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Samples in apparel industry:

By Md. Mohsin Alam

There are three broad classes of samples; each of them is used for a particular phase. These sequential phases are design, sales and production. Design related samples are to model design ideas and finalize the pattern for production. Sales related samples are used to predict orders from buyers. The last type of samples is intended to test consistency in production. Technically, all sampling should take place during the first phase of design (R&D) because selling (second phase) is impossible if there is absence of production (third phase) lined up. There is quite a bit of overlap in the sample depending on operation. The following are the various type of samples used in apparel industry:

Sample garment: The garment which is produced according to buyer measurement is called sample garment.

Prototype sample: A prototype sample is an early sample built to test a concept or process or to act as a thing to be replicated or learned from. A prototype sample is designed to test and try a new design to enhance precision by system analysts and users. Prototype sampling serves to provide specifications for a real, working system rather than a theoretical one. This sample is made by the buyer measurement & there may be a slight deviation. This is the first sample in product development stage. In proto samples fit and fabric detailing is not considered.

Fit sample: Once proto sample is approved, FIT is being made with actual measurement. Modification on the pattern is done to get desired fit of the garment. FIT is one of the most important factor to be considered during sample development. This is a sample made from the first pattern and intended to test the designer’s idea/concept or to verify garment fit and fall in the chosen fabrication by putting on the sample in a required size and shape of dummy. In this case, the use of the original fabric is not mandatory. If design, fabrication and fit of this sample come out as planned and don’t need corrections, it is approved and becomes the prototype sample. This sample is also known as original sample, sample test garment, development sample, style reference, parent pattern & design sample.

Pre-production (PP) sample: The sample which is made by using actual measurement, fabric & accessories according to buyer specification and send to buyer for checking is called Pre-production (PP) sample. This sampling stage is to prove the pattern, test cost effectiveness and consistency in production whether it is done in house or outsourced to a contractor. Buyer wants pre-production sample (PP sample) to be made in actual production line, so that operators know what they are going to

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make. This sample is made with actual fabric, trims and accessories and made by sewing line tailors. PP sample must be approved by buyer or buying house merchants (technical persons) prior to proceeding actual production. In this case, only medium size and may or may not be all color of sample are sent to buyer. This sample is also known as pre-pro sample, P/P sample, costing sample, counter sample, salesman’s sample, sales sample & duplicates.

Size set sample: The purpose of the size set is to check fit of the garment in different sizes. In this stage, factory develops samples in multiple sizes. Generally, buyers ask size set sample in jump sizes, like S, L, XXL. Buyer check size set sample and give feedback to factory if anything need to be corrected. Ideally we design sizes to target our customer profile early on in product development. This may not be possible if your silhouettes vary greatly between styles, meaning you will need to test sizes of various styles. This sample is also known as sizing sample & size run sample.

Approved sample: The sample which is approved by buyer is called approved sample. Generally 3 pieces sample are made for approval of buyer. 2 pieces are sending to buyer and 1 piece is for counter sample. After approval of sample; buyer take one piece and send approved sample to the manufacturer. The merchandiser sends it for bulk production in the production unit.

Production sample: This is the final approved version of a style produced by producer. Often a production test run is done and the output is gauged for quality and the samples ideally used for marketing, promotion, pre-sales and perhaps trunk sales. The quantity of units produced will vary from one to a percentage of the intended production lot size. This can be very expensive if the run includes sample of all colors and sizes. Generally, a single size or color of production sample is sent to buyer when it is followed by sending all size & colored size set sample to buyer. This sample is also known as counter sample & spec sample.

Counter Sample: Counter sample is one kind of approved sample which is not signed by buyer is called counter sample. This sample is hanged on the sewing floor for smooth production. To reserve with pattern for future order from buyer.

Salesmanship sample: Salesmanship samples are made to put on display in the retail showroom. Salesmanship sample (SMS) are displayed for assessing customer's feedback and according to customers response buyers forecast demand of a particular style. Salesmanship samples are made with actual fabric and trims and accessories. Buyer pays for salesmanship samples to the developer. This is the extra order of sample than the regular order of sample. This sample is also known as show sample, showroom sample & merchandising sample.

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Shipment Sample: When style is being finished and packed for shipment, 2-3 finished and packed pieces with all packing details are kept for future reference. Shipment sample is kept by factory merchants and buyer's merchant. The approved shipment is sent directly to warehouse and merchants at the buyer do not get garment out of the shipment. That is why they keep shipment sample for future reference. This is done to inform the buyer that the producer sent this sample. This has no relation with quality. This sample is also known as ship sample & fulfillment sample.

Customs sample: The sample which is send to the customs department as declaration of any size and quality.

Top of Production Sample (TOP sample): Once production is online, few pieces is taken out in the middle of the production. Production pieces are sent to buyer as TOP sample. All buyers do not ask for TOP sample. Purpose is to cross-check whether factory is following PP sample specification or not. A TOP sample is pulled from the first production run.

Photo sample: These samples are made in smaller sizes for photo shoots intended for editorial and marketing, previously a size 4 but these days maybe a size 0. This may not be necessary if you can pin a garment strategically on the model. If you intend to shoot flats, you may need to cut the smaller size because it’s hard to get close enough to fit garment attributes in the frame. Some people know they will need smaller sizes for photography so they use this as their base size. This sample is also known as model sizes sample, flat sample & editorial sample.

Final Sample: One final approved sample should always be kept in house as a means to verify production results. It shouldn’t be loaned to anyone. In effect, production counter sample should be the final sample but contractor may use it in production as sew by so you will need two.

Revised or Revision Sample: A revised sample is any kind of sample that is a correction of an earlier sample that was not approved. If a revised sample is approved, it would become known as whatever kind of sample it is intended to be.

Mock-up sample: This is a concept sample, often a rough rendition of a drape sewn together. Used primarily by designers who prefer to convey design ideas in actual fabric as part of their creation process instead of drawing a sketch or they have an idea but can’t articulate it so they put fabric to mannequin instead. This sample is also known as dummy, drape and muslin sample.

Sew by sample: This sample reflects all of the desired construction details and is used to solicit contract sewing bids (CM&T). It is called sew by because contractors use this sample to create a costing or pre-production sample. Again, ideally the prototype

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sample is also sew by sample. Particular care should be taken in designating a sample as a sew-by because for better or worse, the quote will be built on this. This sample is also known as pre-production sample, pre-pro & costing sample.