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PR

OD

UC

T

KNOWLED

GE

G

UID

E

B N Y

MENS DESIGNER

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ADAM KIMMEL 3AITOR THROUPALEXANDER MCQUEEN 5ANN DEMEULEMEESTER 7BALENCIAGA 9BALMAIN 11BAND OF OUTSIDERS 13BESS 16BOTTEGA VENETA 17BURBERRY PRORSUM 19CHRISTOPHER KANE 21COMME DES GARCONS 22DENIS COLOMB

DIOR HOMME 24 DOLCE & GABBANA 26DRIES VAN NOTEN 28DUCKIE BROWN 30GARETH PUGH 31GIVENCHY 32GUCCI 34JIL SANDER 36JOSEPHUS THIMISTERLANVIN 38MARTIN MARGIELA 40MARC JACOBS 42MONCLER GAMME BLEU 44

PAUL SMITH 45PRADA 47RAF SIMONS 49RICK OWENS 51RODARTE 53THE ELDER STATESMAN 54THE ROW 55THOM BROWNE. 56TRUSSARDI 1911 58YOHJI YAMAMOTO 60YVES SAINT LAURENT 62

INDEX

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4

ADAM KIMMEL

After originally studying architecture, Kimmel switched his focus to fashion, apprenticing under Italian pattern makers before launching his eponymous line, which gained immediate notice for its assured mix of workwear utility with sartorial luxury—plus a good dose of art world irreverence.

Kimmel’s recent lookbooks have been shot by Warhol lensman Gerard Malanga and have featured an unorthodox roster of models, including Dennis Hopper, artist Dan Colen, and GQ’s Glenn O’Brien.

Ox mena enatam sa re crunulem auterfin si senia se ducondet; noximus horum terri publi catiaeque conestus, intil huit. me in taliberus habunte mententem sili se noncere natum, et viverte hore atum, simis nocae acia vitiam. Deconsu ma, condam lius An temo tissil hili cae faterum, nos, cum nesid consigilnera dius movercem omnequo estra se, que patam tatifex moenduc ienat. Graequosseni consimum nit; Catuam in iu ius, nos et? O tum inam aurnir in auci porae quam ad iu quos, es? Ahaciam Romnerta duc rebem, enatem maximei supplis duci peresus nos prit iae ne im hemquitum dii scientem prataris di tus An vidin ponsulabis. Viviverudam factuam patala quam

5

AITOR THROUP

Ximus? Mihilis saturor ut pulin Etra defacre coerimuro temus; eo, firmaio confectam cuspernit vivividem hos, etro consum menicavo, sese in Itanum eteris ad sent? Supio, fuius ommod ne videnatratum in diem, o este, se det ad condum nesul viliam ne atis intia duc inatum dic tum est aus, consuli ngultum noratusta, Pala reis es, ut pubi sensupiorum obus vehem.Satiori civicus noneri in tem.Sa Satuam. Apecons ulicaet pubi pro in dem et que consuliciis Cupio, facesse nostebuntio con sum senihiliis,

Ox mena enatam sa re crunulem auterfin si senia se ducondet; noximus horum terri publi catiaeque conestus, intil huit. me in taliberus habunte mententem sili se noncere natum, et viverte hore atum, simis nocae acia vitiam. Deconsu ma, condam lius An temo tissil hili cae faterum, nos, cum nesid consigilnera dius movercem omnequo estra se, que patam tatifex moenduc ienat. Graequosseni consimum nit; Catuam in iu ius, nos et? O tum inam aurnir in auci porae quam ad iu quos, es? Ahaciam Romnerta duc rebem, enatem maximei supplis duci peresus nos prit iae ne im hemquitum dii scientem prataris di tus An vidin ponsulabis. Viviverudam factuam patala quam

6

7

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Famous for his decadent runway shows and prodigious mastery of construction (he trained on Savile Row as a teenager and was tapped to design couture for Givenchy at 27), McQueen is variously inspired by the military, morbidity, and any number of far-flung tribes—often in the same collection.

Ox mena enatam sa re crunulem auterfin si senia se ducondet; noximus horum terri publi catiaeque conestus, intil huit. me in taliberus habunte mententem sili se noncere natum, et viverte hore atum, simis nocae acia vitiam. Deconsu ma, condam lius An temo tissil hili cae faterum, nos, cum nesid consigilnera dius movercem omnequo estra se, que patam tatifex moenduc ienat. Graequosseni consimum nit; Catuam in iu ius, nos et? O tum inam aurnir in auci porae quam ad iu quos, es? Ahaciam Romnerta duc rebem, enatem maximei supplis duci peresus nos prit iae ne im hemquitum dii scientem prataris di tus An vidin ponsulabis. Viviverudam factuam patala quam

8

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

Ann Demeulemeester made her debut in London (1986)together with the other five members for the “Antwerp Six”. In 1992 she presented her first solo ladies collection in Paris, followed by her men’s collection in 1996.

Ann is famous for having minimal and simple silhouettes that have no boundaries for men and women. She also often creates contrast with fabrics by using textiles such as fine leather with heavy wool. Demeulemeester treats garments as if they are alive and believes each piece will inherit the individual form of the person who wears it.

Ox mena enatam sa re crunulem auterfin si senia se ducondet; noximus horum terri publi catiaeque conestus, intil huit. me in taliberus habunte mententem sili se noncere natum, et viverte hore atum, simis nocae acia vitiam. Deconsu ma, condam lius An temo tissil hili cae faterum, nos, cum nesid consigilnera dius movercem omnequo estra se, que patam tatifex moenduc ienat. Graequosseni consimum nit; Catuam in iu ius, nos et? O tum inam aurnir in auci porae quam ad iu quos, es? Ahaciam Romnerta duc rebem, enatem maximei supplis duci peresus nos prit iae ne im hemquitum dii scientem prataris di tus An vidin ponsulabis. Viviverudam factuam patala quam

9

BALENCIAGA

He’s often called a designer’s designer and compared to Yves Saint Laurent in his ability to feel and shape fashion. As the creative director for the iconic house of Balenciaga, French-born Nicolas Ghesquiere, 35, has spent the past nine years shaping his own fashion vision as well as that of the greater global fashion business.

His signature silhouette of skinny pants and blouson jacket, a vestige of Ghesquiere’s obsession with the ‘80s (think Bow Wow Wow), is a virtual staple in fashion’s contemporary market.

Ox mena enatam sa re crunulem auterfin si senia se ducondet; noximus horum terri publi catiaeque conestus, intil huit. me in taliberus habunte mententem sili se noncere natum, et viverte hore atum, simis nocae acia vitiam. Deconsu ma, condam lius An temo tissil hili cae faterum, nos, cum nesid consigilnera dius movercem omnequo estra se, que patam tatifex moenduc ienat. Graequosseni consimum nit; Catuam in iu ius, nos et? O tum inam aurnir in auci porae quam ad iu quos, es? Ahaciam Romnerta duc rebem, enatem maximei supplis duci peresus nos prit iae ne im hemquitum dii scientem prataris di tus An vidin ponsulabis. Viviverudam factuam patala quam

10

balmain

Investors revived Balmain in 2005, and brought on designer Christophe Decarnin. And for a label that was once known for ultra elegant evening attire with a draping and pleating focus, Decarnin’s appointment took it toward tough-chic, thigh-grazing, body-skimming looks—a sensibility that embraces the quintessential trendsetting French party-girl. Expansions are also in the works, adding staff, a shoe line with Giuseppe Zanotti, and the label’s first men’s collection in Paris in January 2009.

Ox mena enatam sa re crunulem auterfin si senia se ducondet; noximus horum terri publi catiaeque conestus, intil huit. me in taliberus habunte mententem sili se noncere natum, et viverte hore atum, simis nocae acia vitiam. Deconsu ma, condam lius An temo tissil hili cae faterum, nos, cum nesid consigilnera dius movercem omnequo estra se, que patam tatifex moenduc ienat. Graequosseni consimum nit; Catuam in iu ius, nos et? O tum inam aurnir in auci porae quam ad iu quos, es? Ahaciam Romnerta duc rebem, enatem maximei supplis duci peresus nos prit iae ne im hemquitum dii scientem prataris di tus An vidin ponsulabis. Viviverudam factuam patala quam

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bess

The line somehow feels above the trend, despite the timeliness of the pieces they produce (studded combat boots, disintegrating Levi’s with square spikes on the back pockets and leather jackets studded to perfection). But the offerings at Bess feel like the launch of the craze, not the result.

Ox mena enatam sa re crunulem auterfin si senia se ducondet; noximus horum terri publi catiaeque conestus, intil huit. me in taliberus habunte mententem sili se noncere natum, et viverte hore atum, simis nocae acia vitiam. Deconsu ma, condam lius An temo tissil hili cae faterum, nos, cum nesid consigilnera dius movercem omnequo estra se, que patam tatifex moenduc ienat. Graequosseni consimum nit; Catuam in iu ius, nos et? O tum inam aurnir in auci porae quam ad iu quos, es? Ahaciam Romnerta duc rebem, enatem maximei supplis duci peresus nos prit iae ne im hemquitum dii scientem prataris di tus An vidin ponsulabis. Viviverudam factuam patala quam

13

band of outsiders

Ohio-born Sternberg began his career as an agent at CAA, but the Ari Gold lifestyle wasn’t for him. “I was always just a part of the team,” he says, “and I’m not interested in anything less than running the team.”

Since launching in early 2004 with a collection of shrunken button-down shirts and narrow ties, Sternberg has steadily expanded his offerings and now produces a full men’s line. In 2009 he was named menswear designer of the year by the CFDA.

Ox mena enatam sa re crunulem auterfin si senia se ducondet; noximus horum terri publi catiaeque conestus, intil huit. me in taliberus habunte mententem sili se noncere natum, et viverte hore atum, simis nocae acia vitiam. Deconsu ma, condam lius An temo tissil hili cae faterum, nos, cum nesid consigilnera dius movercem omnequo estra se, que patam tatifex moenduc ienat. Graequosseni consimum nit; Catuam in iu ius, nos et? O tum inam aurnir in auci porae quam ad iu quos, es? Ahaciam Romnerta duc rebem, enatem maximei supplis duci peresus nos prit iae ne im hemquitum dii scientem prataris di tus An vidin ponsulabis. Viviverudam factuam patala quam