schauer & sons 1-8pg 10 - arlington, mn 55307 · the sibley shopper, april 4, 2010 farm &...

Farm & Home Spring Guide 2010 The Sibley Shopper, April 4, 2010

By Dennis Van MoorlehemSibley County Fair Board Member

What are you doing August 4-8?Come on over to Arlingtonand visit the Sibley County

Fair. We have two demolition derbys, anight of destruction, auto races and horseshows. We even have a surprise night ofentertainment to be announced soon.

Once again we are going to have greatchildren’s entertainment with petting zoosand a carnival with bracelet rides good for

multiple hours of riding for onelow price.

The ever popular FFA babyanimal barn will return againthis year. Our Kids’ Day willhave kids’ entertainment withpuppets riding around thegrounds talking to children anda drawing for fantastic prizes.

Our free entertainment build-

ing line-up is near completion.We will have some of the bestcountry rock bands around aswell as traditional rock bandsfrom the area. On Sunday morn-ing we will have the ever popularpolka service followed by greatpolka music.

As in the past, each eveningwill be hot music, great eats,

something to quench your thirst and greatcompany. On Friday night our free sweetcorn floating in butter feed, will takeplace by the entertainment building.

The Fair Board would like to extend aninvitation to everyone. We are going allout to entertain you, and in the coming months we will announce timesand dates of our great line up.

We hope to see you all at the SibleyCounty Fair!

Let yourself go at the Sibley County Fair

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The Sibley Shopper, April 4, 2010 Farm & Home Spring Guide 2010

Contributors: Karen Jeannette, Research Fellow and Yard and Gardennews editor; excerpts from the 2010Minnesota Gardening Calendar.

Plant Tips• Inspect your apple or crabap-

ple trees for fire blight so you canprune out all traces of the diseasethis month. You might also findthe blackened, dead branch tipson pear trees or mountain ash.Check also for black knotswellings on chokecherries andother members of the cherry fami-ly. Prune at least six inches backin to healthy wood when you re-move diseased tissue. If possible,dip your pruners into bleach solu-tion between cuts.

See the following articles fromthe March 1, 2007 Yard and Gar-den News to best implementsound pruning practices: PruningTools, Pruning Cuts, PruningOut Galls and Cankers.

• Start seeds that need eight to10 weeks growth indoors underfluorescent lights by mid-month.Sweet alyssum, blue salvia, anddianthus pinks are just a few suchseeds. Peppers, eggplants, and leeks areamong others. Tomatoes may be started atthe same time, but plants will be ratherlarge when you put them outdoors. It isbetter to wait until the end of the month to

plant tomato seeds indoors.• For more information on starting

seeds, see: http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/M1245.html Starting Seeds Indoors.

• Check produce you have kept in coolstorage to make sure nothing is turningsoft or rotting. Remove anything suspect,as problems can readily spread. Wintersquash, onions, apples and potatoes all

have finite storage life, particularly if tem-peratures are warmer than ideal. Non-hardy summer bulbs, roots and corms suchas dahlias, tuberous begonias, canna orcalla lillies may also soften or shrivel if

temps are too high or conditionstoo dry.

• Heavy spring snowfall oftenweighs down evergreen boughsand flattens newly emerging bulbs.It is probably best to just let thesnow melt off on its own. If youprefer to remove it from ever-greens, scoop it off gently ratherthan hitting the branches. They arestill brittle this time of year andprone to breakage. Snow will notpermanently harm bulbs, thoughthey might not straighten up com-pletely this year.

• Fertilize houseplants now thatdays are growing noticeablylonger.

• Just getting to planning thegarden now? Review the Januarynotes for Planning the 2010 Gar-den with Minnesota Gardening In-formation.

Events• Horticulture Day workshops

hosted by your local extension of-fice are available to the public. Find a hor-ticulture day near you.

• Spring gardening events for 2010 arealso listed on many county extension Websites.

March 2010 Garden Calendar

Photo by Karen Jeannette.March is a good time for pruning out disease.Shown here: Black Knot on Prunus.

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Though it might have been com-mon knowledge back in gradeschool, there is a good chance you

might have forgotten what kind of tree thatis outside your kitchenwindow. Even those witha green thumb might notremember the differ-ences between types oftrees. For those whoneed a cheat sheet, thefollowing is a break-down of the some of themore common types oftrees you might havearound your property.

• Dogwood: Dog-woods boast colorful au-tumn leaves, makingthem a favorite of thoselooking to trees to addaesthetic appeal to theirproperty.

• Maple: Maple treesare very commonthroughout the milder re-gions of the northernhemisphere. Leaves are similar to thosedepicted on the Canadian flag, and thesedeciduous trees are most commonly grownas medium to large trees.

• Evergreen: Any plant, tree or shrubthat maintains its leaves year-round. Leafpersistence can last from as short as oneyear to as long as 40 years, though the av-erage is closer to five years.

• Willow: Willows are most common inmoist areas, along flood-

plains or riverbanks.Willows are rapid-grow-ing and boast very simple flowers that lackpetals.

• Birch: Birch treesproduce separate, abun-dant, tiny male and fe-male flowers in denseclusters. Birch trees aregenerally most commonin arctic regions in thenorthern hemisphere.

• Ash: Ash are gener-ally valued for their tim-ber and recently beganbeing a favorite choiceof wood among baseballplayers for their bats.Characterized by small,greenish flowers, ash

trees in North Americahave been subject to disease for severalyears, rarely living beyond 10 years as re-sult.

What type of treeis that in the yard?

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By Carl Hoffman,University of Minnesota Extension

As the snow melts this spring, many homeownersare finding round, light colored spots and areasof their lawns covered with a cobweb-like fun-

gal growth. These are the symptoms of a fungal diseasecalled snow mold.

Snow mold is common during years when an early,deep snow coverprevents the soilfrom freezing. Thisyear, we have warmair temperaturesand temperaturesunder the snowslightly belowfreezing which,with the wet condi-tions promotes thedevelopment of thedisease.

Snow mold fungimay continue to in-fect home lawnsafter the snowmelts, as long asconditions are cool and wet. As the temperature begins torise and the lawns begin to dry, snow mold fungi becomeinactive.

Although the damage from snow mold is seldom seri-ous, we have had years where large areas of lawns arekilled. Generally, infected areas are just a little slower togreen up.

Gently rake affected areas of the lawn to aerate and pro-mote drying which prevents further fungal growth. There

is no need for chemical controls unless there is an area onthe lawn where the snow mold appears every year. In se-vere cases, a preventative application of thiophanatemethyl (Clearys 3336 or Bonomyl) in October or earlyNovember may be helpful. Application of a fungicide atthis time of the year is ineffective.

There are two different types of snow mold: pink snowmold and gray snow mold, each caused by a different fun-gus. Either of the snow mold fungi typically appears with-

in the homelawn as cir-cular straw-coloredpatches ofgrass. Thesepatches usu-ally appearmatted and

are often covered by white, pink,or gray fungal growth, which hasa webby appearance.

Pink snow mold produces pinkcolored spores and pinkish col-ored fuzzy mycelium while graysnow mold produces sclerotiawhich appear as dark coloredhard bee-bee shaped bodies on

the grass blades.To minimize snow mold damage, avoid excessive appli-

cations of nitrogen in the fall. If snow mold is common inyour lawn, skip the fall fertilizer application. Continue tomow the lawn at the recommended height until it is nolonger actively growing. The taller the grass, the morelikely it will mat and encourage snow mold. Do not, how-ever, cut the grass shorter than 2 inches. Grass that is cuttoo short will be subject to winter injury in the event of acold, open winter.

Rake up leaves in the fall as a heavy layer of leavescauses a cool, wet environment that encourages snowmold in the spring. As the snow begins to melt in thespring, break up and spread out large snow piles to en-courage rapid melting. If you have problem spots in yourlawn, consider using snow fencing to minimize snow ac-cumulation in those spots.

Snow mold appears as snow melts

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When it comes to springand summer, manypeople associate cer-

tain sights and sounds with thesewarm-weather seasons: oceanwaves crashing, luscious lawnsglowing green and birds chirpingare often associated with springand summer.

While homeowners might notbe able to bring the soothingsounds of the ocean to theirhomes, they can bring the lyricalsounds of birds chirping to theiryards. Bird feeders make a won-derful addition to any lawn or gar-den, adding aesthetic appeal andbringing music to your ears.

Choosing a bird feeder can de-pend on where you will be hang-ing it. But whatever the layout ofyour property, bird feeders comein so many shapes and sizes thatyou are sure to find the right fit.

• Tray (platform): These feed-ers are simply a big, open tray thatis easy to fill and easy for birds toaccess seed. What is more, they can ac-commodate several birds at one time. Mostbirds will jump at the chance to feast at a

tray feeder. There are some who will be re-luctant, however, including doves, quail,sparrows and other ground feeders. How-

ever, they can certainly dine on any seedthat gets spilled over.

• Hopper feeders: These have plastic or

glass enclosures that dole outseed as it is needed. This is asmart choice since seed is notwasted and it is protectedwhen not being eaten.

• Window feeders: Beforestorm windows and screened-in windows infiltrated modernsociety, birdseed was simplystrewn out on an open windowsill. You can still invite birdsto your window with a win-dow feeder that mounts like awindow box. Or, there aremodels that simply suction tothe window itself.

• Tube feeders: These justmay be the most efficient typeof feeders out there. They areself-contained, the seed staysdry, and they hold a largeamount of seed, making refill-ing an infrequent job. Theyalso can feed a good numberof birds at one time.

• Nectar feeders: Somebirds, like hummingbirds, ori-oles, house finches and somewoodpeckers, prefer sweet

nectar or sugar water over seed. Use a nec-tar feeder to satisfy their sweet tooth.

Bird feeders of many shapes andsizes can add aesthetic appeal

Bird feeders come in many shapes and sizes, ensuring homeowners they can find the rightfit for their yard.

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As society continues to grow moreenvironmentally conscious, moreand more homeowners are look-

ing for ways to do their part outside theirhome as well as inside it. One increasinglypopular option for eco-conscioushomeowners is solar light-ing. But the benefits ofsolar lighting go be-yond the environ-mental.

• Financial:Solar lighting isquite possiblythe most af-fordable op-tion for out-door lighting.That is be-cause oncesolar lightingis installed,there are nomore costs tospeak of. Employingsolar energy topower its bulbs, solar light-ing does not use any elec-tricity, keeping energybills low as a result.

• Aesthetic appeal: Tra-ditional outdoor lighting often requiresoutdoor outlets and power cords. However,solar lighting utilizes rechargeable batter-ies that are recharged by the sunlight

hitting the solar panels, eliminating theneed for unsightly external power outletsand power cords.

• Practical: Many homeowners admitroutinely forgetting to turn on their out-

door lights, reducing their in-vestment value as a re-

sult. However, solarlighting does not re-

quire the home-owner to re-

member athing, assolar light-ing is auto-maticallyoperated,meaning thelights willcome ononce the sun

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much as the flipof a switch.

• Safety: Solarlighting also adds

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ic, it is easier to see at night when arrivinghome because the lights will already be onshould a homeowner get home after dark.What’s more, because solar lighting auto-matically comes on, homeowners can feelsafe knowing that the lighting is on evenwhen they are on vacation or away for theweekend, reducing the risk of potentialhome break-ins.

Solar lighting can bebeneficial in many ways


Few things exude the spirit of sum-mer more than a backyard barbe-cue. Ca-

sual attire is ex-pected, and the agood time is hadby all.

One thing thatcan ruin even thebest barbecue,however, is theuninvited guestwith a big ap-petite. And it isnot uncle Frank.Mosquitoesmight not ask fora third or fourthhamburger, butthey do tend tofeast wheneverthey get thechance.

At best, mos-quitoes are an-noying andpesky. At worst,mosquitoes pose a serious health risk toadults and pets, as mosquitoes can carryviruses that result in illness.

But mosquitoes do not have to ruin youroutdoor plans this summer. Instead, takinga proactive approach before the summerseason starts can help reduce the risk ofmosquitoes dropping by your next barbe-

cue. The following methods can makeyour yard less attractive to hungry mosqui-toes, ensuring uncle Frank will be the onlyone filling up at the next barbecue.

• Destroy or dis-pose of tin cans,old tires, bucketsand similar water-holding containers.

• Drill holes inthe bottom of recy-cling containersthat are left outsideand cover trashcontainers to keepout rainwater.

• Clean cloggedroof gutters on anannual basis.

• Change waterevery week in bird-baths and wadingpools.

• Aerate orna-mental pools or

stock them withfish.

• Clean and chlo-rinate swimming

pools that are not being used.• Check for trapped water in plastic or

canvas tarps and arrange them so theydrain properly.

• Clean animal troughs weekly.• Irrigate lawns and gardens carefully to

prevent water from standing for severaldays.

Keep mosquitoesfrom ruining yourbackyard BBQ

Homeowners can do several things tokeep mosquitoes from ruining their nextbackyard barbecue.

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By David Bau,University of Minnesota Extension

Farm land values continued to riselast year and are once again reach-ing all time record levels, accord-

ing to a survey I conduct annually on barefarm land sales. However, the recent in-crease across the 14 Minnesota countiessurveyed was only 0.8 percent.

I often receive requests for this informa-tion from across the state, although allcounties surveyed are in southwesternMinnesota. Surveyed counties includeChippewa, Cottonwood, Jackson, Lac quiParle, Lincoln, Lyon, Martin, Murray, No-bles, Pipestone, Redwood, Rock, Waton-wan and Yellow Medicine.

Data from these counties indicatedprices increased from an average of $3,702in 2008 to $3,733 in 2009, or an increaseof 0.8 percent. This increase is significant-ly smaller than last year’s 30 percent in-crease. There was a lot of variability from2008 to 2009. The largest increase was inLac qui Parle County with an increase of26.8 percent while Cottonwood Countyexperienced a decline of 36.7 percent

Four of the counties experienced de-clines in farm land values. The two coun-ties with the largest declines, Cottonwoodand Lyon, were those with the largest per-centage increases from 2007 to 2008.

Assessed values became closer to sale val-ues. Historically, the assessed value wouldbe 75 to 80 percent of the sales value, butthe survey showed the new average for the14 counties increased to 94.78 percent.Three counties experienced average salesprices that were less than the average as-sessed values.

There are several factors that have an ef-fect on land values. Farm income, grain

prices, interest rates, return on other investments and 1031 exchanges are oftenmentioned as reasons for the increase.

Farm profits continued to be good in2009 although down slightly from theyear before. In 2008 profits were good,but not at record levels.This trend will probablycontinue, depending ongood cornand soy-bean

yields.Many livestock producers experienced a

tough year in 2009, with losses instead ofprofits due to poor prices for their com-modities and high feed costs.

How high can farm land values go? Supply and demand will determine this.

The simple return on investment, deter-mined by rental rates, will determinehow competitive farm land is com-

pared to other investments. If inter-est rates rise or farm rental ratesfall, the value of land is sure to beaffected in a negative way.

Barring those scenarios, the price of farmland will continue to climb.

If you would like a copy of a two-pagedocument on the trends in farm land saleprices, and you live in one of the fourteencounties surveyed, the document is avail-able at no cost at your University of Min-nesota Extension county office (contact in-formation for Extension offices can befound at http://www.extension.umn.edu/offices/). If you reside in another countyand would like the document sent to you,contact me at (507) 372-3906 or [email protected].

Media Contact: Catherine Dehdashti, U of M Extension, (612) 625-0237, [email protected].

Farm land values increase slightlyThe Sibley Shopper, April 4, 2010 Farm & Home Spring Guide 2010

We have buyers willing to pay top dollar for farm land.If you are looking to sell your

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0 A

G


By Bill Wilcke,University of Minnesota Extension

This spring could be a critical timeto monitor stored grain, especiallyhigher moisture grain.

Some people are worried about possiblefreezing, thawing and refreezing of grain,resulting in hard-to-handle chunks. Butkeeping the grain at just about the freezingpoint of water should prevent this fromhappening. If the grain is below freezingnow, running aeration fans when the out-door air is just above freezing should re-duce problems.

University of Minnesota Extension rec-ommendations are based on research donehere and at other land-grant universities.Following these recommendations willhelp farmers and other grain handlers inthe upper Midwest improve profitabilityand safety.

When you are warming grain, condensa-tion will occur just ahead of the warming.If the fan is shut off prematurely, the con-densed moisture could freeze. Leaving thefans on until the warming front has passedall the way through the bin can help avoidthis problem. The University of Minneso-ta’s WINFANS software program can beused to help estimate airflow and answerother questions. It is available on Exten-sion’s Web site at www.extension.umn.edu/lateharvest/index.html#storage.

While winter is still with us, aerate grainas needed to maintain storage temperature.

Fans can usually be shut off between aera-tion cycles. Once stored grain has cooledto 30 degrees, there is not much dryingtaking place; molds will grow slowly. Butstill check grain regularly—depending onits condition—for signs and smells ofmold and stored-grain insects.

When spring comes, grain cooledbelow 30 degrees must be warmed toprevent problems with condensationor frosting of equipment during sum-mer. (You may not need to warm grainif it was not cooled below 30 degrees).During grain warming, fans must beleft on until warming is complete.Grain must be dry before warm weath-er comes.

Work safely around storedgrain. Use good respiratory equipmentaround

dusty/moldy grain. Stay out of flowinggrain, watch for bridged grain, and usefall protection when climbing bins orrail cars. If stored grain becomes in-fested with insects, fumigating to re-duce insect populations is one option.Remember, fumigants are potentiallydangerous chemicals.

The University of Minnesota De-partment of Bioproducts and Biosys-tems Engineering has more informa-tion on grain storage on its Post-Har-vest Handling of Crops website atwww.bbe.umn.edu/Post-Harvest_Handling_of_Crops.There is also helpful information onExtension’s Late Harvest Web site atwww.extension.umn.edu/LateHarvest.

Questions are taken through Exten-sion’s Farm Information Line at (800)232-9077, or e-mail at [email protected] and e-mail questions areanswered the next business day andthe service is free.

Media Contact: Catherine Dehdashti, U of M Extension, (612) 625-0237, [email protected].

Watch stored grain so little problemsdo not become big Ag News Wire

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There are few things more frustrat-ing than working hard to achievea vibrant, green lawn only to have

it ravaged by insects. Some bugs eat lawnblades top to bottom. Others like to suckout the moisture from the lawn. Still othersmunch on the roots of your grass. Whatev-er their choice in menu, insects that feedon your lawn can be a nuisance.

Ridding your landscape of unwantedbugs is possible. However, first you haveto identify what insects are feasting aroundyour home. Only then can you take thesteps to tackle these bug problems.

Sod web worms: The insects are some-times called sod web moths because theyflutter up when disturbed. The adults flyand lay eggs in the grass. The caterpillarsthat emerge feast on the lawn — eatingjust about anything in their paths. Properirrigation and fertilization helps keep thesebugs at bay because a stressed, poorlycared-for lawn is most susceptible.

Chinch bugs: These small, ladybug-sized munchers suck the juices out of lawnblades. The larval form of the insect doesthe most damage between April and May,after they hatch. Planting resistant grassesis one of the best ways to combat these in-sects.

Billbugs: These insects love Kentucky

Bluegrass varieties of lawn. The larvae re-semble small grains of rice and feed on thebase of the grass blades, right above theroots. Billbugs overwinter as adults inpiles of fallen leaves. To prevent infesta-tion, clear leaves from the propertypromptly.

Grubs: Grubs are the larval form ofmany different beetles, such as Japanesebeetles. They feed on the roots and stemsof the lawn. The trouble with grubs is theyoften attract moles to the lawn becausemoles feed on grubs. Moles will burrowthrough the soil and cause their own de-struction. Grubs allowed to mature willform into bugs that do their own destruc-tion to plant life as adults. Applying a bac-teria called Milky Spore can kill grubs.

Cutworms: These small, brown cater-pillars are the larvae of night-flying brownor grayish moths. Cutworms occasionallyinfest lawns. They feed on the leaves or cutoff the grass near the soil and may do se-vere damage to seedlings of Bermudagrass, Bentgrass and Ryegrass. These bugsgenerally will not decimate a lawn unlessit is a very large infestation.

Mole crickets: These crickets hide outin burrows during the day and feed at nighton organic material, including grass. Likefire ants, it is generally impossible to irrad-icate these bugs. They simply can be man-aged.

Recognize and treatinsect lawn foes


By Nathan Winter,University of Minnesota ExtensionMcLeod and Meeker Counties

Spring is, or should be, right aroundthe corner any day. Area farmersand homeowners are always look-

ing forward to getting outdoors to enjoythe weather and get their spring workdone. Often, people ask me about plantinggrass for their lawns.

The old standby is Kentucky bluegrass,and it is our primary lawn grass for goodreason. Kentucky bluegrass lawns do ex-ceptionally well in Minnesota by greeningup in the spring and lasting well into thefall. To ensure a good lawn this year, it is agood idea to use lawn mixes that have ahigh percentage of Kentucky bluegrass.Kentucky bluegrass along with lower per-centages of perennial ryegrass and fescuespecies will provide the base for a verygood lawn.

One of the common questions is whenshould we pull the mulch off of our peren-nial plants? The answer to that question isthe old standby, it depends. We know frompast years that our average spring frost-free date for south central Minnesota is be-tween May 8-14 for there only being a 10percent chance for temperatures of 32 de-grees F or less on or after these dates. So,anything before May 8-14 will increase thelikelihood of a killing spring frost and afterthat date would lessen the likelihood ofproblems.

Taking this information into considera-tion, it is also important to look at temper-ature swings. Typically, once we get intowarmer weather it is more likely that we

will stay over that 32 degrees F, but that isnot always the case.

Other factors include where those plantsare in your ecosystem. If the perennialplants are near the house, they are morelikely to handle the colder temperaturesthan if they are out in a lower area in theyard. Download the following PDF file forthe spring frost-free dates from the DNR-State Climatology Office at: http://climate.umn.edu/pdf/frost_dates/spring_frost_free_dates.pdf

The other thing to consider is weighingout the health of the plants under themulch. If they are yellowing, they areprobably in need of sun and oxygen. Youmay need to remove the mulch carefullyfrom the plants and then put back on if theweather outlook turns colder than 32 de-grees F. Right now it appears that we areexperiencing a colder temperature cyclethan normal years so just do not get toohasty removing mulches over the perenni-als.

On lawns, be sure to stay off of the lawnuntil it is firm. Walking and driving onlawns will create compaction issues whilethey are soggy and wet. Walking and driv-ing not only creates issues with the soils,but it also creates problems with lawnhealth because you are walking on tendercrowns that are not strong this time ofyear.

Finally, do not rake lawns until the lawnhas firmed up and there is some springgrowth. Raking now will only set yourlawn back, even though it would seem tomake sense to rake out the dead lawn anddebris this time of year.

Is spring reallyhere? A few tips

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University of Minnesota Extension

An educational program presentedby the Renville County MasterGardeners will be held on Satur-

day, April 24, at St. Paul’s LutheranChurch in Hector. The event will beginwith a brunch at 9 a.m. and conclude atnoon. There will be an admission fee to at-tend.

Topics to be presented by Master Gar-deners include Tree Care by DaveSchwartz, who will discuss recommendedshade trees and apple trees with emphasison pruning your trees and shrubs at theright time of year with the correct equip-ment. Marilyn Ginsburg will share infor-mation on different lily varieties availableincluding spectacular hybrids now on themarket. Joy Clobes has won numerousawards at the county and state levels withher gladiola arrangements, and she willcreate an arrangement that day. You couldbe the lucky winner of her creation! Dur-ing the morning a silent auction will beconducted.

For more information and to pre-registerby the April 15 deadline, call the Universi-ty of Minnesota Extension, RenvilleCounty at (320) 523-3713 or (800) 450-2522.

Download the PDF flyer at:http://www.extension.umn.edu/county/Renville/news/SpringReadySetGoApril2410.pdf

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Rising costs at the supermarket andworries about unhealthy pesti-cides or preservatives on foods

has led many people to start a vegetablegarden at home.

Growing vegetables is easier than onewould think. Plus, you do not need an ex-pansive plot of land to grow a garden.Many popular varieties can be grown rightin containers or in compact spaces.

Perhaps you are wondering what vegeta-bles are the easiest to grow if this is yourfirst attempt at a food-based garden. Thereare several to try.

1. Tomatoes: While commonly consid-ered vegetables, tomatoes are actuallyfruits. But tomatoes can be an integral partof a vegetable garden. Tomatoes are highin lycopene and other antioxidants. Thereare also myriad varieties to tempt yourpalate. Tomatoes can be planted after thesoil has thawed and there is no otherchance for frost. They will require plentyof sunlight. Fruit will be available to har-vest toward the latter part of the summer.

2. Zucchini: Zucchini are an Italiansquash variety that appear similar to a cu-cumber. They can be green or yellow incoloring. This vegetable is full of potassi-um, folate and manganese, making it agreat addition to your menu. Zucchini takeabout a month to mature and be ready to

harvest. They grow on vines and producelarge flowers before bearing fruit.

3. Beets: Root vegetables like beets andradishes work well in the garden as well.The bright purple color of beets indicatesthey are full of many essential vitaminsand minerals. Toss beets in salads or usethem in the traditional soup, borscht.

4. Carrots: Another subterranean-grow-ing veggie, carrots require moist soil asthey germinate, but as the plants matureneed less water. Carrots can be enjoyed ina number of ways and are a staple of cook-ing year-round.

5. Peas: Peas grow inside the pods oflegumes. These plants like moist soil thatdrains well. Water frequently but makesure the soil does not become flooded ifyou want peas to flourish.

6. Peppers: Peppers come in so manyvarieties it is easy to find ones that appealto your taste in cooking. Generally peppersthrive in soil high in magnesium. Usingcompost and Epsom salt in the soil canhelp achieve the environment peppers de-sire.

7. Lettuce: Lettuce is another staple andthe basis for many salad dishes. Lettucealso tops sandwiches and can be filled andwrapped for other recipe ideas. Seedsshould be planted between 8 and 16 inchesapart. Water in the morning instead of atnight to prevent disease from developing.

Seven easiest veggiesto grow in your garden


Acup of coffee enjoyed in the gar-den can make for a relaxingmorning. However, that java can

also be a pick-me-up for your landscape.Coffee and tea byproducts can be used

in and around the garden to act as a slow-release fertilizer and a maincomponent of compost.

Like leaves left todecompose in thegarden, coffeegrounds whendispersedthinly in thesoil, can bean amend-ment and addnutrientsback into theground.

Considerthese uses forgrounds.

• Add tocompost piles(filters and all)along with tea bags tomake an all-natural, rich source of energyfor plants.

• Dilute with water to make a fast-actingfertilizer.

• Use in soil for houseplants or in veg-etable beds.

• Some people believe that coffeegrounds can help repel pests, such as snailsand slugs.

• If your garden needs more nitrogen,definitely turn to coffee. Nitrogen is essen-tial for plant leaf development.

• Plants that thrive inacidic soil, such as

pines, evergreens,blueberries, rasp-

berries, roses,azaleas, gar-denias,ferns, rhodo-dendrons,lily-of-the-valley, andevenmarigolds,can benefitfrom coffeegroundswhich

slightly lowerthe pH of thesoil.

• Feed thecoffee grounds to garden worms. It seemsthey love to consume them. Worm excre-ment in the garden is beneficial, as is theaeration provided by tunnelling worms.

Grounds in your gardenact as good fertilizer

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