scale auto 10 - 2013

Indianapolis Motor Speedway , Ofcially Licensed Product. GENERAL MOTORS Trademarks used under license to Round 2, LLC. AMT and design is a registered trademark of Round 2, LLC. GENERAL MOTORS Trademarks used

under license to Round 2, LLC. AMT and design is a registered trademark of Round 2, LLC. 2013 Round 2, LLC, South Bend, IN 46628 USA. Product and packaging designed in the USA. Made in China. All rights reserved.

AMTs Showroom Replicas are accurately scaled curbside style 1:25 scale plastic model kits with a conceptual connection to AMTs popular 1960s Craftsman

series. These fast, easy and fun to assemble models feature motor and suspension detail engraved into the chassis pan. The lower overall parts count, in comparison to

regular AMT kits requiring paint and glue, allows beginners and seasoned modelers alike to assemble an attractive model in a shorter time. The superior parts t of modern tooling,

combined with logical assembly, greatly enhances the building experience and helps to ensure a successfully completed project. With features like fully detailed, multi-piece interiors

and decal sheets sporting gauges, badges, stripes and more, AMTs Showroom Replicas are all about fun and satisfaction in the modeling hobby.

On the shelf now at your favorite hobby or variety store! Visit round2models.com for more information, updates and current releases!

4073 Meghan Beeler Ct

South Bend, IN 46628

574.243.3000

38

October 2013 Vol. 35 No. 3

INSIDEWebsite Access Code: SCA1310Enter this code at: www.ScaleAutoMag10om/CODEto gain access to web-exclusive content

Scale Auto (ISSN: 0195-217X, USPS:493-550) is published bimonthly by

Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI

53187-1612. Periodicals postage paid at Waukesha, Wis,. and additional offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Scale Auto, Kalmbach Publishing

Co,. 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Canada

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38

FEATURES 16 COVER STORY Kitbash a 1962 Corvette

Gasser by Tim Boyd Combine three kits to make this drag racer

22 Top 10 Gasser kits of all time by Tim Boyd

Which Gasser kits made the grade? Which

fell short? Heres a look

28 How to use Alclad candy paint by Mark Batson

New line of candy colors lays down well

with good preparation

32 Building a large-scale Enzo by Mark Melchiori Tamiyas 1/12 scale Ferrari Enzo has

unique challenges

38 Weathering made easy by Clay Kemp Make rusted bodywork using armor-

modeling techniques

DEPARTMENTS

4 Starting Line

6 Questions & Comments

8 New Products

10 Tips & Tech

12 Bench Racer

14 Truck Stop

30 One Great Model

44 Classic Kits

46 Kit Reviews

55 Advertisers Index

57 Classifieds/Events

58 Finish Line

32

16

REVIEWS in this issue

Tommy Grove Mustang

Yamaha YZR500

53-foot trailer

1953 Corvette roadster

McLaren MP4/12C GT3

1941 Willys street rod

PLUS 2 MORE!

46

47

8 TOP

KITS! p. 46

4 Scale Auto OCTOBER 2013

STARTINGLINE by JIM HAUGHT

Mark Savage is the new Associate Publisher of Scale Auto, replacing Terry Thompson, who left

Kalmbach Publishing for a position with model railroad manufacturer Wm. K. Walthers, Inc.

If the name seems familiar, it should: Mark was the editor of American Snowmobiler magazine for several years, and before that he edited Kalmbachs hobby business magazine, Model Retailer.

Mark also writes diecast car reviews for Model Retailer and ScaleAutoMag.com, with the nickname of The Duke of Diecast, which I kiddingly gave him several years ago.

Our readers are going to love Mark, because he is a car guy through and through. His office is filled with all sorts of car models; his bulletin board has some of our One Great Model spreads on it; and his computer wallpaper features open-wheel race cars.

Mark is a native Hoosier, and as you might expect, grew up loving all forms of auto racing. He still regularly attends the Indianapolis 500, and is knowledgeable about dirt-track racing, sprint cars, and Formula I, as well as NASCAR.

But wait! Theres more!Since 1989, Mark has written Savage

on Wheels, a car review column, for the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel. Theres even a Web site for his work at savageonwheels.com.

Its a sweetheart deal: Mark gets all manner of new cars delivered to him for test drives and review. Often the cars are a bit outside the budget of most of us,

so its easy to tell which new ride is his when it rolls into the parking lot!

Then theres all sorts of subterfuge and bribery to see who can be lucky enough to ride along to lunch or some other essential errand.

Clearly, this is a car guys car guy, and Im glad my new boss is someone who not only loves cars, but who also loves car models and understands and appreciates the passion modelers feel about their hobby.

Mark also understands what our readers want, so dont worry we wont suddenly undergo a drastic change in content or format. Youll continue to see plenty of muscle cars, drag cars, how-to stories,

and great columns. And all have one purpose: to help you enjoy this great hobby more each day.

Welcome aboard, Mark!

comING up In the December issue well have another in our Building the Legends series: Parnelli Jones #15 1970 Bud Moore Mustang. Dave Thibodeau has an excellent buildup feature on this SCCA championship-winning car.

We havent heard from Canadas Rod Maskiw for a while, so its nice to have his story about detailing and upgrading a 1959 Chevy Impala. He shows several ways to help improve an old kit, along with adding functionality such as opening doors.

Tim Boyd has an expanded review of and building tips for the Young American dragster kit, too.

Those are just a few of the stories well feature next time. See you then!

Clearly, this is a car

guys car guy.

Editor Jim HaughtArt Director Carole Ross

Editorial Associate Monica FreitagEditorial Assistant Jenny Maaske

Illustrator/Graphic Designer Jay SmithAssociate Publisher Mark Savage

Editorial Offices 262-796-8776Fax 262-796-1383E-mail [email protected]

ADVERTISING

Ad Sales Representative Jim Hagerty Ad Sales Manager Rick AlbersAd Services Representatives Nanette Hackbarth Melissa ValuchAdvertising Department 888-558-1544(Weekdays 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. CT)Sales/Marketing fax 262-796-0126Advertising E-mail [email protected]

TRADE SALES

Selling Scale Auto magazine or products in your store: Phone 800-558-1544 press 3Outside U.S. and Canada 262-796-8776 ext. 818Fax 262-798-6592Email [email protected] site www.Retailers.Kalmbach.com

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Change of address, delivery problems, new subscriptions, renewals, product orders, or customer inquiries Weekdays 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. CT 800-533-6644 Outside the U.S. and Canada 262-796-8776, ext. 421Customer Service Fax 262-796-1615Customer Service E-mail [email protected] include your name, mailing address, and telephone number with any correspondence

CIRCULATION

Circulation Coordinator Carly WitkowskiGroup Circulation Manager Kristin JohnsonSingle Copy Sales Director Jerry Burstein

PRODUCTION

Production Manager Helene TsigistrasProduction Coordinator Cindy Barder

KALMBACH PUBLISHING CO.

President Charles R. CroftVice President, Editorial Kevin P. KeefeVice President, Advertising Scott StollbergVice President, Marketing Daniel R. LanceCorporate Art Director Maureen M. SchimmelManaging Art Director Michael SolidayCorporate Circulation Director Michael Barbee

Scale Auto (ISSN: 0195-217X) is published bimonthly by Kalmbach

Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. box 1612, Waukesha, WI

53187-1612. 2012 Kalmbach Publishing Co. All rights reserved.

SUbSCRIPTION RATE: United States 1 year (6 issues) $27.95, 2

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POSTMASTER: (USPS: 493-550) Send address changes to Scale

Auto, Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. box 1612,

Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Periodicals postage paid at Waukesha, Wis.,

and additional offices.

Scale Auto assumes that letters, new product information, and

other unsolicited materials are contributed gratis. Feature articles

are paid for on acceptance. Photographs and other editorial material

accepted separately are paid for on publication, at which time Scale

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rial, if not accepted, will be returned if adequate postage and wrap-

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Printed in U.S.A.

Jim HaughtEditor

A new car guy takes the wheel

OCTOBER 2013 www.ScaleAutoMag.com 5

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>> Browse more than 300 kit reviews

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>> Download desktop wallpaper

P17321 A3AS

AMT005 Drag Gasser Wheels & Tires

Chromed vintage front & rear Halibrand 5-hole racing wheels

2 Goodyear Blue Streak Dragway Special 9.00-15 slicks

with Goodyear letters and blue pinstripe

2 narrow front drag tires

AMT004 M&H Racemaster Dragster Slicks

8 tires depicting 10.50-15 M&H Racemaster

drag slicks

Precision factory pad-printing lettering

Made from soft PVC

The Kats at AMT continue their wildly successful line of parts packs with the

M&H Racemaster Dragster Slicks and Drag Gasser Wheels and Tires that look

fantastic in AMTs retro packaging!

On the shelf now at your favorite hobby or variety store! Visit round2models.com for more information, updates and current releases!

TAKE YOUR BUILD TO THE NEXT LEVEL!

ALSO AVAILABLE!

Top quality aluminum wheels

Aluminum spacers with

recessed screws

Precision-machined 29 tooth crown gear

All the parts described above are available together in a special

set. Use them to upgrade your original 1/25 Slot Stars kits or

use them to increase the performance and excitement of your

other 1/24 and 1/25 slot cars!

Available August 2013

1/25 Scale Performance Parks Pack

Goodyear (and wing foot design) and Eagle are trademarks of The Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company, Akron, Ohio USA used under license by Round 2, LLC. Ford Motor Company Trademarks and Trade Dress used under license to Round 2, LLC. www.FordMotorCompany.com. AMT and design is a registered trademark of Round 2, LLC. 2013 Round 2, LLC, South Bend, IN 46628 USA. All rights reserved.

4073 Meghan Beeler Ct

South Bend, IN 46628

574.243.3000


QueStionS&commentS

two viewsI just wanted to take a moment to

thank you for your magazine and for the opportunity to see what I would have never realized existed; a world of extremely talented, gifted, and meticulous craftsmen who have the ability to bring fantasy to real life.

I have been so overwhelmed with the content of your magazine that I just had to write.

As a car enthusiast for many years and many venues, I dont have to possess the ability and knowledge that your model builders have to appreciate what they can do with their minds and their hands.

As a recent retiree, I am going to enter into this hobby and try to maintain the mantra that I realize must exist from the numerous folks who donate their art work to your magazine: relax and remember it is supposed to be fun. That is, I will attempt to start building if I can only tear myself away from the fun supplied in the pages of this magazine and the constant flow beautiful models in your photo gallery.

I am only writing because more often than not good deeds, products, and efforts go unnoticed or unappreciated. It seems that criticism and complaining are paramount to praise and compliments. All of you, the magazine, staff, and model builders deserve a large applause, if only you have brought a smile to this readers face. Thank you.

Mark Averivia E-mail

Wish I could be as enthusiastic about the magazine as some of the reader comments in the August issue, but I cannot. I managed to get through this one in less than ten minutes. It seems every issue we grow further apart. Either the magazine has outgrown me, or vice versa. Let me explain.

Im a product of the 1960s. No, not the 1960s that come to mind for most people today, but the early 1960s.

Although I graduated college in the late 1960s and managed to survive the psychedelic and muscle car era, it was a period that held little interest for me.

My tastes have always run toward the Ralph Lauren ideal. Laurens clothing line and automobile collection reflect a classic style of timeless elegance that transcends short-lived trends and fads to stay fresh, generation after generation.

My passion is classic showroom stock automobiles. Scale Auto occasionally gives a passing nod to these, but concentrates too heavily on fads and trends such as custom and muscle cars.

To your credit, Scale Auto offers excellent modeling tips and building concepts. It provides avenues of discovering new products and models I would never have found on my own. However, having said this, the helpful information versus content seem not to balance each other in terms of value for someone of my interest.

Jim Dalevia E-mail

Funny carsI really enjoyed the articles in the June

2013 issue on nostalgic Funny Cars. The Funny Cars of the 1960s-1970s were awesome, and beautiful. Please tell the person who built the models of the Funny Cars in the pictures for the article they did a very excellent job of building and painting those models.

Thank you for a very good magazine.and letting me know that Im not the only one who still likes the old Funny Cars.

Joey Gravinsvia E-mail

Hes out of controlI hate your magazine.Ive got far too many started builds

cluttering up my work area, but having read through the June 2013 issue, I am now uncontrollably inspired to start at least four more.

Keep it up. Fred Maillardet

Mount MarthaAustralia

QUESTIONS?

Send your questions and comments to Scale auto, Ask Scale Auto

21027 Crossroads Circle, Box 1612 Waukesha WI 53187-1612

E-mail: [email protected]

All letters submitted will be considered for

publication unless otherwise specified. Were sorry, but personal replies are not possible.


newproductS

1/24 Scale

IVeco Stralis Active Space cube, No. 3869, $99. Decals for two versions. From Italeri, available from Model Rectifier Corporation.

BMw Z4 Gt3, No. 125565, $54.95. From Fujimi, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

the road warrior - MadMax 2, No. 043660, $49.95. From Aoshima, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Miami Vice daytona Spyder, No. 85-4917, $24.95. From Revell.

datsun truck 720, No. 028438, $26.95. From Aoshima, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

nIssan Gt-r (r35) egoist, No. 003985, $47.95. From Aoshima, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

1/25 Scale

1955 Jukebox Ford Motor Sports, No. 85-4036, $24.95. From Revell.

1990 Mustang LX 5.0, No. 85-4252, $26.95. From Revell.

Jeep wrangler rubicon, No. 85-4053, $23.96. From Revell.

1965 chevelle SS 396 Z-16, No. 85-4055, $23.96. From Revell.

dodge Magnum Srt8, No. 85-4059, $23.96. Streetburner. From Revell.

1/12 Scale

cyclone, No. 141442, $79.95. From Fujimi, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.


Honda NS500 1984, No. 14125-3500, $71. Streetburner. From Tamiya America Inc.

Coyote V-twin custom, No. 005668, $37.95; Dead Ringer V-twin custom, No. 005675, $37.95; Sauber C30 Monaco GP, No. 091402, $74.95. From Aoshima, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Williams FW14B Monaco Grand Prix 1992, No. 090702, $79.95. From Fujimi, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

Tyrrell P34 1977 US GP #3, No. 090962, $79.95. From Fujimi, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.Ayrton Senna Kart 1981, No. 091372, $29.95. From Fujimi, available from Dragon Models USA Inc.

CarTech Auto Books & Manuals39966 Grand Ave.

North Branch MN 55056(651) 277-1200

www.cartechbooks.com

Dragon Models USA Inc.1315 John Reed Ct.

City of Industry CA 91745(626) 968-0322

www.dragonmodelsusa.com

Model Rectifier Corporation80 Newfield Avenue

Box 6312Edison NJ 08837(732) 225-2100

www.modelrectifier.com

Revell1850 Howard Street Unit AElk Grove Village IL 60007

(847) 758-3200www.revell.com

Tamiya America Inc.36 Discovery Ste. 200Irvine CA 92618-3765

(949) 362-2240www.tamiyausa.com

SOURCESBooks

Wildest Show Rods of the 1960s & 1970s, ISBN: 978-1-61325-036-5, $29.95. 160 pages, 300+ photos. From CarTech Auto Books and Manuals.

Woodward Avenue - Cruising the Legendary Strip, ISBN: 978-1-61325-091-4, $29.95. 160 pages, 243 color and black-and-white photos. From CarTech Auto Books and Manuals.

Now at ScaleAutoMag.com

NeWS FoRUMS VIDeoS DoWNloADSHoW To & MoDelS

Desktop Wallpaper

Download a desktop wallpaper of Carlos Sanchezs 1975 Plymouth Duster Funny Car at ScaleAutoMag.com/wallpaper, available September 3.

HoW-to articles

Learn how to section a model car; apply decals; improve your brush-painting; and much more. Go to ScaleAutoMag.com/howto.

tips & tecH arcHive

Build better models by learning useful tips and techniques from other builders. Search more than 450 tips in our Tips & Tech archive at ScaleAutoMag.com/tipsandtech.

e-mail neWsletter

Sign up for our free monthly newsletter, with announcements from the magazine and the world of car modeling.

Join scaleautomag.com

Become a registered member of ScaleAutoMag.com to get Online Extras, participate in our photo gallery and reader forums, and more. Visit ScaleAutoMag.com/register to get started!

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TIPS&TECH by KEN HAMILTON

W e have a run on great tips this time, which indicates to us that our readers are not only building

great models, theyre also willing to share their favorite techniques, which makes us all better modelers. And that gives all of us at the T&T Workshop a warm, fuzzy feeling that our favorite hobby is alive and well.

Thanks to all of you for your continued contributions to Tips & Tech. But before we focus on Tips, heres a great question that can help all of us:

Q: Ive seen several model vehicles that appear to be using real, superthin glass for the windows. It looks great. If it is real glass, where does it come from, and how do you make windows?

Keith Skinner

via E-mail

Ken: We dont know what vehicles youve seen, Keith but there is thin glass out there thats perfect for duplicating windows. In fact, model railroaders have been using it for years; yet another

reason to look at other scale modeling hobbies for inspiration and materials!

Were strong proponents of using building material thats close to what youre trying to replicate (wood for truck beds, metal where you can, etc.) and glass is no different. It just looks better than plastic or acetate, and it acts like real glass, because it is real glass.

So what is it, and where do you get it? These pieces of glass are actually

Microscope Slide Cover Slips used in laboratories. They are commonly available in squares measuring 22mm x 22mm (approximately .9 x .9 inches), and rectangular pieces measuring 22mm x 60 mm (.9 x 2.3 inches), which are better suited to our needs.

In official microscopic circles, standard thicknesses are referred to as #1 (.14mm), #1.5 (.175mm) and #2 (.21mm). We want to use the thinnest we can find.

The glass is available on Amazon.com and scientific supply sites such as Fisher Scientific and American Educational Products, but your best bet is to go straight to Clover House (www.

cloverhouse.com) and click on the Glass page. There youll find all you need, including reasonably priced glass and equally as important, a carbide-tipped glass scriber for cutting these paper-thin sheets of glass (an art in itself).

Good luck, Keith, and thanks for the great question. We think youll be pleased with the results.

Tip: After the frustration of never finding good-fitting latex gloves, or tearing them when putting them on, I started using latex finger cots when handling or brush-painting my models. They roll on and off easily, and you can put them just on the fingers that you usually use.

I found a box of almost 1,440 ($13 a box, with a minimum order of two boxes) at Uline.com, but you should be able to find them other places.

Theyre so much easier to put on and take off than a latex glove, and Im actually able to reuse them at times. They come in powder-free (cheaper) and powdered, as well as ESD (ElectroStatic Discharge) type. Mine have lasted for

Our Tip of the Month is from the

T&T Workshop Archives, and

gives a tip of the hat to all you

builders of early customs.

Fuzzy Dice hanging from the

rear view mirror are a staple

when it comes to building early

customs, but as we old guys can

remember, an equally popular

hanging decoration was baby

Shoes.

This unique touch can be

created by using the shoes of an

HO-scale model railroad figure.

by drilling out the inside of the

shoes, separating the shoes

from the base (if the figure you

pick has a base), and adding

some thin wire, you can

duplicate a popular custom

item from the past.

TIP OF THE MONTH: Baby shoes


years. No more fingerprints on a model, or the hassle of putting on gloves that rarely fit correctly, although I still use gloves for spray painting. Craig Bucklin via E-mail

Ken: Thats a great tip, Craig. Gloves also make your hands perspire, which can get uncomfortable after a while. Finger cots are the perfect solution!

Tip From The Workshop: Heres something we just came across that we think is way cool.

We all know about the wonderful variety of acrylic colors available in jars, but only airbrush-proficient modelers have been able to use them until now.

Liquitex, a name long familiar to professional artists for its line of fine artists-quality acrylic paints, has introduced a line of waterbased colors in spray cans!

The line consists of more than 100 colors, using highly pigmented, brilliant colors right from the can. They come in matte finishes only, but can be covered with just about any available gloss coat when they are dry.

Check out these new colors at www.liquitex.com, then go to Paints; Professional Colors; Spray Paint.

Odorless, waterbased paint in spray cans just think of the possibilities! While youre on the Liquitex site, check out the waterbased paint markers, too.

Tip: I simply could not get a certain decal to lay down on the curved surface of a model I was working on. I used MicroSol and blotted it as I normally do, and still wound up with wrinkles.

I thought I was going to have to remove the decals and get another set, when my buddy Travis Jeffrey suggested using a hair dryer to heat it up, then use a wet paper towel to smooth it out. By golly, it worked!

By the way, the wrinkled decal had been in place for around 40 hours. Travis tells me this would work better when the decal is first applied. Dont get the decal too hot just enough to soften it a bit.

Bill Bench/Travis Jeffreyvia Facebook

Ken: Thats a new one on us, Bill. It sounds like heating up the decal would be a good way to remove it altogether. Thanks for the Tip.

Tip: Ive been building models for more than 40 years, and recently went on a 1/8 scale buying spree. After opening my 1985 IROC Camaro, I noticed the hood

would not stay flush. The right front corner would be raised about 116 inch. Pushing down on it only raised the left rear.

After heating with hot water, careful bending, and ultimately cracking (and fixing) the hood, it still didnt lay flat. Then the it hit me to try tiny magnets.

I ended up cutting up an old phone case, trimming the magnets small enough to fit in the right front and left rear fender jambs, and the same spots under the hood. It was tedious work, but now the hood will stay flat! After assembly and paint, they wont be noticeable.

Im going to use this method with the detachable T-tops on the 1979 TA I also bought. I hope this can help someone else; it really saved the day for me.

Mike Barrosvia E-mail

Tip: Heres a technique Ive used since I started working with Bare-Metal foil.

When painting a model with a primer base coat and two or more coats of paint, small details such as moldings and trim tend to go away.

I use Bare-Metal foil to carefully mask the details I want to foil before the model is painted, then before the last coat of color is applied, I take off the masking. This saves the detail, and after I finally apply the foil, I dont have to worry about seeing any primer edges if I fall short trimming the foil.

Dean ChristensenContoocook,New Hampshire

Ken: Thats a great way to preserve fine detail, Dean. Thanks for sending it in.

The second half of Deans note contained a question:

Q: I am working on an Olds 442 collection (1966 through 1972) for a show in Massachusetts next year. The problem I have is with the 1968 conversion kit, which has a resin hood. I sprayed everything with automotive primer, but when I taped off the hood, the primer did not stick. Its fine on the body. Ive painted a lot of cars with O.E.M. paint, and this is the first time I have run into this. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Ken: Because youre working with resin, it sounds like the hood has a case of

Residual Mold Release. Its important to wash all model parts plastic or otherwise before painting, but its especially critical with aftermarket resin.

Mold-release agents used in the casting process can vary between manufacturers, and even batches, and paint just wont stick to greasy surfaces.

To fix this problem, soak the parts overnight in Westleys Bleche-Wite whitewall cleaner, then scrub them with a liquid dish detergent such as Dawn. You might also want to scuff the pieces with fine sandpaper, so the primer will have something to grip.

Tip: I use Humbrol brush-on paint to get a slightly weathered appearance when painting seat upholstery. I paint on a gloss coat; when thats dry, I apply a matte (not gloss) top coat of a slightly lighter or darker shade. When the top coat is dry, I rub back the top coat with a cotton swab, leaving the matte coat in the folds and creases. It works great! Phil James Victoria, Australia

Tip(s): I have found a few tips that, although not revolutionary, some readers may find helpful.

I have started using empty coffee cans to separate my spare/leftover parts. Because I am an airplane and car guy, this helps greatly if I am looking for a specific piece to replace or use for test- painting, as well as for rubber bands/clothespins, etc.

I also have started saving the small dosage cups from over-the-counter medicines, which I have found useful to keep small decals/parts out of harms way or from going missing. They make great mixing cups, too.

I also use the tops of various sports drinks, as well as cylindrical potato chip lids, to sample spray paint blending, These lids are also ideal for prewetting tiny decals, as they are deep enough to cover the decal without making you chase it down and around.

Thanks for your time, and keep up the great work!

Thomas VossEast Windsor, New Jersey

QUESTIONS FOR KEN?

Mail your building questions and modeling tips to

Scale auto, Tips & Tech 21027 Crossroads Circle, Box 1612

Waukesha WI 53187-1612


Subscribers can access the Tips & Tech archive at ScaleAutoMag.com

WANT MORE?


benchrAcer by ANDy KELLOCK

Building a 1950s

NASCAR convertible

Nascar ran a convertible division from 1956 -1959. I had some old Fred Cady decals for Curtis

Turners 1956 ride, and now that Round 2 has rereleased the AMT 1956 Ford Victoria, I can use these to make his car.

The same techniques applied here can be used for any car from 1956 -1959, including the 1957 Ford from Revell. There are plenty of model choices for NASCAR subjects in these years. Use your imagination and come up with a unique-looking model for your NASCAR collection.

bODY/InterIOr Start by removing the roof from the body. Cut the front of the roof just behind the windscreen header, leaving enough plastic to be shaped for the top of the windscreen. The rear pillars can be cut close to the body. Grind away the bottom molding of the rear window, as the rear deck is flat under the tonneau cover.

The AMT 1956 Ford has opening doors, but most of the pictures Ive seen

of the NASCAR convertibles show that the doors were bolted shut with plates, so I chose to glue the doors in place. The glued-on doors also strengthen the body during assembly.

1956 was the first year for convertible division racing, and most of the cars had a single roll hoop behind the drivers seat. In later years there was a second hoop under the windscreen, and by the end of the series in 1959 there was a full cage around the driver.

All of the pictures Ive seen of Curtis Turners 1956 convertible show a single hoop behind the front bench seat. Because of this simple arrangement and the fact that the rest of the interior is covered by the tonneau, I decided to complete assembly of the car first, and fit the roll bar and tonneau cover last.

pAInt Curtis Turners car was painted Colonial White and Mandarin Orange, and I used MCW lacquer for the finish over white primer. It also had a two-tone interior in these colors.

For a subtle color contrast, I used Tamiya Racing White for the interior white, then I used a semigloss clear to give the appearance of vinyl.

The dash seemed to be mostly stock, and the only modification was I taped over the drivers wheel with pinstriping tape to replicate the electrical tape used on the 1:1 cars.

wheelS/tIreS I used the steel wheels and stock tires that came in the kit. Pictures of the car show the wheels to be black, Mandarin Orange, or red. I chose red. Give the wheels a black wash to bring out the depth, and pick out the axle stub and lugnuts in a steel color.

DetAIlS After the car is painted, apply the Bare-Metal foil. The windscreen frame is fragile, so I installed the windscreen first for support before foiling the frame.

Now you can assemble the car as per the kit instructions.

Leave out the back seat. Dont worry about painting the rear half of the interior; it will be covered by the tonneau.

An easy roll hoop can be made using 10-gauge electrical wire with the insulation left on. Bend it into a C shape so that the vertical sides fit within the open body sides. Trim the length so that

By simply removing the roof and adding a roll bar and tonneau cover, you can convert any 1956-1959 car

into a replica of a racer from NASCARs convertible division.


the top of the hoop is just slightly higher than the top of the windscreen. You can paint the wire or wrap it with narrow strips of electrical tape to simulate the padding used on the 1:1 car.

tonneAu cover Some cars had the entire interior covered, with just a hole for the driver to sit in. Others had just the rear passenger area covered, as the pictures of Turners car show. Check references to see what sort of cover is appropriate.

Use a piece of card stock or heavy paper to make a template of the area to be covered. After you have the correct shape, you can transfer it to styrene sheet or use heavy paper for the cover. I glued black craft paper on top of the

card stock, and if you roll the edges over and leave a flap to tuck behind the front seat, it is strong and self-supporting.

engine It would be very close to a stock engine from this period, with the air cleaner installed.

finiShing up There are a few final details to make your car more like a racer from this period:

Replace the headlights with flat disks of plastic painted body color.

Dont install the taillight lenses, and paint the recesses flat aluminum.

Install some lap belts for the driver. You can use the set in the kit, or make some from the same black craft paper used for the tonneau.

Cut the roof behind the windscreen and at the base of the rear pillars. Leave enough plastic behind the windscreen to shape a smooth header. The rear pillars can be cut close to the body, and the rear window molding needs to be ground flat.

A simple roll bar can be made from 10-gauge electrical wire with the insulation left on. Make a template for the tonneau cover using card stock. Dimensions shown are 65mm long by 63mm wide. Leave a flap to tuck behind the front seat.

Presents the...

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truckStop by evan hermel

TRANSTAR 4300

DOINGS

Glamor with Guts. That was the theme of International Harvesters promotion of the F4200/4300

series of tractors when they were introduced in 1971.

The 4200 differed from the 4300 by having a shorter nose and appeared to have been marketed for more heavy-duty applications, such as dump or construction bodies. In contrast, the 4300 was marketed as a medium-to-high-end highway tractor.

Both trucks have been kitted by Ertl, and the 4300 has been rereleased several times, including the past two years. Features include posable steering, options for one or twin exhaust stacks, and gorgeous decals.

EnginE The kit comes with an International V-800. Information on

detailing this engine can be found in the last Truck Stop column. This engine was actually not that common, and every photo Ive seen of the 4300 shows them equipped with a Cummins NTC350/855, or a Detroit Diesel 8v72.

chASSiS The posable steering went together well, but I was disappointed with Ertl for not including the steering shaft. This should connect the steering box and the oval inset in the firewall. You can correct this omission with some .060" rod.

The most problematic part of the chassis was the rear suspension. The rear drive axle is too long, which will lead to the rear axles being cockeyed instead of nicely parallel to the ground. The overlong driveshaft, in turn, affected the fit of the torsion bars, making them appear to be too short.

The round ends of the torsion bars are also too large for their appropriate receptacles on the axles. This will require a fix by replacing those receptacles with

some .020" x .080" strip. I love the detail on the fixed position

fifth wheel, but the mounting plate is grossly overwide. Its definitely meant for a wider chassis. Theres no good fix for this, other than using a mounting plate and fifth wheel from any AMT truck kit.

The biggest problem in the kit is that the front wheels do not center in the wheel wells. Apparently this is a holdover from using the same chassis with hoods of different lengths. I remedied this by moving the hood mounting pins and radiator back by approximately 5mm.

Unfortunately, another problem surfaced by this repair: the hood does not clear the front bumper upon swinging forward. I only discovered this late in the building process, and in hindsight, Id lower the bumper by about 2mm.

cAb Ertls truck kits were revolutionary in their day by having separate interior

The AMT Transtar 4300 lends itself to multiple interpretations

of highway tractors.


cab wall pieces, and for the elimination of the greenhouse such as is found in the AMT Autocar kit and its siblings. However, there some pitfalls in assembling the cab.

I found it extremely difficult to push the sidewalls into place. It may be easier to glue the sidewalls to the rear cab wall, and slide the entire unit into place.

The windshield fit was also poor. If youre like me and like to show off a well-detailed cab interior (I have a belief that models can be rolling dioramas), you probably like to open up, or leave off, the side windows. If you do so with the Transtar, youll need to paint interior surrounds of the side windows black, because the spaces between the doors and sidewalls will be visible.

Those two square projections on the dash where speedometer and tachometer gauges should be are tachygraphs, which were meant to record speed and RPM.

Not all trucks had these, so I drilled them out, replaced them with a square of styrene, and added some gauge decals.

Oddly, the heater (normally mounted under the passengers seat) is missing in the Transtar kit, but I believe that Ertl corrected this in the Paystar 5000 kit. You can craft one from a roof-mount air-conditioner unit from the AMT White-Freightliner kit.

The captains seats are open in the back and will require filling in or covering the opening if you decide to leave off the sleeper box.

The Model The model you see here was inspired by two things: I had a set of IMF decals from the recent AMT Kenworth K123 kit (IMF never used Kenworths, by the way); and in researching IMF trucks, I found a single photo on the internet of a retired Interstate Motor Freight 4300 short wheelbase tractor.

I shortened the chassis by about two scale feet, and shorted the drivers-side fuel tank. The front bumper was likewise trimmed to mimic the real thing.

The kits Alcoa wheels were replaced by some resin 5-spoke units from American Industrial Truck Models, and an airfoil was modified from an AMT Mack R kit. Cab marker lights came from the Ford LN kit.

I replicated the heat-retainer using a piece of card stock (the real things are often simply pieces of cardboard boxes).

More photos of the model can be

seen at http://public.fotki.com/amcan/transtar-4300/.

NeW ANd INTeReSTING STUFF P&P Resin Works, a new find for me, has sent us a 1980-94 Ford F600/700 cab conversion, and its a beauty!

The parts are cast in a smooth, light tan resin, with no pinholes. Pieces include one-piece cab + hood, separate grille, interior bucket, dash, bench seat, front bumper, and steering wheel.

Suggested donor kits would be the AMT ALF 1000 series pumper or the LN9000.

If youre daring, cut open the hood and use the engine from the AMT 1994 Ford pickup for the 370/427 engines these trucks used. I think the fire-apparatus guys will really love this, and I rate the casting as excellent. Cost is $50 + postage.

Modeltruckin.com has more than 60 freight line decals for tractors, as well as cab stripes for specific marques of trucks. Newest in its line is a set of Great Dane and Thermo King logos for the new Moebius 53-foot reefer trailer.

Im especially impressed by the silver color used. Registration is crisp, and the colors are sharp especially the silver tones. Optional mud flap decals are included. Enough logos are given for four separate trailers.

A sheet is only $10. Another cool selection is Detail Sheet

#3, which has fuel tax decals, license plates, and other decals. I counted plate pairs for at least 11 different tractors. Cost is $8.

QUESTIONS FOR EVAN?

Send your truck modeling questions to Scale auto, Truck Stop

21027 Crossroads Circle, Box 1612 Waukesha, WI 53187-1612


The slightly off-kilter exhaust pipe on the stack was deliberate. This represents a truck at the end of its service life that has been put out to pasture.

Note the rack supporting the airfoil. These are accurate representations of the real things; very different from what AMT included in its truck kits. The pogo stick is a piece of square styrene rod.

Modeltruckin.com 16078 lizana School Rd.

Gulfport MS 39503modeltruckin.com/store/

P&P Resin Works c/o eric Jones 319 howell Rd.

Mocksville NC 27028 (336) 998-9592

ppvintagekits.com/index.html

[email protected]

SOURCES


How to combine parts from three kits to build this drag racer by TIM BOYD

I call it Conceptual Kitbashing: clever forethought in the kits that you employ for your kitbashing

project, chosen to deliver maximum visual impact with the minimal amount of modifications during the build phase.

I was looking for a 1960s-style AAM/SP drag racing chassis and engine to create a Gasser-style kitbash build from Revells new 1962 Corvette kit.

I was able to locate two 1960s kits that had the right speed equipment, but were also designed in such a way as to expedite the kitbashing project. Even better, both kits have just been reissued!

The first kit is Revells evergreen Miss Deal 1953 Studebaker Funny Car. In reality, there were no Studebaker Funny Cars back then, but there were a few Gassers, and thats what this kit replicates.

The key enabler here is that the frame in this kit was converted from the original Revell Parts Pack Custom Car frame which was a frame designed to fit all first-generation (C1) bodies.

The second key enabler is that I chose the competition engine parts, wheels, and decals from the old AMT Sock it to Me 1962 Corvette kit. This kit suffers in terms of body and chassis accuracy (in part because of its promo/annual kit roots), but the speed equipment and psychedelic-era decals are sized to fit this project almost perfectly.

Combining these three kits led to a rapid build it took me just a couple of months, instead of a couple of years with a minimum of fiddling and adapting parts for fit.

If you can follow a similar approach on your next project, you too will become a fan of Conceptual Kitbashing.

Here are the kits well use for almost all the parts of our 1962 Corvette Gasser project. The Revell Miss Deal and AMT Sock it to Me kits will have been reissued by the time you read this; the Revell 1962 Corvette an all-new tool was issued in late 2012.

Kitbash a 1962Corvette Gasser

Heres the key to this a relatively easy kitbashing project: the Gasser-style Revell Miss Deal frame (left) was converted from Revells earlier Parts Pack C1123 Custom Car Frame (center). It was patterned after a C1 Corvette chassis, which is confirmed when you compare it to the stock Revell 1962 Corvette frame (right) all key dimensions match.

The firewall from the Revell Corvette kit is glued to the Miss Deal floorboard. It fits ahead of the tabs molded in the floorboard that locate the Miss Deal roll bar assembly. I now recommend that you glue the floorboard 116 inch forward of the tabs, rather than directly against them as shown. This will aid positioning the tires in the center of the wheel wells during final assembly.

The only major modification youll need to make to the Miss Deal chassis is to return the front crossmember which was relocated forward for the Miss Deal kit to its stock C1 Corvette location. Mark the centerline of the crossmember, then measure and mark a second line 14 inch rearward. Cut out the crossmember and reglue it in the new location.

Ive completed relocation of the front chassis crossmember. The masking tape pulls the frame rails slightly inboard to grip the crossmember while the glue dries. Ive marked the Miss Deal floorboard in front of the new firewall, to be cut away later.

I fabricated an additional crossmember from Evergreen square tubing. The underside of the crossmember is notched to fit the tab on the Revell 1962 Corvette four-speed transmission.

The front and rear suspensions from the Revell Miss Deal kit are used as they come from the box. The tooling is worn, and youll need to clean up all these parts. If your project is a contest build, remove the parting lines and plating from the front suspension, and paint it with Alclad II Chrome or send it out to a plating service.

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If you use the blown Corvette engine parts as I did, youll need to file the front crossmember to create clearance for the blower drive pulley. Of course, this is more easily done before you reach the stage of completion shown here!

Some of my favorite parts of the original AMT Sock it to Me 1962 Corvette kit are the shallowndeep Halibrand mag wheels. Ive paired them with the new tampo-lettered drag slicks found in several new AMT kits (such as the 1976 AMC Gremlin).

I used the Revell 1962 Corvette 327 short-block as the basis of the engine, with most of the remaining engine parts coming from the Sock it to Me kit. I forgot to include the clutch scattershield, which was NHRA-mandated for manual transmissions. You could adapt the Revell Miss Deal part (shown here in blue); check to see if you need additional transmission tunnel and/or crossmember clearance.

The Sock it to Me kit includes single- and dual-blower drive engine supercharger options. Only the single blower was NHRA-legal, so my car, which uses the dual-blower option, would have had to run as an NHRA exhibition class entry, or exclusively at AHRA tracks. I retained the Revell 1962 Corvette engine front cover, with engine mounts.

AMT kits from this era did not always fit together well, and adapting these parts to the Revell engine block can be tricky. To get the blower drive pulley to line up with the engine crankshaft, I reduced the height of the blower manifold by sectioning out the material shown on the left and regluing the remaining parts as shown on the right.

The completed engine assembly includes spark plug wires and extensive paint detailing (mostly Testors Metalizers and DullCote). Those trick Hilborn four-port scoops are from Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland (#P-46); I later removed the mounting flanges below the scoops that are seen here, so that the blower assembly would clear the hood opening.

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This almost never happens when kitbashing: the engine mounts for the kitbashed AMT/Revell Corvette engine lined up perfectly with the engine mount tabs on the Revell Miss Deal frame. Once again, the Miss Deal frames origins as a C1 Corvette frame served to simplify the project!

To fit the reconfigured driveline, the Revell Miss Deal driveshaft (top) was both shortened, and the universal joints were cut apart and repositioned (bottom) to represent the proper driveshaft phasing.

When I repositioned the front crossmember, I cut away the molded-in Moon fuel tank mounts. Here I redeploy them by gluing them to some mounting tabs made from sheet styrene.

I located the Revell Corvette steering box and column to the Miss Deal frame, then glued the Miss Deal Pittman arm (shown here in silver) in place. The steering drag link came from my parts box.

Body modifications are relatively minor. I mocked up the Revell 1962 Corvette body on the completed chassis/powertrain assembly, and marked where to cut a hole in the hood for blower assembly clearance. After cutting the holes, use various files to finalize the fit.

It was popular back in the 1960s to add a third taillight to each side of a C1 or C2 Corvette. I measured for the third lights, drilled holes, then used the file shown to make the holes match the size and angle of the two outboard lights on each side of the body.

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A subsequent issue of the Revell 1962 Corvette will include the stock hardtop, but until that kit arrives, youll need to use the hardtop from Revells 1959 Corvette kit of a few years ago, or adapt the hardtop from the Sock it to Me kit. I did the latter, by filing notches on the underside of the hardtop casting. They are positioned to clear the Revell windshield frame mounting tabs and the decklid ridge.

I used black embossing powder to create carpet on the Revell Miss Deal floorboard. Masking tape was applied to create a border for the carpeting effect. I filled the notch in the floorboard for the Revell Miss Deal steering linkage; it was not needed with our steering configuration.

Those late-1960s psychedelic-style graphics were part of the original AMT Sock it to Me kit that I used for this build. Like most AMT decal sheets from this era, they aged poorly and required a great deal of effort to restore and apply to this body. Fortunately, Round 2s reissue will include a reproduction of the original decals, manufactured with todays standards for accuracy and ease of application.

The completed engine compartment contains no plated parts; natural metal finishes are far more realistic. The Hilborn blower scoops have had the mounting flanges removed so that they sit flush on top of the blowers.

The finished interior greatly benefits from the added detail found in the new Revell 1962 Corvette kit. The roll bar height had to be reduced slightly to clear the mold thickness of the AMT 1962 Corvette hardtop/glass assembly.

In the AM/ and AAM/SP drag racing classes, Corvettes were allowed to run without the hardtop, and even without the windshield/frame. Shown here without the hood and hardtop, the car already takes on a more-purposeful pose; a cut-down racing-style windscreen should be in the reissued Sock it to Me kit, should you want to go that route.

FiniShed model

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Although you could use the stock seats from the Revell 1962 Corvette kit, I wanted something more race-inspired. I settled on the bucket seats from the AMT Ohio George 1933 Willys kit. The roll bar is fashioned from Evergreen styrene rod; the steering wheel and shifter comes from the Miss Deal kit.

The last building step is to fashion a more-appropriate grille treatment. Using a motor tool with a speed control, carefully grind away material from behind until the molded-in eggcrate grille texture is removed. This leaves an open grille cavity that visually frames the Moon fuel tank in the engine compartment.

The opened grille frame pays off in this front view. Some racers even removed the center horizontal bar, leaving just the chromed grille border in place. The properly-sized headlamps seen here are among the key improvements of the Revell 1962 Corvette body vs. the previous AMT body.

The third taillamps on each side, the parachute (from the AMT Corvette kit), and the purposeful rear axle/differential from the Revell Miss Deal are key visual elements. Note the new tampo-printed Round 2/AMT drag slicks.

A peek underneath shows just how well the Revell Miss Deal chassis fits the Revell 1962 Corvette body. Aside from relocating the front crossmember, no further fitting of the chassis or frame was required.

The raised ride height reflects the drag racing chassis technology of the mid-1960s. Those burly traction bars and the blower scoops that just clear the hood send a clear message about the purpose of this machine!


TOP 10Which Gasser kits made the grade? Which fell short? Heres a look by TIM BOYD

Its a pretty safe bet that Revells 1951 Anglia and AMTs 1933 Willys kits would make most lists of the all-time Top Ten Gasser model car kits.

If you look at magazines, attend drag-racing events, or go to car shows, the news is the same these days: One of the hottest automotive themes is to recreate or restore the

Drag Racing Gasser look of the 1960s. With that in mind, I thought it might be interesting to take

a look at the best 1/24 and 1/25 scale model car kits to consult when you are building Gasser models.

For this article, we are going to adopt the contemporary understanding of the term Gasser, which is broader than the NHRA rules-specific 1960s definition. Further, were most interested in the variety, amount, and style of the Gasser parts in each of these kits, rather than their overall competency.

For example, even though it does not meet the original Gasser definition, Ive included Revells Miss Deal kit among our Honorable Mention kits, because it is a virtual gold mine for builders to use when they are kitbashing dare to be different Gasser models.

Monograms Bad Man kit makes our list, even though overall the kit is seriously lacking in certain areas of authenticity. But it does a great job of capturing the Gasser spirit, and again is a great source of parts for Gasser kitbashing projects.

Any Top Ten list is going to be subjective. Recognizing this, Ive listed the aforementioned ten Honorable Mention kits, and included the five Most Disappointing Gasser kits.

Of course, if you see it differently, lets hear your view at ScaleAutoMag.com.

Ive listed each category based on the date each kit was introduced to the market. In most cases, the box art shown in the photographs is that of the original release; in a few cases, the box art is from more recent reproductions of the originals, or Ive shown several of the earliest kit releases.

Gasser kts of all time


Revell Stone Woods and Cook 1941 Willys Swindler II 1963Probably the first-ever true Gasser kit in 1/25 scale. Features a blown first-gen Olds V-8, opening doors and trunk, highly detailed interior, chassis with quarter elliptic rear springs, and decals replicating one of the prime combatants of the original drag strip Gasser Wars. Although similar in parts count to Revells other kits of this era, this one seemed to offer easier assembly and completion. Revells decision to make this an exact replica of the real SW&C Gasser, itself a famous race car of the era, was groundbreaking in many ways. Its seldom recognized as such, but this might be one of Revells best 1960s kits.

AMT Flip-Front 1940 Willys from the 1932 Ford Custom/1940 Willys Double Kit 1963The 1932 Ford Custom part of this AMT Trophy Series Double Kit is largely forgotten these days, but when the 1940 Willys part of this kit hit the hobby store shelves in late 1963, it was just too cool. The super-hot one-piece flip front end? Check. A blown Olds V-8 with all the right name gear? Check. Halibrand Quick Change Rear Differential? Check. A nicely turned-out tucknroll upholstered interior with roll bar, Moon gas pedal, ribbed instrument panel with eight gauge, and competition steering wheel? Check. Name-brand speed parts from Moon, Eelco, Spalding Flamethrower, Enderle, and Halibrand? WIN! Back then, and now. AMT offered this same basic kit later with a Willys pickup body.

AMT 1955 Chevy Nomad Trophy Series 3 in 1 Wompin Wagon 1965 Another period-correct kit in the AMT Trophy Series, this release showcased the latest, front up gasser stance via an optional beam front axle, combined with its own frame crossmember, transverse leaf spring, and matching front/rear chromed radius rods/traction bars. The Gasser engine accessories included a high-rise Hilborn fuel-injection setup and weedburner headers. The decals were inspired by the 1:1 Wompin Wagon, although the box art illustrated the car in a different color. The finishing touch? A drivers drag-racing helmet. Perfect!

Revell 1951 Anglia Skippers Critter 1966 Also among Revells best kits of the decade, this one appeared shortly after the diminutive English Ford import began its run as the car to run in the Gasser classes. Although it retained the complexities of other Revell kits of the era (opening doors, opening trunk, working steering), it was (again) easier to assemble than most Revell kits. Some elements (the engine block, the rear suspension design, and the bucket seats) were based on earlier Revell kits, but the remaining elements were period-correct. Ill never forget those side box illustrations in Candy Red with Blue plexi windows and a pearl white interior. Brilliant! Revell also offered this basic kit with a Thames panel delivery body.

AMT 1937 Chevy Coupe Trophy Series 3 in 1 1967 Few people think of 1937 Chevys when they think of Gassers. Truth be told, the 1937 Chevys that ran in the gas classes were more predominant in the late 1950s and early 1960s, but not so much in 1967 when this kit was released. Regardless, the Gasser version of the kit was an outstanding execution of the genre, and that goes well beyond the plated and highly arched parallel front leaf springs and shocks that yielded the nose-high Gasser look. For one, this was among the first model kits to include a blown version of Chevys still-new 427 Rat engine. Even better was the gorgeous tucknroll instrument panel pad, with a recessed-and-plated instrument cluster that was shared with the street rod version of the kit. Ive used those parts in many builds over the ensuing decades. The blanked, grilleless nose piece and period decals were the perfect finishing touch. AMT soon introduced a second version of this kit, with a 1937 Chevy Cabriolet body.

The Top 10


AMT Ohio George Montgomery 1933 Willys Trophy Series 1968 I can remember waiting months and months for this kit to appear after its announcement. When it finally hit the shelves, it was not a typical AMT Trophy Series 3 in 1, but a single building version representing a replica of what some consider the most dominant Gasser of the era. Two full trees of plated parts, chopped top, tilting one-piece front end it was all there. The 427 Cammer was the best kit replica yet of that engine, and was reused in a number of other AMT kits. Among the last of AMTs truly great Trophy Series kits, Round 2 has just restored the kit and reissued it with the original decals and parts. AMT later offered the same basic kit with a 1933 Willys Sedan Deliver Gasser body.

MPC 1967 & 1969 Ohio George Montgomery Mustangs 1968 & 1970The top Gasser classes underwent a revolution with the Ohio George Montgomery Mustang. The streamlined, low-slung car was an instant success, and MPC hit the scene with a highly accurate replica shortly thereafter. The unique frame and suspension reportedly adapted from Montgomerys earlier Willys race cars was rendered in full detail. Accurate graphics, a complex (for the time) roll-bar setup, and a flip front were all part of the kit. The SOHC 427 engine didnt live up to the rest of the kit, and the front end was notoriously inaccurate (retooled from MPCs 1966 Mustang). The 1967 kit tool was modified slightly for several street-machine-themed reissues, and was returned to original form for an additional release in late 2013. Around 1970, the basic chassis/suspension/interior was carried over for a second new kit, with a one-piece transparent clear body casting of the 1969 Mustang Ohio George Mr. Gasket Gasser car. Not available new since the early 1970s, this latter is a rare and pricey collectible. Its being investigated as a possible future reissue topic.

Monogram 1955 Chevy Bad Man 1969If sheer accuracy throughout was a requirement, this kit would not make the cut. But if your criteria includes capturing the zeitgeist (spirit of the moment) of the late 1960s, when Gassers were fading from the drag strips but increasingly showing up as street machines, this Tom Daniel-designed retool of Monograms original 1/24 scale 1955 Chevy kit clearly makes it. Even if you dont care for the body in this kit (and I dont), most of the revised parts the front suspension, ladder bars, interior components, and even some of the engine parts are perfect for kitbashing. Still readily available, still widely loved, and an excellent first kit build for a new or returning model builder.

MPC 1957 Chevy Gasser 1975 Sharing the same engine (a blown 454 Rat), chassis, suspension, and some interior details with a companion 1953 Ford F-100 kit, this kit captures the Street Gasser/Street Freak movement of the 1970s. The frame which allows building with two different wheelbases is a nearly perfect source for many 1940s-to-1960s body-on-frame Gasser and Street Freak kitbashing projects. This kit has been issued in several versions, each with unique detail changes. Its starting to get a little pricey in the old kit aftermarket; Round 2 reports that a reissue is possible, but not part of its near-term plans.

Revell 1941 Willys John Mazmanian, Stone Woods and Cook (Black Car), and K. S. Pittman 2001, 2006, 2012 Some sources claim that the backstory on these newly-tooled kits was that Revell was planning yet another reissue of its original 1941 Willys tool as a John Mazmanian licensed property, but determined that the old tool was essentially worn out. Whatever the explanation, Revells all-new kit was based on a recreation/restoration of one of the versions of the original 1960s Mazmanian Willys, and reflects some of the compromises/updates taken with the 1:1 car. Later reissued with alternative markings and again in Revells current offerings, this is among the most accurate of the Gasser kits listed here.

The Top Ten continued


With a kit genre as popular as Gassers, back in the day and again today, to list the Top Ten kits is barely scratching the surface. Here are ten kits that just missed the cut:

AMT 1957 Chevy Bel Air Trophy Series 3 in 1 original 1962 and subsequent issues Not a Gasser in the purest sense, but hundreds of thousands of these kits were built with the blown 409 Chevy engine option, the raised front suspension, and those (hard to find, first-issue only) four-window Halibrand rear mags.

Revell 1957 Chevy Bel Air original 1963 issue and 1970 revision Like AMTs kit, Revells original 1957 Chevy kit offered a very nicely done GMC-blown engine option, a raised front end, and some really compelling box art to prove the point. A major revision of the kit at the end of the decade entirely changed the engine parts (now derived from the prior Revell Parts Pack offering), while adding a simplified dual leaf spring/tubular front suspension setup.

The original kit was a bear to assemble, but the first-generation release (left) and the moderate retooling of the kit in 1970 (right) featured Gasser-themed box art and optional parts.

Revell 1955 Chevy original 1964 issue With an optional 409 Chevy engine that was configured as though it could have been part of Revells famous Parts Pack series, and many of the other components needed for a classic Tri-Five Gasser, this kit was destined for greatness from the moment it hit the shelves. Really, really fussy to build, just like Revells other original Tri-Five kits. Great box art to boot.

AMT 1966 Falcon Annual Kit 1965 As its Gasser-themed Trophy Series kits continued to sell well, AMT began to adapt the Gasser idiom to the competition versions of its 3 in 1 annual kits. Perhaps the most outlandish of those was the third-generation Falcon kit, with a truly nose-high stance. (It was billed on the box art as an A/FX option, but the lack of an altered wheelbase made it equally valid as a street Gasser). The interior incorporated an accurately-engraved floor pan/back panel if the rear seat was omitted for the Gasser version. Beyond the accurate Gasser-style tube front axle setup, the 289 V-8 was optioned with a supercharger topped by a wild quad-Weber carb setup and matching headers. The finishing touch? A custom-formed parachute fairing for the rear end. The Gasser (or A/FX) parts with slight modifications carried over to AMTs 1967-1969 Falcon annual kits. Perfect! Revell 1953 Studebaker Miss Deal 1967 Revell pitched this as a Funny Car kit, but had it been a 1:1 scale car, the body/frame configuration/suspension would have been pure Gasser-class material. The kit was comprised of a repurposed body from a stillborn Revell 1953 Studebaker kit tool, with most of the remaining parts sourced from Revells earlier Parts Pack series, including the early Chrysler Hemi engine, front and rear suspension components, bucket seats, wheels and tires, and so forth. The frame was originally sized to fit first-generation (C1) Corvette kits, and could still be used for that application. Its been reissued multiple times, and is once again in Revells catalog.

Honorable Mention


MPC 1968-1972 GTO and 1968/1969 Mustang GT Annual Kits (1967-1971) Featured prominently when these kits were new, many have escaped some of us today that these MPC annual kits also came with optional parts that enabled a nose-higher Gasser stance. The components, including plated four-bar radius rods, coil-over spring shock absorbers, and a tube axle were similar to the parts in MPCs Funny Car kits that featured the Logghe chassis design. Each kit contained other parts mostly engine options that also echoed the street Gasser theme, but the front axle setups are the highlight of this story. These same parts can still be found buried deep inside most of MPCs many reissues of the 1969 Mustang GT kit.

MPC Malco Super Vett 1972 MPC took its excellent 1960 Corvette kit and produced a major revision to accurately replicate Chris Langs ISCA Custom Car Show Grand Champion winner and C/G class drag racer. The kit gained one-piece front flip, Hilborn injector setup, over-frame Gasser-style headers, radiused rear wheel wells, shallow and deep six-window Halibrand wheels, all complimented with a large decal sheet that replicated the prototypes ribbon starsnstripes paint scheme.

MPC Ohio George 1970 Maverick 1971 Boy, is this one an interesting story. Astute modelers have noted that the MPC kit differs in significant ways from the final Maverick race car that Ohio George used at the tracks, and a quick Web search should reveal a number of stories regarding how the 1:1 car and the kit came to be. Beyond that, MPCs model kit was a stand-alone, all-new tool that was specific to this prototype at a time when MPCs other drag racing kits were becoming more and more generic each year. The kit was configured with a stock wheelbase for the Gasser classes, along with parts to swap to a longer wheelbase for the altered classes. A fascinating kit to own and build.

MPC 1973-1974 cuda and Challenger annual kits 1972-73 By 1973, interest in the MPC cuda and Challenger annual kits had run its course. Clearly, the kitmaker needed a new merchandising angle. Revisiting an approach used for the AMT 1966 Falcon and its own GTO and Mustang annual kits, MPC engineered an entirely new Gasser front clip for these kits. Included were an early-1970s Gasser- style front subframe, parallel front leaf springs, Moon fuel tank, roll bar, deepndeeper Keystone mags, rear spoilers, wheelie bars, and parachute. The engines were also updated with Hilborn fuel-injection setups with ram tubes. These are fascinating kits that have never been reissued in this format, and thus they carry the high prices found on many collectible Mopar model car kits.

AMT 1951 Chevy Bel Air Hardtop 1976 This one is admittedly a sleeper choice; few modelers would think of this as a Gasser kit. Yet when you study the kit, it has all the appropriate accoutrements starting with an exceptionally complete and well-done Fisher 12-Port engine conversion with Hilborn fuel injection and six-tube headers (the box art states that it provided a sound like a B-29 in a power dive!) Then AMT added a raised front ride-height option, traction bars, roll bar, competition steering wheel, floor shift, and front and rear chrome reversed wheels. That this kit was engineered during a difficult period in AMTs history makes it even more notable here.

Honorable Mention continued


BIGGEST DISAPPOINTMENTS

WHATS NEXT?

Fortunately, nearly all 1/25 scale kits with a Gasser theme will please the builder, and a number of other Gasser kits nearly made our lists above. But a few Gasser kits are likely to disappoint, and in the interest of full disclosure, we are listing them here.

Revell 1941 Willys Pickup, Revell 1951 Henry J, and Revell 1950 Austin, 1969, 1969, and 1970 These three kits were introduced during the late 1960s and they share the same chassis, engine, and overall kit- design philosophy. The primary value of these kits is for their bodies. The engine is probably the worst drag racing 427 SOHC Ford ever found in mainstream 1/25 scale kits. The chassis is simplistic in design, with unrealistic geometry for the front wheels. The operation of the working body parts is sloppy at best. Oh, if these kits only had the design integrity of Revells earlier 1960s Gasser kits! Reissued many times over the years and easy to find today, the most desirable versions are the recent ones with new and period-correct decal sheets and Revells current manufacturing quality control.

Revell 1953 Chevy Bel Air and 1954 Chevy Sedan Delivery 1969 These were combination street- and Gasser-themed kits. The engine was a 409 Chevy, in blown or dual quad carbed form. The builder was expected to cut open the doors if they wanted to use the hinging mechanisms included in the kit. Most versions of these kits included stock and Gasser-style front suspensions. Although these kits do not share parts with the Revell Henry J, Austin, and Willys Pickup Gasser kits, they are from the same period of Revells history and as a result, the kit design philosophy is similar.

With the renewed popularity of Gassers, its a pretty safe bet well see newly-tooled Gasser variations of several 1/25 scale recent kit introductions. I know of one such kit in the engineering phase right now, and wouldnt be surprised if a couple more are announced by the time you read this article.

Ive often said that building Gasser model car kits is a guilty pleasure, and its an experience that should be shared by every model builder who has even a moderate interest in this genre. So what are you waiting for?

Tim Boyd

Several of our Top Ten Gasser models included companion kits with pickup, sedan delivery, or convertible bodies. These variants were otherwise identical to their sedan and coupe kit brethren.


HOW TO USE ALCLAD

CANDY PAINTNew line of candy colors lays down well with good preparation by MARK BATSON

Recently Alclad introduced its new line of about a dozen candy colors. At the same time, I was working on a kit review for Scale Auto. Although it wasnt part of my kit

review, I decided to try out one of the colors on the project. I was impressed with the brilliant Bright Silver Base and the

Candy Cobalt Blue I chose for the subject. The base coat and the candy coat laid down so smoothly that I found no need for a clear coat.

As with all candy-type paints, you will want to take a little extra time in body prep and priming, because sanding scratches and flaws in the bodywork tend to stand out under this type finish.

To help with fine scratches, Alclad has also introduced a fine white primer and scratch filler.

For this review, we will be looking at the Bright Silver Base Coat and several candy colors. Be sure to check your local hobby shop for your favorite.

I chopped up an old glue bomb found at a yard sale, and with the body panels primed and finished with Bright Silver base coat, I went to work.

Each of these colors laid down smoothly and evenly on the contours of each body panel. I applied three light coats of each color.

I recommend trying this product on your next project.

Plastic spoonshave been a favorite of many modelers to get a feel for colors.


Alclads new white primer and scratch filler. This primer lays down smooth, but I found it to be somewhat thin, requiring about three coats. But it did fill several small sanding scratches and gave a smooth finish for the Bright Silver Base Coat.

The Bright Silver Base Coat yields a beautiful finish all by itself.

I played with air pressures and found approximately 12 psi was perfect for an even, smooth finish. This is Candy Violet.

In addition to the spoons, I wanted to also see how these colors looked on various body panels. This is Electric Blue.

Same procedure on a door panel, with Candy Golden Yellow.

A trunk painted Candy Red.

Three coats of Candy Cobalt Blue on a completed model.


The Revell 2010 Mustang GT 500 was a Christmas gift

from my son, to be built and compete against the rising

number of large-scale models being shown. The biggest

challenge was to make it realistic and not toylike.

The model took one year to complete, with almost every

part of the kit reworked or remade. Ideas and reference

came from several issues of Modified Mustangs & Fords

magazine. Rob Smorey

1/12 scale 2010 Mustang GT500

OneGReATMOdel by jIm hauGhTSponsored by www.dragonmodelsusa.com

Scratchbuilt air cleaner clamps

Machined pulleys

RB Motion bolt heads/washers

Scratchbuilt hood pins

Machined brake rotors


About Rob SMoREY My father was my

biggest modeling

influence. Got

heavily involved

in car modeling

during the early 1980s when

introduced to this magazine. I

am a member of Buckeye Scale

Model Club of Columbus, Ohio. I

enjoy going to shows and

hanging out with guys in the

modeling community. Currently

employed at Aerosport Modeling

and Design in Columbus, Ohio,

for the last 7+ years.

Scratchbuilt exhaust

Scratchbuilt drive shaft

Modified rear bumper area

Scratchbuilt roll bar

Hand-painted redwalls

Two-part urethane clear

Machined five-spoke wheels

Reshaped mirrors

Basecoat red metallic/custom-mixed candy with red and silver flake

Filled side windows

Door handles and wipers removed


Building alarge-scale Enzo

Tamiyas 1/12 scale Ferrari Enzo has unique challenges by MARK MELCHIORI

Building a large-scale kit such as the Enzo is both the same and very different than building in a more standard scale. Sometimes the size of a kit can be a bit

intimidating, and at times it can make it easier. The biggest difference is the amount of space that is needed

because, well, the parts are just plain bigger. One of the biggest areas that the size affected was painting.

I usually hold parts to be painted with alligator clips or toothpicks. For this build, I used a lot of hemostats, and of all things, wooden chopsticks to hold parts. A paint-mixing stick with masking tape folded onto itself also proved useful.

The paint is another part of building large scale that can bring up issues. To put it bluntly, you will need a lot of it! Because of a couple of major issues, caused by me, I ended up painting the body parts of my Enzo three times. My original plan was to use Dupli-Colors relatively new Auto Shop lacquer and clear. I did all of my bodywork and primed it with Plastikote T235 gray sandable primer and wet sanded it. After the color coats dried, I proceeded to color-sand it before clearing it. It was then that I noticed that there was a reaction, and the body had crazed. After stripping the paint and primer, the body parts were sanded smooth (or so I thought) and primed with Tamiya primer. This primer coat was wet sanded

and I painted them with Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red. After this dried, I noticed that there were some rough spots in a mostly flawless finish. I decided that a kit of this caliber needed to have as good a paint job as possible, so I stripped paint job #2 off. This really took the wind out of my sails, and I decided to take a break from the model for a while. Upon returning to it, I repeated the repaint procedure and was satisfied with the results. I ended up using two-and-a-half cans of Tamiya primer and eight cans of Italian Red.

The moral of this story: never give up! Again, because many of the parts are so large, the

opportunities to detail-paint them really can add to the finished model. I did find that I had to use a larger-than-normal paint brush for a lot of it. I also did quite a bit of masking with tape on some parts to use spray cans for paint-detailing.

My favorite part of the build was final assembly. After the self-inflicted paint headache was over, final assembly was a relative walk in the park. I did find connecting all of the vinyl tubes and hoses to be a chore, but most of them are not visible on the finished model.

A lot of the parts and most of the subassemblies are held together with tiny screws and nuts. I was pleasantly surprised

The main chassis of the car is this very large piece. One would think that a molded plastic piece this large would have some warp to it; not this one. It was straight as an arrow. As a point of reference, I placed my 1/24 scale Tamiya Enzo next to the 1/12 scale chassis.

There are a few parts of this kit that have to be glued together. Here the engine/transaxle assembly has been glued and clamped. I did have to use some of my larger clamps to hold the parts.

Because the parts of the kit are bigger, their attachment point to the sprues are bigger, as well. The bigger attachment points are a necessity; they are actually the point through which the molten plastic flows into the mold.

Instead of the usual sprue cutters, I found it necessary to use a razor saw to remove many of the parts from the sprues. Extreme care had to be used to not remove any material from the parts themselves.

In preparation for the first paint job, I wet- sanded the body parts with 1000-grit sandpaper. Because of the large surface area on some of the parts, I used a foam block in an attempt to keep a uniform finish.

The sanding process revealed a few low spots and sink marks on the body parts that needed to be dealt with. The spots stand out by being shiny plastic compared to the sanded areas.I used automotive spot putty to fill in the low spots.

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to find that Tamiya included more than a few extras of most of them. I was worried that all of the ones that fell to my floor, never to be seen again, would be needed to be found somehow. I did have a small problem with overtightening some of them and stripping the plastic. A dab of epoxy rectified these situations and strengthened the assemblies.

All of the subassemblies were actually models of their own, and I was excited to see the finished product. I then came to the realization that if I broke or otherwise destroyed a part, the build would come to a screeching halt. Nowhere was this more obvious then when it came time to install the windows.

After carefully successfully cutting them from the tree with a new razor saw with no cracks or flaws, they were masked for painting their black borders. Luckily, the paint issues were behind me, and after removing the masking, they were still flawless. It was also lucky that very little adhesive was needed to install them. In fact, the windshield is virtually a snap fit.

There were a couple of downers to final assembly, though. First, I lost the magnet that is supposed to hold the trunk closed. Second, the top sections of the doors did not fit flush with the roof.

I could have tried to remedy this, but it looked as though I might have to disassemble a lot of the model to do so. I will

display my model with the doors open and no one will know, so dont tell anybody, OK?

I was pleased with the way the model turned out. The amount of detail that can be packed into a large-scale kit is amazing. You just have to prepare yourself for some of the differences that building in a large scale can bring.

The Ferrari Enzo was built to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Ferrari Company. With its wild, cutting-edge design and mind-boggling performance, the Enzo has become an automotive icon for the 21st century.

Fujimi, Revell, and Tamiya have done 1/24 scale plastic kits of the Enzo, and all are good.

This 653-piece monster of a kit is just about everything that you would expect from Tamiya. From the working suspension systems, the opening body panels, and the detailed engine, this kit has all of the ingredients to be a show-stopper.

The price tag may keep some modelers from buying it, but those who do will not regret it. Mark Melchiori

big-ScAle enzo

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After cutting the rear bumper from the sprue, I noticed small holes that were left behind. They were not very deep, so I filled them with Tamiya Gray liquid primer. It took two coats to fill the holes, and it sanded down beautifully.

The suspension arms had some sizable mold lines. I thought they might replicate casting lines on the 1:1 cars parts, but research proved this not to be the case, so the lines needed to be removed. The rather hard metal pieces needed to be filed smooth instead of merely scraping them with a knife. A few quick passes with a file netted a smoother surface. A coat of metal primer and black paint made a satisfactory replication of the 1:1 parts.

This is the trunk panel after stripping the first paint job. You can see how the surface was marred by the paint or primer reacting with the plastic. It took two bouts of sanding, priming, and painting to get a surface that I was happy with.

Tamiya provides wire and vinyl tubing to mimic the fluid lines and wiring of the 1:1 car. The attachment points needed to be drilled out so the wires and hoses would have more positive mounting points for assembly.

The suspension arms are cast metal. I found that I needed to drill the ends out to make sure they were round and that the mounting hardware would go through them without binding.

While building 1/24 scale kits, I like to mount some parts to the ends of toothpicks for painting. Because of the sheer size of some of the parts, this was not possible. A dinner trip to a Chinese restaurant netted the idea of using chopsticks to hold parts. As you can see, they worked well!

For my usual 1/24 scale builds; I mount large parts to a Tamiya paint stand or tape them to the top of an old spray can. The sheer size of many of the parts in this kit prevented some of that. I had to build some of my own spray fixtures. Sections of wood dowel and some cable ties were used to build this one.

There were a lot of tiny screws used for assembly. Some were only 2 millimeters long. Luckily, they were steel, and Tamiya saw fit to include a magnetized screwdriver. The magnetism did start to wear off at times, but setting the tip on a strong magnet on my bench overnight seemed to recharge it.

Some of the assemblies require the builder to hold a part in this case an upper suspension mount and put a screw through a bracket or suspension part. Not being three-handed, I found it helpful to use a high-tech material called duct tape to hold the large part while I assembled the rest.

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The piece of the undertray beneath the engine on the 1:1 car is covered in insulation to help manage the heat inside the engine compartment. Here I have made a masking tape template that follows the curvature of the part.

Virtually every car built today has a black border around its windows. For years, Tamiya has included window masks in their kits to help replicate this border. I have always found them to fit perfectly, even if it takes extreme care to get them on correctly. I always use black enamel for this step, to prevent a hotter paint from eating through the tape. Always remember to tape over the other side of the window to prevent overspray.

This shot shows the masking that was done on the outside of the engine cover. Be sure to burnish down all of the tape edges to prevent any bleedthrough.

One part of the kit that I was not completely happy with was the self-adhesive material provided for the seat belts. I found that they did not want to stick to the seats as well as they should. I ended up using white glue to get them to stay in position.

Here is the front of the chassis, with the front suspension installed. You can see the maze of wires and hoses that need to be connected. Some of them run the entire length of the car. It is too bad that most of them cannot be seen on the finished model.

Here is the finished undertray with the insulation imitated by bakers cake foil. The complete how-to of this process is in the October 2010 issue of Scale Auto.

One of the really nice things that Tamiya did with this kit was molding an L and an R on several parts. This helped greatly me in the assembly process to g

scale auto 10 - 2013

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