solid to liquid.

ABS is more flexible and PLA is more solid, meaning when stressed PLA will snap sooner.

PLA is more glossy looking consumable than ABS (see photos when selecting your material).�

Wow, you have a 1kg spool of filament... SO What! How much actual filament is that??

Big question of the day is... how long is a spool of 3D Printing Filament!? Hummmmm, I think even Blinky the wise old MakerGeeks.com owl might have a hard time with that question but never fear... we have the answer!!

1/kg Spool PLA 1.75mm PLA 3mm ABS 1.75mm ABS 3mm

302,000.00mm 120,192.30mm 245,000.00mm 147,732.30mm

... and what does that mean to me and you!! Well, check this out... if you are printing with 3.00mm filament for a iPhone case you need about 2,700mm of filament; for a EPIC Starship Enterprize Model you'll need about 12,000mm of 3D Filament and for a full Kossel 3D Printer Kit we normally use about 50,000mm of filament. Another way to look at it according to MakerBot is that 1 spool of 3D Filament produces about 392 full sized chess pieces. Whoa... that's a lot of chess!!

Page 5: Rostock Printer Kit