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Saw Stop It works Side View Boom view Top View This saw stop is simple and can be modified many ways. By using a digital caliper between the guides, accurate results can be obtained and calibraon is simple. I usually cut, modify, nail, mark, and glue things to my stop. Aſter a while I will make another. I do have a fancy one that is made from alumi- num But this one is just as accurate and I can modify it at will. I hope you find this of value. Jerry B. This is the fancy Saw Stop. We are not going to make this one. Page 1

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Saw Stop It works

Side View

Bottom view

Top View

This saw stop is simple and can be modified

many ways. By using a digital caliper between

the guides, accurate results can be obtained

and calibration is simple.

I usually cut, modify, nail, mark, and glue

things to my stop. After a while I will make

another.

I do have a fancy one that is made from alumi-

num But this one is just as accurate and I can

modify it at will.

I hope you find this of value.

Jerry B.

This is the fancy Saw Stop. We are

not going to make this one.

Page 1

Saw Stop

Measurement guides

Track runner

Base

Top slide

Tack on face block

Permanent Face block

Locking knob

Knob & 1/4” bolt

Fixed guide

Slotted guide with #8 x 3/4” pan head screws

#4 flat head x 1/2“ Track runner adjustment screw

Face block hot melt glued to stop

Slotted guide with #8 x 3/4” pan head screws

Track runner

Page 2

Saw Stop

Top slide

The top slide is a 3/4” MDF x 2” x 12” strip.

To keep from setting up a router, I simply drilled

4 holes and band-sawed between them for the

slots. Of course you can use a router, make the

slots 1/4” wide.

Drill 1/4” initial holes here

1” 4” 4” 1”

2” x 1-1/2” x 3/8” Maple end block

3/4” x 3/4” x 2” MDF

The temporary face block can be

any convenient size. This one is

so I can cut tall segments. It is hot

melt glued all around. Having a

temporary face block comes in

handy.

1/4” x 1-3/4” carriage bolt

counter-sunk in base

The Base is a 3/4” MDF x 2” x 8” strip.

The fixed guide is glued in place.

The 1/4” x 1-3/4” carriage bolt is counter-sunk

in the base.

A simple track runner should be snug in the

table saw slot.

A 1/4” dowel sticking up 5/8”

1/2” 5”

1”

Page 3

Saw Stop Calibration

First, cut a block at some convenient length.

Loosen the guide screws and place the block between the guides.

Tighten the guide screws with the block snug between the guides.

The saw stop is now calibrated.

When the guides touch, the stop is at zero relative to

the blade.

Setting the stop is simply a matter of dialing in the horizontal seg-

ment dimension you need in a digital caliper, and adjusting the

stop as shown.

Page 4