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Spring in Sweden brings a sense of freedom. Students have finished their exams for the year and the family holidays hover temptingly on the horizon. The 20 islands of the Gothenburg archipelago shrug off winter’s dark mantle with wildflowers blooming and seal pups being born. Sweden is the world leader for gender equality and Gothenburg’s many courtyard cafés buzz with latte-pappor (latte dads) nursing babies and cinnamon buns. University students lounge in the botanical gardens and well-dressed women cycle along the city’s 19th-century canals to chichi Haga. The food scene revolves around bounty plucked from the North Sea. Indeed, locals treat their seafood with an almost religious fervour, which is appropriate given that the fish market is housed in what looks like a church with a pitched roof and neo-gothic windows. In May,the word on everyone’s lips is mussels. The west coast’s cooler waters allow them to ripen slowly until they are plump and bursting with flavour.

What to doGöteborgsVarvet on 20 May is the world’s largest half

marathon, comprising 64,000 runners. It starts in beautiful Slottsskogen Park, where the petting zoo with Gotland ponies reopens in spring. goteborgsvarvet.se Majorna was once a working-class area but, as prices rise in the city centre, its traditional County Governor-style houses have become a haven for creatives. In May, 50 artists open their studios; you can see more of their work at a corresponding exhibition at the Röda Sten Art Centre. rodasten.com Walpurgis Night is an ancient Swedish celebration to welcome spring. It lasts from 30 April into the early hours of May Day, featuring a parade from Chalmers University of Technology students and bonfires to ward off bad spirits.

Where to meet and eat Da Matteo is Gothenburg’s original cool café and is credited with introducing Italian-style coffee to the city. Head to the Vallgatan site’s sunny courtyard. damatteo.seGabriel’s is one of two restaurants in the Fish Church. Chef Johan Malm is Gabriel’s son, and the family has honed its relationships with fishermen to ensure it gets first pick. Don’t miss the creamy chowder. restauranggabriel.com Tredje Långgatan is pedestrianised from May and its many restaurants are quick to colonise the extra space. Get down to the old Gothenburg Auction House where you can tuck into skagenröra (prawns on toast) and cocktails from Taverna Averna, which grows herbs on its roof. tredjelanggatan.se

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Funen, the island on which Odense is set, is known as Denmark’s garden thanks to its apple orchards and fertile asparagus beds. As with most gardens, spring is when life is renewed after the bleakest months of the year and in Denmark, Odense leads the charge. The motto of the country’s third city is at leger er at leve (to play is to live) and there is something exuberant about the sculptures of giant water lilies that children leap on and the way that pockets of greenery pop up in the most unexpected places. This petite metropolis with a medieval core has 120 parks, all of which come into their own this month. There’s the Klosterhaven (convent garden), a patch nestled against the wall of St Canute’s cathedral, which nurtures carpets of crocuses and more than 125 varieties of rare herbs. The Fairy Tale Garden, built to remember the town’s most famous son, Hans Christian Andersen, is another winner thanks to starbursts of daffodils.

What to doAsparagus Lunch on 13 May is when Funen’s finest producers club together with restaurants such as No.61 to create a feast

centred around these delectable spears. spisodense.dkOdense Harbour Culture Festival on 26-28 May brings free concerts, street stalls and games to the water and streets around the harbour. The line-up will include the likes of Danish blues band The Blue Van and other folk acts. odense.dkStige Island was once a landfill site, the town’s proverbial ugly duckling, but has recently blossomed into a nature reserve. The fishing season begins at the end of March. odense.dk

Where to meet and eat Bazar Fyn is a vibrant world food market on Thriges Square, with 65 shops. Sip an Arabic coffee from Café La Goullette and try Brazilian street food at Pastel Brasil. bazarfyn.dk Restaurant Under the Linden Tree is found in an 18th-century building next to the home of Hans Christian Andersen. Enjoy seasonal plates under the eponymous tree. underlindetraet.dkS’Vineriet Vinapotek is a stylish wine shop with a sunny outdoor terrace. In spring, Michel, the owner, stocks 15 rosés. Meet the locals at his wine and bingo night on 1 May. vinapotek.dk

After long, dark winters, Scandinavian cities come alive. Festivals, alfresco dining and activities make a perfect May getaway, says Imogen Lepere

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Below, from left: strolling in the spring sunshine on Nedergade street; the City Museum; awaiting a boat trip on Odense River; regional fare is served

From left: Odense’s St Alban’s Church; oysters; Danish delicacies; ancient city streets

This page: canalside in Gothenburg, Sweden’s lively second city

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Below, from left: plating on the edge; dining out in hip Haga; flower stall; fishmarket diners; city apartments; even cutlery has a seafood flavourPho

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The Finnish summer is short and the spring is even shorter, typically lasting just eight precious weeks. A blanket of snow deadens southern Finland from December to April, so it makes sense that the sight of the first butter yellow coltsfoot flowers is enough to make locals ditch their trademark reserve and dive head-first into picnics, street parties and festivals. Helsinki is particularly suited to the warmer months. Surrounded by the Baltic on three sides, it has 300 islands, including historic Suomenlinna and Lammassaari, with its bird-watching tower from which you can catch migratory flocks return for spring. In May, you’ll find hardy Finns emerging from saunas on to beaches such as Hietaranta for daring dips in the Baltic. Local adage says that winter is not truly over until the swallows return to the city, so head to Keskuspuisto Park and see if it’s true. This nature reserve is covered in pine forests crisscrossed with hiking trails. Keep your eyes peeled for rabbits, whose coats turn from white to brown as the snow melts, while chefs from local restaurants will be making the most of the wild herbs that scent the air. What to doLovely Helsinki Festival between 18-21 May transforms the CBD with cheerful flower displays and discounts at more than

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200 shops and restaurants. lovelyhelsinki.comMay Day or Vappu is a spring bank holiday in Finland. Join the thousands of people who descend on the Market Square for evening drinks on 30 April, then head to Ullanlinna Hill for a herring and champagne picnic the next day.World Village Festival from 27-28 May sees artists from around the world descend on Kaisaniemi Park and Railway Square to celebrate creativity and tolerance. maailmakylassa.fi

Where to meet and eat Chef & Sommelier is an organic fine-diner tucked away in residential Ullanlinna. It’s particularly exciting in May when chef Sasu Laukkonen begins foraging again. Expect orpine, nettle and bitter cress. chefetsommelier.fiRestaurant Saari is a seafood gem on tiny Sirpalesaari Island, a short boat hop from Merisatama pier. Expect blue and white checked tablecloths, arctic char and wild herb salads. It reopens for the season on 1 May. ravintolasaari.fiTeurastamo (The Abattoir) is Helsinki’s version of New York’s meat-packing district. From May it buzzes with food trucks and a communal barbecue pit. There’s a beach and lawn area, as well as hammocks made for lazy afternoons. teurastamo.com

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Ask most Danes why they get the day off for Store Bededag on 12 May and they will shrug. Although the origins of the ‘great prayer day’ may be murky, locals embrace the traditions of eating warm wheat buns and going for walks in the sun with gusto. In Copenhagen, residents choose routes that take them through blushing cherry blossom trees, such as the famous alley at Bispebjerg Cemetery. It seems nothing can dampen the spirits of the happiest city in the world as, in spring, even cemeteries, such as Assistens, become meeting places for picnics, exercise classes and friends sharing flasks of coffee. The poster girl for Nordic cool, Copenhagen is particularly alluring at this time of year, when the windows of the apricot-painted houses on Amagergade are thrown open and boats bob on the three lakes that punctuate the city centre. Locals jump at the chance to shed overcoats that have swathed them all winter and to show off their renowned sense of style. Expect to see them clad in T-shirts made with sustainable cotton, revealing tattoo sleeves, sunglasses and tailored blazers paired with flowing trousers.

What to doGoBoat is a solar-powered boat hire company based next to the Islands Brygge harbour baths. Pack lunch and spend the day

exploring the canals, which are especially pretty around Christianshavn. No licence necessary. goboat.dk Ravnsborggade is a street in the happening Nørrebro district which has a Sunday antiques market from March. Soak up some sunshine while looking out for Royal Copenhagen china and mid-century furniture. ravnsborggade.dk Tivoli Gardens welcomes spring with open arms. This year the flower displays will be gloriously kitsch El Nino tulips, and the Philharmonic Orchestra will play its first concert of the season here on 27 May. tivoli.dk

Where to meet and eat Copenhagen Street Food is the place to see and be seen on spring evenings. Pick from Nordic stews or Korean bibimbap, then take your spoils outside where hundreds of deck chairs boast views of the harbour. copenhagenstreetfood.dkIllum Rooftop is a food court in Denmark’s most modish department store. Opt for shellfish and champagne from Skagen Fiskerestaurant and admire Copenhagen’s spires. illum.dk Østergro is an urban farm. What was once the roof of a car auction lot is now an organic oasis. In May, its new restaurant, Spiseri, will be launching in one of the greenhouses. oestergro.dk

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This page: the Marble Church at dusk. Below, from left: bicycles abound; city cuisine; café culture: Tivoli Gardens fair; the Little Mermaid; Tivoli gate; today’s catch

Clockwise from top left: Helsinki skyline; the cathedral; terrace drinks; mouthwatering market; city festival; gourmet starters; pedals and petals; Lake Saimaa villa; soaking up early sun; Marsalkka wheat beer

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For Norwegians, there are two surefire ways to tell that spring is in the air. The first is the leathery smell of sprouting birch trees, which are often brought inside during April and May to reiterate the fact that winter really is over. The second is the abundance of crime stories that crop up on TV and in bookshops to correspond with Easter, a tradition that started in 1923. In Oslo, you’ll find locals devouring these paperbacks on benches in Vigeland Sculpture Park or over silky cappuccinos in Vulkan’s many refined cafés. Norway’s prosperous capital is as sophisticated as they come. It leads the coffee scene in Europe and is home to seven world-class museums and the Barcode Project, which has smashed boundaries in modern architecture. In May, however, its well-heeled residents opt for simple pleasures: trips to Nordmarka forest followed by tender lamb with new potatoes and wild garlic; and strolls along the harbour to see the sailing boats return to the Oslo Fjord after their long winter sleep. At Rådhusbrygge (pier) three, behind the City Hall, fishermen sell lightly boiled fresh shrimp, which locals demolish by the bagful in waterside parks, leaving the shells for seagulls to clear up.

What to do Bygdoy Vergne Peninsula is a romantic stretch that has belonged to the monarchy since 1305. Cycle through royal farmland and walk along the tide line on Huk and Paradisbukta beach. From April, you can reach the peninsula by ferry. National Day on 17 May commemorates the signing of the constitution in 1814. In Oslo, 60,000 children in bunads (national dress) march from Festningsplassen and Youngstorget to the City Hall, while the royal family looks on. Oslo Medieval Festival between 26-28 May is a wacky time warp weekend held outside Akershus Fortress. Think jugglers, wandering minstrels wielding lyres and an open-air market. oslomiddelalderfestival.org

Where to meet and eat Himkok is hidden in an old brick building on Storgata. Go for craft spirits in seasonal cocktails, served in the flower-filled courtyard. In May, try Fjellbekk-san: Himkok aquavit, sake, spruce syrup and elderflower tonic. himkok.noMaaemo is at the forefront of new Nordic cuisine and was recently awarded its third Michelin star. Head chef Esben Holmboe Bang aims to capture the rugged nature and climate of Norway on every plate. In spring, this may involve dandelion leaves, new radishes, ramson flowers and mackerel. maaemo.noSolsiden nestles below medieval Akershus Fortress, just a few feet above sea level, and opens for the summer on 2 May. Feast on a platter of snow crab, lobster and oysters as you watch the sun sink below the Oslo Fjord. solsiden.no

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Clockwise from top left: Bjørvika tram station; Oslo’s wide city streets; shrimps at the harbour; the colourful old town; the Barcode Project buildings

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Welcome to a city of sevens. It is surrounded by seven hulking mountains and borders seven glassy fjords, including Sognefjord, the longest and deepest in the country. Norway’s second city is the most northerly on our list, as well as the most wild. Winter hits hard here. The mercury rarely rises above -10C and frozen winds whip off the North Sea, making it feel even colder. In light of this, it’s not surprising that the coming of spring makes its residents want to sing. Bergen is home to a leading jazz festival in May as well as an award-winning orchestra and choir, a new wave of electronic DJs and one of the leading Romantic composers, Edvard Grieg, who attributed much of his inspiration to the beautiful landscape that surrounds the city. Most of the fjord trips restart on 1 May. Slide through the Aurlandsfjord on a kayak, wander beneath clouds of blossom in the fruit orchards of Hardangerfjord and spot sea eagles soaring between the sheer cliffs that line Nærøyfjord. At the end of May, scarlet splodges of wild strawberries dot the forests and local families often spend their weekends foraging. From the time it was founded 900 years ago, the harbour has been Bergen’s nucleus. It was from here that the Vikings set off in their long boats to wreak the wars they spun into beautiful Norse sagas, and also where Hanseatic merchants loaded their ships with salt. Today, its mustard yellow buildings are the centre of the town’s spring social life.

What to doBergen International Festival between 24 May-7 June is the most prolific music and theatre celebration in Scandinavia. This

year there will be 250 events, including a piano recital from superstar Lang Lang, folk ballads from Sondre Bratland and a performance of Carmen choreographed by Carlos Acosta. fib.noNatjazz is the biggest jazz festival in northern Europe. From 26 May-4 June, smooth, sultry strains will bring a slice of New Orleans to Norway. Ralph Myerz and Moon Hooch are already confirmed, and many more are expected. nightjazz.noSeven Mountains walking tour happens annually on the last Sunday in May. Locals greet spring by hiking 30km from Laksevaag to Sandviksfjellet, across all seven of their guardian peaks with a total ascent of 2,300 metres. The four mountains hike is a good alternative for the slightly less hearty.

Where to meet and eat Cornelius Seafood Restaurant serves an Eat The Fjords lunch menu from May. Catch the boat from Bryggen to Bjorøy Island, where foraged seaweed and home-smoked fish are dished up in the glass dining room. corneliusrestaurant.no Fish Me has been a stalwart of the market for 25 years. Everything in the wet fish counter is local (don’t miss persetorsk, Bergen’s answer to cod) and the restaurant’s terrace is a few metres from the harbour’s edge. fishme.no Fløien Folkerestaurant has perched atop Mount Fløyen since 1925. Catch the funicular railway from the town centre and enjoy a slab of kvæfjordkake (Norway’s national cake) with strawberries on the huge terrace. Its summer restaurant, a self-service sandwich bar, reopens in May. floienfolkerestaurant.no

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Clockwise from top: harbourside in Bergen; drinking in the sea views; Hanseatic houses; take a trip to a nearby fjord

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