Sarah Leifeld

Corbett

November 17, 2011

AP Literature

7th period

Does the thrill of an extreme sport outweigh the inevitable risk that it

accompanies? Rock climbing sculpts both the mind and the body as it works to achieve a

balance between these incongruent aspects of the sport. With the use of focused

technique and certified equipment, the inherent danger can be minimized and the

excitement of rock climbing maximized.

The origins of sport climbing can be traced over a hundred years. Although the

practice of rock climbing is seen across history, its transformation from necessity to sport

has not been distinctly defined. However, most historians agree that sport climbing arose

sometime during the late 19th century in various parts of Europe. According to “Origins

of Bouldering” the first documentation of bouldering was recorded in a diary entry that

read, “During hiking trips … [they] discovered for themselves the magic of these

sandstone boulders. As they fell under the forest's spell, they realized bouldering would

be an excellent way to prepare for their future alpine expeditions” (Gill). A Frenchman,

Emmanuel Ratouis, authored this entry in 1874 about his excursion to Fontainebleau with

the hiking group, Club Alpin Francais. With this and other groups, such as Rochier and

Groupe de Haute Montagne, rock climbing quickly gained popularity in Europe. Despite

this it was not until 1916 that the sport took root in America. Bouldering in the United

States surfaces through a discovery of avid hiker, Frank Mason. A magazine, Yankee

Rock and Ice, states “Frank Mason had been reading the 'Badminton Library of Sports

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and Pastimes', …in which a treatise on rock climbing attracted his attention. To give the

exotic sport a try.… [by 1916] Mason had established a small group of friends who

joined him regularly on Boston's suburban rockpiles” (Gill). While his climbing may not

have mirrored the extremity of the today’s rock climbing, Mason’s contribution to the

sport is inarguably significant. Mason’s “small group of friends” inherently built the

foundation for modern rock climbing. With the development of equipment for aid

climbing in the 1920’s, the possibility for greater heights became actualized. Resultantly

people began to flood the industry, and the idea of sport climbing became fully accepted.

As time has passed and technique been perfected, rock climbing gradually has evolved

into what it is today.

The art of sport climbing, though diverse in many aspects, encompasses a

unique terminology. According to dictionary.com, rock climbing can be defined as,

“the sport of climbing sheer rocky surfaces on the sides of mountains, often with the aid

of special equipment” (dictionary.com) Despite the fact that conceptually climbing is

self-explanatory, the denotation of “rock climbing” has been used to oversimplify a sport,

which in reality has grown to encompass an extremely distinct range of activities. These

differences range from location, form, equipment, and even to the rock itself. For

instance, the technique of ice climbing, or scaling frozen waterfalls, contrasts greatly to

the methodology required in bouldering, a practice of climbing lesser heights without a

harness (Rock Climbing Technique). However, a general knowledge of basic vocabulary

is necessary for a climber in any arena. When a person is climbing great heights, he must

wear a harness in order to catch the climber if he were to lose his grip. A belay is a device

through which a rope passes between the climber’s harness and the harness of the person

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who is on the ground. This apparatus increases the friction of the passing rope, and, as a

result, increases the security of the climber. To join the rope to both the climber and the

one who is spotting, a carabiner acts as a connector and will lock in place (Rock

Climbing Terminology). Ensuring that every component of this mechanism has been

correctly assembled is crucial to the climber’s safety. While these terms are universal in

the rock-climbing world, others exist in each specialization of the pastime.

Rock climbing has variety of very different modes, working to add depth and

individuality to the sport. According to rcokclimbing.com, “Climbing styles come in

many flavors.” On the most basic level, sport climbing can be divided into five basic

forms. The first among these is bouldering. Bouldering involves short height climbing

without any form of belay or harness. Though this method is not practiced at locations

where a fall would be particularly dangerous, climbers bring a cushioned bouldering pad

to protect against such instances. Typically, a bouldering route is comprised of five to ten

difficult moves, which tend to focus on technique and form. Bouldering, though most

often outdoors, can also be done at indoor gyms (Climbing Technique). Indoor climbing

became popularized in the late eighties, and it continues to be widely practiced today.

Indoor gyms consist of artificial rock walls with various designed routes that work to

improve skill in a safe environment. Free climbing, contrary to the security offered

indoors, is defined as, “a type of rock climbing in which the climber uses only hands, feet

and other parts of the body to ascend, employing ropes and forms of climbing protection

to prevent falls only” (Qlimbing Quotes). While safety precautions have been placed, this

form relies highly on the individual skill of the climber. The route for free climbing is

equipped with posts pre-drilled into the rock and carabineers. The next form of climbing

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is known as Trad Climbing. Trad climbing allows only methods that will not be

damaging to the rock, thus using devices that are made to fit into existing crevices or

holes. As the personal risk is much higher in this Trad climbing, it is reserved for only

advanced climbers. Very similar to Trad climbing, is Aid climbing. In Aid climbing most

techniques remain the same, however, climbers will stay on the rock for a multiple day

climb. Rockclimbing.com names solo climbing, “[the] most dangerous game and reserved

for the truly skilled only.” In solo climbing, the climber uses nothing other than himself

to achieve his feat. Because no real safety measures are taken, falling would be

detrimental (Physiology of Climbing). These contrasting methods of climbing mirror the

diversity of individual style and technique.

The type of hold used greatly alters the intensity of the route. While there are

handholds and footholds, these can be further specified based on form. Probably the

most easily accessible hold is denoted as a jug. A jug, by definition, is “a large hold.”

Best for beginners, this hold is a type of incut hold in which the incut is extremely deep

and simple to grip. Contrasting to jugs, Slopers, are very difficult to grasp. Being

relatively smooth, these holds offer no incut and little overall support. In order to

optimize the use of slopers, while pushing against the rock with an open hand, the

climber leans his body away from the hold. Similar in difficulty are pockets. Pockets are

“holds that have a small opening, only allowing the climber to hold them with one to

three finger.” Though the incut presents what appears to be a safe hold, its size prevents

much weight from being supported. In addition, many climbers find that pockets cause

severe strain on hand and arm tendons. Pinches and crimps are considered the most

difficult holds on a route. Pinches require the entire hand to pinch onto the hold’s two

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opposite sides, while a crimp is merely more than a slight edge on the rock

formation(Rock Climbing Terminology). The development of varying holds has become

central in the fluidity and overall movement of the climber.

The diverse maneuvers of sport climbing can typically be cast into one of two

categories: static and dynamic movements. A static movement is one in which the body

never completely loses contact with the wall. The fluidity of the move is “controlled by

muscle movement, rather than by momentum” (Allred). The climber will remain close to

the wall and draw strength in order to change both hand and foot holds. An experienced

climber knows that to achieve a successful static move, he must first plant his extremities,

and then shift his weight, ensuring that each action is deliberate and planned. This gives

the climber both greater control and balance. Dynamic movements, on the hand, allow

the climber to reach holds that cannot be obtained through direct static movement. In

such instances, “the hold is grabbed at the apex of upward motion.” In essence, a

dynamic move simply means jumping from one hold to another. This movement

minimizes muscle strain while significantly increasing the climber’s overall reach

(Ashcroft). Though static and dynamic movements will greatly contrast one another in

purpose and technique, becoming practiced in both is vital to build a competent climber.

Rock climbing offers the opportunity for a person to test, not only his physical

aptitude, but also his balance between mind and body. Requiring more than just brute

strength, climbers must be equipped with an innate focus and mental capacity to embody

a controlled form. Rationalized thought and educated technique offer the greatest safety

precautions to a climber. With care excised, the thrill of rock climbing surpasses the

gravity of the inevitable danger.

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