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Lights, Camera, Action! Sabaidee's Guide to The Luang Prabang Film Festival

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1st prize Toyota

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Buy Toyota Pick up or Passenger Car from 01st October – 31st December 2014,you will get 1 lucky draw coupon: a chance to win big prizes worth more than 1,400,000,000 Kip.

value, 5. The prizes could be different from photo, 6. Prizes can not be changed or exchanged for cash or other prizes, 7. Toyota reserved the right to change, explore or cancel the prizes or even term & condition without any advance notice, 8. Toyota Motor Thailand Co., Ltd.’s decision is final.

WORTH MORE THAN

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ສະບາຍດທານຜອານ!

ພວກເຮາຫວງວາທານຈະມກວາລະສານສະບບເດອນ ກນຍາທຜານມາຂອງພວກເຮາ. ບາງເທອ ທານອາດ ຈະໄດທດລອງຂລດຈກ ຜະຈນໄພໄປຕາມເສນທາງທາ ແຂກດວຍຕນເອງແລວກເປນໄດ ຫ ບກໄດເດນທາງໄປ ໜອງຂຽວຢທາງພາກເໜອຂອງລາວ ທເຕມໄປດວຍພຜາປາໄມອນຂຽວງາມ.

ເ ລອ ງ ເ ດນ ຈ າ ກ ປກ ໃ ນ ສ ະ ບບ ນ ພ ວ ກ ເ ຮ າ ຈ ະ ນ� ພາທານ ໄປສເທດສະການ ຮບເງາຫວງພະບາງ ເຊງເປນ ຫນງໃນເທດສະການ ທາງດານສລະປະວດທະນະທ� ທໃຫຍທສດໃນລາວ. ພວກເຮາຈະໄດນ�ສະເຫນ ກຽວກບ ເທດສະການດງກາວ ເຊງຈະມບນດາຜຜະລດຮບເງາ ໃນທວພາກພນ ອາຊຕາເວນອອກສຽງໃຕ ເດນທາງມາ ເມອງຫວງພະບາງ ໃນເດອນທນວານ.

ໃນເດອນນ ພວກເຮາໄດເປດຕວພາກສວນໃໝຂອງ ວາລະສານ ກຄ ແຕງກນກບສະບາຍດ (ສະບາຍດ ຄກ). ສ�ລບເດອນທ�ອດນ, ພວກເຮາມແມຄວຊຽວຊານ ພາເຮາແຕງອາຫານປະຈ�ຊາດທຂນຊຂອງລາວ ກຄ ລາບ ນນເອງ.

ໃນ ພາກ ສະ ປອດ ໄລອອນສະ ບບ ນ, ພວກ ເຮາ ໄດ ເດນທາງລອງເຮອຂນໄປແມນ�ຂອງ ຜານໝບານຫາປາຕາງໆ, ເຊງເສນທາງນແຕກອນແມນເປນເສນທາງຂນສງຫກ. ຈາກນນ ເຮາກເດນທາງໄປທອງທຽວເມອງອນສວຍສດງດງາມ ເປນຕາໜາປະທບໃຈຂອງຫວຽດນາມ ກຄ ຮອຍ ອນ ໃນພາກສວນການທອງທຽວໃນພາກພນ ກຄພາກເຊອມໂຍງອາຊຽນ (ອາຊຽນ ຄອນເນກ).

ນອກຈາກນນ ໃນເດອນນ ພວກເຮາຍງໄດພາທານໄປຊອກຫາບນດາອາຫານທບຄອຍມຄນຮຈກໃນວຽງຈນ ໃນພາກຄມສະບາຍດ, ບວາຈະເປນອາຫານໂຮນລງ, ຟລບປນ, ຕວກກ ແລະ ອນໂດເນເຊຍ, ເຊງພວກເຮາຈະພາທານໄປເຖງທເລຍ!

ທານສາມາດຊອກຫາ ວາລະສານ ສະບາຍດ ໄດຕາມບນດາຮານກາເຟ, ຮານອາຫານ, ໂຮງແຮມ ແລະ ສະປາຕາງໆ ຖາທານມຄວາມຄດຄວາມເຫນ, ຄ�ແນະນ�, ມງານ ຫ ກດຈະກ�ຕາງໆ ທຢາກໃຫພວກເຮາລງໃນວາລະສານ ທານກສາມາດສງອເມລ ມາຫາບນນາທການຂອງພວກເຮາໄດທ [email protected].

ຂໃຫທານມວນຊນໄປກບການອານວາລະສານຂອງພວກເຮາ!

ພນ ລະຄອນ ສ ບນ ເຮອງຜອຳ�ນວຍການ

Greetings readers! We hope you liked our September issue last month. Maybe you’ve tried the adventurous Thakhek Loop motorbike trip for yourself by now, or travelled to Nong Khiaw in the country’s mountainous north!

In this issue's cover feature we guide you through one of the biggest events on Laos' cultural calendar -- the Luang Prabang Film Festival. We tell you what to expect when Southeast Asia's best filmmakers descend on the old royal capital next month.

This month we launch a brand new Sabaidee segment called Sabaidee Cooks. For our first month, an expert cook guides us through the many varieties of the famous Lao national dish: laap.

In the Spotlight On section we travel up the mighty Mekong – once a serious freight route – on a cruise ship, passing secluded fishing villages along the way. Then we explore the delightful and incredibly photogenic Vietnamese city of Hoi An in our regional travel section, ASEAN Connect.

We’ve also tracked down some of Vientiane’s more niche cuisines for this month’s Sabaidee’s Guide To section. Dutch, Filipino, Turkish and Indonesian food in Vientiane? We show you where to find it!

Find Sabaidee Magazine in your favourite cafes, restaurants, hotels and spas from the 15th of every month. Got suggestions, comments or an event you’d like to see featured? Email our editor on [email protected]. Enjoy the issue!

Phanhlakhone SyboonheungThe Director

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C O N T R I B U T O R SKRISTEN MARANO Kristen is currently travelling and working in the Asia Pacific. She's a freelance communications consultant working with entrepreneurs and startups, as well as a regular contributor to Huffington Post Canada where she writes about style and travel.

MICHELLE LUEHMANMichelle has spent the last 20 years living and working around the world, and most of that time has been spent around Asia. An avid observer of people and places, she has written extensively about life in Asia, both as a visitor and a resident. She has worked for lifestyle and travel magazines around the globe capturing the essence and flavour of life in each different locality.

SHAYLING NGOA recent journalism graduate from Australia, Shayling relo-cated to Vientiane in order to pursue her dreams of writing and travelling. Intrigued by Southeast Asian cultures she hopes to share her adventures and experiences with the world, one word at a time.

JAMES ELTON-PYMOn the cusp of finishing his journalism degree in Sydney, Australia, James decided to put off the inevitable and instead move to Laos, despite being too tall to fit through any of the country’s doorways, to work as a subeditor for the Vientiane Times news-paper. Now, he’s the editor of Sabaidee Magazine.

JO LIDBETTER Jo has lived in Laos since 2006. She fell in love with the people, culture, food and the region in general when she lived in Thailand for a couple of years in the early 1990s and always knew that this area would one day be her home. Combining her passions for cooking, writing, teaching and photography led her to start running cooking courses. Her Facebook group ‘Cooking in Laos’ has ideas for recipes, tips on where to buy ingredients and details about her cooking courses. She also runs the ‘Tropical Cooking’ Facebook page.

Travel

22 The Old Liquid Highway - Cruising the mighty Mekong28 Hoi An - White sands and languid charm

Lifestyle

26 Sabaidee Cooks - Laap 34 COVER: Lights, Camera, Action -- Our guide to the Luang Prabang Film Festival 41 EAT, DRINK, RELAX, SHOP, SEE & DO, SLEEP listings42 Eclectic Eats - Discovering the capital’s rare cuisines

21stT H I S I S S U E

N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 4

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ON THE COVERLights, Camera, Action - The Luang Prabang Film Festivalphoto courtesy of the Luang Prabang Film Festival

RACHEL ARBINGRachel Arbing is a primary school teacher who hails from the tiny Prince Edward Island in Canada. Last year she traded her fast-paced life in South Korea for a more laid-back one in Vientiane. Wherever she is, Rachel loves capturing the vibrancy of local people and places through the lens of her camera.

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News & Events

10 What's On 14 What's New

PB6

WHERE WE ARE

VIENTIANEIncreasingly modern bustling capital with a trailblazing dining scene that must be tasted to be believed. Here you’ll

alongside Parisian-style boulangeries, glossy developments, a young emerging creative scene, and some of the country’s most lively marketplaces.

LUANG PRABANGTranquil heritage-listed city boasting exquisite handicrafts, rich cultural sites steeped in history, a cosmopolitan bar scene and oodles of French colonial charm, all where the idyllic Nam Kahn and Mekong rivers meet. The perfect destination for the discerning traveller, the city is dotted with boutique hotels and spas.

VANG VIENGOne-time party haven turned an outdoor enthusiasts dream, the small town is set to

and lush forest. Nothing beats whiling a day away kayaking down the Nam Song river or taking a dip at the serene blue lagoon – utter relaxation in nature.

SAVANNAKHETSitting on the banks of the Mekong, this growing city is the second-largest in Laos. The town centre houses ambient French Colonial architecture and small and friendly eateries are dotted along the riverfront. Just beyond the city

nearby Dong Natad Protected Area.

PAKSEThe capi ta l o f the southern province of Champassak, Pakse is the gateway to the picturesque Bolaven Plateau which is home to an abundance of scenic waterfalls and motorcycle routes, and is widely regarded as producing some of the highest-quality coffee in the country.

THAKHEKA launching pad for the captivating Thakhek Loop. Throw your kit on a rented motorbike and set off on a 4-day journey to explore the hidden Buddha Cave, secluded water holes, tiny villages and, the main attraction, Kong Lor Cave which houses a snaking river system accessed only by motorboat.

XAYABOURY Home to the Land of Million Elephants’ highest pachyderm population. Each year in February

creatures during the annual Elephant Festival.

HMLAO

WHO'S

All material appearing in Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission to the copyright holder. All articles and photographs published herein are created by the authors and photographers at their own discretion and do not necessarily represent the view of the publisher of the magazine. Sabaidee Lifestyle & Travel Magazine holds no responsibility or liability arising out of the publication of such articles and photographs.

ONLINE EDITION ALSO AVAILABLE AT:

For more informationvisit www.sabaidee-magazine.com

or simply scan the QR code

] stnatlusnoC / າສກປທະນະຄ [ ດຈວງຄ ງພະລະທດພ Pattarapong Kongvijit / ນນາຕດລະວາຊເ ດສວ Wisith Chawalitanon / ວກແນອ ຊໄະນາມ Manachai Inkaew / ສມໃຈ ພມຜາສກ Somjai Pimpasouk [ ຜອຳນວຍການ / Director ] ພນລະຄອນ ສບນເຮອງ Phanhlakhone Syboonheung [ ບນນາທການອຳນວຍການ / Editorial Director ] ເກດ ພດທະຢາກອນສນ Gaid Kornsilapa [ ບນນາທການບລຫານ / Editor in Chief ] ຄຳສວນ ຈນທະລາດ Khamsouan Chanthalat [ ບນນາທການ ພາສາອງກດ / English Editor ] ເຈມສ ເອລຕນ-ພມ James Elton-Pym [ ບນນາທການອອນລາຍ / Online Editor ] ຂະນດຖາ ອດຕະເມດ Kanittha Attamate

] rotceriD gnitekraM & selaS / ຍາຂຍາຝນາກຍວນຳອຜ [ ນລເະຈນພະຍລະອ າດາຍະຊ Chayada Ariyaphoncharoen ] rotanidro-oC gnitekraM / ດາຫະຕນາກນາງນາສະປ [ ງພທດສ ດອລນບ Bounlod Sittiphong ] retropeR / ວາຂນາງມທ [ າພວບ ນອສງວະພບທເ Thepphavongsone Bouapha ] ngiseD tuoyaL / ບບແກອອ ະລແ າໜດຈ [ ລະນດນ

ມາທອງ Nutnaree Mathong / ຳຄນສແງຄ ດວະນະທ Thanawatt Khongseankhum / ດລນບ ດາລວນວ Wanvilart Boonyaratana eediabaS / ດຍາບະສນາສະລາວນາກງອຫ [Magazine Sales Office THM Lao Co., Ltd. ] 265 Baan Nongbone, Xayxetha, Vientiane Lao P.D.R

] xaF / leT / :ກຟແ / ທໂ [ +856 21 454782 / +856 21 454782 / Mobile: +856 20 5516 2440, +856 20 5884 8376, +66 83 018 4076 (Thai) / ນາກທານນບ ລມເອ [Editor Email ] [email protected] ] liamE selaS / ຍາຂຍາຝ ລມເອ [ [email protected] ] rehsilbuP & renwO / ມພດຈຜ ະລແ ງອຂາຈເ [

ວາລ ມອເ ສອເ ທ THM Lao www.sabaidee-magazine.com ] yb tnirP / ທມພ [ ດກຳຈ ນຮພນຍວາລ ມພງຮໂ Lao Uniprint Press Co., Ltd

WHAT'S ON

A MEMORY OF RUSTOngoing, i:cat gallery, Vientiane(JJVTWSPZOLK�3HV�HY[PZ[�6St�=PYH]VUN�:JV]PSS�PZ�ZOV^JHZPUN�OLY�ÄYZ[�=PLU[PHUL�based artist Helen Biles continues her residency in i:cat gallery’s upstairs studio, alongside her ongoing textiles exhibition A Memory of Rust.

Rust speaks to a past that is fading. Drawing on observations from the landscape and environment Helen’s images evoke a strong sense of place and time. Combining natural dyes, rust and printing techniques, she makes marks on fabrics.

The exhibition comprises textiles and an installation, and is open daily from �WT��WT�H[�P!JH[�NHSSLY ��:L[[H[OPYH[O�9VHK��)HU�:PT\HUN��,U[Y`�PZ�MYLL��-VY�more information contact [email protected] or visit www.facebook.com/icatgallery.

THE COLOURS OF MY HOMELANDTuesday November 25, 6pm-8pm, i:cat gallery, Vientianei:cat gallery welcomes its latest exhibition, The Colours Of My Homeland, a collection of paintings by Lao artist K. Hongsaopen�PUN�VU�;\LZKH ��5V]LTILY����MYVT��WT��WT��(�NYHK\H[L�MYVT�[OL�5H[PVUHS�-HJ\S[`�VM�-PUL�(Y[Z��/VUNZH�^VYRZ�WYLKVTPUHU[S`�in watercolour and oil paintings, and his attention to detail and original technique has seen him emerge as a prominent young Lao artist.

;OL�L_OPIP[PVU�^PSS� Y\U� MYVT�5V]LTILY����+LJLTILY����� P!JH[�NHSSLY`� PZ� VWLU� KHPS`� MYVT� �WT��WT�� :L[[H[OPYH[O� 9VHK�� )HU�:PT\HUN��,U[Y`�PZ�MYLL��MVY�TVYL�PUMVYTH[PVU�JVU[HJ[�P�JH[NHSSLY`'gmail.com or visit www.facebook.com/icatgallery.

WARM CLOTHES DONATION DRIVE Throughout November, Lao Red Cross, VientianeClose to freezing temperatures are not fun, especially when you don’t have the warmth of a nice, thick blanket… or shoes for your feet. As the cold season approaches, the Lao Red Cross wants to make sure communities in the northern provinces are able to keep warm and stay healthy. You can help them beat the cold and warm some hearts by donating new or second hand blankets, clothing and shoes, and encouraging your friends and family to do the same. You can drop your donation at Lao Red Cross Headquarters, Setthathirath Avenue, Impass Xieng 5O\UL�\U[PS�[OL�LUK�VM�6J[VILY��;V�ÄUK�V\[�TVYL��]PZP[�^^ �facebook.com/LaoRedCrossSociety.

CHARITY.

HANDMADE ARTS AND CRAFTS FAIR Saturday November 22, 10am-3pm, Vientiane Inter-

national School (VIS), Vientiane/(5+4(+,!�HU�HY[� �JYHM[�MHPY��WYLZLU[LK�I`�P!JH[�NHSSLY ��PZ�H�THY�ket that aims to promote handmade art and craft products to the Vientiane community. This exciting fair will showcase handmade ^HYLZ�PUJS\KPUN�OHUKPJYHM[Z��HY[^VYRZ��SP]L�HY[�HUK�ÄST��;OL�L]LU[�is an opportunity to experience and support the wealth creativity in Vientiane as well as meet local makers and artisans, and browse for Christmas gifts.

,U[Y`�[V�[OL�MHPY�PZ�MYLL��0[�^PSS�[HRL�WSHJL�PU�[OL�\UKLYJV]LY�HYLH�VM�the canteen at Vientiane International School. Stallholder fees will be KVUH[LK�[V�[OL�3V[\Z�.PYSZ�,K\JH[PVU�-\UK�PU�:H]HUUHROL[��+YPURZ��coffee, and snacks can be purchased from the school canteen on [OL�KH ��-VY�TVYL�PUMVYTH[PVU�WSLHZL�JVU[HJ[�P�JH[NHSSLY`'NTHPS�JVT��

MINISTRY OF SILK SUMMER CLEARANCE Until November 30, Ministry of Silk, VientianeBoutique fashion store Ministry of Silk is having an end of season sale to clear its summer collection and make room for new designs for autumn and winter. All items are 30% off from October 10 – November 30. Don’t TPZZ�[OPZ�VWWVY[\UP[`�[V�NL[�OPNO�X\HSP[`�JSV[OLZ�MVY�H�IHYNHPU�WYPJL��

SHOP.

ART.

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WHAT'S ON

CHANMALY LADIES’ NIGHT, THURSDAYSThursdays, 5pm onwards, Chanmaly Café,

Vientiane<WTHYRL[�-YLUJO�JHMt�*OHUTHS`� PSS�UV^�NP]L�P[Z�MLTHSL�customers 50% off all wines and cocktails from 5pm each Thursday night. There are more reasons than ever to visit the café right now – fresh crops of imported cheeses and hams from Spain and Italy have recently HYYP]LK��;OL�JHMt�PZ�HSZV�ZLY]PUN�H�KLSPJPV\Z�UL^�JYPZW`�tofu burger for vegetarians.

I-BEAM LADIES’ NIGHT, WEDNESDAYSWednesdays, from 7pm, I-Beam, Vientiane0�)LHT�IHY� HUK� YLZ[H\YHU[»Z� WVW\SHY� 3HKPLZ�5PNO[�continues every Wednesday with female customers enjoying 50% off all glasses of wine from 7pm onwards. ;OL� IHY� PZ�^LSS�Z[VJRLK�^P[O� ,\YVWLHU� HUK�:V\[O�African vintages, so there’s sure to be something for all tastes, and the delectable tapas menu makes for an L_JLSSLU[�HJJVTWHUPTLU[��-VY�TVYL�KL[HPSZ�]PZP[� ^ �facebook.com/ibeamvientiane.

SOCIAL.

CHRISTMAS SHOPPING AT MA TÉ SAI November 14 to 23, i:cat gallery, Vientiane(YL�`V\�VU�[OL�O\U[�MVY�[OL�WLYMLJ[�*OYPZ[THZ�NPM[&�3\HUN�7YHIHUN�IHZLK�H\[OLU[PJ�3HV�OHUKPJYHM[�ZOVW�4H�;t�:HP�^PSS�ZOV^JHZL�P[Z�WYVK\J[Z�H[�HU�L_JS\ZP]L�WVW�\W�Z[VYL�MYVT�5V]LTILY����[V����H[�P!JH[�NHSSLY`���Q\Z[�PU�[PTL�MVY�[OL�MLZ[P]L�ZLHZVU��;OL�WVW�\W� ZOVW�^PSS� ZOV^JHZL� H� ZLSLJ[PVU� VM� NPM[Z� HUK� OVTL^HYLZ� JYHM[LK� I`� HY[P�sans across Laos, including exquisite decorative and wearable textiles, Christmas decorations, accessories, tableware, organic botanical products and handmade mementos. Ma Té Sai works with local artisans to develop and handpick items they personally love and that celebrate the craft involved in their creation. Many products may have been transformed to suit a modern environment, but all of them have been THKL�I`�WLVWSL�^OV�HYL�WYV\K�VM�[OLPY�ZRPSSZ�HUK�[YHKP[PVUZ��(�JLY[PÄLK�TLTILY�VM�3HVZ�-HPY�;YHKL��4H�;t�:HP�HPTZ�[V�JYLH[L�Z\Z[HPUHISL�PUJVTLZ�MVY�3HV�HY[PZHUZ��HUK�allow skills to be passed on to generations to come. Join the Ma Té Sai mailing list by visiting www.matesai.com.

SHOP.

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12 Khouvieng Rd, Vientiane Capital, Lao PDR

Phone: +856 21 26 4097Fax: +856 21 26 3064

Email : [email protected]

Ban Viengkeo, Vang ViengVientiane Province, Lao PDRPhone: +856 (0)23 511 726-8Fax: +856 (0)23 511 729Email: [email protected]

Riverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam Song

Green Park Boutique Hotel - Elegance and Timeless Comfort in the Heart of Vientiane

Riverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam SongRiverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam SongRiverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam SongRiverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam SongRiverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam SongRiverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam SongRiverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam SongRiverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam SongRiverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam SongRiverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam SongRiverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam SongRiverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - 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The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam SongRiverside Boutique Resort, Vang Vieng - The Charm of Tradition on the Bank of the Nam Song

WHAT'S NEW

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POND’S LAUNCHES NEW SKIN CREAM 7VUK»Z� \U]LPSLK� H� UL^� ^OP[LUPUN� ZRPU�JYLHT� H[� H� ZWLJPHS� L]LU[� H[� 3HV� 7SHaH�/V[LS� PU� =PLU[PHUL�� ;OL� WYVK\J[�� º7VUK»Z�-SH^SLZZ�>OP[L�+L^`�9VZL»��PZ�HK]LY[PZLK�HZ�[YLH[PUN�\UL]LU�ZRPU�[VUL�HUK�YLK\JPUN�[OL�HWWLHYHUJL�VM�KHYR�WH[JOLZ���

LUXURY INDOCHINESE CRUISE;YHPSZ� VM� 0UKVJOPUH�� (THU�9LZVY[Z�HUK�(X\H�,_WLKP[PVUZ�OH]L� QVPULK� MVYJLZ� [V� VMMLY�H� \UPX\L� JY\PZL� [OYV\NO�0UKVJOPUH��(X\H�,_WLKP[PVUZ»�THPKLU� ]LZZLS� PU� (ZPH� ^PSS�ÄYZ[� [HRL� `V\� [V�:PLT�9LHW�PU�*HTIVKPH� [V� L_WSVYL� [OL�Y\PUZ�VM�(UNRVY�>H[��@V\�^PSS�[OLU� ZHPS� MVY� 7OUVT� 7LUO��[OL� JHWP[HS� VM� [OL� JV\U[Y ��-PUHSS ��LUQV`�H�[^V�UPNO[�JP[`�IYLHR� PU� =PL[UHT»Z� /V� *OP�4PUO�*P[`�ILMVYL�JVTWSL[PUN�`V\Y� QV\YUL`� PU� (TVUVP�� H�[YHUX\PS�YL[YLH[�V]LYSVVRPUN�[OL�ZWLJ[HJ\SHY�=PUO�/`�)H ��;YHPSZ�VM� 0UKVJOPUH� PZ�H�+LZ[PUH[PVU�4HUHNLTLU[� *VTWHU`��+4*�� [OH[� ZWLJPHS PZLZ�PU� L_JS\ZP]L�� SPTP[LK� HUK�ILZWVRL� L_WLYPLUJLZ� HUK�[YH]LS��;V�ÄUK�V\[�TVYL��VY�[V�THRL�H�IVVRPUN��LTHPS�PUMV'[YHPSZVÄUKVJOPUH�JVT��

14

Stay connected and follow our most recent news activities and win some free vouchersat our Facebook page at www.facebook.com/sabaideemagazine

Welcome to Sabaidee Club! This is a space for our readers to take part in a monthly competition with the chance to win fantastic prizes.

This month we want to hear about the Lao dishes you enjoy cooking. Do you make a fantastic homemade laap or khao piak? Tell us how you make it and send us a couple of photos in an email to [email protected], or post it on our Facebook page before December 15, 2014

The winner will receive two free nights for two people at the Tropical Oasis Park Hotel in Luang Prabang.

ŬĺĿįŁĩĪń�ĥĸơįŭĩŃĮĪńīŻļĮĽơįĺňź�ĺĿįŁĩĪń�ĥĸơį��ijƋĮĭƂįźļĮĮƉōƹźĮĵńŐƽŻĺƕĸơįĭźŁĮıňŻļźŁĮ�ŌƷƄļŌƨƌŁĽźĹĵģŁĮōƨźĦĤơĮİĿħƕŌƮņļĮ�ĤļĦijĹģŌǁʼnŁ�ōƼĿ�ĸŇŻĮĽơįĤļĦĸŁĦĹơĮijŃŌƾĪĶźŁĦƍĹĦƍŁĩ�

ĺƕĸơįŌƮņļĮĮƉ� ijĹģŌǁʼnŁĶŁģĽňŻģźŋĹģơį� įơĮĪŁļŁĻŁĮĸŁĹ� ĭƂĭźŁĮĵơģōƯźĦģŃĮĶňźįŻŁĮ�� ĭźŁĮŌǁŀĪĸŁįōƬįő�ƍņ� ŌƨƌŁİŋģōƬįőįſ"� ĭźŁĮĺŁĵŁĪĺƤĦĽňįijŁį� ōƼĿ� ļĿĭŃįŁĩĹźŁĭźŁĮōƯźĦģŃĮōƲĹŏƮ� ĵŁŐƮŻĭŁĦļńŌƹĸĭƂ�HGLWRU#VDEDLGHH�PDJD]LQH�FRP�ƍņ�ŎƷĺĸƢĦŢŻŁŌƸĺįŇģĤļĦijĹģŌǁʼnŁ�ģźļĮĹơĮĭƂ����ĭơĮĹŁ������

ıňŻŎƬģĪń�ħĿŐƮŻĽơįĭƂijơģĴķń���ĥņĮ�ĺƕĸơį���ĭźŁĮ�ĭƂŎǁĦōǁĵ�ĭļįİŃĥŗĸ�ŎǀŌǀĺŃĪ�İŁģ�ƍĹĦijĿįŁĦ

We are now on Instagram! Follow us aswe explore Laos on @sabaideemagazineĺƢĮŏƫŌƴŀĮĺĿĵŁĨŃģ�ĹŁĸĿĺŁĮ�ĺĿįŁĩĪń

īŃĪīſijƢĹijơĮ�Ŏĭ������������ƍņ�(PDLO���VXEVFULEH#VDEDLGHH�PDJD]LQH�FRP

WANT TO SUBSCRIBE TO SABAIDEE MAGAZINE? CALL US AT 021 454 782 FOR DETAILS OF OUR SUBSCRIPTION PLAN

16

KOREA TRAINS YOUNG LAO ARTISTS ;OL�9LW\ISPJ� VM� 2VYLH»Z�4PUPZ[Y`� VM�*\S[\YHS�(MMHPYZ� PSS�[OPZ� LHY�L_WHUK�P[Z� +YLHT�7YVQLJ[¹�PU�3HVZ�MVSSV^PUN�P[Z�Z\JJLZZ�PU�������;OL�WYVQLJ[�HPTZ� [V� LK\JH[L� HUK� [YHPU� WYVTPZPUN� `V\UN�HY[PZ[Z� PU� KL]LSVWPUN� JV\U[YPLZ� SPRL� 3HVZ� I`�KPZWH[JOPUN�]VS\U[LLY�[LHTZ�VM�OPNOS`�X\HSPÄLK�HY[Z�WYVMLZZPVUHSZ��;OL�WYVQLJ[�^PSS�JVSSHIVYH[L�^P[O�[OL�3HV�NV]LYUTLU[�[V�L_[LUK�[OL�WYVNYHT�[V�TVYL� WLVWSL� [OPZ� `LHY��^OPJO� PZ� HSZV� [OL���[O�HUUP]LYZHY`�VM� [OL�962�(ZLHU�KPHSVN\L�WHY[ULYZOPW��4VZ[�YLJLU[S ��[OL�2VYLHU�HK]PZVYZ�OH]L�ILLU�[YHPUPUN�KHUJL�Z[\KLU[Z�PU�=PLU[PHUL�

HUAWEI TECH SUMMIT *OPULZL�UL[^VYR�HUK�[LSLJVTT\UPJH[PVUZ�JVTWHU`�/\H^LP�YLJLU[S`�OVZ[LK�[OL�3HV�0UMVYTH[PVU�HUK�*VTT\UPJH[PVUZ�;LJOUVSVN`�:\TTP[�PU�=PLU[PHUL�VU�:LW[LTILY�����;LSLJVTT\UPJH[PVUZ�VWLYH[VYZ�HUK� YLWYLZLU[H[P]LZ� MYVT� [OL�4PUPZ[Y`� VM� 7VZ[�HUK� ;LSLJVTT\UPJH[PVUZ� H[[LUKLK� [OL� Z\TTP[�[V�ZOHYL�PKLHZ�HUK�ZWLJ\SH[PVUZ�HIV\[�[OL�M\[\YL�VM�[OL�PUK\Z[Y ��

WHAT'S NEW

16

CHRISTMAS EVENT

· Enjoy your Christmas atmosphere

with Santa Klaus, pines, delicious foods…

· Gifts for children will be presented

by Santa Klaus.

· Take your children to our Kid corner

for drawing contest to win prizes.

· Arrange corporate banquet party

on the Christmas.

NEW YEAR COUNT DOWN

CELEBRATIONEnjoy “New Year Eve atmosphere”

in monumental, splendid space at

Grand ball room from 20:30 on

December 31st, with delicious

foods, free flow of drink, together

with a live music program with

performance by promising singers

and dancers carefully prepared will

add more spices to the menu.

Furthermore, a lot of prizes and

cash are waiting for you at the

lucky draw!Certainly, you will be brought a

unforgettable New Year Eve

program with pleasure and

unexpected things!

18

MY CITYWhat better way to get to know a city than through those who live, work, and play in it? Sabaidee Magazine chats to a resident to get an insider’s guide to their locale.

18

My Vient iane

Nakhornphet Pasomsouk (Lae) is a project manager at the French Red Cross, working on issues surrounding HIV/AIDS and the right to access healthcare services. A life-long Vientiane resident, he shares his tips on the best places in the capital to eat, drink, and most importantly, party!

What is your job like? My project helps strengthen Lao civil society organisations so they can promote the right to access essential healthcare services, especially for vulnerable people and those living with HIV. I enjoy my work.

it gives me exposure to lots of different kinds of people who have a similar interest in helping our community.

What’s your favourite thing about living in Vientiane? My favourite thing would be enjoying tasty food in all the different restaurants in town. I also love the many big events held in Vientiane throughout the year, such as boat racing and the That Luang festival.

What do you do on a Saturday night?Saturday night! When I think about

to mind are friends and fun. I like going to parties or bars with my good friends.

Describe your ideal weekend in Vientiane: Aside from partying and hanging out with friends, I sometimes sneak away with a few people to places outside town where you can enjoy beautiful scenery and great food. It’s a very relaxing way to spend the weekend.

Best place to grab a coffee: I like to catch up and chat at either Common Grounds or The Little House. Both have fantastic coffee and tea.

Your favourite local eatery: My favorite places to eat out are Lao Kitchen and Makphet. They both serve really tasty, unique food. If you’re visiting Laos, you have to try one of these.

Where do you like to go out at night? My favourite bar is The Lao Café (commonly known as CCC Bar). I used to be a partner of this bar and it’s a great place where both foreigners and Lao people come to party together.

What, in your opinion, is Vientiane’s best-kept secret?For me, Vientiane’s best-kept secret is the kindness and friendliness of the local people, as well as the city itself. Vientiane may not super colourful or fancy but it’s full of sincerity and smiles. That’s why I say Vientiane is simply the best!

ນາຫລບຜນປເ

າຫນບ ະລແ ສດອເ/VIH ນາດາຫນບບກນພວພ

ວລແນານນດາລວເນປເນຈງຽວນໃຢສໄາອວາລ

ສ ນຄ�

ຍອດນຄມກາດນບນໃນມແະາພເະສຍດໂ ,ກສະນະລາທາສ

.ງອມເນໃໆງາຕນາຫາອນາຮມາຕ ໆບຊແນາຫາອນກະາລເ

ທ�ອດ

ນ ງາບ ,ວລແຄໝ�ນ

ດທວທບກປໄນພເດພເ ະລແ ນຄ ທ ມາງຍວສນອດາຊະມ�

ມລດນ ບພດນກມຍອຂ ນ

ະາພເະສກລະກອເນປເ ະລແ ນ ວາລມາຢມຽຢາມດໄຜໃາຖ .�

ນ�ກນ.

ສ ະລແ ດຈໃມາວຄນມແ ນຈງຽວງອຂບລມາວຄ ,ຍອຂບລ�ຄວາມມມະນດສ ະລແ ນຈງຽວງອມເນໃນຄງອຂ ດນພ�

ງອເນຈງຽວງອມເຕໂະກງອຂ ນ

A Stylish Budget AccommodationOption in Luang Prabang

The Ultimate Relaxation Hideaway

125 Unit 7, Bane Vixoun, Luang Prabang, Lao PDRTel: +856 (0) 71 212 642, +856 (0) 71 252 933www.tropicaloasispark.com

FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CONTACT:

Spotlight onwords & photos Michelle Luehman

The Old Liquid HigHway

Fighting the current of the mighty Mekong in a cruise ship from Vientiane to luang Prabang takes five days – a little longer than the one-hour flight! But the stunning views and fascinating lifestyles

of the ethnic minorities that live on this majestic river are unlike anything you’ll see from the window seat of a jet. Sometimes, the old ways really are the best

ເສນທາງຫວງທາງນ�ໃນສະໄໝກອນການລອງເຮອຕານກະແສແມນ�ຂອງທໄຫແຮງ ຈາກວຽງຈນຫາຫວງພະບາງ ແມນໃຊເວລາທງໝດ 5 ມ - ດນ

ກວາຖຽວບນໜງຊວໂມງໜອຍໜງ! ແຕຫາກວາທວທດອນສວຍງາມ ພອມການດ�ລງຊວດອນເປນຕາໜາປະທບໃຈ ຂອງກມຊນເຜາຕາງໆ ທອາໄສຢເລາະລຽບຕາມແຄມແມນ�ຂອງນ ແມນເປນພາບທແຕກຕາງຫາຍ

ເຊງທານຈະບສາມາດປະສບພບເຫນໄດ ຜານປອງຢຽມບອນນງຢເທງຍນຢາງແນນອນ.

22

ເຖງແມນວາໃນສະໄໝກອນ ເສນທາງນ�ຂອງ ຈາກວຽງຈນ ຫາເມອງຫວງເກາ ກຄຫວງພະບາງ ຈະເປນເສນທາງສາຍສ�ຄນ, ແຕໃນປດຈບນ ເສນທາງນ ແມນບຄອຍມຄນທອງຄນທຽວແລວ.

ແມຂອງ ຣເວຄຣສ (www.cruisemekong.com) ເປນບລສດດຽວ ທພາທານລອງເຮອ ລະຫວາງວຽງຈນຫາຫວງພະບາງ. ທານຈະລອງເຮອໄປກບຄວາມງຽບສະຫງບ ຕາມລ�ແມນ�ຂອງ, ຜານໝບານນອຍໆ, ເຮອຫາປາ, ພອມ

ດມດ�ກບທວທດແຄມແມນ�ຂອງອນ ສວຍສດງດງາມໄປຕະຫອດທາງ. ການ ເດນທາງໂດຍເຮອໂຄງໄປໂຄງມານ ໃຊເວລາທງໝດ 5 ມເຕມ ກວາຈະຮອດ ຫວງພະບາງ. ຈາກວຽງຈນ, ທານເລມ ຂເຮອຂນໄປຕາມລ�ແມນ�ຂອງ ຜານ ແຂວງວຽງຈນ, ໄປສແຂວງໄຊຍະບລ ແລະ ທາຍສດກເຂາສແຂວງຫວງພະບາງ.

ເມອທານທອງທຽວຂນໄປຕາມລ�ແມນ� ທານຈະພບເຫນບານເຮອນຢເຂຊນນະບດ ອອມຮອບບລເວນນນ ເລມຈາກໝບານ ຢບລເວນຮາບພຽງ ຄອຍໆກາຍເປນບານຢຕາມເນນພ, ແລະ ເມອໃກຊຮອດຫວງພະບາງ ກຈະພບເຫນບນດາສນພແລະ ເຂາອນສງຊນ.

ແມນ�ຂອງອນກວາງໃຫຍໄພສານນເປນ ສແດງແຮງກາ ແລະ ຢຕາມທາງໂຄງແຕ ລະບອນ ກຈະພບກບທວທດອນໜາຕນ ຕາຕນໃຈ. ທານຈະພບກບບນດາເຮອທ ເດນທາງເຂາ-ອອກ ຢບລເວນປາກນ� ເປນໄລຍະໆ ເຊງບນດາເຮອດງກາວນແມນບນຈຜຄນ ແລະ ຜນຜະລດຕາງໆ

Though it was once a major thoroughfare, the stretch of the Mekong between Vientiane and the old capital of Luang Prabang is now seldom travelled.

Mekong River Cruises (www.cruisemekong.com) offers the only river cruise between these two cities. It’s a sleepy ride along the Mekong, with small villages, fishing boats and stunning river views to take in along the way. It takes five full days of gentle meandering to reach Luang Prabang by boat. From Vientiane, you follow the Mekong up through Vientiane province, into Xayaboury, and finally into Luang Prabang province.

As you travel upstream you watch the surrounding countryside move from flat lowlands to gentle rolling hills and, as you approach Luang Prabang, higher mountain ranges. The majestic river keeps its red colouring and each gentle curve brings another stunning vista. The occasional boat comes in and out of the many estuaries that feed the main river. The boats ferry people and produce, either to the rice plots further along the river, or to the different sites for gathering or harvesting naturally grown produce.

We visited three villages on our cruise; all were isolated fishing villages. Visiting these little towns brings home the reality of Laos being among the poorest countries in the world. They are a far cry from the restaurants, hotels and tourist havens most of us visit. Every village had a mooring shack that doubled as a restaurant and pub as well as the loading bay for the village. As night falls the boats either moor where they are or drop off goods and passengers to the town before heading up a small estuary to anchor for the night.

Ban Palard was our first stop. This sleepy Lao Lum village features a large monastery and temple. On the long main street, a clothing shop sits doing fairly little business. Large terracotta urns collect rainwater. The buildings are mostly woven rattan with occasional metal roofs.

The

Old

Liq

uid

Hig

Hway

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Pak Lay, populated by the same ethnicity, is a local market town where people bring their fresh fruit, vegetables, and wares to sell each day. Towns along this part of the Mekong have a regular trade with Thailand and residents travel freely across the Mekong to trade. There is no proper border crossing.

Each village is a day’s travel along the Mekong. Every evening people bathed and children swam at the water’s edge. The enormous boat makes a big impression and looks a little surreal in these surroundings – local villagers are drawn to the bank to look and marvel. The boat captains take this opportunity to ask about the current river conditions. On the third evening, we moored at the Khmu village of Ban Dan Sai Dnan, which had a central water station. The strong, ever-present current of the Mekong provides the water pressure.

Here we visited the local school, a desolate timber building with dirt floors and a tin roof in the middle of field. Ramshackle, hand-sewn timber tables and chairs lay dormant over the summer break with a black board in each room. No cabinets, bookcases or shelves. Hot in summer, wet when it rained. A stark reminder of the struggle to provide education in these villages and what we take for granted.

The next evening we stop just before the mighty Xayaboury hydropower dam. The sheer scale of this massive structure is an impressive sight. Once we are through the dam, it’s a short ride to the mooring site before a bus ride to the Kong Sai Waterfalls. Mekong River Cruises actively supports all of the villages they visit through various community projects. Donations can be made on-board.

ເພອເດນທາງໄປຫາທງນາຢຕາມແຄມ ນ�, ຫ ໄປຫາສະຖານທອນໆເພອເກບ ກ ແລະ ເກບກຽວບນດາພດ ພນຕາງໆທ ປກຕາມທ�ມະຊາດ.

ການເດນທາງຂອງພວກເຮາໃນຄງນ ພວກເຮາໄດແວຢຽມຢາມ 3 ໝ ບານ ເຊງ ເປນໝບານຫາປາທງໝດ. ແຕລະບານ ຈະມທາຈອດເຮອ ເຊງເຮດເປນຮານອາຫານ ແລະ ຮານກນດມໄປໃນຕວ ພອມຍງເປນອາວບນຈເຄອງຂນ-ລງ ສ�ລບທາງບານນ�. ເມອຕກເດກມາ ເຮອ ສວນຫາຍກຈະຈອດທຽບໄວແຄມທາ ຫບກຂນເຄອງລງ ແລະ ສງຜໂດຍສານລງໃນເມອງ ກອນທຈະເດນທາງໄປປາກນ�ນອຍ ພອຈອດເຮອທຽບທາໄວ ສ�ລບຄ�ຄນດງກາວ.

ບານ ປາລາດ ເປນບານທ�ອດທພວກເຮາ ແວ. ບານດງກາວເປນບານລາວລມອນ ງຽບສະຫງບ ເຊງປະກອບມວດວາອາຮາມ ຂະໜາດໃຫຍ. ຢຕາມທາງໃຫຍ ກມຮານ

ເສອຜານອຍໆຕາມແຄມທາງ, ແລະມອາງດນເຜາ ຂະໜາດໃຫຍໄວເກບນ� ຝນ. ອາຄານຢນ ສວນຫາຍແມນມງ ແຕະໄມເຮຍ ແລະ ບາງບອນກມຫງຄາ ສງກະສ.

ບານປາກລາຍ ເປນບານຊນເຜາລາວລມເຊນດຽວກນ, ເປນຕະຫາດສ�ລບທອງຖນອອມແອມບລເວນດງກາວ ເຊງປະຊາຊນໄດພາກນນ�ໝາກໄມສດ, ຜກ, ແລະສນຄາຕາງໆມາຂາຍໃນແຕ ລະມ. ບນດາເມອງຕາງໆຢບລເວນນ ແມນມການຄາຂາຍຢາງສະໝ�ສະເໝ ກບທາງໄທ ເຊງຈະພບເຫນປະຊາຊນ ເດນທາງຂາມນ�ຂອງໄປ-ມາ ເພອຄາ ຂາຍ ຢາງສະດວກສະບາຍ ແລະ ຢບລເວນດງກາວກບມຂດໝາຍຊາຍແດນນ�.

ການເດນທາງຕາມແມນ�ຂອງ ແມນແວ ໄປຕາມແຕລະບານໃນແຕລະມ. ເມອຄອຍ ແລງມາ ກຈະພບເຫນປະຊາຊນ ແລະ ເດກນອຍ ລງມາອາບນ� ແລະ ລອຍນ� ຫນຢແຄມທາ. ເຮອຂະໜາດໃຫຍຂອງ ພວກເຮາ ຂອນຂາງໂດດເດນ ແລະ ເບງຄວາເກນຈງ ເມອມາຢໃນບນຍາກາດ ດງກາວນ ໂດຍປະຊາຊນໄທບານນນ ກພາກນແນມເບງຢາງແປກໃຈ. ກບຕນເຮອຂອງພວກເຮາ ກເລຍຖໂອກາດດງກາວ ສອບຖາມປະຊາຊນ ກຽວກບສະພາບກະແສນ�ໃນມນນໆ.

ໃນຕອນແລງມທ 3, ພວກເຮາໄດຈອດ ແວຢໝບານຂະມ ກຄ ບານແດນ ຊາຍ ດານເຊງມສະຖານສນກາງທາງນ�. ກະແສນ�ທໄຫແຮງຂອງແມນ�ຂອງ ໄດກໃຫເກດແຮງດນນ�ດງກາວ.

ຢນ ພວກເຮາໄດໄປຢຽມຢາມໂຮງຮຽນພາຍໃນບານ ເຊງເປນອາຄານໄມຮາງ ຕງຢໂດດດຽວ ກບພນດນເປອນໆ ແລະ ຫງຄາສງກະສ ຕງຢກາງເດນ. ໂຕະ-ຕງ ເປນໄມອດ ຄອນໆ ຕາບ ດວຍມຕງຢຢາງງຽບສະຫງບ ເນອງຈາກ ເປນໄລຍະພກແລງ, ແລະ ກມກະດານດ� ຢໃນແຕລະຫອງ. ໂຮງຮຽນຢນ ບມຕປມ, ລນຊກເກບເຄອງ ຫ ຖານໄວເຄອງ ໃດໆເລຍ.

ແລງມຕມາ ພວກເຮາໄດພກເຊາຢ ບອນທໃກໆຈະຮອດເຂອນໄຟຟາໄຊຍະບລ. ຂະໜາດອນສງຊນຂອງໂຄງສາງອນ ໃຫຍຫວງນ ແມນເປນພາບອນເປນຕາ ໜາປະທບໃຈຫາຍ. ເມອກາຍເຂອນມາ ແລວ, ຂເຮອມາໜອຍໜງ ກຈະມາຮອດທາຈອດເຮອ ກອນທຈະທລດເມໄປຫາ ຕາດກວາງຊ. ແມຂອງ ຣເວຄຣສ ໄດໃຫ ການສະໜບສະໜນບນດາໝບານ ທງໝດທພວກເຮາໄປຢຽມຢາມ ຢຢາງສະໝ�ສະເໝ ຜານໂຄງການຊມຊນຕາງໆ. ທານສາມາດບລຈາກໄດນ�ທາງເຮອເລຍ.

24

A RETROESCAPEBY THE RIVER

Farewell to 2014 and welcome 2015 with our December specials

to stay between December 28, 2014 and January 1, 2015

Enjoy a discount of 30% on all room types for all bookings to stay

Enjoy a discount of 20% on all room types for all bookings to stay on Friday and Saturday

1285, PATHUMMALAI ROAD, T. MAEKLONG, MUANG DISTRICT, SAMUT SONGKRAM 75000 RESERVATION:+66 (0) 3470 1121 E- MAIL : [email protected]

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Sabaidee CookSwords and photos Jo Lidbetter

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LaapChiCken, pork, fish, tofu or mushroom

Welcome to a brand new

Sabaidee Magazine series: Sabaidee Cooks! Each week

our expert cook Jo Lidbetter will show us the tricks to creating both

traditional Lao dishes and some favourites from abroad. Jo specialises

in creative modifications to recipes that allow some ingredients to be swapped

for others – so tourists should be able to make these even when

they get back home!

Words & photos Jo Lidbetter

One of the joys of living in Vientiane is the food. From the Lao food, low in fat and crammed with herbs, chillies, garlic and fish flavours, to the amazing food we’ve acquired from our Asian neighbours, and to the nod back to colonial times, both in terms of the bread which is available around the country and the plethora of amazing restaurants. We are truly spoilt for choice.

With an abundance of affordable fresh fruit and vegetables, and more and more shops selling products previously hard to find here, it is becoming easier to cook these dishes ourselves. With some basic knowledge, we can recreate Lao dishes around the world and cook our favourite western dishes here.

Laap is the national dish of Laos. No Lao repertoire is complete without this classic spicy chopped meat and mint dish. It is traditionally made with

chicken, pork or fish, but one of the joys of cooking it ourselves is the freedom to try alternatives. Tofu and mushrooms both work well for a vegetarian version. Nam pha (Thai fish sauce) is a traditional substitute for baa dek, the fermented fish ubiquitous in Lao cooking. If this doesn’t work for you, substitute soy sauce. This will give you the same saltiness without the fishiness. Add the chillies slowly, tasting as you go to get the perfect balance of spiciness for your palate. Most Lao folk will enjoy it served with far more spice than the average Westerner. Of course, if you are making this in the West, it may be difficult to get your hands on a banana flower. In this case, a savoy cabbage will work fine. Laap does normally contain mono-sodium glutamate but you can skip it if you prefer.

We made chicken laap (laap gai) the traditional Lao way.

Method Cut open the chicken and slice the kidneys, heart and liver into strips around 5mm wide. Remove the skin from the chicken and cut this into similar strips. Fry this. You won’t need oil as the chicken fat will provide plenty. Add the garlic and a teaspoon of MSG. Cook for around five minutes until the chicken is cooked and the garlic is soft, then take off the heat.

Put about a litre of drinking water in a bowl and add a dozen mint leaves, the juice of half a lemon (and the squeezed fruit), and the banana flower (preferably the yellow one as this has a delicious nutty flavour. The red one is bitterer). Leave this to soak while you prepare the rest of the laap.

IngredIentS YOu WILL NEEd:

• a whole chicken,• a couple of cloves of garlic,• a teaspoon of mono sodium glutamate,• some fermented fish (baa dek),• a generous handful of mint leaves, separated from the stems,• ten chillies and a spoonful of dried red chilli powder,• a small handful of coriander, attached to the stems, and chopped• a banana flower, sliced finely,• ten spring onions, five finely chopped, five left uncut,• two large limes,• a cucumber, • some baby aubergines (eggplants).

Next, put a cup of baa dek (fermented fish) into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Boil for around 3 – 5 minutes to increase the flavour. If you are using a substitute, you can skip this step.

Squeeze the water out of the banana flower mix. Chop it and add it to the meat, together with the juice of one more lemon. Add a heaped tablespoon of dry fried rice powder to the mix.

Strain and add a couple of spoons of the cooked baa dek, the chilli powder, five chopped up birds eye chillies, a handful of unchopped mint, the spring onions and the coriander. Stir this and serve with raw baby aubergine, peeled and sliced cucumber, the rest of the spring onions, the chilli peppers and, of course, some sticky rice.

Jo Lidbetter is admin of the popular ‘Cooking in Laos’ Facebook page (www.facebook.com/groups/323192264489447), which you can follow for more recipes!

ໂຈ ລດເບດເຕ ເປນຜບລຫານຂອງກມເຟສບກ ‘Cooking in Laos’ ທມຊສຽງ (www.facebook.com/groups/323192264489447), ເຊງທານສາມາດເຂາໄປຕດຕາມເບງສດອາຫານເພມເຕມໄດ.

27

You can buy rice powder at the market, but if you wish to make it yourself, fry a handful of uncooked rice in an otherwise empty pan and stir it while it browns, taking care not to let it burn. Remove from the heat and leave to cool. Remove any burnt bits and pound to a powder with a pestle and mortar.

ແຕງກນກບສະບາຍດ:ຂຕອນຮບບນດາທານເຂາສພາກສວນໃໝຂອງ

ວາລະສານສະບາຍດ ກຄ ແຕງກນກບສະບາຍດ! ແຕລະອາທດ ແມຄວຜຊຽວຊານ ໂຈ ລດເບດເຕ ຈະໃຫຄ�

ແນະນ�ກຽວກບການເຮດອາຫານ ທງອາຫານພນເມອງລາວ ແລະ ອາຫານຕາງປະເທດ. ໂຈ ຊຽວຊານໃນການເຮດອາຫານ ທສາມາດດດແປງ

ສວນປະສມໄປຈາກເມນດງເດມໄດ ຈງເຮດໃຫນກທອງທຽວສາມາດເຮດອາຫານດງກາວໄດ ເຖງວາຈະ

ກບໄປບານເກດເມອງນອນແລວກຕາມ.

ບດຄວາມ ແລະ ຮບພາບໂດຍ ໂຈ ລດເບດເຕ

ສງໜງທເຮດໃຫມຄວາມສກໃນການອາໄສຢໃນ ນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນ ກແມນຍອນອາຫານນເອງ. ວຽງຈນ ເຕມໄປດວຍອາຫານອນຫາກຫາຍ ບວາ ຈະເປນອາຫານລາວທມໄຂມນຕ�ແລະມ ສວນປະສມສະໝນໄພຕາງໆ ພອມ ໝາກເຜດ, ກະທຽມ ແລະ ລດຊາດປາ, ໄປຈນຮອດອາຫານ ແຊບໆຈາກປະເທດເພອນບານໃນອາຊຽນ, ພອມຫວນຄນໄປຮອດສະໄໝລາເມອງຂນ ເຊງມເຂາຈ ແຊບໆຢທວປະເທດ ແລະ ຮານອາຫານທເກດຂນ ເປນຈ�ນວນຫວງຫາຍ. ພວກເຮາມ ໃຫ ເລອກຢາງຫາກຫາຍຈນນບບຖວນເລຍກວາໄດ.

ບນດາຜກ ແລະ ໝາກໄມສດໃນວຽງຈນແມນມ ລາຄາຖກ, ແລະ ປດຈບນກມຮານຫາຍໆຮານເກດຂນ ເຊງຂາຍ ເຄອງທຫາໄດຍາກໃນເມອກອນ, ຈງເຮດໃຫ ພວກເຮາສາມາດ ແຕງອາຫານກນເອງ ໄດ ງາຍຂນນ�. ພຽງແຕທານມຄວາມຮພນຖານໜອຍໜງ, ທານກຈະສາມາດແຕງອາຫານລາວ ໄດຈາກທກໆບອນໃນໂລກ ແລະ ສາມາດແຕງ ອາຫານຕາງປະເທດທເຮາມກ ຢລາວໄດນ�ອກ.

ວທເຮດຜາໂຕໄກອອກ ແລະ ຊອຍໄຕ, ຫວໃຈ ແລະ ຕບອອກເປນເສນ ບາງໆ ກວາງປະມານ 5ມມ. ລອກໜງອອກຈາກໂຕໄກ ແລະ ຊອຍເປນເສນບາງໆເຊນກນ. ນ�ທກຢາງນໄປຂວ - ທານບຈ�ເປນຕອງໃສນາມນ ເນອງຈາກໜງໄກແມນມຄວາມມນຫາຍແລວ. ໃສກະທຽມ ແລະ ແປງນວລງໄປ 1 ບວງກາເຟ. ຂວປະມານ 5 ນາທຈນໄກສກ ແລະ ຈນກະທຽມອອນ ແລວກມອດໄຟ.

ເອານາດມປະມານລດໜງໃສໃນຖວຍ ແລະ ໃສໃບຫອມລາບຈ�ນວນຫາຍ ພອມບບໝາກນາວໃສເຄງໜວຍ ແລະ ໃສໝາກປ (ເອາໝາກປອອນ ເນອງຈາກວາມນຈະມລດຊາດມນ.ສວນໝາກປແກຈະຂອນຂາງຂມ). ແຊຜກດງກາວໄວ ໃນຂະນະທທານກະກຽມສວນປະສມທເຫອຂອງລາບ.

ຕໄປ ໃຫທານເອາປາແດກຖວຍນອຍໜງ ລງໃສໝ ແລວຕມ ປະມານ 3-5 ນາທ ເພອເຮດໃຫລດຊາດເຂມຂນຂນກວາເກາ. ຖາທານໃຊສວນປະສມອນແທນ ກໃຫຂາມຂນຕອນນໄປ.

ບບນາອອກຈາກໝາກປ. ຊອຍໝາກປແລວເອາໃສນ�ກບກບຊນ, ພອມບບໝາກນາວໃສໜວຍໜງ. ໃສເຂາຂວ 1 ບວງແກງເຕມໆ ແລວຄນເຂາກນ.

ຄນສວນປະສມຕາງໆ ແລວກໃສປາແດກສກ 2-3 ບວງ, ໃສໝາກເຜດຜງ, ໝາກເຜດສດຊອຍ 5 ໜວຍ, ໃສໃບຫອມລາບ ທຍງບທນຊອຍ, ຜກບວ, ແລະ ຫອມປອມ. ຄນສວນປະສມຕາງໆໃຫເຂາກນ ແລວເສບກບໝາກເຂອດບ, ໝາກແຕງຊອຍ, ຜກບວທເຫອ, ໝາຫເຜດດບ, ແລະ ແນນອນ ທຂາດບໄດກແມນເຂາໜຽວ.

ສວນປະສມ:ທານຕອງການ:• ໄກໜງໂຕ• ກະທຽມ 2-3 ກບ• ແປງນວ 1 ບວງກາເຟ• ປາແດກ• ຫອມລາບຫາຍກ�, ເດດອອກຈາກການ• ໝາກເຜດ 10 ໜວຍ ແລະ ໝາກເຜດປນ 1 ບວງ• ຫອມປອມກ�ໜງ, ຊອຍໃສພອມການເລຍ• ໝາກປ, ຊອຍບາງໆ• ຫອມບວ 10 ຫວ, 5 ຫວຊອຍບາງໆ, ອກ 5 ຫວບຊອຍ• ໝາກນາວ 2 ໜວຍ• ໝາກແຕງໜວຍໜງ• ໝາກເຂອຈ�ນວນໜງ

ທານສາມາດຊເຂາຂວໄດຢຕະຫາດ, ແຕຖາທານຢາກເຮດເຂາຂວເອງ ກພຽງແຕນ�ເອາເຂາສານ ມາຂວໃສໝ ແລວຄອຍໆຄນຈນເຂາ ກາຍເປນສນາຕານແລະ ລະວງບໃຫເຂາໄໝ. ມອດໄຟ ແລະ ປະໃຫມນເຢນກອນ. ໄຈເອາເຂາທໄໝອອກ ແລະ ກນ�ເຂາທຂວແລວ ໄປຕ�ໃສຄກ.

ລາບໄກ, ໝ, ປາ, ເຕາຮ ຫ ເຫດ

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ASEAN CONNECTwords & photos Kristen Marano

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The whiTe sands and languid charm of

Hoi Anຫາດຊາຍສຂາວ ແລະ ມນສະເໜຂອງ ຮອຍ ອນ

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If you’re visiting the headline cities and sites in mist-veiled, mysterious Vietnam, it’s well worth making the trip to Hoi An. Nestled in the center of country, equidistant from old rivals Ha Noi in the north and Ho Chi Minh City in the south, the travel is a little bit tricky – but it’s exactly this that makes Hoi An’s stunning beaches and UNESCO-listed heritage town feel so laidback and authentic.

Once a major trading hub in the 16th Century, Hoi An in Vietnam has become an international tourist destination famed for its rare combination of beautiful beaches and its endearing

ancient town. As Hoi An struggles to preserve its history and adapt to growing tourism, it has retained an enduring charm thanks to its friendly people and French flare. If I were Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton would be my Hoi An – how long to stay, when to leave and when to return?

ຖາທານໄດມໂອກາດໄປຢຽມຢາມບນດາເມອງ ແລະ ສະຖານທທອງທຽວຕາງໆໃນຫວຽດນາມ

ກຢາລມຖໂອກາດໄປແວຢຽມຢາມ ຮອຍ ອນ. ຮອຍ ອນ ຕງຢໃຈກາງຂອງປະເທດ ລະຫວາງທາງເໜອຂອງຮາໂນຍ

ແລະ ທາງໃຕຂອງໂຮຈມນ ເຊງອາດຈະເຮດໃຫການເດນທາງໄປຍາກແດ ແຕຖາໄດໄປແລວກຖວາຄມຫາຍ.

ຮອຍ ອນ ຖກຮອງຮບເປນເມອງມລະດກໂລກຈາກຢເນສໂກ, ເປນເມອງທມມນສະເໜອນເປນເອກະລກ

ແລະ ມຫາດຊາຍອນສວຍງາມຫາຍ.

ບດຄວາມ ແລະ ຮບພາຍໂດຍ ຄຣສເຕນ ມາຣາໂນ

ໃນສະໄໝກອນ ຮອຍ ອນ ເຄຍເປນສນກາງດານການ ຄາຂອງຫວຽດນາມ, ແຕໃນປດຈບນ ແມນກາຍມາເປນ ສະຖານທທອງທຽວທດງດດນກທອງທຽວຊາວຕາງປະເທດມາຢາງຫວງຫາຍ ເນອງຈາກເມອງດງກາວ ແມນ ຂນຊດານຫາດຊາຍທສວຍງາມ ແລະ ເມອງເກາແກອນ ເປນເອກະລກ ທບວາໃຜໆກຫງຮກ. ເມອງຮອຍ ອນ ເປນເມອງທມມນສະເໜກບຜຄນທເປນມດ ພອມມກນອາຍຈາກສະໄໝຝຣງຫງເຫອຢນ�.

A man napping outside a store in the ancient town.

The promenade along the Thu Bon River is perfect for cycling.

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White sandsAn Bang Beach is swarming with with sun-soaking tourists by day and sun-escaping locals by night. Visiting this creamy white stretch on the South China Sea, just a 10-minute bike ride from the city centre, reveals the starkly different lifestyles of the tourists and the locals. Hang around into the late afternoon to see how the residents of this quiet beach town really live.

On my first visit to the beach I was a typical tourist, splayed out on a plastic lounge chair turning pink in the midday sun.

The second time, I had learned my lesson. Late in the afternoon, I plunked down by the shore and cracked open a cold beer. This time locals inched in on my tiny towel as the sun sank lower and lower in the sky.

Locals arrived in droves under the cotton-candy sky and bounced in the waves. Food vendors sold street snacks like Vietnamese pancakes. I tried shrimp crackers topped with chili soy sauce. Immersing ourselves in a local experience also meant a challenge in spice tolerance – the strong sauce burned furiously at the back of my throat.

Yellow streaks across the sky turned black and the lifeguard blew his whistle to end the evening. Chatterbox children ran to bathtub-like concrete basins to rinse off the salt.

We ate a banh mi on a fresh baguette with pork and shredded carrots for 12,000 dong (US$0.6). We were the only foreign faces surrounded by lovely locals on scooters, the traffic resembling Bangkok in rush hour. Kids smiled and shouted xin chào (‘hello’ in Vietnamese). As we peddled away, tears rolled down my cheeks. I was falling for Hoi An.

Sunset over An Bang Beach.

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ຫາດຊາຍສຂາວ

ຫາດ ອນ ບາງ ແມນເຕມໄປດວຍນກ ທອງທຽວ ທມານອນຕາກແດດໃນຍາມ ມເວນ ແລະ ຄນໃນທອງຖນທມາຫນໃນ ຍາມກາງຄນ. ຫາດຊາຍສຂາວຂອງ ທະເລຈນໃຕນ ແມນຂລດຈກອອກມາຈາກຕວເມອງປະມານ 10 ນາທກຮອດ. ມາຕອນສວາຍໆແດ ແລວທານຈະພບເຫນການດ�ລງຊວດອນງຽບສະຫງບ ຂອງປະຊນທອາໄສຢເມອງແຄມທະເລແຫງນ.

ໃນຕອນຕາເວນຕກດນ, ບນດາປະຊາຊນ ທອງຖນທອາໄສຢເຂດນນ ກຈະພາກນ ອອກຈາກບານ ລງມາລອຍນ�ຢທະເລ. ຢຕາມຫາດກມລຂາຍອາຫານຕາງໆ ເຊນບນແຊວເປນຕນ. ຂອຍໄດລອງຊມ ຂຽບກງທອດ ຈ�ກບແຈວສະອວ ແລະ ໝາກເຜດ.

ຄອຍຄ�ມາ ຍາມຢແຄມຝງ ກເປາໝາກຫວດໃຫທກໆຄນຂນຈາກນ�, ແລະ ເດກນອຍກພາກນລາງນ�ທະເລອອກ ຢອາງເບຕງ.

ພວກເຮາພາກນກນເຂາຈປາເຕ ໃສໝ ແລະ ກະລດຊອຍ ໃນລາຄາ 12000 ດງ ($0.6). ພວກເຮາເປນຄນຕາງປະເທດ ກມດຽວຢຫນ ແລະ ນອກນນກແມນຄນພາຍໃນທອງຖນໝດທພາກນຂລດຈກໄປ-ມາ. ການສນຈອນຢນ ຄາຍໆຄກນ ກບບາງກອກ ຍາມໄປການ-ເລກການ. ເດກນອຍໆ ພາກນຍມຫວ ແລະ ຮອງ ໃສພວກເຮາວາ ຊນຈາວ (ສະບາຍດ ໃນ ພາສາຫວຽດນາມ).

Locals swimming at An Bang Beach.

Boats along the Thu Bon River.

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Speedy tailorSHoi An is a great place to get good, affordable, made-to-measure clothes. While neighbouring cities like Singapore have long been known for high-quality tai loring, Hoi An has developed a reputation with tourists for making decent pieces in about a day. Several tailors have shops in the city centre and the old town. Medium-quality fabrics such as cotton start at about 740,000 dong (US$35) for men’s dress shirts and trousers and women’s dresses and skirts.

charged US$6 for entry to go towards the preservation of the UNESCO Word Heritage town, but I entered without being asked to pay.

There are many restaurants , homestays and hotels available, including the Sunshine Hotel (www.sunshinehotelhoian.com), where we stayed with a balcony, pool and complimentary breakfast for 560,000 dong per night (US$26). Many hotels offer a shuttle service from Da Nang Airport or the nearby bus station.

Hoi An is not new to tourism, but the town has been able to limit commercial development. As we biked and walked around, men played soccer at the community field, kids walked home from school and locals enjoyed dinner in their homes.

Hoi An holds a special place in my heart. I hope that I can return some day, and that when I do the town will have retained its charm, history and love for visitors.

Getting there: Talk to a travel agent to arrange the marathon 30-hour bus trip from Vientiane to Hoi An. Alternatively, flights are available cheaply but with a few connections. First travel to Bangkok. Once you’re there, there are daily flights to Hoi An via Siem Reap, Ha Noi or Ho Chi Minh City with airlines including Bangkok Airways, VietJet Airlines and Thai Airways.

Ancient town

Two boys sit at the river’s edge in the old town wearing bow ties and straw hats as tea lights illuminate their young, Vietnamese faces. Their parents have staged this scene to attract tourists, who are encouraged to snap photos and purchase a candle to float down the Thu Bon River.

Nearby, tourists crowd the Japanese Bridge, lit by dragon lanterns, that spans the water to connect the town. Couples and younger travellers drink local brews at restaurants along the river for 4,000 dong per glass (US$0.2). Vendors grill corn and sift sugar over hot fresh donuts. Travellers on heartier budgets dine at Morning Glory and Tin Tin, well-known and popular restaurants both eating traditional dishes and learning to cook them.

Walking through the old town is like wandering through a European city. Fuchsia flowers fall serenely over store awnings. Narrow passageways challenge cyclists and invite tourists to the waterfront of fish and fruit markets. Vendors sell locally made silk scarves, while tailors like the long-running Yaly (www.yalycouture.com) replicate the latest trends in just 24 hours. Foreign-owned boutiques like AvAna (www.hoiandesign.com) attract women seeking unique, quality clothing.

The old town is easy to access and navigate. Tourists are supposedly

Cycling through the old town centre.

Inside Yaly Couture, one of Hoi An’s longest running tailor shops

ເມອງບຮານ

ເດກນອຍຜຊາຍຫວຽດນາມສອງຄນ ພາກນນງ ຢແຄມນ�ໃນເມອງເກາ ມໂບມດຢຄ ແລະ ມໝວກ ກບຢເທງຫວ, ແລະ ແສງທຽນກສອງສະໄຫວໃສ ໃບໜາອນໜມນອຍຂອງພວກເຂາ. ສວນພແມຂອງພວກເຂາ ກພວມຈດສາກບລເວນນນເພອດງດດນກທອງທຽວ, ໃຫນກທອງທຽວເຂາມາຖາຍຮບ ແລະ ຊທຽນ ເພອໄຫທຽນໄປຕາມ ແມນ� ທ ບງ.

ຢບລເວນໃກໆກນ ກຈະພບເຫນນກທອງທຽວມາ ຊມນມກນຢ ຂວຍປນ ເຊງກາຍຂາມແມນ�ມາ ແລະ ເຊອມເມອງເຂາຫາກນ. ບນດາໜມສາວ ແລະ ນກທອງທຽວ ພາກນນງກນເບຍທອງຖນ ຢຮານອາຫານ ຢຕາມແຄມນ� ໃນລາຄາ 4000 ດງຕຈອກ ($0.2). ຕາມທາງກມລຂາຍອາຫານຕາງໆເຊນ ປງສາລ ແລະ ເຂາໜມໂດນດຮອນໆ. ສ�ລບນກທອງທຽວ ທມເງນຫາຍແດໜອຍໜງ ກຈະມກພາກນກນເຂາ ທຮານອາຫານ ທມຊສຽງໂດງດງ ກຄຮານ ມນງ ກລຣ ແລະ ຮານ ຕນ ຕນ.

ເມອທານຍາງຕາມເມອງເກາແຫງນ ທານຈະຮສກປານກບວາຍາງຢຕາມເມອງໃນເອຣບເລຍ. ທາງຍາງຈະເປນທາງແຄບໆ ແລະ ພາທານໄປຮອດຕະຫາດຂາຍປາ ແລະ ໝາກໄມຢທານ�. ນອກນນ ກມຫາງຮານທຂາຍຜາພນຄໄໝ ທຜະລດຢໃນທອງຖນ ແລະ ກມຮານຕດເຄອງທເປດມາດນ ຄຮານຢາລ (www.yalycouture.com) ເຊງເພນສາມາດຕດເຄອງຮຽນແບບກະແສແຟຊນຫາສດໄດ ພາຍໃນ ເວລາພຽງ 24 ຊວໂມງ. ນອກນນ ກມຮານບຕກ ຂອງຄນຕາງປະເທດ ຄຮານ ອາວານາ (www.hoiandesign.com) ດງດດແມຍງທຕອງການເສອຜາຄນະພາບດ ແລະ ເປນເອກະລກ ແຕກຕາງຈາກບອນອນ.

ເມອງເກາແຫງນ ສາມາດເດນທາງໄປມາໄດງາຍ ແລະ ສະດວກສະບາຍ. ນກທອງທຽວຈະຕອງໄດຈາຍຄາເຂາ 6 ໂດລາ ເພອເຂາໄປບອນອະນລກຮກສາ ເມອງມລະດກໂລກ ຈາກຢເນສໂກ ແຫງນ.

ຢເມອງນ ມຮານອາຫານຫາຍແຫງ ແລະ ມທພກອາໄສຫາຍໆບອນ ລວມທງ ໂຮງແຮມ ຊນຊາຍ (www.sunshinehotelhoian.com) ເຊງພວກເຮາເອງກພກຢນ, ມສະລອຍນ�, ມລະບຽງ ແລະ ອາຫານ ເຊາຟຣ ໃນລາຄາ 560000 ດງຕຄນ ($26). ໂຮງແຮມຫາຍບອນແມນມບລການລດຮບ-ສງ ໄປສະໜາມບນດານງ ຫ ສະຖານລດເມໃກຄຽງ.

ຕອນທພວກເຮາຂລດຖບ ແລະ ຍາງເລາະຢໃນເມອງເກາ, ພວກເຮາກເຫນກມຜຊາຍພາກນຫນເຕະບານ ຢເດນຂອງຊມຊນ, ເຫນເດກນອຍເລກຮຽນແລວກຍາງເມອບານ, ແລະ ເຫນປະຊາຊນພາຍໃນທອງຖນນງກນເຂາ ຢພາຍໃນບານຂອງເຂາເຈາ.

ຮອຍ ອນ ເປນເມອງອນແສນພເສດ ທຂອຍຈະຈດຈ� ໃນຫວໃຈຂອງຂອຍ. ຂອຍຫວງວາມໜງ ຂອຍຈະໄດ ກບມານອກ, ແລະ ກຫວງວາເມອຂອຍກບມາ, ເມອງແຫງນ ຈະຍງຄງຄວາມເປນເອກະລກຄເກາ, ແລະ ຍງຄງເຕມໄປດວຍມນສະເໜ, ປະຫວດສາດ ແລະ ຄວາມເປນມດແກຜທມາຢຽມຢາມຄເກາ.

ການເດນທາງ: ສອບຖາມກບບລສດທອງທຽວ ເພອ ເດນທາງດວຍລດເມ ເຊງຈະໃຊເວລາ 30 ຊວໂມງ ຈາກວຽງຈນຫາຮອຍອນ. ນອກນນ ກມຖຽວບນ ລາຄາບແພງຫາຍ ແຕຕອງຕຍນຫາຍບອນ. ທ�ອດແມນບນໄປບາງກອກ, ແລະ ຈາກບາງກອກ ກມຍນໄປຮອຍອນທກໆມ ຜານຊຽມຣຽບ, ຮາໂນຍ ຫ ໂຮຈມນ ກບສາຍການບນຕາງໆເຊນ ບາງກອກ ແອເວ, ຫວຽດເຈດ ແອລາຍ ແລະ ການບນໄທ.

ຕດເຄອງດວນຮອຍ ອນ ເປນບອນທຂນຊໃນການຕດເສອຜາທມຄນນະພາບດ ແລະ ບແພງຫາຍ. ໃນຂະນະທປະເທດເພອນບານສງກະໂປແມນຂນຊດານການຕດເຄອງຄນະພາບສງ, ຮອຍ ອນ ກໄດພດທະນາຈນກາຍມາ ເປນບອນທມຊສຽງໃນບນດານກທອງທຽວ ໃນການຕດເຄອງຄນະພາບດໃນເວລາພຽງມດຽວ. ທານຈະພບກບຮານຕດເຄອງຫາຍໆຮານຢໃນເມອງ ແລະ ຢເຂດເມອງເກາ. ສລບຜາແພຄນະພາບດປານກາງ ເຊນຜາຝາຍ ລາຄາເລມຕນຈະຢປະມານ 740000 ດງ ($35) ສ�ລບເສອ ແລະ ໂສງໄປການຂອງຜຊາຍ, ແລະ ຊດກະໂປງ ແລະ ກະໂປງ ຂອງແມຍງ.

33

Fuchsia flowers and lanterns brighten many streets in

the ancient town.

A vendor makes fresh sugar donuts

SABAIDEE COVER

Lights, Camera, ACTION..!

Sabaidee’s guide to

the Luang Prabang Film Festival

December 6 - 10

ŐƸijŻļĵ��ģŻļĦijŻļĵ��ōǀŽģĨƥĮ�

ĥňźĵņĺĿįŁĩĪń�ĭƂħĿ�ĮƕijŁĭźŁĮŐƴĺňź�ŌƱĪĺĿģŁĮĽňįŌƪʼnŁƍĹĦijĿįŁĦ

�����ĭơĮĹŁŌƱĪĺĿģŁĮĽňįŌƪʼnŁƍĹĦijĿįŁĦİĿħƕİń�ĥƥĦĭń���ģƕĸơĦħĿĵŁĽļĪĵŁŌưŃĦ�

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ħĿİĿģļįĵńģŁĮĺĿōƮĦĽňįŌƪʼnŁģĹźŁ����ŌƼƄļĦ�ŏƲŐƼĩĿŌƽĸŁ���ĵƋŏƲŌƮņļĮĭơĮĹŁ��ōƼĿ�ģſħĿĵńįơĮĪŁıňŻģƕģơįĽňįŌƪʼnŁƍŁĩőĥƢĮ�ĵŁŌƨƌŁĽźĹĵŏƲĦŁĮ��ĮļģĮƥĮ�ģſĩơĦħĿĵńģŁĮĺŁĩ�ĽňįŌƪʼnŁŌƼƄļĦĺƥĮ��ĵńĦŁĮĹŁĦĺĿōƮĦģźŋĹģơįĽňįŌƪʼnŁ��ĵńģŁĮĺƢĮĭĿĮŁŏƲĻƢĹĤƆīźŁĦő��ijŻļĵ�ĭơĦĩơĦĵńģŁĮĺĿōƮĦŏƲĭŇģőĥƖĥņĮ��ŐƴijŻļĵőģơįģŁĮĺŁĩĽňįŌƪʼnŁħŗŏdžź�ĶňźģŁĦōƫŻĦ�

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Words Gabriel KupermanPhotos courtesy of the Luang Prabang Film Festival

34

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ģŁĮĺŁĩĽňįŌƪʼnŁīźŁĦő�ōƹźĮŌƴńĪŏƿŻĵĿĻŁĨƢĮŌƨƌŁĨƢĵ�ŎƮĩįſŐƮŻ�ŌƾĩĥźŁŏƬŻħźŁĩƛơĦŌƼńĩ�

ĺĿĬŁĮĭƂĺŁĩĽňįŌƪʼnŁģŁĦōƫŻĦ� ōƹźĮĵńįźļĮĮơĦĽļĦĽơįĥƢĮŐƮŻŌưŃĦ�����ĥƢĮ��ōƯźİƢģĿīŃ�ģſĺŁĵŁĪĽļĦĽơįıňŻĨƢĵŐƮŻģĹźŁ������ĥƢĮ�īſģŁĮĺŁĩĽňįŌƪʼnŁŌƼƄļĦŢƃĦ�

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ģŃĪħĿģƕĺƤĦŌƾńĵģŁĮĺŅģĺŁ���ĭŁĦ�ŌƱĪĺĿģŁĮĽňįŌƪʼnŁƍĹĦijĿįŁĦ�ŐƮŻ�ĽźĹĵĵņģơĮģơįįơĮĪŁĺĿĬŁĮĭňĪ��ļƢĦģŁĮħơĪīƥĦĺŁģƢĮ�ōƼĿ�įŗĸŃĺơĪ�ıĿĸŃĪĺƄīźŁĦő�ħơĪĦŁĮIJŅģļƢįĽƢĵ�ōƼĿ�ģŁĮĺƢĮĭĿĮŁ�ŌƷƄļŏƿŻĥĹŁĵĽňŻōƧźįơĮĪŁıňŻıĿĸŃĪĽňįŌƪʼnŁ��

ĦŁĮĺŁĩĽňįŌƪʼnŁijŃŌƾĪ���ĭŁĦŌƱĪ�ĺĿģŁĮ�ĽňįŌƪʼnŁƍĹĦijĿįŁĦ�ŐƮŻħơĪĦŁĮ�ĺŁĩĽňįŌƪʼnŁĺňźĺŁĭŁĸĿĮĿŌƴŀĮİĿħƕ�ŌƷƄļĺƤĦŌƾńĵĹơĪĭĿĮĿĭƕģŁĮŌƳƁĦĽňįŌƪʼnŁŏƲĸŁĹ�ōƼĿ�寣ĦōǁĦįơĮĪŁĮŏƫŏƲģŁĮĺƢĮĭĿĮŁģźŋĹģơįĽňįŌƪʼnŁ�

ģļĦĭŅĮıňŻıĿĸŃĪĽňįŌƪʼnŁĸŁĹ���ĪƕŌƲńĮĦŁĮŎƮĩŌƱĪĺĿģŁĮĽňįŌƪʼnŁ�ƍĹĦijĿįŁĦ��ģļĦĭŅĮĭƂĸĿĪƢĵĭŅĮ�ħŁģĵĿĻŁĨƢĮĮƉ�ōƹźĮĨźĹĩŌƴńĪŎǀģŁĪ�ŏƿŻįơĮĪŁĺŃĸĿİŃĮĶňźĸŁĹĺŁĵŁĪ�ĺĿţơģŌǀʼnŁĭŅĮĨźĹĩŌDŽņļħƕĮĹĮŢƃĦ�ŌƷƄļĨźĹĩŏƿŻŎƩĦģŁĮıĿĸŃĪĽňįŌƪʼnŁ�ĤļĦijĹģŌƨʼnŁ�İĿģƢĪıƢĮŌƴŀĮħŃĦ��ŏƲİńĮƉ��ĭŁĦŌƱĪĺĿģŁĮĽňįŌƪʼnŁ�ƍĹĦijĿįŁĦ�ĺŁĵŁĪĸĿĪƢĵĭŅĮŐƮŻ�ŌưŃĦ�������ŎƮĸŁĺĿĻĿĸơĪ��ŌƬƁĦ�ĭŅĮĪƣĦģźŁĹĮƉ�ōƹźĮħĿĨźĹĩĺĿŢļĦįơĮĪŁıňŻıĿĸŃĪĽňįŌƪʼnŁĸŁĹŎƮĩģƢĦ�

35

Vientiane in Love – Laos (Opening Film and World Premiere)=PLU[PHUL�PU�3V]L�L_WSVYLZ�KPMMLYLU[�HZWLJ[Z�VM�SV]L�[OYV\NO�Ä]L�ZLWHYH[L�Z[VYPLZ!�4VU��H�WYVMLZZPVUHS�WOV[VNYHWOLY��MHSSZ�PU�SV]L�MVY�[OL�ÄYZ[�[PTL"�5V ��H�ÄZOLYTHU»Z�KH\NO[LY��LZJHWLZ�MYVT�OLY�MH[OLY�[V�W\YZ\L�OHWWPULZZ"�9H ��H�ZPUNLY�^OV�NP]LZ�HU�\UMVYNL[[HISL�Z\YWYPZL�[V�OPZ�L_�NPYSMYPLUK"�5PUKH��H�I\ZPULZZ^VTHU�^OV�Z\ZWLJ[Z�OLY�O\ZIHUK�PZ�OH]PUN�HU�HMMHPY�HUK�[OL�`V\UN�^VTHU�^OV�SH[LY�ILJVTLZ�WHY[�VM�5PUKH»Z�YL]LUNL�WSHU"�HUK�3\JR��H�`V\UN�NPYS�^OV�PZ�JH\NO[�H[�H�MHUJ`�YLZ[H\YHU[�^P[O�H�TPKKSL�HNLK�(TLYPJHU�[V\YPZ[��;OLZL�SV]L�Z[VYPLZ�PU�3HVZ»�JHWP[HS�JP[`�JLU[YL�VU�U\HUJLK��H[`WPJHS�YLSH[PVUZOPWZ��;OL�ÄST�PZ�YVTHU[PJ��OLHY[IYLHRPUN�HUK�ZVTL[PTLZ�OPSHYPV\Z�

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36

The Missing Picture – Cambodia-L^�PTHNLZ�L_PZ[�VM�[OL�IY\[HSP[`�\USLHZOLK�VU�*HTIVKPH�I`�7VS�7V[�HUK�[OL�2OTLY�9V\NL�MVSSV^PUN�[OL�2HTW\JOLHU�9L]VS\[PVU�PU�� ����<ZPUN�JSH`�ÄN\YLZ�[V�Z[HUK�PU�MVY�OPTZLSM��OPZ�MHTPS`�HUK�[OL�THU`�*HTIVKPHUZ�^OVZL�SP]LZ�^LYL�KLZ[YV`LK�K\YPUN�[OL�`LHYZ�[OH[�MVSSV^LK��9P[O`�7HUO�YLJYLH[LZ�H�KHYR�HUK�ISVVK`�WLYPVK�PU�OPZ�JV\U[Y`�Z�OPZ[VY �

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ŐǀŎƼŻ�ŐǀŎƼŻ��,OR,OR��ŧ�ĺŃĦģĿŎƴŐǀŎƼŻ� ŐǀŎƼŻ� ĺĿōƮĦŏƿŻŌƿŀĮŌưŃ ĦĺŁĩĺƕijơĮĸĿƠźŁĦĥļįĥƢĹĸŃĵ � ōƼĿ�ōƹźįŻŁĮĥƢĮŏǃźĭƂĨƄĹźŁ� ŌƱŌƻĨŁ� ŌƬƁĦŌƴŀĮĨŁĹĴŃĸŃįİŃĮ� ĭƂĵŁļŁŐƾĶňźĺŃĦģĿŎƴ�ŌƷƄļĨļģĻŁĨńĹŃĪģŁĮŌƴŀĮĶňźĭƂĪńĤƊĮ� ĥņģơĮģơįĩŃĦĴŃĸŃįİŃĮĥƢĮļƄĮő�� ŌƫĩŌƼ��ĸňģĨŁĩĻƢĹĪƋĤļĦĥļįĥƢĹ��ŌƼƂĵĵńĥĹŁĵĺƕijơĮģơįŌƱŌƻĨŁ��ŌƬƁĦijŁĩƍơĦ�ģſįſĵńŏƵŌƽƌŁŌưŃĦŌƱŌƻĨŁŌƼńĩijŁĩŏƲĥļįĥƢĹ��ŌƿĪģŁĮĪƣĦģźŁĹōƹźĮŌƧńĪĤƊĮŏƲİń������ŌƬƁĦŌƴŀĮŐƼĩĿŌƼƂĵīƦĮĤļĦĹŃģŃĪģŁĮĭŁĦĪŻŁĮģŁĮŌƪŃĮŏƲijŁģijƋĮļŁĨń�

37

Madam Phung’s Last Journey – Vietnam-V\UKLK� PU� ������ )PJO� 7O\UN�Z� [YV\WL� VM�MHPYNYV\UK�^VYRLYZ� ^HZ� UHTLK� HM[LY� [OLPY�JOPLM�� 4YZ� 7O\UN�� 0[Z� ���TLTILYZ� JVTL�MYVT� ]HYPV\Z� JP[PLZ� HUK� WYV]PUJLZ��4VZ[� VM�them are transgender women who are poorly LK\JH[LK�� KLZ[P[\[L� HUK�^P[OV\[� HU`� MHTPS`�VY� WYVMLZZPVU�� ;OPZ� KVJ\TLU[HY`� YLJV\U[Z�[OLPY� SP]LZ� VM� JVU[PU\V\Z� WLYMVYTHUJLZ� PU�KPMMLYLU[�SVJH[PVUZ�PU�=PL[UHT��;OLPY�MHPYNYV\UK�H[[YHJ[PVUZ�PUJS\KLK�H�SV[[LY ��H�TPUPH[\YL�[YHPU�YPKL��HU� PUÅH[HISL�OV\ZL��H�TLYY`�NV�YV\UK��balloons and darts and a shotgun aimed at TLTILYZ�^OPSL�[OL`�WLYMVYTLK�ZVUNZ

Pee Mak Phrakanong – Thailand0U�[OL�9H[[HUHRVZPU�2PUNKVT��4HR�SLH]LZ�OPZ�WYLNUHU[�^PML�5HR�[V�QVPU�[OL�^HY�HUK�TLL[Z�MV\Y�ZVSKPLYZ�^OV�ILJVTL�OPZ�ILZ[�MYPLUKZ��+\YPUN�[OPZ�[PTL��OPZ�^PML�5HR�Z[Y\NNSLZ�[V�NP]L�IPY[O�[V�[OLPY�IHI ��>OLU�[OL�^HY�LUKZ��4HR�PU]P[LZ�OPZ�MYPLUKZ�[V�]PZP[�7OYHROHUVUN�HUK�TLL[�5HR��9\TVYZ�JPYJ\SH[L�PU�[OL�[V^U�[OH[�5HR�PZ�HJ[\HSS`�H�NOVZ[��4HR»Z�MV\Y�MYPLUKZ�HUK�[OL�]PSSHNLYZ�[Y`�[V�[LSS�OPT�[OH[�OPZ�^PML�PZ�HSYLHK`�KLHK�

ijƂĵŁģ�ijķĿĤĿŎǂĦ�ŧ�ŐƱŏƲķŁĨĿģŁĮķơĪīĿĮĿŎƧĺŃĮ�� ĵŁģ� ŐƮŻijŁģħŁģŌƹĩĤļĦĸŁĹĭƂĨƄ� ĮŁģ� ŌƬƁĦģƕĸơĦĬņijŁĶňź�ŌƷƄļŐƴŌƨƌŁĽźĹĵĺƢĦĥŁĵ��ōƼĿ�ģſijƢįģơįĭĿĻŁĮ���ĥƢĮŌƬƁĦģŁĩŌƴŀĮţňźĺĿŢŃĪĤļĦĸŁĹ��ŏƲŐƼĩĿĮƉ��ĮŁģ�ŌƹĩĤļĦĸŁĹ�ģſĵńįơĮĻŁŏƲģŁĮŌƧńĪĸňģ��ijŁĩƍơĦĺƢĦĥŁĵĺƈĮĺŇĪ��ĵŁģ�ŐƮŻĨĹĮţňźĤļĦĸŁĹĵŁ�ĶŻŋĵĶŁĵijķĿĤĿŎǂĦ�ŌƷƄļijƢįģơįĮŁģ��īſĵŁģſĵńģŁĮŌƽƌŁīſőģơĮĶňźijŁĩŏƲŌƹņļĦĹźŁĥĹŁĵħŃĦōƼŻĹ�ĮŁģ� ŌƴŀĮıń��ţňźĤļĦĵŁģ���ĥƢĮijŻļĵģơįİĿĨŁĨƢĮijŁĩŏƲįŻŁĮ�ijĿĩŁĩŁĵįļģĵŁģĹźŁŌƹĩĤļĦ�ĸŁĹŐƮŻŌƾĩĨńĹŃĪŐƴōƼŻĹ�

ģŁĮŌƮńĮĭŁĦĬŻŋĹĺŇĪĭŻŁĩĤļĦĵŁĪŁĵĴŇĦ��0DGDP�3KXQJŪV�/DVW�-RXUQH\��ŧ�ƠŋĪĮŁĵĥĿĮĿĮơģĺĿōƮĦīŁĵĦŁĮīĿƍŁĪĮơĪ� įŃģ� ĴŇĦ� 寣ĦīƥĦĤƊĮŏƲİń� ����� ōƼĿ� īƥĦĨƄīŁĵĻƢĹŢŻŁĥĿĮĿĭƂĨƄĹźŁ� ĭźŁĮ� ĮŁĦ� ĴŇĦ��ĥĿĮĿĪƣĦģźŁĹİĿģļįĵńĺĿĵŁĨŃģ����ĥƢĮĭƂĵŁħŁģƍŁģƍŁĩŌƹņļĦ�ōƼĿ�ōƨĹĦ��ĺźĹĮƍŁĩŌƴŀĮģĿŌƱĩĭƂįſŐƮŻĽơįģŁĮĺŅģĺŁ��ĭŇģĩŁģ��įſĵńĥļįĥƢĹ�ōƼĿ�įſĵńĹŃĨŁĨńį��ĺŁĸĿĥĿĪńĮƉ�ŐƮŻĬźŁĩĭļĪĨńĹŃĪĤļĦijĹģŌƨʼnŁ�ıźŁĮģŁĮĺĿōƮĦĶźŁĦīſŌƲƄļĦ�ŏƲƍŁĩőįźļĮŏƲƠŋĪĮŁĵ��ĶňźīŁĵĺĿĬŁĮĭƂ�ĭƂijĹģŌƨʼnŁĺĿōƮĦ�İĿģļįĵń�ĵŻŁţŇĮ��ĸƢĪŐƸĤĿįĹĮĮŻļĩ��Ơĩ��ŌǁņļĮĺňįĸƢĵ��İňĵŌƴƌŁ��ōƼĿ�ĩơĦĵńŌƴƌŁ�ōƼĿ�İņĮĸƢĵ�ōƲŏƾźįơĮĪŁĺĿĵŁĨŃĪ�ŏƲĤĿĮĿĭƂijĹģŌƨʼnŁģƕĸơĦĽŻļĦŌƷĦ�ōƼĿ�ĭƕģŁĮĺĿōƮĦĶňź��

38

Full lineup

������*HTIVKPH�Aroma of Heaven (Indonesia);OL�)VH[I\PSKLYZ�VM�4LYTHPK�0ZSHUK��4HSH`ZPH�)`�[OL�9P]LY��;OHPSHUK�Catnip (Philippines)*VUJYL[L�*SV\KZ��;OHPSHUK�0SV0SV��:PUNHWVYL�Iskalawags (Philippines);OL�1\UNSL�:JOVVS��0UKVULZPH�4HKHT�7O\UN»Z�3HZ[�1V\YUL`��=PL[UHT�;OL�4HUNVLZ��0UKVULZPH�4HY`�PZ�/HWW ��4HY`�PZ�/HWW`��;OHPSHUK�;OL�4PZZPUN�7PJ[\YL��*HTIVKPH�4`�;LHJOLY��3HVZ�The Patriarch (Philippines)7LL�4HR�7OYHRHUVUN��;OHPSHUK�9LHSS`�3V]L��3HVZ�9L[\YU�[V�)\YTH��4`HUTHY�:H`HUN�+PZH`HUN��:PUNHWVYL�:OPM[��7OPSPWWPULZ�:V\[OLHZ[� (ZPHU� *PULTH!�>OLU� [OL� 9VVZ[LY�*YV^Z��:PUNHWVYL�;OL�:VUNZ�VM�9PJL��;OHPSHUK�Jalanan (Indonesia);OL�;LHJOLY»Z�+PHY`��;OHPSHUK�The Talent (Vietnam)TukTuk (Laos)Vientiane in Love (Laos)>L�HYL�4VS\JJHUZ��0UKVULZPH�

ĸŁĩĨƄĽňįŌƪʼnŁŌƨƌŁĺŁĩĭơĦţƢĪ������ģƕİňŌƫĩ�$URPD�RI�+HDYHQ��ļŃĮŎƮŌƲŌƬĩ�7KH�%RDWEXLOGHUV�RI�0HUPDLG�,VODQG��ĵŁŌƼŌƬĩ�%\�WKH�5LYHU��ŐƱ�&DWQLS��ĴŃĸŃįİŃĮ�&RQFUHWH�&ORXGV��ŐƱ�,OR,OR��ĺŃĦģĿŎƴ�,VNDODZDJV��ĴŃĸŃįİŃĮ��7KH�-XQJOH�6FKRRO��ļŃĮŎƮŌƲŌƬĩ�0DGDP�3KXQJŪV�/DVW�-RXUQH\��ƠŋĪĮŁĵ�7KH�0DQJRHV��ļŃĮŎƮŌƲŌƬĩ�0DU\�LV�+DSS\��0DU\�LV�+DSS\��ŐƱ�7KH�0LVVLQJ�3LFWXUH��ģƕİňŌƫĩ�0\�7HDFKHU��ĸŁĹ�7KH�3DWULDUFK��ĴŃĸŃįİŃĮ�3HH�0DN�3KUDNDQRQJ��ŐƱ�5HDOO\�/RYH��ĸŁĹ�5HWXUQ�WR�%XUPD��ĵŋĮĵŁ�6D\DQJ�'LVD\DQJ��ĺŃĦģĿŎƴ�6KLIW��ĴŃĸŃįİŃĮ�6RXWKHDVW�$VLDQ�&LQHPD��:KHQ�WKH�5RRVWHU�&URZV���ĺŃĦģĿŎƴ�7KH�6RQJV�RI�5LFH��ŐƱ�-DODQDQ��ļŃĮŎƮŌƲŌƬĩ�7KH�7HDFKHUŪV�'LDU\��ŐƱ�7KH�7DOHQW��ƠŋĪĮŁĵ�7XN7XN��ĸŁĹ�9LHQWLDQH�LQ�/RYH��ĸŁĹ�:H�DUH�0ROXFFDQV��ļŃĮŎƮŌƲŌƬĩ�

39

For the full schedule and the latest information about the festival, check V\[�37--»Z�^LIZP[L��^^ �SWÄSTMLZ[�VYN��VY� QVPU�TVYL�[OHU��������V[OLY�MVSSV^LYZ�VU�[OL�MLZ[P]HS»Z�WVW\SHY�-HJLIVVR�WHNL��^^ �MHJLIVVR�JVT�SWÄSTMLZ[���;OVZL�SVVRPUN�[V�H[[LUK�[OL�MLZ[P]HS�JHU�IVVR�[OLPY�[YPW�^P[O�,_V�;YH]LS��HU�VMÄJPHS�WHY[ULY�VM�[OL�VYNHUPZLYZ��

Short and sweet(SS����:V\[OLHZ[�(ZPHU�KVJ\TLU[HY`� ÄSTZ� MYVT�+VJ5L[�Z�ZLJVUK�*OVW:OV[Z� JVSSLJ[PVU� �Z\WWVY[LK� I`� [OL�.VL[OL�0UZ[P[\L�� PSS�IL�ZJYLLULK�H[�[OL�MLZ[P]HS��;OL�ÄUHSPZ[Z�MYVT�[OPZ�`LHY»Z�;YVWMLZ[�:,(�¶�HU�VMMZOVV[�MYVT�[OL�^VYSK»Z� SHYNLZ[�ZOVY[�ÄST�MLZ[P]HS�¶�^PSS�HSZV�IL�ZOV^U��HSVUN�^P[O�ZLSLJ[PVUZ�MYVT�[OL�=PLU[PHUHSL»Z�ZOVY[�ÄST�JVTWL[P[PVU��;OPZ�^PSS�NP]L�ZVTL�VM�3HVZ»�SVJHS�ÄSTTHRLYZ�H�JOHUJL�[V�ZOV^�[OLPY� VYR�[V�HU�PU[LYUH[PVUHS�H\KPLUJL��

ĽňįŌƪʼnŁŌƼƄļĦĺƥĮįơĮĪŁĺŁĸĿĥĿĪńļŁĨńīŁŌƽŀĮļļģĺźŋĦŏƯŻĭơĦţƢĪ� ��� ŌƼƄļĦħŁģ�ĨŽļįĺŽļĪĨŇĪĭńĺļĦ� ĤļĦĪŽļģŌƲŀĪ� �ĺĿŢơįĺĿŢňĮŎƮĩĺĿĬŁįơĮŎƧĪ��ħĿĬņģĮƕĵŁĺŁĩŏƲŌƱĪĺĿģŁĮĪƣĦģźŁĹ��ĮļģĮƥĮ��įơĮĪŁĽňįŌƪʼnŁĭƂŌƨƌŁĽļįĺŇĪĭŻŁĩİńĮƉŏƲĦŁĮ�ĭķļįŌƸĺ�Ĩń� �7URSIHVW�6($��ŌƬƁĦŌƴŀĮĺźĹĮŢƃĦĤļĦ�ĦŁĮŌƱĪĺĿģŁĮĽňįŌƪʼnŁŌƼƄļĦĺƥĮĭƂŏdžźĭƂĺŇĪŏƲŎƼģ�ģſĩơĦħĿŐƮŻĮƕĵŁĺŁĩŏƲŌƱĪĺĿģŁĮĪƣĦģźŁĹ��ijŻļĵģơįįơĮĪŁĽňįŌƪʼnŁŌƼƄļĦĺƥĮħŁģģŁĮōƨźĦĤơĮĽňįŌƪʼnŁŌƼƄļĦĺƥĮ�ĹŋĦħơĮĮŁĮ��ŌƴŀĮģŁĮŌƴńĪŎǀģŁĪŏƿŻıňŻıĿĸŃĪĽňįŌƪʼnŁĤļĦĸŁĹ�ŐƮŻĵńŎǀģŁĪĺĿōƮĦIJńĵņĤļĦijĹģŌƨʼnŁ�ŏƿŻōƧźıňŻĨƢĵĮŁőĨŁĪ�

The SEA Movie Theatre Project

=PZP[VYZ�JHU�L_WLJ[�HU�\WKH[L�VU�[OL�:V\[OLHZ[�(ZPH�4V]PL�;OLH[YL�7YVQLJ[��HU�VUNVPUN�HJ[P]P[`�VM�37--�[OH[�KVJ\TLU[Z�[OL�YLTHPUPUN�Z[HUK�HSVUL�TV]PL� [OLH[LYZ� VM� [OL� [LU� :V\[OLHZ[�(ZPHU�JV\U[YPLZ��HZ�^LSS�HZ�HK]VJH[LZ�MVY�[OLPY�WYLZLY]H[PVU�VY�YLW\YWVZPUN��7OPSPW�1HISVU��[OL�WYVQLJ[»Z�KPYLJ[VY�� PSS�NP]L�H�WYLZLU[H[PVU�VU�[OL�WYVQLJ[»Z�SH[LZ[�Z\JJLZZLZ��OH]PUN�Q\Z[�YLJLU[S`�ZWVRLU�H[�*OPHUN�4HP»Z�;,+_�JVUMLYLUJL��

ŎƩĦģŁĮŎǁĦĽňįŌƪʼnŁ�ļŁĨńīŁŌƽŀĮļļģĺźŋĦŏƯŻįơĮĪŁıňŻŌƨƌŁĨƢĵ� ĩơĦħĿŐƮŻĽơįĽňŻĤƆĵňĮģźŋĹģơįŎƩĦģŁĮ� ŎǁĦĽňįŌƪʼnŁ�ļŁĨńīŁŌƽŀĮļļģĺźŋĦŏƯŻ� ŌƬƁĦŌƴŀĮģŃĪħĿģƕļơĮīſŌƲƄļĦ� ĤļĦĭŁĦ�ŌƱĪĺĿģŁĮĽňįŌƪʼnŁƍĹĦijĿįŁĦ�ŎƮĩŐƮŻĬźŁĩĭƕ�įơĮĪŁŎǁĦĽňįŌƪʼnŁĭƂƍƢĦŌDŽņļĶňź��ŏƲ����İĿŌƱĪŏƲļŁĨńīŁŌƽŀĮļļģĺźŋĦŏƯŻ��ijŻļĵĭơĦĺƤĦŌƾńĵ�ŏƿŻİƢģİơģĽơģĺŁįơĮĪŁŎǁĦĽňįŌƪʼnŁĪƣĦģźŁĹ�ƍņ�ĮƕŏƬŻŏƲħŇĪİĿĺƢĦļƄĮ��ĴŃĸŃį�ħŁŎƳĸĮ��ıňŻįŗĸŃĻŁĮŎƩĦģŁĮĪƣĦģźŁĹ��ħĿŐƮŻĮƕĺĿŌǂńģźŋĹģơįĥĹŁĵĺƕŌƼŀĪƍŻŁĺŇĪĤļĦŎƩĦģŁĮ� ijŁĩƍơĦĭƂĻŁģſŐƮŻĤƊĮģźŁĹŏƲĦŁĮĺƕĵĿĮŁ�ŌƱĪŌǀŀģ��7('[��ŏƲĨŋĦŏǃź�

ĭźŁĮĺŁĵŁĪŌƨƌŁŌƳƁĦīŁīĿĸŁĦĭơĦţƢĪ� ōƼĿ� ĽơįĽňŻĤƆĵňĮĤźŁĹĺŁĮƍŻŁĺŇĪģźŋĹģơįŌƱĪĺĿģŁĮ�ŐƮŻĭƂŌƽŀįŐƬŻĤļĦŌƱĪĺĿģŁĮĽňįŌƪʼnŁƍĹĦijĿįŁĦĭƂ�ZZZ�OSILOPIHVW�RUJ�ƍņ� ŌƨƌŁŐƴĭƂŢŻŁŌƸĺįŇģĤļĦijĹģŌǁʼnŁĭƂĵńĥƢĮīŃĪīŁĵģĹźŁ� ������ĥƢĮŐƮŻĭƂ�ZZZ�IDFHERRN�FRP�OSILOPIHVW��

40

The Good Guide

ĥňźĵņōƲĿĮƕĪńőĥňŒĵņōĮĿĮłĤļĦĺĿįŁĩĪń� ĮłijŁĭŒŁĮŐİĺňŒĺŃŒĦĭńŒĪńĭńŒĺŇĪ� įŗŒĹŒŁħĿ�ŌİŀĮįŒļĮŌįŃŒĦ�� įŒļĮĭŒŋĹ�� įŒļĮģŃĮ� ōĸĿ�įŒļĮĪņŒĵĶňŒŏĮīʼnĹŌĵņļĦ�ĤļĦĸŁĹ�

ŏĮŌĪņļĮĮńœ� ijĹģŌĽʼnŁĮłĺĿŌŢńįŀĮĪŁļŁĻŁĮŏĮĮĿĥļĮĻŊĹĦĹŋĦħơĮĭƂįſĥźļĩĵńĥƢĮĽňŻħơģ�įſĹźŁħĿŌƴŀĮļŁĻŁĮŎǁĮĸơĦ��ļŃĮŎƮŌƲŌƬĩ��ĴŃĸŃİŃĮ� ōĸĿ�ļŁĻŁĮīĹģģń� ŌĨŃŒĦijĹģŌĽʼnŁijŁĭŒŁĮŐİĥʼnœĮijʼnįĽœŁĮ�ļŁĻŁĮĪƣĦģźŁĹŌưŃĦĭƂŌƼńĩ�

ĮļģĮŀœĮōĸœĹ� ijĹģŌĽʼnŁģŗŒĩŀĦijŁĭŒŁĮŐİĸŃœĵĸļĦ� ļŁĻŁĮİńœĦijņœĮ�ŌƹņļĦĩƂİŇźĮ�ĸƢĪĨŁĪĪƥĦŌƮńĵ�ĭƂĽŻŁĮ�ĺŇĵŃįŃĶŁģŃŎƱķŃĨŃŌƧĿ��ijŻļĵĭơĦ�įơĮĪŁĺĿĬŁĮĭƂīźŁĦő�ĭƂĬņģŏƫijĹģŌǁʼnŁŏƲĭƤĹĸŁĹ�ĶňźŏƲĸŁĩģŁĮ�($7��'5,1.��6/((3��5(/$;��6+23�ōƼĿ�6((��'2�OLVW-LQJV�ĤļĦijĹģŌǁʼnŁ�

Sabaidee’s guide to the very best things to see, do, eat and drink in the country’s urban centres.This month we showcase some of Vientiane’s lesser-known cuisines. Dutch, Indonesian, Filipino and Turkish food in the capital? We ZOV^�`V\�^OLYL�[V�ÄUK�P[���

We then get a taste of authentic barbecue Japanese at Sumibiyaki Torishige, along with our usual curated list of our favourite places around Laos in our EAT, DRINK, SLEEP, RELAX, SHOP and SEE & DO listings.

41

ECLECTIC EATS

SABAIDEE'S GUIDE TOwords & photos Shayling Ngo

VIENTIANE IS HOME TO A PLETHORA OF FANTASTIC LAO, THAI AND FRENCH RESTAURANTS. BUT THIS IS A CITY OF INCREASINGLY DIVERSE TASTE, AS EXPATRIATES FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD SETTLE IN LAOS AND BRING THE TASTES OF HOME WITH THEM. WHAT UNIQUE, UNEXPECTED CUISINES HAVE FOUND A HOME IN THE STREETS OF THE LAO CAPITAL?

SABAIDEE MAGAZINE VENTURES OFF THE BEATEN PLATE TO EXPLORE SOME OF VIENTIANE’S RARE CUISINES

42

ISTANBUL RESTAURANT – TURKISH Located on busy downtown street Francois Ngin, Istanbul Restaurant

offers the ultimate comfort food amidst the hustle and bustle of the

city. The minimalistic interior – complete with regal wallpaper and

simple photography of the Turkish city after which it is named – pro-

vides a nice place to relax and unwind. The extensive menu includes

authentic Turkish dishes such as falafel, doner kebab and pita bread

with hummus. Combined with a tasty salty ayran, you will be instantly

[YHUZWVY[LK�[V�[OL�OVTL`�ÅH]V\YZ�VM�;\YRL ��6\[KVVY�[LYYHJL�ZLH[PUN�is available.

T: 020 7797 8187

A: Francois Ngin Road, Ban Mixay, Chanthabouly district, Vientiane

Open: Daily 10am-10pm

COME BACK RESTAURANT – DUTCH Hidden on a quiet road away from the bustle of downtown, this small café serves hearty, traditional Dutch treats that are best shared with

friends and enjoyed with an ice-cold beer. The simple interior and minimal seating make for a cosy setting, as if you are visiting a friend’s home

MVY�HM[LYUVVU�[LH��;OL�TLU\�PUJS\KLZ�O\TISL�KPZOLZ�Z\JO�HZ�[OL�MHTV\Z�IP[[LYIHSSLU��VVaPUN�^P[O�ÅH]V\Y��;OL�WLH�ZV\W�PZ�[HZ[`�HUK�JVTMVY[PUN��while sweet-tooths will adore the stroopwafel. There is an extensive selection of coffees and teas on offer – the tiramisu latte is a must-try. A

branch of the Express Café franchise, Come Back Restaurant only recently opened in June this year, with the aim of appealing to Dutch expats

HZ�^LSS�HZ�H�ZPNUPÄJHU[�U\TILY�VM�3HV�JSPLU[LSL�^OV�JVTL�[V�LUQV`�[OLPY�YLHZVUHIS`�WYPJLK�3HV�HUK�;OHP�KPZOLZ��

T: 020 5530 1806

A: Ban Sybounheung, Vientiane (across from Sisavath Secondary School)

W: www.facebook.com/Come.Back.Restaurant

Open: Monday-Wednesday 8am-5pm, Thursday-Saturday 8am-9pm

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WARUNG EKO – INDONESIAN >HY\UN�,RV�IYPUNZ�[OL�ÅH]V\YZ�VM�0UKVULZPH�YPNO[�[V�V\Y�KVVYZ[LW�PU�Vientiane. The small, unassuming restaurant is located just behind

[OL�SLHM`�HUK�THQLZ[PJ�>H[�7OVUL_H ��6US`�VWLU�MVY�S\UJO��[OL�OVTL`�YLZ[H\YHU[�ZLY]LZ�ÄSSPUN�WVY[PVUZ�JVVRLK�PU�[OL�V\[KVVY�RP[JOLU��;OL�ZWPJ ��ÅH]V\YZVTL�MYPLK�[VM\� P[O�0UKVULZPHU�RLJHW�ZH\JL�VY�[YHKP[PVUHS�meat dishes like rendang are all exceptionally tasty. For more adven-

[\YV\Z�MVVKPLZ��[OL�MYPLK�ÄZO�LNNZ�HUK�JOPJRLU�RULLZ�HYL�H�IYH]L�I\[�rewarding choice. The Indonesian menu is only on offer on Mondays,

Wednesdays and Fridays, so get in as soon as you can. The menu

also includes Thai dishes.

T: 021 450 044, 020 5450 0440

A: Ban Phonexay, Xaysettha district, Vientiane (behind Wat Phonexay)

Open: Monday-Friday 8am-2pm

BAHAY PINOY – FILIPINO The cutesy, colourful dining room with sofa seating shows off the odd

quirks of Bahay Pinoy from the moment you walk through the doors.

This hidden gem showcases delectable Filipino cuisine served in a

laidback, simplistic style. A cuisine often associated with homemade,

hearty meals passed down in family recipes, Bahay Pinoy did not dis-

appoint. The menu includes the Filipino favourites of pork sinigang, a

tangy tamarind based soup with pork belly and vegetables; tapsilog,

a breakfast dish of cured meat served with fried rice and fried egg;

and beef adobo, beef marinated with spices such as garlic, vinegar

and peppercorns. The restaurant also offers Western-style breakfasts

and traditional Lao meals.

T: 020 5897 3999, 030 990 9061

A: Bourichane Road, Ban Phonsinuan, Sisattanak district, Vientiane

Open: Daily 8am-10pm

44

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įŁĽŁĩ�İńĮŻļĩ���ĴŃĸŃİŃĮ�ĽŻŁ Į ļ Ł Ļ Ł Į ĮƉĵń ĺń ĺơĮ ĺƢŏ ƾ � īƢģ ō ƯźĦ�ōƳįŢŻŁĽơģő� ijŻļĵįźļĮĮƣĦĭƂŌƴŀĮ� ŎƬĴŁ�ŌƬƁĦĭźŁĮħĿĺƕıơĪŐƮŻŌưŃĦģƁĮļŁĩļơĮōƴģŏǃźĤļĦĽŻŁĮĮƉ�ĮơįīƥĦōƯźĹŃĮŁĭńĭƂĭźŁĮģŻŁĹŌƨƌŁĺňźİĿīňĽŻŁĮ��ĽŻŁĮĮŻļĩőĮƉ�įſĥźļĩĵńĥƢĮ�ĽňŻħơģ � ōƯźĭŁĦĽŻŁĮĵńļŁĻŁĮijƋĮ ŌƹņļĦ�ĴŃĸŃİŃĮĭƂŌƴŀĮīŁōƬįƍŁĩŌƭƄļĦ�� ŌƾńįōƳį�ĭƕĵĿĪŁő��ŌƬƁĦļŁĻŁĮĴŃĸŃİŃĮĮƉ�ĺźĹĮƍŁĩħĿ�ŌƴŀĮļŁĻŁĮĭƂİŇĦōƯźĦijŁĩŏƲŌǁņļĮ�ģơįĺňĪļŁĻŁĮ�ōƬįő�ĭƂīƢģĭļĪĵŁħŁģĽŇźĮĥƢĮģźļĮőŏƲĥļįĥƢĹ�ĭƂĭźŁĮĨŃĵōƼŻĹħĿįſıŃĪƠơĦ��ŌƹĮňĶňźĽŻŁĮĮƉ� ĸĹĵĵńļŁĻŁĮĴŃĸŃİŃĮĭƂĬņģŏƫƍŁĩőĥƢĮ� ŌƬƀĮ� ţňĨŃĮŃōƧĦ��ŌƬƁĦŌƴŀĮōƧĦţŁģĤŁĵŏƾźijƋĮĭŻļĦţň�ōƼĿ�ıơģ��īơįĨńĸơļģ��ŌƬƁĦŌƴŀĮļŁĻŁĮŌƬƌŁ�ĵńĨƉĮĨļĩįŁĦő�ģŃĮģơįŌƨƌŁıơĪ�ōƼĿ�ħņĮŐƨź��ōƼĿ�ĵń�ĦƢĹļĿŎƮŎƳ��ŌƬƁĦŌƴŀĮĨƉĮĦƢĹ�ţơģģơįŌƩƄļĦŌƱĪ� ŌƬƀĮģĿĭŋĵ�� ĮƗĺƦĵĺŁĩĨň� ōƼĿ� ijŃģŐƱ�� ĮļģĮƥĮ�ĭŁĦĽŻŁĮģſĩơĦĵńļŁĻŁĮŌƬƌŁ�ōƳįīźŁĦİĿŌƱĪ�ōƼĿ�ļŁĻŁĮijƋĮŌƹņļĦĸŁĹĮƕ�

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ĮĿĥļĮƍĹĦĹŋĦħơĮ�ŌƴŀĮōDŽźĦĭƂŌƯŀĵŐƴĪŻĹĩĽŻŁĮļŁĻŁĮōƬįőƍŁģƍŁĩōƿźĦ�ŎƮĩĺĿŌƷŁĿōƹźĮļŁĻŁĮ�ĸŁĹ��ŐƱ�ōƼĿ�IJķƣĦ��ĮļģħŁģĮƥĮōƼŻĹ�İơĪħŇįơĮ�ģſŌƼƂĵĵńļŁĻŁĮļơĮōƴģŏǃźŌƷƂĵĤƊĮĶźŁĦīſŌƲƄļĦŏƲĹŋĦħơĮ�ŌƲƄļĦħŁģĹźŁĵńĥƢĮīźŁĦİĿŌƱĪħŁģĭŇģĻƢĮōƿźĦŏƲĭƤĹŎƼģ�ŐƮŻĩƢģĩŻŁĩĬƁĮĬŁĮ�ŌƨƌŁĵŁļŁŏƾĶňźŏƲĸŁĹ�ōƼĿ�ģſŐƮŻĮƕŌǀʼnŁļŁĻŁĮħŁģįŻŁĮŌƧńĪŌƹņļĦĮļĮĤļĦijĹģŌƨʼnŁīŃĪīƢĹĵŁĮƕ��ŌǁʼnŁĵŁŌƳƁĦģơĮĹźŁ�İơĪħŇįơĮ�ŏƲīƢĹŌƹņļĦĹŋĦħơĮ�ĵńļŁĻŁĮĭƂōƴģŏǃźƛơĦōƮź�ĭƂōƯģīźŁĦŐƴħŁģļŁĻŁĮĭƤĹőŐƴ�ĭƂijĹģŌǁʼnŁŌƩńĩģŃĮģơĮ"

ĹŁĸĿĺŁĮ�ĺĿįŁĩĪń�ijŁĭźŁĮļļģħŁģŌƹĮňōƳįŌƮńĵő�ōƼŻĹŐƴĺơĮĻŁļŁĻŁĮģŁĮģŃĮļơĮōƴģŏǃź�ĭƂĻŁŐƮŻĩŁģ�ŏƲīƢĹŌƹņļĦĹŋĦħơĮ

ĺơĮĻŁļŁĻŁĮģŁĮģŃĮļơĮōƴģŏǃź

ĹŁķŇĦ�ŌǀŎƧ�ŧ�ļŃĮŎƮŌƲŌƬĩ�ĽŻŁĮ� ĹŁķŇĦ� ŌǀŎƧ� ĮƕļŁĻŁĮĸƢĪĨŁĪ�ōƬįő�ĤļĦļŃĮŎƮŌƲŌƬĩ�ĵŁĺňźĮĿĥļĮ�ƍĹĦĹŋĦħơĮ��ĽŻŁĮĮŻļĩőĭƂŌƳƁĦįſĥņĽŻŁĮ�ļŁĻŁĮĮƉ� īƥĦĶňźĭŁĦƍơĦĹơĪŎƷĮŐƬļơĮ�ĽƤĵŌƺŀĮ� ŌƬƁĦŌƴńĪŏƿŻįŗĸŃģŁĮĺĿŌƷŁĿ�īļĮĺĹŁĩŌƱƅŁĮƥĮ�� ĽŻŁĮĪƣĦģźŁĹŏƿŻ�ĥĹŁĵĽňŻĺŅģĥņĶňźįŻŁĮŌƬƁĦļŁĻŁĮĶňźĽŻŁĮĮƉ�ōƹźĮĥƢĹĶňźŌǁņļĮĥƢĹĶňźĪŻŁĮĮļģ�ļŁĻŁĮĭƂĤƊĮ�ĨƄģſĵń�ħņĮŌƯʼnŁĽňŻŏƾźĨļĺŌƩħơį�ĸƢĪĨŁĪŌƵŀĪőōƬį��ƍņ� ĤƦĹĨƉĮijƋĮŌƹņļĦŌƬƀĮ� ŌƻŀĮĪơĦģſĵńĸƢĪĨŁĪōƬįĨŻļĩŌƬƀĮĪŋĹģơĮ��ĺƕĸơįıňŻĭƂĵơģļŁĻŁĮōƴģőīŻļĦŐƮŻĸļĦĨŃĵħņĮŐƨźİŁ� ōƼĿ� ŌƨƅŁŐƧź��ļŁĻŁĮļŃĮŎƮŌƲŌƬĩōƬįőĮƉ�ōƹźĮĵńōƯźĺĿŌƷŁĿĭŇģőĹơĮħơĮ��ĹơĮijŇĪ�ōƼĿ�ĹơĮĺŇģŌƱƅŁĮƥĮ��ĺźĹĮĵƋļƄĮő�ōƹźĮŌƾńįļŁĻŁĮŐƱ�

ŎƱ�����������������������������ĭƂĶňź��įŻŁĮŎƷĮŐƬ��ŌƹņļĦŐƬŌƬĪĬŁ��ĮĿĥļĮƍĹĦĹŋĦħơĮ��ƍơĦĹơĪŎƷĮŐƬ�ŌƴńĪ��ĹơĮħơĮ�ĹơĮĺŇģ���ŎƹĦŌƬƌŁ��ŎƹĦĺĹŁĩ�

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The Good Guide

ຄມແນະນຳດໆຄມແນະນຳຂອງສະບາຍດ ນຳພາທານໄປສສງທດທສດ ບວາຈະ ເປນບອນເບງ, ບອນທຽວ, ບອນກນ ແລະ ບອນດມຢໃນຕວເມອງ ຂອງລາວ.

ໃນເດອນນ ພວກເຮານຳສະເໜບນດາອາຫານໃນນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນທບຄອຍມຄນຮຈກ ບວາຈະເປນອາຫານໂຮນລງ, ອນໂດເນເຊຍ, ຟລປນ ແລະ ອາຫານຕວກກ ເຊງພວກເຮາພາທານໄປຄນພບຮານ ອາຫານດງກາວເຖງທເລຍ!

ນອກນນແລວ ພວກເຮາກຍງພາທານໄປລມລອງ ອາຫານປງພນ ເມອງຍປນ ລດຊາດດງເດມ ທຮານ ສມບຢາກໂທຣຊເກະ, ພອມທງ ບນດາສະຖານທຕາງໆ ທຖກໃຈພວກເຮາໃນທວລາວ ຢໃນລາຍການ EAT, DRINK, SLEEP, RELAX, SHOP ແລະ SEE & DO list-ings ຂອງພວກເຮາ.

Sabaidee’s guide to the very best things to see, do, eat and drink in the country’s urban centres.This month we showcase some of Vientiane’s lesser-known cuisines. Dutch, Indonesian, Filipino and Turkish food in the capital? We show you where to find it!

We then get a taste of authentic barbecue Japanese at Sumibiyaki Torishige, along with our usual curated list of our favourite places around Laos in our EAT, DRINK, SLEEP, RELAX, SHOP and SEE & DO listings.

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ECLECTIC EATS

SABAIDEE'S GUIDE TOwords & photos Shayling Ngo

VIENTIANE IS HOME TO A PLETHORA OF FANTASTIC LAO, THAI AND FRENCH RESTAURANTS. BUT THIS IS A CITY OF INCREASINGLY DIVERSE TASTE, AS EXPATRIATES FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD SETTLE IN LAOS AND BRING THE TASTES OF HOME WITH THEM. WHAT UNIQUE, UNEXPECTED CUISINES HAVE FOUND A HOME IN THE STREETS OF THE LAO CAPITAL?

SABAIDEE MAGAZINE VENTURES OFF THE BEATEN PLATE TO EXPLORE SOME OF VIENTIANE’S RARE CUISINES

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ISTANBUL RESTAURANT – TURKISH Located on busy downtown street Francois Ngin, Istanbul Restaurant offers the ultimate comfort food amidst the hustle and bustle of the city. The minimalistic interior – complete with regal wallpaper and simple photography of the Turkish city after which it is named – pro-vides a nice place to relax and unwind. The extensive menu includes authentic Turkish dishes such as falafel, doner kebab and pita bread with hummus. Combined with a tasty salty ayran, you will be instantly transported to the homey flavours of Turkey. Outdoor terrace seating is available.

T: 020 7797 8187

A: Francois Ngin Road, Ban Mixay, Chanthabouly district, Vientiane

Open: Daily 10am-10pm

COME BACK RESTAURANT – DUTCH Hidden on a quiet road away from the bustle of downtown, this small café serves hearty, traditional Dutch treats that are best shared with friends and enjoyed with an ice-cold beer. The simple interior and minimal seating make for a cosy setting, as if you are visiting a friend’s home for afternoon tea. The menu includes humble dishes such as the famous bitterballen, oozing with flavour. The pea soup is tasty and comforting, while sweet-tooths will adore the stroopwafel. There is an extensive selection of coffees and teas on offer – the tiramisu latte is a must-try. A branch of the Express Café franchise, Come Back Restaurant only recently opened in June this year, with the aim of appealing to Dutch expats as well as a significant number of Lao clientele who come to enjoy their reasonably priced Lao and Thai dishes.

T: 020 5530 1806

A: Ban Sybounheung, Vientiane (across from Sisavath Secondary School)

W: www.facebook.com/Come.Back.Restaurant

Open: Monday-Wednesday 8am-5pm, Thursday-Saturday 8am-9pm

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WARUNG EKO – INDONESIAN Warung Eko brings the flavours of Indonesia right to our doorstep in Vientiane. The small, unassuming restaurant is located just behind the leafy and majestic Wat Phonexay. Only open for lunch, the homey restaurant serves filling portions cooked in the outdoor kitchen. The spicy, flavoursome fried tofu with Indonesian kecap sauce or traditional meat dishes like rendang are all exceptionally tasty. For more adven-turous foodies, the fried fish eggs and chicken knees are a brave but rewarding choice. The Indonesian menu is only on offer on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, so get in as soon as you can. The menu also includes Thai dishes.

T: 021 450 044, 020 5450 0440

A: Ban Phonexay, Xaysettha district, Vientiane (behind Wat Phonexay)

Open: Monday-Friday 8am-2pm

BAHAY PINOY – FILIPINO The cutesy, colourful dining room with sofa seating shows off the odd quirks of Bahay Pinoy from the moment you walk through the doors. This hidden gem showcases delectable Filipino cuisine served in a laidback, simplistic style. A cuisine often associated with homemade, hearty meals passed down in family recipes, Bahay Pinoy did not dis-appoint. The menu includes the Filipino favourites of pork sinigang, a tangy tamarind based soup with pork belly and vegetables; tapsilog, a breakfast dish of cured meat served with fried rice and fried egg; and beef adobo, beef marinated with spices such as garlic, vinegar and peppercorns. The restaurant also offers Western-style breakfasts and traditional Lao meals.

T: 020 5897 3999, 030 990 9061

A: Bourichane Road, Ban Phonsinuan, Sisattanak district, Vientiane

Open: Daily 8am-10pm

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ຮານອາຫານ ອສຕານບລ– ຕວກກ ຮາ ນ ອ າ ຫ າ ນ ອ ສ ຕ າ ນ ບ ລ ຕງ ຢຖ ະ ໜນ ຝຣງຊວາ ຫງນ ຢໃນເມອງ ເຊງເສບອາຫານ ທສ�ຜດໄດເຖງກນອາຍຄວາມອບອນ ໃນທາ ມ ກ າ ງ ຄ ວ າ ມ ສບ ສນ ວນ ວ າ ຍ ຂ ອ ງ ຕວ ເມອງ. ຢພາຍໃນຮານມການຕກແຕງແບບຮຽບງາຍ ເໝາະແກການພກຜອນຢອນໃຈ ກບວເປເປລວດລາຍງດງາມ ແລະ ຮບພາບຂອງເມອງແຫງໜງໃນປະເທດຕວກກ ເຊງເປນທມາ ຂອງຊຮານ ກຄເມອງອສຕານບລນນເອງ. ເມນພາຍໃນຮານ ມອາຫານຫາກຫາຍ ລວມທງອາຫານອນເປນເອກະລກຂອງຕວກກ ກຄ ຟາລາເຟລ (ຈນລກຊນ), ໂດເນ ເຄບບ (ຊນຊອຍກນກບແປງ), ແລະ ເຂາຈພຕາ ກບ ຮ�ມສ. ອາຫານດງກາວນ ກນຄກນກບອາຍຣານ (ນມສມຕວກກ) ລດຊາດເຄມໆແຊບໆ ແລວທານຈະຮສກວາ ທານກ�ລງຮບປະທານອາຫານຢໃນປະເທດຕວກກເລຍ. ນອກຈາກບອນນງທາງໃນແລວ ທານກຍງສາມາດນງຮບປະທານອາຫານ ແລະ ດມດ�ກບບນຍາກາດຢດານນອກນ�ອກ.

ໂທ: 020 7797 8187 ທຢ: ຖະໜນ ຝຣງຊວາ ຫງນ, ບານມໄຊ, ເມອງຈນທະບລ, ນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນເປດ:ທກມ, 10ໂມງເຊາ-10ໂມງກາງຄນ

ຮານອາຫານ ຄຳ ແບກ – ໂຮນລງ

ຮານກາເຟນອຍໆນ ຕງຢແຖວສບນເຮອງ ຫາ ງ ຈ າ ກ ຕວ ເ ມ ອ ງ ອນ ວນ ວ າ ຍ , ເ ປ ນຮາ ນ ທເ ສ ບ ອ າ ຫ າ ນ ພນ ເ ມ ອ ງ ໂ ຮ ນ ລງແຊບໆ ເໝາະແກການກນຮວມກນກບໝ ຄ ໄ ປ ພອ ມ ໆ ກບ ກ າ ນ ຈ ບ ເ ບ ຍ ເ ຢ ນ ໆ . ທາງໃນບໄດມການຕກແຕງຫາຍ, ບອນນງ ກບຫາຍ, ເຮດໃຫຮສກສະບາຍໆ ເປນກນເອງ ພປານວາ ມາຢຽມຢາມຖາມຂາວ ກນເຂາຢບານໝ. ເມນກລວມມອາຫານທເປນເອກະລກຂອງໂຮນລງ ກຄ ບດເຕບເລນ (ຈນລກຊນ) ລດຊາດແຊບໆ. ນອກນນກມຊບຖວຮອນໆແຊບໆ, ແລະ ສ�ລບຜທມກຂອງຫວານ ທາງຮານກມສຕຣບວາບໂຟ (ຄາຍໆເຂາໜມຮງເຜງ ສອດໃສນ�ເຊອມ) ນ�ອກ. ນອກນນ ກຍງມລາຍການກາເຟ ແລະ ຊາໃຫເລອກ ຫ າ ກ ຫ າ ຍ ໂ ດ ຍ ສ ະ ເ ພ າ ະ ແ ມນ ທ ຣ າ ມ ສ ລ າ ເ ຕ ທທາ ນ ຕອ ງ ໄ ດລມ ລ ອ ງ . ຮານອາຫານຄ�ແບກ ເປນສາຂາຂອງແຟຣນຊາຍ ເອກເປຣສ ຄາເຟ, ຫາກ ເປດຂນຫວາງເດອນມຖນາ ປນ, ໂດຍແນໃສຮອງຮບກມລກຄາຄນໂຮນລງທມາເຮດ ວຽກ ແລະ ອາໃສຢໃນລາວ ແລະ ກຍງມລກຄາຄນລາວ ທມາແວະກນອາຫານລາວ ແລະ ໄທນ�ອກ ເຊງລາຄາກບແພງຫາຍ.

ໂທ: 020 5530 1806 ທຢ: ບານສບນເຮອງ, ນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນ (ກງກນຂາມໂຮງຮຽນມດທະຍມສສະຫວາດ)ເວບໄຊ: www.facebook.com/Come.Back.Restaurantເປດ: ວນຈນ-ວນພດ 8ໂມງເຊາ-5ໂມງແລງ, ວນພະຫດ-ວນເສາ 8ໂມງເຊາ - 9ໂມງກາງຄນ

ບາຮາຍ ປນອຍ - ຟລປນ

ຮາ ນ ອ າ ຫ າ ນ ນມ ສ ສນ ສໃ ສ ຕກ ແ ຕງ ແບບໜາຮກໆ ພອມບອນນງທເປນ ໂຊຟາ ເຊງທານຈະສ�ຜດໄດເຖງກນອາຍອນແປກໃໝຂອງຮານນ ນບຕງແຕວນາທທທານກາວເຂາສປະຕຮານ. ຮານນອຍໆນ ບຄອຍມຄນ ຮຈກ ແ ຕທ າ ງ ຮາ ນ ມ ອ າ ຫ າ ນ ພນ ເ ມ ອ ງ ຟລປນທເປນຕາແຊບຫາຍເຍອງ, ເສບແບບ ທ�ມະດາໆ, ເຊງອາຫານຟລປນນ ສວນຫາຍຈະ ເປນອາຫານທປງແຕງພາຍໃນເຮອນ ກບສດອາຫານ ແຊບໆ ທຕກທອດມາຈາກຮນຄນກອນໆໃນຄອບຄວ ທທານຊມແລວຈະບຜດຫວງ. ເມນຢຮານນ ລວມມອາຫານຟລປນທຖກໃຈຫາຍໆຄນ ເຊນ ໝຊນແກງ, ເຊງເປນແກງໝາກຂາມໃສພນທອງໝ ແລະ ຜກ; ຕບຊລອກ, ເຊງເປນອາຫານເຊາ ມຊນຊອຍບາງໆ ກນກບເຂາຜດ ແລະ ຈນໄຂ; ແລະ ມ ງວອະໂດໂບ, ເຊງເປນຊນງວ ໝກກບເຄອງເທດ ເຊນກະທຽມ, ນ�ສມສາຍຊ ແລະ ພກໄທ. ນອກນນ ທາງຮານກຍງມອາຫານເຊາ ແບບຕາງປະເທດ ແລະ ອາຫານພນເມອງລາວນ�.

ໂທ: 020 5897 3999, 030 990 9061 ທຢ: ຖະໜນບຣຈນ, ບານໂພນສນວນ, ເມອງສສດຕະນາກ,ນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນເປດ:ທກມ, 8ໂມງເຊາ-10ໂມງກາງຄນ

ນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນ ເປນແຫງທເຕມໄປດວຍຮານອາຫານແຊບໆຫາກຫາຍແຫງ ໂດຍສະເພາະແມນອາຫານ ລາວ, ໄທ ແລະ ຝຣງ. ນອກຈາກນນແລວ ປດຈບນ ກເລມມອາຫານອນແປກໃໝເພມຂນຢາງຕເນອງໃນວຽງຈນ ເນອງຈາກວາມຄນຕາງປະເທດຈາກທກຫນແຫງໃນທວໂລກ ໄດຍກຍາຍຖນຖານ ເຂາມາອາໃສຢໃນລາວ ແລະ ກໄດນ�ເອາອາຫານຈາກບານເກດເມອງນອນຂອງພວກເຂາຕດຕວມານ�. ເຮາມາເບງກນວາ ປດຈບນ ໃນຕວເມອງວຽງຈນ ມອາຫານທແປກໃໝຫຍງແດ ທແຕກຕາງໄປຈາກອາຫານທວໆໄປ ທພວກເຮາເຄຍກນກນ?

ວາລະສານ ສະບາຍດ ພາທານອອກຈາກເມນແບບເດມໆ ແລວໄປສນຫາອາຫານການກນອນແປກໃໝ ທຫາໄດຍາກ ໃນຕວເມອງວຽງຈນ

ສນຫາອາຫານການກນອນແປກໃໝ

ວາຣງ ເອໂກ – ອນໂດເນເຊຍ ຮານ ວາຣງ ເອໂກ ນ�ອາຫານລດຊາດ ແຊບໆ ຂອງອນໂດເນເຊຍ ມາສນະຄອນ ຫວງວຽງຈນ. ຮານນອຍໆທເບງບຄຮານ ອາຫານນ ຕງຢທາງຫງວດໂພນໄຊອນ ຮມເຢນ ເຊງເປດໃຫບລການສະເພາະ ຕອນສວາຍເທານນ. ຮານດງກາວໃຫ ຄວາມຮສກຄຢບານເຊງອາຫານຢຮານນ ແມນຄວຢເຮອນຄວຢດານນອກ.ອາຫານທຂນ ຊກມ ຈນເຕາຮໃສຊອສເຄຈບ ລດຊາດເຜດໆແຊບ, ຫ ຂວຊນພນເມອງເຊນ ເຣນດງກມລດຊາດແຊບຊອຍເຊນດຽວກນ. ສ�ລບຜທມກອາຫານແປກໆຕອງໄດລອງຊມຈນໄຂປາ ແລະ ເຂາໄກ. ອາຫານອນໂດເນເຊຍແຊບໆນ ແມນມແຕສະເພາະທກໆວນຈນ, ວນພດ ແລະ ວນສກເທານນ. ສວນມອນໆ ແມນເສບອາຫານໄທ.

ໂທ: 021 450 044, 020 5450 0440 ທຢ: ບານໂພນໄຊ, ເມອງໄຊເຊດຖາ, ນະຄອນຫວງວຽງຈນ (ຫງວດໂພນໄຊ)ເປດ: ວນຈນ-ວນສກ, 8ໂມງເຊາ-2ໂມງສວາຍ.

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VIENTIANE

EAT Listing

• YULALA CAFÉ & RESTAURANT – Japanese/Fusion. Pull up a chair or nestle into a floor cushion at this cute little joint which puts a Japanese spin on Western ingredients. While the daily specials are ever-changing popular mainstays include sautéed chicken with tofu, soy sauce and mirin and the potato croquettes with mince beef and a tomato-based sauce. Set meals come with salad, pickled vegetables, flavoursome broth and steamed purple rice. Seating is limited so it can pack out early on the weekends. Rue Hengboun, 020 5510 4050, facebook.com/pages/YuLaLa-cafe-restaurant/148520861845706 http://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open Tuesday to Sunday 11.30am – 2pm, 6pm – 9.30pm.

• DAIRY QUEEN – Ice-cream/American. Dairy Queen opened its second Lao branch on the Mekong riverside on June 18 to an ecstatic reception. The popular ice-cream chain was previously only open in Wattay International Airport, catering to arriving and departing passengers. The new shop – located in the heart of Vientiane on the main river road – is constantly busy, churning out ice creams, sundaes, milkshakes, iced coffees and DQ’s signature ‘Blizzards’ to eager customers looking for a reprieve from the tropical heat. There are six varieties of hot dogs as a more savoury option. Quay Fa Ngum, 021 255 380, www.facebook.com/DairyQueenLaos.

| Vegetarian in the Golden Age |

| Vegie Hut |

| Ai Capone |

| Bistro 22 |

• BAN GAI TEX MEX CANTINA – American/Mexican. Ban Gai serves outstanding Mexican food at low prices thanks to its slightly hidden location outside the city centre. Once famed purely for their finger-licking buffalo hot wings, Ban Gai has expanded their menu to include a host of authentic Tex Mex classics including nachos, enchiladas and burritos heaped with fresh salsa, gooey cheese and accompanied by bowls of piping hot rice and beans. Almost everything can be ordered vegetarian. Pair anything from the menu with one of their delicious margaritas and you’re set. Family friendly, delivery. Sokpalaung Road, 020 9825 6654, facebook.com/BanGaiHouseOfChickenhttp://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open Tuesday to Sunday 11am – 9pm.

• BENONI CAFÉ – Asian/Western/Café.Escape the bustle of downtown Vientiane at Benoni Café, a bright and airy café-cum-restaurant which serves up fresh and tasty Asian and Western fare. Choose from a wide range of baguettes, quiches, burgers and noodle and rice dishes – all prepared quickly and served with a smile. The Lao coffee is home roasted and the delicious cakes and sweets are all made in-house. WiFi, family friendly. Rue Setthathirath (above Phimphone), 021 213 334, facebook.com/benonicafehttp://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open Monday to Saturday 10am – 5pm.

• BISTRO 22 – French. Chef Philippe presents honest French bistro fare at this cosy, hole-in-the-wall eatery. The food is fresh and flavourful with highlights including the goat’s cheese salad, rabbit terrine and classic steak frites. Popular with the expat crowd, the service is faultless and the desserts, including a delectable chocolate fondant, are not to be missed. 22 Samsenthai Road, Ban Khaonyot, 021 214 129http://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open Monday to Friday 11am – 2pm, Monday to Saturday 6pm – 10pm.

• RAY’S GRILLE – American/Mexican. It’s all about comfort food at Ray’s – home style burgers, legendary Philly cheese steak sandwiches and tasty quesadillas – all fresh and made to order in this homely joint. While the real drawcard is the colossal cheeseburger (best handled with two hands) mention must also go to the felafel burger which is sure to satisfy vegetarians. A selection of local and imported beers are available including a few micro-brewed American craft beers – just the ticket to wash down this tasty diner fare. 17/1 Sihom Road, 020 5896 6866, facebook.com/raysgrilleLaopdr. Open Monday to Friday, Sunday 11am – 3pm, 6pm – 11pm.

• LAO KITCHEN – Lao. A colourful eatery that specialises in authentic Lao dishes. Sisters Noi and Teng run the show while their family help out in the kitchen preparing soups, stews, grilled meats, stir-fry dishes and of course laap (the duck variation is a stand out). A great place for those new to Lao cuisine – the menu is full of helpful explanations for each dish and warns you if something may be a little too piquant for some palates. Rue Hengboun (opposite KP Hotel), 021 254 332, lao-kitchen.comhttp://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open Monday to Sunday 11am – 10pm.

• VEGIE HUT – Vegetarian. You would never ever find this brilliant Chinese-style hideout if you weren’t looking for it. A lot of thought has been put into making Vegie Hut’s interior warm, comfortable and inviting. The menu is huge, and you’ll find flavours from Chinese, Lao and Thai cuisines. Dishes include fake duck and fake seafood. The staff are extremely attentive and friendly, and prices are very fair. Vegie Hut can get crowded, so consider making a booking. Vegetarian friendly. Asean Road, at the intersection with Sibounheuang Road, 020 5619 9938. Open Monday-Saturday 9am-9pm.

• AI CAPONE – Italian. The latest offering from Chef Gerardo is Ai Capone, in downtown Vientiane. The contemporary interior is matched with a modern menu offering top Italian dining with a casual flair, boasting simple dishes packing authentic flavours. The menu ranges from pastas and mains to risotto and desserts – but it’s hard to look past the wood-fired pizzas with over 40 combinations straight from Napoli. 8 Rue Francois Ngin, Ban Mixai, 020 5991 0888, facebook.com/aicaponelaospdr. Open 7 days 11.30am – 10.30pm.

• VEGETARIAN IN THE GOLDEN AGE – Vegetarian. The geniuses in the kitchen at Vegetarian in the Golden Age have got fake meat down to a forensic art. Some veggies aren’t a fan of this, but if you can get past the weirdness of biting into super-realistic fried fish somehow created from soybeans, the dishes are delicious. Fake pork, beef and chicken are all on the menu too, alongside more conventional veggie staples like eggplant and tofu that aren’t pretending to be anything else. The food is fantastic and best shared with a few friends. The restaurant is run by Vietnamese monks, and the walls are adorned with photographs of famous Vietnamese Buddhist leader Master Ruma. Come at lunch for a super-cheap buffet. All food here is believed to be vegan. Vegetarian, vegan friendly. Lunch buffet. Saylom Road, 020 5550 5305. Open daily 8am-8pm.

| Dairy Queen |

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VIENTIANE

| L’Adresse de Tinay |• MAKPHET – Lao. This restaurant-cum-social enterprise is working to shape lives. Founded by Friends-International, Makphet provides training in hospitality to disadvantaged youth in Laos. If that wasn’t enough reason to dine here the kitchen creates an inspired take on Lao cuisine, blending traditional flavours with modern techniques. #78 Ban Inpeng, Vat Chanh Tha, 021 260 587, makphet-restaurant.org. Open Monday to Sunday 11am-10.30pm.

• SOUL KITCHEN – Italian. This laid-back dinner hot spot is a little off the main drag but the pizzas and casual atmosphere – complete with rock and blues tunes – make it worth the trip. The menu includes tasty pasta dishes and salads but it’s the traditional wood fired pizzas that keeps Soul Kitchen’s loyal fans coming back for more. In keeping with the quotes from rock stars scrawled on the walls, the pies have fun names like ‘Rock n Roll’, ‘Purple Haze’ and ‘Voodoo Child’. Family friendly. Thadeua Road 143 (KM 0.5), 020 5612 0804, [email protected]://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open Tuesday to Sunday 5.30pm – 10.30pm.

• KUNG’S CAFÉ LAO – Lao/Breakfast. Tucked down a residential laneway, this popular breakfast and lunch haunt is a hit with those in-the-know. The breakfast and lunch menu runs all day so try Lao-inspired sweets like sticky rice pancakes with mango or banana French toast and savoury dishes like meatballs in broth with a fresh crunchy baguette or the Pad Lao noodles with pork. On the main street, look for a small hand painted sign pointing the way. Off Rue Simeuang, Piawat Village, 021 219 101, facebook.com/KungsCafeLaohttp://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open 7 days 6am – 3pm.

• VIENG SAWAN – Vietnamese. Look beyond the décor at this bustling eatery which serves up cheap and delicious Vietnamese dishes to hungry masses. Order a fresh or fried spring roll combination which comes with heaped plates of fresh lettuce, herbs and noodles designed to be eaten together. If you’re feeling lost check out how neighbouring diners are doing things and follow suit. Rue Hengboun (opposite Home Ideal), 021 213 990http://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp.

• OSAKA HAC CHAO – Japanese. This cosy eatery is usually buzzing with Japanese customers who come for a taste of home – always a good sign. Simple traditional and not-so-traditional Japanese fare is on offer including generous sushi and sashimi platters, crisp tempura, steaming bowls of ramen and udon noodle soups and a variety of katsu dishes. The set meals are a great way to try a little of everything and the tempura ice cream is a quirky addition to the sweets menu. Nokeokoummane Road (next to Le Banneton)http://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp.

• L’ADRESSE DE TINAY RESTAURANT FRANÇAIS – French. Chef Tinay produces some of Vientiane’s finest and most inventive French cuisine at this chic dining spot. The whole duck breast with homemade foie gras and white truffle oil is a current favourite and Tinay’s signature cassoulet with homemade confit duck is the perfect nod to traditional French comfort food. For dessert the crème brulee is the best in town. Behind Wat Ong Teu, 020 5691 3434, ladressedetinay.comhttp://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open Monday to Friday 11.30am – 2pm, 6.30pm – 10pm, Saturday 6.30pm – 10pm.

• JAMIL ZAHID RESTAURANT – Indian/Pakistani. This cheap and cheerful eatery is affectionately known simply as Jamil’s by the loyal diners that frequent it. Tucked down an alley, Jamil and his team serve up authentic Indian and Pakistani dishes which are full of flavour and light on the hip pocket. Ordering anything that comes from Jamil’s on-site traditional tandoori oven is always a safe bet. Off Khounboulom Road, Ban Haysok, 020 5650 2455, facebook.com/JamilZahidRestaurantVientianehttp://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open 7 days 11.00am – 10.30pm.

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• CAFÉ CHAI DEE – Japanese/Western. Fun little café housed in a sunshine-yellow building on the main street of Savannakhet. Chai Dee serves up a mix of Japanese favourites including katsudon, sushi, cold noodle salad alongside fresh sandwiches and Thai curries. Cosy into a comfy armchair with a freshly brewed Lao coffee lounge on the sunny terrace with an icy Chai Dee Cooler. Occasional live music in the evenings. Free WiFi, book exchange. 1 Latsavongseuk Road, Lattanalansy Thai Village, 020 9179 2479, cafechaidee.comhttp://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open Tuesday to Sunday 8.30am – 9.00pm.

• LIN’S CAFE – Asian/Café. A friendly tucked away eatery housed in a 1930s building complete with original art-deco tiles. Located in the heart of historic downtown this is the perfect place to while away the afternoon with a fresh Lao coffee and tasty Lao/Vietnamese fare. An upstairs gallery exhibits photographs of old Savannakhet. Free WiFi, tourist information, bicycle rental. Latsaphanit Road, Ban Xaiyaphoum Village, 020 9988 1630, lincafe.netau.nethttp://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open 7 days 8.30am – 8.00pm.

| Lin's Cafe. |

| Café Chai Dee. |

SAVANNAKHET

EAT Listing

PAKSE

• LE PANORAMA – Lao/International. As the name might suggest this leafy rooftop terrace, perched on the top floor of the Hotel Pakse, has the best views in town. Diners can take their pick from a range of cuisines including Lao, Thai and French. No matter what you’re eating the fact remains Le Panorama is the place to sit back, relax and take in a glorious sunset in Pakse, chilled Beerlao in hand optional. Street 5, Bane Watlouang, 031 212 131, hotelpakse.comhttp://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp.

• NADAO – French/Lao. French/Lao. A great find in Pakse, Nadao offers fresh and flavoursome French bistro fare and traditional Lao dishes in a fine dining atmosphere. A little out of the city centre, its location hasn’t stopped locals and visitors alike from flocking to experience some of the best gourmet dining in southern Laos. The service is faultless and the owner/chef will almost always be happy to suggest something from his repertoire. Near the Japanese Bridge (opposite the Champasak Grand Hotel), 021 213 174http://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp.

• LAN KHAM NOODLE HOUSE – Lao. Attached to the Lan Kham Hotel this noodle house is considered famous around these parts. Particularly popular with locals for breakfast – you may have to fight for a spot – Lan Kham consistently produces huge steaming bowls of noodle soup accompanied by heaped plates of fresh herbs and greens. Cheap and tasty, having this on your doorstep would be reason enough to stay at the neighbouring guest house. Street 13, Lakmeaumg Village. Open 7 days 6.30am – 1pm.

• LES 3 NAGAS – Lao. Dining at Les 3 Nagas is a distinctly local affair with the restaurant housed both on the inviting terrace of the 3 Nagas Hotel and inside an adjacent colonial-style building. Executing both authentic Lao dishes and the chef’s original creations with a touch of French finesse this attractive lunch and dinner spot presents some of the finest food in town. Start your meal with the crisp and tangy Luang Prabang salad and round off with the black sticky rice for dessert. Happy hours 3pm – 6pm. Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Nong, 071 253 888, 3-nagas.comhttp://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open 7 days 6.30am – 10.30pm.

• RESTAURANT L’ELEPHANT – French/Lao. L’Elephant is housed in a charming colonial building just steps away from the magnificent Mekong River. Specialising in traditional and creative French and Lao cuisine the kitchen places an emphasis on using organic, local produce which is grown in their own gardens a few kilometres out of town. Free WiFi. Kounxoa Road, Ban Vat Nong, 071 252 482, elephant-restau.comhttp://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open 7 days 11.00am – 10pm.

• TAMARIND RESTAURANT – Lao. Tamarind specialises in helping diners explore and learn about Lao cuisine and the traditions associated with it. Enjoy sampling platters or something from the a la carte menu with explanations and demonstrations from helpful staff and the Nam Khan River as a picturesque backdrop. If you’re happy to be guided by the chef try one of the famed specialised feasts choices include Traditional Lao Fish Barbeque, The Adventurous Lao Gourmet and Luang Prabang Family Dinner. Ban Wat Sene on the banks of the Nam Khan River, 071 213 128, tamarindlaos.com. Open Monday to Saturday 11am – 9pm.

• CAFÉ TOUI – Lao/Western. A colourful hole in the wall on a quiet side street leading to the Mekong River. Chef Toui began his culinary journey as a waiter in Vientiane before working the kitchen at L’Elephant where he developed his passion for cooking. Now head of the kitchen at his own eatery Toui serves up hearty Lao and Western fare using fresh, local ingredients. Sisavangvatthana Road, Ban Xieng Mouane, 020 5657 6763, cafetoui.comhttp://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open 7 days 6.30am – 10.30pm.

• TAMNAK LAO RESTAURANT – Lao. A family-run restaurant which delivers delicious authentic and homely Lao cuisine. The in-house cooking school means the staff know their stuff, so don’t be afraid to ask questions. Try the crispy bamboo shoots stuffed with pork and vegetables or the ubiquitous Luang Prabang sausage, both are done very well here. Sakarinne Road, 071 212 239, tamnaklao.net. Open 7 days breakfast 8.30am – 10.30am, lunch 11am – 3pm, dinner 5pm – 11pm.

• LA BELLE EPOQUE – Lao/Western. Housed in the grand Luang Say Residence, just outside the city centre, this upscale dining room exudes a warm, heritage ambience. The seasonal, healthy and creative menu changes quarterly and features a tempting selection of regional dishes from Laos and further afield in South East Asia. An on-site fruit and vegetable garden means fresh ingredients are always at the kitchen’s fingertips. 4-5 Ban Phonepheng, 071 260 891, luangsayresidence.comhttp://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp. Open 7 days 6am – 10.30pm.

LUANG PRABANG| Tamarind Restaurant. |

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Eat Highlight

Smoky skewers, not sushi, at

The service at Sumibiyaki is sharp and attentive. As soon as you’re seated, staff bring a wet towel for you to clean your hands with. A little bowl of seaweed salad follows shortly after.

The menu is short but immaculately curated. The emphasis is on charcoal and barbecue flavours, especially focusing on chicken. Try the chef’s specialty teriyaki chicken skewers for smoky, tender meat that falls apart in your chopsticks. The grilled salmon belly is wonderfully crispy on the outside, yet soft and tender on the inside.

The non-meat options are delicious as well. Deep-fried tofu and grilled rice balls pack in an extraordinary amount of flavour. The chef has honed the marinating process to a fine art. A bowl of miso soup makes for a tasty, warming entre.

The interior’s sleek, modern design reflects the precision for which Japanese cooking is renown. The kitchen isn’t tucked away out back – rather, dishes are grilled right in front of you, filling the air with a smoky haze. The black marble bar running along one side has comfortable stool seating, while larger tables cater to groups of diners. Behind the bar is an expensive but refined selection of sake. Staples like Beerlao are available too.

The food at Sumibiyaki is very different to that at the increasing number of sushi restaurants in downtown Vientiane. It is an authentic and unique dining experience that is well deserving of its loyal Japanese clientele.

ອາຫານປງແບບຍປນທ ສມບຢາກທານຈະໄດຍນສຽງຄນເວາພາສາຍປນຢາງຫວງຫາຍ ເມອທານກາວເຂາໄປ ພາຍໃນຮານ ສມບຢາກ ໂທຣຊເກະ. ຮານດງກາວຕງຢໃກກບສະຖານທດຍປນ ເຊງຮານແຫງນ ແມນເປນສະຖານທ ທບນດາຄນເຊອຊາດຍປນມາພບປະກນ ພອມຮບປະທານອາຫານລດຊາດດງເດມແບບຍປນແທໆເຮດໃຫຫວນຄະນງຫາ ບານເກດເມອງນອນຂອງເຂາ.

ການບລການຢຮານສມບຢາກແມນມຄວາມເອາໃຈໃສລກຄາຫາຍ. ພແຕທານນງລງ, ພະນກງານ ກຈະນ�ຜາເຢນໆມາໃຫທານເຊດມ. ຫງຈາກນນ ບພເທາໃດ ເຂາເຈາກຈະນ�ຍ�ສາຫາຍຖວຍນອຍໆມາໃຫທານ.

ເມນອາດຈະໜອຍ ແຕກຖກຄດສນມາເປນຢາງດ. ອາຫານສວນຫາຍຈະເນນໜກເປນ ລດຊາດບາບຄວ ໂດຍສະເພາະໄກ. ລອງຊມປງໄກເທຣຢາກແບບພເສດຂອງພຄວ ເຊງມກນຫອມຮມຄວນ, ຊນຜອຍໆ ແຕກອອກເປນຕອນໆ ພແຕທານເອາໄມຖຄບ. ປງພນທອງປາແຊລມອນ ກອບໆຢທາງນອກ ແຕກຍງນມໆຢທາງໃນ.

ສວນອາຫານອນອນທບແມນຊນກແຊບຄກນ. ລອງຊມຈນເຕາຮ ແລະ ປງເຂາເປນໜວຍມນໆ ກແຊບດ. ແກງມໂຊະອນໆທເສບມາຄຽງຄກນ ເຮດໃຫລດຊາດອາຫານແຊບຂນ.

ການຕກແຕງພາຍໃນຮານມຄວາມງດງາມ ແລະ ທນສະໄໝ. ທານຈະແນມເຫນພຄວປງອາຫານຢຕໜາຂອງທານເລຍ ພອມບນຍາກາດຮານທອບອວນໄປດວຍຄວນ.

Sumibiyaki TorishigeOpen Wednesday - Monday 5.30pm - 11.00 pm. (Tuesday Close)A: Sisangvone Road, Vientiane T: 020 9757 5700

Words & photos James Elton-Pym

ສມບຢາກ ໂທຣຊເກະເເປດ: ວນພດ ຫາ ວນຈນ ເວລາ 5:30ແລງ-11 ໂມງກາງຄນ. (ປດວນຄານ)ໂທ: 020 9757 5700ທຢ: ຖະໜນສສງວອນ, ວຽງຈນ

Sumibiyaki japanese

There’s a lot of Japanese spoken inside Sumibiyaki Torishige. Located near the Japanese Embassy, this is a place where Japanese nationals from a range of professions come to meet over truly authentic food from home. Don’t expect to find California rolls here – this is a restaurant for serious fans of the cuisine.

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VIENTIANE• CAFÉ NOMAD – Café. A hidden, hip little gem perched on a bustling intersection, Café Nomad is a popular haunt for office workers, embassy staff and those in the know. Their straightforward menu of coffee, juices, paninis and cakes may be small, but it’s all executed extremely well. Free Wi-Fi, public pc/printer/scanner. 1-342 Dongpalanthong, S isat tanak, 020 5434 9977, facebook.com/cafenomad.lao. Open Monday to Friday 8.30am – 7pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am – 6pm.

• NOY’S FRUIT HEAVEN – Shakes/Café. A cute and colourful hangout that is popular with travellers, Noy and her team serve up fresh and fast fruit shakes and juices in a medley of tropical combinations. If you’re after something you can sink your teeth into Noy’s is great for flavoursome sandwiches, wraps and burgers – try the felafel pita stuffed with fresh salad and feta. 60/2 Rue Hengboun. Open 7 days 7am – 9pm.

• NAKED ESPRESSO – Café. A popular place for a caffeine hit this light filled café serves up some of the best brew in town. Naked Espresso is all about a combination of fine Arabica beans sourced from Southern Laos and Northern Thailand, well-trained baristas, friendly service and a world-class espresso machine. Free Wi-Fi. Dongpalan Road, 021 454 631, nakedespressocafe.net. Open Tuesday to Friday 7am – 5pm, Saturday and Sunday 8am – 5pm.

• COMMON GROUNDS CAFÉ AND BAKERY – Café/Mexican. This family friendly café is the perfect place to kick back in a comfy armchair and refuel with a coffee and homemade cake while the kids enjoy the outdoor playground. Their organic coffee is sourced from Saffron in Luang Prabang which supports farmers to grow coffee instead of opium, so you won’t feel too guilty settling in for a second latte. Free Wi-Fi. Rue Chao Anou, 021 255 057, facebook.com/commongroundslaos. Open Monday to Saturday 7am – 8pm.

| Café Nomad |

CAFÉ Listing

| Joma Bakery Café |

• LE TRIO COFFEE – Café. Le Trio Coffee is the latest addition to Vientiane’s buzzy café scene, with their boutique art deco-inspired shopfront. An artisanal roaster since 2009, Le Trio roasts the finest Lao-sourced Arabica and Robusta beans with some of the best European equipment in-house. Now in their own café, guests can enjoy a brew on the sunny terrace, at the elegant salon-style bar, or pick up a bag of beans to enjoy at home. Setthathirath Road, 020 2255 3552, facebook.com/letriocoffee. Open Tuesday to Saturday 10am – 4pm.

• TRUE COFFEE – Café. The Vientiane flagship of the popular Thai chain has the slick, western-style coffee house vibe down pat. But comfy sofas and speedy WiFi aside, the coffee here is excellent and comes in a myriad of piping hot and icy cold variations. Situated in the heart of downtown Vientiane True Coffee is perfect for a quick caffeine hit on-the-go or a lengthy escape from the daily grind with one of their delicious selection of sweet treats. 111 Setthathirath Road, close to Nam Phu Fountain, 044 253 338http://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/makphet.asp?mm=or&sm=mp.

• BEGONIA CAFÉ – Café. A cosy new coffee house in the That Luang area, Begonia serves up delicious Saffron-brand coffee from Luang Prabang. Fans of vintage-chic will love the array of quirky trinkets on display including old typewriters, retro phones and record players – and don’t forget to look up at the colourful umbrellas peppering the ceiling. Don’t miss a slice of Begonia’s signature crepe cake – layer upon layer of delicate crepes sandwiched with a filling of your choice including mango and coconut. Soi 4 off Nongbone Road, 020 5555 5082, facebook.com/pages/Begonia-Café/124868954261514. Open Monday to Saturday 9am – 5.30pm.

• JOMA BAKERY CAFÉ – Café/Western. A name synonymous with the Vientiane café scene, each of Joma’s three Vientiane shopfronts provides tasty, fresh eats and organic fair trade coffee in a cosy, coffeehouse atmosphere. The friendly staff and speedy service make Joma a popular choice for those on-the-go while others tend to linger awhile over breakfast, lunch or any of the delicious in-house baked goods. Free Wi-Fi, delivery. Joma Namphou: Th. Setthathilath, Joma Phonthan: Th. Dongpalane, Joma That Luang: cnr Singha Rd/Nongbone Rd, delivery: 021 254 333, joma.biz. Open 7 days 7am – 9pm.

| Naked Espresso |

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BAR Listing

LUANG PRABANG• LE CAFÉ BAN VAT SENE – Café. Sitting pretty on the main street of tranquil Luang Prabang this elegant café-cum-restaurant combines the home-grown ingredients and cuisine of sister bistro L’Éléphant Restaurant with lighter café-style fare including a selection of delectable pastries. Free Wi-Fi. Sakarine Road, 071 252 482, elephant-restau.com/cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open 7 days 7am – 10pm.

• LE PATIO CAFÉ – Lao/Café. Housed in the grounds of the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre this intimate eatery offers a range of dishes from northern Lao ethnic minorities, making it the perfect stop after immersing yourself in Lao culture next door. Located at the base of Phou Si Hill patrons will enjoy a unique vantage point of this distinctive attraction. Free Wi-Fi. Ban Khamyong, [email protected], elephant-restau.com/lepatiocafe.html. Open 7 days 9am – 5pm.

• THE SILK ROAD CAFÉ – Lao. Bringing an east meets west philosophy to the kitchen the Silk Road Café combines regional flavours, local ingredients and ideas from cuisines the silk road passed through. Set against a backdrop of the Mekong River this open-air café is housed on the grounds of the Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre making it the perfect spot to grab coffee and a bite after an on-site weaving workshop or demonstration. Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre, Ban Saylom, 071 212 597, ockpoptok.com. Open 7 days 8am – 5pm.

PAKSE• SINOUK COFFEE AND BAKERY – Café. A Lao legacy, the well-known Sinouk Coffee empire has grown from its humble beginnings as a small plantation in the 1990s to a 50 hectare estate and is turning heads across Asia. Pakse’s Sinouk Coffee and Bakery outpost serves up delicious cups of Sinouk’s signature organic blend which comes direct from the farm in Paksong to the table. Free Wi-Fi. Pakse centre, near the Tourism Office, sinouk-cafe.comhttp://www.elephant-restau.com/cafebanvatsenefr.html.

SAVANNAKHET• CAFÉ CHEZ BOUNE – Café/Western. Drawing crowds for great European fare, impressive décor and charming atmosphere, Café Chez Boune is a popular spot for dining out in Savannakhet. Opt for something light such as a tasty bruschetta or baguette or if you’re looking for something more substantial the seared duck breast or tender imported steaks are a good choice. Chaimeuang Road, Xayaphoum Village, 041 215 190, cafechezboune.comhttp://www.elephant-restau.com/cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open 7 days 7am – 10pm.

| Sinouk Coffee and Bakery |

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BAR Listing

VIENTIANE

| April 12 |

• JAZZY BRICK – Bar. With its exposed brickwork, moody lighting and distinct vintage-look decor The Jazzy Brick exudes effortless cool. The friendly staff make a mean cocktail and can usually make a recommendation from the extensive menu and the wine list is well-edited. Setthathirat Road (next to Wine95), 021 212 489, facebook.com/jazzybricklaomailto:[email protected]. Open 7 days 6pm – 12am.

• STICKY FINGERS – Bar/Western/Lao. Sticky’s, as it’s more affectionately known, is a long-time expat institution drawing big crowds for their legendary happy hour on Wednesday and Friday nights. The bartenders make a mean Tom Yum Martini which, refreshingly piquant, comes complete with a whole chilli garnish. Free WiFi, delivery. 10/3 Rue Francois Nginn, 021 215 972mailto:[email protected]. Open Monday to Friday 5pm – 11pm, Saturday and Sunday 10am – 11pm.

• CHOKDEE CAFÉ & BELGIAN BEER BAR – Bar/Belgian. This cosy pub, decorated with Tin Tin paraphernalia, is the place to come if you’ve got a hankering for Hoegaarden or any of the other 79 imported Belgian beers they keep. Huge steaming pots of moules frites attract big crowds every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Free WiFi, beer specials on Thursdays. 32/4 Fa Gnum Quai (along the Mekong River front), 020 5610 3434, chokdeecafe.commailto:[email protected]. Open 7 days 10am – 11pm.

• APRIL 12 – Bar/Asian. Located on the edge of the Mekong just before the Don Chan Palace hotel, April 12 has been designed to capitalise on its premiere location. The ground floor features a moodily lit bar and dance floor, but the rooftop is the main attraction. The tables are kept separate from each other with walls of leafy pot plants. There’s a second bar on the roof that serves cocktails, wine and a few varieties of beer. The excellent food is mostly Vietnamese, but the menu does include some foreign and Lao items. Fa Ngum Road, opposite the Don Chan Palace hotel, 020 7798 5444. Open Monday-Saturday 5pm-1am.

• THE SPIRIT HOUSE – Bar/Lao/Western. An inviting meeting point with a sprawling terrace looking onto the Mekong River. The cocktail list is extensive with quality liquors preferred, perfect for a sundowner paired with tasty Lao bar snacks. It’s located on a quiet stretch of the waterfront which makes for a peaceful breakfast or afternoon drink before it busies up in the evening. Free WiFi. 93/09 Fa Ngum Road, Ban Seetarn Neua, 021 243 795, thespirithouselaos.com, [email protected]:[email protected]. Open 7 days 7am – 11pm.

• BOR PEN NYANG – Bar/Western/Lao. This casual rooftop bar attracts an eclectic crowd of locals, seasoned expats and backpackers all who vie for a prime position along the balcony to watch the sunset over the Mekong River with a Beerlao nam kohn. Once the night comes things tend to kick up a notch with parties hitting the pool tables and beer towers. Fa Ngum Road, Wat Chanh, 020 5580 8281mailto:[email protected]. Open 7 days 11am – 12am.

| Chokdee Café & Belgian Beer Bar |

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• TANGOR – Bar/Tapas. Contemporary chic meets colonial charm at this intimate spot on Luang Prabang’s main stretch. Tangor specialises in impeccably crafted cocktails and a generous selection of local and imported beers and ciders. Market produce dictates the ever-changing menu of share plates but luckily for us their standout fish ceviche is a mainstay. House 63/6 Rue Susavangvong, 020 9560 7262, [email protected]. Open 7 days 11am – 11pm.

• HIVE BAR AND RESTAURANT – Bar/American. This vibrant garden bar is best known for its snappy cocktails, extensive beer and wine list and for serving up home style southern favourites. Grab a beer and try the mahogany smoked BBQ ribs or pulled pork sandwich. Nightly live entertainment includes Ethnik; a live fashion show of ethnic minority costumes and hip hop performed by local b-boys. Bar Street, Ban Aphay, 020 5999 5370, hivebarlaos.comhttp://www.elephant-restau.com/cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open Monday to Saturday 7am – 12am, Sunday 10am – 12am.

• ICON KLUB – Cocktail. This cosy bohemian haunt attracts a creative crowd, and welcomes live music, and hosts open mic poetry nights. Icon’s walls are adorned with vintage posters and film noir stills and punters are most likely to be seen sipping a brilliantly made cocktail (try the Bloody Mary or a dry martini) over a game of chess or retro board game. Free WiFi. Siphouttabath Road, Ban Xiengmouan, 071 254 905, iconklub.comhttp://www.elephant-restau.com/cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open 7 days 5pm – 11.30pm.

• UTOPIA – Bar/Lao/Western. Hidden on the lush banks of the Nam Khan river amongst charming tropical gardens and thatched decking Utopia has perfected laid back paradise. Patrons can languidly sip tropical cocktails on the cushioned terrace watching the river go by, play a board game with neighbours or party into the night in a tiki hut. Ban Aphay, 020 2388 1771, utopialuangprabang.comhttp://www.elephant-restau.com/cafebanvatsenefr.html. Open 7 days 8am – 11.30pm.

LUANG PRABANG

| Tangor |

| Hive Bar and Restaurant |

BAR Listing

VIENTIANE

RELAX Listing

• HERBAL SAUNA This establishment has Lao style herbal saunas for men and women in separate rooms. It also offers different massages including Lao, oil and foot. Entrance fees include a towel for men but women must rent a sarong for a small fee. Located very close to the Mekong in central Vientiane. Chao Anou Road, 020 5504 5655, 1pm-9pm.

• ADINA SPA This experienced spa team provides the ultimate pampering. Unlike many others spas, they provide Japanese traditional massages, Indian massages and a Hot Stone Massage. The facials are amongst the most advanced in the city. Higher-end prices. 170 Phonsaath, Kaysone Road, 021 414 138, 9am-10pm, www.adinaspalao.com.

• GIRIYA SPA You’ve got to travel to Rashmi’s Hotel, 3km from the city centre, to reach Giriya, but that’s small sacrifice for the awaiting experience. There’s an Indian atmosphere reflected in the decoration, while Thai masseuses give excellent massages in private rooms. Soon open to membership. Rashmi’s Hotel, Thadeua Road Km3, 021 315 088, www.rashmishotel.com.

• HEALING HANDS MASSAGE & SPA Located within Don Chan Palace Hotel on the Mekong Riverfront. They offer reflexology, natural aromatherapy oil massages and Lao hot herbal compress treatments within a spacious and warmly coloured parlour. Don Chan Palace Hotel, Fa Ngum Road, 021 244 288, 10am-7pm, www.donchanpalacelaopdr.com.

• GIRIYA SPA You’ve got to travel to Rashmi’s Hotel, 3km from the city centre, to reach Giriya, but that’s small sacrifice for the awaiting experience. There’s an Indian atmosphere reflected in the decoration, while Thai masseuses give excellent massages in private rooms. Soon open to membership. Rashmi’s Hotel, Thadeua Road Km3, 021 315 088, www.rashmishotel.com.

• WHITE LOTUS MASSAGE & YOGA White Lotus gives excellent foot massages in relaxing leather recliners. It’s one of the more affordable yet consistent massage businesses in town and has a great aromatherapy massage. Try the signature lotus foot massage or the Cleopatra treatment with gold masque for 200,000kip – heavenly. Also does yoga instruction. Pangkham Road, close to Nam Phu, 021 217 492, 10am-10pm.

• MANDARINA BODY & SOUL SPA Another one of many in the centre of Vientiane, but definitely among the best. The staff is friendly and there’s a few packages to choose from. Otherwise, the Traditional Lao massage is very popular and the Swedish massage is also well worth a try. Pangkham Road, near Nam Phu, 021 223 857, 10am-9.30pm.

• NIRVANA SPA The head and back massage is particularly good but it’s possible to get a combination of several treatments. The delightful honey body wrap could be combined with aromatic skin massage, followed by a herbal skin polish. Pangkham Road, facing Lao Plaza Hotel, 021 222 936, 10am-9pm, www.nirvana-spa-laos.com.

• PAPAYA SPA The setting in an old French colonial villa is charm enough, but inside the opulence is even greater. They’ve a Swedish oil massage, offer facials, body scrubs, reflexology and saunas. It’s definitely one of the pricier in the capital, but well worth it to relax in a state of pure luxury for a few hours. Phanya Sy Road, 021 216 550, 9.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun, www.papayaspa.com.

• DALAH SPA Luxurious Dalah Spa have a mineral milk bath, anti-stress back and shoulder treatments, the Four Hands Massage and sports massage for those exerting themselves. Located on a quiet lane just off the main road. 140 Khouvieng Road, 021 285 125, 9am-9pm.

| Giriya Spa |

• GREEN PARK CHAMPA LAO SPA This hotel-based spa is walled-in with dark woods and has snow white beds with trinkets on lockers and candles burning for soft light. They’ve got traditional massage, body exfoliation and expert facial treatments for guests and visitors. Foot massages take place in comfy recliners with a view to the gardens. Green Park Hotel, 12 Khouvieng Road, 021 263 064, 10am-7pm, www.greenparkvientiane.com.

• CHAMPA SPA & MASSAGE Champa has two locations in town within serene, quiet surroundings. Traditional Lao Massage, Herbal Treatments, Aromatherapy Massage and Body Steams have a range of lengths and prices. There is also a hand and foot spa, and waxing services. Among the best in Vientiane. Corner of Fa Ngum and Pangkham Roads, near Nam Phu, 021 251 926, 9am-10pm, www.champaspa.com.

• MANEE SPA About 4km from the city centre, Manee Spa offers consistently good massages in a tranquil setting. There are several private rooms with quality tables and a tasteful interior. It’s on the higher price scale but the setting with beautiful gardens is second to none. Sokpaluang Road, past the Myanmar Embassy, 021 353 207.

• NIKOLAZ MASSAGE This is just a 5-minute walk from the Mekong in the centre of town and they offer advanced massage and body therapies, as well as the traditional foot and body massages. The owners are very friendly and can further elaborate on options available. 45 Settathirath Road, 9am-11pm. | Dalah Spa |

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LUANG PRABANG

• DHAMMADA OASIS MASSAGE Tucked away beside a beautiful lotus pond and surrounded by coconut trees, Dhammada provides exceptional massages. There are aroma, oriental and foot massages to ease body tensions and bigger packages to spend a few hours. Very friendly and experienced staff makes Dhammada one of the best in town. Luang Prabang Oasis Hotel, Ban Vixoun, 071 212 642, www.luangprabangoasis.com.

• AYU SPA At Xieng Thong Palace Hotel, Ayu Spa is massage and body treatment heaven. Holistic practices performed by experienced therapists are a perfect way to slip into true relaxation. You could spend a half-day sampling the variety of massage and sauna/steam options, while a pedicure or manicure ties a few hours off. Kounxaou Road, Ban Phoneheung, 071 213 200, www.xiengthongpalace.com.

• DOK CHAMPA MASSAGE Fully trained and qualified massage therapists mean Dok Champa is an excellent place to relieve stress. They offer sports, aromatic oil, and gel and lotion massage. There are also deep cleansing facials for those looking for complete body rejuvenation. Visounarath Road, Ban Vixoun, 020 7777 9966, www.dokchampamassage.com.

• KIRIDARA SPA Kiridara Spa’s signature treatment is the Nuat Bouhan Massage, which lasts 90 minutes and fuses ancient Lao traditions with the regional therapies of Japanese Shiatsu, Thai massage and Chinese acupuncture. They’ve got many packages to choose from and the view over Luang Prabang is stunning. 22/13 North Road, Ban Naviengkham, 071 261 888, www.snhcollection.com/kiridara.

• SANCTUARY MASSAGE This is the place to try a superb Thai herbal compress massage. Sanctuary applies steamed Thai and Chinese herbs to the body in a kneading action to release muscle tension and stiffness. There are also aroma and oriental massages in calming rooms. Sanctuary Hotel, Kitsalat Road, 071 213777, www.sanctuaryluangprabang.com.

• LAO RED CROSS Set up to help children in poor communities, Lao Red Cross is one of the cheapest in town but with no compromise on quality. Housed in a Lao-French building, try the herbal sauna for 10,000 kip between 4pm-8pm, or go for one of the traditional massages. Bring your own towel or sarong. Wisunarat Road, 071 252 856, 9am-9pm.

• L’HIBISCUS SPA Across from Wat Sop, L’Hibiscus has been open for several years and rated amongst the best in town. Hot herbal compress, aromatherapy and even eye treatments are on the menu. L’Hibiscus is in a charming old two-storey building and exudes a soothing atmosphere. 45 Sakhaline Road, 030 923 5079, 10am-10pm.

• THE SPA GARDEN Spread over three locations, The Spa Garden (also known as Aroma Spa) has a deep tissue massage, a Mystic Lao massage and a foot massage with herbal creams amongst its signature treatments. Spa products also available for purchase. Ban Phonheuang, 071 212325, 10am-11pm, www.spagardenlpb.com.

• LUANG PRABANG YOGA This collective runs classes in yoga and meditation for beginner and experienced practitioners. The group alternates their regular classes between several picturesque riverside locations including Utopia and Ock Pop Tok and holds yoga retreats at Mandala Ou Resort in Nong Khiaw. luangprabangyoga.org.

| Dhammada Oasis Massage |

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VIENTIANE

SEE & DO Listing

• COPE VISITOR CENTRE – Museum. Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise, or COPE, is a locally run non-profit working with partners to provide rehabilitation services for Unexploded Ordnance (UXO) survivors and other people with disabilities across Laos. The Visitor Centre houses a free exhibition about UXO in Laos, stories from survivors and information on the services provided by COPE. Interactive displays, excellent documentaries and imagery provide a thought-provoking experience to visitors. There is an opportunity to support COPE through the gift shop or a donation. Centre of Medical Rehabilitation, Khouvieng Road, 021 218 427, 9am–6pm, 7 days, www.copelaos.org.

• DAY TRIP TO NAM NGUM LAKE – Tour. The perfect way to get back to nature while staying close to your base in Vientiane, Green Discovery Laos takes you to the Nam Ngum Resevoir. En route on this guided day-trip participants will get a first-hand look at Hmong village life to meet locals and visit the market before taking in the 11th century archaeological site of Van Xang. At the reservoir you’ll lunch on a floating restaurant and explore fishing villages and small islands by boat before returning to Vientiane. For more information visit greendiscoverylaos.com.

• FROM FARM TO MARKET – Tour. Local tour guides Tuk Tuk Safari specialise in small group educational and interactive tours of Vientiane and surrounds. On this tour patrons will visit the Panyanivej Eco Rice and Fish Farm to have a hand at traditional Lao fishing, rice planting and other farm activities before using fresh farm ingredients to cook a traditional Lao lunch. 020 5433 3089, tours run daytime from Monday to Saturday, www.tuktuksafari.com.

| Lao Experiences Cooking Class and Food Tours |

| i:cat gallery |

• HOUEY HONG VOCATIONAL TRAINING CENTRE FOR WOMEN – Class/Craft. The Centre provides training and employment for disadvantaged Lao women in the areas of natural dyeing, weaving, tailoring and administration. Visitors can tour the facilities and take part in dyeing and weaving classes creating a unique textile to take home, the cost of which includes transfers, lunch and provides direct support to the Centre. The gift shop sells stylish products made on-site by staff and trainees. Lane 19, Houey Hong Village, 021 560 006, Mon-Sat 8.30am–12pm, 1.30pm–4.30pm, www.houeyhongcentre.com.

• I:CAT GALLERY – Gallery. A bright and inviting gallery space featuring a revolving programme of engaging exhibitions from local artists working in a range of mediums. A collection of original prints, art books, photography, paintings and handmade cards are permanently for sale in the gallery space and past installations and events have included visual art, music, poetry, film and fashion. 230-231 Thanon Settathirath, Ban Simeuang, 020 7783 9674, Mon-Fri 6pm–8pm, Sat-Sun 1pm-6pm, www.facebook.com/icatgallery.

• LAO BOWLING CENTRE – Activity. A friendly place for a game of ten pin by day this unassuming venue is an evening hot spot with crowds flocking here once the regular haunts close. Get here in the early evening if you actually plan to get in a few rounds because by eight o’clock this joint is packed with locals having a laugh over Beerlao and interesting bowling techniques. But bor pen nyang, half the fun is kicking back with friends and waiting for a free lane. There are also snooker tables available for hire. Boulevard Khunbulom (near the National Stadium), 9am–late, 7 days.

• LAO DISABLED WOMEN’S DEVELOPMENT CENTRE – Tour/Craft. A local non-profit run by women with disabilities for women with disabilities. In a beautiful setting near the Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge the Centre is a hive of activity with training programmes including sewing and needlework, social development and women’s civ i l r ights. Visitors can tour the centre, buy locally-made handicrafts including accessories, fashion items and homewares and learn how they are made. Thadeua Road, Hadsayfong District, 021 812282, 8.30am–5pm, 7 days, www.laodisabledwomen.com.

| Lao Disabled Women's Development Centre |

• LAO EXPERIENCES COOKING CLASS AND FOOD TOURS – Class/Tour. Join friendly host Nook as she teaches you to cook popular Lao dishes with fresh ingredients and traditional methods. These fun and interactive classes are held in a leafy garden kitchen by the Mekong River, the perfect setting to throw together a tasty laap or mok pa (banana leaf steamed fish) all of which you’ll devour at the end of class. The additional tour of the largest fresh market in Vientiane is great for those new to Lao ingredients. Bookings at The Full Moon Café or via lao-experiences.com, 020 5569 9429. Classes and Market Tours conducted daily.

• VIENTIANE BYCYCLE – Tour. Explore Vientiane on two wheels in either a guided half or full-day tour allowing you to uncover a different side to the city. You’ll follow the gentle curve of the Mekong River to explore nearby scenic villages and observe fishermen and local temples. Back in the city centre you’ll pass touristic highlights like glittering temples, the grand Presidential Palace, Patuxai and That Luang while also venturing off the beaten path to capture scenes of Lao daily life in sleepy residential areas. 020 5581 2337, Tours run daily 8am to 5pm, www.vientianebycycle.com.

| Cope Visitor Centre |

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PAKSE• KOFFIE’S COFFEE WORKSHOP PAKSONG – Tour. Explore Southern Laos’ renowned coffee country and see just how beans make it into your morning cup of Joe. You will visit Koffie’s own organic coffee plantation and farm when you’ll see arabica growing, picked, then learn about the husking and drying processes. After lunch you’ll get hands-on in roasting arabica beans yourself and brew yourself a flavourful cup of aromatic java. For more information visit paksong.info/laos_coffee_workshop.php, 020 2276 0439, [email protected].

• SINOUK COFFEE RESORT – Garden. A must-see if you’re travelling through the Bolaven Plateau, Sinouk is a name synonymous with coffee in Laos. Surrounding the resort are palatial landscaped gardens which include coffee plants, rock gardens, a lake and waterfalls. Visitors can enjoy a signature locally grown cup of coffee from Sinouk’s nearby plantation in the pavilion restaurant or cafe. For more information visit sinoukcoffeeresort.com.

• TREE TOP EXPLORER AT JUNGLE HOTEL PAKSONG – Tour. Green Discovery Laos lead an unforgettable adventure in an unparalleled South East Asian mountain forest setting of Champassak province. This tour is not for the faint-hearted with zip-lining over gorges and waterfalls and breathtaking views from a canopy walkway leading to great fun in a stunning environment. Retire to the Jungle Hotel Paksong a cluster of private treehouses set amongst the lush forest. The ultimate experience in nature. For more information visit greendiscoverylaos.com.

LUANG PRABANG• ELEPHANT VILLAGE – Tour. Get up close to magnificent pachyderms at this tourist destination operated by international specialists and volunteers who aim to rescue, protect and rehabilitate elephants in Laos. There are a myriad of activities on offer for visitors including thrilling elephant rides, bathing elephants in the Nam Kahn River, a basic mahout training course and feedings. You can also stay overnight in on-site accommodation, aptly named the Elephant Lodge. To book and for more information visit elephantvillage-laos.com. Tours run 7 days.

• OCK POP TOK LIVING CRAFTS CENTRE – Class/Craft. Take part in a fun hands-on workshop and learn traditional weaving and dying techniques from skilled Lao artisans at this handicrafts centre set in lush tropical gardens overlooking the Mekong River. A variety of classes suitable for a range of skill levels are on offer or you could visit the weaving centre for a free tour and observe weavers at their craft. Ban Saylom (opposite Phousi Market), 071 212 597, 9am–5pm, 7 days, www.ockpoptok.com.

• TAMARIND COOKING SCHOOL – Class. This popular cooking class, run by the restaurant of the same name, has been schooling students in the art of laap for years. Participants will first check out ingredients at a local fresh market then head to Tamarind’s lake-side cooking school to cook and, more importantly, eat. The menu consists of a range of Lao classics including jeow spicy dipping sauces and Tamarind’s signature chicken and herb-stuffed lemongrass. To book and for more information visit tamarindlaos.com. Full day classes Mon-Sat 9am–3pm, evening classes Mon-Fri 4pm–8.30pm.

| Tree Top Explorer || Sinouk Coffee Resort |

| Ock Pop Tok Living Crafts Centre| | Tamarind Cooking School || Elephant Village |

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• NIGHT MARKET Drawing hordes of tourists and locals to the riverside each evening you simply can’t miss the two rows of red-topped marquees along the waterfront mingling with smoky food stalls and mountainous balloon displays. The wares on sale may be aimed predominately towards tourists (think t-shirts, trinkets and Buddhist inspired art) but locals shop here too and there are plenty of bargains to be had. Mekong riverfront, Fa Ngum Road, Sunset-9pm, 7 days.

• FINER THINGS Radiant silks and authentic handicrafts line the walls of Finer Things. The shop, set over two floors, has a flowing selection of traditional Lao skirts, colourful silks and figurines made from the delicate material. 34/03 Francois Ngin Road, 9am-6.30pm.

• T’SHOP LAI GALLERY A delightful gallery and crafts store featuring works from local and visiting artists and producing and selling the Les Artisans Lao range of organic skincare and beauty products. The range includes luscious body creams and soaps, all-natural repellents and aromatic oils. Vat Inpeng Street, 021 223 178, Mon-Sat 8am–8pm, Sun 10am–6pm, www.artisanslao.com.

• CAROL CASSIDY TEXTILES Intricate traditional Lao textiles are displayed in this beautiful gallery-workshop whose local weavers have exhibited in US museums. Carol works alongside local weavers to produce some incredibly complex and attractive pieces, specialising in 100% hand-woven silk. Noekummane Road, Ban Mixay, Mon-Fri 8am-12pm & 2pm-5pm, Sat 8am-12pm, www.laotextiles.com.

• MONUMENT BOOKS Monument Books has good-sized fiction and regional literature sections, as well as children’s travel, arts and history shelves. Travel guidebooks are available and Southeast Asian newspapers and international magazines are just inside the door. Nokeokoummane Road, 021 243 708, Mon-Fri 9am-8pm, Sat-Sun 9am-6pm, www.monument-books.com.

• SAOBAN CRAFTS A treasure trove of handmade handicrafts created by over 300 artisans from villages across Laos. In store you’ll find unique woven baskets and textiles, exquisite homewares and contemporary jewellery with most goods crafted from natural dyes, local bamboo and organically grown cotton and proceeds going back to the artist. 97/1 Chao Anou Road, Mon-Sat 9am–8pm, Sun 1pm–8pm, www.saobancrafts.com.

• LAO FINE ARTS HANDICRAFT JEWELLERY Superbly crafted, resplendent jewellery made from wood, coconut and silver can be bought here. Other contemporary and more traditional items can also be purchased. 550/01 Thatluang Tai Village, Saysettha District, 020 5542 6993, 9.30am-5.30pm.

• MINISTRY OF SILK The Ministry of Silk displays a vast array of fine men’s and women’s clothing, fashion accessories, jewellery and handbags. The label is Laos’ first ready-to-wear collection and this flagship is one of the most prestigious stores in Vientiane, serving champagne and wine to customers. 99/01 Nam Phou Square, 021 213 776, 9am-9pm, 7 days, www.ministryofsilk.com.

VIENTIANE

SHOP Listing

| Carol Cassidy Textiles |

| Monument Books |

| Ma Te Sai |

LUANG PRABANG

| Passa Paa |

• MA TE SAI A boutique shop with shelves of original souvenirs and handicrafts. The store seeks to help local people by working with them to sell their products and improve their livelihoods. Many of the souvenirs are made from recycled paper, bamboo and other natural materials. Sisangvong Road, Ban Xieng Mouane, 071 260 654, 8am-9pm, www.matesai.com.

• PHOSI MARKET A small distance away from the centre of town lies Phosi Market. This space sees every smell, sound and sight stake a corner as meat, spices, fresh vegetables, and fruits live side by side with those selling phones, watches and house wares. If you’re after a glimpse of local life, don’t miss this. Photisalath Road, south of Phou Vao Rd, 7am-5pm.

• CAMA CRAFTS This is a non-profit self-help project that supports village women by providing a space for them to sell their goods to a wider audience. Handmade products show off traditional patterns and craft techniques and make excellent mementos or gifts. Ounkham Road, Ban Wath Nong, Luang Prabang, 071 254594, www.camacrafts.org.

• CARUSO LAO All products in here are handmade from wood or silk and wholly produced in Laos, overseen by the shop’s Canadian owner. There are wooden bowls, bed spreads, Buddha heads and cushions to catch the customer’s eye. Sakkarine Road, 071 254574, 9am-9pm, www.carusolao.com.

• NIGHT MARKET Down the length of Sisavangvong Rd is the city’s famous Night Market. Weave under awnings to admire handicrafts such as rosewood carvings and silver jewellery, alongside herbal teas, rice paper diaries and beautiful linen dresses. It’s a friendly market and bargains are to be had. Sisangvong Road, 5pm-11pm, 7 days (weather dependent).

• OCK POP TOK A shop with a difference. Ock Pop Tok seeks to empower local women by developing their artistic skills and sells their items. Woven textiles, bags and scarves are on offer, while they also run classes for visitors who want to try their hand at production or just admire artisans at work. The group also has a flagship store in Ban Vat Nong. Sakkaline Road, Ban Vat Sene, 071 253 219, 8am-9pm, www.ockpoptok.com.

• TRADITIONAL ARTS & ETHNOLOGY CENTRE Although better known as a museum, the centre also supports over 500 handicraft producers from across Laos. They sell beaded necklaces, belts, backpacks, jewellery and lots of other items that showcase the enormous ethnic diversity of Laos. Kitsalat Road, Ban Khamyong, 071 253 364, Tue-Sun 9am-6pm, www.taeclaos.org.

• L’ETRANGER BOOKS & TEA This quaint book café lies close to the Nam Khan River and sells second-hand books. It’s well-stocked and has novels in many languages that cover the arts, travel, fiction, culture and regional history. Over 70 varieties of tea are for sale upstairs. Phousi Road, Ban Aphay, 071 212 880, Mon-Sat 7am-10pm, Sun 10am-10pm.

• PASSA PAA The culmination of British and Lao creative minds, this store is the shopfront for the textile and accessories label of the same name. The label explores the language of desing that has evolved in Laos to re-think, re-interpret, and re-construct patterns, symbols and forms into contemporary bags, scarves, purses and more. 79 Ban Vat Sene, 020 5541 1244, 7 days 8am-8pm, www.passa-paa.com.

| Ma Te Sai |

59

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SLEEP

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| Ansara Hotel |

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| iHouse |

60

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| Salana Boutique Hotel |

4'#,2'�,#

| Settha Palace Hotel |

www.setthapalace.com

E-mail: [email protected]

6 Pang Kham Street, Vientiane, Lao PDR

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A Belmont International Hotel

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60-63.indd 63 11/20/14 2:19 PM

MAP OF VIENTIANE

VIENTIANEAs the nation's capital, Vientiane is a must-experience city when traveling through Laos. Vientiane became the capital in 1563 because of fears surrounding Burmese invasion. Under French rule, it became the administrative capital and in recent times the city has emerged as the country's economic hub. Sitting on the northern banks of the Mekong river, the city has a colourful culture, amazing hospitality and is home to an enviable local and international dining scene. With its French colonial characteristics and leafy boulevards surrounded by rustic temples and coconut palms, this is a city that mixes colonial architecture with a tropical environment. The laidback atmosphere is ideal for visitors, and it is rapidly becoming one of the most fascinating cities to see in Asia.

64

www.muangthonglpb.com

Oupalath Khamboua Rd., Ban Thatluang, Luang Prabang District,Luang Prabang LaosFor more informationTel : (+856 71) 254 976 Fax : (+856 71) 252 974 Email : [email protected] [email protected]

Peacefully located on the discreet side of town, Muangthong is easily accessible with only a few blocks away from all the attractions like Phousi, Royal Palace, Prabang Museum and Luang Prabang Night Market

“Our hotel is your hotel” Discover a destination thatcombines style and authenticity with the romance andcharm of Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage Center. Enjoy the peace of mind when it comes to Ticketing - Reservation or even Flight Check-in. Managed by Lao Airlines we bring it right to you at our hotelOur other services include:Swimming Pool Airport transfer Restaurant Souvenir storeWi�i, Internet Service Meeting room Money Exchange Bicycle, motorbike,Car rental Tour Desk

MUANGTHONG HOTEL