Welcome

Sharing Operational ExcellenceScottish Textile & Leather Association

Our Twitter hashtag for the day is – #STLAmanufacturers

Welcome

David BreckenridgeChief Executive, Scottish Textile & Leather Association

Lynn WilsonZero Waste Scotland

BUSINESS IMPROVEMENT PROJECT:Reduce the Number of Small Dyeings

Gemma Gibson,Supply Chain ManagerRobert Noble and Replin Fabrics

CONTENTS

1. Introduction and Background2. The Business Improvement Project 3. Research4. Project Aims, How to Achieve These and Progress5. Implementation: The Story So Far6. The Next Stage7. Conclusion

1. Introduction and Background

2. The Business Improvement Project

What is a small package dyeing?< 30kgs

Two methods of dyeing:1) Package Dyeing2) Fibre (Top) Dyeing

2. The Business Improvement Project (continued…)

Three means of reducing the number of small package dyeings:

1. Increase the size of the dyeing2. Identify runners, repeaters and strangers and dye for stock3. Use current stock more effectively

3. Research• Forcefield Analysis

• Supplier Questionnaire- 8 questions- Face to face

• Quantitative Research

Forces for Change Forces Against Change

Customers require quick turnaround on orders Suppliers fearful of changeFewer purchase orders to raise and manage Complete change in purchasing culture

Fewer submits to analyse Time constraintsFewer goods inbound inspections Data - needs to be easy to understandBetter price/kg for larger dyeings Lack of detailed sales forecasting

Improved relationship with package dyerNo cost incurred

Personal development opportunities

Reduce the number of small package dyeings carried out by

Moorbrook Textiles (Robert Noble and Replin)

3. Research (continued…)Highlights:

1 October 2012 to 2 September 2013719 small dyeings (less than 30kgs) = 10,047.75kgs

22/1 NM SLN B5482 – dyed 6 times – once per month March-July 2013

13.4/1 NM WLN H5211 – dyed 10 times – 3 times in December 2012

13.4/1 NM WLN V2951 – dyed 8 times, twice in February 2013

4. Project Aims and How to Achieve Them

8 aims:1. Create data which is easy to generate and use2. Improve package dyer delivery performance (OTIF)3. Reduce customer lead times4. Utilise dyers more effectively5. Reduce number of submits to be analysed6. Reduce the number of inbound deliveries to be assessed7. Save time by reducing the number of purchase orders8. Reduce the purchase price/kg

5. Implementation: The Story So Far

Implemented August 2013

Update on current position (February 2014)Direct comparison of receipts (2 October 2013 – 21 February 2014 vs 2 October 2012 – 21 February

2013)

Number of small dyeings reduced by 56 purchase order lines and 506.48kgs

2012/2013 372 purchase order lines = 4,597.28kgs

2013/2014 316 purchase order lines = 4,090.80kgs

Measuring progress

6. The Next Stage

Continuation of the project

Other related projects:Top Dyeing vs Package DyeingYarn Stock Reduction ProjectProcess Redesign – Inventory and Sales Execution

7. Conclusion and Questions

Improving Productivity Through Alternative Ways of Thinking

David WoodhouseAlex Begg & Co.

Traditional Production – Niche Market

ALEX BEGG & Co.

David Woodhouse - Production Director

…the world’s finest cashmere scarf

…a radical rethink

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Weaving Efficiency - Before and After Modification

Individual Pieces

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First-line Manager’s Training Programme

Improving Productivity Through Alternative Ways of Thinking - Offline Preparation of Warp Beams

Mike Cass

Assistant Weaving Manager - Alex Begg & Co.

Investment in the latest warping technology

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Investment in the latest weaving technology

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Mik

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A description of the terminology used in this presentation.

Warping Is the creation of a series of yarns (ends) laid out on the warp mill, and is kept in the right order by a lease band. The warp runs the required length of the cloth in loom

A gear Is a number of shafts that the warp is drawn through,

the gear controls the type of weave in the loom, required by the design team/customer

Knotting Is two complete warps, set up on a frame and knotted

together using a knotting machine

Brief explanation of knotting Ends being knotted by the

knotting machine Two warps, dressed and clamped in knotting frame

Mik

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Objectives • To improve productivity by reducing loom downtime

• Transferring the downtime from the weaving department to the preparation area (Warping Department)

• To plan in lead time for preparation in warping

• To facilitate the above by training people to be multi- skilled.

• To cut down on the downtime associated with gear changes in weaving.

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Pre-project Analysis

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Pre-project Loom Downtime Over 12 Weeks

Knotting in loom

Weeks

HRS

• Data was collected over a 12 week period

• 74 Gear changes

• 150 Hours downtime for knotting alone

• Over 48 weeks = 600 hours downtime M

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Gear ChangesWeaving Downtime

Collecting and quantifying data from gear change knotting

Mill Visit: Comparisons between Lovat Mill and Begg & Co.

Lovat Mill Begg & Co.

Mik

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Setup after Lovat Mill Visit

The stages of lifting gears into loom

• The gear is lifted into loom and connected to the under motion

• The warp beam is then lifted into loom

• The knotter then comes along and knots the warp and gear together

• Once this is complete the loom technician can then pull through and setup the loom to the reed width

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Investment in a knotting station

•Buying a purpose built station supplied by Groz Beckert.

Mobile knotting station

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Multi-skilling and building a team

• Drawer/Knotter:• Responsible for tying the gear and warp

together, off line

• Loomer/Assistant Tuner:• Responsible for lifting gears in & out of the loom

• Two new knotters:

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Benefits • Improved efficiencies in weaving

• Increased productivity within the preparation area (warping and drawing)

• A multi-skilled and flexible workforce

• Improvements in the planning process Mik

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Project Improvements

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Effect of Maximising Preparation Out of Loom

Knotting in loom Pre-preparing out of loom Knotting gears out of loom

Weeks

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Annual Benefits• This initiative has delivered savings of 60 hours loom time weekly –

approximately 3,000 annually

• This equates to 21,600,300 picks

• Typically around 10% of the company’s loom output

Mik

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Questions

Innovation and Sustainable Manufacturing James Lang

Director, Scottish Leather Group Limited

Managing SeasonalityHawick Knitwear

Ian Mcleod

Why was Flexible Working necessary

• Satisfy customer demand in peak season without paying expensive overtime rates.

• Keep people gainfully employed in low season.

• Ensure customer orders are delivered on time.

• Ensure employees maintain stable earnings through the year.

Sales By Month

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Units Per Week Required

Capacity on Normal Hours

Average Weekly Sales Load by Month

Sales by Season• Autumn Season – 165,000 units

• Spring Season – 100,000 units

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Spring Autumn

Sales

Capacity

Main Obstacles• Employee Buy in

Contractually must work a 44 hour week if required. Working extra in the Summer. Missing out on lucrative overtime payments.

• Keeping it Simple It needed to work for Employee’s and the Company. Needed flexible approach.

Solution for Hawick Knitwear• Worked with the unions who did recognise the problems faced by the business.

• Came up with a flexible working agreement which we have operated for around 15 years.

• Key Principles of Agreement Employees work an extra up to 5 hours per week for a maximum of 20 weeks

during peak periods. This money is not paid out but banked at time and a quarter (also benefits

cash flow). During low period we can reduce capacity by up to 10 hours per week. Employees draw on previously banked hours so they still get a full wage even

if only working 29 hours. Different sections can have different working patterns at the same time. We advise employees of working patterns on the Monday of the pre-ceeding

week.

Outcomes• Good agreement that has benefitted business.

• Minor tweaks implemented but generally still same agreement.

• Allows us to sell more production for our peak August/September delivery period.

• Less Production required for quieter October-March period.

• Keeps employee earnings stable throughout the year.

Programme Area Manager- Innovation

Textiles and the Circular Economy

Maurice Golden

Zero Waste Scotland

Overall aim: • Prevent Waste, • Increase Resource

Efficiency, • Enable a shift towards a

more circular economy.

Circular Economy Work Programme

• Embedding thinking, language and narrative in all engagement.

• Developing CE solutions and gather evidence.– Design, manufacture, selling, reuse– In partnership with academia / research

organisations• Stimulating CE business opportunities.

– Making business case– Piloting new opportunities

Summary

• How do we embed Circular Economy thinking into the Textile Sector?

• Where are the biggest wins?

• What ideas or initiatives can be actioned now?

• Is market intervention is required?

Terminology

• Circular Economy• Cradle to Cradle• Closed Loop

What’s the difference?

Recycle/End of Life Up Cycle Closed Loop

Scottish Clothing/Textiles

• Heritage

• Design

• Craft

• Quality

Examples of closed loop – Interior textiles

Camira Textiles

Examples of closed loop – Apparel

Patagonia/Teijin Eco Circle™

Disassembly Strategy

Refinity - raincoat

Image - Refinity©

Examples of waste elimination at design stage

Image Timo Risseman©

Innovation in Luxury Textiles Waste

Case Study

Image courtesy TRW©

Image courtesy TRW©

Image courtesy TRW©

Image courtesy TRW©

How can ZWS help?

• Recycling Innovation Fund

• Scottish Recycling Fund

• RETrieve Scotland

• Capital Grant Fund for Priority Resource Streams

Thank you for listening.

For more information contact:

lynn.wilson@zerowastescotland.org.uk

Modern Apprenticeships

Willie WoodGroup HR Director

Where were we before MA’s?Elgin (Wovens)

• High skilled roles

• Shrinking pool of recruits

• Geographic isolation

• Good documentation of job roles but little structure for training

• Use of in-house Skill Audits to assess trainee progress – informal with little ‘weight’

Hawick (Knitwear)

• High skilled roles

• Other knitwear companies competing in same pool

• Circle of resource

• Lack of new blood to the industry/company

• Low level of structured training

• Lack of training skills (Trainers)

Why did we embark on this journey?Strengths

• Highly skilled Managers/Supervisors

• Large workforce offers flexibility

• Can offer career opportunities for employee progression

• Leadership vision

• Previous experience to learn from

• Internal support from HR Dept

Weaknesses

• Lack of structured training

• Lack of training skills

• Large workforce – lots of job roles within mill – complex

• BUSY!!! No time to train new recruits

Why did we embark on this journey?Opportunities

• Political will to support apprenticeships

• Partnership to develop project – Glasgow Clyde College (Cardonald)/STAG

• Utilize existing skills in workforce

• Develop relevant training to meet specific company needs

• Improve product quality

• Improve productivity

• Offer Nationally accredited qualifications

• Retain staff and skills

• Improve employee satisfaction

• Structure/systems for employee reviews – identify skill gaps and acknowledge success

• Succession planning

• Raise profile of the industry

• Attract high calibre applicants

What were the key steps?

• Partnership for development of infrastructure for Training and Accreditation – Glasgow Clyde College/STAG

• Initial assessment of Department

• Identify Job roles and skill levels

• Identify potential Trainers & Assessors

• Preparation of Assessment Materials for SVQ Qualifications

• Develop Training Materials

• Provide training for Trainers & Assessors

• Provide support to Trainers/Assessors to plan / implement / monitor & review

What challenges did we overcome?Threats/Difficulties• Previous negative experience of

SVQ’s to overcome

• Resistance of staff to take more responsibility

• Potential negative impact on production in short term (staff involved in development and training)

• Lack of time for training

Response• Offer new approach to assessment

process

• Invest time to explain & reassure staff & provide experienced support

• Support Trainers by developing Training Manuals to assist both trainer & trainee

• Invest in developing structure and resources, but streamlining assessment process to minimise impact

• Develop structured training that enables supervisors/trainers to make training routine and time efficient

What, in retrospect, would we do differently? (and now are!)

Elgin (Wovens)• Realistic expectations of scale and

complexity of the task

• Staged roll-out

• Don’t overwhelm new Assessors with too many Candidates

• Careful recruitment of Assessors - consideration of broader skills required – lower level Management/Supervisors with more technical skills may need additional support (written/communication/IT)

Hawick (Knitwear)• Set aside scheduled, regular times

for MA

• Take yourself totally away from shop floor to avoid interruptions

• Appreciate time required and improve time management

What are the outcomes within Johnstons and Industry?ELGIN (Wovens)

PHASE 1 – 2012-2013

• One Department

• 5 Trainer/Assessors

• 22 Level 2 MA’s completed in Weaving

HAWICK (Knitwear)

PHASE 1 – 2012-2013

• 2 Trainer/Assessors

• 6 Level 2 MA’s completed

What are the outcomes within Johnstons and Industry?ELGIN (Wovens) HAWICK (Knitted)

PHASE 1I – 2014-2015

• 3 new Departments (Hand Sewing, Mending, Shima Knitting)

• 6 Level 2 MA’s (5 Aged 16-19, 1 Aged 40+)

PHASE II – 2014-2015

• 3 new Departments

• 7 new Trainer/Assessors

• 3 new Trainers

• 7 Level 2 MA’s in Weaving

• 3 Level 3 MA’s in Weaving

• Estimate 21 new Level 2 MA’s this year

What are the outcomes within Johnstons and Industry?ELGIN (Wovens)

PHASE III – 2015 - 2016

• 8 new Trainer/Assessors

• 5 new Trainers

• Estimate 25+ new Level 2 enrolled

• Estimate 8 new Level 3 enrolled

HAWICK (Knitted)

PHASE III – 2015 – 2016

• Maintain momentum

• Continue improving on excellent foundations

• Develop new recruits

Training ComparisonUniversity

• 4 Year Course

• £££ Debt

• Limited income for 4 years

• Job?

Modern Apprenticeship

• On-the-job Training

• No Debt

• Monthly Wage

• Excellent Career Prospects

Willie Wood, HR Directorw.wood@johnstonscashmere.com

Innovation @ Scott & Fyfe

John Lupton

Agenda

• Background

• Features

• External Agencies

• Challenges

• Outcomes

• Lessons

• Un-traditional Scottish textile business

• 150 years of history in Tayport

• Fighting the effects Declining markets Toughening conditions Increased global competition

• Total business restructuring around Innovation Employee Ownership Cross-functional team working

The Background

The Structure

Tools

Make it visual

Innovation DEMANDS space

Graffiti beats Powerpoint

Post-Its beat shared drives and spreadsheets

External Agencies

• Scottish Enterprise

• S.M.A.S.

• CEED

• Glasgow School of Art

• Scottish Development International

• Institute of Directors

• Universities Heriot Watt, Stirling, St Andrews, Glasgow, Edinburgh, et al.

• Fife economic partnership

• Scottish Textiles and Leather

Key Performance Improvements

• Over 30% of products sold in 2013 not made 2 years ago

• Secured new distribution outlets in over 5 Countries

• Over 50 new product ideas in “innovations funnel”

• Over 20 new products under development

• Faster Product development cycles

• 38% improvement in direct labour cost per tonne

• 10% sales growth from new customers

• 33 % sales from products less than 2 years old

• 18% improvement in sales per employee (UK)

Lessons We are Still Learning

1.Restructure early … with a strong “Believe or Leave” policy

2.Celebrate your misses as well as your hits

3.Fail Fast and Fail Forward” - Fail fast, don’t give up fast

4.Opportunities that smell wrong at the start never ripen

5.Set operations to welcome trials

6.Stop believing our own press, unless the headlines are bad

7.Stop listening to, believing, and making decisions on, one persons view

8.Innovation doesnt sell itself, you still need brilliant sales management

Its not for

{Everyone}

{Ingredients}Various

{Recipe}Build your own

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