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Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Naturetrek Tour Report 3 - 17 September 2012 Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Report compiled by Cliff Waller

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Page 1: Rwanda's Forests and Mountains - Naturetrek Wildlife … · Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Naturetrek Tour Report 3 - 17 September 2012 Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford

Rwanda's Forests and Mountains

Naturetrek Tour Report 3 - 17 September 2012

Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England

T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426

E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Report compiled by Cliff Waller

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Tour Report Rwanda's Forests and Mountains

© Naturetrek August 13 1

Tour Leader: Claver Ntoyinyima Local Guide

Cliff Waller Naturetrek Leader

Tour Participants: Jeffery Clausen

Liz Hall

Roger Halsey

Sheelagh Halsey

Gloria Heighes

Robert Heighes

Greg Smith

Day 1 Monday 3rd September

London

We met up for our 8pm overnight flight to Nairobi.

Day 2 Tuesday 4th September

Nairobi to Kigali

Despite a late departure, we made up time overnight and we actually arrived in Nairobi early, so had almost a

three hour wait for our onward connection, we even managed to see a few birds, with Yellow-billed Kite, House

Swift, Speckled Pigeon and Red-winged Starling, the latter the only species we failed to see again later. We

eventually arrived in Kigali in the morning, where the airport formalities were quick and straight forward. On our

way to the jeeps Common Fiscal was our first new species. Once at the Lemigo Hotel we had time to clean up

and rest before lunch. While those who ventured out to the small garden saw African Wagtail and Grey-headed

Sparrow.

Around 2pm we set off on our afternoon excursion to the Genocide Museum, where we spent a couple of hours

trying to take in and understand and reflect the horrors of the 1994 mass murders. A few birds were seen here in

the solitude of the remembrance gardens and the marsh below, these included Long-crested Eagle, Paradise

Flycatcher, Variable and Red-chested Sunbirds.

After venturing into the city to change money we headed off to the lake near the golf course, where we were

surprised to find about 700 White-faced Whistling Ducks along with a few Yellow-billed Duck, while other

species included Little Grebe, Grey Heron, Moorhen, Malachite Kingfisher, Dusky Flycatcher and Chubb’s

Cisticola, while two Egyptian Mongoose were also seen. We then drove around to the golf club main entrance,

but were not allowed access to the woodland, so we drove back to the hotel, stopping to view some Hadada Ibis

and Cattle Egret. Arriving back around 6pm we arranged an early dinner to enable us to catch up on some sleep.

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Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Tour Report

2 © Naturetrek August 13

Day 3 Wednesday 5th September

Kigali to Volcanoes

There was limited cover around our hotel before breakfast, but we found our first White-browed Robin-Chat,

Yellow-fronted Canary and Arrow-marked Babbler. We got away before schedule and after clearing the Kigali

traffic, we watched a man mowing some grass accompanied closely by a Hammerkop catching whatever he

disturbed. We then made a short detour on to the Butare road and while stopping to view some Grey-crowned

Cranes we found a Harrier Hawk and a Tawny Eagle, which was buzzed by a Great Sparrowhawk, while we also

found an African Spoonbill and some Little Bee-eater here. We then drove a short distance to an area of papyrus

marsh near the river bridge, which proved well worthwhile as we got excellent views of Papyrus Gonolek, as well

as Wire-tailed Swallow and both Spectacled and Slender-billed Weavers.

We made few stops as we travelled apart from one to view the tributary from the source of the Blue Nile, where

some of the group saw a Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk and another for a pleasant facilities and drinks stop. We

did add a few new species as we travelled though, including Augur Buzzard and both Cape and Grey Wagtails.

Our first real birding stop was at the bridge over the river just before Ruhengeri, where new species included

Open-billed Stork, Great Egret, Common Sandpiper, Swamp Flycatcher, Winding Cisticola, Yellow-bellied

Warbler, Yellow-backed Weaver and Black-crowned Waxbill, but the highlight was two Spot-necked Otters.

After a late lunch and a reasonable settling in period at a new venue for Naturetrek, the Le Bambou Gorilla

Lodge, a few species were seen around the gardens including White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, Rwenzori Double-

collared Sunbird, Pin-tailed Whydah, Yellow Bishop and Streaky Seedeater, as well as Scarlet-chested Sunbird.

Day 4 Thursday 6th September

Volcanoes National Park

A few birds were seen around the garden before breakfast, including our first Yellow-fronted Canary and Bronze

Sunbird, while other species included Chubb’s Cisticola and Rwenzori Sunbird. On reaching the Park

Headquarters the usual wait ensued while awaiting a briefing and permits, where we managed to find our first

Mackinnon’s Fiscal and Plain Martin. We drove up into the hills to a small village for the start of the Golden

Monkey trek, where the group had a short half-hour walk to get excellent close views, and as well as numerous

photographs of their quarry, a few birds where also seen including our first Fawn-breasted Waxbill and another

Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk. The wait around the village produced new species included Cape Robin-Chat

and Spot-flanked Barbet, as well as excellent close views of Rwenzori and Bronze Sunbirds and White-necked

Raven.

After lunch we headed off at around 2pm for Buhanga a forest remnant near Gihondohondo about a fifty

minute drive away, this is an area where the basic structure of a proposed hotel was built many years ago with

numerous steps and platforms comprising of huge stone blocks, now overgrown and reminiscent of some lost

South American settlement. Again this small site proved it’s worth, our two hour stay produced a number of new

species, including for our first time here Olive Woodpecker and Red-headed Robin-Chat, while other species

included Double-toothed Barbet, Spot-flanked Barbet, White-tailed Blue Flycatcher, Scaly-throated Honeyguide

and Black Cuckoo Shrike.

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Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Tour Report

© Naturetrek August 13 3

Day 5 Friday 7th September

Volcanoes National Park – Gorilla Trek

We headed off for the park headquarters just after 6.30am, but not before seeing a few birds around the lodge

garden, including Yellow-crowned Canary. On our arrival the usual wait ensued, but we were entertained by a

local dance group and a few birds around the sparse garden including our first Blue-breasted Bee-eater. The

group were eventually allocated a very nice Gorilla group comprising of twenty-four animals, which unusually

included four silver-backed males.

The drive up to the Gorilla group was a long rough one, which took some time and then there was a

considerable walk across the open grassland and agricultural areas, before reaching the park boundary wall, after

which the trail crossed some flatter land before some final steeper slopes, but was relatively easy as these treks

go. On arrival though, the group performed well providing a memorable experience and some excellent

photographic opportunities.

Due to having made several previous trips I did not accompany the group on the trek, but did walk all the way

up to the park boundary and follow the forest edge, and a few species were seen including our first Mountain

Buzzard, Regal Sunbird and Mountain Greenbul. A couple of species of terrestrial orchid were also found

including a fine white one; Satyrium crassicaule, while on one of the bushes a Rwenzori Chameleon was found. We

returned to the park headquarters to enable the Gorilla trekkers to obtain their certificates for the group, and

headed back to our lodge for a late lunch.

Later in the afternoon around 3.15pm we set off for the view point at Viranga Lodge, which sits above the twin

lakes of Bulera and Ruhondo, but unfortunately heavy rain accompanied us all the way and after leaving the main

road we found it difficult to negotiate the slope and one vehicle got stuck, requiring the help of numerous locals

to push us out, after which we returned to the main road, but we did see a few new birds will waiting for our

vehicle to turn round such as Rock Martin, Plain Martin and African Citril, while several commoner species were

seen as we travelled back, such as Speckled Pigeon, African Wagtail and Baglafecht Weaver.

Day 6 Saturday 8th September

Volcanoes National Park to Kibuye

Once again a few birds were seen around the lodge garden early in the morning, including Yellow Bishop and

Pin-tailed Whydah, as well as Cape Robin which was new for some of the group. Leaving at 7:20 a.m. we headed

straight for Gisenyi to visit the luxury Kivu hotel, where we went for a walk around the garden and then out on

the road and along the river, unfortunately there was much more disturbance than usual (with a football

competition including several teams and their supporters as well as lots of men raking to extract sand from the

river bed), but we still saw several new birds, including Palm-nut Vulture, White-breasted Cormorant, Long-

tailed Cormorant, Lesser Striped Swallow, Grey-capped Warbler and Common Waxbill, while other species

included Hooded Vulture, Bronze Sunbird and Chubb's Cisticola, we also saw some Straw-coloured Fruit Bats

roosting here. Before leaving we went to visit the border crossing into the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Driving on, to head for our lunch stop we saw several species as we travelled including African Harrier Hawk,

Augur Buzzard, Black Saw-wing and Cape Wagtail.

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Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Tour Report

4 © Naturetrek August 13

Unfortunately our arrival at Gishwati coincided with torrential rain and although we made several brief attempts

to find birds and waited well over one hour for the weather to improve, we eventually had to move on having

seen very little apart from some Mountain Masked Apalis and White-tailed Blue Flycatcher. We then drove to

Kibuye, also known as the beach city of Karongi, to the comfortable Moriah Hill Resort Hotel, situated right on

the edge of Lake Kivu, where after settling in we had a pleasant dinner.

Day 7 Sunday 9th September

Kibuye to Nyungwe National Park

Those who went out for an early morning stroll saw a few new species including Egyptian Goose, Ross’s Turaco,

Familiar Chat and Golden-breasted Bunting, while amongst a number of others species were Greenshank and

Common Sandpiper. Our final stop along the Lake Road was at a small area of papyrus, which sadly was greatly

disturbed by a road widening scheme, with part of it having been filled in to provide workmen's huts and a

parking area for heavy machinery, but we still found a few birds including our first Fan-tailed Widowbird.

On reaching Nyungwe Forest Lodge we had lunch before settling into our luxurious accommodation, which

adjoins some fine areas of forest, where a few birds were found including our first Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird.

Leaving again around 4 p.m. we soon stopped for a small flock of Black & White Mannikin, before continuing to

the main road where we drove to the start of Nyungwe National Park before getting out and walking, here we

soon located a White-bellied Robin-Chat and Regal Sunbird, before our attention was attracted by the calls of a

small feeding flock, which included Mountain Masked Apalis, Blue-headed Sunbird, Olive Sunbird and Northern

Double-collared Sunbird, we also heard Barred Long-tailed Cuckoo and Bar-tailed Trogon, while several

L’Hoest’s Monkey and Ruwenzori Sun Squirrel were also seen. Moving up to the old army camp trail we

immediately encountered another heavy thunderstorm before we were able to find anything of interest, so

retraced our steps back to the lodge.

In the evening there was an important presentation ceremony, where various awards were presented to the hotel

management from the hotels owners, who provided free wine and canapés along with entertainment from a local

dance group.

Day 8 Monday 10th September

Nyungwe National Park

After a 4am call and a quick cup of coffee we set off at 4.45am on the one a half-hour drive to the area where

Chimpanzees had been seen the day before. On our arrival at the parking place we soon set off into the forest,

the trail being mainly downhill, travelling at a reasonable pace we had little time for birdwatching, but did see

Naina Trogon and Tambourine Dove along the way. The chimps had ventured up from the valley below, so it

was the shortest walk we have ever had to locate them, taking not much more than half an hour! On finding the

trackers we soon located them and they stayed in view for us to study them for about an hour and a half, before

they climbed down and disappeared into the dense undergrowth, but they had provided reasonable photographic

opportunities at times. We also saw Ross’s Turaco here and some Mona Monkeys, which although sometimes

caught and killed by the chimps, seem to have some strange symbiosis feeding relationship with them.

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Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Tour Report

© Naturetrek August 13 5

We made steady progress on the climb back up the hill, stopping on the way to eat our packed breakfasts, birds

were few but included Yellow Whiskered Greenbul, Yellow-throated Greenbul, Cabanis’s Greenbul and Grey

Apalis, while we also heard White-headed Wood Hoopoe, Black & white-casqued Hornbill and Ludhers Bush-

shrike, the latter actually, not a Bush-shrike at all but a species of Boubou. After the longish drive back to lodge,

various group members encountered a small feeding flock near to their rooms, which provided species such as

Grey Apalis, Mountain Masked Apalis, Red-faced Woodland Warbler and Mountain Greenbul.

As the group gathered to depart at 3 pm. we encountered a group of eight Grey-cheeked Mangabey one of the

more interesting and less common monkeys here, which was quickly followed by another feeding flock, that

provided us with several new birds including Rwenzori Batis, Montane Oriole, Black Tit and Chinspot Batis,

along with Waller's Starling and several other species.

We then drove up the track and turned left across the tea plantation back to the forest seeing our first Blue-

headed Coucal along the way, before reaching the forest edge to see a group of Angola Colobus Monkeys, which

had already been located for us. They were very low down and we got excellent views of a number of adults and

young.

Day 9 Tuesday 11th September

Nyungwe National Park

After an early breakfast we left the lodge at around 6:30 a.m., driving up to Unwinka to follow the long Unwinka

trail which lopes round to rejoin the main road a mile or so above the centre, where right at the start we found

White-headed Woodhoopoe and Rwenzori Turaco, the last being the first of three species seen along the trail,

the others being Black-billed and Great Blue, getting excellent views of the first two, but more distant of the

latter. Other species seen included Tullberg’s Woodpecker, Langdon's Bush Shrike, Banded Prinia, Yellow-eyed

Black Flycatcher, Mountain Boubou, Dark-backed, Strange and Brown- capped Weavers and Grey-headed

Negrofinch, as well as others, such as Blue-headed Sunbird, Montane Oriole and Thick-billed Seedeater.

As we reached the track, which climbs back to the road we saw a Red-chested Alethe coming out into the road

to feed and drink at a puddle, as well as more Grey-headed Negrofinch and Black-headed Waxbill, while other

species along the track included Black-&- White-casqued Hornbill and Great Blue Turaco. We then drove the

short distance to Unwinka to lunch at the Park headquarters, and enjoy some tea and coffee.

As we drove back down towards Gisakura we stopped to find to Purple-breasted Sunbird and on reaching the

old army camp trail we set off with rain threatening but still saw several new birds including Grauer's Warbler

and Many-coloured Bush-shrike as well as Tambourine Dove and Northern Puffback, while we also heard Short-

tailed Warbler. Due to the deteriorating weather, we headed back to lodge for tea.

As the rain abated some us drove back up into the park for Owls and Rwenzori Nightjar, particularly hoping for

an Albertine Owlet which had been seen recently, but unfortunately the evening was quite chilly and the Owls

did not perform, but we did manage to see the Nightjar.

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Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Tour Report

6 © Naturetrek August 13

Day 10 Wednesday 12th September

Nyungwe National Park to Kigali

A few of us went for a short two hour walk in the forest before breakfast, which provided us with several new

birds including Black-faced Warbler, while other species included Blue-headed Sunbird, Collared Sunbird, White-

bellied Robin-Chat and Equatorial Akalat and as we came out of the forest we encountered a small feeding flock

with species such as Black-throated Apalis, and the uncommon Kungwe Apalis, which is mainly a canopy feeder

and a rare Albetine Rift endemic, along with Black Cuckoo-shrike and Cabanis's, Slender-billed and Yellow-

whiskered Greenbuls.

Setting off for Kigali at around 9.30am we stopped as we reached the road for an adult Harrier Hawk

accompanied by a juvenile. Our next stop was near Unwinka to look for Cassin’s Hawk-Eagle, but we only saw

two Long-crested Eagles. We also had several sightings as we travelled off Le Host Monkey and saw two

Handsome Francolins on the road. We stopped for photographs at the sign marking the watersheds of the rivers

Nile and Congo, while our final stop before leaving the park was to tape out the rare Grauer’s Bush Warbler.

We stopped at Butare to visit the exceptional National Museum, which is well laid out and full of a wide variety

of ethnic artefacts and national history. We did some birding in the garden, which produced our first Cardinal

Woodpecker and other species such as Fork-tailed Drongo, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu, and Village Indigobird,

As we travelled on we saw a few species such as Grey crowned Crane and Pink-backed Pelican, as well as a

Yellow-winged Bat. Just as it was getting dark we also made a brief stop at the marsh just before Kigali, seeing

forty or so Yellow-backed Weaver and Malachite Kingfisher.

Day 11 Thursday 13th September

Kigali to Akagera

A few birds were seen from around the hotel gardens, these included Palm-nut Vulture and Harrier Hawk.

Leaving at around 7.30am we stopped at the fishponds where we saw Fan-tailed Widowbird, and Yellow-billed

Duck etc. Just beyond here we stopped at the roadside breeding colony of Yellow-billed Stork, Sacred Ibis and

various Heron's to be confronted by an horrendous sight, they had cut down many of the trees containing the

nests and many young Stork, Ibis and Black-headed Herons were just lying dying alongside the road. A real

criminal offence, but here the locals walk by completely unconcerned.

We made no further stops until we left the main road, where we halted when we saw a snake which turned out to

be a Black Mamba being attacked by youths throwing stones, it eventually came down a steep bank onto the

road, but unfortunately it was fatally injured and almost dead by the time we got out of the vehicle's and ran to

stop them. Further halts were made for Sooty Chat, Ruaha Chat and Lilac-breasted Roller, while our next stop

was at the small dam, which proved very fruitful as we found a Rufous-bellied Heron, one of the scarcest and

secretive of the African herons, while other species included our first Night Heron, Moorhen and Grey Kestrel,

as well as Little Grebe and Double-toothed Barbet.

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Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Tour Report

© Naturetrek August 13 7

At the park headquarters while we waited permits for we saw our first Warthog, as well as birds such as Grey

Hornbill, Bare-faced Go-away-bird, Red-headed Barbet and Black-headed Weaver. wAfter reaching the lodge, we

settled in and had lunch, where the new bird seen was a Martial Eagle. We set off for a drive in the park down to

Lake Ihema at around 2.30pm seeing several new mammals along the way, which included Bushbuck and Blue

Monkey, as well as Warthog, Olive Baboon and Vervet Monkey, while birds included Water Thicknee, Wattled

Plover, Spur-winged Plover, Pygmy Kingfisher, Brown-backed Scrub Robin, Red-chested Sunbird and Green-

winged Pytilia. In the evening we had an official night drive, where we saw some Senegal Bushbaby, Cape Hare

and Freckled Nightjar.

Day 12 Friday 14th September

Akagera

A few birds were seen around the lodge gardens in the early morning, including Pale Flycatcher, Northern

Puffback, Red-faced Crombec, Marico Sunbird and Green-capped Eromomela. We headed off into the hills to

look the game, seeing several Oribi and also eventually found the Giraffe as well as Topi, Bohor Reedbuck and

Reedbuck. New birds included African Darter, Goliath Heron, Osprey, Little Sparrowhawk, Brown-Snake Eagle,

Senegal and Crowned Plovers, Broad-billed Roller, Grey-headed Kingfisher, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Plain-

backed Pipit, Rufous-naped and Flappet Larks, Trilling Cisticola, Crested Barbet, Black-lored Babbler, as well as

African Fish Eagle, Bare-faced Go-away-bird, Plum-coloured Starling and Arrow-marked Babbler.

During our lunch period we watched a Brown Snake Eagle trying over and over again to pull out some black

plastic from under one of the lodge’s roof caps, which it obviously fancied for nesting material.

In the afternoon we drove to the Giraffe area again where some Buffalo had been seen and eventually we located

a herd of about fifty, while other species included a herd of Impala. We also got our best views of Bohor

Reedbuck, including a fine male, while Oribi and Warthog were amongst other species seen. Birds included our

first Hildebrandt's Francolin, Wood Sandpiper, Brown Parrot, Greater Honeyguide, Black-faced Waxbill,

Cinnamon-breasted Rock Bunting, Greenshank, African Jacana, several other waders and African Green Pigeon.

Day 13 Saturday 15th September

Akagera

Several bird species were seen around the gardens before breakfast, these included Pale Flycatcher, Mocking

Cliff-Chat, as well as Marico and Scarlet-chested Sunbirds.

Leaving at around 7am with packed lunches we set off for the distant northern end of the park, making several

stops during the morning, with our main target being Roan Antelope, which we eventually found, and one of the

groups’ vehicles had them cross the road right in front of them. A good variety of other mammals were also

watched. Birds included a number of new species such as Squacco Heron, Western Banded Snake-Eagle, Little

Sparrow Hawk, Eurasian Hobby, Grey-rumped Swallow, White-winged Black Tit as well as Wing-snapping,

Stout and Croaking Cisticola, while amongst many other species were African Spoonbill, African Marsh Harrier,

Martial Eagle, Yellow-billed Barbet and Greater Honeyguide.

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Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Tour Report

8 © Naturetrek August 13

Our lunch stop at Lake Mihidi produced, amongst many species, our only Giant Kingfisher for the trip. Moving

on to the open plains we started to encounter more game, with good numbers of Buffalo with smaller numbers

of Giraffe and Bohar Reedbuck, while birds included Crowned Plover and Black-bellied Bustard, while on the

adjoining damper area we saw about seventy Open-billed Stork, Yellow-billed Stork, Long-tailed Cormorant,

African Marsh Harrier and Long-toed Lapwing.

After leaving the park on our journey to the main road we found yet another Rufous-bellied Heron on a small

track side pool, further on at a small reservoir we located several new birds, such as Little Grebe, Black Crake,

Knob-billed Coot, Hottentot Teal, Red-billed Teal and Grosbeak Weaver, and nearby we found our first Black-

headed Gonolek. The journey back along the main road was a long one and we arrived not too late for dinner,

after a rewarding day.

Day 14 Sunday 16th September

Akagera to Nairobi

On our final morning a number of the group went for a last and most enjoyable game drive down by the lakes,

where we still managed to see a good variety of game including Warthog and Bushbuck, as well as the expected

Olive Baboons and Vervet Monkey, along with the bonus of a couple of Banded Mongoose. Obviously birds

were more abundant and included a number of wetland species such as Yellow-billed Stork, African Fish Eagle,

Sacred Ibis, African Darter, African Jacana and Black Crake, as well as various herons and egrets, while other

species included Brown Snake Eagle, Shikra, Bateleur, Red-necked Francolin, Striped Kingfisher, Common

Scimitarbill, Grey-rumped Swallow, Black Cuckoo-shrike, Green-capped Eromomela, Black-crowned Tchagra

and Golden-breasted Bunting. Both the local Red Red-faced Barbet and Crested Barbet were also seen, while a

group of Madagascar Bee-eaters and a Bennett’s Woodpecker were new for the trip, whereas Brown-necked

Parrot was also new for some of the group.

After a late breakfast and packing, we set off to the airport at Kigali to catch our late afternoon flight. We arrived

at the airport in good time for our flight before going through to complete the formalities. Our flight to Nairobi

went via Bujumbura the capital of Burundi, which we found to be a surprisingly rural airport. We departed again

just before midnight.

Day 15 Monday 17th September

We arrived early morning at Heathrow, where after the usual farewells around the luggage carousel we departed

to our various destinations with our memories of recent days firmly in our thoughts.

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Tour Report Rwanda's Forests and Mountains

© Naturetrek August 13 1

Species Lists

Birds

September

Common name Scientific name 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

1 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 6 3 5

2 Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis 50c 8 1 50+ 2 5 8

3 Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides 3

4 Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis

5 Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus 8 20c 6 6 20c 15 20c 20c

6 Rufous-bellied Heron Ardeola rufiventris 1 1

7 Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus rufescens 1 1

8 Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumeniferus 10 8 2 2 1

9 Madagascar Pond-Heron Ardeola idae 1 10 4

10 Long-tailed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus 3 2

11 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 1 1 1 1 3 2

12 Intermediate Egret Mesophoyx intermedia 2 1 4 1

13 Hamerkop Scopus umbretta 6 12 4 1 3 4 2 10 4

14 Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash 6 15 12 14 2 5 4 4 15 5

15 Glossy ibis Plegadis falsinellus 1 1 2

16 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 2 1 1 1

17 Great Egret Casmerodius albus 3 1 4

18 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo 10 2 1

19 Goliath Heron Ardea goliath 1 1

20 Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 10 30+ 7 10 50+

21 Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala 2 3 1 2 4 20c 80c 50+

22 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax 1

23 Black Egret Egretta ardesiaca 3

24 African Openbill Anastomus lamelligerus 1 60+

25 African Darter Anhinga rufa 3 2

26 African Spoonbill Platalea alba 1 1

27 Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus 2 2 1 1 1

28 Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis 15 20+

29 White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata 700+

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2 © Naturetrek August 13

September

Common name Scientific name 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

30 Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha 1

31 Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota 15

32 White-backed Duck Thalassornis leuconotus 2

33 Yellow-billed Duck Anas undulata 11 4 1

34 Yellow-billed Kite Milvus (migrans) aegyptius 20c 30+ 12 20c 20+ 20c 3 30+ 20+ 15

35 Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus

36 African Fish-Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer 2 4 4 2

37 Palm-nut Vulture Gypohierax angolensis 1 1

38 Osprey Pandion haliaetus 1

39 Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus 1 3 2 8

40 Brown Snake-Eagle Circaetus cinereus 4 1 1

41 African Marsh-Harrier Circus ranivorus 1 3

42 Lizard Buzzard Kaupifalco monogrammicus 1

43 Shikra Accipiter badius 1 1

44 African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro 1 1

45 Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk Accipiter rufiventris 1 1

46 Little Sparrowhawk Accipiter minullus 1 1

47 Great (Black) Sparrowhawk Accipiter melanoleucus 1

48 African Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides typus 2 1 2 2 1 2 1

49 Augur Buzzard Buteo augur 3 3 2 3 2 3 1 4 1 3 4

50 African Mountain-Buzzard Buteo oreophilus 2 1

51 Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax 2 1 1 2 3

52 Wahlberg's Eagle Aquila wahlbergi 1 1

53 Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus 4 5 2

54 Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis 3 3 1 1 1 1

55 Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus 1 1

56 Rock (Eurasian) Kestrel Falco rufescens 1 1

57 Grey Kestrel Falco ardosiaceus 1

58 Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo 2

59 Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris 20c

60 Scaly Francolin Francolinus squamatus 2

61 Handsome Francolin Francolinus nobilis 2

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Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Tour Report

© Naturetrek August 13 3

September

Common name Scientific name 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

62 Shelley's Francolin Francolinus shelleyi 6

63 Hildebrandt's Francolin Francolinus hildebrandti 2

64 Red-necked Francolin Francolinus afer 6 50+ 20+ 8

65 Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostra 3 2

66 Red Knobbed Coot Fulica cristata 8

67 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 9 3 7

68 African Jacana Actophilornis africanus 2 6 9 3

69 Grey Crowned Crane Balearica regulorum 5 2 3

70 Black-bellied Bustard Eupodotis melanogaster 2

71 Water Thick-knee Burhinus vermiculatus 2

72 Spur-winged Plover Vanellus spinosus 1 2 2

73 Long-toed Lapwing Vanellus crassirostris 6

74 African Wattled Lapwing Vanellus senegallus 2 2 10 20+ 2

75 Crowned Lapwing Vanellus coronatus 2 3

76 Senegal Lapwing Vanellus lugubris 5 2

77 Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris 1

78 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypeoleucos 2 2 1 1 1 2 2 1

79 Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola 1 1

80 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia 1 2 1

81 Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon) Columba livia 6

82 Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea 2 2 2

83 Dusky turtle Dove Streptopelia lugens 2

84 Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis 2 1 1

85 African Mourning Dove Streptopelia decipiens 2 1 1

86 Ring-necked Dove Streptopelia capicola 1 1 4 10 100+ 20+ 14

87 Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata 1 3 3

88 Lemon Dove Aplopelia larvata 1

89 Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove Turtur chalcospilos 12 3 2 4

90 Blue-spotted Wood-Dove Turtur afer 6

91 Tambourine Dove Turtur tympanistria 1 1 1

92 African Green Pigeon Treron calva 2 3

93 Brown-necked Parrot Poicephalus suahelicus 1 1 4

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Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Tour Report

4 © Naturetrek August 13

September

Common name Scientific name 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

94 Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus 20c 30+ 30+ 12 6 6 5 3 10 20c 20c 10

95 Blue-naped Mousebird Urocolius macrourus 12 15 7

96 Black-billed Turaco Tauraco schuettii 8

97 Rwenzori Turaco Musophaga johnstoni 2

98 Ross' Turaco Musophaga rossae 1 3 1

99 Bare-faced Go-away-bird Corythaixoides personata 2 8 8 3

100 Eastern Grey Plantain-eater Crinifer zonurus 1

101 Great Blue Turaco Corythaeola cristata 4

102 Barred Long-tailed Cuckoo Cercococcyx montanus h

103 White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus 3 15 10 4

104 Blue-headed Coucal Centropus monachus h 1

105 Rwenzori Nightjar Caprimulgus rwenzorii 2

106 Freckled Nightjar Caprimulgus tristigma 1

107 Mottled Swift Tachymarptis aequatorialis 2

108 Little Swift Apus affinis 30+ 10 10 10 12 20c

109 Narina Trogon Apaloderma narina 1 2

110 Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maxima 1

111 Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata 1 1 1 1 2

112 African Pygmy-Kingfisher Ispidina picta 3

113 Grey-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala h 1 1 4

114 Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti 1 2

115 Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis 8 3 5 4 2 4 8 2

116 Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus 2 1 7 2 4 10 4

117 Blue-breasted Bee-eater Merops variegatus 2

118 Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater Merops oreobates 2 6 5 3

119 European Bee-eater Merops apiaster 2 4

120 Madagascar Bee-eater Merops superciliosus 4

121 Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudata 2 12 6 7

122 Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird Pogoniulus bilineatus 1 1 4

123 Western Green-Tinkerbird Pogoniulus coryphaeus

124 Grey-throated Barbet Gymnobucco bonapartei 2

125 Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus chrysoconus

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Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Tour Report

© Naturetrek August 13 5

September

Common name Scientific name 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

126 Spot-flanked Barbet Tricholaema lachrymosa 4 2 1 8

127 Double-toothed Barbet Lybius bidentatus 5 1 1 2

128 Red-faced Barbet Lybius rubrifacies 1

129 Crested Barbet Trachyphorus vaillantii 1 2 1

130 Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator 1

131 Scaly-throated Honeyguide Indicator variegatus 1

132 Tullberg's Woodpecker Campethera tullbergi 2

133 Bennett's Woodpecker Campethera bennettii 1

134 Green-backed Woodpecker Campethera cailliautii 1

135 Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens 1

136 Olive Woodpecker Dendropicos griseocephalus 2

137 Rufous-naped Lark Mirafra africana 1 3

138 Flappet Lark Mirafra rufocinnamomea 2 2

139 Rock Martin Hirundo fuligula 3 1 2 1

140 Plain Martin Riparia paludicola 8 6 3 6 6 4

141 Sand Martin Riparia riparia 4

142 House Martin Delichon urbica 1 1

143 Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica 1 6 7 2

144 Rufous-chested Swallow Hirundo semirufa 1

145 Lesser Striped Swallow Hirundo abyssinica 5 1 10

146 Barn Swallow Hirundo ruatica 50+ 4

147 Angola Swallow Hirundo angolensis 20c 30+ 20+ 12 30+ 50+ 12 40+ 30 10

148 Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii 1

149 Black Saw-wing Psalidoprocne homomelas 2 3 5 8 12 2 8 10

150 Grey-rumped Swallow Hirundo griseopyga 4 5

151 Black Cuckoo-shrike Campephaga flava 2 1 1

152 Grey Cuckoo-shrike Coracina caesia 1

153 African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp 3 4 8 6 12 10 5 2 4 5 2 3

154 Cape Wagtail Motacilla capensis 2 2 1 1 1 1

155 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 1

156 Grassland Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus 5 4 8

157 Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys 2

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Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Tour Report

6 © Naturetrek August 13

September

Common name Scientific name 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

158 Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus 8 12 30+ 12 10 3 6 4 5 11 20c 20c 4

159 Yellow-whiskered Greenbul Andropadus latirostris 4 7 5

160 Mountain Greenbul Andropadus nigriceps 1 2 4

161 Slender-billed Greenbul Andropadus gracilirostris 1

162 Yellow-streaked Greenbul Phyllastrephus flavostriatus 2 1

163 Cabanis Greenbul Phyllastrephus cabanisi 1 1

164 White-starred Robin Pogonocichla stellata 1

165 Equatorial Akalat Sheppardia aequatorialis 1

166 Red-throated Alethe Alethe poliophrys 2

167 Cape Robin-chat Cossypha caffra 2 1 1

168 White-browed Robin-Chat Cossypha heuglini 1 1 4 2 1 1

169 Red-capped Robin-Chat Cossypha natalensis 1 1

170 Archer's Robin-Chat Cossypha archeri h

171 White-bellied Robin-Chat Cossypha roberti 1 1

172 Southern Olive Thrush Turdus olivaceus 1 4 6 1 5 3 1

173 African Thrush Turdus pelios 1

174 Common Cliff-Chat Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris 7 5 8 5 3 4 2 2 2

175 Ruaha Chat Myremecocichla collaris 3 3 3

176 White-browed Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys 1

177 Brown-backed Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas hartlaubi 1

178 Familiar Chat Cercomeia familiaris 1

179 Dark-capped Yellow Warbler Chloropeta natalensis 1

180 Grauer's Scrub-Warbler Bradypterus graueri 2

181 Willow Warbler Phylloacopus trochilus 1 1

182 Red-faced Woodland-Warbler Phylloscopus laetus 1 1

183 Green Hylia Hylia prasina h h

184 White-browed Crombec Sylvietta leucophrys h

185 Yellow billed Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis 1 1 1

186 Black-faced Rufous Warbler Bathmocercus rufus h 2

187 Grauer's Warbler Graueria vittata 1+h

188 Wing-snapping Cisticola Cisticola ayresii 2

189 Stout Cisticola Cisticola robustus 4

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Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Tour Report

© Naturetrek August 13 7

September

Common name Scientific name 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

190 Croaking Cisticola Cisticola natalensis 1

191 Winding Cisticola Cisticola galactotes 1

192 Chubb's Cisticola Cisticola chubbi 2 2 10 6 3 2 2 6 2

193 Trilling Cisticola Cisticola woosnami 3 2

194 Tabora (Long-tailed) Cisticola Cisticola angusticuada 2

195 Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava 1 2

196 Banded Prinia Prinia bairdii 4 1

197 Grey-capped Warbler Eminia lepida 1

198 Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brevicaudata 3

199 Grey Apalis Apalis cinerea 2

200 Kungwe Apalis Apalis argentea h 1

201 Chestnut-throated Apalis Apalis porphyrolaema 1

202 Black-throated Apalis Apalis jacksoni 2

203 Mountain Masked Apalis Apalis personata 3 1 9

204 White-eyed Slaty-Flycatcher Dioptrornis fischeri 3 4 5 2 5 8 10 5

205 Yellow-eyed Black-Flycatcher Melaenornis ardesiacus 1

206 Pale Flycatcher Bradornis pallidus 2 1 1

207 African Dusky Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta 1 1 2 10 3 2 5 2

208 Swamp Flycatcher Muscicapa aquatica 5 2 1

209 Chin-spot Batis Batis molitor 1 2

210 Rwenzori Batis Batis diops 2

211 African Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis 1 2 3 1 1 2

212 White-bellied Crested Flycatcher Trochocercus albiventris 1

213 White-tailed Blue Flycatcher Elminia albicauda 3 3 3 3 3 1 1

214 Mountain Illadopsis Illadopsis pyrrhoptera h

215 Arrow-marked Babbler Turdoides jardineii 5 3 6

216 Black-lored Babbler Turdoides sharpei 20c 20c 7

217 White-winged Black Tit Parus leucomelas 2 1

218 African Yellow White-eye Zosterops senegalensis 1 2 20+ 3 4 2 2

219 Bronze Sunbird Nectarinia kilimensis 8 5 9 6 5 4 1

220 Purple-breasted Sunbird Nectarinia purpureiventris 2

221 Green-headed Sunbird Cyanomitra verticalis 1

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Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Tour Report

8 © Naturetrek August 13

September

Common name Scientific name 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

222 Blue-headed Sunbird Cyanopmitra alinae 1 1 1

223 Northern Double-collared Cinnyris preussi 2 4

224 Rwenzori Sunbird Cinnyris stuhlmanni 10 12 3 2 2

225 Regal Sunbird Cinnyris regia 2 1 2

226 Olive Sunbird Cyanomitra olivaca 1

227 Marico Sunbird Cinnyris mariquensis 1 1 2

228 Purple-banded Sunbird Cinnyris bifasciata 1 1 1 1

229 Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis 1 1 4 1 1 1 1 1 2

230 Red-chested Sunbird Cinnyris erythrocerca 1 1

231 Variable Sunbird Cinnyris venusta 4 3 3 5 1 1

232 Collared Sunbird Hedydipna collaris 5 2

233 Common Fiscal Lanius collaris 2 7 1 2 7 2 2 1

234 Grey-backed Fiscal Lanius excubitoroides 30+ 40c 2

235 Mackinnon's Shrike Lanius mackinnoni 5 3 5 1

236 Luehder's Bush-shrike Laniarius luehderi h

237 Black-headed Gonolek Laniarius erythrogaster 2

238 Papyrus Gonolek Laniarius mufumbiri 2

239 Mountain Boubou Laniarius poensis 1

240 Northern Puffback Dryoscopus gambensis 2 1

241 Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegala 1 1

242 Lagden's Bush-Shrike Malaconotus lagdeni 1

243 Many-coloured Bush-Shrike Malaconotus multicolor 2

244 Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis 1 3 12 7

245 Pied Crow Corvus albus 20c 30c 10 12 60+ 1 6 40+ 50+ 20c

246 White-necked Raven Corvus albicollis 3 3 3 1

247 Montane Oriole Oriolus percivali 2 3

248 Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus 10 70c

249 Waller's Starling Onychognathus walleri 1 20c 12

250 Slender-billed Starling Onychognathus tenuirostris 3 2

251 Gtr Blue-eared Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus 20c 30+ 30+ 20c

252 Rueppell's Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis purpuropterus 30+ 50+ 30+ 20c

253 Plum-coloured Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster 2 1 6 5

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Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Tour Report

© Naturetrek August 13 9

September

Common name Scientific name 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

254 House Sparrow Passer domesticus 2 1

255 Grey-headed Sparrow Passer griseus 2 20+ 20c 20c 70+ 100+ 20+ 2 20+ 100+ 4 30+

256 Black-headed Weaver Ploceus cucullatus 4 2

257 Spectacled Weaver Ploceus ocularis 1

258 Baglafecht Weaver Ploceus baglafecht 3 3 8 10 15 10 1 2 2 2 2

259 Grosbeak Weaver Amblyospiza albifrons 3

260 Slender-billed Weaver Ploceus pelzelni 2

261 Yellow-backed Weaver Ploceus melanocephalus 6 2 40+

262 Northern Brown-throated Weaver Ploceus castanops 12

263 Holub's Golden Weaver Ploceus xanthops 2 1 1 1

264 Dark-backed (Forest) Weaver Ploceus bicolor 4

265 Strange Weaver Ploceus alienus 1

266 Brown-capped Weaver Ploceus insignis 1

267 Vieillot's Black Weaver Ploceus nigerrimus 1

268 Red-headed Weaver Anaplectus rubriceps 3

269 Fan-tailed Widowbird Euplectes axillaris 2 1

270 Yellow Bishop Euplectes capensis 5 3 6 4

271 Grey-headed Negrofinch Nigrita canicapilla 3 2

272 Green-winged Pytilia Pytilia melba 3 3

273 Red-cheeked Cordonbleu Uraeginthus bengalus 4 20+ 8 6 20c

274 Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala 20 3 12 12 6 4 2

275 African (Blue-billed) Firefinch Lagonosticta rubricata 3 2 2 2 4

276 Yellow-bellied Waxbill Estrilda quartinia 2 3 1 2

277 Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild 3 50c 1 10

278 Crimson-rumped Waxbill Estrilda rhodopyga 2

279 Fawn-breasted Waxbill Estrilda paludicola 1 1

280 Black-crowned Waxbill Estrilda nonnula 2 3 10 4

281 Black-headed waxbill Estrilda atricapilla 8 10 6 2 2 6 3

282 Black-faced Waxbill Estrilda erythronotos 10

283 Bronze Mannikin Lonchura cucullata 10 10 20c 20+ 30+ 10 20c

284 Black-and-White Mannikin Lonchura bicolor 7

285 Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura 4 5 2

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Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Tour Report

10 © Naturetrek August 13

September

Common name Scientific name 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

286 Village Indigobird Vidua chalybeata 1

287 Yellow-fronted Canary Serinus mozambicus 1 1 1 1 2 2 8 2 12

288 Yellow-crowned Canary Serinus canicollis 2 20c 6 1 2

289 Thick-billed Seedeater Serinus burtoni 7 1 2 2

290 African Citril Serinus citrinelloides 1 1 1

291 Streaky Seedeater Serinus striolatus 10 10 20+ 20c 30c 4 4

292 African Rock-Bunting Emberiza tahapisi 2

293 Golden-breasted Bunting Emberiza flaviventris 3 1 3 2 1 1

Mammals

1 Chimpanzee Pan troglodytes 10

2 Mountain Gorilla Gorilla gorilla beringei 15c

3 Ruwenzori Colobus Colobus angolensis rewenzori 18

4 Olive Baboon Papio anubis 20c 50+ 80c 20+

5 Grey-cheeked Mangabey Lophocebus albigena 8

6 Vervet Monkey Cercopithecus (a) pygerythrus 2 15 20c 12 10

7 L,Hoest's Monkey Cercopithecus (I'h) l'hoesti 1 6 7

8 Dent's Mona Monkey Cercopithecus mona denti 25c 4

9 Gentle (Blue) Monkey Cercopithecus mitis 12

10 Senegal Bushbaby Otolemur senegalensis 2

11 Straw-coloured Bat Eidolon helvum 20c

12 Yellow-winged Bat Lavia frons 1

13 Cape Hare Lepus capensis 2 1

14 Spot-necked Otter Lutra maculicollis 2

15 Ruwenzori Sun Squirrel Heliosciurus ruwenzori 1 1 8

16 Boehm's Squirrel Paraxerus boehmi 1 8 1

17 Banded Mongoose Mungos mongo 2

18 Ichneumon Mongoose Herpestes ichneumon 2

19 Spotted Rock Hyrax Heteronyrax brucei 4

20 Burchell’s Zebra Equus quagga 5 100c

21 Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibius 20+

22 Warthog Phacochoeerus africanus 10 30+ 30c 2

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Rwanda's Forests and Mountains Tour Report

© Naturetrek August 13 11

September

Common name Scientific name 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

23 Masai Giraffe Giraffe camelopardalis 1 17

24 Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus 4 14 8 2

25 Oribi Ourebia ourebi 4 15 20+

26 Bohor Reedbuck Redunca redunca 5 12

27 Defasse Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus deffasa 7 6 60+

28 Impala Aepyceros melampus 50c 500+

29 Topi Damaliscus lunatus 12 150+

30 Roan Antelope Hippotragus equinus 4

Reptiles

1 Black Mamba Dendroasis polylepis 1

2 Blue-headed Tree Agama Acanthocercus africollis 3 1

3 Red-headed Rock Agama Agama agama 2

4 Striped Skink Mabuya striata 3

5 Ruwenzori Side-striped Chameleon Chamaeleo rudis 1

6 Tropical House Gecko Hemidactylus mabouia 2 2

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