saks fifth avenue men's fall 2014 collection
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DESCRIPTION"Saks Fifth Avenue Men's Fall 2014 Collection." Merchandising Plan. Date completed: December 2013. Brief: Merchandising - Final Project. Merchandising plan for a new men's line for Saks Fifth Avenue. Requirements: (a) Plan must be supported by research on latest men's wear trends; (b) Reflect a close analysis of the retailer's current business model and men's wear offering; (c) Include in-depth breakdown of product categories (by fabrication, color, size, etc.) and notes on details and finishings.
SAKS FIFTH AVENUE MENS FALL 2013 COLLECTION
Anne Chen Merchandising
Parsons the New School for Design Fall 2013
Part I Introduction and NCIS
Numerous recent news articles and industry research show that there has been a revival of interest in mens wear. According to Mr. Marshal Cohen, the Chief Industry Analyst of The NPD Group, Not only are men getting their basics back in order, but it looks as though men are starting to spend outside of basics and join in the overall consumer trends that are focused on getting healthier and buying more comfortable lifestyle products (The NPD Group Inc., 2011, para. 6). The same article states that mens categories, including tailored clothing, has risen over 30% as of February 2011, as male shoppers are more interested than ever in dressing well to communicate success and prestigious, despite the uncertain economy. A September update from CNN says that mens wear has gained much popularity in recent years, with the category growing into a $53 billion dollar business in just the United States (am.blogs.cnn.com, 2011, para. 1). An article written by Simon Goodall for adage.com claims that current male consumers are shopping more than ever, with 84% of them purchasing their own clothes in 2006, a substantial increase since 2002s 64% (Goodall, 2011, para. 1). Perhaps most illuminating is a report from WWDs April Mens Week Issue, in which Saks Fifth Avenues SVP Tom Ott commented on the young male shopper preferring contemporary and designer styles over traditional mens products since the recession (Fairchild Fashion Group, 2011, para. 4). Thus, we wish to plan our merchandise assortment around such industry trends.
The following table and chart, provided from retailsails.coms company profile on Saks Fifth Avenue, indicates the growth of sales in mens wear from 2008 to 2010.
Our Product Category is Mens Wear and our three primary classifications are Denim, Outerwear, and Sport coats, Suits & Vests. The research and study was based off the products strictly sold on Saks.com, these results do not include what is available at the stores.
According to the FAQs section of the North American Industry Classification Systems Web site, NAICS is a two-through six-digit hierarchical classification system, offering five levels of detail (U.S. Census Bureau, 2011). In essence, the more digits in a code, the more detailed the classification. The system is utilized to classify business establishments for the collection, tabulation, presentation, and analysis of statistical data describing the U.S. economy (U.S. Census Bureau, 2011). It was created for statistical purposes, and also to provide Canada, the United States, and Mexico with the means of having a common classification system for the sake of analyzing their and each others economies and industrial productivities. The first two digits of a code represent the economic sector; the manufacturing sector, which we are interested in, is designated by 31, for instance. The next digit shows the subsector 315 thus represents Apparel Manufacturing. As stated by the Website of NAICS, the fourth digit designates the industry group, the fifth digit designates the NAICS industry, and the sixth digit designates the national industry (U.S. Census Bureau, 2011). The fourth digit in the code we are interested in is 2 thus, the industry group is Cut and Sew. The fifth digit, which shows the NAICS industry, is also a 2, and is used to signify Mens and Boys' industry. Thus, so far, our five-digit code is 31522 (Mens and Boys Cut and Sew Apparel Manufacturing). As the three primary product categories we wish to pursue in Mens Wear are Denim, Outerwear, and Sportcoats, Suits, and Vests, there are three complete six-digit NAICS codes that we can look at: 315222 (Mens and Boys' Cut and Sew Suit, Coat, and Overcoat Manufacturing), 315224 (Mens and Boys' Cut and Sew Trouser, Slack, and Jean Manufacturing), and 315228 (Mens and Boys' Cut and Sew Other Outerwear Manufacturing). If we wished to incorporate some knitwear into our outerwear, the NAICS code we would look at is the one for Outerwear Knitting Mills, which is 315191. If we wished to incorporate leather into any of our pieces, the NAICS code we would look at is the one for Fur and Leather Apparel Manufacturing (except for apparel contracting), which is 315292.
Part II Product Categories
We are pursuing a collection that is not only versatile and communicates great style, but is also durable and can last our customers for more than a single season. It is also important that the collection allows wearers to easily transition from day to night.
The collection will be a harmonious marriage between casualness and elitism. Pieces will thus be able to be worn by those in the Young Digerati and Money & Brains segments alike, as both the younger and older generations are seeking clothes that offer both versatility and fashion to communicate their cultured tastes and refined lifestyles.
The collection will include smartly tailored jackets, as well as warm outerwear, that are easy to throw over button-down shirts or even a simple sweater. It will also include quality denim pants that will provide customers with long-lasting value. According to an article on Lifestyle Monitor, consumers see the value in paying a little more for a jean that will fit better and last longer (Supply Chain Insights: Denim Jeans: State of the U.S. Market, para. 6) indeed, jeans are seen as an worthy investment to many shoppers, and well-received denim products in our collection will thus help ensure customer loyalty and future sales.
Examples of overall looks that can be created using pieces in our collection can be captured by the following images, which can be found on Saks Website, of Burberry London and Burberry Brit ensembles. They emphasize casual cool and relaxed luxury.
Burberry London Burberry Brit for the natty chap for the boundary defier
Page 20 delves further into the different categorizations of each product category, listing the designer brands, fabrications, and colors available under each category, as well as the number of items available for each brand, fabrication, and color.
DENIM It is evident that the most utilized fabrication for denim jeans is cotton or cotton/denim, though a substantial number of denim jeans carried by Saks Fifth Avenue are also made of cotton/elastin. The majority of denim jeans are straight styles, and most are designed by contemporary designers, with 7 For All Mankind offering the greatest number of jeans. Most jeans are in the color blue, so our collection should focus on this color, though we will incorporate other colors, such as black and grey, to give customers a varied selection.
OUTERWEAR Most of the outerwear offered at Saks is made of down or quilted fabrics, though wool and cashmere products are also abundant. Outerwear can also utilize fur as a trim, and toggle closures as detailing. Trench coat styles will also be offered, and will be made of wool blends as well as cashmere. It is essential that outwear keep our customer warm as well as looking chic. Leather jacket styles as well as bomber jacket styles will also be offered, as these are pieces that customers enjoy wearing to not only keep out the cold but to look cool and edgy.
Black is the most common outerwear color, and this keeps with our collections overall palette of muted, dark colors. However, it is also important to incorporate some color, as an article on Fashion Trendsetter discusses the popularity of contrasting bright hues with darker ones when it comes to mens wear; even a bold slash of color can make a garment or an entire outfit stand out among others (Nunes, para. 2). Perhaps a colorful belt thrown over a charcoal grey trench coat, or a vivid plaid scarf tucked into a black coats collar, will be considered.
SPORTS COATS, SUITS & VESTS Most of the pieces in the sports coats, suits & vests product category are made of wool, or of wool in combination with another fabric, such as cashmere, cotton, or Lycia. The most common color again is black.
Our collection will focus on less-dressy pieces, instead of full suits and tuxedo ensembles, such as casual blazers that can easily transition from day to nightwear. Plaid is a pattern that will be considered, as this a pattern that is featured often in Saks bestsellers category. Sweater vest styles can also utilize interesting, unique patterns, such as jacquard patterns or striped patterns. Button details should also be emphasized, and special attention should be paid to lapels and collar detailing. Leather lapels on jackets/vests would add certain uniqueness to a style. Fit is especially important suits and vests should be well-tailored and utilize data from past seasons measurements of best sellers in menswear.
Deeper dives into each product category are outlined below. For further breakdowns of each category, please refer to page 20.
The various styles that mens denim has are boot cut, straight, and slim. Bootcut denim have a wider leg on the bottom and are not snug fit. Straight denim has the same fit and almost looks identical except for the fact the leg on the bottom is slightly narrower. Slim jeans are mens
version of womens skinny jeans, which means that they are snug fit and are really narrow at the leg. The colors that are available for denim are black, blue, grey, tan, and brown. There are 4 black jeans, 22 blue jeans, 7 grey jeans, 1 tan jean, and 1 brown jean available on Saks.com. Based on these results, the colors that seem to predominate are dark colors because blue jeans and grey jeans have the most inventory. The ratio of solid to prints in the case of denim is 10:1, meaning there are no prints on denim available for men and that solid is the most popular in the denim category. The primary fabrics that mens denim is made out of are cotton, elastene, and polyester. The top five brands for mens denim are 7 for all Mankind, True Religion, Joes, AG Adriano Goldschmied, and J Brand.
The various styles that mens outerwear has are down & quilted, wool, cashmere, leather, trench coats, raincoats, and vests. The colors that are available for outerwear are beige, black, blue, brown, green, grey, orange, red, tan, white, and yellow. There are 8 beige, 147 black, 40 blue, 23 brown, 16 green, 40 grey, 3 multicolor, 1 orange, 6 red, 8 tan, 1 white, and 1 yellow available in outerwear. Based on these results the colors that seem to predominate are dark colors because black, blue, grey, and brown have the most inventory.
The ratio of solid to prints in the case of outerwear is 9.7:1, which to our surprise there were six printed outerwear items available. They are a red plaid printed puffer jacket from DSquared, two check printed pea coats from Dolce & Gabbana, two lightweight Gucci Jackets with the Gucci logo monogram look, and lastly a tromp plaid vest from McQ. Even though there a few printed outerwear items there still remains a dominance of solid color outerwear in the mens department. The primary fabrics that seem to be used in mens outerwear are wool, nylon, polyester, and cotton. The top five brands for mens outerwear are Andrew Marc, Burberry Brit, Armani Collezioni, RLX Ralph Lauren, and Moncler.
SPORTS COATS, SUITS & VESTS
The various styles that mens sports coats, suits & vests section has are blazers, vests, and suits. The colors that are available in this category are 21 black, 16 grey, 14 blue, 3 brown, 2 multicolor, 1 purple, and 1 green. Based on these results, once again the colors that seem to predominate are dark colors because black and grey dominate the majority. The ratio of solid to prints in the case of sports coats, suits & vests are 9:1, meaning that solid colors are the most popular in this category. The primary fabrics that are used in mens sports coats, suits & vests are wool, wool crepe, cashmere, and polyamide. The top five brands for are Armani Collezioni, Boss Black, Saks Fifth Avenue Mens Collection, Versace Collection, and Marc by Marc Jacobs.
Part III Size Range and Design Details
Our research from our consumer profiling indicates that the Saks Fifth Avenue shopper who lives within the 10022 zip code lives a fit, fashionable, and healthy lifestyle. According to Medical News Today, the average American man has a 34 inch waist (Medical News Today, para. 8). Fit, active male consumers who patron Saks Fifth Avenue would thus probably wear Medium or Large-size outerwear pieces and jackets. The following was taken from Saks Fifth Avenues Mens General Sizing Guide, which can be found on the retailers Website.
Design details we wish to consider were briefly mentioned before, and are noted and further described below, utilizing images of Best Sellers from the Saks Fifth Avenue Website. According to a ny.racked.com article written by Frank Gargione, Saks Fifth Avenue actually dedicated a whole store-front window display to mens wear, featuring a collection by Viktor & Rolf (Gargione, 2010, par. 1). The super-preppy and affordable pieces from Michael Bastians Gant collection, as well as contemporary lines from the likes of Rag & Bone and Marc by Marc Jacobs, have been performing very well, and we thus derive much of our design considerations from such designers.
Above are examples of the straight leg style, which is the most common style offered by Saks Fifth Avenue in their denim category. Best sellers are comprised mainly of dark-washed styles, though some styles utilize gentle stone-washing such that the denims natural cross-hatching can be readily seen. Fit is relaxed and comfortable. Below is an example of a pair of 7 For All Mankind jeans, which feature a five-pocket style and are made from cotton. As mentioned before, most denim products offered in the merchandise assortment of Saks Fifth Avenue are made from cotton/cotton denim, though some styles do have elastin or spandex as well. Jeans are essential to any mans wardrobe, as they are comfortable and easy to pair with almost any top. A good pair of jeans, moreover, can last for more than one season.
Rag & Bone COTTON
SLIM STRAIGHT-LEGGED JEANS $185
blue resin-wash tint, five-pocket style
Gant by Michael Bastian COTTON
SKI-STYLE STRAIGHT-LEG JEANS $295
stitched knee detail
7 For All Mankind COTTON
HOLLOMAN N RELAXED STRAIGHT-LEG JEANS $189
hand-sanding, whiskers, and chevron detailing at
Other denim styles include boot cut and slim. Back pocket embroidery detail should also be considered, as it gives a pair of jeans uniqueness and edginess. Colors other than blue, such as the light grey shown in the 7 For All Mankind pair below, should also be considered to provide variety in the collection. An interesting faded wash, a longtime favorite among customers, should also be included in the collection.
COTTON RICKY EMBORIDERED STRAIGHT-LEG
JEANS $235 7 For All Mankind
90% COTTON/8% POLYESTER/2% SPANDEX
NATE SLIM BOOTCUT JEANS $189 D-Squared COTTON/ELASTIN SLIM-FIT JEANS/GREY $450
Denim prices range from $98 to $590, depending on the fabrication, wash, and detailing of the pant. Of course, the cheapest pair of jeans is the simplest a black-washed, cotton pair with a classic fit and five-pocket style by Polo Ralph Lauren. The most expensive is a slim-fitted pair with contrast stitching and a dark stone washed finish by Gucci. 7 styles fall within the $50 to $150 range; 161 styles fall within the $150 to $300 range; 17 styles fall within the $300 to $500 range; and 2 styles fall within the $500 to $1,000 range. As most jeans are priced in the $150 to $300 range, and those that are priced higher belong to prestigious luxury brands, such as Gucci and Dior, it would be best to price our collections denim more reasonably for instance, around $165 or $198 as our collection is part of our private label brand.
As wool is one of the most popular fabric used in Saks outerwear category, we will focus our fabrication for the outerwear pieces in our collection on wool. Details to be considered include interesting closures, such as the toggle closures seen in the below examples from Rag & Bone and Viktor & Rolf.
Pocket detailing will also be important in our collection. Leather jackets, for instance, will feature waist zip pockets and well as chest zip pockets.
Rag & Bone VIRGIN WOOL MILES DUFFLE COAT $695
toggle closures side zip pockets hooded back
Viktor & Rolf BOILED WOOL TOGGLE COAT $1,795
over-sized toggle closure waist zip pockets
Rag & Bone 60% WOOL / 38% POLYAMIDE / 2% ELASTIN BERGAN JACKET $395
soft-knit wool w/ a fine hand and reverse seaming allover zip front w/ snap storm flap dual entry pockets
D-Squared LEATHER (FULLY LINED) PATCHED LEATHER BOMBER JACKET $1,795
banded collar double-zip front chest, waist zip pockets sleeve zips adjustable waist tabs
This two-tone, wool-blend Armani Collezioni trench provides a great example of an interesting and unique coat that our male shoppers will favor. It also features a touch of cashmere, as well as a detachable hood. Other details, similar to the ones seen in this trench, which we may consider for the trenches in our collection include a buckle neck tab, a single-breasted button front, a one button flap chest pocket, front angled flap pockets, a back slit hem, and buckle tabs on the sleeve. Trenches will also have a buckle/tie belt.
Details to notice on this Andrew Marc Moto Rad Racer Leather Jacket include a band
collar with snap close, a zip front, snap cuffs, angled front zip pockets snap tabs at the waist, an embossed lining, and ribbing at the shoulder and elbows. Such features create an overall sleek and refined jacket made from Italian leather.
Saks trench and raincoats are priced from $138 to $2,250. 3 coats fall within the range of $50 to $150; 12 are priced between $150 to $300; 13 cost between $300 to $500; 28 are priced between $500 and $1,000; 7 cost between $1,000 to $2,000; and 1 costs over $2,000. Leather jackets are priced from $495 to $4,300, with 9 priced between $300 and $500; 17 priced between $500 to $1,000; 10 priced between $1,000 to $2,000; 7 priced over $2,000. As we are creating a private label collection, we should keep our prices in the lower price tier, pricing our trenches between $500 and $700 and our leather jackets between $500 and $700 as well.
Sports coats, Suits & Vests
The vests and blazers in our collection should have unique features, such as the color-blocked back seen in the below Marc by Marc Jacobs woven vest (top), or the pocket square seen in the Scotch & Soda denim blazer (bottom).
To keep costs down, we should utilize wool as well in our sport coats, suits, and vests. As
we are not focusing on entire dinner party suit ensembles, but instead on jackets that can make an easy transition from day to night, blazers should be casual yet stylish at the same time.
Marc by Marc Jacobs 80% WOOL / 20% POLYESTER WOVEN VEST $298
color-blocked back decorative chest, with button front and waist pockets
Scotch & Soda 54% COTTON / 46% LINEN DENIM BLAZER $192
gently rumpled denim w/ a half-constructed silhouette pocket square single button closure chest, waist patch pockets decorative chest, with button front and waist pockets
The below Herringbone wool blazer by Burberry Brit, priced at $595, features details that should be considered for the blazers in our collection. These include a two-button closure, a rear vent, a chest welt, and waist flap pockets. Such a modern jacket may be easily paired with a pair of jeans from our collection as well.
Introducing a print in one of our blazers, such as the plaid print shown below in the Saks
Fifth Avenue Mens Collection plaid wool/silk blazer, would provide variety to our collection. The style has a well-defined finish thanks to the hint of silk in the fabric composition. Other details include a two-button closure, a chest ticket pocket, waist flap pockets, side vents, and full lining. It is priced at $698, and the blazers in our collection should be priced around the same.
Sport coats, suits, and vests offered at Saks Fifth Avenue are priced from $125 to $3,100, with the most expensive jacket being an evening jacket made from cotton tulfan velvet by Gucci. 2 styles are priced between $50 and $150; 4 between $150 and $300; 17 between $300 and $500; 17 between $500 and $1,000; 13 between $1,000 and $2,000; and 2 priced over $2,000. Our collections blazers should be priced around $700 to $1,000, while our vests should be priced around $200 to $400.
DenimFabrications Colors Styles Lifestyle
7 FOR ALL MANKIND (39) JOE'S (18) COTTON/COTTON DENIM (123) BEIGE (2) BOOTCUT (20) PREMIERE DESIGNER (19)A.P.C. (2) LACOSTE (1) COTTON/ELASTENE (43) BLACK (17) STRAIGHT (160) CONTEMPORARY (146)AG ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED (15) LEVI'S MADE & CRAFTED (4) COTTON/ELASTIC (2) BLUE (155) SLIM (42) MODERN (28)ARMANI COLLEZIONI (2) MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA (1) COTTON/LINEN (2) BROWN (4)BOSS BLACK (4) MARC BY MARC JACOBS 95) COTTON/LINO (1) GREEN (2)BRIONI (2) MCQ ALEXANDER MCQUEEN (1) COTTON/LYCRA (3) GREY (15)BURBERRY BRIT (4) MICHAEL KORS (3) COTTON/POLYESTER (8) RED (1)BURBERRY LONDON (4) POLO RALPH LAUREN (8) COTTON/POLYESTER/ELASTENE (2) SILVER (1)D SQUARED (3) RAG & BONE (2) COTTON/POLYESTER/SPANDEX (3) TAN (4)DIESEL (5) RALPH LAUREN BLACK LABEL (2) COTTON/POLYURETRHANE (6) WHITE (2)DIOR HOMME (2) ROBERT GRAHAM (1) COTTON/SPANDEX (14)DOLCE & GABBANA (1) SPURR (2)EARNEST SEWN (5) THEORY (2)ELIE TAHARI (2) TRUE RELIGION (21)GANT BY MICHAEL BASTIAN (1) VERSACE COLLECTION (4)GANT RUGGER (1) VIKTOR & ROLF (2)GUCCI (1) VINCE (3)HUDSON (13) ZEGNA SPORT (2)J BRAND (19)
Total: 228 ItemsDesigner Brands
OuterwearFabrications Colors Lifestyle
611 SAKS FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK (2) LACOSTE LIVE (1) DOWN & QUILTED (82) BEIGE (10) PREMIERE DESIGNER (67)7 FOR ALL MANKIND (2) MACKAGE (8) WOOL, CASHMERE & MORE (72) BLACK (119) CONTEMPORARY (125)A.P.C. (3) MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA (4) LEATHER & MORE (43) BLUE (49) MODERN (99)ANDREW MARC (14) MARC BY MARC JACOBS (4) TRENCHCOATS & RAINCOATS (68) BROWN (13)ARMANI COLLEZIONI (11) MCQ ALEXANDER MCQUEEN (2) VESTS (25) GREEN (15)BOSS BLACK (5) MICHAEL KORS (11) GREY (41)BOSS GREEN (1) MONCLER (10) MULTICOLOR (3)BURBERRY BRIT (18) POLO RALPH LAUREN (8) ORANGE (3)BURBERRY SPORT (1) RAG & BONE (6) RED (6)COLE HAAN (8) RALPH LAUREN BLACK LABEL (9) TAN (6)CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION (1) RLX RALPH LAUREN (17) WHITE (2)COLE HAAN (8) ROBERT GRAHAM (1)CONVERSE BLACK CANVAS (3) SAKS FIFTH AVENUE MEN'S COLLECTION (3)D SQUARED (6) SALVATORE FERRAGAMO (4)DIESEL (6) SANYO (4)DIORE HOMME (3) SCOTCH & SODA (5)DOLCE & GABBANA (3) SOL ANGELES (1)ELIE TAHARI (5) STEVEN ALAN (2)GANT BY MICHALE BASTIAN (1) THEORY (5)GANT RUGGER (5) TRUE RELIGION (2)GUCCI (17) UGG AUSTRALIA (4)HUGO (2) VERSACE COLLECTION (5)HUNTER (3) VIKTOR & ROLF (3)JIL SANDER (2) VINCE (6)LACOSTE (3) VINEYARD VINES (2)
Total: 260 ItemsDesigner Brands
Sport Coats, Suits & VestsDesigner Brands Fabrications Colors Lifestyle611 SAKS FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK (3) SPORTCOATS & VESTS (52) BEIGE (1) PREMIERE DESIGNER (25)A.P.C. (1) SUITS (8) BLACK (21) CONTEMPORARY (20)ARMANI COLLEZIONI (9) BLUE (16) MODERN (17)BOSS BLACK (2) BROWN (3)BURBERRY BRIT (1) GREEN (1)BURBERRY LONDON (1) GREY (14)COMPANY OF WE (1) MULTICOLOR (2)DIOR HOMME (1) PURPLE (1)DOLCE & GABBANA (3)ELIE TAHARI (1)GANT RUGGER (2)GUCCI (4)HUGO (1)MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA (1)MARC BY MARC JACOBS (3)MICHAEL KORS (1)RAG & BONE (2)RALPH LAUREN BLACK LABEL (2)ROBERT GRAHAM (1)SAKS FIFTH AVENUE CROWN LABEL (1)SAKS FIFTH AVENUE MEN'S COLLECTION (4)SCOTCH & SODA (1)THEORY (3)VERSACE COLLECTION (3)VIKTOR & ROLF (2)VINCE (1)
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According to the FAQs section of the North American Industry Classification Systems Web site, NAICS is a two-through six-digit hierarchical classification system, offering five levels of detail (U.S. Census Bureau, 2011). In essence, the more dig...OVERVIEWWe are pursuing a collection that is not only versatile and communicates great style, but is also durable and can last our customers for more than a single season. It is also important that the collection allows wearers to easily transition from day ...The collection will be a harmonious marriage between casualness and elitism. Pieces will thus be able to be worn by those in the Young Digerati and Money & Brains segments alike, as both the younger and older generations are seeking clothes that offer...The collection will include smartly tailored jackets, as well as warm outerwear, that are easy to throw over button-down shirts or even a simple sweater. It will also include quality denim pants that will provide customers with long-lasting value. Acc...Examples of overall looks that can be created using pieces in our collection can be captured by the following images, which can be found on Saks Website, of Burberry London and Burberry Brit ensembles. They emphasize casual cool and relaxed luxury.Merchandise Planning.pdfDenimOuterwearSportcoats, Suits, Vests