Seam Finishes

Finishing seams on your own clothing.

Today Objectives

• What is a seam?

• What is a seam allowance?

• What is a seam finish?

• How do we decide which seam finish we should use?

• What kinds of seams do our clothes have?

• Learn about nine different seam finishes

What is a seam?

Line of stitching. Hold two pieces of fabric together.Basic part of garment construction.Secured by backstitching.

What is a Seam Allowance?

Flap of fabric allowed to sew a seam.5/8” is most common for clothing patterns.

What is a Seam Finish?

Finish applied to raw edge of seam allowance.

Prevents fraying, curling and strengthens fabric.

The type of finish you choose for your seams depends on:

Type of fabricHow neat you want your seams to look DurabilityTimeType of sewing machine

Plain Seam

DescriptionOne line of sewing at 5/8” seam allowance

Suitable forDelicate items

AdvantagesVery easy to make

DisadvantagesNot as strong as other stitches

Straight Stitch Seam Finish

DescriptionThis is a plain seam with an extra line of stitching

Suitable forThe straight stitch can be used as a seam finish on firmly woven fabrics which ravel slightly.

AdvantagesIt is effective in preventing the seam allowances in knits from curling.

Disadvantages

Does not look as neat as other methods.

Pinked Edge Seam Finish

•DescriptionThe raw edges of the seam allowance are trimmed with pinking shears.

•Suitable ForMost fabrics except those very prone to raveling.

•AdvantagesFast and easy. Doesn’t add bulk to the seam allowance.

•DisadvantagesDoesn’t look as neat and clean as other methods. May not keep fabrics from fraying, especially if the finished item will be laundered. Requires special scissors to make.

Zig Zag Seam Finish

DescriptionA zigzag stitch is sewn close to or over the

raw edge of the seam allowance.

Suitable ForMost fabrics

AdvantagesEffective at keeping the raw edges of the seam allowance from fraying. Adds little bulk to the seam allowance.

DisadvantagesDoesn’t look as neat and clean as some other methods.

Clean-Finish Seam Finish

DescriptionThe edges of the seam allowance are turned under and stitched.

Suitable ForLight to medium weight fabrics.

AdvantagesMakes a neat, clean finish that won’t ravel.

DisadvantagesAdds bulk to the seam allowance, making it unsuitable for heavier fabrics.

Narrow Seam Finish Description

The narrow seam finish is often used to control the curling seam allowances of knit fabrics. It also reduces the size of the seam allowance, making it more comfortable to wear.

Suitable for

Children clothing, or any fabric that needs extra strength.

AdvantagesThe narrow seam can be used anywhere on a garment, but it is especially useful where extra strength is needed.

DisadvantagesMay add bulk to the fabric.

Flat Felled Seam Finish

DescriptionThe raw edge of the seam allowance is encased, then topstitched on the outside.

Suitable for:Most fabrics. Items that need durable seams.

AdvantagesMakes a neat, clean finish. Raw edges will not ravel because they are completely encased. Makes a very sturdy seam.

DisadvantagesRequires precise pressing and sewing. Somewhat time consuming. Makes a topstitched seam on the outside you may not want.

French Seam Finish Description

The raw edge of the seam allowance is enclosed in a secondary seam.

Suitable For Light weight fabrics and fabrics that are prone to raveling. Ideal for items that will have visible seams.

Advantages -very neat, clean finish. -Raw edges will not ravel because completely encased.

Disadvantages - Adds bulk ,making it unsuitable for medium to heavy weight fabrics. -A little complicated to make. -Somewhat time consuming.- Requires precise sewing.

Serged Seam Finish

DescriptionA line of overcast stitches is sewn over the raw edge of the seam allowance.

Suitable For Most fabrics

Advantages Produces a neat, clean finish that’s fray resistant. Adds little

bulk to the seam allowance. Quick and easy to make because the stitching and trimming can be done in one step.

DisadvantagesYou need a serger machine to make the stitch.

Take another look at your clothing. Which Seam Finishes

do you have?

Summary

What is a seam, seam allowance, seam finish?

Deciding on Seam finishType of fabricHow neat you want your seams to look DurabilityTimeType of sewing machine

Can we name the nine seam finishes?

Nine Types of Seam Finishes

1.Plain Seam

2.Straight Stitch Seam Finish

3.Pinked Edge Seam Finish

4.Zig Zag Seam Finish

5.Clean-Finish Seam Finish

6.Narrow Seam Finish

7.Flat Felled Seam Finish

8.French Seam Finish

9.Serged Seam Finish

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zrL68Nq1z4

Any Questions?