rwaf skin problems in rabbits

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Surface attraction: Skin problems in rabbits Luckily, most rabbit skin problems are not particularly serious. However, they need prompt veterinary attention, not only to save unnecessary discomfort to the rabbit, but also because some are zoonotic (can be transmitted to humans). Moulting Moulting is normal for rabbits. A twice yearly moult is most common, although some rabbits may moult more frequently and some (particularly house rabbits), seem to moult almost constantly. There are a couple of moult related problems rabbit owners should be aware of, apart from the usual grumble of finding rabbit hair in every nook and cranny of the house! Many moulting rabbits have a noticeable "tide mark", and if you blow into the fur at the moult line the skin appears dark in colour where the new hairs are growing through. Some of the long or fluffy-coated breeds may even develop transient bald patches during their moult. All this is perfectly normal. Moulting rabbits require daily grooming to reduce the amount of hair passing through the gut. Constant access to hay is vital to keep the guts moving normally. Be alert to signs of a sluggish digestive system - droppings that are getting smaller and dry, or strung together with hair, should ring alarm bells. If you find them, but bunny is behaving normally, try and encourage them to eat more hay and grass to keep the fibre throughout at a high level and encourage the rabbit to move around more since activity will help with gastrointestinal speed. However, if your rabbit is subdued in any way he may be developing gastro-intestinal stasis (gut slowing) which needs urgent veterinary attention. For more information on GI stasis, read our article on gut emergencies in pet rabbits.

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  • Surface attraction: Skin problems in rabbits

    Luckily, most rabbit skin problems are not particularly serious.However, they need prompt veterinary attention, not only tosave unnecessary discomfort to the rabbit, but also becausesome are zoonotic (can be transmitted to humans).

    MoultingMoulting is normal for rabbits. A twice yearly moult is most common,although some rabbits may moult more frequently and some(particularly house rabbits), seem to moult almost constantly.There are a couple of moult related problems rabbit owners shouldbe aware of, apart from the usual grumble of finding rabbit hair inevery nook and cranny of the house!Many moulting rabbits have a noticeable "tide mark", and if you blowinto the fur at the moult line the skin appears dark in colour wherethe new hairs are growing through. Some of the long or fluffy-coatedbreeds may even develop transient bald patches during their moult.All this is perfectly normal.Moulting rabbits require daily grooming to reduce the amount of hairpassing through the gut. Constant access to hay is vital to keep theguts moving normally. Be alert to signs of a sluggish digestivesystem - droppings that are getting smaller and dry, or strungtogether with hair, should ring alarm bells. If you find them, butbunny is behaving normally, try and encourage them to eat more hayand grass to keep the fibre throughout at a high level and encouragethe rabbit to move around more since activity will help withgastrointestinal speed. However, if your rabbit is subdued in anyway he may be developing gastro-intestinal stasis (gut slowing)which needs urgent veterinary attention. For more information on GIstasis, read our article on gut emergencies in pet rabbits.

  • The moulting process can get "stuck" usually on the flanks, justabove the tail, and on the tummy. Use a cat moulting comb toremove the dead undercoat.

    RingwormRingworm (dermatophytosis) is not a worm at all, but a fungalinfection. Trichophyton mentagrophytes and Microsporum canis arethe species that are found on rabbits.Ringworm gets its name from the ring shaped lesions seen on theskin of infected humans. In rabbits, ringworm causes hair loss andcrusty lesions that are usually itchy and found around the eyes, noseand extremities (e.g.toes). . Ringworm must be differentiated fromother causes of scabs and sores, such as ordinary wounds.Ringworm can be treated in two ways. The first option is antifungalointment applied directly to the affected area. Secondly, antifungalmedicine can be given by mouth. This works by becomingincorporated into the developing hair so that the fungus cannotsurvive. Treatment may take several weeks.Ringworm is a zoonosis (a disease that can be transmitted fromanimal to human) so care should be taken when handling an infectedrabbit until the lesion has healed. If you think you may have caughtringworm from your rabbit then you will need to book an appointmentwith your GP for treatmentRingworm can be transmitted by direct contact with an infectedanimal, or contact with an item (e.g. grooming brush, bedding) thatis contaminated with the spores from an infected animal. Theincidence of infection varies with geographical area and environment.Young animals and those under stress (e.g.; overcrowding, highhumidity, poor sanitation, illness etc) are often at an increased riskof developing ringworm.It is possible to diagnose ringworm through several different

  • methods. A popular but not always accurate way to diagnose thedisease is through the use of a specialised black light called aWood's lamp. However, it is estimated that up to half of the mostcommon species of M. canis do not fluoresce, and T. mentagrophytesdoes not fluoresce, so this is not always a good diagnostic tool inrabbits.The best and most accurate way to identify a ringworm infection isby collecting scales and crusts from the lesion and performing aculture. There are special culture mediums designed specifically foridentifying ringworm infections. Your vet will be able to arrange thisfor you.

    Cheyletiella mitesCheyletiella parasitovorax is probably the most common skin problemin rabbits. It is a non-burrowing mite that is just visible to the nakedeye, so is sometimes known as the walking mite or walkingdandruff since you can often see them moving.Many rabbits carry the mite with no clinical signs. Problems andinfestations occur when the rabbit is unable to keep the mitesnumbers under control, which can be for a variety of reasons. If yourrabbit has any condition that restricts their ability to groom (dentalproblem, arthritis, sore hocks, poor balance, obesity), or during otherillnesses when their immune system is under more strain, or at timesof stress (bonding, loss of a companion, house move, sudden changein environmental temperature etc) check particularly carefully formites and seek veterinary advice about tackling the mites and theunderlying problem/s.The hallmark of Cheyletiella infection is areas of dense, flaky,encrusted skin particularly on the back, either above the tail, in thenape of the neck or down the spine, although occasionally it canbecome much more extensive.

  • The sources of Cheyletiella infection are often debated by thecommon consensus is that most rabbits have low grade infestationsthat are not detectable until either something triggers the mitepopulation to flare up from time to time, or the rabbit can no longerkeep the mite population in check by effective grooming. Cheyletiellamites can travel on hay, and can potentially act as a Myxomatosisvector.Cheyletiella infestations can be treated with a course of Ivermectininjections given at 7 to 10 day intervals and repeated for 3 -5 weeksdepending upon the severity. Spot On topical Ivermectin treatmentsare also available. It is important to finish the course of treatmenteven if the condition seems to have disappeared. AlthoughIvermectin isn't licensed for use in rabbits, it has been widely usedfor a number of years without any reported problems, and can beused under the veterinary Cascade regulations.Cheyletiella can affect humans, especially those with compromisedimmune systems. If you are worried you should speak to your GP.Cleaning of the rabbits environment, consisting of removing andchanging all substrate, washing bedding etc is also recommendedafter each Ivermectin treatment.

    Fur mitesLeporacus gibbus (formerly called Listrophorus gibbus) is a differentmite to Cheyletiella, although it is also a non-burrowing mite andcan just about be seen with the naked eye.The empty eggs can be seen attached to the hair shafts, much likelouse eggs, and even persist after treatment has killed the livemites.In severe infections were clinical signs are apparent; these mayinclude fur loss and an abnormal moulting pattern. The treatment isIvermectin injections or spot on treatments..

  • Ear mitesPsoroptes cuniculi is responsible for ear mite infestations in rabbits.Sometimes this is referred to as ear canker.The condition is highly contagious and generally spread throughrabbit-to-rabbit contact, although environmental transmission ispossible.Initially the only clinical symptom may be excessive head shaking orear scratching, but as the mites multiply and spread up the ear ontothe pinna, the crusts become noticeable.By this stage the rabbit is often extremely itchy and irritated.Sometimes rabbits will scratch their head and ears to the point ofself-trauma, making them bleed.Secondary bacterial infections of the skin can occur if the condition isleft untreated, and often the infection can spread and invade themiddle and inner ear resulting in vestibular disease (head tilt,nystagmus (eye rolling) and loss of balance etc).Ear mites require treatment by a vet. This will consist of Ivermectininjections or spot on Selamectin to kill the mites. If a secondarybacterial infection is present then antibiotics may also be prescribed.The condition is often very painful, so non-steroidalanti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), such as meloxicam, are alsoprescribed.You should never attempt to pick off the crusts, since this will beimmensely painful and damage the delicate skin on the rabbits ears.

    FleasThe most common flea found on rabbits is Spillopsyllyus cuniculi (theEuropean rabbit flea) which is a common vector for Myxomatosis. Thecat flea (Ctenocephalides felis) is also frequently found on petrabbits.

  • Common signs which you may notice include black flecks in the fur,which when dampened and placed onto a wet piece of cotton wool,will turn red. These are the flea droppings, which are dried bloodfrom where the fleas suck the hosts blood. It is uncommon to seelive fleas unless the infestation is in an advanced stage.You may also observe bald patches, which may appear irritated andscabby if the rabbit is scratching at the area.Fleas are rarely life-threatening unless the rabbit is very young orsmall, or has a substantial infestation, since anaemia has thepotential to occur.The main concern with fleas is that they are also a vector forMyxomatosis (have the potential to transfer the infection from onerabbit to another). For this reason, all rabbits must be kept up todate with their Myxomatosis vaccination.If you have dogs and cats within your household, then prophylactic(preventative) flea prevention treatment should be implemented atall times, and all wild rabbits must be kept out of gardens and awayfrom pet rabbits.Products containing Imidacloprid are licensed, effective and deemedsafe to use on rabbits. Flea powders, sprays, shampoos, etc., arentgenerally effective and do little to get rid of the infestation since theeggs of the adult fleas will hatch out after the rabbit has beentreated, and the infestation will continue. Products containingFipronil (commonly Frontline) must never be used on rabbits, sincedeaths have been attributed to these.Where appropriate, other products, containing avermectin drugs (e.g.Selamectin and Ivermectin) may be prescribed by your vet, butbecause it is licensed, Imidacloprid (Advantage) is the first choice forinfestations of fleas alone.

    Ticks

  • Ticks are not common on domestic rabbits, but the most commonlyseen is Haemaphysalis leporis-palustris.Ticks can act as vectors of Myxomatosis and in heavy infestationscause anaemia, especially in young rabbits.When removing ticks it is important to remove the whole tick and notleave the head embedded in the skin since this will set up aninfection. It is therefore wise to get your vet or vet nurse to showyou how to do this before attempting it at home.In severe cases, Ivermectin injections may be required, especiallywhen the ticks are very small and easy to miss or in areas hard toaccess.

    LiceHaemodipsus ventricosus is the rabbit louse, and it is a suckinglouse. It is rare to find lice on pet rabbits, but when found they arecommonly located down the spine, on the rump area and down thesides of the rabbit.The clinical signs of lice infestations include intense scratching andirritation, thinning of the fur and/or bald patches. In very youngrabbits, anaemia may also present in advanced infestations.Ivermectin injections are the treatment of choice, again at 7-10 dayintervals for 3-5 treatments. Imidacloprid may also be used.It is potentially possible for the rabbit louse to act as a vector forMyxomatosis, although this is thought to be an extremely rare risk.

    WoundsAny wound on a rabbit carries the risk of developing into an abscess,so it's important that wounds are carefully cleaned and treated by avet where necessary.Minor scrapes and cuts can be treated by bathing with salt water (1teaspoon to a pint of boiled, cooled water) bathed twice daily for a

  • few days, but more significant wounds will need veterinary attention.Large wounds may require suturing (often under general anaesthetic)and antibiotics to reduce the risk of infection.

    Lumps and massesThere are a variety of causes for rabbits developing lumps. Thesemay include abscesses, tumours (malignant and benign), vaccinationreactions and old scar tissue. Some may be perfectly harmless andwill not require treatment. Others may require veterinary attention.If you find a new lump on your rabbit, it is always wise to get itchecked out by a vet.Often a fine needle aspirate (FNA) is needed to take a sample of thecells in the lump for a laboratory to examine them and determinewhat they are. This is normally possible to do with the bunnyconscious and involves inserting a needle into the lump to obtain thesample. This should be no more painful to the rabbit than having aninjection.Abscesses in rabbits tend to develop a thick fibrous wall and thewhole thing, wall and all, may need to be surgically removed. Thiscan be serious or impossible undertaking if the abscess extends intovital areas such as the inner neck or skull.Full identification and treatment of other lumps may also requiresurgery, but this depends upon factors such as age of the rabbit;their general health, and whether the lump is causing any problem orlikely to in the future.

    Self-mutilationRabbits who are stressed, bored or in pain may chew at themselves.These rabbits need a thorough veterinary assessment to rule outskin disease and other health problems before attributing to abehavioural problem. Identifying and correcting the underlying

  • cause/s is essential to altering the behaviour.Rabbits need mental simulation, as well as company of anotherrabbit and opportunity to display normal rabbit behaviours, such asdigging, foraging, running and grazing in order to live a happy andfulfilled life.

    This article originally appeared in Rabbiting On (journal of the British Houserabbit Association) in Spring 2000. Itwas written by Dr Linda Dykes and Owen Davies BVSc MRCVS. This version was revised by Linda Dykes inFebruary 2002, and revised and edited again by Claire Speight RVN in December 2012. Reviewed by RichardSaunders BSc BVSc CBiol MSB CertZooMed DZooMed (Mammalian) MRCVSin Feb 2013.