Seeds to TransplantsObjective: Tips for raising your own vegetable transplants, choosing varieties,
propagation materials needed, seeding methods, fertilization and problem
solving.
With the right supplies you can grow many of your own vegetable transplants.
This gives you the opportunity to grow favorite varieties, to have them when
you want them and to try different veggies (seeds & transplants) not available
locally.
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Imbibition - Uptake of water after the protective seed coat enzymes have
broken down increases weight of seed by 60%
Digestion and translocation – enzyme activity begins digestion of nutrients in
the endosperm and translation of those nutrients to the embryo…seed
continues to absorb water, gaining more weight.
Germination – (root primordia) occurs when the root tip breaks through the
seed coat…afterwards the shoot breaks ground.
WARNING – If the seed dries out after uptake of water has occurred
(before it produces a viable seedling) the process is halted and the seed
will die.
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1. Water container from the bottom; top watering may dislodge seedlings.
2. 3 times the diameter of the seed – as a rule; small, fine seed on the
surface.
3. Don’t seed out plants that DO NOT GROW HERE.
4. Be mindful of germination temperature and light requirements.
5. Provide air circulation and practice good hygiene.
6. Don’t use old media – use fresh sterile mix!
7. Once those seeds are up they need LIGHT immediately or all that effort will
be lost in stretched, leggy seedlings – all that effort wasted!
8. Skip a day and you’re in for trouble – seedlings may have stretched or
dried out - or – your cat may have been a little too curious!
Start with easy to grow seeds first! Watch out for those that “don’t like root
disturbance”, they need to be planted “in situ” – where they are to grow.
Easy: Tomato, Basil, Marigold, Zinnia, Coleus, Nasturtium, Cosmos
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Use the “recommended variety” list or look for varieties that fit our growing
conditions and season. Make a list of seed needs and purchase early as they
become available at your local nursery or box store in the spring – buy what
you need for the whole gardening season
Seeds packaged for the current year have the best germination potential.
Look for “end of season” discounts, they’re still a good buy.
Seeds packaged for the current year will be happy in the same conditions you
are, neither too hot or too cold; to save seeds long term, seal the packet(s)
and store in a mason or glass jar which includes moisture absorbing cell packs
or include raw rice in the jar.
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Containers – At least 2.25 to 3” deep and of proper size for good root
development if using cell packs or single container; many seeds can be started
in community pots and bumped up into larger containers for growing out.
Drainage holes are important – also allows for bottom watering.
Media – Specially formulated “seed starting” mix contains finely ground peat,
perlite, limestone (buffer pH of peat) and wetting agent to allow absorption of
water plus other amendments to support seedlings; if using potting mix, do not
use one with fertilizer added and do screen out the larger chunks.
Covers – These help retain moisture, can be clear or dark to exclude light
from surface sown seeds that need darkness to germinate.
Labels – Seed “name tags” can be purchased or recycled; record the date
seeded and veggie variety as you seed into containers; if seeding difference
varieties into a flat, label each row.
Lights – Once seedlings break the soil surface they must have 12-14 hours of
bright direct light about 2-3 inches above the container; a shop light fixture with
2 full spectrum “daylight” florescent bulbs for example. The window sill will not
do the job.
Shelving – You can purchase a “metro rack”, those metal 3 to 5 shelf units found at the box store. They are 4 feet long and just wide enough for 2 flats; the wire shelves allow shop light fixtures to be hung from the shelf above. Search the Internet for ideas.
Heat Mat & Thermostat – Heat mats (1, 2 and 4 flat sizes) are strongly suggested, they provide a way to achieve the right soil temperature for optimum seed germination; a thermostat allows “fine tuning” since the heat mat temperature range is 10-20 degrees above ambient air temperature.
Spray Bottle: You may need to mist seedlings – choose a spray bottle that delivers a “fine mist”; strong sprays will dislodge them so be careful.
Small Fan: Choose a little fan, the personal desktop kind that provides a soft gentle breeze. Once seedlings are producing their first set of true leaves give them a an hour or two of soft breeze to help strengthen stem cells and to help dry the soil surface slightly. If you have problems with dampening off this may help prevent it.
Notebook & Camera: Make notes from seeding to bumping up to transplant out through harvest, taking pictures along the way will also help. Record dates, supplies used, seeding methods, date bumped up, date planted out and method used, weather conditions, fertilization, amendments, pest & disease problems – actions taken, productivity and finally, did this veggie meet your expectations.
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This is just one example of an indoor seed starting arrangement:
Note the light fixtures hanging from the shelf wiring above and are adjustable.
Two florescent light fixtures (4, T8 or T12 bulbs) provide enough light for 4 flats
on each shelf.
A heat mat (1,2 & 4 flat size) can be placed under the trays; a thermostat
(optional) will keep soil temperature even throughout the germination process.
Timers can control the number of hours the lights are on and off.
Reflective material can be used to direct light more evenly.
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Good sanitation is key to disease prevention. Debris left in pots can harbor
disease spores.
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There are many producers of and formulas for seed starting and potting
media. Do a little research to find the one that suits your needs; the Internet
allows you to read about the product, contents, suggested uses, etc.
Perlite – Expanded volcanic rock, lightweight and provides good aeration for
potting mix
promotes root growth.
Sphagnum Peat – Acidic, sterile, hard to wet when dry…use warm water to
hydrate.
Coir – Shredded coconut fiber, a replacement for sphagnum peat.
Combination of these – depends of needs for drainage and moisture retention.
Amendments – Nutrients required for plant growth
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Note: Many seeds can be pre-moistened to speed up germination time and
produce even germination results…
Drain in strainer and transport to garden in wet cone shaped coffee filter or zip-
lock bag
or plant in containers, cell packs, etc. using same method.
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Moisten potting mix with warm water – it should be like a wrung out sponge,
not sopping wet.
Fill the container – flat, community pot, 4”, etc. until ½ inch from the top then
light tamp to evenly distribute; otherwise seeds will be at different depths in the
mix, and be sure to press a little extra mix into container corners to ensure
even distribution.
Sow seeds in spaced rows in full size flats or scatter evenly on surface at
proper distance apart; if planting in cell packs sow at least 2 seeds per cell, up
to 4 seeds in 4” pots. Thin out to the strongest seedling or bump up later.
Cover with moist mix and lightly press for good “seed-to-soil” contact.
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Lightly watering with a spray mist to settle the media.
Label should include vegetable variety and date seeded; when bumping up
also include that date.
Covering the container keeps moisture level high and media moist; remove
once most seeds have germinated.
Germination heat mat without the thermostat is 10-20 degrees above ambient
air temperature; use a thermostat for exact temperature control.
Setting the container under lights enhances germination and prevents
seedlings from stretching – adjust as seedlings grow.
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Flat has been filled with dampened fresh quality germinating or screened
sterile potting mix within 1/2 inch from the top.
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Same flat a few weeks later; each row is a different tomato variety.
Rows allow for easier bumping up into plastic coffee cups with holes in the
bottom for drainage.
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Another rule is to plant the seed 2-3 times it’s diameter unless otherwise
directed.
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Check containers daily, even twice daily – look for emergence, especially if not
placed directly under light source.
Remove covers once most seeds have germinated to allow for air flow;
reduces chance of damping off disease.
Monitor moisture in the container – should allow to slightly dry out on surface.
Water from the bottom – place 1/2 inch of warm water in the solid container
and allow it to wick up into the seedling container, then pour off the excess
once the soil surface is damp.
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Thin out crowded seedlings in community cells; otherwise they will be leggy
and grow poorly due to competition.
Snip out with a thin bladed pair of scissors – DO NOT PULL OUT.
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If you wish to recycle try “paper pots” you can make them from tomato past
cans or from wooden forms. They’re great for plants that don’t like “root
disturbance” or that will be ready to transplanting in 4-6 weeks. Just be sure to
bury the paper underground, trim if necessary – they’re better than peat
pellets. It does require time to make the pots – no shortage of “bad news”
though…
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When planting single cells or containers, plant 2-3 seeds then thin to the
healthiest one for growing out – again, snip out using scissors.
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You don’t need fertilizer when starting seeds.
Don’t use potting soil that has fertilizer added for seed starting – tender roots
may be burned.
Seedlings will need supplemental fertilization usually at the bump up stage and
afterward.
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Consult references to identify problems – observe and make note of
problems/solutions.
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Transplants need a “hardening off” period before planting outside – this
includes transplants you purchase!
Begin with a few hours of early morning bright filtered light with protection from
wind.
Over the next 7(+) days move the transplants into brighter light and less
protected locations.
Plant them on an overcast day (if possible) in the afternoon in damp garden
soil, providing protection as necessary
Water in with a liquid starter solution – see label instructions.
Monitor daily for the next 10 days until they become established.
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Lettuce seeds are broadcast evenly over the planting bed then racked lightly
one way then the other to spread seeds out and lightly cover them.
Lettuce needs light to germinate and can’t be covered too deeply. Another
technique is to mix lettuce (or any small seeds) with fresh play sand (not
builder’s sand) and sprinkle over the soil.
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Plant more seed than you need, thin out early to provide room for root and top
growth.
Remove seedlings without disturbing the root system of it’s neighbor.
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